Brands & types
....Comparisons: Kato, Sculpey (LS/TLS), Fimo,
........Colored, Glow-in-the-dark)
General Info re ALL liquid clays (summary)
....Containers & applicators ...& application
....Cleaning (brushes, etc.)
....Air bubbles
....Baking, Ovens, Safety
...."Releases"
....DVD, videos & books
Inclusions & coloring liq.clays
...powders (dry)
...paints,inks (liquid)
...washes,patinas
...solid clay ....other colored inclusions
Glue (as glue, or for repair, or embedding fabric)
Finish (clear)
Strengthener + Decoupage-finish or Layers
.....(coating or layering things ...also flowers/plants, etc.)
FLAT uses
Films --not used as transfers
....basic info
...freestanding liquid clay films... inclusions... ."clings" (made on glass-tile)
.....punching ...cutouts
....marbelized-combed-dragged patterns
........made on water, glass-tile, or clay
Decals --used as transfers
CELLS
Stained glass effects (ropes of clay) +ornaments
Cloisonne, "Enameling" (stamped,carved,molds,etc.) ...metal foils & leaf
...wire +clay ropes ...other materials in cells
DIMENSIONAL uses
....Drizzling, piping
........faux "lampwork" (uncured liquid clay onto beads)
....... other (shapes cured on glass to use elsewhere...uncured on donuts/cookies...dots, etc.)
....Molds (using liq.clay in... making?)
....Cutting, mosaics
....Freestanding items
MORE USES for liquid clays
MISC ... all liquid clays
Polymer Paste
(temporary: Acrylic Mediums)

LIQUID CLAYS

NOTE:
Kato's and Fimo's versions of liquid clay came along after the 2 Liquid Sculpey versions
...therefore most of the info below will apply to any brand...

Liquid clays are basically polymer clay in liquid form (though the solid clays may have fillers and additives).
..They're being made by several manufacturers and mostly come in translucent versions --though there is one opaque version (plain LS)
..At this writing, only one of the types/brands is generally available at retail stores (Sculpey's "Translucent Liquid Sculpey"), though hopefully that will change
......(I've now seen Kato's in Joanns, may also be in Hobby Lobby... Fimo's may be available retail outside the US)
..Since LS came out first, and was the only liquid clay available, you'll often still hear all liquid clays referred to (incorrectly) as "Liquid Sculpey,"as LS, or TLS.

These liquid clays can be used in many ways!
.....Sculpey's summary & examples re some of the many uses for liquid clays
http://www.sculpey.com/sculpey201.htm

Brands & Types

NO COLOR (translucent ...clear when thin)
--Translucent Liquid Sculpey Bakable Transfer & Color Medium** (TLS) ...by Polyform/Sculpey
.............Bake and Bond ...2nd translucent liquid clay by Polyform/StudiobySculpey... same as TLS?
--Clear Kato Polyclay ...by Donna Kato & VanAken (used to be called "Kato Sauce" or KS)
--Liquid Fimo Decorating Gel ...by Eberhard Faber, maker of Fimo clays
--Castaway (Australia)
--Liquid Translucent Modelene (Australia)

COLORED (these are opaque, or at least not very translucent)
--Kato Liquid Polyclay --(all opaque?)...yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, black, white... in 2 sizes, sold by Kato Polyclay
--Colored Liquid Sculpey (CLS) --various colors
--Liquid Poly Glo --glow-in-the-dark colors...sold by Puffinalia
--Liquid Sculpey (LS) --whitish color ...by Polyform/Sculpey

COMPARISON: TLS vs.Kato
. . . (from Rocky Mt.PC Network Retreat):

...TLS is less transparent (more frosty-looking) than the Kato (and Fimo, which are very transparent)

... TLS was less rubbery than Kato (which was slightly more rubbery)

.. TLS is thicker than Kato (but thinner than LS?), which is thinner ... (so TLS was more likely to slightly smear metallic powders after application, and the Kato was slightly more likely to run or pool).

... the TLS was visibly matte, the Kato was somewhat shiny (after one coat was applied to paper and to polymer)
(so the Kato might show up more around the edges of a glued area)
.......however?.....I usually put a coat of TLS on the faces of my figures ...today I decided to mix in a little diluent to let it flow on and level off a little better but when I pulled it out of the oven I had extremly high gloss finish (which I did NOT want for faces). Dawn
...It would be great if we had the option of giving Translucent Liquid Sculpey a shiny finish whenever we wanted it (for transfers, etc., even though we wouldn't want them on faces..). Might it even work for original opaque-white LS too??

...both had good adhesion to paper and to clay
.......when used as glue for attaching metal pin backs to baked clay, the TLS was slightly stronger?--both had a slice of cane over top of the pinback with liquid under and over the pinback.
.............. My conclusion is that both have slightly different uses and strengths, and I use both now!! Sarajane

OTHER COMPARISONS and INFO on all:

all? liquid clays are clearest and strongest if baked at 300 degrees even for 5-10 minutes (or heated with a heat gun... avoiding breathing too much of the vapors though)

They have a fairly strong odor when baking/heated
......so may want to baked in garage or outdoors, ventilate, or bake in an enclosed container (then open outdoors, or let cool first)

clean up ...since liquid clays are somewhat sticky and thick, wipe off as much as you can with a tissue, etc
...then alcohol then dry your brush before using again (or use soap afterward for hands) ... or use a waterless hand cleaner with pumice
...some people don't clean brushes at all since liquid clay doesn't quickly dry out (see below in "Cleaning/brushes")

all liquid clay can be wet-sanded (though this is more difficult than with regular baked clay) and buffed, though Kato is already somewhat shiny;
.....using an additional clear finish may be helpful for a high gloss like Varathane, esp. over TLS.
(...Kato Polyclay is the most difficult to sand but you can get around this by adding some dishwashing liquid to your sanding water, or a small amount of Kodak PhotoFlo solution. Dotty)

TLS is not as self-leveling, as Kato liquid clay ... (so more difficult to use in molds and for cloisonne, but easier for drizzling or other situations where you want it to hold its shape a bit)

Fimo Gel is wonderfully clear... Shelley
...The only drawback I've run into so far is that it is very rubbery so you can't sand it. Jo
... it must be baked 20-30 min?... at 265???

I mixed them with some Pearl-ex powder which was very interesting....
...TLS seemed very dull in comparision and had lost a lot of the mica sparkle type qualities - not a lot of sheen in there, but interesting colour and no bubbles.
...Kato was much brighter and had some really nice glitzy swirls in it, but bubbled a heck of a lot with the Pearl Ex in it (...but maybe I have to be more careful with the mixing next time??).(for more on bubbling, see below in "Air Bubbles")
...Fimo looked very similar to kato. Shelley

As for consistency and feel:
....TLS's consistency is much more solid, and feels firmer
… Kato was the runniest and spread quite a bit
... Fimo Gel when squeezed out of the bottle is sort of 'stringy,' but when left, it does settle and doesn't spread as much as the Kato.
........both the Kato and Fimo have a sort of rubbery feel to them, very much like window clings (but can add Varathane for hardness).

Clear Kato Liquid Polyclay --glossy finish
(also known as: KatoPolyclay's Liquid PolyClay Clear Medium, and earlier as Kato Sauce)

Available in 2 oz and 8 oz plastic bottles
...at Prairiecraft, 2 sizes, plus nozzle containers, brushes, etc.
http://prairiecraft.com/page/DONNAKATOPOLYCLAY/CTGY/KCLM
...at polymerclayexpress http://polymerclayexpress.com/katoclay.html
...at D&J Hobby online (or search for... Liquid Polyclay Clear Medium)
http://www.djhobby.com/cgi-bin/indexpage.pl?http://www.djhobby.com/catalog/c-artsupplies/VANAKN.html
...at ClayAlley http://clayalley.com/kato.htm
...in Canada ...at Shades of Clay http://shadesofclay.com/Articles/products/OtherPolyclayProducts.html

... will cure at only 275 degrees F, but will be even clearer if baked at least 5 min at 300 (...or hit with a heat gun)

Kato liquid clay has a glossy finish, rather than the matte finish of TLS
.... thick applications of Kato Clear Medium may appear slightly milky cured at 300 degrees – to achieve maximum, glass like clarity, follow up with a heat gun. At between 320 and 340 degrees F, the medium clears completely. (If there is clay beneath the liquid clay ... use only Kato Polyclay brand as it is the only clay that will withstand the high temperature from the heat gun!) ...When the medium has achieved its maximum clarity, the surface will exhibit a high gloss, not satin sheen. Donna Kato

The Kato version of liquid clay is much clearer under all circumstances than the TLS (... and about the same or a bit less clear than Fimo Gel)
.... I tried both putting it on when (the item is) hot and when cool, and it's always clearer than TLS under the same conditions. Jeanne

Being quite a bit thinner in consistency, it levels out pretty quickly
.....so it can be worked in multiple layers by adding adding more over baked layer(s)
....it's quite a bit thinner than the TLS, and as such it leveled out creating very thin layers. I diluted the TLS with Diluent in order to have a more similar test (to LS).
....There are times that I want the thicker, not so quickly leveling though (such as when I am making liquid collages and using it to retain a design which I add glitter to). The Kato sauce was practically useless for that because the spirals would level out and totally lose the design. If I had to choose I would prefer a thicker version that I could thin down when I wanted to. tlc
...can thicken by drying out a bit though, or by adding glitter first to thicken Kato?

Once cured, Kato liquid clay is very flexible.
..........The Kato had a bit more of a rubber feel/flexibility than the TLS but I don't see that as being a disadvantage or an advantage. tlc
....I've been experimenting with the Kato Liquid Clay and have been pleasantly surprised at how differently it works compared to TLS. If doing transfers and applying in thin layers, it cures as clear as glass. I have used up to five thin layers with no cloudy or milky look. I do not know how hard it is or if it sands up or polishes up easily. So far, I have been able to put it on in such a way that no sanding or polishing is necessary. There are a lot fewer bubbles than TLS and it flows evenly. Jody
....they both appear to be approx. the same in transluscence (when I made liquid collages). tlc
....Kato Sauce can be sanded and polished to a high sheen. Vernon
...... it's hard to sand, but try adding some dishwashing liquid to your sanding water, or a small amount of Kodak PhotoFlo. Works great. Dotty
...Like LS, Kato Sauce can be used in the same fashion to transfer photocopy and magazine images, and to improve clay to clay bond, both raw to raw and cured to raw. Vernon
...I use Kato Sauce and TLS for extra strength ....along with the Pearl-ex powders and now other powdered pigments for making faux stained glass and for painting on clay---and a hundred other uses. I could not be without Kato Sauce or TLS. Jeanne
...I used it to do faux lampworked beads. You just add as much pearl-ex as you can to get it as thick as you want and then you paint that on your bead and then bake. Now THAT turned out nice! Ginger
...the new Kato Liquid Medium bakes with a shiny surface! No need to sand and buff, although it's not the same kind of shine get with sanding and buffing, but still quite good looking. Dotty

Kato liquid can have fairly strong odor when baking (like other liquid clays, but more "plastic-doll" type maybe)
......so may want to baked in garage or outdoors, ventilate, or bake in an enclosed container (then open outdoors, or let cool first)

Kato liquid clay tinted with Pinata inks is beautifully transparent and vivid
....(this inclusion seemed to bubble less? than when it was mixed with either the oil paints or the Pearlex.)
....the color won't bake true.
.....I was trying to mix the Kato liquid clay with the coloring agent inside the little vial....then I gently turned and drained til the whole inside is covered. ......the coloring/liquid clay on the inside stands up to water just fine. No sanding needed (and no puddling around the margins of canes applied to the surface.
....the pinata ink plus Kato liquid clay was the best liquid clay combination... (though I don't have any fimo gel to compare). Sarah
...Looked wonderful!!! like a mix between dichroic glass and raku!! Laura

Translucent Liquid Sculpey--clear ...(TLS, "Bakable Medium") --matte finish
and Liquid Sculpey--white (LS)

NOTE:
....Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) is the most common form of Sculpey-Polyform's liquid clay now in use... it's fairly clear after baking
....... (most of the info below is about this clear version)
....Liquid Sculpey (LS) is their original version of liquid polymer clay, which becomes white and opaque after baking.
...... however, you'll notice that TLS is now often referred to simply as LS or Liquid Sculpey (which is technically incorrect, so don't be confused)
..........also, some people still refer to all liquid clays as "Liquid Sculpey" becasue it was the first brand of liquid clay on the market
(for CLS --pre-colored liquid clays by Sculpey, as well as other pre-colored liquid clays, see below)

The small bottles of TLS available at retail stores say "Bakable Transfer and Color Medium" in large letters on the front.

Available in retail stores (small plastic bottles with nozzle)
........at Hobby Lobby it's next to the polymer clay . . . . also A.C. Moore.
....... at Michaels...it's often not with the clay though .. . .it's in the aisle or on an aisle end cap next to the Shapelet kits, multi-clay packs, large boxes of clay, eraser clay. Debbie . . . or it's in the aisle with the kids crafts & Faster Plaster ! dgthreedgthree
.......at one store, I found it with the "Makin's" Clay/Cutters/Texture Sheets

Available by mail order (see also Supply Sources near top of page)
.......It comes in a 16 oz. can (or also a wide-mouthed bottle of 8 oz.?). . . .looks exactly like Elmer's glue in color and viscosity.
Polymer Clay Express http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/list.html
ClayAlley http://clayalley.com/premo.htm
Clay Factory of Escondido, http://www.clayfactory.net/sculpey/LS.htm
....maybe other places as well
....The new 2 oz trial size has arrived at Polymer Clay Express, (also at http://www.sculpey.com/fset_products.htm) and probably at the other online suppliers, as well) that one is $4.99 which seems like a lot if you're looking at the full pint costing $14.99. ...But, it's a great price if you just want to try it and see if it's something that agrees with you. Zig
Rings and Things http://ringsnthings.com/ carries it now.. but in 2oz bottles. -- JAN
........ the (2 oz) bottle was leaking - the seal had been broken. I had previously ordered a small bottle from PCE, and my order just arrived...and THIS little TLS bottle leaks, too...Sunny
.........How odd! My 2 oz bottle is broken, too!! I have to make sure it is stored upright, I've already made a mess with it once! Ruth
........My bottle was fine when I bought it, but I accidently knocked it off my clay table and broke the whole top off. I needed the fine control that the original top had for many projects, so I dumped a bottle of Elmer's glue into another bottle, washed it out good, made sure it was really dry, then transfered my TLS to that. The top isn't quite as fine, but it was a much better solution for me, plus I once again had a closable top. PC
PolymerClayPit (England) http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/acatalog/Product_Index_Liquid_Clay_112.html

TLS comes in the pint too, and will soon come in a half-gallon, I think... Howard at The Clay Factory mentioned larger sizes the last time we were down there. Don't know about a gallon size though. Dotty

I just bought a bottle of TLS but it reads on the bottle, "Bakable transfer & color medium." I also have another bottle of older TLS by Sculpey but the bottle looks entirely different... Joy
....Same stuff, different label....tThe only difference between the new and the older stuff is that they made the new stuff thinner (and changed the name/packaging) . It works better for doing layers and having them come out smoother. For other techniques, it might be on the thin side though. Jody

I keep 3 different consistencies of TLS on my worktable
.....thin (pours right out, upended bottle would empty itself and leave little on the walls of the bottle --for coatings, like faux enamel),
.....medium (like honey - upended bottle would empty very slowly but a coating would be left inside the bottle --for ordinary gluing jobs),
.....thick (molasses-in-January - a toothpick will stand upright in this stuff --e.g., for "snow" when mixed with paint to a marshmallow creme). Elizabeth

You will also need the Sculpey Diluent-ClaySoftener to thin the TLS or LS in order for them to work really well in some applications
........(for much more on Diluent-ClaySoftener, see Glues & Diluent)
... the newer TLS out now is thinner than it used to be because t hey have to be able to hand pour it into the 2oz. bottles
.....depending upon how much pigment or powder you add to color it, a drop or two may still be necessary. I *think* I remember (Nan) saying to make it the consistency of heavy cream (just for the cling technique??). Jody
... I did some experiments with mineral oil and Sculpey diluent as thinners, and the items which I used the mineral oil in cracked easier and had more crackling when mixed with TLS and baked..... Also the mineral oil left the TLS milkier or whiter (and less translucent) than the Sculpey diluent had. Jeanne

TLS will thicken over time & I think some batches are already thicker than others as they come from the factory.
...If you have a large jar, it's probably best to pour some into a smaller bottle or mix-n-stor container to dip your brush into. That way you're not allowing dust and stuff to fall into the large jar and the stuff stays clean. Eliz.

It usually cures just fine on vertical surfaces - just don't want to put it on too thickly. . . If you should need to use thinned LS on a vertical surface, or if you're running into problems with drips, you can hold the piece so that the LS is roughly horizontal and hit it with your heat gun or embossing gun long enough to set the surface. The piece will need a full curing when you're finished with it. Elizabeth
.......(I have always used a lot of diluent with TLS so I could get it the thickness or thinness I wanted.) Jeanne

if I need to cure TLS and I worry about it moving or pooling, I'll often apply it to a hot piece of clay to begin with... and/or use my embossing heat gun to heat the TLS. It will set it just enough to get it in the oven, and usually I won't have the problem of it running. Tess

I have found that a piece needs to cool completely before using TLS. Almost every time that I have attempted to put on TLS while item is warm it has clouded up.
. . .( The Kato liquid clay is much clearer under all circumstances that I have seen. I tried both putting it on when hot and when cool and it is clearer than TLS under the same conditions. Jeanne)

Keeping your layers of TLS thin will help keep it more translucent. Jody
....TLS does mute the colors a little (especially with more layers). Jody
.....TLS will appear more cloudy over a darker colorclay... Jody
....(However, after baking TLS at 300 degrees) the finished product (if thin) should be shiny and see through like plastic wrap). Deidre

FINISH: when it comes out of the oven, the TLS will have a matte finish.
...If you want a sheen or gloss instead of matte, you can sand and buff it
..............sanding: liquid clay is very hard when baked correctly, so start with a 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then use a 400 and then a 600. Once it's sanded either buff it on a buffing wheel or use a glaze. Dotty
...or wipe it down with rubbing alcohol then put a clear liquid finish on it to bring back the gloss and color (Flecto's Diamond Varathane, or several coats of Future Floor Finish, Fimo mineral lacquer, etc.).

TLS & LS are harder than regular clay. I was doing some transfers with a thin coat of TLS and discovered I could sand it a lot more than I thought I could. I could also press fairly hard with my dremel and get a high shine instead of eaten clay!
.... One thing I found out last night--I've you are using TLS, you can use considerably more pressure than on LS without leaving buff marks. It seems to eat sandpaper faster, too.
The LS is tougher (than regular clay) because the stuff they need to add to make it a clay (dough) makes it softer.
...TLS is very hard, difficult to sand. In fact, I actually did some damage to my sculpture trying to deal with this. Katherine

TLS also has the advantage of being able to take more heat without discoloring.

I have had something a bit odd happen, though. After the TLS piece has been cooked, there are slightly raised areas where the toner is (on my transfer). I'm cooking the TSL at about 300 F. Some sanding takes care of it. The nice thing is that even thought there is a very thin layer, it's fairly difficult to sand through, and you can apply more pressure when buffing . Anyone else experience this "raising" effect?
...it sounds as if the TLS wasn't cured completely. It seems to need a bit higher heat than regular translucent or the opaque clays. That makes it difficult though if you have some of the latter on the outside of your piece that's not covered by the TLS. Dotty

… when i played with it using it unthinned, it was like looking thru a bubbled bathroom glass window!!! i played with it making window clings (see below). do you know what those "sticky hands" feel like? the yucky strings of gooey rubber kids can flick out and grip paper with? it kinda feels like that only not sticky. it's very soft and pliable, yet sturdy. does it run? YES!! like viscous water!! Sunni

I still use the original, white & opaque "LS" all the time, even though it can't do transparent
...it's thicker than the TLS... and also very sticky
...It's great for backfilling... patinas... and transfers (when an opaque background is wanted).
...the reason I tell people to buy the transparent if they are only going to get one, is that you can make the transparent opaque if you want to, but you can't make the opaque transparent. Jody B.

Liquid Fimo Decorating Gel

Liquid FIMO® Decorating Gel (Deko Gel, Deco Gel) (new Mar 03) ... clear only... shiney finish
...(similar to Kato's liquid clay in characteristics)
...available at Joannes at least, and online

...its very clear
....it stays very flexible ...and very rubbery (can add Varathane over if need more "hardness" or less rubbery feel?)
....no odor!???
...may yellow over time? (Jeanne R.)

...hardens at 265°F in 15-20 minutes
......If you bake the Fimo Gel at atoo low temp (like you might with a coat of Future or Flecto), it will turn completely white and sticky and never dry! Reg (other liquid clays will do this too)

The Fimo Gel is wonderfully clear....did a test on a tile just with tls, kato sauce and fimo gel...there was just no comparison. Shelley
...The only drawback I've run into so far is that it is very rubbery so you can't sand it. Jo
... it must be baked 20-30 min?... at 265???

I use Varathane on Fimo Gel all the time with no problem. JillzQ ......(should "harden" the rubbery feel too)

SUPPLIERS (no suppliers in retail shops, as far as I know)
http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/fimo.html ($5.00 for 50 ml =1.7 oz --very small bottle! --no larger ones?)
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/fimo/liquidfimogel.html
http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/acatalog/Product_Index_Liquid_Clay_112.html (England)

http://www.amaco.com/jsps/amacohome.jsp (then click on Arts & Crafts, then on FimoSoft...bottom of page ... or enter this exact phrase and spelling to search: Liquid FIMO® Decorating Gel
(MisterArt carries it too, but must accept cookies to view their site)
(England) We do have the Fimo Gel in stock. http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/
.....we have not actually tried it out yet, but it does look as though it's more transparent than the TLS. Info. on the 50ml. bottle says it is oven-hardening, exceptionally transparent, and extra flexible. Juliette, the Polymer Clay Pit (England)

Eberhard Faber has a brochure? that comes with? an order? http://www.sunshinecrafts.com/images/LIT127.jpg

(for much more info on Fimo's liquid clay, please see above in "Other Comparisons" )

Pre-Colored (metallics)

Liquid Sculpey & others

Colored Liquid Sculpey (CLS) ... made by Polyform
PolymerClayExpress is now carrying all the colors of CLS: gold, silver, copper, pearl (metallics), and black (non-metallic?) ...in 2 oz. & 8 oz. bottles, as well as in kits
http://polymerclayexpress.com/premo.html (middle and bottom of page...http://polymerclayexpress.com/images/cls01.jpg)
... kit containing 8 oz bottles of only the gold, silver & black Liquid Sculpey.... Clay Factory of Escondido

Krafty's Liquid Amber (2 versions, light and dark) ---prob. liquid clay colored to simulate translucent amber
http://www.kraftylady.com.au/artkla.htm

Can also use these for transfering, creating colored sheets for mosaics, texturing and more (see techniques in Ann and Karen Mitchell's book on liquid clays).

These colored liquid clays can also be mixed with other colors of oil paint, metallic powders, alcohol-based inks, etc., to get even more colors and effects.

The black CLS is very opaque, and the others probably are also since they seem to have mica inclusions in them?

The Colored Liquid Sculpey is gorgeous - the gold and silver match the Premo gold and silver (in color) and they are both very sparkly...though the silver CLS is more sparkly and clear than silver Premo. ...Not a hint of glitter in them - it's all mica-looking sparkle. . . The black is very dense (and opaque). The stuff is very matte when it's cured, so I glazed part of each swatch with Flecto just so I could see what that did. Elizabeth

Sculpey now has a gold liquid translucent? I haven't used it yet, but it looks great in the bottle. I know that the Clay Factory is carrying it and I'm pretty sure the other sites that do mail-order clay will have it also. Dotty
Sculpey Golden translucent ...Yup, that was Marie's idea. A perfect premixed match for Premo gold. She also mentioned black. Do they have that available yet? Jody
I know that Marie had mentioned black way back but hadn't seen it used or for sale then. But when I was at the Clay Factory about a week ago Howard showed me a bottle of it. (one of the small type bottles like he had at Ravensdale) So I assume that it is available. I'm going to order some this week. I don't know if it comes in the large cans or not. As for black, now that's a new one to me. Wouldn't that be great?! Perfect for back-filling, etc. Dotty

Elizabeth's use of of CLS on her rectangular "leaf" vase, and also leaves-around-glass-votive piece:
... for 4-leaf vase, 3 coats of black on the outside of the vase... 3 coats of gold inside ... & dimensional veins made with a TLS plus Rhine Gold metallic powder
...for votive: baked, then coated with 3 coats of 3 different liquid clay colors (silver and gold CLS + Aztec Bronze PearlEx mixed into TLS)... veins as above
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1416609&uid=488109

I'm looking forward to being able to make faux stained glass (leading) with black liquid clay without rolling those interminable little worms of black clay.
...I'll bet the black CLS mixed with the gold CLS will be a nice color for imitating the bronz-y look of some stained glass
...Oh! and I'll bet the gold sponged over the black kind of loosely will be a pretty faux Raku look. Elizabeth

I'm betting we can use that silver as the "lead" between stained glass (tinted TLS)
......oh oh, black polka dots on everything.......golden rims on vases!! syndee holt

I mixed just a wee bit of phthalo blue (oil paint) into a little bit of each (copper & the pearl)....... simply drop-dead gorgeous. Annie

PolymerClayExpress' lesson on making a votive with leaves of clay painted after baking with layers of colored liquid clays
http://polymerclayexpress.com/jun2003.html
. . . the inside of the vessel is also colored with CLS
...in fact, coating the inside of vessels is a great way to strengthen them as well as adding beautiful finishes

I didn't thin the CLS, just brushed it on and let it sit. It levels itself, which is why it's so good at covering fingerprints. . . . I haven't seen any difference in how you handle the CLS compared to the regular Liquid Sculpey - same curing times and temperatures seem to work.
- the square vases are glazed only on the outside - the gold CLS is matte and barely sparkly, which was a nice contrast to the high-gloss black, so I left it alone. Elizabeth

the Colored Liquid Sculpey colors are mostly metallic, and are created mostly with mica powders
... to simulate those, add Pearl Ex mica powder, e.g., or possibly metallic oil paints, into the liquid clay.
..........however, in order to get a strongly metallic effect with PearlEx, I find that you need to use a LOT of it though (which can get expensive when covering large areas)...then you'll need to dilute the mixture back down with Sculpey Diluent (now called "Clay Softener") to get to a workable viscosity. Elizabeth
(.....for more on coloring liquid clays yourself, see below in Inclusions )

Liquid Poly Glo

liquid clay which glows in the dark (new May 03). . . 6 colors (red, orange, green, aqua, blue, violet)...more translucent than opaque...offered by Puffinalia http://www.puffinalia.com/glow/liquid_poly_glo.html

What a cool thing to decorate a regular lampshade with. You could make loads of little flat backed Liquid Polyglo shapes etc (in a mold) and glue them on with PVA. Then when you turn out the light, they would be all charged up and glow away like crazy! I bet kids would love that! Emma

Think if we made faux lampwork with that.... i mean who has lampwork that glows in the dark?! cool!! . Lori
...Maybe do some faux cloisonne type patterns with using outlines of regular clay filled with the liquid clay? Emma

These would be fun to make transfer decals with?
....and/or clear transfer decals could be backed with glow in the dark clay (best to use black lines only though... colors probably wouldn't show up?
... they might be fun to use for making window clings too (esp. at Halloween). Diane B.

. . .I was thinkin' maybe I could make my own with glow-in-the-dark clay and TLS? . . .

Translucent Liquid Modelene & Castaway --Australia

Translucent Liquid Modelene...Modelene's version of regular liquid clay
... summary of ways to use (liquid clays) Liquid Translucent Modelene
http://www.modelene.com.au/tliquid.shtml

Castaway is also made by Modelene ...(just a thicker version of liquid clay than Translucent Liquid Modelene?)
... it's an awful pink, and is much the same as Liquid Sculpey in it's behaviour, although it's is a little thicker. Jenny

They show clay painting thickly with Castaway, after coloring with oil paints
...says on the bucket "pourable when wet" (meaning "unbaked"?)...but it's not "really" pourable --more like "spoonable"
....it's flexible when baked
... It's baked at 130 C (265 F)...same as Modelene or the other clays, and curing time is 20-30 minutes.
....go to http://www.paperplace.com.au where you may find more info.. .Jenny
How does Castaway differ from using TLS for clay painting.
...Well...Jody said she hadn't attained the same degree of success painting wise, with TLS.
Did you mix oils into the liquid, then paint, or did you put down some liquid & paint into it? I lay out blobs of Castaway on a tile just as I would put paint on a palette and put little blobs of oil paint next to the clay blobs...and mixed as I needed....then I just started laying on the paint with the palette knife onto another tile just as I would on a "canvas"....gradually building up the picture from background to foreground.
...I'm going to try using a brush next time because you get an entirely different effect. Jenny
. . . do you think re-baking would cause a problem? Your landscape has given me an idea for my boxes but it would require re-baking
... No problem at all....it takes multiple baking..

So far I've only used polymer clay molds (made from Modelene) for casting the Castaway),
... The molds don't need to flex for these little casts....I just used a little Vaseline as a release agent and lifted the fish out with the help of a needle tool once they were baked.
....says on the bucket "pourable when wet" (meaning "unbaked"?)...but it's not "really" pourable --more like "spoonable"
...The manufacturers say..."Your mold can be made from any product, even Castaway, that will withstand baking at 130 degC, but is best from flexible silicone 2 part mold material....
(see much more on using liquid clays in molds below in "Molds")
. . .I'm not sure about the chocolate molds...but I feel an experiment coming on..
... I sometimes just make sheets of colored TLS. It's just like the creepy crawlers I had as a kid. Too bad I didn't save those molds. lala

Castaway.... is used for making? molds (or just casting in molds?)
...For those fish (w,ebsite gone) I used a polymer clay mold with a light smearing of Vaseline as a release agent, but I've got some plaster molds I want to try, which should work just as well.
....The Castaway (liquid clay) is flexible once it's baked and really easy to remove from it's mold...I just used a needle tool to lift them out.
....The fascinating thing about these 'fish' or any other molded item made from this medium is that being flexible you can 'bend' them around surfaces etc if you want....so the possibilities are rather exciting! Now I guess I should try other liquid clays and see if they behave the same way..... Jenny

Other Liquids

For those who might want to try home made Liquid Lace:
....Combine 1 teaspoon cornflour (cornstarch) 2-3 teaspoons thin PVA glue (Sobo etc) 3/4 teaspoon acrylic white paint (or other color if desired) 2-3 drops water (if required). Mix to a consistency that will flow slightly after being applied, allowing it to smooth over. Dotty in CA
(see liquid lace made with liquid clay below in Drizzling > Other)

I have used the spray-on gold webbing with success on the (baked?) clay. It's mostly used by stampers and paper making people and can be found at places like Michael's. Makes a neat golden web on the surface of the clay. Dotty in CA

...see also faux vinyl, and Varathane + acrylic paint below (search)

GENERAL INFO on ALL liquid clays

NOTE: most liquid clay techniques can be used with any brand of liquid clay (even if only one brand is mentioned)
(....there are a few exceptions tho' when the clearest liq. clay is needed, or the thinnest, for example)

Polyform's lessons and explantory page on Translucent Liquid Sculpey & various techniques using liquid clay
http://www.sculpey.com/Products/products_access_tls.htm
http://www.sculpey.com/projects_tls.htm
Michaels' lessons and explanatory page on Liquid Sculpey & various techniques using liquid clay
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayArticle?articleNum=as0056
Modelene's website, with summary of ways to use (liquid clays) Liquid Trans. Modelene
http://www.modelene.com.au/tliquid.shtml
FAQ’s from Jody Bishel (the LS Queen J )
Jody’s basic LS explanation (opaque Liquid Squlpey)
http://www.sculpey.com/fset_techinfo.htm
Jody’s TLS explanation (Translucent Liquid Sculpey)
http://members.home.net/melanctha/TLSFAQpage.html
updated version? of Jody's explanation re translucent liquid clays?
http://www.theclaystore.com/pages-tutorials/polymer-clay-project-tutorials.html?action=showTut&tutID=13
Jody’s several projects using LS, enamelling, etc.
http://www0.delphi.com/polymerclay/pcc/liquidsc.html (get new add.)
Prairiecraft’s tips re the beginning of LS, etc.
http://www.prairiecraft.com/tiparc01.html
... Liquid Sculpey was originally meant to be poured into metal vacuum molds and baked, but most polyclayers use it for two purposes: (1) as "glue," to join two baked pieces of clay together, and (2) as a surface treatment, painting, washing, or stippling it on. Triche O.

summary

Liquid clays do not "dry" until heat-cured ... you must bake it after applying, that is what hardens and cures it. Tess

When liquid clays are mixed into solid clays to soften them (conditioning), the resulting clay seems to recondition faster ...and also wants to stick to itself rather than the tools.... I'm a very thorough mixer
....I also think that it buffs up easier and nicer, and I like the way the clay handles then.
....doesn't seem to change the color of other clay much at all (I've even put some in black Fimo and the change was barely noticeable.).

Liquid clays are hard to sand (but it's often not used in ways that need sanding)
....I have used a mini sanding drum (on my Dremel) for LS with success, as long as I don't try to go too fast (that tends to clog the grit). Jody B.
...I usually prefer to cut into LS with a sharp tool like an exacto knife or a linoleum cutter. ...depends on what you are trying to do. Jody B.

When I have used TLS over sculpted pieces, the trick of waiting at least an hour to allow drips to happen seems to really help identify problems...
....Also I have found the occasional noticeable drip easier to remove with a small-bladed craft knife than to sand off.

COLORING ... any of the liquid clays can be colored completely by adding tiny bits of:
.....oil paint or oil pastels... metallic or other powders (chalks, etc) ... alcohol-based inks... bit of colored clay (smooshed into it)... spices?
..... dry pigment powders
(some materials may intensify and darken during baking)
......in general, don't use acrylic paints (....a little bit may work okay tho'... and tube acrylics are thicker & may have less moisture so work better)
....see more below in "Inclusions"

You can mix your own white original "LS" from regular clear liquid clays by adding Titanium Oxide white oil paint (which will also make it opaque)

INCLUSIONS: ...adding various individual inclusions may not change the color completely (as with "coloring")
....metallic powders... metallic leaf (flakes or larger) ...mica flakes ...glitters.... sand ...herbs (see more below in Inclusions)
....tiny to small, dry, bakable items or materials (especially in thicker applications and shapes)

Layers of thin liquid clay can be built up on top of each other (with or without inclusions or coloring), but must be cured in-between.

Or liquid clay can be poured into various molds, or surrounded by clay or wire in cells, etc, to get deeper liquid clay .... various layers can be added then also (bake between)

some USES for liquid clays:
--bonding - glue (....if using the Translucent LS for bonding, best results may result from letting the parts sit overnight before baking since TLS doesn't seem as sticky as the opaque LS)
............or to act as a glue between layers of clay, or when joining two pieces of clay with an armature between.
...........adhere bits of wire, toothpick, or other material into clay (an eyepin for example) more firmly
...........make a better join between baked and unbaked clay pieces (in sculpts, eg.)
..... mend or fill cracks
......create "grout" for tiling techniques by mixing it with equal parts of colored clay.
-- strengthener ... over entire (raw or baked) pieces, or just parts ...brush liquid clay over (esp. thin areas)... see "Strengthener" below for more
--transfer images to clay ...either directly, or by creating a thin transparent decal to put onto clay (using images from copiers, certain inkjet prints, magazine pages, drawings, etc.)
--freestanding "clings"and decals for windows or other applications, etc.
--creating paints
--creating patinas, antiquing, etc.
--creating pools of transparent color in cells and depressions, as with cloisonne
--creating areas of clear but firm gel between wires or other materials, etc. (without necessarily fully containing)
--use as a smoother, by going over clay to remove fingerprints

Can also apply to wood & metal, at least ... or other bakable materials

CURING, BAKING: It's best to cure liquid clays at 300 degrees if possible (that high for 10 min, or for even for a few minutes)... this will create the best possible cure, and make the translucent the clearest it can be.... though it can be baked at normal temps just to cure it)
....If liquid clay is baked while on glass, tile, or another very smooth surface, it will be very shiny on the side where it touched.
....thin layers of liquid clay can also be cured with an embossing heat gun ...hold approx. 1" away & move gun around until the liquid clay becomes clear (30-60 sec) ... layers can be added on top by repeating these steps (can also use inclusions, tints in indiv. layers, or seal powders in, etc.)
...see more on baking below in "Safety", etc.

CLARITY: To make liquid clay really clear, Donna Kato recommends using a heat gun after baking ... and on each baked layer, if using layers, before moving on to the next layer .....(she uses Kato liquid clay... works for Fimo and Sculpey liquid clays also???)

PROBLEMS with OTHER MATERIALS
...Armor-all.. the liquid sculpey would not flow and adhere to any spot on my (raw or baked?) clay that had been in contact with Armor-all (...so could act as a "release" though?)
........(I've noticed a distinct weakening of clay when using Armor-all too ... thin pieces of clay whereit had been used often wouldn't hold up to stress.) Jeanne
...Future refuses to stick to the (baked clay) where the TLS is! ...even after several coats and rebaking, the Future just won't stick to these small areas and I have dull areas .Heather
…....hmmm, Future it works fine for me... however I had sanded and buffed the TLS first which might have left sufficient roughness on the surface to let the Future adhere. havenmaven

THIN or THICK ...CONSISTENCY:
.... thin liquid clays (when necessary) with Diluent (now called Sculpey Clay Softener)
....to thicken when necessary, let sit out overnight in a shallow container
.........to use as a glue ...I always have about about 3 different viscosities of TLS available in 3 lids, so I can choose how sticky I need for each use ...I put liquid clay in the lids & let them sit out on my worktable (the longer it sits, the thicker it gets) .....I start a new lid every month ...then I use toothpicks to dip out the stuff and use . syndee
....TLS is usually fairly loose out of the bottle or can already (but LS is usually thicker).... so I only add Diluent-Softener if needed, e.g.:
..........when adding Pearlex powder has thickened it too much..... or if you want to do a wash with it. Jody.
..........liquid clays with oil paints mixed into them will thicken over time (I've had colors in jars for years, and just added Diluent if they've thickened too much .. if there is a lot more air than TLS in the closed jar though, it will dry out too much). Jody
..............so, lessen the amt. of "head space" in your long-term containers .....or put a piece of aluminum foil or something else on the surface??
.........perhaps pouring your runny TLS in a pan or something to create a large surface to aid in evaporation might be a possibility. Having a fan blowing on it also tends to thicken the TLS... pat
.........sometimes even new bottles of TLS can be too thick to make good transfer decals with, so thin with Diluent
....if you're putting a coat of TLS on something to seal it, you usually won't need to thin it at all.
....however, the opaque LS is more likely to need thinning since the pigment soaks up the plasticiser, and also thickens as it ages. Jody
(....see also Air Bubbles below)

???Liquid Sculpey sounds to me to be nothing more than a Plastisol ink. Plastisol inks have been used in Silk Screen Printing for years because they are so much easier to work with than water based inks - they don't dry and clog the screens unless you cure them with heat. If you want to learn some more tricks on using this liquid sculpey for t-shirts, you might want to pick up a book at your local library on Silk Screening with Plastisol.
Contact your local Silk Screen supply store and ask them about Plastisol. It's also a liquid Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) and I'd venture to say it comes in more colors and costs less than sculpey because they sell it in large quantities and it has been around for years.

HEALTH note:
Though unlikely, it is possible to get an allergic reaction to liquid clays (especially rashes)...see Safety > Rashes if you suspect this might be happening, and to find info on barrier creams and gloves)
.....I think it's best to use a brush to apply it! I don't like to hear about people using their fingers to apply TLS (not that I think it's all that dangerous but I'm a believer in lightening the chemical load on our bodies in whatever way we can). Jody
......many do use their fingers tho' . . .
....if you use a heat gun on liquid clay, try not to inhale great gulps of it while doing so

SOME EXAMPLES of ABOVE USES

Donna's lesson on using many thin layers of Kato (liquid clay)
....she also put something in-between each layer.... in this case to cover a black clay ball (held on skewer):
.......(let cool after each heated stage)
....Perfect Pearls metallic powder all over....rubberstamp finger-rubbed with Genesis paint...bake 30 min at 275...Kato all over and set w/ heat gun...stamp with Perfect Medium (glycerin?) dusted with Perfect Pearl powder & blow off excess & seal this detail only by dabbing w/ Kato (don't smear) & set with heat gun... layer of Kato & set with heat gun...tiny drawing(s) withYasutomo Gel Xtreme pens & let dry & dab Kato to seal & set w/ heat gun..layer of Kato & set with heat gun... can apply more coats of Kato, setting after each if wanted... after all layers are done, bake 30 min.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1820587,00.html
(more uses below)

If you get a hairline crack in a sculpture, you can take a little and thin some of the base into it and fill the crack---Rebake and I've done this and cannot find the crack.

"patina"...glaze,etc....--in the polymer world, the term patina seems to have come to refer to one of various surface effects which cause the surface to look softened, mellowed, or marked as from age or from use (original definition: a film formed on copper and bronze by exposure, or by treatment with acids, etc.)
... the original background surface or color usually shows through in some way . . . either in certain areas, or through a translucent patina layer
. . . there are various ways to create patinas on polymer clay: acrylic paints, liquid clays (with inclusions such as powders or oil paints), finishes (such as Future, with inclusions), colored pencils, alcohol-based inks, e.g.
...these can be stippled on with a brush, sponge, etc., or they can be painted on to cover all or just certain areas, applied then rubbed off to remain only in the crevices, etc.
...these can also be layered over each other, or used with other surface manipulations like transfers, stampings, sheets created in vairous ways, etc.

Prisma Glitters by Gick, or glitters by Jones Tones, work well with the clay and with TLS as they are designed to be used on fabric and heat set in textile mediums and washed and dried. Patty B.
...some of the glitters change colors... Sarajane

............(see many more uses in the sub-categories below) .............

CONTAINERS & APPLICATORS... and application

Donna Kato offers a brush which is good for applying liquid clay ....short (1/2") bristle and long bristle brushes (soft sheep wool?) by Yasumoto
http://prairiecraft.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KCLM
.....I found some teeny, bendable, disposable, brushes and applicators that are great for applying superglue (or liquid clay or Diluent, Pearl-Ex, etc.).. the Microbrush has bristles like a tiny paintbrush, and the Ultrabrush has non-absorbent fuzzy fiber pads (in 3 sizes) ... I got them at my hobby store in pkgs. of 10. Diane B. (for more application ideas, see Glues > Superglues)
http://www.microbrush.com/products.asp?area=3&lang=13&categNum=11&market=4 (click on each, then hover over pics)
...TLS is excellent for sealing in surface powder. …put on a thin, thin, thin layer (not thinned with diluent)..... what i do is use my finger and apply it directly from the TLS container by just touching lightly with the dipped finger and spreading that wee bit with other undipped fingers of the same hand.... that way it doesn't run. Sunni
...some people feel that one shouldn't touch liquid clay with the skin too much though

When TLS is in a metal can, it's just a pain to pour off. I have a steady hand so I slowly tilt the can or jar until I have a thin line of TLS flowing into the squeeze bottle. Once I've got it lined up and steady, I'll tip it a little more so it comes out faster. Maybe you could put a piece of mylar against the can where the rim of the lid goes in and kind of cup it a little to make a spout for the TLS to flow down. Jody

I transfer a portion of my TLS from the large can to a large Jr. size baby food jar for every day use.... If the opening of your container is smaller than the one on the baby food jar some kind of funnel is a good idea. Dotty
....when I need to mix a bigger amount, I use paper cups with the wax coating.
...plastic film containers . . . Does Liquid Sculpey eventually eat away at this kind of plastic?
Hasn't eaten through the one I've had some in for 6 months. I used the translucent kind (of film cannister?), liberated from the trash bin in the cart where people fill out their envelopes for processing at Costco. I usually pick up a couple each time we shop there. The translucent type let you see the color inside very well.

for small amounts of mixed colors (using immediately or storing):
.....snap-lid containers meant for acrylic paints can work well
...... American Science and Surplus http://www.sciplus.com has those little plastic snap-shut jars that come with craft kits ... they come hooked together in a row, though I cut mine apart. They're great for saving liquid clay colors (and also for Flecto + Pearlex mixes). Jody B.
http://www.sculpey.com/sculpey401f.htm
...small glass bottles like those for contact lenses or from hospitals or vets

The stuff is so gooey that I tried putting it in a small squeeze bottle to apply it. Works great!
....I baked some clay sheets then drew on them with the squeeze bottle, and dusted it with embossing powder. It takes a bit of practice with the bottle and I had to wipe the tip now and again. Keep the bottle tip down between projects, if possible (to avoid bubbles and air inside which will hasten thickening)
. I also tried tapping the bottle to get any air bubbles out. Jody B.

I've had Liquid Sculpey in plastic glue syringes for months with no problem. As I used it up I refilled them. The plastic kind of looks similar to the medicine cups but it is a lot heavier. I think the cups are a different type of plastic.

There are applicator bottles that are used in the fabric dyeing industry that have different size metal tips, from .5mm to .9mm (I believe). The bottles can be found in different sizes. I have the 1/2 oz bottle and I find it great for applying glues and other liquids. Instead of taking off the metal tip everytime I'm finished I just insert a pin into the metal tip to keep it from firming up. If interested try these web sites: http:// www.dharmatrading.com and http://www.jacquardproducts.com
......or check for the metal tips packages (including one bottle) at crafts stores (see more below in Piping sub-category)
...Lynda finds that using the larger tips (under added or attached areas) results in excess glue being visible, so she uses a smaller tip and less liquid clay
....Lee Valley's small, brush-like disposable applicators (lifted directly from the dentistry business) let you apply tiny amounts of oil, paint, glue, stain, etc., very accurately and controllably, and also good for cleaning...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=45857&category=1,110,42967
...However, Lynda says that a clay color (like red) can get onto the tip of the applicator . . .
...and if the TLS is too thick, it'll bleed onto lighter colors (though she used this colored TLS to color her figure's cheeks)

squeeze bottles to use with LS: Sometimes craft or art supply stores will have them, but I found that the easiest thing is to get them from a beauty supply shop. Or from someone who dyes her hair, because those bottles work just great. The Dick Blick near me had the same bottle that diluent comes in if you want a smaller size, and you can reuse diluent bottles. American Science and surplus may also have them. If you need to close up a squeeze bottle that has LS in it and you dont have a cap to put over the tip, unscrew the top and put a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the bottle and screw the cap back on. Jody
I found some great squeeze bottles with different size removable (interchangeable) metal tips at Jo Ann's Fabrics and Crafts. The work great for Liquid Sculpey. I used them for backfilling stamps to make faux enamel. Marlene

I just got a really nice little storage unit for my TLS colors from American Science and Surplus. It's #89964 Box and Canisters for $4.95. It's an aluminum box with 20 little glass topped canisters inside. The whole thing is 6 1/2" x 5 1/4" and very lightweight. I wouldn't check it with my baggage because the canisters aren't screw tops, but I don't think it would be a problem to carry on a plane. American Science and Surplus is online at: http://www.sciplus.com Jody B.
These are way cool boxes--I have my peal-ex powders in mine, and covered the box lid with pc to go with my tools. Sarajane H
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32171&category=1,43326,43328&ccurrency=1&SID= Lee Valley here in Canada carries the same containers in either a hinged metal container or a cardboard box. They come in various sizes and are VERY handy. ...their US prices seem to be considerably lower than AS&S. BTW, the lids are pretty tight, but I'd put an elastic or some string around the entire box before carrying them anywhere that they might be at risk of opening up. When the box lid is closed the lids on the containers can't open (but they may not be watertight - you should check this before using anything too runny - TLS is probably ok as it is pretty thick). Vicki in Vancouver

...talking about containers to store colored tls in... i get a bunch of those little serum bottles (about 1.5" hi) from my vets once a week. they give me both plastic and glass. the plastic melts in the oven at the required temperatures, so i was just gonna chuck the plastic ones. when i realized with their little rubber stoppers, the tiny bottles are perfect for storing the tls in that's been colored. i work in small amounts anyway, so these were just perfect!! i now have a bunch of colors and an unlimited supply of containers. and they are not reacting with the tls - so far (i've only been using them for a week, now)!!. Sunni

(for loading into small bottles) Well, I just squeeze the bottle, put the opening on the surface of the LS and ease the bottle open. Suction draws the LS into the bottle. :-) Kimba

a simple way to pack LS (to avoid spilling when traveling to classes, etc. )… I have mine in squeeze bottles
... just remove the cap, put a piece of plastic wrap or baggie over the mouth of the bottle and screw the lid back on.
.....I still put the bottles in a baggie but I've had no leaks even when I checked my luggage. Jody B.

other application techniques

to apply liquid clay to a on a curved or vertical surface, where gravity will make it run down or spread
...use a heatgun to firm up, or to completely cure
..apply in thin layers which are less likely to run ... bake between each layer
...use a thicker brand of liquid clay (LS or TLS)
...thicken the liquid clay by leaving it exposed to air awhile... or thicken it with an inclusion such as mica powder, pigments, chalk, etc.
...contain the liquid clay, either permanently (see "cells" below)... or temporarily with something else which can be easily removed later (possibly using a barrier of alum. foil, etc., or Repel Gel)... or cut off with scissors or blade

apply liquid clay on a piece hot out of the oven... the heat sets it instantly it for great dimensional effects ...then re-bake for strength.Emily

CLEANING . . . brushes & fabric

I don't clean my brushes ...never have... not even way back when the first liquid Sculpey became available.
....I just squeeze the brush well using a shop towel or paper towels, stick the brush in my jar that holds stuff, and that's it. Never had a problem. (yet!) . . . I use a good brush (just one) to make sure the fibers don't come out, and then I just leave it sitting in my jar of TLS ( after using different colors of TLS, I take a paper towel and vigorously wipe off the TSLand then just put the brush back into the untinted liquid. Dotty
....that's all I have ever done also.. I clean TLS off my brush with a tissue, then I just stick the brush (business end up) into a jar. Patti MD
...I cover my TLS brushes only to keep off dust and dirt. I usually use aluminum foil or plastic wrap, but they are exposed to some air. Seth
...I use Diluent-Softener to clean Liquid Sculpey out of my brushes. I think that most people do not clean their brushes, but I find that the brushes stay in better shape longer when I put a couple of drops of diluent on the brush and clean just a little by brushing on a paper towel. Jeanne

I clean my brushes with paint thinner. Jody B.

When Jody went to Polyform on a visit, she found out that plain old rubbing alcohol will clean up TLS (on brushes, etc.).) Cindy
...Yup, but make darn sure you get the alcohol in the brush dried out before you next use it to mix TLS....alcohol messes up the TLS if you mix it in.. Jody
...One person accidentally thinned her TLS with rubbing alcohol (so she used a lot).... it made the TLS bubble up- kind of a foamy look.

To clean my brushes I use "Fast Orange" waterless hand cleaner (their pumice formula -- they also make one without, but that doesn't work like the pumice formula).
... WalMart carries it; automotive supply stores have it; I've even seen it in grocery stores. There are similar brands, but this is the only one I'm familiar with. I love this stuff! It cleans my hands, my brushes and anything else that's clay-dirty.
...Just work a bit into the bristles of the brush, then rinse the brush well with tap water. Comes out looking like new! Bonnie

For small things, use hand wipes (those without alcohol okay too?)

I noticed that when I was cleaning the brush I had used with the TLS, it left a very noticeable yellow tinge to the paper towel I was drying them...Lyrael
....I have had that happen with every brush I've ever used with TLS. I clean them with alcohol now and it works really well, but I still see brown gunk off the brushes. It never comes off till I go to clean my brush. Must be something in the brush. The only thing I've used them for is acrylics. And I clean them after each use. So I dont know. I wouldn't worry about it unless it's coming off on your clay. You might want to get a brand new brush and try again. Cindy
....or keep some brushes just to use with liquid clays
...The yellow may have been some color from the brush itself. The chemicals in the SuperSculpey may have leached them out. I had this happen with two brushes. Dotty CA

As for removing liquid clay from fabric, soak off as much as you can by laying the TLS side down on a towel, and then pressing with another towel on the back side. Don't press from front to back, as this will only press the TLS deeper into the material. (I worked at Sears in the ladies dress department once and this is what they taught us to do when something needed to be removed from a dress, and it worked.)
...Then add a little Sculpey Diluent and do the same thing several more times.
...Then gently wipe the surface with a soft piece of material soaked in some Diluent.
....Then wash the top in COLD water (don't heat the water or any residue of TLS will harden and won't let go).
Can't hurt to use some Shout also. Dotty

AIR BUBBLES

I think that there's already air present in the liquid clay when you buy it....the process of making it and then shipping it....those bubbles may be nearly microscopic . . . the liquid itself is so thick that air bubbles can't rise, but when you apply heat, the air bubbles expand and meld with nearby air bubbles, getting larger and visible, but they're still not big enough to rise against that thick fluid.
....I believe that adding Diluent to the liquid will make bubbles less of a problem by making the fluid less viscous, allowing the bubbles to rise to the surface and burst.
....if you're using layers of liquid clay, keeping them very thin helps . . . applying several very thin coats, with several curings in between, will give you a clearer end result than using one thick coat. Elizabeth
....and older, opaque white LS is even thicker than TLS

I have been pleasantly surprised at how differently Kato Liquid Clay works compared to TLS. .... there are a lot fewer bubbles than the TLS, and it flows evenly. Jody (primarily because it's naturally thinner?)

DON'T shake your liquid clay! ...if you want to stir it, treat it like varnish and stir carefully so you don't trap air in it. The question of rather to stir at all has come up lately. Until now,I have not. I keep both kinds in squeeze bottles and glue needles instead. Jody B.
...(sheet of liquid clay) ...It's the stirring that is causing the problem if the bubbles appear after mixing something into the TLS.
...so bump the bottom of container several times on your work surface (after letting the piece sit for a while)....this helps to bring the bubbles to the surface. Dotty
...try letting the liquid clay sit for an hour or so on a level surface....the bubbles should rise to the top and you can prick them with a pin. Irene
...... maybe an hour isn't enough - you can let it sit overnight and see if that's better.

To color liquid clays, acrylic paints contain water and should not be mixed into them or there will be bubbling and/or later white spots (some people feel that using only a little works okay though, and perhaps the tube acrylics which contain less water might work a bit)
............I found that when I had a nearly 50-50 mix of acrylic craft paint and TLS, the bubbles were there no matter how long it sat. Janey
...some things that can be used instead are oil paints, oil pastels, Genesis paints (maybe not though), alcohol-based inks like Pinata, metallic powders like Pearl-Ex
...it doesn't take much addtive to color liquid clays though, and the color will darken during baking so consider that too

liquid clays baked in silicone molds you make yourself can result in bubble-like areas on the surfaces of the baked liquid clay cast which can be caused by the silicone mold material itself
....if you look at the interior surface of some of the cured silicone molds with a 10x jeweler's loupe, you can see air bubbles/imperfections... later when baking regular opaque clays inside these molds, you won't see the imperfections caused by this too much, but they will definitely show up on the liquid clays or on PMC. ...some brands (of silicone molds) seem to be particularly prone to the problem.
.......to avoid getting little air bubbles or bumps: (I was using Miracle Mold):
(1) allow the liquid clay settle for a bit before baking (...at least 30 minutes)
(2) don't incorporate air into the silicone when first mixing the two components. caneguru
.... I should have let the mold with the Liquid Sculpey sit until all the bubbles had worked to the surface (there are several pin holes in my finished product).
(...see more on this below in "Molds, Stamps, Texture sheets, Antiquing" below)

(transfers especially )....the way I get around the bubbles is to let the first L.S. layer "rest" for 20 minutes or so BEFORE I apply the transfer (this allows the air bubbles to rise to the surface and "pop") (or I pop them).... then, I carefully press the transfer into the L.S. using that "circular" method.... finally, I let the L.S./transfer rest an additional 30 minutes before I bake (but be SURE you don't shift or move the transfer, or it will come out a blur!)
.....to see the bubbles in a sheet for yourself (if not taking precautions), try a plain sample of L.S. -- apply a layer of it directly onto a ceramic tile. Let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes, then come back and look at it -- you will see minute air bubbles which magically appear, even though they didn't seem to be there when you applied the L.S.!! . Need2Bead
(.....see "Transfers" above also)

. . . for more on bubbles, see above in "Other Comparisons"

BAKING, OVENS, SAFETY

Liquid Sculpey has a much stronger smell while baking than solid polymer clays (because it has so much more plasticiser??) . . . so many people prefer to bake it outside or away from living areas. . . if that’s not possible, at least ventilate very well while baking and remove small animals, and babies.

You will hear different opinions regarding the safety of LS. After all it is a manufacturing material that has been picked up by polymer clay artists. I use some easy precautions. I never bake it in my kitchen oven, I have a dedicated clay oven on my porch so I don't have to worry about polymer fumes of any kind getting in my house. I aso use an oven thermometer to be sure the oven is set correctly. I don't use my fingers to apply it and I keep my hands and my tools clean. And of course, don't burn it. That shouldn't be a problem since the TLS can take more heat than the clay can. Jody Bishel

If you use more than the occasional small amount of TLS, that build up will happen even faster in your oven. Just to be on the safe side, I recommend that you use a roaster pan if you want to cure TLS in your kitchen oven at all. Jody

A good warning,Kelly! Anything that clay would react to, LS will eat up even faster. So if you have eyeglasses for close work, be very careful about where you leave them. If they are the kind with plastic lenses, contact with clay or LS will damage them!

I think that latex gloves would be wise if you will be getting your hands in this stuff. Judging by the little bit I dripped on a piece of paper, it leaches a lot of plasticiser. Jody B.

Any time you use paint thinner or turpentine, etc., they must be completely dry before baking, since they are flammable…

Baking will make TLS more translucent . . . thin sheets will be flexible.

And you should bake (most liquid clays) at 300 degrees! I thought that was a typo. . . I have been trying to bake it at a LOWER temperature (230-250) whenever possible. Maybe that's why these TLS'd pieces still have an opaque look to them! Elizabeth
...It's recommended that it reach 300. I cure mine for a half an hour at 260 and then up it to 300 for the last ten minutes. Seems like when I let it "rest" it settles out. And it does get a bit more firm. But I don't think this is a necessity. Cindy

Actually, TLS won't solidify unless it's left out for a long, long time. But what does happen is that it settles or smoothes somewhat when left to rest a bit. This is great if you have put it over a textured surface and you want it to settle into the recesses sort of like antiquing. I've used this technique on a number of my kaleidoscopes with nice results. Dotty

white Liquid Sculpey three small aluminum or glass dishes to mix liquid clay oil paint - medium green, medium blue, yellow

Any time TLS crumbles, it is one of two things. Either the temperature was too low or it wasn't baked long enough. I use 10-15 min. for something with a coat of TLS on it (by that I mean that it won't run on a vertical surface), and add time for thicker applications like faux enameling.
...That's probably the cause (or your piece cracked when dunked in cold water after being baked at 260) . I don't go under 275 (pre heated) and that's when I have translucent clay that I want to protect, or I plan to rebake and will get up to 300 on the last bake Jody B.

. . . (That's because I've done layers of TLS surface decoration and set them with a heat gun.) To be sure they are cured, I give them the normal fifteen minutes at 300 when I get to the last layer. Jody

<< I recently bought my first can of TLS, and I was surprised to see that the only instructions on it said, "Bake in oven at 275 degrees F. Clean up with alcohol." I thought it was essential to bake it at 300 degrees, for at least some time. What gives here? Is the temp diff. for the LS than the TLS?>> Diane B.
They are playing it safe (on the can instructions) and deferring to the temperature for curing clay, but if you want something to be really clear you need to go up to 300 degrees. Jody
Jody says she may also go up to 325 degrees, but watches it carefully and ventilates fully.
Interesting! I've noticed that my transfers baked at 275 were less durable and colorful than the ones I do at 300. I use 300 always for the transfers now. I like the idea others have mentioned when using both clay and LS of raising the temp to 300 for 10 minutes after baking thoroughly. Has anyone ever had a problem with doing this? Julia
I've rebaked Liquid Sculpey lots of times with no problems. I've been doing so much multiple baking that I just bake it long enough to set it and then make sure it gets a good bake by the time the piece is complete.

RELEASES

Armor-all??.. the liquid sculpey would not flow and adhere to any spot on my clay that had been in contact with Armor-all (...so could act as a "release" for liquid clays?)

any slick, bakable surface (shiny metal, glass, ceramic tile, etc) also acts as a "realse" for liquid clay because it can be peeled away after baking

Repel Gel will not act as a relase for liquid clays (at least not Kato liquid clay)

VIDEOS, DVDs & BOOKS

VIDEO: Jody Bishel . . . Exploring Liquid Sculpey covers various uses for Liquid Sculpey:
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/pages/vid/pc13.html
Color (mixing artists' oils and Pearlex powders in LS & TLS to create custom colors and effects), Pin Marbleizing (see short video clip on website), Gold Layering (impressing clay with acrylic paint in recesses and gold powder on high areas + 2 coats & bakings of TLS), Layered Patinas (making a footed vessel? over a light bulb--broken out; spotty tinted TLS, baked; TLS and powder on outside and TLS glaze on inside; adds folded, ribbed, patinated leaves . . . using Liquid Sculpey in a glue gun. Following the final baking of the piece, colored Liquid Sculpey is applied to the ribs of the leaves and setting with a heat gun), Faux Enameling (cloisonne), Backfilling Images with liquid clay (carved, stamped?... removing excess and sanding), Transfers (TLS on glass & others) . .tips on avoiding bubbles and using as glue

VIDEO: Nan Roche . . . Special Techniques in Polymer Clay
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/pages/vid/pc10.html
In one segment, she uses LS to make marbled paper patterns by floating liquid clay on water (with powders and paints used to give color), then transfers the pattern to beads, etc. (see below in Films-Decals)

DVD: Donna Kato . . .Tips Tricks and Techniques in Polymer Clay (double DVD), at prairiecraft.com
http://prairiecraft.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KB-DVD-TTT&Category_Code=B&Product_Count=6
.... 3.5 hours 2 ... includes basic conditioning, Skinner blends, beads, translucent layerings, ikat, mokume gane, metallic effects, Kato Liquid Medium, how to make a box, and finishing techniques.

DVD: Angie Scarr. . . Angie Scarr Miniatures: Liquid Fimo
http://www.polkadotcreations.com/books/detail_ssas06.html
miniature food making with liquid clay (in 1/12th and other scales) --projects for jams, stews, and other foods-- also stained glass windows.... 90 min

BOOK: Liquid Polymer Clay: Fabulous New Techniques for Making Jewelry and Home Accents, by Ann and Karen Mitchell
... diff's betw. LS and Kato liquid clay, transfers, tinting, " impression glazing " (antiquing with TLS and oil paint), marbelizing, cloisonne, stained glass, lampwork beads, clay "fabric," mosaics, silicone molds, as adhesive, plus some jewelry tech's ...144 pgs ......22 projects

Other books and videos have projects using liquid clay techniques as well.

INCLUSIONS ... & COLORING liquid clays

Liquid clays can be colored in a number of ways with dry materials or some liquid materials
(some will totally color it, others will have a more discrete effect):
SUMMARY
.... oil paints...or oil pastel shavings
....alcohol-based inks (like Pinata)
....heat-set paints & inks (I think)
...metallic powders (like Pearl Ex or real-metal powders)
... blush powder and eyeshadow ...or powder from chalks
....artist's pigments (such as Jaquard or Genisis Artist Colors (from AMACO)
...also more separate bits like flakes of bits of metallic leaf.... mica flakes
... glitters .... herbs... sand (& colored play sand)
...little "things" that are bakable and small, etc... bits of nature...
...even flakes or powders of baked solid clay or baked liquid clay (baked thin, then crushed...or ground in food processor or by hand)
...larger bakable things can be embedded in larger amounts of liquid clay (in molds, e.g.)

Any of the above can also be combined into the same liquid clay.

Any material containing very much water should not be used in liquid clays because the water will turn to steam during baking and create bubbles or rough eruptions
(acrylic paints, watercolor paints, water-based inks, etc.)

Go slow when adding anything to liquid clays because they will become opaque rather quickly.

It might be a good idea to use something disposable when mixing colors or other inclusions into liquid clays... then can just toss after use.
...e.g., patty papers (small parchment papers)... or bits of alum. foil ...or Ziplocs

for storing mixed-up colors of liquid clay, see above in Containers

I've used a heat gun to partially cure liquid clays occasionally before baking (thanks for that tip, Jody!)
. .just set an oven thermometer in front of the heat gun to determine how far away to hold it to heat the piece to the temp you need

To make liquid clay really clear, Donna Kato recommends using a heat gun after baking... and on each baked layer if using layers before moving on to the next layer (works also for Fimo and Sculpey liquid clays???)

Donna Kato put something in-between each thin layer of Kato (liquid clay)... in this case to cover a black clay ball (held on skewer):
.......(let cool after each heated stage)
....Perfect Pearls metallic powder all over....rubberstamp finger-rubbed with Genesis paint...bake 30 min at 275...Kato all over and set w/ heat gun...stamp with Perfect Medium (glycerin?) dusted with Perfect Pearl powder & blow off excess & seal this detail only by dabbing w/ Kato (don't smear) & set with heat gun... layer of Kato & set with heat gun...tiny drawing(s) withYasutomo Gel Xtreme pens & let dry & dab Kato to seal & set w/ heat gun..layer of Kato & set with heat gun
... can apply more coats of Kato, setting after each if wanted... after all layers are done, bake 30 min.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1820587,00.html (CDS-1419, Muli-Layered Polymer Clay Bead)
Donna Kato's lesson on making a freestanding piece of liquid clay with chopped opalescent inclusions (to create faux opal)
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/A_New_Opal.html

Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and oils, powders, pencils ...on clay, making clings, etc.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html
...pallette of colors using pearlex powders and oil paints and thinned with diluent.... then draw the pin through all the color drops and bake at 300 for 20 min. Body of the cabs is gold Premo.
(see more on clings below in )

silver metallic leaf, or a light colored clay, can be used underneath the liquid clay with non-opaque to make the colors really pop...

I have finally learned to do a "test swatch" of liquid clay before using it on a project (I roll out some white clay, glop some tinted TLS on there, and heat the sucker with my handy dandy heat gun)
....started doing this after I had a few projects with TLS that started out a lovely color (but changed into a yicky puke green. Julie
...this can also be true with any inclusions, and may also vary by brand of clay or powder, etc.
...I think the TLS itself is not so much discoloring, as the additives.
......some of the glitters changes colors
..... most of the embossing powders are muddy if baked on surface rather than rolled in... and the colored crushed glass totally lost its color
..... for inks, see below in Paints & Inks....I have a hunch it all depends on what the additives are colored with.. . . Sarajane

Most of the "Colored Liquid Sculpey" colors from Polyform (most are metallic) are created primarily with mica powders
....I've been making my own "gold TLS" . . . it's Rhein Gold mica powder + TLS. Elizabeth

Elizabeth's vessels with many layers of Colored Liquid Sculpey or colored TLS
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1416609&uid=488109

glitters: ....Prisma Glitters by Gick, or glitters by Jones Tones, work well with the clay and with TLS as they are designed to be heat set in textile mediums, and washed and dried. Patty B.
Donna Kato's lesson on making a freestanding piece of liquid clay with chopped opalescent inclusions (to create faux opal)
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/A_New_Opal.html
...Marie's glitter in liquid clay(?), squeezed out as outlining on large flower pendant
http://www.clayfactory.net/marie/ecrunecklace.htm

For a surface technique resembling wood grain or other patterns, using opaque or translucent liquid clays mixed with colors or powders, then manipulated, see Faux Turquoise/Wood > Wood > Surface Techniques.

I haven't thought about it, actually - I don't know if "water mixable" oil paints contain water before you thin them, so I don't know if they'd work or not. They're expensive and I just never thought about buying a set to see what they'd do with the clay.
....The main reason that I'm sticking with the Genesis and the Lumiere paints though, is that they're made for heat-setting. I know they're not going to release cadmium, zinc or other noxious substances into the air if I bake them because they're made to be heated without toxicity
...... I almost never cook anything that's got regular oil paints in it any more because of the toxic substances artists oil colors. (And I believe that would include the water-soluble oils.) The cadmiums are particularly troublesome.... I'll use them, eventually but only when I can take the oven outside and cure stuff on the back porch. :) I would certainly recommend that as a basic precaution when curing cadmium-pigmented colors. Elizabeth

(see below in Strengthener for adding bits of "silk" fabric to liquid clay for strength in thin freestanding areas)

Powders, pigments, etc. ... (dry)

Most any dry pigment should be okay to mix into liquid clay.

We have used face makeup (blush powders ... and eye shadows?), and most anything that gives the desired color to add color to LS. . . . Use sparingly, a little goes a long way.
...what about all kinds of chalks (can powder them by scratching on sandpaper)

I use oil pastels since liquid clay is oil-based ... and oil pastels are fairly inexpensive ... will bake up darker.

...there are a number of oil pastels on the market and most can be used as long as they're soft enough to 'smoosh' around on a glazed tile..... they've got to make a soft paste in order for the liquid clay to be colored by them.
....I make about a dime size of color on my tile, and then add TLS until I reach the desired hue
...first scribble on a non-absorbent surface with the oil pastel of your choice, then put a drop or so of liquid clay on top, and mix.... works great. Kelly
........Craypas are one type of oil pastel. Carolyn
....oil pastels would probably be harder to mix into liquid clay than chalk pastels ... the regular chalk pastels grind up to a powder easily. Jody
....I used Grumbacher pastels...intense artist colors... I just shaved off a bit, then dumped it in with my TLS... then dragged my pin through it.nae

Have you tried mixing a little clear liquid clay with metallic powders (... like Fimo's real-metal pulver , or a mica-based metallic powder)
....then painting it on, or rubbing it on, before baking? ......I've been getting some good results this way. Suzanne
...In fact, the metallic effects in the Colored Liquid Sculpeys are made mostly with mica powders. Elizabeth

make your own metallic "paint":
...i put an 1/8 tsp of gold metallic powder into a small container, added about 1 tsp of clear liqid clay
..then thinned it with about 10-12 drops of Diluent-Softener.
... paint it onto the surface of whatever item, and it bakes right to it!! :D Sunni
.... in order to get a really metallic effect with PearlEx, I find that you need to use a LOT of powder (which can be expensive), then dilute the mixture with Sculpey Diluent (now called "Clay Softener") to get it back down to a workable viscosity. Elizabeth
...If you have some of the Pearl-Ex powders or the Powdered Pearls, you can use those to color the TLS (as well as oil paints)... just beautiful ...Dotty

(.....see more on using powders in liquid clay as a "paint" in Paints > Metallic and glittery...)

To make this "paint" with Pearl Ex, I didn't use TLS because gives a grainy embellishment. sunni
.......TLS has a graininess to it that isn't as good for smooth "painting" unless you want to work with that, and accent it. Jody B.
.......graininess worse with embossing powders
..and because TLS must be rebaked to cure
.. and i didn't use Varathane simply because it's a bit milky, and i like to see what i'm applying
...while the Future makes a smoother line of "paint." sunni .

Elizabeth's use of Pearl Ex mixed into clear liquid clay to create dimensional veining and rim outlines on the leaves of her vessels:
... for leaf vase, veins made with a TLS plus Rhine Gold metallic powder... for votive, the brownish leaves were given flat coats of and TLS.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1416609&uid=488109
...You can mix in so much powder that it almost turns into more of a paste than a liquid and still be able to get it through the Jacquard fine-line tipped bottles or the fine-line tips you see at Michael's in the tole-painting section. The advantage to this thicker consistency is that the lines you make stay dimensional - before curing, I leave the piece to settle a bit, so that the mica flakes will all "relax" and lay flatter in the TLS so they'll look more metallic. The thicker paste doesn't run. I hope CLS (the new Colored Liquid Sculpey) will be on the thick side, too...Elizabeth

the Mitchells' lesson on backgound created by painting on blank areas of glass with a thin layer (of 1 1/2 T liquid clay mixed with pea-size Aztec gold Pearl Ex)
.....votive is baked upside down and any drips gently cut away from rim afterward ... entire surface then covered with a gloss varnish
(...after partially covering glass votive with translucent clay leaf shapes (cut from a sheet of clay stamped with real leaves)... and backfilling (each leaf is painted with tinted liquid clay --duo green-yellow Pearl Ex + dk.green oil paint -- which is wiped from the top areas in sev. min's, and left in crevices)
http://www.diynet.com/diy/cr_candles/article/0,2025,DIY_13748_2274492,00.html

sometimes, I gently brush Pearl Ex only on the high spots (over areas previously covered with TLS?) to maintain maximum shine…. Jody B.

interference mica powder in TLS ....I impressed some purple clay with a plastic texture sheet, then baked it
.... then went over the whole baked piece with red/blue duo mica powder mixed into the TLS
...the raised areas of the piece appear metallic purplish-blue, and the recessed areas deep semi-transparent blue.... beautiful. Dotty

(for sprinkles?) I tap a brush I've loaded with Pearl Ex on my finger over the piece and into TLS coating... it is still wet so the powder will stick. Jody B.

Try mixing the various gold/copper powders together . . . such as mixing Antique Gold, Aztec Gold, and Super-Copper to make a copper-gold color, as Ann and Karen do in their lesson
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_FioratoPendant.htm

embossing powders can be used with liquid clays too, in the regular way
. . Marie R's lesson on drizzling-drawing (a tree) onto baked clay with LS, pulling some of the lines out with a needle tool, then covering with embossing powder (she used a "snowflake type") ...tamp off excess and bake again (275 F for 15 minutes)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_TLSEmbossed.htm
....(see also below in Piping, for drizzling with LS and metallic powders)
... I used some embossing powder, but it ended up mixing in all grainy. Sara
........the embossing powder doesn't really mix in like a dry pigment would, but that can be a good effect too. Jody B
...most of the embossing powders are muddy if baked on the surface rather than rolled in. Sarajane

Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and powders and pencils ...on clay, making clings, etc.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html

for using a pin to "drag" or "pull" designs through dots and lines of liquid clays (colored with powders) placed on top of a plain layer of liquid clay, see below in Clings "On Glass" .....(can be done on glass or on a baked clay shape)
...Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and oils, powders, pencils ...on clay, making clings, etc.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html
...pallette of colors using pearlex powders and oil paints and thinned with diluent .... then draw the pin through all the color drops and bake at 300 for 20 min. Body of the cabs is gold Premo.

discrete bits of things:
glitters: ....Prisma Glitters by Gick, or glitters by Jones Tones, work well with the clay and with TLS as they are designed to be heat set in textile mediums, and washed and dried. Patty B.
..some of the glitters may change colors. Sarajane

for more discrete inclusions, like mylar shapes or other things, see below in Clings ...
...and especially for things between layers of liquid clay, see Transfers > Liquid Clay)

(see also below in Molds for marbling, and adding leaf, metallic powders, tiny holeless glass beads, and stamps/charms)

Oil Paints & Inks, etc. ...(liquid)

You don't want to mix water into the clay, so watercolors and other water-based inks generallly won't be good options. Elizabeth
...Well, you can't reliably use acrylic paints to tint liquid clay . . .
....but acrylics aren't always a problem... it can depend on how much acrylic is added , but I don't want to risk it. Jody B.
.......Marie Segal has been able to tint LS with acrylics -no problem at all.... since you want only a hint of color,I think it would be fine.
....acrylic paints contain water which can turn into steam in the oven, leading to bubbles or puffiness or cloudy areas ....and/or make white spots in the baked liquid clay which usually show up right away . Jody .

Liquids that will work are : oil paints... oil pastels... alcohol-based inks (and some other mineral based? inks)

You can tint liquid clays with alcohol-based inks ...Pinata Inks
.....the Pinata Inks are alcohol based and alcohol can cause bubbling and frothing in the liquid clay if there's too much of it.
....I've been dropping the ink onto the surface and letting it sit for a while in hopes that the alcohol will evaporate off
....then I mix the color into the liquid clay....so far, no problems even when I didn't wait to let the alcohol evaporate. Elizabeth

Also some sort of mineral-based inks ( they smell kind of like Kiwi paste shoe polish)
....little re-inker bottles of Crafter's Ink by ColorBox are wonderful for making for mixing right into liquid clays to tint them (or to make your own stamp pads)
....these are not transparent like the Pinata inks, though in very small quantities you might not notice any lessening of translucency in layers of cured LS
Elizabeth
..plus Posh Impressions re-inker liquids
(and probably other brands of inks that I have no experience with)
...different lines of inks have very different chemical reactions.
.......(for instance, the new Chalkbox colors are find in liquid clays, but they melt into a Flecto application)
....the Ancient Pages color lines do not react with any of the toppings I've used so far, nor does the Colorbox or Paintbox line. Sarajane

block-printing ink (Speedball ) can be used too. Jody B.(...aren't there two versions though? ...oil based and water based?)

oil paints are great to color liquid clays! Jody B. .... including metallic oil paints
.....oil paintswill give a more translucent result in liquid clay than using metallic powders (more opaque)
..Jody B's lesson on mixing liquid clay with oil paints, at sculpey.com...... I dip the end of a toothpick into the oil paint tube and that is all it takes to tint the TLS --a very small amount
.. ....always let the liquid clay settle first, and use a pin to get rid of the air bubbles
http://www.sculpey.com/sculpey401f.htm
...to mix, first grind (moosh?) some of the oil paint with the TLS on a tile with a palette knife separately, and then it will be easier to mix that into more TLS (..as opposed to trying to mix the paint directly into a bottle or jar of TLS.) Elizabeth
....if your oil paints are "runny," you may leach them by placing a dab on cardstock.... the excess liquid will leach out into the paper (then mix it with your liquid clay). Jody B.
...I have had trouble with a couple of oils in TLS never curing, or curing at least what I thought was cured and then became a little sticky again (not like most materials that make our clay sticky, but still just enough to make it less than perfect). Jeanne R.
....Joann's ETC store has sampler sets of oil paints for $8 - 12 .... 6-12 small tubes, but as Irene noted... they'll last just short of forever at the rate you need them for tinting TLS. I'm sure that you can find these samplers at any art supply and many craft supply stores that have fine arts sections. Wayyy less expensive than the Genesis line, and every bit as effective. Elizabeth
....Also those paint by number kits may be something to check out. Netta
....Even the Genesis paints come in a 6 color set.....about $15. All colors can be made with these. Tricia?
....Mitchells' lesson on antiquing some two-sided, molded clay beads by mixing a bit of oil paint (in several light or med colors) into white (opaque) Liquid Sculpey; they apply with a finger, then rub off the topmost areas with a paper towel
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,1789,HGTV_3238_1389622,00.html

shapes and swirls painted onto clay hearts with oil paints in liquid clay (and/or glittery or pigment inclusions), by artbymegan
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theartofmegan/sets/72157603798267827

Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and oils, etc.
...on clay, making clings, etc....pallette using pearlex powders and oil paints, thinned with diluent
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html

Genesis paints (heat set oils) are great (?) for coloring TLS also.
....I had a hard time getting the few pieces I tried to cure well.... I may have not got the temps exact. I think that Genesis needs to reach 250 degrees to cure, but the TLS needs higher temps. I noticed that if I went to 285 degrees (that is the temp that I use the most for polymer clay), then the colors changed. I need to test these some more. Here's a link to helpful info about Genesis
... they do say "Genesis® Artist colours are not intended to be mixed with other paints such as oils or acrylics, or with water. Other mediums have a very different chemistry than Genesis® Artist colours and results can be unpredictable." So maybe that is why I could not get the TLS and Genesis to cure. Jeanne R.
http://www.macphersoncrafts.com/HelpfulTips/GenesisArtistColours.htm

But I don't use Genesis paints with liquid clay when I need to do something more refined (than the effect with oil paints or powders like Pearlex plus liquid clay) ...these paints are much smoother and wonderful to work with.
... I prefer the TLS or LS for more textural effects. TLS has a graininess to it that isn't as good for painting unless you want to work with that and accent it as I've done when painting Paleolithic cave images on rock purses. You can make your TLS colors as dark or bold as you like by adding more color. It still doesn't take much to get a rich color. In the beginning when only opaque LS was available, it was hard to get a rich dark color because of the white pigment that was already mixed into it. With TLS it's no problem at all. Jody B.
...after I wet sanded my baked pieces and they started to dry, white (from the water) started to show????.
.......however, there might have been some acrylic paint or water left in the bristles of the brush (but I would have thought the brush should have been dry by the time I applied the TLS). ... I'll try again

for painting over and hiding small blemishes on my baked polymer snowmen, adding a white oil paint to liquid clay is helpful (very opaque).. Dianne C.

paste food colors. ...specifically, the Wilton colors that are in the little jars, which are oil-based (I know, because I use them for tinting white chocolate, and even a teensy bit of water will seize and ruin the chocolate)
....same guideline for these as to amounts- a VERY teensy bit is all that would be needed... for very small batches, I use the tip of a toothpick to put just a smidge in my whatever. Miracle
....I do know this works.... I use them for the base on my cameos where I tint LS, and apply to a Pearl Premo base cabochon, buffing between layers until I get the effect I want. Kellie
...I used too much paste and the sugar in the pastefood coloring burned in the oven, discoloring all my work!!! ...I think if I left it in there less time, it would have not burned as much!!! Mia
..I have even used liquid food colors, although they do not mix as well (nonetheless, they work). Kellie

(...for info on creating "paintings" with liquid clay pastes using a palette knives, etc., see Paints > "Paintings" ...)
(for mixing paints with liquid clays to drizzle, dot, or draw shapes onto beads or other surfaces, see below in "Piping")
(for marbelizing oil paints into liquid clays, see below in Faux Enamelling, Marbelizing)

Washes and Patinas
(see also Diluent-Softener --Using as a Finish, below)

"patina" --in the polymer world, this term seems to have come to refer to one of various surface effects which cause the surface to look softened, mellowed or marked as from age or from use ... the original background surface or color usually shows through in some way . . . either in certain areas, or through a translucent patina layer
. . . there are various ways to create patinas on polymer clay:
.......... liquid clays (with inclusions such as powders or oil paints) is one
...these can be stippled on with a brush, sponge, etc., or they can be painted on to cover all or just certain areas, applied then rubbed off to remain only in the crevices, etc.
...these can also be layered over each other, or used with other surface manipulations like transfers, stampings, sheets created in vairous ways, etc.

Add tiny amounts of oil paint (and Diluent, if necessary) to liquid clays... it doesn't take a lot. This will make the liquid clay somewhat thinner.

Mix powdered pigments or oil paints with LS and stipple them on the piece leaving some of the clay showing…My latest favorite patina uses LS and TLS.
....This is my pomegranate patina: On a base layer of clay (two parts copper,one part red) I stipple opaque LS tinted yellow with artist's powdered pigments. I set it with my heat gun and then dust bright gold Pearlex into a light coat of transparent LS. This just adds highlights,it isn't full coverage. It gets set with the heat gun. The last coat is a glaze of transparent LS tinted with alizarine oil paint. It gets a good bake in the oven and a coat of Flecto. Jody

You can make washes with oil paint & LS with turpentine or paint thinner, but be sure they are completely dry before putting them in the oven!

(....see more just above in Paints & Inks as well)

Solid Clay

A little bit of solid clay can be used to color liquid clay, or a little liquid clay can be used just to thin solid clay to different degrees.

Nora Jean's faux miniature foods made lifelike with liquid clay on top...(whipped cream, guacamole, peanut butter, jelly, gravy, frosting, chocolate sauce, and more)
http://www.norajean.com/Biz-Archive/food/TLSastries/Group-TLSastriesThms.htm
"I suggest a small ball (of clay), like half a spring pea worth of clay, and a drop of TLS to start.
....Take the side of a pallet knife or the side of your exacto knife razor and mash the pea of clay into that drop of TLS.
... I use a ceramic tile to do the mashing so I can scrape it up, fold it over and mash some more
....(liquid clay) will not (solid)) clay... you must mash it.
....if you want the consistency runnier, add another drop ...it you want it firmer add a sliver of clay, mash some more.
.... Just like mashed potatoes you have to work out the lumps yourself.
(If you wish to have lumps swimming in a clearer sauce or jelly, leave the lumps in . ) "
http://www.norajean.com/Food/Cinnibun/007.htm
http://www.norajean.com/Biz-Archive/food/Diner-Grp.htm

Betsy's lesson on mixing liquid clay and white clay, by mixing them very firmly on a ceramic tile until mix is smooth with a popscicle stick, then spreading with a toothpick (to create fluffy, stiffer, white icing ..or whipped cream)
(she feels Kato liquid clay mixes up the easiest)
http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/making-a-miniature-cake.html (photos 28-33)

Btw, when liquid clays are mixed into solid clays to condition them, the resulting clay seems to recondition faster
...and also wants to stick to itself rather than the tools.... I'm a very thorough mixer
....I also think that it buffs up easier and nicer, and I like the way the clay handles then.
....doesn't seem to change the color of other clay much at all (I've even put some in black Fimo and the change was barely noticeable.).

(see also Miniatures > Donuts,Icings,etc... Paints > Polymer Paintings)

Other colored inclusions

plain-old crayons can be used to get a nice translucent kind of tie-dye sunburst pattern
(see Suzanne's lesson on this below in "Films,Decals" .... melting crayon gratings into a film of liquid clay)

as a GLUE (& filler)

Liquid clay the best "glue" I've ever used with polymer clay. Dotty
... it creates the strongest bond... (Diluent-Softener will act similarly)

(for use as "decoupage glue," see just below in Decoupage)

However, be aware that liquid clay isn't thick and tacky like some other "glues"
....... so when using it as a glue, you will need to prop the pieces together especially while baking (ditto when using Diluent)
...I thicken some TLS by leaving it in an open shot glass... over time, it has become very thick so that the pieces I put together with it do not slide abou (I do not use either the liquid Kato or Fimo for this as both are too liquid). Valerie
...you can also apply a bit of cyanoacrylate ca glue (superglue) at the same time (here and there) to hold the pieces in place while the liquid clay cures.

.......for some uses though, propping wouldn’t be necessary...when gravity will hold them together, e.g., on flat, horizontal surfaces, e g.
...this lack of tackiness also mean that's using too much liquid clay when "gluing" isn't a good idea because it will allow the pieces to slide around while working on them
.......in that case, just apply the liquid clay here and there, etc
...... or use liquid clay and superglue each in a few places (not in the same spots) to hold the pieces together (even when raw clay involved)
.......(or) add a bit of raw clay to the liquid clay to help keep it from slipping around. Jody

If you have time, it's also a good idea to allow the liquid clay glue to absorb into the clay by lettting it sit awhile before baking (which will make an even stronger bond), but it's not necessary.

I make colored glue too by mixing oil paint into liquid clay. Dianne C.

Remember that "LS" (the old, original opaque liquid clay) will show up on clay if it seeps outside the joined area, whereas "TLS" (or other translucent liquid clays) shouldn’t ... though some brand may be a bit shinier than others, or shinier than the clay.

Raw to raw clay

I think that I would sandwich the clay (sheet) layers using a small amount of liquid clay between them (if you're not planning to cut into the stack later as for mokume gane)
...and then let the piece sit for several hours or more... the reason for waiting for a while after sandwiching and using the liquid clay is because the liquid clay will then leach into the layers and make a stronger bond (this advice was given to me by Marie Segal of The Clay Factory). Dotty
...however, when I returned about three days later (to the dots of TLS I'd put on the ladybugs to attach the black clay spots, but hadn't adhered them), and finished applying the dots and baked, there was a sort of whitish layer between the red bug and black spot --the TLS hadn't baked clear ... I tried re-baking those bugs (at a slightly higher temp) with no luck (...the ladybugs that had their black spots applied right away came out just fine). Teri
.......to fix the whitish areas for now, paint those areas with acrylic paint and a fine brush . . . after removing any oils, and/or sanding. Mavis & Lysle

Raw clay to Baked

I score (the baked side) a bit, rub in a little liquid clay, and then rub in a little raw clay....this gives the raw clay a nice surface to stick to. Jody

When I add new layers of clay, I use a light brushing of liquid clay on the baked surface just in the areas I want to apply the raw clay (since I'm presuming you won't be getting a mechanical grip...) .Sue

If you are trying to attach a piece of baked liquid clay such as a transfer decal ... rub the back of it with liquid clay and then press it into place.
....I have found that it's also a good idea to secure the edges of the baked liquid clay with some sort of frame since the decals have a tendancy to curl in rebaking though. Jody (see much more on this in Transfers > Liquid Clays)

Baked clay to Baked

I'd score both pieces if possible, rub in the liquid clay and a bit of raw clay and put them together. ...you'll probably want to be more generous with the TLS....the bit of raw clay rubbed into the TLS will help to keep it from slipping around. Jody B.

Painting or coating with liquid clay also makes a great protection (and glaze) of small pieces that might get knocked off with wear and tear . . . e.g. whiskers on my bunnies or cats, or flower stems/leaves in my mini baskets. Victoria

Another use when sculpting is to fill cracks and holes and broken off parts:.
.....to re-join (baked) pieces which have broken off... I re-bake the piece with TLS in the break, and it is stronger than it was to start with, I believe. .LynnDel
.... to repair cracks...if the cracks are very small, thin the TLS with Diluent and then rub it into the cracks (requires another baking, but it does work). Dawn
........to fill cracks, i simply dip my needle tool into the TLS container and drizzle, and work a tiny amount into the area i want to repair.... since it bakes almost clear (just a tiny bit cloudy), i usually don't color it. Sunni
...after dropping and shattering a piece, I first used superglue to glue all the pieces together (a couple were VERY tiny), then I spread TLS inside and out with my fingers, then baked. ...after curing, none of the cracks were visible, but the beautiful cane design was as clear as ever. LynnDel

Clay to other materials

Liquid clay works well also on metal wire, or (plastic coated) telephone wire when used as connectors in clay. ... holds great.Dotty.
....one of the wire findings I made is a curled piece that will be used to hold the a cord.... the wire has little "legs" that are inserted into the raw clay. If I put some liquid clay on the legs, they are in place for good, once baked..... How did we ever get along without this stuff? Dotty

liquid clay works great if you're inserting the metal finding into a raw clay item (lesson):
..put some liquid clay on the metal... (make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack" it in ...Bake... holds just great.

liqiuid clays can also be used on other materials like metal (Altoid tins, etc.), glass, plastic (like switch plates), terra cotta, etc., to more firmly attach clay sheets or clay pieces ...(see Covering for more info on each)

For the most secure attachment of a metal pin back to a clay pin, I first use the Slo-Zap (superglue) and set the pin-back in place
....then I make a small, thin strip of clay the same color as the back of the pin, and coat one side with liquid clay
... .I place this piece over the metal base of the pin back so that it laps over both top and bottom and onto the back clay piece....once baked, this really holds!! DottyCA

fabric

Liquid Sculpey works very well for bonding clay to fabric.
..... If the piece is too big, or you just don't want to put it in the oven, you can also use a heat gun to bake it. Jody

liquid clay does very well with draping.... jenny patterson uses it to make her fairy clothes to good effect.
...like dotty, i dilute the liquid clay first with sculpey diluent (fimo has a diluent out, too)
......saturate the cloth, squeegee off the excess with fingers... then arrange the fabric, and bake. Sunni

Emi Fukushima showed a technique on the Carol Duvall show for covering a piece of solid clay with fabric (..silk, cotton, rayon or any other type, but sheer fabric).
....(she had first textured a sheet of clay with lace --optional) ...then she attached the fabric to the sheet of clay with Sobo, or white, glue
....added a rope-trim frame to hide the fabric edges (she had textured and powdered/gilded the frame on the high spots)
... she baked in a 265-degree oven for 45 to 60 min
..."I first cut the fabric to the design and shape of my choice. ... then I apply sobo glue (you can use liquid sculpey too on the back of the fabric.... then lay the fabric on the clay and trim the excess clay from around the fabric." Emi
(Emi’s glued fabric pin lesson http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,,HGTV_3238_1371826,00.html)

squeegee your fabric with liquid clay on the wrong side... work on waxed paper or the coated side of freezer paper... the TLS will permeate the fabric & act like a glue
...let it rest and set up a bit ...it does seem to air dry
...(for fabric yoyo's ...then fold the edge of your circles up to the center... drape the individual yoyos (if you want them on draped) and stick them side to side on foil again draped on the dolls lap....bake the whole thing doll and yo yo's on a base ...slide out foil. faun
...(for embedding fabrics with liquid clay to use for clothing for sculpted figures, or for jewelry (bracelets, chokers, etc.), or in other ways with wearables, see Mixing Media > Fabric.... and Sculpting-Bodies/Tools > Fabric) (...and more on yoyo's on Quilting page)

I had success with (real, not synthetic) silk pongee (normally bleached and is sold to silk painters as scarves, etc., or in the fabric store) in liquid clay for creating wings ...- the added strength can be very handy in pieces likely to be used in more 'hostile' circumstances like childrens' toys or jewellery worn by younger people etc etc. Here's how I used it with liquid clay..... http://www.pcpolyzine.com/0206june/wings.html Alan
....the silk has lots of uses with clay - even as hinges between articulated pieces of jewellery or ornaments.

(as a clear) FINISH

If you are looking for a really nice matte finish for a baked clay piece or baked transfer, etc., TLS (Sculpey's liquid clay) can give you that.

Kato's liquid clay and perhaps Fimo's liquid clay will cure much clearer than TLS though, and give a glassy shine (both are also thinner than TLS)
... Kato liquid clay can also be carefully dripped or poured on to give a slightly dimensional top, and will become even clearer with extra heat
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/Layered_Dichroic_Effects.html
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/washi_paper_and_kato_clear_medium.html
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/A_New_Opal.html

Another way to get a a glossy finish is by sanding and buffing the baked liquid clay lightly (if it's not already clear)
... I use this method a lot when doing color photo transfers (where I use the Prisma Pencils for the color. The color & the black lines show up just fine through the liquid clay.)

TLS is especially nice for fairly flat pieces.
....the key is to first thin the liquid down with some Sculpey Diluent.....then brush it on
.....you can also try sponging a thin layer on instead of using a brush --test it first to see if you like this method though because it does make the matte texture more pronounced.
.....be sure and let it sit for t least an hour before baking so that it will flow some and be even across the piece (you shouldn't see any ripples aross the surface; if you do, the liquid is still too thick ...if it runs or pools, you can still clean it up) ....this will also let the clay absorb a bit of the plasticiser, as well as evaporate some
.......... I don't think you'd want to let extra TLS pool in any facial features tho because when it is baked in one thicker layer, it is far less transparent and you'll lose the detail
.....have your oven preheated.
.....bake.... right out of the oven the finish will be a nice, soft matte. Jody

if you are putting a coat of liquid clay to seal a transfer, powder, leaf, etc., you usually won't need to thin it at all. Jody ??
.....If you want a glossy surface, apply the TLS thickly enough to that it flows together ...and do not add diluent because thinning with diluent leaves a powdery matte surface (LS manuf's, via Emily)... will TLS ever really be glossy though, without sanding/buffin??

(for making layers of liquid clay with stampings, or other things in between the layers, see Gen Info above.

(for liquid clay-covered labels, see bottom of page under "MISC for all Liquid Clays")

(recommended by someone to cover fingerprints) ...I just pulled angel out of the oven and she has the most beautiful skin because of TLS . Not only did the TLS produce a smooth and matte and almost a flat finish, it was applied over a painted sculpture (eyebrows, thinted skin, etc). I thinned the TLS with Diluent and cleaned my brush with alcohol, and painted the thinnest of layers over the fleshy parts of my sculpture. I baked it at 275 degrees for twenty minutes and she did just fine. The layer was so thin that higher, recommended temps weren't necessary.
This is an addendum to the previous message I posted: Although the finish was matte, there were some rough spots where the TLS had flowed due to heat and gravity. These imperfections, visible only under magnificaton, proved difficult to deal with. TLS is very hard, difficult to sand. In fact, I actually did some damage to my sculpture trying to deal with this. Still, I intend to explore the possibilities this technique presents more fully. Katherine Dewey

I also used it as a finish on paper.....What I did so far was make a plain (tube?) bead of polymer clay, bake it, and then glue a piece of beautiful orgami paper to it and put a fancy end on each end of the bead and bake it again. Then I put a coat of liquid sculpy over the paper, baked, put another coat, baked. Then I lightly sanded with 1500 grit and buffed. It was a beautiful oriental bead! All of the colors of the orgami paper showed through but they looked like "enamel" . . . Diana Gaedig (or over fabric??)

(...for info on tinting and using as an antiquing or glazing medium, see below in Inclusions)

STRENGTHENER ...+ Decoupage, Layers

Liquid clays can be used on one surface of regular polymer clay or other materials such as paper, or on both surfaces front and back (more like decoupage) either to strengthen or to encase.

Lynn K's lesson on decoupaging shapes of origami paper with liquid clay (then applying it onto a sheet of flat clay ...trimmed... baked) for a pin
....(she used the Translucent Liquid Sculpey brand of liquid clay which isn't usually as clear, so to make the final finish a little shinier and brighter she also applied a layer of clear finish --Varathane, Future, etc-- on top after baking)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_JapTLSDecoupage.htm
Donna Kato's lesson on encasing washi paper in Kato liquid clay then applying to white clay
..... she says that washi paper inks are solvent-based so some (esp. reds) can bleed when contacted with liquid clay if the ink side is not first sealed with a light coating of acrylic medium (she uses a gloss acrylic medium--could probably also use thinned permanent white glue as when using resin, or Varathane/Future)
.....she then "laminates" (encases) the coated paper with liquid clay, one side at a time, heating with a heat gun (till liquid clay turns clear) each time to cure it
.....cuts a shape from the laminated paper and rolls down onto white clay (since some papers may become translucent when in tontact with liquid clay --though shouldn't if sealed on both sides first?)
... (optional second layer) she also adds a laminated strip of washi paper on the liquid clay layer (using a bit of superglue underneath if it doesn't stick well), then uses a light coat of liquid clay and later a thicker coat (curing each with heat gun)... repeats for another strip
... uses scissors to trim off excess liquid clay
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/washi_paper_and_kato_clear_medium.html
....Dotty's freestanding fan -- liquid clay over origami paper for both strengthening and holding the shape (website gone)
....Eberhard Faber's lesson on making cone shape (cardstock or?) heavy paper sleeves (with images on surface "decoupaged" both sides with liqud clay), into which a small bulb from a string of lights is placed
http://tinyurl.com/aw7cf
...You can make flowers out of tissue paper, and then give them a thin coating of Liquid Sculpey
...You can form items out of paper (such as a trash can) and paint it with Liquid Sculpey...after baking, paint and decorate. Ellen
see more on using liquid clays, and white glues, with paper in Mixing Media > Paper)

This stuff is strong! I can make a clay vessel with thinner walls ...If I glaze the inside with two coats of liquid clay, after baking it becomes rigid and won't flex but is still very strong
. . . I also coat the inside of vases so they will be sure and hold water ..Jody B.: .

To strengthen (an already baked piece of Sculpey III), I would definitely use Translucent Liquid Sculpey brushed onto both sides... if necessary, then suspend the leaves on a stiff wire supported by a couple of wooden spring type clothespins which have a scrap clay base. I use this devise quite often when I want to bake something so it won't have flat spots or I've coated it with TLS. Patty B.

Lynda even used TLS over just the curly beards of her Santas which used the weak original-white-Sculpey-in-the-box clay, and made it very strong.

I "wonder if TLS would work like the glue does (when covering things)?"…i just received some goose eggs and decided to experiment on the single broken one! so i smeared 1/2 of the goose egg with TLS and baked it. when it cooled, i covered the baked TLS with some junk cane. Then i smeared TLS on the uncovered half and, unbaked, covered the still wet TLS with the rest of the junk cane. then i baked it. now here's the amazing part. the junk cane had no bubbles (that i could tell) and both the prebaked and unbaked halves of TLS worked like a charm. so - in future, i can elimate the prebaking and go straight to smearing on TLS and decorating the clean egg!! wow!! i'm so tickled!!! Sunni

…A while back I mentioned a source for (tiny) reflective glass balls (also called "Magic Marbles" at Michaels?) and I have tried to press them into clay with less than satisfactory results- too many would flick off. Well, sticking them down with a thin layer of liquid sculpey did the trick. Jody

I often use a glass vase as a starting point and remove the clay. I'm always adding more layers so I cover the glass with a sheet of scrap clay, bake it and cut into halves while it is warm. I let it cool before removing the clay. I use super glue to put the form back together and glaze the inside with LS. To rebake it, I nest it in a polyfil lined bowl. The LS glaze makes it very strong and saves me sanding inside. From there I add the rest of the decorative layers, being sure to support the form as needed. Jody

Porosity of polymer clay with water contained in vessels, etc.:
(....for vessels of plain clay, you'll see minor seepage between 2 and 3 days; but we're talking truly minor. . .)
....however, if you seal the inside of the pc with Liquid Sculpey - it was watertight for at least the 5 days I tested (provided, of course, your joins are good and tight, no holes or pockets.) pokopat
(...Premo alone holds water for at least 20 days ...that's when I finally knocked over my vessel so I can't tell about longer)...but with Kato (liquid clay) I have had no apparent change for over a month so far...docsarah
....However, PC is porous enough that perfume oils will soak into the surface. Sarajane

(see just above for strengthening fabric)

Plants & Flowers, etc.... (decoupage... dipping)

Karen P's lesson on using TLS as a decoupage medium
. . . here she shows how to decoupage pressed (flattened, dried) fern leaves and other leaves onto a baked clay backing (first using as an adhesive on the backs, then brush-covering the fronts, before baking again.. ) . . . can also used your own dried flowers, etc.,
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_FlowerScroll.htm
Claudia's scenes and still lifes made with dried leaves, ferns, etc..... could be decoupaged too
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4251925&a=31475605&f=

(SORT OF DECOUPAGE)
...(use lesson below, then...) when it's completely covered, I place it on the surface of my creation
...if your clay creation is unbaked, cook the whole thing at the recommended temperature and time.
However, I prefer to apply dipweeds to baked clay.
...in that case, I jack the oven temp up to 300 degrees and bake it for a mere 10 minutes.
...... I noticed the TLS continued to flow with gravity and had a little pool of it around the bottom of the bottle (I just shaved that off).... aAs long as the plant holds, I don't worry!!
...I attached some dried grass seed stems onto the front of a small clay-covered bottle, and rebaked it ...worked fine....the grass toasted just a tiny bit giving it a more delightful golden color. sunni
http://sunnisan.com/crafts/lindaswap.html

I dipped some dried flowers in TLS, let it drip down/off as much as it was going to, then baked it....turned out ok, not perfect because in lots of places the TLS was too thick and milky-colored. Kelly
.......so instead, use either Kato or Fimo liquid clay because they're clearer?
.......or brush off excess liquid clay so it's thinner?

i've found you can dip or brush a thin coat of TLS onto dried (or some fresh) plant material, and bake at 300 degrees fahrenheit (149 celsius) for 10-15 min
...that will strengthen the plant (leaves, etc.) so you can make everlasting bouquets or whatever.
...these can be touched with reasonable impunity... and will last as long as the person cares for them ..sunni

sunni's lesson on strengthening with TLS: http://www.sunnisan.com/crafts/experment.html
....I learned that the thinner the TLS, the better it handles so I thin the TLS a lot - almost as thin as milk.... undiluted TLS is also bubbly.
(by the way, Sculpey's Diluent is the only thinner I know of that works with the TLS brand of liquid clay).
........I used to literally dip them, but found that fills the TLS with impurities (seeds, bits of leaves, stems, etc.).
...so now, I put some of the TLS into a 1oz bottle, and then add a generous amount of Diluent into it (till it's almost as thin as milk)
...I use an eyedropper to stir & test the viscosity
...then I put a saucer down on the table
...using the eyedropper, I saturate the weed with TLS while holding it over the saucer (i'll save the excess) ...let drain ...sunni

...for TLS-strengthened items that will stand alone, just pinch or blot off as much TLS as possible with a tissue, and/or dab with brush, before baking... Sunni

I tried it with dried roses, they came out GREAT ...they just look like shiny dried roses, but are much stronger than they were pre-TLS. Barbara

sunni's lesson on dipping/painting fresh flowers, etc. with TLS
...she found that fresh flowers have enough water content to be a problem... the petals will shrivel somewhat, and get a bit crusty on the edges?
....also, the liquid clay will flow downward and pool on the back side of the flower
...If you choose to cover flowers, go with those that have firm petals (like roses). . . .I tried to dip a dandelion and the petals are too delicate to dip. sunni
http://www.sunnisan.com/crafts/07/rose01f.jpg (fresh rose petals compared to TLS-ed rose bud)
http://www.sunnisan.com/crafts/07/rose01d.jpg (fresh cyclamen from the back, showing pooling)

I baked a (fresh or dried?) TLS-covered rose in an upright position --as if it were in a vase-- so that any excess would flow down the stem that worked really well.
....later I took a Q-tip dipped in gold pearl powder (and Future?) and coated the rose with it- I like the effect of that. Miracle

green stalks... seed heads
....i even dipped some green grass stalks with seedheads, and months later it's still green. sunni

...for more on using dried flowers, plants, etc.... and also info on the unit for pressing and drying flowers & leaves, etc., in a microwave (called a Microfleur)... see Mixing Media > "Dried flowers & Plants" )

Suzanne dipped a turkey neck bone in liquid clay for a necklace component
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=279317&uid=149408
....sunni also dipped flies in TLS ! http://www.sunnisan.com/crafts/experment.html

(see also dipping with Varathane in Finishes)
acrylic paint mixed in will LS will cause it to bubble/become puffy... use oil paints or Pearl Ex, etc., instead (see above in Inclusions)

COPIED FROM HERE TO ACRYLIC MEDIUMS FOR SORTING

FLAT

FILMS & DECALS
(not used as transfers ... for transfer. decals, see next category)

clings (also cutout & punched) ... and inclusions in the layers

Basic Info

Flat films of liquid clay can be created by baking thin sheets of liquid clay on a smooth surface so they can be peeled off after baking
...these decals can have inclusions put in them (metallic powders, glitters, shavings of crayon, etc)... even wire
...they can have metallic leaf or foils attached to them to make "metallic sheets"
...they can be cut into shapes, or layered, or used as "coverings" on other clay, or as embellishments
...they will stick temporarily to other smooth surfaces like window glass (to make window "clings")

Kato and Fimo brands of liquid clay are clearer than TLS (Translucent Liquid Sculpey), so will make the clearest decals (esp. if heated to a higher temp)
...however, if the old original "LS" is used (which is an opaque liquid clay), then decals won't be translucent
......the clear liquid clays can be made opaque if desired by adding a bit of titanium white oil paint to them, then tint as usual

After baking, decal sheets made of liquid clay are very flexible
... also tough (if baked correctly and not extremely thin)

These films can be used in various ways... for example:
... to cling to slick surfaces such as glass windows as "clings"...(if using translucent liquid clays, these can also be turned into "faux stained glass"-- with "leading" or without)
......Jean S's "stained glass" fish cling using Kato liq.clay http://www.pbase.com/stargazer/image/2652428
......"liquid lace" can be made with drizzles of liquid clays on glass, then applied to other surfaces or to more clay (see Drizzling > Other)
...as a translucent covering for items such as votives ...or for light shields, etc
...to "cover" other polymer clay (beads, boxes, etc.) .. some glue may be necessary, i.e., (unbaked) liquid clay (when used as a "transfer" or onlays, etc.)... will flex in one direction at one time only though
...can be glued onto most non-polymer surfaces as well (paper, painted surfaces, metal, etc., just like any other embellishment using liquid clay or an appropriate glue --clear glue, if necessary)
...as bits which are held in cells of clay or other materials (faux cloisonne, etc.)
.........I used mine as decal 'tiles' to decorate boxes . Ruth
...as freestanding clear or translucent wings, or other accessories

freestanding cured liquid clay films + inclusions
made on glass (or tiles) & on baked clay

"clings" ---for windows in particular
..Geo's lesson on window decals - clings …..Well it's really easy.
... I poured the TLS out onto a smooth tile (glass will work too), and sorta brushed it out till it became a thin sheet.
...I then sprinkled various things on it
........Pearl-Ex powder ( the sparkley pearl one,micro?), finely chopped Pearl crayons, (sometimes I wait till near the end of the baking and add more crayon if I don't want the pitting), maybe some glitter (holographic looks great)
.... I then baked for 20 mins. at 300 or a little under.
.....After it cools, I peel it off ....or I sometimes peel it off the tile when warm.
.... I then made a template of a star and cut shapes out with scissors.
....Then you just stick 'em on the window (slick side to window of course) and enjoy!

If you trouble with a finished cling not wanting to stick to a window:
...make sure the slick side of the cling is next to the window
......one side, or both, should be shiny smooth. Valerie
...clean the shiny side with alcohol ...there should be no oils or any thing between the plastic of the cling and the glass of the window. Valerie
...or to degrease, wash the cling in a dilute detergent solution (like dish liquid)...then short soak in quite hot water that's very clean. Alan
.......while they're still hot and wet, attach them to the cleaned glass surface where you want them. It isn't sticking by static--- it's more an attraction of surfaces, which can be upset by some surfactant chemicals like soaps or emulsifiers. Alan
...sometimes it also helps if the glass of the window is not too cold. Valerie

I used "real metal powders" (the Eberhard Faber brand) to color my liquid clay (instead of Pearl Ex). Geo

melting plain-old crayon gratings into liquid clay can achieve a nice translucent kind of tie-dye sunburst pattern
...lesson: squirt a small pool of liquid clay onto a piece of baking parchment (or alum foil or glass, etc.?) which is on a bakable surface
.....grate a sprinkling of crayon crumbs of each color onto your pool, using a fine-textured cheese grater
.....cover with another sheet of baking parchment (or with alum. foil?)
.....use a medium-hot clothes iron (no steam) on the top sheet for just 10 seconds or so to melt the crayons and set the liquid clay.
.....bake right on the parchment ....peel it off after cooling ...cut it to shape, and/or sand and buff? Suzanne I.
..Geo. used pearl colored crayons, finely chopped
(clings can also have the marbelized-dragged patterns created in them described just below in "Marbelized'Dragged")

I used Grumbacher pastels --intense artist colors-- for my dragged, combed colors
.. I just shaved a bit off, then dumped it in with my liquid clay
...the dragging was was fun and easy... nae

lesson on using glitter (white holographic?-- needs to be heat-resistant type for rubberstamping or fabric probably) mixed into liquid clay to make freeform ghost clings (on a tile)
...squeeze liquid clay onto tile in solid ghost shape... bake 275 for 5 min, and remove
...add features on baked liquid clay with flat-ish raw clay pieces: eyes --2 tiny turquoise clay balls flattened and touching, 2 smaller balls of white pressed onto turq, even smaller black balls on white), --eyebrows (elongated triangles or rectangles, placed at angles) --and mouth (round or oval black disc, or no mouth)... "glue" each of the features with small dots of liquid clay ... bake another 20 min.
...let cool ... then peel off tile ....(can use on slick surfaces or on porous ones for cards, etc.)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_LiquidSculpeyGhost.htm
...I poured just straight Kato liquid clay on a tile, and put a toothpick tip worth of the purple mix (oil paint, or oil paint with Pearl Ex?) on it for eyes ...and voila, a 'ghost' . It was very flexible after baking. Ruth

adding wire .....Wendy's lesson on making multiple-component wings held together with liquid clay between them, forming 3-sided cells ...each component is a S-shaped 20 ga. wire (strung with seed beads & ending with 1 larger bead)... Pearl Ex added to back side after baking... she also may use floral wire instead of beading regular wires
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/2004october/wings.html
... Apryl's lesson on clear wings composed of liquid clay between wire "veins" (cells open at ends)... using 20 g wire over a pattern under glass sheet
http://www.heartofgold.org/gallery/tutes.html
.......I've been experimenting with fimo gel and I found that though you can bake it more than once, if there is wire in it, you'll have to support it, otherwise the wire might stretch and break the baked fimo gel.... the best way to avoid this was to combine the baked fimo with translucent fimo soft (or probably any translucent would work). That way the ends are still flexible, but the baked gel portion is supported in an upright position.

Jenny (in Australia) impressed and textured her liquid clay (which was on a tile) with cutters...baked ... added Pearl Ex
(...2 examples, using Liquid Modelene) http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/jdesigns/HTML/ClayGallery.htm
... and/or she doodled with a skewer ...then baked ....and using mica powders on top

(for "liquid lace" made on glass, then used elsewhere, see Drizzling > Other)

I think the pebbly look you're referring to is the look of the crackled silver leaf behind the transfer. I took the idea from Gwen Gibson's "Faux Enamel" look and I really like it with the TLS. It shows through beautifully and makes the colors of the colored pencils really vibrant, I think. Julia

(for problems with bubbles appearing in the liquid clay, see below in Air Bubbles)

paper punches & cutting shapes

Metallic foils and composition can be made into flexible metallic decal sheets which can be used in various ways.

LEAF
...brush a very thin layer of liquid clay on a sheet of glass
....... cover the liquid clay with a sheet of composition metallic leaf
........then add another layer of liquid clay .... bake...and peel off
........the baked metallic sheet can then can be cut with paper punches and scissors, etc. Donna Kato
...apply a thin coat of liquid clay on a glass sheet ....lay a sheet of metallic leaf on it (brush out any bubbles or unevenness with soft brush or tissue)...then bake ...(as is, or cut or punch into other shapes)
........ the leaf doesn't need sealing.... it sticks just fine.
...Danielle's lesson shows this process, but she adds a coat of liquid clay on the other side of the foil too (and uses TLS and a thick coating which wouldn't be as clear as Kato or Fimo liquid clays or using a thinner coat)
http://tutorials.theclaystore.com/coverables/metallic-laminate

FOIL
Metallic foils can be transferred onto liquid clay to make flexible decals of foil
...I put some liquid clay (Fimo Gel) on a tile and spread it a bit, then took a strip of Jones Tones foil (green) and laid it on top, colour side up. Then it was baked and left to completely cool (waited overnight til this morning to see what happened). This morning I found the color had changed though...the bright green seemed to have gone more blue than green - interesting looking....have no idea what will happen with other colours...
..... when I peeled off the top of the foil, it came off cleanly and in one piece with an absolutely complete transfer of the foil.
......Fimo Gel it's on is very flexible ... could easily be cut up so it should be interesting to see if it could be wrapped around things with the JT. Lots of interesting possiblities. Shelley M.
...Donna Kato's lesson on making a metallic decal sheet with Kato liquid clay and Jones Tones foil (colored side down) to cut up and use for layered faux dichroic glass
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/iWeb/Site/Layered%20Dichroic%20Effects.html
(see more on metallic decals made with foils, in Leaf & Foils > Foils > Uses & Techniques)

Could also spread some already-colored liquid clay REALLY thin on a baking tile
........after it bakes and cools, carefully peel it off
....then just go crazy cutting out shapes with your paper punches. Pamela

To inset a punched-out shape into raw clay
... I took a round raw bead and carefully put the cut out shape on it, making certain no air bubbles were trapped... then and gently rolled it around a bit, making sure it was stuck on the bead fairly securely....then I baked the bead, let it cool and glazed it. Pamela

to create a collage with sheet from either method, cut it into pieces, and press them into a sheet of background clay ......trim background clay to desired shape... bake as normal
...the larger effect is from taking these marbelized clay pieces and using them to create a mosaic. Jayne
http://www.jayzor.com/images/ebay/blue_mum.jpg -- gone... but look around new site http://www.jayzor.com

marbelized -combed- dragged-fingerpainted patterns
of liquid clay

(can be freestanding, or used as clings, or created on clay)

Alan V's clings of individual items ....a flower, leaf, butterfly, etc.
http://groups.msn.com/ALANV/canework.msnw?Page=1
sunni's butterfly clings made with oil paint in liquid clay, surrounded with black clay ropes
http://sunnisan.com/crafts/aussie1.html
Sarah Lajoie's fairie/butterfly wings (made with TLS?) http://www.users.qwest.net/~lajoie/minitiles/fairies1.htm (gone)
Kim's butterfly clings with chalks in TLS (website gone) ... check at beadyeyedbrat.com?
Kimba's abstract clings Kimba's abstract clings (website gone)
--made with oil paints swirled into LS (both thinned with Diluent), plus glitters or Pearl-Ex, mylar shapes, etc.

on glass or a smooth tile
..clean the glass sheet with rubbing alcohol
..prepare marbling colors:
....mix Pearl Ex powder into small amount of liqiud clay .. thin with Diluent-Softener until consistency of heavy cream
...use wooden stick to carefully drop variety of liquid clay colors onto the glass (she does this in rows of color)
...rake through the colors using wooden stick, needle tool or comb
......if the colors are transparent, add gold leaf (where?) to give depth
...bake clay on glass (reg. temp, about 30 min)

I painted opaque LS on a smooth tile
... then painted in some lines of tinted LS ...and pulled a needle tool through them
....I let it sit for a minute to level out, then baked it.
...this gave me a final sheet which was very bright and matte on (the non-glass) side, and muted-color and very shiny on the (glass) side.
....It's very flexible and semi-translucent. It's pretty darned cool, all in all. Julia

Nan Roche's marbling of liquid clays on water and on glass (with LS & TLS + powders) (for brooch) -- lesson
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_antique_jewelry/article/0,1801,HGTV_3088_1378529,00.html

on water ......... (result looks sort of nubbly-grainy and not very contrasting? in the enlarged photo example)
...fill a tray or basin about 1" deep with water
..prepare marbling colors: mix Pearl Ex powder into small amount of liqiud clay .. thin with Diluent-Softener until consistency of heavy cream.
...use wooden stick to carefully drop variety of liquid clay colors onto the water's surface
...rake through the colors using wooden stick, needle tool or comb, to create a pattern
To pick up colors from water... either :
....create a very thin sheet of raw clay (# 6) in a contrasting color ....carefully lay the sheet on top of the water
......then pick up sheet, trying not to smudge the colors... dry ...bake (normal temp. for around 30 min)
OR .... can dip a bead in it the water to pick up the marbled colors ...dry... bake
...clean the extra pigment from the surface of the water bath, using a paper towel

I dipped a bead in the water , but mine was tricky to bake ... I didn't want to suspend it cuz it was kind of odd shaped and big, so I tried baking on polyfill and flipped it over after 10-15 mins and it worked out fine. (I didn't want to bake it on paper because I thought that would really stick). Geo
...texturize the clay first, then dip... that might help get the colors on the water dark enough .... maybe the Pearl-ex I have isn't dark enough, or I'm not using enough. . . .Alicia
........I used some oil paint to darken up a color. Geo

on clay
Jody's lesson
....first prebake a clay shape
....paint a layer of plain TLS on it
....then drop or paint dots and lines of translucent liquid clay mixed with Pearl Ex into it.
....pull a pin or skewer through the colored dots and lines to make a design.
.......tip for making dots: when you lift the brush or ball tool from the dot, lift straight up and slowly ...the TLS will make a thread, then break & fall back into the dot
.......(if you don't like the design, you can just wipe it off and try again).
....once you've got your colors mixed and a batch of baked shapes ready , it can be a very restful evening project for those times when you don't have the energy to start something big.) ...the directions for butterflies made this way were in Jewelry Crafts last summer. Jody

Donna's dragged marbelized liquid clay on clay bezel shapes.......using oil paints and mica powders thinned with Diluent as colors
..for many, she created a well to contain a shallow pool of liquid clay by flattening a ball of reg. clay leaving a small rim around the edge... for some, a base of liquid clay was used?... for others, various colors were dropped in, then a pin drawn through ...one used gold clay as a base, one used translucent clay as base ...bake 300, 20 min.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html

try fingerpainting with various colors of liquid clay (esp. for kids?)
...either use fingers (maybe wearing a latex glove or one or more little "finger cots")
...or use various tools like ball tipped tools, a pencil eraser, etc.

To create a tie-dye effect, create concentric circles in the colors, etc.

I just started playing with the idea of marbling things with TLS mixed with various PearlEx powders.
....I was going with Nan Roche's marbling instructions from her video, but I have one serious problem
- my drops of TLS don't spread out. I've thinned one of my colors so much I think it's have diluent! I even tried warming the water slightly (about 85-90 degrees F). For a second or two I thought that was going to help, but no luck - and of course the water cools off fairly quickly anyway. Sue
....Sue, do your drops fall through the water, or do they stay suspended? Could you have used too much Pearl-ex, which binds to the clay? Just a thought...some of my TLS drops failed to disperse, as well, but not all! Deb
...My drops do stay suspended (except the ones that accidentally released too high off the water, of course) - I could probably get some really cool eye beads with them if I was careful. I did use quite a bit of the PearlEx, so I'll try thinning that out with more TLS. Sue

you can also use liquid clay in a spin art machine ...(on piece of clay?) to get interesting patterns
...Jeanne R's spin art clay postcaards... I do thin the liquid clay with Sculpey Diluent after mixing the color that I want)
http://artfortheheart.blogspot.com/2005/08/polyclay-spinart-postcards.html
......for a little different look, use canned air (compressed air)

Btw, sheets of dried, patterned acrylic paint (which have been diluted with water), can also be created in interesting patterns
...they could be dragged or combed on clay, or made on a removable surface (like glass or freezer paper or silicone sheet) then attached to clay or used for other surface (see Paints > Acrylics > Other Uses)

(...for more ways to create swirly stuff on clay, mostly taken from water or soap techniques used for paper, see Misc > Marbling)

(dragged line patterns can also be created with regular colored solid clays ... for those, see Sheets > Marbeled-Dragged lines)

(for more on adding metallic powders to liquid clay , drizzling, etc, see above in Drizzling and Inclusions .)
(for more re laminating, decoupaging, or incorporating paper into/onto clay with liquid clay, see in Mixing Media > Paper, & Stamps also

Image TRANSFER. DECALS

(see also above under "General Information," and on the Transfers page for lots more info --some overlap here)

General

Liquid clays are a superb transfer medium for creating an image directly onto solid clay
(......or for transferring some images directly to fabric or other bakable surfaces)
... OR for creating a very thin, flexible decal (with a translucent/transparent background), which can be attached later to raw or baked clay (or glued to any other surface)

Direct transfers and decal transfers can be created in various ways.

...only certain types of papers and/or inks/colorants used on the original images will work well for these transfers (...see Transfers for those)
...liquid clays can be baked at temps up to 325 degrees (and 300 is often recommended by the manufacturers, except for Kato's liquid clay which cures well even at 275) ...generally, the hotter the temp, the clearer the cured liquid clay will be... however, if making a direct transfer onto clay, the temp should probably be only 275 and then maybe be spiked to 300 for just a few minutes at the end... if re-baking with regular clay or decal, probably best to keep to the normal baking temp.

CLEARNESS ...Kato and Fimo liquid clays tend to be slightly clearer than the Sculpey brand (Translucent Liquid Sculpey)
...the hotter the baking, and the thinner the layer of liquid clay, the clearer the result
...the liquid clay itself can be too thick to become really clear...in that case, thin it with Diluent-Softener…the baked liquid clay will become rubberier the more diluent you mix in to thin it out.( Diluent baked all by itself is very rubbery).
...btw, any translcuent liquid clay can be made opaque by adding a bit of titanium white oil paint (color can then be addded with oil paints & other materials)
...if the baked liquid clay is too cloudy... try sanding it (then buffing)

SANDING...the surface of baked liquid clay is harder than regular clay... this causes it to be somewhat more difficult to sand
.......a layer of baked liquid clay is fairly difficult to sand completely through, however, even if it's thin
...when buffing, that hardness also allowed me to press fairly hard with my dremel to get a high shine (instead of eaten clay)
......TLS and Fimo Gel naturally have a matte finish ........Kato liquid clay has a somewhat shiny finish (unless sanded)

There are two ways air bubbles form in theliquid clay
.....one is from the method used in pressing the transfer down into the liquid -- I start from the center of the transfer and GENTLY press in a circular pattern outward toward the edges of the transfer (if you press too hard in one area than another though, you can trap an air bubble into place) Need2Bead
......you can also "squeegee" the bubbles out... either squeegee the liquid clay over the paper image using a credit card ...I have also squeegeed then baked, and then applied another layer by squeegeeing and baked, alternating until I get the thickness I want for my decal or whatever it ends up being
Meredith

as DECAL:
Apply a thin coat of liquid clay to a sheet of glass (you can wait a few minutes for it to level out if you want)
.....put your printed image face down into the liquid clay (leaving a corner to fold up as a pull-tab if you want)....check the underside of the glass to be sure there are no trapped air bubbles and press them outward to the sides if you see any
....bake the glass (or ceramic tile) with the paper image for 10-15 min. at 300 degrees
(...the side of the decal which was touching the glass while baking, will be shiny after baking because the glass is very smooth)
....peel the paper off the baked decal (may come off easily, especially if the image was from glossy magazine paper... but if it doesn't , peel off paper-and-decal then soak them for a while...hints on removing paper in Transfers)
.....OR (no glass)...you can coat the paper image with a thin layer of TLS... bake at 275 (or 300) in a pre-heated oven for 10 min., and peel off the paper (or soak)
......again, the thinner the liquid clay, the clearer the cured decal... so apply as thinly as possible (even if more than one coat) by squeegeeing it with the side of a credit card, a foam cosmetic sponge, etc.... may help to let sit awhile too to self-level

Don’t worry if the baked image is a little pale . . .the color will deepen when it's backed with clay or placed on another light-colored surface. .

How to attach the LS transfer decal to a slab of regular clay after transferring??
. . . it's just pressed on to raw clay... or better, a thin coat of liquid clay or Diluent is added as a bonding agent to raw or bakied clay (...the item must then be rebaked to cure either one). Jody

If using one of the translucent liquid clays (Translucent Liquid Sculpey/LS or Fimo Liquid Gel, or Kato Clear Polymer Medium), the image on the decal can be seen from both sides
...either side of the decal can be used, but if the image side is up it will need to be sealed... if the image side is down, the image will be viewed through the liquid clay decal and can be paler if the decal isn't very thin.
...the decal image will be reversed if it's used right side (image side) up... that can be corrected if the original image is reversed in the computer before printing it, or if it's printed onto a sheet of acetate and the photocopy is made from that (or if the decal is use with the "wrong side" up)
....however, if you use an opaque liquid clay (the original "Liquid Sculpey" is white, and there are also some Colored Liquid Sculpeys), the image can be seen from only one side and will also be reversed (unless the original image can be printed reversed)..
......the opaque L.S. is best for color transfers where you want the entire image and it's background, to transfer???. . . .
.....so if you use the opaque LS with a black & white image, but you want a color of clay to show through, it won't work -- it will transfer the image, but also gives an unpleasant white background which covers the clay layer. ...this effect is still okay, unless you want the clay layer to show through in which case you should use the TLS—Dori

DIRECT to CLAY
...images can be applied directly to clay as well as making a decal... apply liquid clay on raw clay, then press the paper image face down into it... burnish/squeegee well ... bake ... remove paper (much more in Transfers)
...temporary "tattoos"can also be purchased and used . . . I just put them on the clay the same way you'd put one on your skin. You can do it on raw or baked clay. Then cover with a couple of layers of TLS. I have sometimes had them crackle a bit but I liked the effect! Jody B.
....some got a little cracked, like a crackle finish, but it only added to the quality and made them look antique. To make sure they adhered, I added just a thin, thin coating of liquid sculpey and then put the tattoo over that. Sometimes now when transferring I will wrap the item or cover it in wrinkled tin foil and it makes small indentations in the clay that make it look aged. That also keeps the tattoo in place and in close contact with the clay. Doesn't take long to transfer. Kathy
Ria's black dragon tatoo (website gone)

Since there are various types of copies which can work well with transfers, various types of media to use, and different printers/copiers, it can be really confusing.
From what I remember, these combos work well ... though there are more on the Transfers page):
--b & w prints from a copier
--color prints must be from an ink jet printer, but will only transfer to special papers ("t-shirt transfer paper"), or some other slick papers; the resulting image must then be transferred again to LS) . . . except laser printers and copiers, and thermal FAX?
--color images from magazines with high-quality slick paper... (covers may not work though)
--colored pencils (by themselves or on photocopies) ...or oil pastel or crayon drawing…Jody
--(newsprint and/or color comics) DB

Liquid clays work GREAT with computer-based images printed on special coated papers from your printer (720 dpi or better)
....with the inkjet… photo-quality 1440 dpi paper works (matte only?), also. You just have to put a layer of Liquid Transparent Sculpey on the clay before you put the paper/design face down. Then after baking, soak the item and lightly scrub the paper off instead of trying to lift it. kelk kk <telma..
...see more on this method in Transfers > Liquid Clay... including this lesson using matte photo quality paper and an embossing gun:
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399755,00.html
....It might have something to do with the kind of of coated paper you use, but when I tried this with Epson High Quality Ink Jet (matte?) paper, the white clay background transfered onto the TLS. The white wasn't as opaque as regular LS, but still no good for GG's faux enamel technique.
Photocopies which are colored with pencils work really well, though.
....Thermal INKs (laser) on plain paper is still the cheapest. Lysle
Well SURE it is lysle, if you actually have access to a laser printer.....BUT, for those of us who arent so lucky :) we have thermal fax and we can print in color too....

One thing I found while experimenting in a recent workshop with Diane Falkenhagen is that you can use LS to layer images onto clay.
...I transferred one image to solid clay first (in most cases) and baked it, then used the LS to transfer additional images to the clay, yielding some very interesting collage -type images. (I rebaked, adding layers, the same piece at least 4 times with no apparent problems). . . I am eager to investigate this process further and clarify for myself which images/paper types (color copies vs. slick magazine pics, etc.) will transfer best with which types of clay (solid vs. LS; Flex vs. Glow in the Dark vs. regular; Sculpey vs. Fimo, etc.) Claire
... I saw Donna use the heat gun to set thin layers of the Kato liquid clay in between stamping and layering more liquid, and it worked like a dream. Sarajane

to do transfers onto curved surfaces
......to make a flat DECAL fit onto a curved surface, you can try cutting slits into, or wedges out of, the outside edges of the decal then overlap them slightly when applying (if that works with your design... could leave extra space around image to cut into if not)....
....Donna W. cuts her decal down to only the basic shape of the image, plus a little extra (so that it's no longer rectangular or round, but irregular) which allows the edges to lay on the round surface more easily
....... she also manipulates the decal in her cornstarch-covered hands to smooth and reposition the image if necessary (in her lesson on using a purchased tatoo)
http://polymerclaycentral.com/watertatoo.html
...a decal transfer can be made so thin that after baking you can actually wrap it around curved surfaces, etc. (lesson)
.......brush liquid clay on a piece of glass or ceramic tile. ... cut out an image (I used one from a magazine page) and place it face down on the LS ..... to eliminate any bubbles and to greatly thin the liquid clay layer, gently wipe with piece of foam (or one of those foam makeup sponges) wiping in same direction each time. ....bake at 265 for 15 minutes.......when you take the tile out of the oven you usually can remove paper while warm (remember to leave your self a little pull tab on the paper) --if you wait until it is cool, you may have to scrub the paper off under water or let it soak a while ...you should now have a super thin sheet of LS baked with perfect image transfer.......then you can apply this image onto unbaked clay by painting thin coat of liquid clay on the unbaked clay first (it acts like a glue, or you can use Sculpey Diluent-Softener).
......I've had trouble wrapping a decal transfer only more than one curved dimension ... I've put wide strips around the center of the egg and had no problem...but don't try to stretch it to make t to *conform* to the surface both vertically and horizontally. It seems to work while you apply it, but it will develop many vertical cracks during baking...instead, I actually fill in the space *behind* the (top and bottom) of the transfer strip where the egg started to curve) with more clay (liquid or regular).....(however, if your transfer is very thin and also not too tall in comparison to the dimension of the spherical shape you're putting it on, you won't get too much distortion of shape... my White House egg is an example http://www.kimledesigns.com/eggs/eggs.htm).... Patti
...aking a DIRECT transfer: Donna Kato has a wonderful method that also works great for working on curved surfaces
........burnish the transfer onto a sheet of clay then let it sit on the clay for about 15 minutes (so do the transfer flat)... (remove paper)....then lift the clay with the image transferred to it, and apply it to a curved or rounded? surface.... great for tube type beads
.......you just have to be careful when handing the raw clay with the transfer already on it, as it can smear. ..Dotty
...I've done curved transfers with an ace bandage.... put the clay around your bottle--I used a cardboard tube instead, but same thing. Place the paper with the artwork/words picture side down against the clay, burnish in place with your finger or knife handle,etc, then wrap tightly with the ace bandage to hold the paper in place... bake with the bandage on.... then unwrap. Sarajane

when wanting an effect like Gwen Gibson's faux enamel technique (metallic foil behind a transparent transfer)
... just create the polymer transfer image with liquid clay instead of having to transfer the image to a very thin sheet of translucent clay (#7 on the pasta machine using wax paper) --and instead of using glue/adhesive to adhere foil to the back, use more liquid clay and bake a second time. Carol O.

DIRECT to FABRIC:
fabric can can have a photocopied image transferred to it with liquid clay (also strengthens & thickens the fabric)
...fabric should be bakable, so natural fibers (or some blends) will work
........also, the weave shouldn't be so tight that the liquid clay has a hard time saturating it
..Karen's lesson on transferring a b&w photocopied image to fabric with liquid clay
.....apply liquid clay to paper image (fairly thick coat)... place ironed fabric (natural or blend, medium weave --she used a med-light, tone on tone print fabric) face down onto liquid clay...pat down to saturate, then press out air from middle to edges...apply liquid clay to back of fabric in same way if fabric not saturated ...bake flat (not in convection oven) 10 min then remove... while hot, peel fabric off (can rewarm and peel again, or soak then rub, if nec.)... let dry before using
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_accessories_purses/article/0,1789,HGTV_3227_3150845,00.html
....Ann & Karen Mitchell's lesson on making a flexible bookmark using TLS & (a sheer fabric) silk organza (or polyester chiffon fabric)...an oil-pencil-colored-in, b&w photocopied image is transferred to the fabric
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_other/article/0,,HGTV_3239_1380225,00.html
.......(see more on using liquid clay with fabric in Mixing Media > Fabric --and maybe also. Misc > Purses)

"CELLS"

"Cells" can be created from clay (or wire) in various ways, then filled in with colored liquids to create faux stained glass and faux cloisonne.
...If transparent fillings are used, they can look more like stained glass, and if more opaque fillings are used they can look more like cloisonne.

Cells can be created by laying clay ropes onto a clay base, or onto glass then removed later, and sometimes onto paper then removed later.
Cells can also be created by making a clay mold which has cells
Cells can also be created by making molds from other materials like

Cells can also be created by stamping or texturing raw clay, but that's more generally referred to as antiquing or backfilling)

For maximum clarity in the tinted liquid clay used in cells (if that's what you want), what helps the most is applying the tinted liquid clay in very thin layers
...and then baking the liquid clay really hot (300º for 10 min. (--I've never had any trouble with that temp and tim harming the underlying clay)

" Stained Glass " + ornaments
(primarily using with clay ropes as "leading" )

lot of overlap with Cloisonne just below

on clay (permanent)

Faun lays down a square of flat clay (or more than one color)
.....then lays ropes of clay on top of it
......then fills in some of the cells with tinted liquid clay)... (Lady Pins, cloisonne albums, clois.beads (website gone)
....lesson at michaels... clay rope outlines on clay... all cells and background (with margin/dam?) filled with tinted liquid clay ... baked
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayArticle?articleNum=as0056

on glass (then removed)
(...or on textured glass.. or paper)

Suzanne H's lesson on filling in a freehand-drawn wing shape made of black clay ropes with different colors of liquid clay & paint (oil?) on a sheet of glass to make butterflies for a mobile
.....she uses a log of clay for the body (with embedded wire loop for hanging), baking the body together with the wings in an angled pose
http://polymerclaycentral.com/mobile.html
..Jean S's very clear stained glass fish window cling using Kato liq.clay
http://www.pbase.com/stargazer/image/2652428
Donna C's lesson on making flat xmas tree ornaments with ropes of clay (clay gun) in "closed shapes" filled in with liquid clay (some colored with metallic acrylic paints, swirled Pearl Ex, etc.
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/tls_ornament.html
..Claire’s suncatcher star shape (hung in window) made on glass or ceramic shape, then removed (website gone).
…..I bought a small flat glass star ornament .... I laid out my design using Premo "lead" (50/50 mix of black and silver), extruded through the clay gun, on the star.
......then I tinted TLS with oil paints or Pearl ex and I filled in the spaces between the clay leading.
......after I baked it, I peeled off the design. Claire
...Rob & Meslissa's stained glass decals with TLS and embossing powders, leading
http://www.heartland-images.com/clay/pcms.html
...one of these days I want to try a combination of my technique and Geo's - a leaded outline but with the crayon shavings and other inclusions that Geo uses. Claire

For my bigger pieces, I've found that an old glass tray from a microwave oven is a great baking surface. Claire

I did this on a square-ish glass bottle... I had to cure each side as I did it... I would suggest using a heat gun (carefully) to "set" the TLS, allowing a little more working positions (offsetting the drip-drip tendencies), before the final baking.
....I also used use a bit of white glue to add a bit of "tooth" to the glass before adding the clay (otherwise, you may have to tack the baked TLS onto the glass). JudiPurple

Jeanne Rhea's lessons for making stained glass/cloisonne
on glass ... and also on. textured glass and paper

here she uses using tinted TLS + Pearl-ex powders for coloring
http://www.heartofclay.com/sb/cat15.jpg
here she uses pre-colored 2 pt epoxy resins ("cold enamels")
http://artfortheheart.blogspot.com/2007/06/polymer-clay-atcs.html

1. Draw or select a picture which is much like a child's coloring book picture, with just the black outlines to color between. The less busy-the better. A 3"X5" size is a good size to work with. (Dover has a bunch in some stained glass designs which are copyright free and will make it simpler to do for a sample.)
(If using the paper method, photocopy your picture so that the lines won't smear... or use permanent ink--not inkjet)
2. Condition your choice of clay. I prefer Premo for the "leading"
...add Sculpey Diluent to make the clay very workable and for ease of extruding. You will get a feel for what works the best. You want it so it is not dry at all. It also needs a little diluent as it bends at curves much better. Store the clay a covered "Tupperware" type container so it does not dry out or get dusty and it will remain workable for weeks.
...(I don't like using solid black clay) ...Premo gold with black or some gold with black and a little green can make interesting leading ---especially if you are going for an older look. Even black with pearl is better than solid black.
..... If you want to make "cloisonne," use gold (or other metallic?) Premo.
-- Using a Kemper clay gun, squeeze out polymer clay in the small round size. Need to use a size that is consistent with the size picture you are using. The bigger, your picture, the bigger the piping should be. (Do not use Armor-all in your gun as this will cause a problem when you are making the TLS flow up to the piping and filling in the design.)
3. There are two methods which can be used from this point on. (Using glass is actually the easier method, but it does give a slightly different look to the back of the window. It also allows you to reuse your pattern though.)
ON PLAIN GLASS: Place your design under a piece of glass (I bought picture frame glass). Try to use a thin glass because if your glass is too thick (1/4", e.g.) the lines will be slightly distorted or may be hard to get a fine design from it. I use masking tape and tape picture to glass so it does not move if I choose to turn the glass to work at better angles.
ON TEXTURED GLASS: I found some textured glass and it gives an even more "real" stained glass look as the TLS floats into grooves and the "glass" allows a variation of light to come through just like real stain glass. The trouble is the slight bumps make it a little more difficult in preventing the TLS from flowing into the different areas. So if using textured glass, the leading next to the texture also has the same texture to it. Also if too textured, your pattern may be difficult to follow.
ON PAPER:
(I made only two with paper and after that, I used glass.)
... With a flat paintbrush or your finger, brush a thin layer of TLS diluted with Diluent right onto the image (photocopied or permanent ink, so your ink will not smear)
...this makes the paper waxy or oily, and helps with releasing the paper.... it will also make the surface tacky to hold the piping in place .....eventually, you will learn just exactly how much you can do before it dries and no longer holds the piping while you work
... (the secret with paper is to have Diluent on the paper as that helps with separating the paper from the clay when done. I had no trouble, but I may have just caught the "moment" that it was easy to separate the paper...)
4. Using the Premo piping or rope, start laying it down following the lines. Using a toothpick or your finger, press right onto the lines, sticking it to the the glass (or to the TLS on the paper.)
-- Cut with a razor blade at any point needed. Angle the cut if needed. Never overlap the piping because then your colored TLS will flow under the edges and mix, and will not look like stained glass. What you will be trying to do is to keep the different colors in little puddles. (There may be a case at the end which you need to add dimension such as my cat whiskers; those would be the last piping done and would go on top of any of the other piping.)
5. Using TLS take just a spoon full and put on a palette. (I use something with a wax like surface so the TLS is not drawn into the paper.) Mix in Pearl-Ex pigments (Caution, the less you can use and get the color you want, the better for the stained glass.) If it is too thick add, Sculpey Diluent. You want it to barely flow off of your toothpick into the sections.
-- I pick up the tinted TLS with a toothpick and let it flow into the areas that I want covered. I mix and do all of the same color and then move on to the next color. I also use a straight pin to pull or push the tinted TLS into the corners.
-- Let sit over night so it is very smooth and no bubbles are in the TLS.
6. When finished, bake right on the glass or the paper (if working on paper, after *about* seven to ten minutes check your work. I was able to peel the paper right off of the back and it is very smooth---but not as shiny as glass. Return to the oven to finish the curing process.) This even though very thin is amazingly tough---almost like leather or rubber.
Optional texturing: (Before filling in with tinted TLS, you can use some kind of tool and make a pattern like the gold filligree is usually on old cloisonne. The main outline areas are solid, but the interior lines look like a rope although very fine. . . . though now I see how taking two ropes and twisting them together would give a more accurate look than the wheel --the roller tool wheel that I use is an old pottery marking tool of some sort which I run on each side of the gold piping and it makes tiny indentations in the clay in a very even pattern. I use smaller piping that what I would normally use for the stained glass look.
I even used those tiny holeless glass beads in some of the TLS as I could not get the right color with the Pearl-ex powders. Worked very well. Jeanne

shrinkagle in larger sheets of TLS ..... I have noticed the larger your piece, the more shrinkage you will have. ...my pieces were 14"X20".
....I am making a church that has different windows depicting different religions and I used a design under a piece of glass to follow along to make the TLS windows.
...The first one was still perfect when sat on the pattern straight out of the oven when still stuck to the glass. Had already built my walls so I wanted them just slightly smaller than opening. I used my blade to lift one end to release from the glass while still warm. Sat aside to cool.
.... When I came back and put in opening it was over 1/4" smaller all the way around than when hot and still stuck to the glass.
.....I made other windows, and when I left them to cool on the glass they did not shrink as much--but still had slight shrinkage
. . . I add more diluent according to how much Pearl-ex powders that I have added for tinting the TLS. Jeanne R.
http://www.heartofclay.com/pc/wip.htm

I made a stained glass window for a dollhouse this way. It's really nice! Gillian

Delta's Paint Jewel Liquid Lead – pewter, gold and white... squeezable bottle with a needle nosed tip ...can be used with Paint Jewel colors to create Stained Glass inspired look.
http://www.deltacrafts.com/Paint/PaintJewels/ and http://www.deltacrafts.com/Projects/Paint/PaintJewels/ (proj's)

(...see just below in "Cloisonne" for various ways to get a "gold-wire" or other shiny metal look for separators or for leading)

Cloisonne ......( "Enameling", etc.)
(primarily using clay "mold sheets")

lot of overlap with Stained Glass just above

This technique is like faux "stained glass" (above) in many ways , except that:

CELL FILLINGS:
... are usually more opaque than the "transparent" or semi-transparent fillings used for faux "stained glass" (often simply tinted liquid clay)
....are usually a liquid clay which has been colored with oil paints (if white oil paint is used with other oil paint colors, the final color will be more opaque).
........ or colored with inclusions like Pearl Ex, real-metal powders, or other powders, crayon shavings, glitters, etc. (and usually with a coating of Varathane or two, etc., on top)
........or colored epoxy resins can be used
....for extra depth and glassiness, a thick coating of a clear liquid clay (FimoGel, Kato liquid clay), or 2-pt clear epoxy resin, or Varathane, etc., can be added over the colored filling
....the filling will have a pearly metallic quality if mica powders or pearly acrylic paints are used on the clay (under the clear layer)
....the filling will have a hard metallic quality if real metal powders or metallic leaf (or foil?) are used under the clear covering
...the back of the mold (bottom of cells) can be textured or stamped while raw, to create patterning in the filling

OUTLINES:
...a "cloisonne" effect often has gold outlines (rather than black or gray) to simulate gold wire

MOLD-not-ropes:
...the background-and-cells are usually created with either some kind of flat "mold" (sometimes in a 2-step process), or by making a "blank" from another material, or by direct sculpting
.......but the ropes-leading technique could also be used, as with "stained glass" info above, but would need to make the ropes gold (using clay, paint, leaf, etc.) ... for that, see esp. Jeanne R's lessons just above (she suggests using gold Premo because of its consistency) .....or could also use wire of various thicknesses as outlines

(btw, this is not the same as Gwen Gibson's technique for transfers which she calls "faux enameling" though, in which she applies a sheet of metallic leaf behind a translucent liquid clay transfer decal so the background underneath it will show through as metallic ... see Transfers > Photocopiers > Faux Enamel for that technique)

Cloisonne is a French word meaning to be "compartmentalized," cut off from another, or feel shut out
....the usual technique of cloisonne results in transparent or opaque areas of shiny surface "enamel" color (which is glass powder, fused by heat into solid glass), lying in enclosed "cells" which are created by wires onlaid onto a base in various shapes
(...or similarly, by stamping metal with a cell pattern as with "basse taille", etc.).
...all about cloisonne, and what it is, history, etc.: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/gom-cloisonne-primer.htm
...all "enameling" techniques: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/directory/library/subject/57/1
........various kinds of enameling http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/kc-enameling-than-and-now.htm

(making the background & cells)

using stamped or carved clay "molds" to make the depressions

"reverse" or "intermediate" clay molds (2-step)
cloisonne- type effects can be made using a 2-step process
1.....a sheet of clay (which has been textured or stamped in various ways, or carved) is baked (...you'll keep this mold as a mold)
2.... this baked flat clay mold is then used as a transitional mold for more raw clay, and then baked (becoming the cloisonne "blank" you'll use as your final piece)
(3...the cells of the blank are then filled with tinted liquid clay, or other liquids)
(the whole blank, or just the upper or lower parts of may be colored at some point (with metal powders, paints, metallic waxes, metallic leaf... or they may be textured, etc.)

carving:
...I've been baking a sheet of plain scrap clay (between tiles for a shiny effect?)
... then I carve a pattern into it with a linoleum cutter to create a flat shallow mold
....then use the carved baked sheet to make an impression (with raised ridges) into a sheet of raw clay.
...the little cells can then be filled with tinted liquid clay. Jody .
(see Carving for more details on "carving" in different ways --for example, into raw clay (or in raw clay backed with baked clay), using needle tools, etc.
... and also for Dockyard micro carving tools)

Tyra's lesson on using a rubberstamp to create the cells
....create the flat mold by pressing a stamp with bold lines into a raw white clay sheet (creates a fairly opaque effect)
... now bake this "sheet mold" ......this creates depressed, enclosed cells between the upraised lines
... the cells are then filled in and colored with tinted liquid clay
......tint with oil paint to create more opaque areas... metallic powders to create more translucent areas
....she then also paints her "leading" as well.... (with gold paint --Dr. Martin's Ready Tex paint, Bronze), but could you press it onto a pad of the gold paint first, or use gold Rub'N Buff, etc.?)
http://netnet.net/~cloud9/tutorials/tutorial_09.html (or http://netnet.net/~cloud9/ -- Tutorials > Stained Glass Polymer Clay Sailboat)

Patricia K's lesson on applying a sheet of gold leaf over a stamped image (reversed mold so main lines will end up raised and create cells), covering the stamped area completely by pressing down with a soft brush... and bakes
... she then tints liquid clay with various colors of Pinata Inks (& allows the alcohol to evaporate for 30 min), then drops each color into a tiny cell using the end of a "pointed palette tool", sometimes removing misplaced liqiud clay with a small rubber chisel tool
... can use a heat gun to set each color or area to keep them from getting messed up while working further
... bakes, and coats with a gloss finish (sev. coats)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_ChristmasOrnamentGiftBox.htm (begin Step 5)

I also wanted to see how a textured, .metallic background would look under the liquid clay (highlighted with gold varnish)
.......so I textured a raw gold clay sheet of Premo, then just carved an outline around it
....... I used that to mold some gold clay...and baked it.
.......then I put a wash of burnt umber acrylic paint over the texture, and let it settle into the recessed areas... let dry
.......I mixed gold Pearl Ex into acrylic varnish, and brushed that on the high areas only ....let that dry
.......when I filled it in with translucent liquid clay (don't make this any deeper than you need to), I only tinted it very slightly in some areas.
....for the best clarity, I then bake a piece like this at 300-325
.... After baking ,you can finish with a gloss varnish or sand and buff..... I also like to sand down a little because it looks pretty when some of the Premo grain peeks through.....after sanding and buffing the sense of depth is incredible! Looks like a hologram. Jody Bishel

Robin Beatty has figured out how to apply metallic leaf to a textured clay base ... and then apply (could be tinted?) liquid clay on top
.... they really look glassy
.....( I was worried about the liquid clay staying attached to the metallic leaf, but she said she had not had any problem with it.) Jody

Sue Heaser also covers some shallow molds with metallic powders --real-metal or mica-- before using tinted, tinted transparent 2-pt epoxy resins over them.... get that nice feeling of depth in the pools of colour. ... she covered this in an article in the Polyinformer with cloisonne polyclay

The brighter, more saturated mica powders (like Perfect Pearls) seem to work better than Pearl Ex, then covering with liquid clay (or epoxy resin or clear acrylic, etc.), whether clay is textured first or not

Judy Belcher's lesson has several things going on:
...the final raw clay piece is completely covered with real-metal powder (then baked at 300 for 10 min to "anneal it") so the metallic effect will be on both upraised sections and underneath the very-lightly tinted liquid clay
...nested textured flat shapes (using pattens) are used as components (laid together on a plain sheet) (flat frame addded around complete shape) to create an intermediate mold (...the textures will show up as slightly dimensional textures under the liquid clay if it's tinted lightly enough)
...uses a circle & other tiny cutters to impress the intermediate mold in the expanses of the textured component shapes to act as focal points (some circles she leaves as "donuts," others she removes the middle area to create a "silhouette" hole... when final piece is filled in with liquid clay, one will be a disk and another a circle)
...she also leaves a 1/8" space between each component shape, which will create a few upraised "separators" in the final piece
...she bakes few times between filling all the cells
...applies a gloss varnish to the entire surface for maximum shine
http://www.hgtv.com/crafting/clay-cloisonneacute-pin/index.html

...the first couple of times you use the (baked, intermediate) mold, the raw clay will have a tendency to stick, so powder it well.
...I put the raw clay on a clean sheet of paper, put that on the floor, position the mold on the clay, and use my heel to press straight down on the mold (if a strong clay was used)... lots easier than trying to use my hands... Jody Bishel

see also Mosaics below

(for other ways of making molds, texture sheet molds, and stamp molds --including reverse molds, see Molds > Other Ways to Make Molds, Stamping > , and Texturing > Texture Sheets)

other "intermediate mold" materials

molds for clay cloisonne blanks don't have to be clay
...certain types of stamps are more outie than innie (IOW, not just outlines.. could be silhouettes, for example)
....texture sheets could function as innies or outies, depending on the side used next to the clay
....molds can also be made from 2-pt silicone, various glues, etc. (see Molds)
.....tools or objects from around the house could also be used to make impressions in a sheet of clay, then used as a mold
....individual items like glass beads (holes upward)
....even metal charms which are morely flat with depressions could be filled with liquid clay, or clay then powdered?

maribel's lesson on creating shallow cells with a dimensional, acrylic silver paint applied with a thin-nozzled bottle (silver"fabric" paint or puff paint--apply as rope of paint to leaf surface) to create lines (on top of silver leaf she covered the clay sheet with first)
... then paints liquid clays tinted with Pearl Ex powders inside the silver-leafed cells, and bakes (files the edges of any excess, then uses a silver paint pen to color edges)
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.polymermania.com%2Fblog%2F2008%2F05%2F18%2Ftutorial-falso-cloisonne-con-arcillas-polimericas%2F&sl=es&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

using stiff metal foils as blanks (no solid clay used)

sheets of metal foil can first be embossed (impressed) in various ways to create cells
...the cells are filled with liquid clays or other liquids
...the foil will then act both as raised "leading" for the cells, and also as a reflective surface behind the translucent liquids in the cells to create a brighter effect

Btw, liquid clay settles or smoothes somewhat when left to rest a bit in the cells before baking. Dotty

Jody Bishel uses disposable aluminum cookie sheets
...for more info on embossing cookie sheet metal (on craft foam with ball stylus), see Texture > Making Your Own Texture Sheets

extra-strength aluminum foil
...smooth 4-5 layers of foil with credit card, etc.... roll together at edges to keep layers together? (can use a spray adhesive if not baking later)
...place on mouse pad, etc..... then emboss from dull side
........(guidelines... can follow an image stamped with dye ink, or one drawn with permanent marker)

"craft foil"
...Ann & Karen Mitchell's use Art Emboss craft foil which comes in aluminum, colored aluminum, matte black (extra lightweight)... as well as gold, pure pewter, copper, brass
...comes in very thin sheets on 5' rolls (some in pkg of squares)... diff. weights-thicknesses: light & medium, and now some? in extra-light
.......at my local Michaels the foil is in a spot where you'd never think to find it ... the back of the art supply section. Jenn
......art supply stores often have ...or can be ordered online
Ann & Karen's lesson on using strips of Art Emboss as "faux wire" outlines forming cell areas (to create a cloisonne book cover)
...the strips are folded lengthwise and the fold is flattened(1/8" final width)
...then they run most strips through a crimper, or bend them into shapes
... the strips are then pressed into a raw sheet of clay (over prev. impressed guildelines), folded side up
... they then fill the cells inside the foil strips with TLS and Pearl Ex thinned with Diluent
(foil in lesson is supposed to be gold foil, but photos look silver)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_other/article/0,1789,HGTV_3239_1390749,00.html
Ann & Karen's lesson on using an Art Emboss which is blue on one side and silver on the other side
(... they impress several separate pieces... and use the finished sheet to cover a cylindrical galvanized tin vessel)
...(step 7 and on:)... emboss the uncolored side of the foil (which is resting on a #1 sheet of clay dusted with cornstarch), using a leather stamp (and wood mallet if possible)
... then they squeeze small amount of plain liquid clay into each depression... bake 15 min
... turn foil to colored side up, and roll over to gently flatten the foil somewhat
... they highlight the upraised areas with liquid clay (colored with black oil paint), though this will remove some of the color ... bake 10 min
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,,HGTV_3352_1399649,00.html

wire + clay ropes

outlines can also be created in the clay (with resulting "cells" between) with thin clay ropes, or with wire
....... or with other long, or shaped, strings of material
...or thin clay ropes , wipe or other material could be used just to make indentions, which are then backfilled with color

purchashed wire shapes can be used too (jumprings, clasps, metal tube findings, even tube beads on their sides, etc.)

bezels, bottle caps, and other walled items can also be filled with liquid clay (generally the clearer ones like Fimo or Kato liquid clay since the layer will be thick)
...if the material ot bezel has no back, it can be placed securely into/onto clay, or glued onto another surface that can be baked
.....Chris ' lesson on pouring Fimo liquid clay into a small bezel (which had been attached to a small round backing piece of metallic foil on liquid clay decal) over a clay flower (she poured a thin layer and baked, attached the bottom of the flower with more liquid clay and baked, then overfilled the bezel a bit to create a "floating garden" effect
http://www.craftsbychrisonline.com/blog/?p=10
(for much more on filling bottle caps with polymer items, see Other Materials > Epoxy Resin > Cells

(for all info on using tiny clay ropes as dividers, rather than wire or molds, see above in Stained Glass)

more materials to fill in cells with

"cold enamels" (pre-tinted, 2-pt epoxy resins) work very well on polyclay too ...it looks so lovely
... I use the transparent coloured cold enamels for cloisonne, over metallic powders (Pearl Ex, etc.) on polymer clay ....you get that nice feeling of depth in the pools of colour.
... I covered this in an article in the Polyinformer a while back with cloisonne polyclay -Sue Heaser
(see more on cold enamels in Other Materials > "Pre-Colored resins to buy" )

for a shiny enamel look, there are some cool recipes for stuff that looks like cold enamel in "Frames with Flair," by Suzanne McNeill
......the author mixes water-based polyurethane with acrylic paint (1 to 1)
...also... for simulating leading, a dimensional look can be gotten from this same mix, but applied with squeeze bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking soda to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp acrylic paint. MJ

acrylic paint in the depressions of a texture mold (wipe off high areas after brushing on).... dry.
.....could also be baked 5-10 minutes with liquid clay on top (or clear embossing powder) for an enamel look

liquid clay tinted with oil paints or alcohol inks or mica powders or other pigments can also be used for cells, or for the recesses of stamped, textured or carved clay

Jainnie has used her own texture plates & black clay.... giving several all-over coats of pearescent inks (or pearlescent acrylic paints?) (and possibly mostly filling the cells?) ....allowing to dry
... then sanding back the top so the black shows through again with the most stunning colours left in the groove of her own texture stamped clay.....too cool! . . . ...You could also use rub'n'buff, or just about anything I guess. tantaz

"decoupaged" faux cloisonne

Lynne' lesson on using liquid clay as a "decoupage" medium on cloisonne-patterned Japanese paper, front and back, as well as a thin sheet of translucent clay, to create a flat sheet of faux cloisonne
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_JapTLSDecoupage.htm
......Jim Morris used a sheet of Japanese paper wtih metallic gold paint for the "wire," to make a pin
http://www.beadyeyedbrat.com/jmorris2a.jpg

CUTTING

DIMENSIONAL

Dimensional effects can be achieved in various ways with liqiud clay
... upraised areas of small squiggles or puddles
... flat but thick areas contained in cells of clay or other materials
... completely 3-D, having been contained in molds, etc.

brands ...Kato & Fimo liquid clays are clearer than Sculpey's (TLS)... some are runnier (see above in Comparisons of brands)

to apply liquid clay to a on a curved or vertical surface, where gravity will make it run down or spread
..use a heatgun to firm up, or to completely cure
..apply in thin layers which are less likely to run ... bake between each layer
...use a thicker brand of liquid clay (LS or TLS)
...thicken the liquid clay by leaving it exposed to air awhile... or thicken it with an inclusion such as mica powder, pigments, chalk, etc.
...contain the liquid clay, either permanently (see "cells" below)... or temporarily with something else which can be easily removed later (possibly using a barrier of alum. foil, etc., or Repel Gel)... or cut off with scissors or blade

Drizzling ... piping (onlay)

faux "lampwork"

Ann and Karen's lesson on drizzled Liquid Sculpey & Pearl Ex metallic powders (for onlay on beads)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_FioratoPendant.htm
...they use 1/4 teaspoon or so of (opaque & thicker) original LS, mixed with metallic powder until paste-like consistency... (let sit overnight for better texture)
...mount bead on head, eye pin or toothpick for easy handling
...drizzle a string of it off a skewer
...and/or apply several coats with a brush, then bake in a scrap-clay stand; let cool; seal with Varathane or another glaze...

Kato's liquid clay (Clear Medium) makes much shinier 'faux lampwork' than TLS does... Sera
Sera's drizzled colors over gold (lightly textured Pearl Ex?) bead
http://www.polymerclay.com.au/images/flampworkleft.jpg

Judy B's lesson on making square gods-eye lampwork beads ...with 3 colors of Pearl Ex mixed into Kato liquid clay (on baked beads)
...each color = 1/2 oz. liquid clay + 1/8 tsp.(wite pearl, turquoise, black)
...add white mix while bead is still hot from oven (which partially cures the liquid clay) to all 4 sides of beads (on skewers)... bake 5 min.
...drop on next color while hot, and bake 5 min.... 3rd color, and bake 5 min.
http://ww w.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_beads/article/0,1789,HGTV_3229_3994598,00.html

These onlays can resemble "lampwork" (making beads from melted glass over a torch flame) ...for more info/history on regular lampwork, see http://www.mjlampwork.com/

On flat surfaces you can build up thick layers, but on vertical surfaces, the TLS will slump and run.
...so try drizzling TLS on a piece hot out of the oven...the heat instantly sets it for great dimensional effects ... then re-bake. Emily
...also the big secret to applying the LS in very thin lines is to put it on a hot bead. Liz
...i use a roaster oven to heat the beads, that way i don't have to run to the kitchen oven, etc and it keeps its heat better than a toaster oven...i just sit it on the corner of my table....I sit a glass panon the rack, or a terra cotta pot...then just reach in and take out your pan or your piece. ...sometimes i make little "cradles" with aluminum foil so i can just grab the top of the foil and that is easier. twiggy
...a heat gun from Michael's ....I've used it to partially cure the LS prior to baking (thanks for that tip, Jody!). . . .set an oven thermometer in front of the heat gun to determine how far away to hold it to heat the piece to the clay curing temp of 275 degrees.

Sometimes you have to apply in layers and do multiple bakes to build up a certain size or shape, since applying it all at once would run off, especially if it's not thickened. Tess

You can apply liquid clay on a clay piece hot out of the oven... the heat will set it instantly it for great dimensional effects (...then re-bake for strength). Emily

Marie R's lesson on drizzling-drawing a shape onto clay with LS, then covering with embossing powder (tamp off excess) and baking
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_TLSEmbossed.htm

Ann and Karen's lesson on Liquid Sculpey & Pearl Ex (for onlay on beads) also shows how to make patterns like flowers and dots with a skewer and the mixture... they suggest Varathane or the thicker Sculpey glaze to finish, if desired
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_FioratoPendant.htm
Dora's "stitches" of LS on crazy quilt
http://members.shaw.ca/clayquilt/crazy1 (page 3)
various frames with tinted liquid clay embellishments
http://www.pbase.com/stargazer/ravensdale_2003

Carly Siebel's faux lampwork, 3-D beads using Liquid Sculpey, flowers and swirls/dots ...also article Bead & Button magazine (Nov-Dec 2002)
http://www.geocities.com/lubellebeads/beadspage.html (may have to mouse-over photos to see lampwork, or click on Home... or look in header banner if nothing else works)
http://www.geocities.com/lubellebeads/faux.html (gone)

(Carly's beads are) very different direction from mine . . . She not only applies the tls to the bead while it is HOT, but she also does a little at a time, then pops the bead in the oven for a few minutes and then does some more. .I think it's supposed to keep the tls from spreading out. I am going to have to try some of her tricks. . . .Right now I just work very very fast. Libby
...Libby's dots, squiggles, commas, tiny swirls, and other shapes on clay beads, using mostly opaque clays in bright colors (or black on white,etc.)...the "LS" is paque too (not TLS) ...gives a different effect from the mostly pale colored translucent ones
http://forums.delphiforums.com/polymerclay/messages?msg=21376.1
http://www.hobbystage.net/art/libbym (gone)
...I tint the (opaque) LS or the TLS with either oil paint, genesis paints, or pearl ex powders... I use a squeeze bottle or a paint brush to apply .. you have to do them fast or the tls just spreads and the design looks awful.
It's really not hard, just scribbling on clay. You need a steady hand and you need to get them immediately in the oven!
I think I am going to Varathane one or two today to see how they look. I just hate how it pools in the depressions of beads so I have been putting it off. Libby

If your beads get "sealed" on the skewer, try putting them back in the oven for a few minutes and then yank (and/or twist?) those pretty babies off the skewers while still hot. Libby

I am going to try it (with a metal skewer) but the problem is how to hold the hot bead and hot metal skewer and apply the tls without dropping the bead or burning myself. I can't use wooden skewers because they made my beads crack when I went to take them off the skewer. Libby
...How about building a polymer handle on the double-pointed knitting needles? The clay would be hot but not as bad as the metal and it might be easier to hold . . ...Oh, that's a good idea; a cardboard handle that you can slip the needles into but tight enough to hold the needle in there when you are twisting it to and fro. . . . I have some of that rubbery cabinet liner...a little piece of that should protect your fingers... I use pieces of piano wire to hold my beads; the heat dissipates so rapidly from the spring steel that I can hold them in my hands moments after I remove them from the oven. Kat

The Bead Bugle's History of Flameworking (lampwork)
http://www.nfobase.com/html/history_of_flameworking.htm

other drizzling

I made some sheets of loopy abstract lace by piping plain liquid clay onto paper (or glass?)
.....then peeling it off after baking (stays quite flexible and strong)
.... before I peeled it though, I also made a mold of its texture (texture sheet)... the pattern was really cool in reverse.

Marcella's liquid lace made with thick, colored liquid clays in patterns (possibly baked in rubber texture sheets, or clay texture sheets with release?), then applied to clay sheet ..a shape then cut from the sheet and onlay as pendant, etc.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4327525&a=31882623&p=75652024

Jeanne R' uses liquid clay as icing and glazing on her miniature donuts, etc.
http://www.heartofclay.com/page7.htm
...iced animal crackers.......TLS and artist's pastels.
........I used white pastel for the white, schmeared it on, baked it, then used the colors over it once it was set. nae
...I shave the color off into a glop of TLS, then smush it up with a toothpick. Hadn't ever added white to the glops before, will have to try that as icing on chocolate cakes. SqueakieCat

hot air balloons (made over light bulbs. . . not polymer, but inspirational, and could be adapted)
...created by onlaying and or painting (inside) light bulbs, then attaching screw-threaded "baskets" underneath with strings of leading... ..drizzling liquid clay or using strings of extrduded clay could work, along with other onlays ...for removal ideas, see Covering > Glass > Light Bulbs
http://www.hotairballoon.org/balloonatics/morephotos.htm

Instead of trying to sculpt a lot of detail on each clay seahorse for the swap, I just made a basic shape of a seahorse (with a mold or a cutter )... then I all added the raised details (body ribbing and eyes) with liquid polymer clay. Nancy

I wrap a patterned bead in a very thin layer of (FimoSoft) translucent clay, letting the pattern underlayer show through ... and then just put little clay dots on the top of the encased beads. Heather P.
http://www.humblebeads.com/tip3.html

for a shiny enamel look (that could be similar to colored liquid clay), there are some cool recipes for stuff that looks like cold enamel in "Frames with Flair," by Suzanne McNeill
.... the author mixes 1/2 water-based polyurethane (like Varathane) with 1/2 acrylic paint
.... for a dimensional look that can be applied with squeeze bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking soda to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp paint. MJ

application & mixing... tips

for applying the liquid clay, Jacquard makes fine-line, tipped bottles ...or you can find fine-line tips at Michael's in the tole-painting section. Elizabeth

"syringes" of various types can be used to apply the liquid clay in thin lines, or in tight places... these can be found in a number of places, for a number of applications
...I use syringes to concentrate small amounts of the LS with precision. I have used the LS to "glue" on details that could not be added in the first baking, and the syringes allowed me to put down a precise, thin line of LS. It also makes it easy to fill in areas where you are adding a thin coating of LS like enamel. . .
...I am using syringes made for needles (but without needles attached) which have the advantage of a tip cover. In addition to the glue syringes you can find in hobby/craft shops, there are also oral medication syringes available in most drug stores without prescription. Ask at the pharmacy counter if you don't see them with the pill boxes and medicine spoons and such.
...I've had LS in plastic syringes intended to hold glue for months with no problem. ...as I used it up, I refilled them.
...you can also go the the pharmacy and buy a handfull of 3cc syringes for the price that MicroMark is charging for one ...I have seen them they are just the same 3cc syringes that we use at the hospital
...you can get the syringe with a needle at REI. Its an "emergency kit" for overseas travel. In otherwords, in a third world country you want to provide your own needles. I wonder if its a state to state thing. -NF
...If you go to a medical supply place you can buy the syringes in various sizes from very small to huge. magicmoira
..for the needles, at Fry's Electronics store... they have needles and syringes available for electronic soldering.
......the needles are real handy... they are short, and not pointed, and screw right onto the top of the syringe ...they fit the syringes from the med supply ... these are also real handy for squeezing "grout" between mini tiles. magicmoira
....you can even ask for needles (maybe a 18 gauge), then file off the point and you'll have a micro point for applying the tls in small places.... saraj42
.......see more on syringes and eyedroppers in Inks > Inks for Tinting

thicken liquid clay, to more like a paste
...I've been making my own "gold TLS" . . . it's Rhein Gold powder + TLS.
......You can mix in so much powder that it almost turns into more of a paste than a liquid and still get it through the Jacquard fine-line tipped bottles or the fine-line tips you see at Michael's in the tole-painting section.
..... The advantage to this thicker consistency is that the lines you make stay dimensional --- before curing, I let the piece to settle a bit so that the mica flakes will all "relax" and lay flatter in the TLS so they'll look more metallic. The thicker paste doesn't run.
.......I hope CLS (the new "Colored Liquid Sculpeys") will be on the thick side too...Elizabeth
..if you mix in some Pearlex powder (white), that would probably stiffen the liquid clay up enough for snow (I've dropped it on with a brush... It does spread a little (or use something else to mix in?)

First I mixed in some Pearlex powder in hopes of thickening it up enough so it would not spread too much. It helped a little but also made it much more difficult to push through the syringe.

to mix up a larger amount of liquid clay with an inclusion or with Diluent, I use the paper cups with a wax coating.

(for more on ways to color, apply or store liqiud clays, see above)

MOLDS

using in deeper molds

Donna Kato says LS was first used in molds to make magnets
…in the beginning (long ago) Polyform discovered that the liquid Sculpey didn't perform highly (on an exacting standard) unless it was vacumn formed, something few people would be able to do.... It wasn't until us artist types began asking to experiment with it in ways other than molding that they have relented and brought it back on the market!

Liquid clay can be poured into molds made of some kinds of materials, and then baked while still in the mold.

There are various materials that can work:
...silicone molds are great for liquid clays ...most aret heat resistant up to 500 or so, are flexible, and don't require a release
.....purchase them in various shapes (see Molds > Other Purchased Molds)
.....or make silicone molds yourself from 2 pt.epoxy molding materials (see Molds > Making Molds Yourself > Silicone)

...purchased molds made from terra cotta/ceramic/natural clay, metal, wood, and possibly even from baked polymer clay, but see below for exactly how each material must be used.

There can be a problem with bubbles or bumps or pinholes in the baked liquid clay though if precautions aren't taken in handling (for example, letting the liquid clay rest at least 30 min. before baking--- not always necessary... may vary by brand?).
.... also certain liquid clay brands may work better than others
... and any additives with water in them may cause bubbline or rough eruptions (like too much acrylic paint)
(......see all the info on these problems and techniques to avoid them above in "Air Bubbles.")

OTHER "deep" molds and & molding materials:

... metal molds (not release necessary)
.....will leave surface shiny (just Kato liq. clay?)

Tony Aquino's fabulous flexible bracelets, made in a metal "channel" strip from hardward store as mold ... channel ends dammed with clay to hold in the liquid clay ... clasp embedded in each end
http://polymerclaycentral.com/chall_jan04.html (finish)

Tony's metal spoons as molds for cabochons
more Tony
http://www.ntpcg.org/images/workshops/tonyaquino/gallery001.htm

...terra cotta molds like for cookies, etc., as well as natural clay or ceramic molds need no release at all
.........you can make your own face out of polymer... make a ceramic mold, and ask your local ceramic shop to fire it for you...tThen you can make as many reproductions as you like with the liquid clay)
...I poured some liquid clay on a (painted?) wooden checker which had been dusted with powder and that worked great. Peeled right off.
... plaster molds made for porcelain slip ... the clay can stick like mad (although it doesn't always, somehow!). However, if you seal them with a spray varnish or a mould release, they work fine. Crafty Ow
...purchased "Pushmolds" can’t be baked

baked polymer clay molds will usually bond to liquid clay if steps aren't taken to avoid it
........I have heard that Amorall works for this. PCIrene
.......others says a thick dusting of cornstarch , and also removing the liquid clay while still warm can sometimes be done
.......you can seal the polymer object with gloss glaze first
...............I tried coating the mold with Varathane and letting it dry, but the TLS still bonded with the mold. Dave
.......Kato's Repel Gel will not work

using in "shallow molds"

flour

here is a way of making a mold for liquid clay with flour) ...similar to a technique used by some chocolatiers (lesson) ....:
--place flour (reg baking flour) in a shallow pan (or box lid?), (I used small, aluminum pie tins).
--GENTLY pack it down with a flat bottomed glass or another flat object
(--make an impression with something)
--carefully fill the impression with a squeeze bottle full of TLS... yYou have much more control of the flow..and it is less likely to disturb the impression
--bake (at 300 degrees)!
--after baking, remove the object, wash, sand, and finish.
I completely filled the impression (probably a range from 1/8" to 1/2") It depends on the object I use to make the impression..but you can end up with items you can use as pins, pendants etc..
... To do this, I started out with plain TLS and used the back of a measuring spoon to make the impressions. The results was a perfect cabochon shape.
....I next used a brass charm, rubber stamp and various objects..with perfect results!

Some of the other experiments were as follows (could also be done in any mold):
-- lightly sprinkle PearlEX into the impression, then add a small amount of TLS, more Pearl Ex and more TLS..and bake
--Add tiny, holeless glass beads (beadz) to the tls and fill the impression (see Mixing Media > Seed Beads, etc.)
--Use various colors of TLS (colored with Pearl Ex etc) and mix tiny drops with the plain TLS for a gorgeous opal effect.
--Add tiny flecks of (metallic) leaf.
--I made an impression using a Kokopelli pendant, then used a toothpick and added tiny amounts of acrylic paint to the TLS that was already in the impression..and VERY gently swirled it... lovely marble effect!
....It's really very simple..and the only thing I'd suggest is to be careful when moving the pan to the oven. The flour is much more stable than you might think..but care is needed so you don't disturb the mix.
....The flour can be reused ..though some of it clumped a bit..so I just tossed it out.
(...Btw...the same thing can be done using tempered chocolate. You can use flour or cocoa powder to make the impression...and eat the results! ) Jan R.

making molds from liquid clay

mold in mold, or dam...

I made some sheets of loopy abstract lace by piping plain liquid clay onto paper (or glass?) ...then peeling it off after baking.
.... before I peeled it, I also made a mold of its texture ... really cool in reverse.

baked liquid clay seems to carve pretty easily. Sara Jane
..can baked LS be carved with a Dremel? If so, which burrs work best? Do they clog up with plastic? Diane B.
.....It would be worth a try. It might tear if you grind into it with a burr, though working in a cup of water may help keep the burr from catching.
... I have used a mini sanding drum with success as long as I don't try to go too fast (that tends to clog the grit) Jody B
I usually prefer to cut into LS with a sharp tool like an xacto knife or a linoleum cutter... guess it depends on what you're trying to do. Jody B.

could then backfill the carved areas with more liquid clay or with something else
(...for more on carving and backfilling . . . see Carving > Backfilling)

could carve into diff. colored layers of baked liquid clay for a sgraffito effect
...or card into baked liquid clays which were marbled, etc.

other possibilties

( ...for ways of making shallow "molds" by embossing into metal "foils" of various kinds, then filling the depressions created with tinted liquid clays to create faux cloisonne and/or stained glass, see above in "Cloisonne")

Pen Score (aka "MagicStamps") --foam sheets or blocks for making foam stamps using heat & pressure (works with liquid clay though????... bakable?)
http://www.clearsnap.com/index.htm ...also get PenScore at many rubber stamp stores and in the Nasco catalog. Randi
... impressed Pen Score does work with liquid clay (though isn't hard enough to emboss raw clay itself) ...bake?, then pop out liquid clay?
......Victoria Rabinowe scores a design into a sheet foam (supermarket foam meat trays or foam dishes work great), then molds MagicStamp (Pen Score) to the foam.

MORE USES for liquid clay

I once used the white liquid Sculpey--not the translucent-- for a snow look. It was amazingly real looking. It has been a long time, but I think I let it set out for awhile painted on the item and used some kind of stenciling brush to pounce on it for a snow like pattern. Hope this helps. Jeanne R.

water, waves ...spilled liquids ... liquid clay (especially when thin, looks a lot like spilled milk, even after baking... can also look like various kinds of water)
Cheryl's faux breaking waves in beach scenes (also on one large oval bead) ...
http://www.cherylsart.net/Beads_for_sale.html and http://www.cherylsart.net/portrait.html

To see how delicate I could get, I painted on two coats of green tinted LS . . . also baking in between- in effect made my own custom colored "telephone" wire.

I guess you could soak string, make a shape with it and bake that. Or how about custom colored telephone wire? Mix in pigment, brush on wire of any thickness and bake.

You can always make hinges for bracelets, roll top boxes, etc., with the material that's soaked with liquid Sculpey. But it's probably better to just soak it with alcohol and blot it out. Dotty

the large-round tipped #13 tapestry needle ...the eye ends of those big needles also make great dip pens for TLS, frisket and paints. Halla

Jeanne R' uses liquid clay as icing and glazing on her miniature donuts, etc.
http://www.heartofclay.com/page7.htm

faux canvas painting... make color or b&w print from a photo, on your inkjet printer (not a mirror image).... tape print on a sheet of glass or cardboard
....paint over the print with LS as if you were doing an oil painting
....when you get done, cover it with a piece of fine gauze cloth and add a coat of TLS.
... bake it. ....this or some variation of it should give you a "painting" that looks like it was done on canvas. I learned this trick from my grandmother before polyclay was invented. We used it on those paint by number kits... idea for someone to try. Smoke

labels ...What I ended up with was using TLS as a laminate over hand coloured labels. ...what I wanted was lots of colour, a friendly home-spun look and (hopefully) with some sophistication as well, and I wanted them to be waterproof.
... I took some card stock and drew the name of the blend with a stylus and coloured over with pencils, then put a layer of TLS over it. The TLS changed the colours of the (colored?) pencils into mostly jewel tones, and they are a nice matte texture, almost like cloth.
... I tried using other sealers to make the paper waterproof but they soaked into the paper, unlike the TLS which sits on top. I'm pretty pleased. My husband suggested I scan them in my computer and I think that would be great as I could take my time and make each label series a little drawing ... but I have to experiment and see what the inkjet colours are like under the TLS.
The other great thing about using TLS is more possibilities of using powders and other embellishments. I used a bit of embossing powder on a few. Deborah (website gone)

Jody B.: I love it when a mistake turns out to be a good find. I got too heavy handed on an ancient bronze patina and found that it makes a rather nice jade. If you want the surface to look matte and old, a sparse stippling of two shades of Liquid Sculpey and perm. green oil paint over a dark metalic gray base, does the job. If you use a more generous amount, the colors merge a bit and look like jade. Since the LS is self leveling, it can be sanded with 1200 grit paper and buffed to a rich gloss.

What if we had chips of clay, little stars let's say. "Painted" only the little baked stars in the night sky with Future. But the Liquid Sculpey would be better, wouldn't it?

Jeanne R. accidentally put some TLS and pigments in the toaster oven while the broiler was still on for about 5 min. (before it had finished pre-heating) ...that created lots of upraised areas and irregular surfaces (looks like muddy or uneven ground)... be careful though
http://www.heartofclay.com/eb/burnt.jpg

MISCELLANEOUS

Using oil paints in liquid clay alone will give you a more opaque result
.... using metallic powders will give a more translucent result.

The clings are made by running a sheet of gold through the pasta machine on #5, then cutting the main shape out with a cookie cutter or large circle cutter. The leaf cling was too round looking so I hand-trimmed the edge for a scalloped look. The gold clay is textured with "Dragon Skin", a wonderful sanding sheet found in hardware stores. Punch out designs in the main shape with various Kemper or canape cutters, or by hand. Then fill in the punched out holes with colored TLS. Leave some holes open for variety. Linda Goff

If a sheet of (unbaked?) LS is left out awhile, it will become stiff enough to add other things that then won't sink in... including clay pieces or sheets
..to be able to stamp or carve on it? (what happens when it's baked though?)

Now, given the info you've provided (see Carving), I'm wondering what would happen if I painted a thin layer of TLS on glass, then a layer of ink on the TLS. Desiree
...If you bake the TLS first, it'll work.
....Otherwise the a water-based ink will sink beneath the TLS (which is oil based). ...then later when it's baked, the water in the ink steams up and makes the combination go all puffy (this happens even if the ink is dry before you bake it)....acrylics & TLS do not go together (sometimes, especially if a lot is used). Margaret
....what about alcohol-based inks like Pinata? (they may do the same if much is used, or if they don't sit a while?)

Would it be possible to use LS to make thin, flexible, sturdy pages for a polymer book???

for a shiny enamel look (that could be similar to colored liquid clay?), there are some cool recipes for stuff that looks like cold enamel in "Frames with Flair," by Suzanne McNeill
......... the author mixes 1/2 water-based polyurethane (like Varathane) with 1/2 acrylic paint
....Also, for a dimensional look that can be applied with squeeze bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking soda to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp paint. MJ

could do this faux vinyl technique with liquid clay?...(like an ink blot?) .... beautimous stuff, wasn't it??
...lesson using thinned acrylic paints on freezer paper: http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_paper_crafts_boxes/article/0,,hgtv_3289_1376364,00.html
(see more in Paints > Acrylic > More Uses)
...lesson using tacky white glue mixed with a little acrylic paint to create sheets of pattern http://crafterspick.com/02vinyl.html
...(see Kathy R's similar technique for making a texture plate with 3-D or smooth texture paint on folded cardstock by letting the acrylic paint set in the air a bit to firm in Textures > Making your own)

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(temporary location)

ACRYLIC MEDIUMS...+ acrylic gels & pastes
(acrylic gel mediums, gel mediums, polymer mediums, etc.)
like clear white glue????

from Golden http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medsadds/gels/geldiff.php
With so many products of which to be aware, it does become quite a task to keep them all straight. However, there are a few general distinctions that once remembered make the whole group of gels and mediums seem much less difficult to understand.
...The main property that differentiates a majority of products is viscosity - that is, how thick or thin a product is. This is what actually separates the gels from the mediums. The mediums are the thinner products, while the gels are thicker, having higher viscosities. The mediums are thin enough to be pourable, while the gels are not.
...The second key property is reflectance or sheen. ....may feel very similar in consistency, but will dry with different sheens.
gels and modeling pastes
Gels can be thought of as colorless paints, as they are composed of similar polymers as are the acrylic paints. They may be considered the "glue" or binder that dry to form continuous, durable films. They are made of 100% acrylic polymers which have proven to have excellent flexibility and chemical, water and ultraviolet radiation resistance. Pastes contain Marble Dust or Diatomatious Earth, clays or other fillers resulting in a white or clay-tone finish. Different pastes have been formulated to contain specific properties. See each description for further information.

acrylic mediums:
... put out by both "Golden" and "Liquitex" brands (...available at craft stores and art supply stores)..Do not mix with oils. Paint on any non-oily surface. Abrade non-absorbent surfaces for increased adhesion. Minimum film formation temperature is 49°F/9°C. Avoid freezing. Cleans readily with soap and water.
....come in all sort of textures & stiffnesses...... and gloss through matte
...the various types can be mixed together
....can be used on paper, canvas, or polymer clay, etc.
...they form durable films when dry which are flexible and water/chemical/UV resistant... very low shrinkage
....they dry slowly by evaporation ...take about 24 hours to dry-cure completelyWhile acrylics surface dry, or skin over very quickly (sometimes within minutes), they typically take much longer, sometimes months, to thoroughly dry. Obviously, the thicker the film, the slower it is to dry.(see http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medsadds/gels/geluses.php for drying details)
... dry clear to translucent (depending upon thickness) .... looks white in container
For purposes of controlling transparency of paints, adding gels and/or mediums offers a useful tool. Nearly all gels and paste are effective for this purpose, with the exception of those that are opaque (the Pumices and Molding Pastes). The Gloss Gels are most effective, especially when highly transparent glazes are desired, and the glazes are to be applied thickly (greater than 1/8 inch wet film thickness). The Matte and Semi-Gloss products will increase the translucency of the paint, but will not yield genuinely transparent glazes
Be aware that nearly all acrylics have a propensity to foam and get air trapped within them. This can be most dramatic when applying glazes and various translucent effects. Therefore, it is important to take proper precautions and to handle the materials carefully. This includes: avoid shaking, do not whip or stir excessively, refrain from generating a vortex during mechanical mixing and pour and handle slowly and carefully. .
...have excellent adhesive qualities so can be used as glue when used alone
Another frequent use of such products is as a glue for collaging materials together. This technique is valuable when collaging any materials to which the water-based acrylics have no difficulty bonding. Certain materials, such as glass and certain metals and plastics, should be avoided. Because of their greater binding capabilities, the Gloss products are the preferred choices for gluing collaging materials; however the other sheens function at satisfactory levels. Generally, we recommend the Soft Gel Gloss for collaging.
INCLUSIONS:
...discrete inclusions like glitter, etc., can be added
....add to acrylic paints to extend them ( so that they go farther and cost less)
.....add almost any paint or paint pigment to tint them..... will look very pale before drying though
........when added to acrylic paint, they alter the paint's
..........appearance (shiny, matte)
...........handling characteristics
Another frequent use of the gels and pastes is to alter the consistency or body of the acrylic paints
...............e.g., increase tackiness-tooth... or increase transparency and brilliance
...............or on fabric, control bleeding and allow smoother application, etc.
...........volume (viscosity or thickness, vs. runniness) to create many different effects
................sculptural effects can be achieved with the thicker ones (pastes?)
A common use of the thicker gels or pastes is to build relief, or 3-dimensionality, onto the support. For this, GOLDEN Heavy Gels, Extra-Heavy Gels, High Solid Gels and Molding Pastes are valuable tools.
......crackle mediums?

about.com's photo of various acrylic mediums to see their thicknesses and effects
http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniaturebasics/tp/basematerials.htm (click on View Larger under Acrylic Mediums photo)

about.com's info about acrylic mediums
http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniaturebasics/ig/Acrylic-Paint-Mediums

as a finish
One final point to make about the use of gels is that all of these products are NOT recommended as final picture varnishes. Generally speaking, these products do not have to proper balance of properties for such application. They are all either too soft, too hard, wrong consistency, or they simply foam up too much to be a clear topcoat.
...A final property that all lack is that of removability. None of the gels are truly removable

listing of the various types of acrylic mediums (& their characteristics and what they're often used for):
http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/18a/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=213
...Gel Medium ...used to extend acrylic paint, alone as an adhesive (see Glues > other glues), and as a clear finish
...Heavy Gel ... Matte Gel
...Gloss Medium... Matte Medium... Iridescent Tinting Medium
...Glazing Medium... Matte Varnish ...High Gloss Varnish ....Gloss Varnish Flexible Surface
...Acrylic Slow-Dri Medium
...Super Heavy Modeling Paste

You can run it through just about any cake-decorating tip to make designs. It's available at art supply stores, and I know Michael's has it. Barb

--see Paints > Acrylic Gel Mediums for more)
http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/18a/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=213 (Liquitex mediums and explanations of types?)
(Glues .. misc Cements)

Acrylic Polymer Mediums (no baking needed)
(decals or direct?)

Carol Duvall's explanation of using an acrylic polymer medium (since the 70's --before photocopies, etc.) for transferring images without heat from newspapers, magazines, books . . . even baseball cards, onto glass, wood, canvas and even stones (this takes 5-6 coats, drying 30 min. between each) and overnight to transfer and 20 min-sev.hrs to soak)... she used the Liquitex brand but there are other brands available at art supply (and craft?) stores. Several "transfer" products have come along since then which are basically acrylic polymer medium and work in the same way (Picture This, etc.). (She also mentions transfer papers which could be later used with photocopies, but doesn't mention liquid clay which wasn't around then)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_hobbies_interests/article/0,,HGTV_3121_1382895,00.htmlCarol Duvall also has a show where she makes a clear decal transfer (onto clear tape) by using an image from photocopy or ("non-glossy"?) magazine image ,etc. ...pressing it onto clear packing tape, then soaking and rubbing the paper off... ...if you want to transfer a picture larger than the 3" tape, try a laminating sheet instead ....she says to adhere it to another surface (if there isn't sufficient residual tackiness), use "gel medium" (or any white glue?)... note that transfer image will be shiny from the tape covering
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_paper_crafts/article/0,1789,HGTV_3287_2856795,00.html
(see more on the types of acrylic mediums in Paints > Acrylics > acrylic mediums)

USE with clay:
...in place of Flecto or liquid clay as a clear medium to tint or add inclusions to
...in place of other clear finishes to seal or give gloss, etc. (same strength though?)
...make transfers?
...use as adhesive?

Perfect Paper Adhesive is just a gel medium???
PPA adheres to virtually any non-oily surface, including wood, paper, glass, polymers, mica, and acrylic. It has a smooth, non-sticky consistency, which sets it apart from any other adhesive. Non-sticky means cleaner hands and cleaner artwork. PPA dries to a totally transparent matte or gloss finish. Water resistant, flexible, and durable, it is considered a museum-quality adhesive and medium. Uses include: collage, decoupage, assemblage, montage, sizing for papermaking, glass painting and glass decoupage, and impression lifts (transfers???).

(I originally was using it to make scales from my dragons)

(MOKUME) Jami Miller told me about putting a layer of Pearl-ex mixed with acrylic gel medium in your mokume stack. You probably would get more intense color this way, whichever powder is used. Randi

the same as acrylic gel medium??) the Acylic modeling paste, or a product called Form-it, a plastic mousse. It's perfect for light weight sculptures and landscapes. (see also Liquid Sculpey, Diluent paste, etc.)--could use as an armature?
~The brand (of modeling paste) I have used for a design class and as grout for some pc mosaics is Liquitex. It is found in the same area as the Gel Medium and Gesso i.e. among the painting supplies. Kat
~I have done 3-d sculptures, etc on wood....using Modeling Paste.....It is just the right consistency to go thru the cake decorating tubes. . . .

Translucent (& Gold) "Embossing " Paste (remove from page it's on, or at least substitute new version below)

Flexible, bakeable, and compatible with polymer clay... Dreamwaver Embossing Paste can be used "as embellishment or as an inclusion, (in waht?), and can be mixed with all sorts of micas and glitters for some extra-special effects.
...some of the ways it's been used: fairy wings, adding color or texture, as a sealer, and even as a transfer medium!"
http://www.puffinalia.com/embossingpaste/paste.html
...Linda (of Puffinalia) showed us this new product she has started carrying --translucent embossing paste ....it differs from liquid clay in that it seems to be more transparent once it dries (especially when applied thicker) (it's white when it's wet) and it is a paste--the thickness means it doesn't flow like liquid clay does, so once you put it somewhere, it stays.
... It would tear somewhat easily, it does have some elasticity to it (once it's dry, of course)... but if I keep pulling on it, it will break apart (you could roll it into a jellyroll without it cracking though).... It wouldn't take too much "wear and tear" I don't think unless it was sealed in something.
....I don't know how thick it can get before it's no longer transparent . . .and I don't know how easy it would be to cut though.
...I sprinkled some multi-colored extra fine glitter into it and spread it thinly on a tile and let it dry. Then I used a snowflake paper punch to punch out some snowflakes that I pressed into some raw clay. Pamela
...Meredith discovered that you can add a second layer to the back of a dried layer and it strengthens the wings she was making for her dolls. caneguru
... I think it could also be used as part of a layering technique--maybe to create a faux dichroic look, or at least an interesting look--putting either liquid clay or a thin layer of translucent clay over it and then sanding and polishing it might look really neat.
.....I know Linda mentioned using it for fairy wings and things like that
....instead of spreading it onto a tile to dry, you could probably just spread it on raw clay to dry --I'll try that later....Pamela
...My (whole) caned butterfly piece is sealed with the Puffin's clear embossing paste. Kathi
...I really want to try the transfer technique to see how it looks/works vs. Golden's soft gel medium. Lexy

I was sort of thinking (Gold embossing paste) looked liked parrot spooge right out of the jar....but boy howdy....I dry brushed in one area of my pendant with the gold, and it really made it pop! ...so I am hooked on it. Kathi

Can this be thinned with water (gold or translucent?)... and if so, do you think if you stirred it a lot it would make bubbles/foam? MelissaJ
...Haven't tried that yet.... caneguru

(see also: Other Materials for cold enamel cloisonne... Covering for plastics affected by heat or by liquid clay storage... Glues... Finishes... Powders
... Paints... ClayGun for Air Pen... Faux Many for raku? )

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