General info
Temperatures & times for baking
Ovens (regular,toaster,convection)
Thermometers, testing your oven
Materials to bake on ...various
.......keeping flat items flat
Support during baking (propping)
...+ insulating (powders, etc.)
Darkening, scorching, & burning
.....avoiding darkening ... gen.
.....partially enclosing (draping... tenting)
.........summary of more ways to avoid darkening
.... enclosed baking (completely enclosed)
.....heat sinks to even out the whole oven temp.
.....baking taller pieces
.....remedies for burned items
Multiple baking, partial baking
Ice water plunge (quenching) for shine
Brief high heat for shine
Using tiles for high shine
Other ways to cure (or partially cure/stabilize)
....covered elec. roasters, frying pans, crockpots...+ solar ovens, heat guns, traveling, etc.
....stovetop "baking" in covered sauce pan w/ plaster
....boiling + microwave-boiling ... + "shine"
....controversies re curing temps, polymerization, etc.

BAKING

Generally, polymer clay is baked in a normal home oven (regular or convection).
. . . some people have claimed it can also be boiled (on the stovetop or in a microwave)... for more about these methods, see below in "Boiling"...however, for sure do not microwave without covering plenty of water!

Regular home ovens can certainly be used for baking polymer, but clayers who end up doing a lot of baking usually buy a toaster oven or convection oven. There are several reasons for this.
...There are smells from the baking clay which are totally normal (some clays smell stronger than others), so it can be more pleasant to put the (toaster) oven in the garage, outdoors, bathroom, or in another room, if you can and if you’re doing a lot of baking (see below for more on ovens).
......one way around this is to use "enclosed" baking . . . (see below for "enclosed" baking options). ..
.......I also found that baking soda will absorb smells in the oven (while I was baking clay in a pile of it). Helayne
.......other powders like cornstarch or flour, etc. can completely enclose the item too, and may prevent some smells? (see Propping below)
Also, something (possibly plasticizers from the clay) will eventually build up on the walls of the oven, and some people worry about baking food items in the oven afterward (see Safety-Cleaning for the discussions about this).

IMPORTANT:
..It's important to bake at a high enough temperature for at least the mininum time recommended to be sure that the clay will not crumble or leach plasticizer days or months later
.....so, make sure your oven is actually heating to the temp. that's indicated on its dial, that it stays at that temp, and that you bake long enough for the thickness of your particular clay item, etc. (...and see below if you're at high altitude**)
........ovens can vary up to 80 ° between the time the heating element goes off and it goes back on again (as much as 5 minutes). leigh

Any of the clays will crumble later if not baked properly...
...(raw) clay is full of plastisizers, they keep the clay soft... when you bake, you bake them off... but if you don't bake long enough, you don't kill off (solidify) all of the plastisizers... and when you take it out of the oven and the piece cools down, the plastisizors start to recover, and they go back to work starting to soften the clay... (because there are only a few of them left, it takes a lot longer, but eventually some of the clay gets soft and the piece will now get brittle and fragile... if it is then dropped, it might just fracture and crack and the least little pressure will break it apart!!!....
.......also those nasty plastisizors stay your hands also, and they love to eat the shine off of beautiful shiny finishes on finished pieces, so you shouldn't pick up anything with a beautiful finish on it without washing your hands eather!! leigh
....(see below under "Multiple and Partial Baking", for opinions on whether partial baking creates a serious problem later... controversial)

In general, baking longer will result in a "stronger" clay item though the temp must not exceed the correct baking temp at any point (which is really hard to do --convection ovens usually work better for this).
...Baking longer at the same temp is not an option for the Sculpeys though because they darken even at correct temps (unless they'rll be painted over so darkness doesn't matter)... Kato clays will handle higher heats or temp fluctuations the easist.... Premo and the Fimos in-between
(...baking longer can be done at lower temps though since temp and time are interdependent for thermosetting plastics like polymer clay... see Controversies below for more).

for baking at high altitudes (over 3500'), see important info. below under Times and Temps.

how to tell if the clay is "done" after baking:
... it's important to know that polymer clays will all be somewhat soft when first removed from heating
....... they won’t reach their final hardness & stiffness until they're completely cool

AFTER COOLING:
...it's also a common misconception that polymer clay will be rock hard after baking and cooling (like earth clay will be)... in fact, the surface of a baked and cooled polymer bead can actually be dented with a fingernail if it's pressed really hard (this isn't really a problem, because after awhile clayers don't expect a hard ceramic feel for polymer clay)
...also, any thin baked clay will actually be flexible... this flexibility doesn't seem to be a problem most of the time
(.........for ways to stiffen thin clay when needed, see Characteristics > "Strength & Flexibility")
......most of the polymer clay brands are similar in this flexibility with the exception of Sculpey (Sculpey, SuperSculpey, Sculpey III) and now also probably the new version of FimoSoft
.......those actually feel "harder" after baking which can be good, but unfortunately flexibility is also lost and along with it much of their ability to withstand stress (they will break or chip more easily if stressed)
......Premo, FimoClassic, Cernit, and Kato will be a little rubberier in feel after baking, but much stronger & more flexible
......(however, remember that fairly rounded shapes of any brand will be difficult to break just because of the inherent strength of the shape... but in thin or projecting areas, the Sculpeys & FimoSoft will be brittle)

Tallie created a baking surface for any pins with dimensional parts on the back side of an otherwise flat piece (...baking a pinback with a pin, for example, can cause the whole pin to bend-slump during baking)
... to avoid that, she makes a shallow box top and cuts a rectangular slot out of it, then she lays the piece on the box top so that the non-flat part sticks through (....would be especially good for larger pieces where fiberfill can't keep the item flat enough)
http://www.talliesplace.com/html/tools.html

Baking after sanding & buffing does affect the shine some, but all it takes is a quick rebuff and there you are, as shiny or shinier than before. DottyinCA

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FOR MORE INFO ON:
...how to bake other materials with clay (and whether they can withstand the oven heat), see the Covering page (under glass, plastics, metal, wood, paper, etc.)
......also baking eyepins and other connectors along with the clay, see Jewelry > Connectors.... Pendants-Cording > Top Loops
......also which glues and finishes can be baked right on polymer, see Glues... Liquid Clays.... Finishes

The minimum time required for curing is generally 15-20 mins per quarter- inch of thickness (at the thickest spot)
...some clayers also bake longer than the minimum time because they feel it makes the clay items stronger
...theoretically polymer clays can bake for days as long as they're maintained at exactly the correct temp (which is really hard to do given the fluctuations and hot spots of most ovens --but that's one reason "enclosed" baking works so well since it keeps that correct temp. much more easily)
...the light-colored clays (esp. Sculpeys) will darken more quickly than others, as will translucents or any clays with translucent in their makeup (not always obvious)

temperatures recommended by manufacturers (...slightly different for different brands):
... 230 -265 ° for the newest versions of the Fimos (see below for more*** )
... 275 ° for Premo & for Sculpey** (i.e., Sculpey , SuperSculpey, Sculpey III)
.......285 ° for Bake & Bend, and maybe other specialty Sculpeys?)
...275 -325 ° for Kato Polyclay (see Char's > Kato for details on which to use when)
..."between 215 and 270 ° " for Cernit (figures given on pkg)

***Eberhard Faber has changed the formulation of FimoClassic and FimoSoft (and their doll clays) --2007... these have gold on the packages
...the new version is softer and stays soft on the shelves (changed because some customers thought it was too crumbly)
...the package recommends baking the new clay at 230º (110º C)
...... BUT clayers have found that the old temp of 265º results in a stronger product for baking the new clay or mixes with the old clay
.........(2007) Eberhard Faber chemists and others have said that the new formulation does bake satisfactorily at (265º F) 130º C, and is stronger at that temperature. However, baking temperature (recommended on the package label) is judged by automated machines in the lab. The EU officials who regulate these things prefer to believe the machines rather than the judgement of human beings. That is why the label advises baking at (230º) 110º. Pat, Phillippa, Angie
......... if baked at 265, the colors won't darken any more than before
.............however, some colors (translucents & light ones) always darken more easily (in most brands), so Fimo Soft's Translucent, Glow-in-the-dark, white with glitter, pearl and white may all need a slightly lower temperature (or tenting-enclosing?)
.....(the burning temp may be lower than the usual 385 for mixes or new Fimo's?)

However, time and temperature seem to be interdependent for the thermosettng type plastics.
--i.e., for every 10 C (18 F) increase, the polymerization rate will double-- see Contrversies below for info on using other times and temps
(so clays can be baked longer at lower temps rather than qicker at higher temps, but the temp will still be critical to avoid darkening especially for some clays)

**high altitude baking (over 3500-5000')
You will have to raise the temperature & also bake longer, just as you would for baking foods (true for any brand).
....I live at over 5000 ft ---I called the chemists at Polyform way back when because my things were not getting "done" ...pins would crack, polymerization was not complete.
.......He suggested that I bake at least 5 &deg hotter, and a little longer for altitudes over 3500-5000'
.......I use Premo almost exclusively, and now bake at 300 ° F for a half hour each 1/4" of thickness of the piece. Sarajane
....I live at high altitude - 7,600 feet above sea level. When I first got really serious with clay, using Premo, it was breaking on me all the time, and I got very upset. I wrote to Polyform and was told that I need to bake my clay at 300 ° (for 30 minutes per 1/4" of clay thickness) to properly cure it ...my baked clay is now completely cured and very strong and I never have any problem with breakage
..... I keep two thermometers in my oven to be sure it stays at 300 °
......for clayers who live above 35000, it is very important to know this information so that there isn't a lot of clay breakage and frustration. Jackie S
....(for translucent, I do tend to bake at just a bit under 300F)

**Some clays or clay brands darken more easily than others, so sometimes these should be baked at slightly lower temps and definitely not too long
....most translucent clays will darken more easily
...............for over 3500 ft, though, just a bit under 300 F has been recommended for translucents
....the lighter colors of the Sculpeys (Sculpey, SuperSculpey, and Sculpey III) tend to darken more easily than other brands
....... and bulk white Sculpey actually turns a bit purplish rather than brown, with higher temps
(see techniques for avoiding darkening below in "Darkening")

To help keep ovens at the correct temperature (especially smaller ovens), if needed
....see below in Using Tiles to Steady the Temperature and also Enclosed Baking
....since I keep my toaster oven in the garage to avoid baking smells, I notice that on cold days I'll have to set the temp gauge higher in order to get it up to the proper baking temp. Diane B.

For toaster ovens especially, pre-heat before putting your items in because many ovens will spike over the desired temp to quickly bring the whole oven up to the set temp.

partial baking --controversy:
...I've noticed this phenomenon too....when I do a short 10-minute preliminary baking (at the normal temp), the final product, even though baked again for 30 minutes, is not as strong as something cured the first time for 30 minutes (true only for thicker items though ??).
...I understand that the molecules in the clay do not FULLY fuse if not baked at the recommended temp for the minimum recommended time, even if very thin,
and that the time is not cumulative, meaning it must be in one session ....so if you are working on a piece and bake at a lower temp to partially cure so you can add on, that is fine. But you must then do a final bake for the entire time (and remember then to take into consideration the thickness of the piece). Jenny P.
...The first bake (at the regular temperature) (& time?) IS the most important to make sure the clay has full strength . . later bakes can be shorter though. Jody & many others
...(for more opinions on whether partial baking creates a serious problem later .see below under "Multiple and Partial Baking")

Some people feel that (some or all) polymer clays can be baked differently, or at diff. temps, than recommended by manufacturers -- though these may require stringent baking conditions (so the clays won't darken too much,e.g.).
...Others believe one should never bake at higher than temps recommended by manufacturers.
...Others fall in the middle, or believe it can be done under some circumstances or with some clays but not others
(see Controversies below for more on temperatures & times)

1. I use the method of baking that Marie Segal taught me ...put the pieces in the oven cold...
... turn the oven on to 200 and leave the clay for about 15 min.... then turn it up to the full temp for the rest of the time for baking
....turn off the oven, and let the pieces cool in the oven
........this seems to create a greater durability, and I haven't burned or scorched anything in years
... The reasoning behind this is to bring both the inside and outside of the clay up to the 200 temp first, and then the final higher baking temp to complete polymerization... the slow cool is like annealing (sp?) glass beads or ceramics. syndee

2. flash baking for smaller pieces?... baking at 325 for 10 min (...no longer though)
....I have heard that this type of curing gives far stronger and more flexible clay (325 is still below the "burning" temp of clay)
....will work for smaller pieces-- maximum of about 3/8" thick at most, and 2" long
... It is not recommended for larger pieces though because the heat will not have time to penetrate to the centre
....this works for Premo, but not for Sculpey III which will scorch
....this process seems to take the pieces up to a quick bonding

3. personally, I bake blends of Premo, Fimo, Kato and Cernit at 300°F in a home oven, or Oster toaster oven (not translucent, which I bake at 265, or Sculpey clays though) ... (if blends are mostly Kato brand, this temp would be fine anyway...or especially in a convection oven... not sure most ovens would be okay. DB)
...I have baked pieces that were white, ecru, pastels, other light colors at 300°F for over an hour (in one bake period--and sometimes with multiple bakes the total time has been over 3 hours)
...the key to baking at this temp is to use a traditional mercury style (liquid enclosed in glass tube ) oven thermometer... and to know your oven & check it every 10-15 min. SL Savarick
(.....see more of Seth's tips --and another method for baking at 290 ° in an aluminum roaster with two 6" tiles on the bottom:
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/baking_equipment.html )

clay can develop cracks (large or small) while baking, or cooling
...this is especially true for larger, solid clay items (more than 3/4" thickness), but there are other reasons too
(see Heads > Cracking for a full discussion of reasons, and baking techniques to avoid cracks).

OVENS & THERMOMETERS

The choices are: a large home oven (built-in or freestanding), a toaster oven (preferably in the garage or outside if possible), and a convection oven.

Many people prefer convection ovens because they feel the temperature is more even in all areas of the oven and that their items come out harder (however, these are expensive, and most toaster ovens will work just fine as long as the temp is correct).
....Convection ovens do cook food about 25% faster than regular ovens, so it's possible that using one with clay also strengthens it by baking the equivalent of "longer."

regular ovens

Many people use a regular home oven (with range, or wall mounted).

Since you're getting a new studio, why not buy a large oven? (and use it freestanding)
.....(mine is only a little smaller than a regular oven, but a good bit larger than a convection oven...it doesn't have a range
.....it's the kind that's usually installed in a lower counter, in some older kitchens.
.....I have mine in the laundry room, just down the hall from my studio, and with an outside door for ventilation.
.....You can probably find these used, cheap. Irene
..I would like to have more room to bake large items (like wall art, kaleidscopes, etc) than my convection oven offers, but are these types of ovens gas or electric, or both?....And if electric are they 220? Dotty in CA

Is this the same as a wall oven? (also used in a freestanding way)

I was able to buy a fairly large broiler oven for six bucks at a Value Village, our local thrift shop....yard sales are also a good source. Sharyn

(Is the water vapor part significant for polymer clay??)
...(I liked gas cooktops,) ..."but for cooking in an oven, I prefer the precise regulation and drier heat of an electric burner... gas oven by-products include water vapor." Mike

(see "Other Ways to Cure Polymer" sub-category below for other "oven" units and baking units)

toaster ovens

When buying a toaster oven, make sure it isn't "self-cleaning." Those will automatically spike the temp...
.....I've heard this before as well, and I think some ovens used to (or maybe still do) periodically "spike" to a high temperature in order to burn food splatters off the oven walls. (I would think this would risk toasting your dinner as well as burning food ON the oven walls, though...)
...When I bought (was given, actually) an old convection oven at a yard sale, it said "Continuous Cleaning" on it, so I called the manufacturer for information. I was told that the wording referred to the fact that the oven interior had a non-stick coating -- it had nothing to do with the temperature -- and I have since found this to be true; it's a wonderful little clay oven. Bonnie

I purchased some of the 'best' toaster ovens ---at least more expensive toaster ovens-- and had a lot more trouble than with the cheapest ones which ended up being the best. I think part of the problem is that some of the more expensive ones are continuous cleaning and they spike continuously to clean. . . .the four more expensive toaster ovens were not even close to the temperatures that they should be.
....I've tried almost every toaster oven I could find....The $79.99 was the very worst and heated to 450 ° even when set at 200 °. My husband almost went nuts because he could not believe was not doing something right. But when he would try them (and use two diff. thermometers) and never get the same temperature left on the same setting, he finally believed me. . . .
.....(Plain old toasters are the same here. We must have purchased at least two a year and we always end up going back to the old types. The new ones just aren't consistent.) Jeanne R.

Someone suggested taking your thermometer with you to shop for ovens
... then ask if you can plug in your possible choices to check their temps somewhere in the store before purchasing, to avoid having to return them.
(...or steel yourself to the thought that you just may have to return a few before getting one you really like)

I have had very good luck with my Hamilton Beach OvenMaster, Model #31215. I purchased it about two years ago at Target for around $29 (it was on sale). Once it's preheated, it holds the temperature evenly, and the top element never comes back on to burn my objects. (As a matter of fact, it holds the temperature more evenly than my Faberware convection oven -- but I don't know if that's because the toaster oven is so good or the convection oven is faulty.) Shelly

I also bought the Oster large toaster oven with a timer on it for teaching..... it also has a large capacity
.......I have never burned anything in it so it doesn't spike. With the built in timer I can teach and not worry about watching the clock to take something out of the oven..... At Target it was under $60. Karen in FL
... I love my Oster too! Seth
... Now I have an Oster and love it. It has the timer and shuts off at the set time and I've never had it spike. It takes about 7 min. to warm up to my set temp. and stays there. If you can't get a convection then I recommend the Oster. It might cost a bit more but is well worth it. Nancy

I got a Euro Pro--it does very well at maintaing temp. MRS

Chroma-Tex oven...the URL does not state the interior dimensions, but it looks small. The site does state that it, the oven, is specifically for PC.. .. anybody used it? Bill
...looks like just a regular toaster oven that someone is trying to market to pc consumers.... I believe if you look around you will find a toaster oven at a better price, no s&h. Valerie

The oven is almost perfect. It is a Toastmaster Model TTOB4. Even though it was not expensive, it has features that make me think it was made just for us. You will need a good oven thermometer because the temperature gauge on the oven is a little off. But once you have it adjusted, the temperature is extremely consistent. The best part, though, is that the toaster oven has a 30 minute timer. I can set it for 20 minutes and a bell rings to tell me it has preheated to the desired temperature. Then, when I bake, I can set it for as long as I need (up to 30 minutes) and it will turn itself off after that time. . . . highly recommend this product to anyone who is thinking of purchasing a dedicated oven for clay. Dottie Hobbs
.......just doing a search on Amazon.com - brought up a small oven offered by Target that sells for $24.99 and has a 30 min. timer built in. mcs
...I bought a Toastmaster model 315..... It bakes about 70 ° above what is set on the dial and spikes extremely. I have to pull out all the tricks to get my stuff baked without burning. Before this one I had a Black and Decker, but I don't know what model and it was the best!! I never had a problem with it.

I remember reading a magazine article (I'm thinking it was Polymer Cafe, but not sure) and it was written by a well-known polyclayer ...she does a lot of traveling and has used a LOT of toaster/convection type ovens over the years.....I do remember the one she said NOT to get, and that's a Black and Decker. The reason being: temperature spikes..... Out of ALL the ovens, Black and Decker is THE one oven you can't trust not to spike! You could cure pieces in it for a month with your thermometer in it and it may be perfect. but eventually it WILL spike, according to that woman. Curika

Yes you can get toaster ovens here (in England)! Just look in your latest Argos catalogue (page 389) sometimes called mini ovens. Looks like a small microwave. New they are about £40 to £100, but I did manage to get one at a car boot sale (garage sale) for £1. I figured it was worth a pound to try even if it didn't work. Cleaned it up, put in a thermometer to check the temperature (which actually cost me more than the oven) and it worked fine. Shelley
... a toaster oven size would be around 50cmX25cmX35cm (could of course be smaller or bigger) so size-wise, it can be put anywhere you want ...on my visits to England I have seen different brands with different sizes. ruthyr

another suggestion: I have a convection oven that is dedicated for use with PC, and what I do is place it on my stove UNDER the vent hood (and turn it on)..... Even when baking liquid clay, we smell nothing. Patti

I keep my toaster oven in the garage .... and I notice that on cold days I have to set the temp higher in order to get it up to the proper baking temp. Diane B.

One thing to remember -- because the toaster oven is small, whenever the door is left open for more than a few seconds, it loses heat rapidly. So, after removing a batch, allow the oven a few minutes to come back up to temperature before putting in the next batch. (This is true for all toaster ovens.) Shelly

using a "heat sink" of some kind in the bottom a toaster oven will also help to keep the temperature exact, without spiking (see below in Using Tiles, etc., to Steady the Temp)

convection ovens

Ovens which don't have exposed heating elements and do have a fan that blows the heat created by the hidden elements around the inside of the baking area, are generally called "convection" ovens (even though technically, ordinary ovens bake with both "radiant" heat and "convection").

Convection ovens cure the clay more evenly all over because the hot air is really well circulated around the whole interior, so no hot spots.
... a convection oven brings food or clay itself up to the ambient air temperature inside the oven quicker than a normal oven would
....the fan is actually blowing away the cooler air that surrounds the surface of the clay (or food), allowing the heat to get to that surface quicker and more evenly

My translucent and white clays didn't turn color at all in the convection oven. Joy

The description of a Cuisinart convection oven on the website showed: "Convection, uses a fan to gently circulate heat, cooking "up to 30% faster" & more evenly." The 30% faster cooking is what I am concerned about. Lynn
...if something requires 15 minutes in a regular oven, it might only need 10-12 minutes in a convection oven
......but that's not an issue for clay baking because exceeding the length of bake time isn't a problem. Desiree
...It's the actual temperature that's important for polymer clay and the temperature isn't any higher in a convection oven than a regular one... it's just that the just the evenness and consistency of the temperature inside the whole oven is maintained better. So it's fine to use the same amount of time in a convection oven that would be used in a regular oven.

....Convection oven temps do vary a bit... I set mine so it won't go over 300 more than a few °, but always reaches 275 for some time. I'm not concerned if it drops lower for short periods of time
....... I used not only an oven thermometer, but test strips as well.... I marked each setting on the dial, and wrote down the setting and the different temps that it gave me over a period of a half an hour. Then I put in test strips at each setting. When they were cool, I checked to see if they were really well done (tough to break or tear) or slightly fragile, or more so.
...however, if your oven's temperature is different each time you turn it on (at the same exact setting) then there is definitely something wrong and you should certainly return any oven that's doing that.
....... I just want to allay anyone's fears about the fluctuations that are a normal part of most all convection ovens. Dotty in CA

I now have two settings that I use most of the time.
....One reaches 275 a good part of the time (I use Premo) ...so far nothing has burned, and no breakage after baking
....I turn it up to the second setting for the last 5 minutes or so when I have used some liquid clay, but even if I don't do this and reach 300 ° the liquid clay still looks great and can be clarified more by plunging the piece into ice water when very hot and then sanding and buffing....the 300 degree bake makes this a bit easier, however.

(air blowing around inside ...oops)
...she had bought a round convection oven, the kind you can cook a chicken or turkey in (sort of standing on end.)
.....she made a half dozen clay-covered (hollow) eggs and put them into the oven and turned it on. A while later she came back to check them out and low and behold they were whirling around and around as if caught in a tornado. Guess the clay covering was too thin to weight them down.... No damage done, though. Dotty in CA
...might be a good idea to wrap the eggs in tissues or cotton fabric... maybe putting something heavier in the bottom of the wrap to give them just enough weight not to blow around, or wedge the covered egg(s) into an open box or between two mugs, or tape the wrapping down, etc.
.. clay items hanging on sticks, in glasses, or other ways have a tendency to dance and swing
... ... if they aren't isolated somehow, they may also bang into each other or knock each other over
...things on the top shelf blow around, so I only fire heavy stuff there and I fire lighter stuff on the bottom
..... if and if I have nothing on the top, I use a tile on the shelf which kind of blocks the bottom shelf from the wind effect
...I didn't have any problem with the polyester stuffing as long as something is on it to hold it down. Judi
....if you use paper or parchment to avoid shiny spots, you've got to weight its corners
...With the really small pieces, I found putting them on ceramic tiles works well (they kind of get stuck on). Judi
...(use an enclosed method)... with convection ovens put your item in a disposable aluminum pie pan, put another disposable pie pan turned over on top of it and clip it shut, that'll keep the air from blowing your mini things about. Nora Jean
...when stuff like embossing powder was involved, the blowing air issue was problematic . Irene
....shrink plastic also isn't a good idea because of the wind. …faun
(....you still need to make sure you prop things like arms and tails just like in a normal oven)

My nine-year old (older) convection, which has always baked perfectly, is aging now and I find that the temperature tends to creep up.... So I check the thermometer with each load, about 10 minutes into the baking, then make adjustments if I have to. Dotty in CA

The manual for this convection oven uses Asian characters..... It took me a while to figure out how to assemble it, and I have this metal thingie that I'm not sure WHAT it's for. Laurel

My solution to geting a good convection oven might help... I frequent estate sales. Most of the time there are all of the kitchen appliances available cheap.
...You do have to be careful.. ask if you can check it out, and bring a themometer.... I got my convection oven for $30, and it was so clean it looked brand new. Patricia in Tx

Some of these are often offered on E-bay. Just be cautious, and check out the seller's ratings if you go that way. Dotty
....I've heard a lot of people have had problems buying a convection oven on e-Bay. ....these items are not under the "as is" law, and are expected to be able to be used for the purpose they are purchased. (And that shipping amount is outrageous. I've finally stopped buying from anyone who charges more than a few bucks more than the actual postage). DottyinCA
....I second what Dotty sez! I've had good and bad experiences with sellers and these ovens on ebay. . A couple friends of mine received broken ovens as well....my advise is ask questions first! Georgana

Another thing to think of with the Welbilt, and maybe other convection oven brands, is that they have heating elements on the top AND bottom of the oven. You need to be careful which setting you choose, as some use top element, some use bottom, some use both, and some use alternating. I use the "roast" which I believe activates the bottom element. . . Between the elements I have the pan it came with as well as 2 tiles so there is no direct heat coming from the element. If I had broil on, I know it would scorch whatever was in there, no matter what temp it was set at. Lori

The kids and I enjoy claying in the car (on vacation) and the small convection oven fits under the car seat to bake up what we create. I have used the car dashboard to warm/soften clay.

specific brands

Hamilton Beach convection oven, model 31197....I picked one up at Sams Club the other day. kathie
....I love my Hamilton Beach. I got mine at Target for $88, but don't know the model number. Lynn
....I have that model...itt holds a steady temp like nobody's business...shuts off when the timer rings. Mine, at least, is very dependable, & I like the size. Marla
....I have a Hamilton Beach Model 31198 that I purchased from Target last December and I like it very much....keeps the temperature accurate and is very roomy (I'm guessing # 31197 is probably about the same type). Janet

(Isn't it one of the no-longer-available Welbilts that's supposed to be really good??)

I have (a Welbilt from Service Merchandise) . I am on my second one, and this one is going back to the store soon They both have had very flakey thermostat/temp control. One use the 250 setting will heat the oven up to 275, the next time it may go up to 305, the next time it doesn't even get to 250, then I adjust the knob to a hair past 250 and I get 311! I have to keep an eye on it every time I bake something! And I have yet to find a place on that knob that will get to 300 and stay there. (The LS requires a temp of 300.) . . . Service Merchandise's policy is SUPPOSED to be that if a sale item is not available in the store, they are suppose to offer to ship it directly to you FREE of shipping charges. I have found some store people quite willing to honor this, others, I have had to get a bit more "persuasive" or just ask to see a manager….I have heard that this is a good oven, I guess I am just getting all the imperfect ones! :-( Kimba

This was my experience as well. I tried 2 Welbilts from Service Merchandise and returned both, ending up with a comparably priced Toastmaster which seems very steady and reliable. One of the Welbilts I got almost seemed to have no thermostat at all. Even on the lowest setting, it would zoom up to 450 in no time at all. I must say their return desk was very good about it both times. Halla

Jan 02 --I bought the large one off the Toastmaster site. I LOVE IT!!! It's so much larger than my old toaster oven. ...No hot spots, either, thanks to the fan. I recently made an 8" tall vase, and it fit very nicely in the oven. I know some people have had issues with Welbilt, and mine is still pretty new, but so far, I give it 5 out of 5 stars! . . . One surprise I found--this one really has a strong fan. If I want to tent anything with foil, I will have to weigh the ends down. Judi
...I bought a table model Toastmaster convection oven over 6 years ago. It holds more than a regular toaster oven, but I can still pick it up to take to the classes I teach. This convection oven does not blow around paper or polyfill if I use it, just a gentle air circulation. It cost right at $100
.......It has a wire rack, which I place a sheet of parchment paper on or a manila folder to place my items on...the other rack is a broiler pan with a drip rack insert. ......Under the rack in the broiler pan is where I placed some standard sized tiles ...I had measured the width and length and found a couple of tiles that would fit --no cutting necessary-- which helps maintain an even heat.Patty B.

I just heard about a toaster/convection oven by Europa at Target for about $50 that is smaller than a standard convection oven but larger than a toaster oven. I do not know any more about it, but am going to look into it. Patty

These (Farberware only?) ovens http://www.hfse.com/Farbwr.html ... if you need parts, these folks are very helpful. I myself haven't ordered from them, but friends of mine have.
....Tip: Harsh oven cleaners are NOT good to use in these ovens...mild soap and water is recommended. Georgana

comment in the description of the Cuisinart TOB-175 Convection Oven (as listed on appliances.com.): "This unit can be and has been used as a kiln for polymer clay. Please note that it is not recommended to bake clays in the same unit that will be used for food consumption." ...I don't think I've ever seen a manufacturer list the use of their item for polymer clay. I was impressed.... This convection oven apparently beeps when it reaches the temperature the user has set it to (though I would check this with my own oven thermometer,) has a timer, and shuts off after four hours of continued use (maybe a disadvantage?) Amy

the American Harvest is more accurate. And if it comes with an expansion ring like mine did, you can bake taller items. Tonja

I have the Sharp Carousel Convection-Microwave combo and have used it for cooking the clay with no problems!!!!! I have never over cooked or burnt anything in it. You cannot accidently microwave it without an effort. (There is a pad you touch for convection, and you have to touch something entirely different for combo or microwaving and they are CLEARLY labeled!) You set the temp you want each time you start it up, so there is never the worry that someone else messed with the temp settings without your realizing it. You set the timer, and it shuts off when the time is done and you don't have to worry about forgetting to turn it off on time. Can you tell I am happy with mine? ;-) I really do feel comfortable recommending it. :-) Kimba

One of the 12 qt. Nesco "roasters" uses convection (..... looks a bit like a large crockpot, but wider)
....I just LOVE my Nesco with its hidden coils! ....The lid's fan is on a separate plug, too, so I can use it with or without.... it maintains temperature great... easy to clean, too..... I got mine on eBay for $50. . . mine's turquoise (but there are other colors). I can't begin to tell you what a perfect oven this is for our purposes. Kelly

I tried a 2nd convection oven on e-bay, this time paying a little over $50 for a Jetstream w/ a plastic body & an expander ring. I eagerly clipped a candy thermometer to the tray so I could calibrate it for clay. The thing blew stronger than a blow drier for about 5 min, made an awful smell, and conked out. It never worked again. Not sure if the strong fan winds were a malfunction, or characteristic of this oven. Laurel

Our local Value City department store has Toastmaster Ultravection ovens for 30 bux.....Unfortunately my tests with it have failed miserably... The oven comes only with preset buttons and all of them are very high temps... Dave
...My sister bought one of these for me and they are NOT good for PC. These are the ultravection ovens from the 'as seen on tv' infomercials. There are no temp controls. I tried to bake some clay and about 90 seconds in, my kitchen was full of smoke....the clay was burning. They may be great for cooking pizzas but not good for pc. Christine

(info too old, unless buy at garage sale??) 7-29-00...... discussions re various good convection ovens
http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search .....then enter Re: Convection oven - need input!
in Subject field, & rec.crafts.polymer-clay in the newsgroup field

THERMOMETERS

photos of various types of thermometers
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/browse/-/289807/ref=br_lr__2/104-5966068-4359901
(click on Candy and on Oven-Frig)
...make sure any thermometer you use with clay can handle at least 200-325 °

When you first get a toaster (or other) oven, sit and watch exactly what happens as it goes through the baking time
.......this will tell you if your oven dial is accurate, or if not how much it's off
...... if your oven spikes its temp, this will show when, and for how long.
.......you can also move thermometer around to diff. places in the oven to see if you have hot spots in your oven

Once you know about the temp. of your oven, then you may want to place the thermometer in the middle, or toward the back
......or if you have trouble with some clay areas darkening, be sure to put your thermometer fairly close to the clay (rather than off to one side of the oven) because any hot spots in the oven may not register on your thermometer otherwise.

.."pre-heating"....ovens take more time than you might think to reach the temp. you've set on the dial
..."a preheat cycle only gets the oven temperature close to where you've set it... to get an accurate reading, let the oven cycle on and off at least three times, which takes about 20 minutes (in a regular size oven)". repairclinic.com
.. 'acceptable range' of operation... even the best oven thermostats have one...most manufacturers consider a thermostat in perfect working operation if it can achieve an oven temperature within 25 ° of what you've set it to... " repairclinic.com

TYPES of thermometers:
Most clayers use a $5.00 (round, dial-type, metal) oven thermometer (can buy at grocery store)
...most of these thermometers can stand alone, or hang from one of the oven's shelves

You may get even greater accuracy from a glass bulb oven thermometer (with mercury inside), which costs $8-$15 ... some have stands
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_13.asp
...some candy and/or deep-fry thermometers are the glass bulb type too
......I find candy thermometers reliable.... just lay down on the rack in front of the items curing.... I have to get up close to read it though. Valerie
....couldn't you just make a holder for your candy thermometer with polymer clay?... then it could lay on its side or stand up

digital ... probe thermometers especially (for knowing when item is fully cured)
... I just bought a new oven thermometer. It's digital, with a probe that goes in the oven and the readout part that you keep outside. It's really meant for roasts & turkeys... the thermometer has an alarm that goes off when it reaches a set temp (ie: 275 °), and, voila, no more burning!! ....It also had a timer with alarm on it. I love it. It was expensive ($24), but if it means I won't burn stuff, its well worth it. Claire
...probe thermometer, Radio Shack, $19.95 ….that one has a stand and a magnet so you can see the temperature and time display where ever it is convenient. You can set a desired temperature and time, and an alarm sounds when it is reached. The probe fits inside the oven with a 3' insulated wire coming out of the oven. (Yes, the door closes easily on it.) Patty
....I got mine in a kitchen and bath store like Bed, Bath and Beyond... leigh
...You can get them from Amazon.com. I got mine on sale there.... one good one is Pyrex... another is Taylor. Sarah
....http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/103-9078918-2147067
...I tried wrapping my probe in polymer clayand after a while it stopped working entirely (???). Lenora
......I wrapped the probe in tin foil and then a layer of clay. When it reaches 275, I know my actual pieces have cooked all the way through. Claire
.. I find the probe needs to sit INSIDE the item cooking (does not do a good job on the ambient air temp)??. Valerie
.........I just lay the sensor part on the tile I use towards the back of the oven, works fine (???). Valerie
...btw, the probes on these digital thermometers though will eventually be damaged-melt if used (frequently?) at temps over 350°

MISC:
If you have trouble reading the temperature on your thermometer
...you can add clay markers onto the thermometer next to the correct baking temp's you might want, so that you wouldn't actually have to read the numbers (....to avoid using glue which might degrade in the oven, it could probably be attached over the edge of the face or have some other mechanical hold)
......some temps you might want to mark are those for hardening Future or Varathane (200-250), baking Fimo (265), baking Premo (275), baking Kato (300-325), curing liquid clay (for a short time) (300), and maybe lower temps for all-translucent clay or for some original Sculpey or SuperSculpey
...or you could use a large, *glass* magnifying glass to see the temps more easily... it could be set into a little stand of polymer clay for holding in front of the thermometer (the farther apart they are, the greater the magnification).
.....removing one lens from strong (3.0 or higher) drug store reading glasses should also work as a magnifying glass.
.......it's also possible that a drinking glass of some kind has the right curvature to act as a magnifying lens and could be placed in front of the thermometer. Diane B.

calibrating a thermometer
...unfortunately my thermometer reads 195 ° in boiling water (212 ° *at sea level*)... so I have to keep my oven at "250" on its dial to get (about) 265 for Fimo and at "260" to get 275 for Premo. Susan
...put your candy thermometer in boiling water .... should be 212 F at sea level (or 100C) ...some may be off by 6-8 °

The quality of oven thermometers is not equal
.... Also, even if you get a good one, you'll need to replace it (????) after a few month's use... the springs in the mechanism get worn and floppy with use... no longer accurate. I buy a new one every 4-5 months. (I'm not talking about the digital probe types, just the types that are commonly found in the kitchen gadgets section). Elizabeth

TESTING your oven

calibrating an oven:
...turn on the oven to 350 ° with your oven thermometer inside
...remove the dial ...there's a slotted shaft that the dial normally sits on, so see where the slot is pointing and make note of that
...when the light goes off signaling that the oven has preheated, check your thermometer
.....if the thermometer says 300 ° instead of 350, turn the slotted shaft until it points at 300 using a screwdriver (...so when you replace the dial it should be pointing to 300 ° --it matches what's inside the oven and out.) Meredith

Someone also suggested doing an experimental bake in your oven to discover where the "hot spots" might be:

...make even-sized clay tiles from a light-colored polymer clay ..... place them in your oven in a grid-like pattern.
......bake at your usual temp, then record which ones darken the most or see if you can discern any pattern
...put samples (clay pebbles) on a tray or big piece of parchment or tin foil evenly spaced end to end and side to side. See how your oven bakes them. Does your oven brown them in any area? Or is it even?

(OR. . . . In order not to waste clay, you can lay slices of bread side by side, covering the bottom of the oven, and watch for hot spots as the bread burns- um, toasts. Nancy ... won't tell you much about your oven's temp accurary though, only the hot spots)

(....you can do this for different heights in your oven too, particularly for a toaster oven).

My oven (also has hot spots which can burn the clay).
....What I do is lay the thermometer probe or just the thermometer itself depending on the type on the tray that is being baked to get a better temp reading... I think this makes sense.. :) I haven't had any burned clay since I started doing this... Dave

Unfortunately, most toaster and regular ovens (as well as convection ovens?) can be variable in performance temp-wise, and it's really hard to know beforehand what you've got. That's why we all have oven thermometers!
......it may just be that your oven is in a drafty spot ...or that one side is just more protected than the other from the cold/heat
.........this can even happen inside when the oven is near an open window or open area... but esp. outside or in a garage
.....for outside, try locating your oven in a more generally protected area from the prevailing winds
.... or maybe put the oven in a large cardboard or wood box (leave box open on more protectedsides). Worth a try?? Diane B.

On most toaster ovens if you will place your work close to the righthand side of the oven you will have a more consistent bake. Why? Because the thermostat/sensor is on the outside of that wall.

Maureen Carlson told me in all of her classes, always put a sacrificial bit of clay in with the peice you are baking
...pull it out & let it kool (i'l put it under cold water ) then break it.... if it is crumbly it has not baked long enuf.
...slicing it hot with a razor blade will be a good indicator too.....put the rest back in and try again, or have more than one to tear up.

MATERIALS to bake on

Baking can be done on various kinds of oven-safe materials, but some things need to be kept in mind:

Polymer clay will soften slightly when it's hot, so placing clay directly on a very smooth surface (like glass, metal, alum.foil, cermic tile) will result in a shiny spot on the clay wherever the smooth surface touched it.
.....so if you don't want your baked sheets to be shiny, use something like terra cotta tiles (rather than the smooth ceramic ones), or simply place a sheet of paper between the your shiny tile or other item and the clay.
....or you can always sand off the shiny area(s) with sandpaper or steel wool --then buff a bit when necessary

Ordinary paper has about the same "texture" as baked polymer clay, so many people place their clay items on a sheet of paper
(....the paper is usually placed on top of a flat stiff surface like a tile, glass, or metal baking sheet)
.........(it may be okay to put the paper directly on the floor of some convection ovens?)
.........paper may also be accordion-folded for baking pens or beads (in the troughs)
...........accordion-folded paper can also be used to elevate other baking surfaces farther fr. lower baking coils to avoid darkening
...parchment paper is also used by many clayers
...... some of the parchment papers in the US come with a silicone coating though (...usually says on the outside of the box) ... clay baked on that type has difficulty holding findings attached later with glues ( took me a while to figure why my pin backs were falling off) ...mostly the recycled paper at gourmet grocers will have this kind...so they're great for cookies, bad for polymer. Cary
...patty papers (to separate hamburgers) and deli sheets (lightly coated with ____) are fine for baking on too
...index cards & manilla folders.... I have used both 3x5 and 4x6 index cards quite successfully for baking on.
......however, I once used brightly colored (florescent pink, fl.yellow) index cards, and the color transferred to the clay bottom! (...I sanded it off). Patty B.
...it's poss.that at some point, these may warp just a bit tho, so maybe not best when a totally flat result is desired for a thin sheet of clay (unless weighted)
...... beware of chipboard-type cardboard which can sometimes warp in heat (...and especially if there is a coating/paint of some kind on only one side, like a cereal box).
....tissues (Kleenex, etc.) and soft paper towels work well too, and can also be used for making a nest, or propping, etc., without leaving marks

NOTE: ceramic tiles & metal baking pans may heat up a bit more than the surrounding air
....... so (especially in a toaster oven, or if using translucent clay) you may want to raise them up a bit from the bottom coils
....... or put a few layers of paper, paper towels, fiberfill, etc. on top of them before adding the clay
........or insulate them with cornstarch or another powder (see below in Support, Propping, Insulating)
...I checked my toaster oven temp again, but this time WITH the metal baking tray I had been using...there was at least a 10 degree difference! vbratton

metal ....cookie sheets, cake or pie tin, etc.
..... (if you do use a cookie sheet without a sheet of paper covering it) be careful that it'sis not the so-called non stick material that is NOT Teflon but a kind of shiny grey coating, which does really NASTY things to polymer clay...like pitting it. ...with flat objects like pendants and pins it doesn't matter but with items that can be viewed from all sides, it's a disaster. kelly
.... I use those CD tins that AOL sends in the mail for baking trays because they just fit next to the thermometer (and they're flat). Trish
....some disposable aluminum containers have flat bottoms (but some have impressed writing), or they could be used with a layer of batting
....aluminum foil (unwrinkled)
(...note that if you bake on a smooth metal surface, your piece will be shiny on its bottom unless a sheet of paper, etc., is used between)

tiles (shiny ones, or not-shiny like terra cotta), can be used to bake on and have some advantages
...using a tile is often a good idea anyway because your piece will not then need to be removed or handled from the working area into the oven ... can have a number of diff. tiles going at the same time
...I would recommend that you not bake any translucent clay directly on a tile since it browns or yellows very easily (if the clay is made even hotter by resting on a tile , this can cause it to go brown even quicker... so I insulate my transluent will paper towels and/or cornstarch. Jana (for cornstarch, see below under Support and Propping)
(...note that if you bake on a shiny tile, your piece will be shiny on its bottom unless a sheet of paper, etc. is used between) ...more below on using tiles
... (for using tiles in other ways when baking, see below in "Using Tiles to Steady the Temp." and also "Using Tiles for a Shiny Finish")

sheet of glass (from a photo frame, etc.).... glass baking dish ...ceramic plate
....if you want something with a lip which you can wrap aluminum foil around for tenting an item or for enclosed baking, you can create a lip around the edges of the glass with some clay
(...note that if you bake on a smooth glass surface, your piece will be shiny on its bottom unless a sheet of paper, etc., is used between)

I bake on separate tiles or on a board called "clay board"... it's like particle board that has one side covered with a certain kind of clay. I use it to bake on because it does not leave a shiny spot on anything I bake on it.
.... these are purchased at art stores (altho recently I have seen black clay boards at our Michaels.... I don't recomend the black though.)
.... there are several variety of these boards.... the one that is the best is just the "original" clay board. Bean

Teflon sheets ...you can bake on them and the clay will not stick to it... I'm not sure of any advantages over other surfaces. Kathndolls

Nanetta makes "holders" for baking round or tube beads from polymer clay (rectangle, #1 pasta machined)
....for round beads, she impresses a grid of shallow, rounded depressions created with a marble (press in, twist out)
....for tube beads, she impresses the clay with a dowel, knitting needle, round pencil etc.
..(as a built-in release? for baking beads) she powders the holder with talcum powder (heavily?)
...bakes holder ... brushes off extra powder... (then bakes her raw beads sitting in depressions)
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/2005june/nanetta.html

polyester stuffing and batting:
...a "cloud" of stuffing or a sheet of batting is great for baking many kinds things, and can be used on top of a baking tray, cardboard sheet, etc.
.....it prevents flat spots on items, and helps support the parts (especially of odd shaped items)
http://tutorials.theclaystore.com/techniques/firing-a-standing-polymer-clay-doll
.....it also helps to insulate the item so the temp. underneath doesn't get too hot, so can also use on top of any thin or projecting areas
.........(esp. good when baking translucents and some light colors of clay)
...sometimes little "hairs" from the polyester will stick to the clay after baking, but it's fairly simple to remove them and doesn't hurt anything
(see below in Support for warnings about using polyester safely)

keeping items flat

You'll often need a very flat baking surface to keep items flat, or flat just on the back
...especially when baking thin sheets of clay, which are more susceptible to warping than thicker clay
(very flat baking surfaces would mean for example, a glazed tile, a sheet of glass, a metal cookie sheet, cake or pie tin, a glass baking dish, etc.

For making really sure they'll remain flat, clay can also be weighted during baking and cooling
...you can use anything that's heavy and untextured, and oven-safe
......(always place a sheet of paper between the clay and any surface it will be touching unless you won't mind a shiny area there from baking against a very smooth surface)
.....weighting clay during baking & cooling will also help prevent air bubbles from rising inside the clay. . . (if there had been any air or moisture in the clay)
........when I bake something that's flat, I bake with it's front side downward so that air rises to the back of the sheet (and won't show as much).... obviously I can't do that with a dimensional object though. Elizabeth
......if you're concerned about hot spots developing in your weighting item (if it's metal... or perhaps hot spots in your oven could cause certain parts to get hotter), you can use a tent or enclosed baking method Including powders), or use a weight which doesn't conduct heat as well (like wood, glass) ...for those you may need a sheet of paper between though (see more in Other Ways to Steady Temp below)

..If added weight would harm or squash your surface technique, (just bake it with the back as flat as possible, without weighting), then wait until the pieces comes out of the oven
... while it is still somewhat hot, place heavy books on top of it until cool. Dotty
..Or if the surface is embellished with onlays, etc., while it is still fairly hot but not so much so that you can't handle it, fill the sink with cold water and then lay the piece down on the bottom of the sink and hold it flat wherever you can until cool. Dotty

You can actually hold the raw clay flat during baking by "sticking" the clay down onto a very smooth surface (glazed tile, glass, etc.) ......(press the clay down firmly against thebaking surface before baking)
.......doing this will cause a shiny area anywhere the very smooth baking surface touches, but if that's only on the back side of the piece it may not be visible later (...if later gluing a shiny area to something else, rough up the shiny area )
....or you can create the piece on the tile in the first place so it will already be stuck down (rather than placing it there just before baking)
...using the stuck-down techniqe is also one good way to prebake a bunch of Kemper cutout shapes to use as inlays, etc
.....to do that, press a sheet of clay onto the tile, then punch the shapes into the sheet but don't remove them
.....when all shapes have been cut, then peel off the excess clay which will leave only the shapes stuck to the tile... bake ... then pop the shapes off the baking surface. Bean

To make one side of a piece really shiny on purpose, I've seen some clayers press their flat beads, for example, tightly to a cookie sheet or glass plate. Marty
...or make both sides shiny intentionally by using a very smooth item both under and on top of the flat clay during baking

Support during baking ... & Propping
(....some will also Insulate....)

If the item to be baked is dimensional and not flat --such as a sculpture, a barrette or curved pendant, or just any item you want to hold its shape
-- there are various oven-safe materials that can be used as temporary support for shaping clay, or draping clay over, during baking:

....paper based products (cardboard or carboard tubes, tissues, plain paper... wads, folded, etc.)
...unfinished wood
...natural fabrics like cotton, muslin, etc. (wadded into a nest) ...or one of those placed over another armature
...polyester stuffing or batting ... a "cloud" of it, which is placed on a baking pan (...will not "melt" at 275 ° unless too close to heating coils)
...hard, smooth surfaces (like metal or alum. foil, or glass ...cups, mugs, etc.) can be used, but remember they will create shiny areas on the clay after baking any place they touch the clay while baking
.......however, those hard smooth surfaces could be covered first with a piece of paper or a tissue, e.g.
.......or the shiny areas might be created only on the back or bottom of the piece, which wouldn't be a problem
...piles of powders, or fine grains, etc.

Sculptures can be baked on their feet, but any long or heavy and protruding bits (like an extended arm, dragon neck) should be propped with soft fabric or batting, e.g., to keep it from drooping during the baking process (see more on "propping" below).
(...some items that *seem* to stand up fine before baking may lean a bit after heating –make sure your figures in particular are well balanced before baking.)

For larger polymer pieces, I do like Pier and make a "nest" of fabric sheeting ( twisted into coils basket style) to give support for the side walls. Linda WTX

polyester stuffing and batting:
...a "cloud" of stuffing or a sheet of batting is great for baking many kinds things
.....it also helps to insulate the item so the temp. underneath doesn't get too hot (esp. good when baking translucent clay)... and can also put some on top of any thin or projecting areas (of sculpts, e.g.)
...sometimes little "hairs" from the polyester will stick to the clay after baking, but it's fairly simple to remove them and doesn't hurt anything
...most of what I make are boxes with a lot of decorative elements added in the course of several bakings... to ensure that the box doesn't collapse inward from lack of support during baking, I usually put polyester batting inside. Once, I decided to be extra sure
...so I really stuffed the polyester fiberfill or batting into the boxes, instead of filling it loosely... the boxes didn't collapse --they exploded!
.....my guess is that the expanding air couldn't make it's way up through the too-dense polyester, so it pushed out through the sides of the boxes....so at least allow for the air to escape. Irwin
....the other problem with stuffing the inside of a vessel too tightly is that when the clay starts to warm and soften, the pressure from the tightly stuffed batting itself pushing out on the walls could cause the seams to separate or the walls to bow outward. Dawn

cautions for batting and stuffing:
.....little bits of polyester may cling to the baked item, but they can easily be pulled off
....... I place a layer of an old cotton sheet on top the batting Linda..
....all battings are supposed to be non-flammable by law because they are used in stuffing kids toys, but now and then some products from other countries manage to get in that are illegal.... so check the packaging if it's an off brand
...don't let the batting get close to any part of the heating elements
.........don't put too much batting under your piece (so it won't raise item any closer to the coils than nec.)
...of course, be sure you have the toaster oven on Bake, not Broil (the only batting fires I know about have been caused by this mistake). Dotty
..I also had a toaster oven malfunction one time too .....the clay had only been in for a few minutes. Helen

PILES of powders or fine grains of anything which can withstand our baking temps... for example:
...cornstarch... rinses off more easily than wheat flour
......I use it as a support medium and also as a temperature "stabilizer." I use a toaster oven for baking and have placed a tin filled with cornstarch on the tray. I place the clay project into the cornstarch, making sure the bottom and "empty spaces" are well supported by, and the top is covered with at least 1/2" of cornstarch. ...After the oven thermometer shows that the correct temperaure has been reached, I start timing the clay.... Using this method, I have NEVER burned/discolured a project, or had the "long skinny pointy out bit" sag, even without an armature wire, even using sculpy.
.........then I either leave the project in the oven to cool down, or drop it into a sink of water to wash off while hot. Either way works fine.... just add more as needed.
.........the only downside to the use of cornstarch is that it tends to be a bit messy because of how fine it is; it tends to "fly" over the counter while being handled but is easily cleaned up with a damp cloth. . . . I have not baked liquid clay with cornstarch, so I do not know how that would work. Humm... Peggy
...I bake all my beads in a pan with about 2 inches of cornstarch flour - it doesn't matter if the beads get more or less covered with it as all you have to do is rinse them under the tap after they are cured.
........and you just store the pan in a cupboard, covered with foil and use again and again, replenishing it when the level is too low ...very convenient! Marie
....here's how I bake items (esp. with translucent clay, which is easily darkened or scorched):
....... if my item needs to be baked on a flat surface, I lay 3-4 paper towels on my tile.... then I lay the clay item on top of the paper towels
.......then, I scoop up a spoonful of cornstarch and gently sprinkle it over the item, until it is totally covered (at least 1/2" thick)
...........the cornstarch is wonderful for keeping your translucent from browning or yellowing since it totally protects it from the heat of the oven (insulation)
....... if the translucent isn't clear enough after baking, I put it back in the oven for about 5 min (without the cornstarch)... this will clear up the translucent if it needs it, without browning it.
..... If my item doesn't need a flat surface for baking (beads, etc), I put them in a baking pan which is always kept filled with cornstarch
........then cover with cornstarch and bake as above. Jana
...flour (wheat)
...baking soda someone suggested I upgrade from flour to baking soda - which I have done and it is superior - also absorbs the odor during baking, but also I found it much easier to wash off the finished piece than flour.
.......the other bonus(?) i found with the baking soda over the flour was it seems to give the clay an interesting slightly pebbled texture that I like. Helayne
....by pouring baking soda under, around, and on top of the clay before baking, one is able to protect thin pointy parts of the work from drooping and or burning, and also aids in temperature control (a pan with walls is helpful)
.......add extra baking time to allow for the mass of baking soda to warm up. Peggy
..I'd like to add to that list with diatomaceous earth (DE) which not only provides great support for polymer clay items, but is also a wonderfully effective non-toxic pesticide.... plus it is inexpensive
.........diatomaceous earth is a powder composed of the broken shells of tiny weeny diatoms.
........I purchased a huge about at a local hardware store...should also be able to find it at pool supply stores as a water filter for pools. .
........I filled up a deep dish with DE... then covered it with tissues (or cotton cloth) which form a thin flexible barrier between the clay and the DE. ...then I gently nestled and pressed the polymer piece into the tissues
.......since DE is basically silica, polymer clay baking temps won't bother it at all.
...... links that provide more detail about DE: http://www.internet-grocer.com/diatome.htm & http://www.perma-guard.com/. Desiree
...even sand or edible fine grains like couscous or rice or might work if they didn't leave marks through tissues or cloth which could be laid on them, and didn't smell or burn in the case of grains

propping

Although liquid clays and Diluent are superior "glues" between two pieces of clay, they have little tackiness or holding strength if used alone
....so prop together pieces to be joined during baking (unless gravity won't affect them)
....to actually hold the joined pieces together long enough during baking to allow the liquid clay or Diluent to work, the easiest way is just to use a few dots of superglue alongside (not on top of) the liquid clay or Diluent
...see above for materials that can be used to hold the pieces against each other during baking (poly. stuffing, piles of fine grains, etc.)
....use an armature as well as the "glue" (such as a piece of toothpick, bit of wire, or bit of cardstock, etc.)
... just rubbing Diluent on the baked clay makes it become tacky in a few minutes and enhances the bond between the raw and baked clay which may be enough to hold them together until the heat activates the normal bonding
..........that bond will be even greater if the pieces are allowed it to sit overnight
........can also try rubbing the surfaces with Mix Quick or another soft clay, or Vaseline, then let sit.
...use the same method as for an earth clay ...first score the attachment surface, and then treat with diluent or use a thin film of liquid clay. Katherine Dewey
...or you can simply let the bare pieces sit together a day or two before baking it to give the clay a chance to adhere well... it should work no matter if you do that or not, but I like to leave it so the new clay has a chance to kind of leach some plasticiser into the baked clay and create a stronger hold.

While baking, you can also use a pillar of poster tack to hold up an arm or press two parts together (it's that sticky, non-oily stuff that you can stick things onto the wall with ...you see it at the check out counters a lot in kmart, target, etc. my current package is called Fun Tak by Dap ...or Blue Tac from a hardware store).
.... you can also rebake the stuff, reshape it, rebake it ....it does not slump ....wonderful stuff..Cecilia in SD

If you have a droopable item, don’t remove the propping until the item is completely cooled. . . the polymer will be somewhat soft and flexible when removed from the oven and won’t attain its normal hardness and stiffness until it's cool

clay can develop cracks (large or small) while baking, or cooling
...this is especially true for rebaking in certain situations, but there are other reasons too
(see Heads > Cracking for a full discussion of reasons, and baking techniques to avoid cracks)

For seated figures or those in unusual positions, or for things with unusual shapes, it may be necessary to use wood blocks or crumpled aluminum foil (covered with batting or wadded fabric, etc) as supports to keep them from changing position during baking.

(for sculpting, support, and baking stands for figures, see Sculpting-Body > Tools > Support Stands)

Katie's lesson on baking a standing. figure
... to make sure the feet are really flat and the weight of the sculpt is balanced well over the feet (& because that can change slightly when the clay softens during baking), she firsts partially cures just the feet of a med-small sculpt by heating it with a heat gun or hair drying while it's standing on a ceramic plate or sheet of glass (not in oven)
...after cooling, she hangs it in the oven from an oven rack (by an "armature wire" she's left sticking out of the top of the head) with its feet on a plate and bakes it for 8 min in standing position
..lays it down on a cloud of fiberfill (with a bit of fiberfill over the projecting hands and feet), then bakes for an additional 15 min+... cools in oven
http://tutorials.theclaystore.com/techniques/firing-a-standing-polymer-clay-doll

DARKENING, scorching and BURNING

Polymer clay will begin to actually burn at temps over 390 °. . . this should be avoided at all costs. ....Thick smoke, a *terrible* smell, and burned, bubbly polymer items will let you know you forgot to double-check the temp on your oven, or your toddler was fiddling with the dials while it baked.
. . .if this happens, ventilate room thoroughly and quickly and leave the area (take pets too) ....see Safety page for more info

NOTE: it is possible that the clays reformulated with new plasticisers in the EU in 2007 (Fimos, Cernit) will have a slightly lower burning temp than the other polymer clays, but have no idea

Clays will run the gamut from darkening to scorching at temps between 225-275 and 390 °.
...... darkening or "ambering" of certain clay colors occurs because side reactions, such as oxidation of the pigments and other materials, will be caused at higher and higher temps

Baking time and temperature are interdependent and a trade-off, so for the least darkening, one may want to bake at a slightly lower temp, but for longer (see equation just below):
...for thermosetting plastics such as polymer clay, the "best" curing temperature is just one at which it polymerizes at a reasonable rate
.....the hotter the temperature, the quicker the setting reaction will happen, but the reaction will still happen even at somewhat-lower temperatures -- just takes longer to finish
....(the DH says there's a rule for that ratio:."for every 10 degree C (18 F) loss in temperature, a reaction will proceed half as fast -- or in reverse, for every 10° C or 18° increase, the polymerization rate will double" ...exponential change
(more about this below in Controversies)

The amount of translucent that's in (a brand's) clay base has a LOT to do with whether it'll darken when baking. . . .
. . colors within a brand may have more or less translucent in them --some colors have a lot, and they darken more when baking. Some colors have white in the base which opaques the color more. You can tell pretty easily, once you know what you are looking for. . . .
..... flesh colors are particularly bad this way...they have a mostly translucent base
..... some of the Fimo colors like purple and magenta too . Sarajane H. (also one of the dark blues)
..... with Premo, the discoloration seems to happen with translucent, white and the pearl colors when they're cured too long (a few minutes at 325º doesn't hurt them though, which I've done when using liquid clay). Elizabeth
.... Sculpey III colors contain a lot of translucent.... like the old Yellow
......also most lighter colors of Sculpey III (as well as original white Sculpey will darken, or turn purplish, or scorch at those temps ...the manufacturer recommends using a temp of 212 for pieces that are made up totally of those colors (interpolate to a higher temp if mixing with other colors, or possibly use the "enclosed" method below). (This used to be true of Fimo’s translucent too, but their new formula is fine at 275.)
.....SuperSculpey baked at a slightly higher temp, just under 300 °, will darken (but it also makes the clay fairly strong). Katherine Dewey (so especially good if you will be using the SS as an armature and covering it, or painting it)

....Kato Polyclay darkens less than any other brand, and can also take higher temps for regular baking (up to 325).

(to test for translucency of a particular clay, put a small flattened piece of the clays in question on a sheet of glass or acrylic, then shine a flashlight up through the clays in a dark closet)

techniques for.... PREVENTING darkening

SUMMARY... insulating and/or enclosing a baking item will help moderate the heat --esp. from hot spots or temp. spikes-- and prevent darkening:
...use a container like an aluminum foil-covered roasting pan, or roasting bag, etc.
...enclose the item under a thick layer of cornstarch (or other fine oven-safe powder)

Certain colors (and brands) tend to scorch at lower temps than others, and longer baking times (even at lower temps) can also affect those more than most other clays
......all? translucent clays .... (except Kato's??)
..... Sculpey's bulk white clay (comes in a 2-lb box)... SuperSculpey (flesh-colored, in box)... and Sculpey III's lighter colors (in packages) to a lesser extent
... other clay brands can be affected but not nearly as easily
....the exception seems to be Kato Polyclay whose colors stay true, even at temps up to and past 300 °

Certain baking situations can also make this happen more easily:
........ clay which is somewhat close to the coils (usually in a toaster oven), or directly on a metal or tile surface (which can heat to higher than the ambient temp)
........clay which is too close to an oven wall, or in a hot spot of any oven
........clay which is thin or extending from the item is also more vulnerable
........higher temps... and for some clays, longer baking times

TESTING the TEMP:
...First make sure that your oven is heating to the correct temp by using a thermometer
.... If you have trouble with areas on the clay darkening, also make sure the oven doesn't have hot spots
...be sure to put your thermometer reasonably close to the clay (rather than off to one side of the oven), because in the oven may not register on the thermometer otherwise.

PARTIALLY covering

DRAPING or LIGHTLY COVERING:
...I have found that placing a damp paper towel over my items prevents them from scorching. Sue A.
... this technique also helps to protect smaller or thiner or extending components of an unbaked sculpture
......wrap or drape damp paper towels also just on any pre-baked parts.
... I'm partial to (clothlike) Viva paper towels as they have almost no texture (soft & clothlike), and they're durable, good for multiple use. Katherine (Dewey?)
(It isn't okay to get moisture into clay, but just a bit on top of it while baking seems to be fine.)

a bit of polyester fiberfill can also be used to lightly cover any projecting and/or thin parts of a piece during baking
...... e.g., Katie's photo of the hands of a figure covered with fiberfill:
http://tutorials.theclaystore.com/techniques/firing-a-standing-polymer-clay-doll --last photo)

I don't have issues with my clay getting darker anymore using this method:
...I use a glass baking dish, then cover the bottom with polyfill
...I make an aluminum foil gate around my sculpt in the baking dish, then drape a wet dishtowel over foil & clay
...I cook all my various size dolls for 40+ minutes, but I use Prosculpt polymer clay. GardensOfUtopia

TENTING:
.... You can tent your baking items with a sheet of aluminum foil, especially if you use a lot of white, translucent or pearl colors in your mixes. ...check it at half an hour, and then every ten minutes.
........caution though... any place that the aluminum foil (or anything else very smooth) touches the clay while it's baking or cooling, will cause it to take on the same texture, causing shiney spots
....tenting with a piece of manilla folder over the top of the tall part (of the egg) keeps the top of the egg from browning, and I make sure the folder is at least 1" away from the upper heating element.....at first I was concerned about fire hazard, but now I've use the method hundreds of times without smoke or flames! LynnDel
....since I've started shielding all the pieces with tin foil during baking, my white clay (actually 50:50 white: fimo pearl) stays white. Alan

summary of more ways

ENCLOSING in a CONTAINER (completely enclosing)
(....see below in Enclosed Baking for loads of info on using boxes, roasting pans, roasting bags, etc., to bake in or to place over the clay)

ENCLOSING in CORNSTARCH and other fine powders
.......I placed a tin filled with cornstarch on the tray. I place the clay project into the cornstarch, making sure the bottom and "empty spaces" are well supported by, and the top is covered with at least a 1/2" of cornstarch. . . using this method, I have NEVER burned/discolured a project ...I either leave the project in the oven to cool down. Peggy
(see more powders and more info on using them this way, above in "Support and Propping")

COATING with POWDERS (metallic or chalk) (permanently , or temp?)
metallic powders seem to be unburnable... (chalk powders are pretty impervious too)
.... so it might be a good idea to coat your white/Pearl item (or area) with white powder (metallic or chalk) before curing and softly brush off excess (you could also brush it off after baking as long as you are not using a convection oven). faun
... I put the Pearl colored Peal Ex powder on my Santa beards with a brush and baked, then I'll glaze with a satin finish ....they came out nice and white, and I baked at 275 for an hour. deb jean
...would a coating of cornstarch work too as a temporary protector, rinsed off after baking

ENCLOSING certain PARTS
.....I wrap any highly-placed parts or any thin, prebaked of a sculpture with cotton batting, which I then secure with aluminum foil
..........I do this after the first 20-30 minutes of baking time....... works for me, Katherine Dewey
.....would wrapping with plain cotton (balls) or polyester fiberfill work as well?... otherwise maybe just strip of cotton fabric?

ELEVATING.... In a toaster oven particularly, it's important to use a block of wood or scrunched logs of alum. foil, etc., to elevate the bottom of the baking pan farther away from the lower coils... my toaster oven gets hotter on the bottom than on the top unless I do this... then baking works well, especially for items that are likely to darken. Diane B.
....certain baking materials like metal or ceramic tile, will also absorb more heat, so elevating can help there too
....can also elevate an item farther from the bottom coils by placing it on a cloud of polyester stuffing or batting (which is on a pan or cardboard, etc.)
...I line the bottom of my aluminium pan with several layers of parchment paper(or paper, paper towels,etc) ... when one layer gets worn or soiled, I can just lift it our and another one is ready to go. Kathy

HEAT SINKS ....can use tiles or other things in the bottom of an oven for evening out the temp in the whole oven chamber
(...see all info on this below in "Heat Sinks ")

I had one particular non-stick baking pan (a gray one- brand new from the grocery store) that burnt everything i baked on it. Needless to say I didnt use it long.

color changes
....With your discolored pieces, were you by any chance using a mold and a mold release like Armor- all ? I tried Armor-all a long time ago and had weird color changes when using Cernit clays.
. . . I do know that if I use a lot of Diluent-softener with some clays, it changes the color during curing...usually an all-over even color change (...the flesh might get an orangey or yellow tone). Jeanne R.

completely. "ENCLOSED" baking method

(for safety....avoiding baking smells... and avoiding possibility of darkening/scorching)

These methods require baking a bit longer because it will take a time for the heat to penetrate the enclosure (longer for denser materials) and get the air inside the enclosure up to the proper temp.

Baking in a completely enclosed unit does several good things:
....inside the enclosure, the heat is evened out so that there are no hot spots
... it also keeps lighter pieces and projecting or thin areas from from browning or darkening, and keeps items protected from oven hot spots or coils, etc
...it keeps the plasticizer which is emitted from the clay over time from collecting on the oven walls
...and it also blocks the normal odor of baking clay from getting into the air
........however, to avoid the odor completely, let the whole thing cool down before opening.... or open it outdoors and move away from it (BarbaraJ.)... or hold your breath!

Baking in an airtight aluminum foil roasting pan is working!
..... I just use a cheapo disposible aluminum roasting pan, and heavy duty aluminum foil (over the top to seal it). I can get lots of stuff inside.
.......No ill effects on my projects, and no odor while cooking ....I let it all cool down before removing the foil.
.......Could stack racks inside too. Donna Kato.
...or use two roasting pans, and invert one over the other, clipping together their rims with metal clips
...Since the bottom of a disposable pan is not perfectly flat, you can put a tile or two, block of wood, etc., in the roaster, and place your items on top (or add some fiberfill or paper, etc. first)
.....Seth's method for baking at 290 ° in an aluminum roaster, with two 6" tiles on the bottom (may work at this temp. only if using Kato clay or a mix with Kato?...and no Sculpey or translucent)
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/baking_equipment.html

I have used two large cookie tins like the ones Christmas cookies in for at least the past 2 yrs. (These held 2-3 pounds of cookies each... one is square and the other is round).... they have tight fitting lids
...I line the bottoms with a layer of polyester polyfill and I have never burned anything in them --even translucent clay doesn't burn.
...I take them out of the oven after the required time and let them cool before removing the lid (if you remove the lid before they are cool, you do get some fumes). Flo

I use a deep steel bowl turned over the piece. Jody B.
... could also use a cardboard box with one side cut away, inverted over the item (on a baking tray or aluminum foil, etc ).

I put my items completely inside a cardboard box with lid on, which has been lined inside with aluminum foil
...the clay bakes fine, and eventually the aluminum gets kind of greasy or oily, which tells me that at least _some_ plasticizer is getting trapped in there, and not going on my oven walls. Beth

You can also use a sheet of glass from a photo frame as a tray (with sheet of paper on top of it if don't want shiny spot)
...then attach a dome of aluminum foil over it.
...if you want a lip to help hold the aluminum foil, you can create one around the edges of the glass with clay. DB

I swaddled my pieces in a cocoon of aluminum foil and fiberfill ... no more darkened clay! I tried it with my little angel which went through 3 bakings! Genevieve

roasting bags for turkeys, etc.
....I just tried the "Look" baking bags for turkeys
.......on the bottom of the inside of the large bag I place a glass baking sheet
..........then I place another baking sheet under the bag since the bag should not come in direct contact with grill or sides of oven
......... I place my items in the bag (on paper or fiberfill, etc.), fold the ends over, and clip shut with metal clips... no fuss no muss
.......no smell of baking clay ...and you can see through to make sure nothing has tipped over
.......the bag will rest on the items when you put it in the oven, but then it slowly puffs up fully with air (if the bag stayed on the clay, it would cause a shiny spot)
......... the medium size bag (10x15) with an 8x11" pan puffed up at least 3" ...the large bags (18x22) puffed up 6"+
...they come 4 bags to a box in the medium size (10x15") which fits a 1 qt baking dish perfectly
.....the large turkey ba