General info re covering
Sheets of slices
Clay & other "armatures" you create
Misc. ideas
Gen. suggestions for various things to cover
... Blanks
Plastics ...general info
...recycle #'s 1-5
...recycle #6 --polystyrene, "styrofoam," etc. ... general info
......types of polystyrene & polystyrene foam, definitions, which best?
.........safety & environment
......uses for ps foam ....+ basic info on baking, etc.
...........left inside clay ... removed ...used as "shrink plastic"
...........shaping, cutting, gluing ps foam
....misc. plastic items (ping pong balls ....various other items)
....prescrip. bottles ...film canisters ....PVC pipe
....switchplates
....CD's
Metal
...metal armatures... attaching to metal
...various metal objects (silverware, etc.) ....Altoid & other tins-boxes
Glass & ceramic
......votives & light shining thru', candleholders
......bottles, jars, etc
......other glass/ceramic items
......ball ornaments
......light bulbs ....smaller bulbs, for pendants,etc.
......nightlights, lamps, screens
Wood
....various wood items ...wood shapes (cutouts & 3-D) for figures,etc
....gourds, twigs, nuts, cork
(Rocks)
Papier Mache, cardboard, paper (matchboxes + more)
Terra Cotta, plaster earth clay, greenware
Misc. items to cover ...(or make)
....Knobs (all types)
....Clocks (covered or freestanding)
....various other items
Veneer sheets
Removable sleeves (sleeves made from warm clay)
Lids
Sources
More websites

There are different ways to cover items with polymer clay:
-- complete coverage
-- partial coverage -- onlays, trailing vines, etc. (e.g., see: http://www.omodtart.com/ --click on "Candleholders & Vases) (see also Onlay for much more)
-- "element" (or parts) covering -- covering only certain parts (lids, bottoms, finials, etc.)
-- overlapping or layering slices or bits (and puzzle piece)... see Onlay for much more)
--sleeves (removable)

. . . in short, most slick surfaces like glass, metal, bakeable plastics, etc., don't need to be covered with anything before adding the clay, especially if they will be more or less wrapped with clay creating a mechanical hold. . . the clay seems to stick to them fairly well. (Some people might use a bit of superglue underneath the raw clay though, or pop off the baked clay and reattach with E-6000/Goop.)
Other materials that are fuzzier like cardboard, papier mache, etc. don't hold the clay as easily, and are either covered with a layer of clay first or brushed with a white glue like Sobo, sizing (stays tacky when dry), or other white glues, Weldlbond, then covered with clay slices/whatever.
(Pens are often covered with glue too, especially because rolling them for smoothing will pull the clay away from the pen; with eggs, some people cover first, some don't.) Diane B.

A tiny hole is often poked through the clay if covering a non-clay material (which might have a diff. rate of expansion and cause cracking).
...(however) ...If you partially bake long enough for your item it to get hot all the way inside....and then plug up the hole and finish baking, it should not cause any problems (because the air will have expanded as much as it is going to by then...it will then contract as it cools and maybe create a bit of a vacuum.) Susan

If you're applying a covering of clay to any object that's not made of clay, it's a good idea to put the piece in a cold oven and then turn it on. Leave it at the correct temperature for the right amount of time, then turn off the oven and let cool.This makes for slower heating and cooling, which will help avoid cracking (since the underlying object expands and contracts at a different rate from the clay).

Let's say you have covered a glass Christmas ball or pen with pretty cane slices or a nice marbised sheet o clay. Once you have it smoothed, pour some ultra fine glitter into the palm of your hand and roll the ball around in your hands to stick a light coating of glitter all over. The idea is to press it into the clay so that the surface is quite smooth. Now bake it and when it's cool, give it a couple of coats of Future or Flecto Varathane. Jody Bishel (DB: or use Pearl-Ex???)
example of this on a pen at Kim's page
http://www.tlcnet.com/~polyclay/canes2.html

~(for things that aren't bakable or won't fit in the oven, baked polymer can always be glued to things)
Why not see if you can get your hands on that stretch adhesive by 3M. 3M makes those removable wall hooks that stick quite well until you stretch the adhesive backing. I think you can buy just the adhesive strips. Desiree
...removable sleeves of clay could also be slipped over bath or kitchen product containers, standing toothpaste tubes, or empty containers... see below in "Misc" > Sleeves)

make a flat or curved image transfer using Lazertran Silk paper (see Transfers/Color Images):
Spray the image with 3M photo spray mount and apply to (raw?) polyclay. Allow to dry, wet backing paper and the image releases in 1 minute. This allows the polyclay to be shaped after the image has transferred. Mick

To cover a rounded surface completely with a sheet of clay, wrap it around the widest area first, then close it around the rest by pressing gently, folding, squishing or whatever ... shave off the excess, and pat it down flat, create a shape with it, or cover it with another clay element like a cane slice or a flat bead (or make sure it's on the bottom or in a place not easily noticed).

For cuts which are straight, parallel or measured, a work surface with grid lines is a good thing to work on ...
and for strips or squares/rectangles from clay sheets for boxes, covering, etc., see the gridded Omnigrid ruler)
...(see more info on gridded work surfaces in Tools > Work Surfaces)

The clear decal-type or other types of transfers could also be attached directly to the front of glass, metal, or other surfaces (e.g., small glass or plastic bottles with decals would look neat).
...they could also be attached with a backing of clay, or metallic leaf and/or clay. ) Diane B.

If you have bottles or containers to cover and have a heckuva time getting the label adhesive off, here is my cheap solution: Take a green scrubbie pad and slightly dampen. Pour salt, just regular old table salt on it. Place the bottle on it and rotate. The goo should scrub right off. This is easier if you put the pad on a surface and rub the bottle on it than trying to hold it in your hand. Kim2
Or use CitraSolve, Goo Gone, or another solvent (followed by soap and water to remove any residue)...be careful on plastics though because some of these methods can cause scratching or permanent clouding on plastics.

see beginner project book on covering papier mache boxes and lids below in Paper, Papier Mache

One block of 2 oz clay will cover 23 cm square if it’s 1mm thick. (courtesy of math-by-TeraGram)

For problems with bubbles forming in or under sheets of clay, see Pasta Machines > Problems > Bubbles, as well as below in the relevant categories.

covering with Sheets of Clay Slices

--for more details on covering certain other items, see also Pens >Sheets, Bottles of Hope, and Vessels >Bowls
--for many sheets of pattern (slices or not) which can be created for covering things, see Sculpting Tools/Body > Fabric, Canes-Instr-Types > Sheets of Pattern, and Canes-Instr-Types > Quilt > Collage Sheets)

For boxes, jars, and for covering some types of vessels,) I start by rolling out some base clay that is compatible with the colors in the cane, or a contrasting color, whichever you think will look the best if it peeks through the cane covering. I usually roll it out on the #3 or 4 setting of the pasta machine (if you have one. If not, just roll it about 1/8th inch thick, or slightly thinner.) They I lay thin cane slices on top of the sheet, enough to cover the entire sheet if possible. Then I place the cane covered sheet in-between two sheets of waxed paper. Using an acrylic roller or brayer, I roll over the clay to smooth the cane slices (the waxed paper helps to keep them from distorting.) When the surface is as smooth as I can get it, I then use the sheet to cover whatever project I'm working on. Dotty

My colors smeared together when I was covering a pen . . .
Your colors may be smearing when you're pressing down o n the slices trying to get the surface even. If that's the case, try always pressing *straight down* each time, don't allow your fingers to press-and-slide.
(If the item is already baked) you could sand the surfaces where the colors are smeared together, you'll probably find that the pattern is fine underneath and it was only the top that you smeared. . . . (after sanding with water and wet-dry sandpaper, 400 & 600 grits, buff the dulled surface with your jeans or almost any kind of fabric or with an electric buffer, or apply a sealer finish.)
....Next time, try to make your slices as close to the same thickness as you can to begin with; this helps a lot!!
... After pressing down the most obvious bumps, use a brayer of some kind to even it more, or put a piece of parchment or smooth tracing paper over each area and rub with your finger . . . these things should keep any smearing from happening.) Diane B.

I apply my canes symmetrically, from the inside out or the outside in. Lynn Del

Any blank spaces can be filled with a different-sized slice of the same cane, another cane of coordinated color, or small balls of any color that might make it interesting.
Or I cover the item first with a sheet of clay that looks fine showing through, then spaces don't matter.... LynnDel

Do you have any hints to give on using cane slice sheets to cover these more complex shapes? . . .I always wonder if every shape has to be thought out separately ...that is, in terms of what will show. And how one avoids obvious breaks in the pattern from darts or pleats (when placing the sheet or sheet parts around arms, nooks/crannies, double bends, etc.) . .. Or have you kind of found a system for covering?... for example, placing the sheet on the back or front, then just pressing it in and around everything, cutting only in certain kinds of places, etc.??? or always wrapping the limbs or head separately?? Diane B.
...I never worry about it. . .I just use flowers from the same canes that I used in the cover layer to hide the folds and defects. If you gently blend them in, you will never know. . .heck I usually rip the covering itself to help it fit. . .it just looks perfect. . .but it's not! Dawn

Donna Kato's method for making a sheet of slices on a backing sheet works great ...wow.... she taught me at Ravensdale last year:
..... first cut your slices very thin! .....then put some of them down on the clay sheet... roll the sheet with an acrylic roller six different ways (end to end, side to side, and then both cattycorner to avoid distortion).... then put down more slices and repeat.... continue until all your slices are done and rolled into the sheet of clay. . . . use some pressure each time.
......then you can then fit the sheet directly onto whatever you wish to cover, or add a backing sheet for strength, and cut whatever pieces you might need.
..... I had tried rolling the slices in before, but had never done it this thoroughly, and that is what makes the difference. I found I can completely eliminate any lines around the cane slices. It's well worth the time spent doing it. Dotty in CA

Pauline, a trick I use to get rid of those lines (between slices in a cane sheet) is to slice my canes thinly, as thin as possible, apply them to the background, and run it through the pasta machine, like you are doing. Then when I get to #4 thickness, I run it through, then staying there I use a piece of fabric that has a texture I like, and run it through again. The texture from the fabric usually hides the lines, it also makes the clay easier to handle.

When I slice the cane, I lay the slice on a clean glass sheet on my work table. Just laying my thumb on it long enough to warm it and anchor it to the smooth surface (but not smooshing it)....old clay sometimes slips, so press a bit. Then using a rigid blade, I tap the egdes inward to square it up. (use a blade to lift and position on what ever you're putting it on)....
...I also do just one row (of slices) at a time and bake one row at a time. That way you don't mess up the row before and it gives you a firm backing for the next row. I have a small convection oven ,fast working. I suppose if you use a full size oven it might be a problem. Some people use a heat gun,but I never could without burning my fingers, LOL! . . . on smoothing, I use a Dremel with (stitched?) buffing pad to lose the real rough spots and then buff like mad with steel wool of varying grades. Jack
Jack Schwend's fabulous Poly-Psyanky eggs, with lots of precise, complex caning in rows
http://jacksworkshoppe.homestead.com/PAGE3.html

You can minimize bubbles by applying sheets of clay (from) the center of the sheet and smoothing outward to push the bubbles to the outer edges. If you get one that you can't push out, lift the clay away from the votive or whatever, to the edge of the bubble, smooth it down and continue. If you find a bubble after you've already got everything stuck tight, use a very sharp tissue blade to slice into the side of the bubble and smooth the air out... the diagonal cut will be easy to mend with a little care. "Brayer" over it with a pen or something. zig
A tip I learned from a friend is to cover the clay covered portion of a flat piece (tin, switchplate, etc.) with tracing paper and then burnish with a bone folder before baking. It really aids in eliminating or at least reducing most bubbles between the clay and the surface you are covering. Linda G.

The thinner the slice, the least distortion. . . . A stiffer clay does distort least. Donna K.

You can cover baked, solid-clay shapes that you create yourself (animals, catsle towers, eggs, etc.), or you can make them hollow, then cover
.....use liquid clay, white glue or super glues, or other methods to adhere the clay well, if necessary

Or you can cover raw, solid clay shapes instead... in some cases, this can change the shape a bit (ke ep putting in frig or letting rest (even overnight) to help avoid distortion).

most info on this is in Sculpture > Covering Sculpted Forms with clay
.....also see Armatures-Permanent

Misc. covering ideas

flat onlay can be used for covering too .. . . placing very thin, individual slices one at a time on a base, in order to create individual pictures/items/designs
(see Canes-Instr.>Overall Techniqes for more on this method)
... also very thin slices from translucent canes can be used over a plain or patterned background... the translucent portions of these slices will disappear on the background (see Canes-Instr. > Translucent Canes for more on these)

Have I got it right that you want to cover a sphere completely, with precut pattern pieces?? If so, there are several possibilities that I know of. Some of them are on my Eggs page at Glass Attic; Mike B. and others have their own ways of covering a sphere-like object with strips and/or slices of various shapes.
The other way is something I had to do once that gave me fits! I had to create a pattern for the Earth which my son's 4th grade class could cut out of cardstock and join the extending parts to make a smooth sphere. Ack. So I thought about using those _____ world maps as a pattern, enlarging one to the size I needed before making the one they'd use. That eventually worked (though I had to add tabs for gluing the bits together, and that was tricky!...you don't need that though).
So basically think of the way you might peel an orange. If you cut around the "poles" in at least 2 complete revolutions, you'll end up with pointed oval shapes; the more revolutions you cut, the smoother the sphere will be.
So... I guess you could either cover an identical sphere with clay first, then cut as evenly as possible (maybe using dental floss) through the poles, remove and try to make a pattern without stretching the clay
...OR you could cover an identical sphere with aluminum foil then layers of masking tape (break out the sphere if its breakable), then cut your through the poles; use one of those pieces (or all of them) for your clay pattern pieces. . . . or something like that! Diane B.

James L's 2-layer sheet for covering: holey top layer of clay (holes made with tiny cutters) pressed onto solid under layer... in this case a variegated metallic holey layer and a solid color underlayer . . . lots of variations possible
http://www.akrobiz.com/pc/i_72.html

Suggestions for various things to cover

In my bathroom, I covered the toilet paper roll brackets (roll holders) a year ago. I like it so much I'm going to do it for my other bathroom
...I'd also like to cover all the cabinet handles to match...., and possiblethe towel rack brackets, too. Once I get started, I can't stop! :-) LynnDel
....Claudine's containers covered with clay for bathroom vanity (terra cotta pot, metal and glass vases and large containers)
http://www.essi.fr/~claudine/Fimo/Gallerie/SalledeBain/sdb.htm
...(more embellishing than "covering") ... I want to make a flower, and put it on my shower curtain hooks..I don't know if I should form it onto a metal hook and then bake, or if it should be glued on, etc. Arleen

"air freshners" ... I made some air freshners for my car with clay and fragrance oil. Looked good, smelled great, and the rest of the family wanted one. But in a couple of days they literaly fell apart. After expermenting I discovered the fragrance oil was the culprit. I still like the idea but I have no idea how to get the fragrence in there without causing damage. I originally put it on cotton balls. Cindy J.
...could you use a metal "tea (infuser)" thing (a tea ball)...i'ts egg shaped and screws together in middle. Cover with pc except for the screw together section, then put your cotton ball inside. put little holes in the pc for smell to get out? Dar
.....The first "rule" is not to let your oils come in contact w/ any metal except stainless steel, and that's even risky. It isn't dangerous, but the scent mutates (as 7-y-old son would say) to something gross. So the tea strainer idea is great...IF you can find stainless..helensharvest
... would this apply to all fragrance oils? aromatherapy oils?
...How about covering a small glass bottle or vial? You could put the cotton ball in there and the clay would be protected. Jody
Tie a cord around the neck for hanging... with, maybe, a stopper attached to control the amount of aroma. Cindy TX
How about putting some potpourri in it and using it to freshen a room or a closet?. Kimba
(see more ideas and info in also Inclusions > Smell-y)

Dotty's lesson on making a key ring fob (not covered though) with translucent spirals
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/april2001/keyring.html
Susan's key fobs and bottle openers (website gone)

many items to put a flat polymer sheet (transfer, cane sheet, mokume, etc.) into . . . keyrings, coasters, bookmarks, banks, mugs, paperweights
http://www.wackywagon.com/access5.html

covered wine stoppers (wine bottle stoppers)... where are other references? (see more on stoppers in general in BOH > Stoppers)
http://www.moonroomcrafts.com/winebottlestoppers.htm

Judith Skinner's badge covers (to hide ID badges when out of the office)
http://members.aol.com/polyannie/pins.html (gone to judithskinner.com?)

...artclayworld . . . Twist Ballpoint Pen -Necklace Perfume Vial Holder & Atomizer?-Key Chain -Ceiling Fan Pulls - Letter Openers -cabochon Bookmarks & Purse Mirror, http://www.artcraftworld.com/pclay.htm and http://www.artcraftworld.com/pcinst.htm
(lessons for covering each item)

...lanyardsuypply . . . lanyards ... cording with attachers on end, badge holders, badge clips...some retractable, zipper lanyards, ball chain necklaces, keyrings, cord locks, buckles, snap hooks, etc. http://www.lanyardsupply.com

....Confabulations . . . pendant magnifier loupes... front could be covered with polymer clay, etc; the loupe swings out from behind it
http://www.nanosite.com/confab/c-loupes.html

...Fanciful Brass . . . (many charms, plus other items) ...their letter opener is on page 74 item #2743 and the price is $1.38 . . . I think letter openers would make great office gifts...http://www.fancifulsinc.com/default.htm Dave

Dotty's front-covered business card holder mini-lesson (holder is from the Metalferous catalog) (Metalliferous,1-212-944-0909, http://www.metalliferous.com/) (website gone)

general info

(for nightlights, see "Glass" sub-category below)
(for loads of plastic & other containers to purchase & cover, see Supply Sources page --bottles/containers category)

what is a "plastic"? ...or a thermoplastic, or a polyethylene, or PVC, etc.?
http://pslc.ws/macrog/index.htm ... http://pslc.ws/macrog/floor1.htm (things made from plastics)

There are two possible problems we need to think about when using polymer clay with certain plastics:
1. contact with raw clay can cause some types of plastic to become cloudy, or to "melt" over time ... e.g., when storing clay
2. all plastics will soften or melt when exposed to their particular critical level of heat
.... some plastics aren't affected by the fairly low heat we use to cure polymer clay though (265-275)
.....other plastics can't be baked at our temps though (...or they'll need to be insulated, etc)
........... those plastics can still be used with polymer clay though, if the baked coverings or embellishments can be glued onto them later. DB

For contact and storage, in general the rubbery type plastics (often translucent) are okay, but the hard, very clear plastics aren't
..... (acrylic sheets are ok tho!)
... # 1, # 2 or # 4 ......so far I've seen no storage reactions with recycling plastics
... # 5 is okay too (Rubbermaid containers and many other rubbery translucent containers)
... # 6 (polystyrene). avoid it like the plague for storing clay!
.........however, it's possible to use # 6 (and others?) as an armature for baking with clay if it's not in contact longer than a day first --see more details below
.....One way to to test plastics for storage would be to put a drop or to of 'Diluent-Softener' onto a plastic and see what happens after a few hours or days.
(for much more on plastics used for storing polymer clay, see Storage)

For heat resistance, in general most of the "recyclable" plastics aren't terribly heat resistant (recycling plastic does usually involve melting, after all), but many can be used in various ways with clay because of the low temps we use.... especially if completely covered with clay as a buffer, and not baked for too long or too hot.

recycle numbers

RECYLCING NUMBERS indicate type of plastic resin used ...usually located on the bottom of the plastic item, surrounded by arrows in a triangle):
.....# 1 PET or PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) ...containers for soft drinks/some water, peanut butter/jam, sald dressing ... shrinks at dishwasher temperatures
.....# 2 and # 4 (high & low density polyethylene) ... most common plastics ....shrink at slightly higher temps than #1(generally not dishwasher safe--but see below for more info):
...........HDPE (#2, high density polyethylene) ...stronger --milk, juice, some water, yogurt tubs & film containers, grocery bags, gasoline tanks, detergent bottles, toys)
.......... LDPE (#4, low density polyehtylene) ...cheaper --bread packaging, squeeze bottles--honey/mustard, frozen food bags, toys, paint can lids and milk bottle caps
.....#3 PVC (polyvinyl chloride) --cooking oil bottles, pressure pipe, surgical gloves, clear food packaging, cling film house siding .... don't know heat resistance but can bake PVC pipe at our temps as long as not too big (large pipes can slump a bit)
.....# 5 (polypropylene --many "medical plastics" and "food plastics"--microwave ware, yogurt cups, margarine tubs, some take-away containers, )... significantly more heat resistant...ok in dishwasher (--but see below for more info)
.....# 6 (polystyrene ...open-cell and closed-cell foams ---"Styrofoam," craft store shapes, packing foams, insulation foam from hardware store, foam meat & veg. trays/egg cartons ...and also clear/stiff polystyrenes --some disposable drinking cups, guitar picks) ....shrink at our baking temps **
.....# 7 is a catch-all number for all other resins and all sorts of other mixes & laminates, so you can't bank on it being consistently god or bad (or even recyclable)

(more on recycle # 2 and # 5)

# 2 ...according to Marie Segal, all the plastic film canisters labeled with the "2" are compatible with polymer clay and will withstand the baking temperature. .......however, it seems that any part not actually covered with clay will begin to soften if baked longer than 10 min. or so??
(... see more on baking these, below in Film Canisters)

# 5 (polypropylene)
.... almost all medical plastics
.........prescription bottles... cough syrup bottles ... those tall squared containers for dental floss
....some food plastics are also #5
...........individual applesauce cups...yogurt cups (not the larger containers though)--Yoplait and prob. other brands too? (Yoplait has conical shape, good for pencil or paintbrush holders) .....the short 2" McCormick or Schilling herbs/spices containers (not the reg. size ones tho').... maple syrup containers (could make a cool vase?or dolls/figures?) ... see below for M & M tube types containers .."dishwasher-safe" food containers
(...as a fiber, polypropylene is used to make indoor-outdoor carpeting)

recycle # 6 ... POLYSTYRENE foam(s), "Styrofoam," etc.

General Info

# 6 recycle number (polystyrene) come in various forms:
...clear, rigid polystyrenes (un-foamed)-- many everyday items ("jewel boxes", television & computer cabinets, appliances, toys), some disposable clear drinking cups, etc.)
. ..foamed polystyrenes --."Styrofoam" & craft store shapes... foam insulation.... packing foams & peanuts... foam meat & veg. trays/egg cartons

...don't use solvent-based paints or sprays, etc., on polystyrene foams --they will dissolve the foam (use acrylics instead)
...let spray adhesives fully dry to get rid of the solvents before touching polystyrene foam
...ditto for long-term contact with raw polymer clay?
...2-part polyester resins dissolve polystyrene (but epoxy resin is okay)

Polystyrene is a thermoplastic polymer, made from styrene (a liquid found in plants but is commercially manufactured from petroleum).
Some people confuse styrene, which is a liquid, with polystyrene, which is a solid plastic made from polymerized styrene. Styrene and polystyrene are fundamentally different.
....polystyrene is inert, and has no smell of styrene
....polystyrene often is used in applications where hygiene is important, such as health care and food service products

Types of polystyrene (ps)

Polystyrene plastics come in various types:
...MOST polystyrene is used to make solid and hard (durable) products:
..... "jewel boxes" for CD's and audio cassettes, television & computer cabinets, appliances, toys, cutlery, yogurt and cottage cheese containers, strawberry crates, etc.
...However, when polystyrene is "foamed" with a gas, it blows up and becomes "expanded polystyrene" (or EPS) ... the foam is.5% polystyrene + 95% air
(semi-flexible clear polystyrenes may be a separate 3rd type --e.g., salad bar boxes, cups)

At room temperature, polystyrene is normally a solid thermoplastic, but can be melted at higher temperature for molding or extrusion, then resolidified.

polystyrene foams

(summary)
..COMPRESSED or EXTRUDED polystyrene foam -- XPS (or XEPS)
.....often used as (sheets of ) building insulation....often a color --pink, blue, green or yellow, in the US
.....found in hardware stores, home supply stores, and perhaps in some craft/hobby stores
.....denser than expanded polystyrene
.....can be cut & sanded to more detail than expanded ps foam... pretty strong due to density
..EXPANDED polystyrene foam -- EPS (molded ps beads, closed cell )
....can be block-molded for use as protective packaging around electronics & other goods ("EPS block"), packing "peanuts", non-weight-bearing architectural structures (such as pillars), and also in crafts and model building, particularly architectural models
....also available as home insulation (though need a vapor protector, and not as strong as the extruded type of insulation?)..MEPS boards?
....can be custom-shape-molded for use as sheets & shapes for crafts ("EPS shape") ...usually white, occasionally green
....less dense than compressed ps... so more brittle so it's crumbly and messier when cut than compressed ps foam --larger ps beads ...also easily charged with static electricity so bits stick to everything (fabric softener sheet or spray can help remove static)
(photo of both types (in sheet form) http://www.thepalantir.org/ca/terrain/azo001/azo001.htm )

...more info on Molded Expanded Polystyrene (MEPS) Boards & Extruded Expanded Polystyrene (XEPS) Boards at:
http://www.healthgoods.com/Education/Healthy_Home_Information/Building_Design_and_Construction/foam_board.htm

more on Extruded polystyrene (XPS... aka Compressed ps)

Extruded ps foams are preferred over expanded ps foams by sculptors and modelers who want the best carve-ability and the finest detail (and the least mess).

Extruded polystyrene foam begins with solid polystyrene crystals.....the crystals, along with special additives and a blowing agent, are fed into an extruder. Within the extruder the mixture is combined and melted, under controlled conditions of high temperature and pressure, into a viscous plastic fluid. The hot, thick liquid is then forced in a continuous process through a die in the extruder.
......as it emerges from the die, it expands to a foam ... is shaped, cooled, and trimmed
...this continuous extrusion process results in a unique foam product with a uniform closed-cell structure, a smooth continuous skin, etc., compared to other insulation types

Polystyrene foams are most often used as insulation in buildings, for masonry wall insulation ..perimeter insulation ..and roof insulation
...also used to make foamboard, which is a substitute for corrugated cardboard which has a smooth paintable exterior (it's an extruded polystyrene foam sheet which has been laminated between two clay-coated paper liners or other laminates --e.g., Fome-Cor®)

Especially for shaping, the color of the foam may not be important now (and a particular color may not even be the type of material you want)
...instead, what's important is the density of the foam (how “hard” it is)... the denser the foam, the harder and heavier
... a density of 32kg/m3 (density of the original blue Styrofoam) is the benchmark (for modeling)... anything less can be too soft, though anything more dense can great
...to find local sources, do a web search for “Underfloor Insulation” or "Styrofoam,"etc.... then call and ask about the density of the specific products

"Styrofoam," "styrofoam"
(NOTE: most people don't know that the word "Styrofoam" is often used incorrectly in the U.S.
...like "Kleenex," or "Vaseline," or "Xerox," Styrofoam is a common brand name which has come to represent to many people any polystyrene foam, but especially the white type of ps foams sold in craft stores... this causes some confusion when dealing with the proper terms and brand names)

Styrofoam® is a registered trademark (brand name) for a line of extruded polystyrene foam products made exclusively by The Dow Chemical Company in the USA and other countries.
.....the real name of the product is foamed polystyrene... Styrofoam® is the largest brand of extruded polystyrene foam
..Dow's foam products are made in a number of different grades ... and for different applications
......in the US, Styrofoam® is sold as (blue) polystyrene foam insulation for construction purposes
.........(note that other XPS products in the USA --not made by Dow-Styrofoam-- are green, pink or yellow)
......Styrofoam brand foam craft products, however, are not sold under the Dow label, but rather under the name of its fabricators-distributors... these products are white or green:
.........for example, FloraCraft (white) and Oasis Floral Products (green bricks for holding plant stems, etc.)
........."it's special manufacturing process lends it a crispness other craft foams lack, making it easier to cut, texture, shape, or sculpt."

(...Styrofoam Brand Foam is not used in the manufacture of disposable foam products however --such as meat trays, cups, plates, coolers or egg trays
... those are made of either molded expanded polystyrene beads, or from thin extruded polystyrene sheet-- neither of which is manufactured by Dow in the US)

more on Expanded polystyrene (EPS, "beadboard")

The raw material for producing EPS is a resin in the form of tiny round (polystyrene) beads (spheres).
...the beads are then impregnated with a small percentage of the naturally ocurring gas, Pentane
......through heating and the rapid release of the gas, the beads are expanded to almost 50 times original size ...beads are then aged for 12 to 48 hours, which allows the internal vaccum in the beads to refill with air
..these loose expanded beads are then often formed into a solid block mass using a vacuum-assisted block mold (steam is used to create heat and pressure, which forces the beads to fuse together into a solid structure)
...the final material is heat cured to make sure that it's dimensionally stable and completely dry

"virgin bead"... "virgin" polystyrene balls are probably the same as the "loose expanded beads" just mentioned
... virgin beads are also used as filler in higher-quality bean bag chairs because they slide past each other more easily, and don't compress as much over time
http://www.beanbagchairsbeanbagchairs.com/virginbead.htm
http://www.beanbagsuperstore.com/bean-bag-chairs-bean-bag-refill.html
.....these are highly static and will both go everywhere and stick to everything, and are hard to clean up --though you can cut down on the static by rubbing your hands and fabric with a dryer sheet or spraying with anti-static spray
...(I don't know about the super tiny microbeads (not glass microbeads)that are used for the squishy pillows nowadays though.. just read this however: "you can buy the microbeads at Hancock Fabrics or Joann's (sometimes) in the filler section of the store... most craft stores carry them too.... it's the SMALLEST size foam bead out there. "
...on the other hand, "recycled bead" is chopped up molded blocks of polystyrene, which is used as lower quality filler ..
...("PET" Eco-Bead is a packing peanut that's been cut into a circular bead)

EPS is sometimes referred to colloquially as "beadboard" because the individual beads (produced during the first stage) can generally been seen in the final product (although the EPS industry seems to deprecate this practice).

...also used as furniture & floatation materials, etc. ....and as thermal and acoustic insulator materials for homes (though need a vapor protector, not as strong as the extruded type of insulation?) ..MEPS boards?

Garie Sim and I discussed the fact that frequently a brand name such as Styrofoam becomes a generic name in the way that Kleenex is used...in other words, I'm not sure whether the material he is using is the same as (what we call) Styrofoam here in the U.S.? Patty B.
....(1/12/2005) I made an enquiry with some of our local manufacturers in Singapore for the (white polystyrene foam I use) [which Garie refers to as "styrofoam"] and was told that the styrofoam material is created from Expanded Polystyrene Resin (and that the raw material is the same the US and other countries). Garie
...(so if Garie uses what becomes expanded ps in its final form, it can't be anything that's made by the "Styrofoam" brand because they make only extruded ps, right?)

Also, there are also local colloquial expressions for some of these polystyrene foams:.
....for example, in Germany "styropor" is often used to refer to otherwise generic block-molded EPS (actually, Styropor® is the worldwide tradename of BASF's brand of what is called "expandable polystyrene"--the solid beads of raw material used to make EPS).
.......an example of styropor at Els' site (sphere)
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/zon0005_jpg_view.htm

outside the U.S.A., be careful (re colors) ...the simple color identifications for polymeric geofoam materials vary from country to country.
.....for example, in the U.K., pink is used for several (name brand) EPS-block-geofoam products (not for the pink XPS, as in the U.S.A.)
worldwide sources for expanded polystyrene
http://www.powersourcing.com/sf/expandedpolystyreneresin.htm

more?

polystryrene and Styrofoam info: http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blpolystyrene.htm
polystyrene info http://www.answers.com/topic/polystyrene ... http://www.psrc.usm.edu/macrog/styrene.htm
http://www.polystyrene.org/polystyrene_facts/facts.html
EPS polystyrene sheets & forms http://www.univpack.com/Expanded_Polystyrene__EPS_.aspx

Foams are classified as open-cell or closed-cell.
....cell structure determines certain properties, thereby influencing the type of application of the foamed plastic.
....(the cell structure depends on the process used for the production of the foamed plastic; in some cases both flexible and rigid foams may be produced with either open or closed cells --e.g., PVC).
...open-cell polystyrene foams... foam bubbles are interconnected as in a kitchen sponge
.......somewhat rough surface ...can see the insides of the bubbles on surface of shape (clinky "Styrofoam" in the US?)
.........."papier mache" craft eggs, etc., made this way are often covered with a layer of papier maché so their surface is more acceptable to crafters for painting, etc.
...........I have cut open perfectly-shaped baked polymer eggs which were baked over "plastic" eggs and found that the "plastic" egg (actually ps) did melt to a lump inside, but only after holding up long enough to act as a baking support, and to leave the sort of shiny surface inside that you get from baking polymer clay on smooth tiles or glass. Sara Jane in NC
.....offer little resistance to the passage of liquids and gases through them
.....easily lets water into its interior... becomes water-logged quickly
.....achieved by increasing the moisture content of the composition and prolonging the molding time (shaped after foaming)
...closed cell ..each cell (more or less spherical in shape) is completely enclosed by a thin wall or membrane of plastic
......foamed' within a mold of the shape --a sphere, egg, whatever ... smooth surface
.....good for insulation because air can't go through
.....achieved by adjusting the amount of foaming agent, plasticizer, and/or water of the composition... and the compression molding conditions such as the use of a low moisture content and short compression molding time.
.....molten closed-cell EPS... while water resistant, is weak, and breaks into tiny pieces on impact or while being cut (like molded packing material for boxes?)
.....extruded closed-cell EPS ...the internal framework of extruded closed-cell EPS is much like wood, giving it additional strength and water resistance

"foam rubber" (aka Sponge Rubber, or Latex Foam) is a different kind of foam... flexible, porous substance made from a natural or synthetic latex compounded with various ingredients and whipped into a froth. The resulting product contains roughly 85 percent air and 15 percent rubber and can be molded and vulcanized.. . . a blowing agent is incorporated into the latex…(polurethane foam?)
....(sponge foam) can take more heat than you used ...I accidentally baked a dollhouse mattress of foam rubber with a polymer blanket over it. It held up just fine for the 15 minute bake it received. Gillian

safety, environmental issues

It may be that all the bad press (esp. in the late 80's) about the "dangers of Styrofoam" (see ozone layer info below) is what's partly responsible for what some people still think, because as far as I can tell, it seems fine to expose heat-foamed polystrene to the low temperatures we use to cure polymer clay.
...However, if polystyrene foams actually burn (at 482° F), they can out-gas and emit bad things (smoke), and degrade to styrene & benzene --but most other plastics, including polymer clay, will also create unhealthy emissions if they are burned.
....In fact, polystyrene foams will shrink if exposed to just a certain level of heat (crafters have shrunk them to use as shrink plastic, make little hats, etc.)... the clear version of unfoamed polystyrene (clear salad boxes, etc.) will also shrink the same way that commercial shrink plastics do in the oven --think the temp for shrink plastics are somewhere between 200-300°, but well short of polystyrene burning temps.

Also, hot-wire cutters are suggested for cutting polystyrene foams, and they certainly get much hotter than our 250-275 baking temps... when cutting with hot wire, a bit of smoke is produced and I'm sure we shouldn't be inhaling it, but Dow and others don't warn against using them when mentioned (though some individuals do).
....low-temp glue guns are also recommended for use with polystyrene foams, and their glue gets pretty hot (glue from high-temp guns will eat into the foam though it doesn't burn it, so its recommended to let the hotter glue cool for a second or so before contacting the foam)
........high temp guns =385° F; low temp ones = 250° F)

Alan says that polystyrene will have an odor at our baking temps (265 - 275º), but is not toxic at all
.....it won't technically melt (or produce toxic fumes) until reaching a much higher temp (around 385º - 485º)
---Garie suggests not baking over 300º F (150º C)
....to keep temps really even, can also use a completely-enclosed baking method (or partly-enclosed) with any clay pieces which have exposed foam, if desired (...draped-over damp paper towel, etc.....or can use a convection oven)
..........so if baking ps foam uncovered to intentionally allow the foam to shrink, some clayers may just prefer to do the baking outdoors or in another room, etc.

chlorofluorocarbons --CFC's & the Ozone Layer
....It used to be that chlorofluorocarbon gases (CFC's), which are environmentally unfriendly, were the "blowing agent" used to expand polystyrene into foam by some manufacturers. Europe banned any use of these gases first, and around 1990 the U.S. also banned them. That was strictly a manufacturing "toxicity" though.
...After the Montreal Protocol on Substances that Deplete the Ozone Layer, chlorofluorocarbons as blowing agents in the production of rigid foam were phased-out. (...prior to the implementation of the Montreal Protocol, chlorofluorocarbons were the primary blowing agents used for both open cell (i.e. primarily flexible) foams and closed cell --i.e. primarily rigid-- foams).
...today, foamed polystyrene is manufactured primarily using two types of blowing agents - carbon dioxide or pentane.
......neither has any effect on the upper ozone layer (and according to the manufacturers, the pentane emissions are captured to prevent low-level smog formation, and the carbon dioxide is recovered to prevent an increase in the CO2 levels in the atmosphere)

high heat
from the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet):
...In smoldering or flaming conditions, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, carbon are generated.
...When burned or heated over 482°F (250°C), evolution of small amounts of hydrogen bromide, hydrogen chloride and hydrogen fluoride occurs; under high heat, non-flaming conditions, small amounts of aromatic hydrocarbons such as styrene and ethylbenzene are generated.
(...if thick black smoke (carbon) is seen from using too much heat, don't breathe)
...high temp hot glue guns reach 385° F and will melt polystyrene foam, but low temp guns reach 250° F won't, and are even suggested for use with Styrofoam)
......general purpose polystyrene foams are flammable and may produce dense smoke under actual fire conditions
.... small amounts of styrene can leach out of polystyrene products and into food under high heat
"Because low-level exposure risks are still undetermined, don’t warm up your Kung Pao chicken in the container it came in. That especially goes for any food products high in vitamin A, like cheese pizza, carrots or instant oatmeal," said Friend. "These foods can add to the leaching effect."

I'm not sure whether what Garie is using is the same as the Styrofoam we use here in the U.S.? Patty B.
....1/12/2005... I made an enquiry with some of our local manufacturers (in Singapore) for styrofoam and was told that the styrofoam material is created from Expanded Polystyrene Resin and the raw material is the same the US. and other countries. Garie

USES for polystyrene foams

Basic Info

A number of people in Europe (where polystyrene foam is sometimes referred to as "styropor"), and now in Asia, have been using foamed polystyrene as armatures under their baking polymer clay.
...they may completely enclose the foam within the clay (covering the foam first with aluminum foil, or using a flexible clay mixture)... then bake (in which case the foam stays in the clay)
...or they may partially enclose the foam with the clay (in which case it shrinks more --usually enough so it can be removed from the clay after baking)

shrinkage:
..the foam will shrink in both instances, but using aluminum foil around the polystyrene seems to buffer the temp enough that the ps won't shrink as much as it would if left exposed
...from a size of 1 3/4" x 1 3/4", (the expanded polystyrene) shrunk to 3/4" x 3/4" and became a compressed plastic just like the material you found in the Hobby crafts plastic model... if you toss it onto the ground it will give you a clink sound. Garie
..foam plates, cups, etc, will continue shrinking with time (see 3. foams used as shrink plastic below)

baking temps... Alan says that polystyrene will have an odor at our baking temps (265 - 275º), but is not toxic at all (see Safety below)
.....it won't technically melt (or produce toxic fumes) until reaching a much higher temp (around 385º - 485º)
.... it is safe to bake the styrofoam (expanded polystyrene foam)... I have been conducting experiments with styrofoam since 2001, and the foam will not burn at a standard temperature of 265º F (130º C), even baked for longer (45 min ). Garie ---Garie suggests not baking over 300º F (150º C)
....to keep temps really even, can also use a completely-enclosed baking method (or partly-enclosed) with any clay pieces which have exposed foam, if desired ...draped-over damp paper towel, etc.....or can use a convection oven
...if the polystyrene foam is completely covered with aluminum foil or polymer clay (or acrylic paint?/ glue?), any fumes would be trapped... but if baking uncovered ps foam to intentionally allow the foam to shrink, some clayers may prefer to do the baking outdoors or in another room, etc.

baking times... Els bakes for 30 mins ... then lets cool (whether leaving foam inside, or removing it)
..note.....once covered with with raw clay, polystyrene will need to be baked within one day since the plastisizer of the polymer clay will eat into the polystyrene foam after awhile. Els

tests by Garie ... placing clay in direct contact with polystyrene, versus using a clay mixture of flexible clay + regular clay
...his tests show that if in direct contact, polystyrene will stick to the clay in spots while it's baking (and shrinking), resulting in cracks in baked clay covering
.......Garie also suggests that covering the polystyrene with (baby) oil will prevent the sticking and subsequent cracking
.......NOTE: cracking of clay can also be prevented by using a barrier of aluminum foil completely around the polystyrene foam while baking... and possibly by using ArmorAll silicone spray or a "ca debonder" (for those, see Glues > Superglue Solvents, Repel Gel, etc.)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/pc_foam.htm :
...regular clay (FimoSoft--green) wrapped around polystyrene ball in direct contact with clay = cracking of surface
...1 part Bake and Bend +.3 parts FimoSoft (bluish-green) around ps ball ... shrinkage about 50%... no cracking of surface
...1 part Bake and Bend +.3 parts FimoSoft around ps square 3/8" thick... also used toothpick to "release the air pockets between foam and clay"... no cracking

For easiest carving and for better detail, use "extruded" polystyrene foam (the extruded stuff can be found cheaper at most building centers as insulation, etc....comes in various grades, but denser than expanded ps)
(..."expanded" Styrofoam-polystyrene, the white stuff, can be substituted, but it will generally crumble and flake more than the extruded type)
(see much more about this above in Polystyrene Foams)

lessons & examples

Els in the Netherlands uses polystyrene foam (she calls styropor) for both permanent and removable armatures under polymer clay
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/styropor.html
gallery of many photos (at her older site)
http://www.fimo-frutsels.uwnet.nl/Foto_gallery.html

1. foam LEFT INSIDE clay object

foam objects completely covered with clay (like torsos, etc.) where the polystyrene foam will remain inside after baking
......Els covers the ps shape with aluminum foil before adding the clay so it won't shrink too much (this barrier also keeps it from sticking)
......Garie says (baby) oil will also act as a barrier to keep the ps from sticking and cracking the clay surface from cracking (...but will also keep the ps from shrinking long enough to keep the clay in correct shape? as is true with aluminum foil?)
.....using ArmorAll silicone spray or a "ca debonder" on the ps may keep it from sticking to the clay also (see Glues > Superglue Solvents, Repel Gel, etc.)
...Alan says one should leave a small gas release hole when baking (....but Els doesn't mention doing that)

Els' photos of various closed clay items
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/round_forms.html
lesson on making an elephant with a polystrene ball left inside
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/eng_princess.html
clay boat made with (carved or shaped) polystyrene as armature
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/images/Dsc00077.jpg
Mignon also covers polystyrene forms with aluminum foil, then completely covers with clay.... she later paints on the clay
polystyrene sheet foam used as a base (the gray part)
http://members.tripod.com/~MignonS/fimo/spiff.htm#
"floor" and short backdrop from polystrene ...with alchemist & table
http://members.tripod.com/~MignonS/fimo/alchemist.htm

to make his figures float in tubs, waterglobes, etc, Garie also leaves polystyrene balls inside his submersible polymer figures (scuba diver, submarine, turtle, shark, dolphin)
...he recommends using a thin layer of clay, and adding salt to the water if the polymer items are too heavy and don't float high enough
tiny ghost made by covering tiny ps ball with glow-in-the-dark clay... then testing amount of float
http://pcpolyzine.com/0209september/toilet03.html ....http://pcpolyzine.com/0209september/ghost.html
...some figures also have magnets pressed into the polystyrene (held with epoxy if nec.) so they can respond to other magnets (motion)
lesson: http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/aquafloats.htm (scuba diver)
lesson: http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/aquafloats2.htm (shark & dolphin)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/lochness.htm (submarine)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/smallest_aqua.htm (tiny scuba divers)

2. foam REMOVED

making hollow but open-sided clay shapes (like caves,. dioramas, boxes, bowls, etc.)

Els uses no aluminum foil over the polystyrene so it shrinks during baking (about half size)... then she removes it afterward
(there doesn't appear to be a problem with foam sticking to the clay if it's partly exposed)
photos of various open clay items by Els
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/hollow_forms.html

...lesson on using a round polystyrene ball to make a sunflower cave-bowl
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/sun_and_flower.html
...to make a bowl, Garie covered a ps foam hemisphere which had been tightly covered with aluminum foil.... dome side covered with clay slices
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/polymer_celestial.htm
(wouldn't this leave a textured surface inside the bowl from the alumin foil?... he did cover with liquid clay though --perhaps that fills in the texture some, in addition to giving gloss)
...one polstyrene packing peanut shape comes in the shape of a tiny bowl... could one of those be used?
"BOXES"
...lesson on using a cube shape of "packing" foam to make a one-side-open "haunted" house
http://fimo-dreams.hobbysite.info/haunted_house.html
...Garie's lesson on an open box (and lid)... he cut polystyrene into a block... smoothed it by rubbing on sandpaper...wrapped ps with aluminum foil (like a gift)... covered with large sheet of rectangular clay by laying block on it, and pulling clay up to cover all 4 sides... then pressed excess at each corner together ... trimmed off and smoothed joins ...covered the base clay with cane slices (including rim) & trimmed excess around opening...baked... made lid (for ways to make lids, see Vessels > Lids)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/polymer_gift.htm
...Shirlyn's (tall) miniature side table (...same box as Garie's, open on one side, but stood vertically... and 4 feet added to bottom on a short end)... baked... removed foil and foam... then made into a cabinet by adding a hinged door to open side after baking)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/polymer_student.htm
....there's a lot of potential for this, such as boxes of different shapes ...a 6 pointed star for Chanukah, a circle within a circle shape to make a wreath that is also a box..... I'm looking at the various styrafoam stashes I have here at home and thinking... hmmmm. Nora Jean

Garie uses aluminum foil on only one side of a foam armature for his Asian spoon (...not to keep the polystyrene from shrinking, but to have a non-polystyrene surface to apply the raw clay to)
...his lesson shows this.....first carving a rough spoon shape (with a serrated knife and craft knife?) from packing foam, covering just the underside of the shape with aluminum foil, then with a layer of clay (still just on the back side)... baking.... then removing foam armature (which will have shrunk) and alum. foil (...layer of liquid clay added and rebaked for gloss)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/polymer_spoon.htm

3. foam used as regular shrink plastic ...for a finished item
(not enclosed at all... not used as armature)

use polystyrene foam meat or vegetable trays ...foam cups, plates, bowls.... foam egg cartons, etc.
... any color foam

cut shapes from meat trays (flat or the ones with divots)
...poke any holes that you want (make them large)
...draw with permanent markers (or any markers) (or paints, etc?), and/or incise with stylus
...place pieces on flat aluminum foil on a baking sheet in middle of oven or toaster oven
......can also use special smooth paper boards made for shrinking plastics in oven
......if foam pieces stick to baking surface, may help to sprinkle a bit of talc or cornstarch on baking surface
...bake at (150 - 300° F) ...the lower the heat, the slower the shrinkage (at 300, fairly quick)
......will curl at first, and may puff up before finished... will generally shrink to about 1/3 size
....take pieces out when they're the size you want, or put back in for more shrinkage
....... (we left one 4" heart on the cookie sheet by mistake, and it shrank to 1/2" )

polystyrene foam cups used to make mini hats
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_paper_crafts_origami/article/0,,HGTV_3293_1370963,00.html

many other lessons for doing this: http://tinyurl.com/cldj2

(will pieces stick and stay together if laid on top of each other in the oven??... diff. colors, etc.)

(these disposable foam products are made of either molded expanded polystyrene beads or thin extruded polystyrene sheet ...and are not made by Dow-Styrofoam)

SHAPING, cutting... tools... gluing...painting, etc. (ps foams)

Polystyrene foams can be shaped before they're covered with clay and baked, if not too large (...cover with alum. foil or another release, if needed... see above , Uses)

Extruded" polystyrene foams are prefered to expanded polystyrene foams when finer details are desired in the final foam, and just for ease of carving/shaping.
.......extruded Styrofoam is found at most building centers as "insulation" more cheaply than at craft stores... density will vary between even extruded foams though.. so check if that's important)
.."expanded" Styrofoam (the white polystyrene) can be used, but it will generally crumble and flake more than the extruded type
(see more info on all this above in Polystyrene Foams)

SUMMARY:
...to cut .... use a hot tool of some type (best) ...or a kitchen knife (serrated usually works best)
...to shape ...rub with a file, rough sandpaper, or even other broken-edge foam
...to smooth ... use finer sandpaper, wire brush or wood rasps ... can also coat with hydrocal, air-dry clays, etc.. for even more smoothness

coverings... polystyrene foams can also be covered with various air-dry "clays," etc., to add to more to a shape and/or or to give an even more smooth, rigid surface
...epoxy putties (Apoxie, Aves, Milliput, etc), plaster and FIXIT, Hyrdrocal, paper clays, papier mache, paper mash, acrylic modeling pastes (Liquitex's, etc.), etc.
...they can also be covered with polymer clay if they'll fit in an oven, but will shrink unless covered with aluminum foil... if intentionally shrunk though, can be removed to make a hollow shape

Airborne dust from sanding polystyrene foams, as well as fumes created by cutting them with hot tools, are not especially good for lungs, so wear a mask or do outdoors, etc.

Garie rough-cuts and carves the armature for his tiny spoon, made on a form of white expanded polystyrene, with a serrated knife and an Xacto knife... for photos
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/polymer_spoon.htm

a wood-burning tool commonly available at craft stores... the kit includes an electrically-heated pencil-like device that is normally used to char the surface of a piece of wood, making patterns
...the same tool can be used to melt designs into styrofoam....but you should use a lamp-dimmer to lower the heat output (and ventilation)
...Halloween tombstones, most made with ps foam from Home Depot + wood burning tool + spray paint (no clay)
http://www.fabulousfoods.com/holidays/halloween/tombstones.html
tombstone Styrofoam, at hgtv???

As guides for great straight cuts, I clamp two metal yardsticks on either side of the foam

more on cutting sheets of foam (a hill with inset ramps)
http://www.thepalantir.org/ca/terrain/tdh001/tdh001.htm

hot tools for cutting and shaping polystrene foams:
simple cardboard tube-type hot-wire cutter --often found inexpensively ($20?) at craft and hobby stores
... these can cut into the foam only as deep as their opening though --about 6"?
http://www.thepalantir.org/ca/terrain/tdh001/tdh001.htm
Hot Wire Foam Factory sells more hot tools... wire cutter, knife, saws, engravers, shapable freehand router, scroll saw table, etc., which can cut anywhere in the foams (even very large sheets) and also allows the cutting of blind holes, fine cutting, grooves for wires, etc.
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/products/customer/home.php?cat=108
(Micromark-- heavier duty version
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81622 )
free online videos showing tools in use
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/video/video.htm
...As with any other petrochemical, the fumes emitted by heating extruded foam CAN be a hazard, but as with most any other household "danger" it's a bit overstated. If you cut the foam with a wire cutter, just make sure there's ventilation (a fan blowing in your direction and a couple of windows open)--or do it outside..
...(someone also said there were virutally no fumes becuase the tool only heated just enough to cut)

Use stacked layers of foam to make your own foam "blocks" for shaping (especially for large items):
...foam sheets can first be stacked and attached together with Spray 77 by 3M, or with glue guns (low-temp) or white glues but put in places where won't need to cut though
..Colleen Black used high density "Pinkboard extruded EPS foam" (or could use blue) to make a large dog
....she measured her drawing in layers with calipers, then marked and cut sections of foam based on each dimension of the body-and-head (with a jig saw), made a hole in the middle of the first few bottom pieces, then stacked those together (over a pipe on a base for extra stability while sculpting) with hot glue, then added the remaining layers
....she cut off the corners of the foam layers with a hot tool, then shaped the body with wood rasps and sandpaper
....for legs and tail she used armature wire wrapped with 20 g wire, then pushed on pieces of foam for approximate shape with hot glue between, shaped the legs and tail
....for ears, she shaped armature wire as ears for the dog, then covered with bits of dampened plaster tape ...after drying, pushed ends of wire into head with used hot glue, then painted with plaster and water, smoothing and shaping
....she attached legs to body in same way, but added squares of plaster strips around join
....then removed from pipe and base, and brushed on another coat of plaster to all
lesson: http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_painting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3282_4224741,00.html
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/patart_cblack.htm (3rd to last photo, in background)
...this maker used a high density EPS "blue foam" to achieve such detail for the skelton (but also says "white beaded foam"?)...foam was coated with hydrocal which gave a very realistic bone-like look and feel
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/patskeleton.htm

Or use stacked layers for making terrain, etc
http://www.battlefront.co.nz/Default.aspx?tabid=110&art_id=233&kb_cat_id=24
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/2_gaming.htm
...hill in a diorama created with 3 layers of white R-Gard Insulfoam (less hgh density?) cut out progresssively smaller, then stacked and glued with low temp hot glue or spray on Super 77 glue, and covered with landscaping
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/patd56_boboconner.htm
insulation foam used many ways in dioramas, etc....DB: also add to Making scenes/landscaping
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/2_dept56.htm (many!)

can also make mosaics on foam
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/patart_mosaicmatt.htm
http://eclecticsculpture.com/portfolio.php
with cement mix http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_mosaics/article/0,1789,HGTV_3258_5435362_06,00.html

adhesives used to bond polystyrene foam to itself, or bond to other materials, should not contain solvents (will dissolve it).
....low temp "hot glue" guns are okay
.......high temp hot glue guns reach 385° F and will melt polystyrene foam (though the unhealthy burning doesn't occur till 49.), but low temp guns which reach only 250° F won't melt it and are even suggested for use with Styrofoam)
.......if using a a high temp gun, let the glue cool for a second or so before contacting the foam
...white glues (permanent type)... a poly(vinyl acetate) based (PVA - white glue) adhesive is satisfactory for foams that will not be immersed in water
.......wait till dry to "sculpt" or cut through glue?)
...a setting type of adhesive (e .g., epoxy) is recommended when optimum resistance to moisture or heat is required
HOWEVER...especially when using the extruded ps foams, some are so dense and/or thick they won't allow air or moisture between them to get to the glue, so some glues may never "dry" or "cure"
......e.g., white glues, wood glues... (polyurethane) glues such as Gorilla glue... to try a glue, put it between two sheets, then separate after 24 hrs. and check.
...spray adhesives... like Super 77 spray adhesive by 3M
.....can begin using your glued material almost immediately
.....spray adhesive lightly onto each surface, wait until tacky, and then press together for the most immediate bond... or spray only one surface and then press together immediately (can still wiggle the pieces around a bit before everything sets). Tom M.

paints ... also flocking, landscaping items
... any type of paint can be used on ps foams as long as they don't contain petroleum-based solvents ... so acrylics (liquid or spray), latex, etc.
....... if using non-permanent paints (poster paint, watercolor, chalks, etc), you'll probably want to seal those afterwards
... can apply white glue, then coat with the colored flocking and bits of landscaping grasses, sand, gravel, etc. (coarse to fine) that's sold for making model railroading scenery, as well as larger bits for "scrub" bushes, rocks, trees, etc., or make faux water ... as above, can also shape foams to look like large rocks, hills, cliffs, etc.
.... can also apply coatings of hypertufa, various other cement mixes, etc.

some of the following plastics may be polystyrenes also

(see also Armatures-Temporary or Armatures-Permanent???)

Misc. Plastic items

ping pong balls

...Years ago, Nan Roche was covering ping pong balls with clay, and baking them..... she said some brands would work, and others would collapse. Kat
...If they're covered with clay, they bake fine …baked alone and uncovered, they come out looking like something else besides a ping pong ball!
....I used a Wilson brand ping pong ball and covered it with clay... then I poked a hole (through the clay and ball) to allow air to escape. It worked just fine covered and baked at 275°... and Premo clay (that brand is a little stretchy though --would work differently with otherclay brands?)
...ping pong balls are made from celluoid plastic

You can't bake a ping pong ball without providing a hole for the expanding air inside of it to escape through --without a hole, your (clay-covered) ball will look like the surface of the moon with wild distortion and cracks after baking.
…I read that too but figured that if the ball was covered with raw clay, it would have difficulty bursting into flames anyway since there would be little oxygen inside for the flames to feed on.... But I've not had any problem with them at all, and I think I've made about 75 of them now..... I bake them at a slightly lower temperature for a little longer than other items, and I always put the hole. Dotty
Dotty's lesson:
.... I carefully cover the ball with clay (cane slices or whatever)
…then I use a long doll needle (6") to poke a hole in the clay-covered ball, from one side to the other ..or put the holes wherever you want your cord to go through
…then I put a wood skewer through the holes, enlarging them somewhat and making sure they aren't too tight as I want the air to escape around the skewer
…I suspend the skewer over a deep muffin pan, etc. …then bake at 265 for 20 minutes …and let cool in the oven.
... Each ping pong bead was sanded and buffed after baking
….sometimes I use Fimo spirit varnish, and sometimes Future …I find wiping to be better method for applying Future to large ping pong beads. Dotty

tip re threading these ... first use a small plastic straw to run through the holes (in the baked ball)... then run the your cording through the straw (the thread will now know where to come out!). Nancy in Atlanta

....I made cane slice patterns of every color and type on my balls, & Sarajane covered hers with beautiful caned Japanese ladies. Dotty
…I made one with faux jade (...after the base jade layer was baked, I sanded it, then carved it with a linolium block tool, then antiqued it with acrylic paint, and sanded it a bit more and buffed). ...someone bought it from me and put a wonderful tassle on the bottom of it made from tiny beads of real jade. Dotty
...works really well for a hollow bead than can have a cord run through it. Patty
...Pier Voulkos used to make large earrings with them?
..Garie and his students make figures with ping pong balls (some are Pokemon)... for some he painted the ball first, then added baked onlays, legs, eyes, etc.
.........others were covered with clay http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/resourceful.htm (panda, etc.)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/pinponballs.htm (for more Pokemon figures, see Kids > Robots, Monsters, etc.)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/resourceful.htm
...these might make good Christmas ornaments for the tree too, especially with the beads hanging from the bottom.
...for a tall, lollipop-type tree (or topiary), poke a dowel through (into?) a ping pong ball and glue together… cover it all with green clay
….....press small leaf shaped pieces of clay into the ball with a needle tool, using the tool to keep leaf shape and make center vein
….....to bake, put the stick into a glass bottle tall enough not to touch the bushy part of the plant…make a pot, then glue tree in it. Kim2
...One of my graduated circle cutters is just the right size to cut discs that exactly cover half a ping pong ball (takes two)
…...that way i can put cane slices onto a sheet of background clay, roll flat, cut and apply the disc to the ping ball (then only the seam needs to be smoothed, resulting in less smoothing time, less blurred canes). Sarajane (…glues 2 together for a hollow ball, or could just use as hemispheres?)

instead of ping pong balls, why not use small glass Christmas ornaments? …you could cover up to the stem with clay, or leave the stem and some of the surface of the ball exposed for your hole… after baking, either leave the glass in, or break it out. Sherry

more plastic items

For covering plastic eggs with clay, see Eggs > Plastic (many will work fine).

Flo's plastic toothbrush holders (travel holder for ingle toothbrush) --covered and embellished with clay
... Walmart had two different types...the one in the photo worked well in the oven, but the other one was somewhat flexible and collapsed in the oven.. . . . I always check for the recycle # logo on the bottom of plastic items and if it is a 5 or higher it will bake, otherwise you take your chances. Flo
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/1067337534045318713IJGDpv

fake fingernails... I saw a DIY? show where a manicurist did a floral sculpt with poly clay onto an acrylic fingernail ...I hear her voice saying how perfectly the fingernail baked in oven together with the clay...( believe finished piece was a pendant). beadizzygrl

I have made bubble bottles out of the little (plastic) shampoo bottles from hotels. I made the wands from the tops of margarine tubs. I just cut out a wand shape and made the hole with a paper punch. If you are making the top of the clay bottle from clay, couldn't you just make a wand out of wire? Or if you chose to use the plastic from a tub, perhaps you could make a slit in the top with the end of the plastic wand, pull it out and then glue it in after the top is baked. Genevieve

(eye) glasses. I just broke them, and I was thinking about patching them together (rigid, of course) and decorating them with polymer clay... . also reading glasses?
```when I was in grade school I remember the optician had a drawer in his desk which contained a box of heated sand into which he'd plunge my frame..
```If the frames are plastic, as are the lenses, won't the lenses pop out so you can pop them back in later .. .
```Actually, I believe what they did was put a strong foil type tape on the top of her glasses to hold them, then they attached the canes to the glasses. Don't know if they prebaked the canes, then glued or put them on then baked. Either way would work.

As long as Mamadude brought the subject up, I was thinking of covering some cosmetic compacts myself.. . . and other cosmetic items? Or just use a mirror (and a powder form) to create one from scratch?
...Each compact is round, and gold in color. It has a round recess in the top that is about 1.5mm deep, to hold your clay. Each one comes in its own black box, and comes with a nice, soft, black, drawstring pouch. Each one has two mirrors, one is regular magnification, the other is 2x. The price will be $4.95 for 9 or fewer. Larry

(I covered) a plastic index card box from the office supply store. I tested it in the oven before baking, it held up just fine.. I used my finger and Rub 'N Buff (on the Balinese filigree). The shine is Future. I sanded down to 1500 first, then applied 4 coats of Future. I was trying to get an Asian lacquer look. Terry

I haven't covered my staple remover yet but I did test bake it in the oven for 45 min.at 250 degrees. It did not melt or change shape at all...I got the staple remover at K-Mart for $1 I think.

In the past, I've purchased these little kits that include a half dozen small (1 1/2 - 2") plastic flower pots, little peat plugs that fit inside exactly, and a package of seeds. I embellish the plastic pots with polyclay designs (bake??), insert the peat pellet and a seed, and give it to a friend or whatever. The designs applied to the plastic pots have proven to be quite robust, and I know of several that are still intact after 3 or 4 years. The red clay pots (at least those I've kept) have had a high mortality rate due to the failure of the red (earthware?) clay, not the polyclay. wazoo

(My long-ish wizard's wand) is made over two Bic stick pen barrels placed end-to-end with bamboo skewers inside for added support (just grabbed whatever was laying around the clay table!). Denise
(for covering pens, see Pens)

(for things that aren't bakable or won't fit in the oven, baked polymer can always be glued to things)
....I'm going to make some tiled pieces of polymer clay and adhere them to my computer monitor to create a computer work of art.. Dave
...My computer monitor has polymer clay morning glories and vines on it! . . . I stuck unbaked clay on my monitor around the edges (to get the right shape)... then I made some (florwers & vines) the right way and baked them and glued them on. LOL! It is fun to decorate your computer. Elizabeth
...something I did that was a BIG hit was a large polymer clay frame for my brother's computer monitor ...he works by the Monterey Bay aquarium so I did a underwater scene, complete with fish, seaweed, clams and the requisite sea dragon at the top!!! It …covered the ugly beige plastic area (that frames the monitor) Syndee (see Frames+Mirrors for tips)
....How about.... if we made a sorta "shelf-like" piece that would just sit across the top of the computer.. and have the "monitor-frame" sorta attached to THAT.... Then we could just drop it into place & remove it at will-- with no glue needed.... We could even put a little rim around the top shelf piece, so we could set other doo-dads up there without worrying about them falling off....We could use that mesh (small-grid Wireform Mesh) stuff to reinforce the whole thing... hmmmmmm.... Joanie
...I stick things all over my monitor, but I use Blu-Tac. As long as the things aren't too heavy, they'll stick fine on the face of the monitor frame. ... the heavier things are sitting on top, but stuck down with Blu-Tac, so that when I rearrange the desk or tilt the monitor everything stays put, and so far, the Blu-Tac hasn't damaged the frame at all. Peels off cleanly. Elizabeth
...Why not see if you can get your hands on that stretch adhesive by 3M. 3M makes those removable wall hooks that stick quite well until you stretch the adhesive backing. I think you can buy just the adhesive strips. Desiree

covers for lighters
...Joanie’s decorated covers for Bic lighters http://www.pbase.com/image/160081
(there are various ways to go about making a sleeve for a lighter:)
...buy a metal Bic "blank" and cover it with clay .....silver-colored base metal, cost about 1.65 each ... 1-800-366-2156
...... http://www.rings-things.com/ (click on Search in the left column, and type 30-333 in the Stock Number search box)
...or, cover the lighter with your raw clay sheet on top of a thin sheet of paper or tracing paper (or alum foil, but no crinkles)
......let clay and lighter sit overnight (or freeze for few hours, or at least a while) to firm up the clay a bit
......remove clay sleeve and bake, standing up, with a roll of paper inside (can also stuff lightly with cotton or tissues)
......when barely cool enough to handle, remove clay sleeve and place over lighter while cooling to create and retain shape
...or, a clay "form" in the size and shape of a Bic lighter could also be made so that the raw clay covering could be baked on the form (with paper or alum. foil as a release) ... the size could be arrived at by trial and error
......or a wad of well-conditioned raw clay could be shoved into a baked clay sleeve or metal blank sleeve (which had been sprayed with ArmorAll or lined with paper/alum foil), pulled out, baked
.........then used as a form for the decorative clay covering (with more paper alum. foil
........ be sure and measure this solid form though and if it's swelled at all, sand it down a bit (200-400 grit wet-dry sandpaper with a little water). Diane B.
...this is how I get the top off the lighter. The simple answer is that I give it to my husband and say "do it" and he does....involves taking it outside, submersing it in a 5-gallon bucket of water and forcing the top off with pliers....then he drills a hole in the bottom to make sure that there is good ventilation when I cook it inside the clay...( I also wait at least two days after he does this to make sure that all of the butane has evaporated). Ernestine 24
...if the finished baked cover is ever a bit too big for the lighter, leave the label on the lighter or add an address label to the side, to snug the fit a bit. Laurel
......if the shell is bent and you can't get the lighter back into it after baking it, rebake and while very warm (and still flexible) slide the lighter back into the shell and quickly dip in cool water. Laurel

cell phone covers (face plates):
I recently bought a new cell phone, and the vendor sent me three (!) interchangeable (boring hard plastic) covers for it. . . .I gave it a quick roughing up with 220 grit sandpaper beforehand, so the clay would have something to stick to.... I then laid the very thin sheet of the (leaf slices) patterned clay over the faceplate, and rolled it rather firmly into place with the acrylic roller. This gave me little dents where the holes in the faceplate lie, and I then used a craft knife to cut out all those wretched little holes (and got out eeyr little bit but that part turned out to be a waste of time.) After the faceplate was baked, I simply used the sanding/grinding bit on my Dremel tool to clear out the edges of the button holes.... I sanded the face plate with 400-1000 grit sandpaper, then buffed it with a muslin wheel. Lastly, I gave it a few coats of Future, which really made the design "pop" . . . I didn't do anything special to keep the thing from distorting, besides making sure that I didn't overbake. 15-20 minutes at 275. . . . BTW, I've had loads of compliments on my "new" phone, and several people have asked me to make faceplates for them. If I can get a decent rate, I'll make them, otherwise I have some really cool ideas for Holiday gifts. Kathy N-V