Gen. info.
Groups
(online) & Articles
Muscle-hand-arm
(& allover) problems, suggestions
....carpal
tunnel.... other
hand/arm/shoulder problems
....after
physical 'injury'.... heat therapies, etc.
Tools ....work
areas & tables,chairs...(heavily) assistive
devices
Shows
(SPECIAL groups:)
Eyesight
...low vision... blindness
.......clay
brands, working w/ colors,
.......project
ideas
Kids with special needs (ideas
for)
Fun ideas
Seniors
& assisted living & Stroke,etc..
Emotional
issues & disabilities
...using clay for personal exploration, mental focusing,
.......and stress, emotional trauma, pain relief, depression, conflicts
...death,
loss & grieving
Some polymer activities
...for all disabilities & needs
Misc
(for all topics)
Disabilities (claying with)
Gen. info.
I have found the more creative I am, the better I feel. So don't stop being creative! ... it is what will distract you from whatever is bugging your nerve endings, and there are usually ways to help you get around things you can not do right off the bat... patsy
other helpful pages here at GlassAttic
(much
of the info in Kids/Beginners
also could helpful with disabilities ...esp.the'Teaching & Working
with Kids' sub-category)
(for info on health and
safety issues regarding polymer clay, look in Safety/Health/Cleaning)
(for
possible safety issues re being left-handed, see Safety/Health/Cleaning)
(also see more groups and info on disabilities under Miscellaneous below)
clay disability GROUPS & articles
(for more info on how to use online groups, see Groups--Online)
Clayers
With Disabilities: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/clayerswithdisabilities
(new July 2002)
Many polymer clay artists have disabilities, and also many
others would like to better accommodate clayers with disabilities in their
classes and guilds.. . . Many disability professionals would like
to incorporate polymer clay into therapeutic activities, but are not quite
sure how to do so. This group is for such people.. . . on a professional or
hobbyist level. . . and discuss how our disabilities positively and negatively
effect clay-related activities.
For more information on why I'm starting this
list, please visit http://artistcrafts.com/cwd/background.htm.
To subscribe, send an e-mail to: clayerswithdisabilities-subscribe@yahoogroups.com,
or join from the list's yahoogroups homepage (listed above).
Jewelery Makers in Pain http://groups.yahoo.com/group/JewelryMakersinpain (new 2001 0r 2002) . . . for those of us who have varying illnesses, pain, etc. 'The focus of this group is to provide a forum for discussion, support and information sources for beaders, jewelers and wire wrappers who have autoimmune diseases, chronic fatigue syndrome, rheumatoid and fibromyalgia.' . Check it out! It's nice to talk to people who understand that we're not just complaining and making it all up. FYI. Krista
Friends with Fibro (non-polymer)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/friendswithfibro
...fibromyalgia and related syndromes...if you want to just vent, seek sympathy
or just cry on a shoulder, we are here for you. We also have a live chat for members
on Sundays at 8:00pm EST.
. . .They are a good group. Angie
Sue
Salvatore's column archives in Polyzine, 'Art in Transition'
--which deals with using clay while having a disability, as well as safety, etc.,
for all.
....('adaptive studio layouts, ergonomics, space organization, inspiration,
and ways to dig deep when it seems there is no place left to dig. It is the wish
of the staff at Polymer Clay Polyzine that this column becomes an interactive
resource for support, technical advice and of course, art through polymer clay.')
http://pcpolyzine.com/february2001/art.html
(Sue's history, & inspiration)
http://pcpolyzine.com/march2001/art.html
(ergomonics & safety)
http://pcpolyzine.com/april2001/art.html
(attending retreats & classes --things for *everyone* to consider)
(further articles
suspended because of health)
MUSCLE-HAND-ARM problems .... or all over
Those
pins-and-needles sensations in your hand may be from your neck and shoulders
(C7, T1, T2), especially if you notice it in one side of your hands and some fingers
more than others (different dermotomes).
Pinched or smushed
nerves (from
muscle tension)
shut down
the blood supply.
So pull those shoulders back and down. Roll them and
see if that alleviates the tingles. Vicki Sergent
(fibromyalgia can make one especially susceptible to repetitive motion injuries and these kinds of long lasting reactions)
Please be careful
with your hands though... When you feel them beginning to tingle/deaden,
STOP NOW ... or you can have a problem for a long time. Actually, when you feel
them deaden like that you should already have stopped...I know it's a lot
like trying to stop a fast-moving train, but it's ultimately worth it (unfortunate
voice of long experience here). Diane B.
... I second that!!!. You lose
much less time from claying if you STOP before pushing too far. Much less
than if you have to deal with the inflammation. This is a very tough lesson, but
I'm really glad I finally learned its not 'quitting', its 'tool management'.
Sarajane
(see Sanding for suggestions on making sanding easier for hands/arms/shoulders)
(see Tools category for info on sanding with a Dremel, etc., especially for people with arm/joint problems)
repetitive
strain injuries . . . RSIs encompass a broad range of disorders affecting
different parts of the body.. . . carpal tunnel syndrome , tendon-related disorders
(tendinitis, tenosynovitis, DeQuervain's disease), thoracic outlet syndrome, epicondylitis
(tennis elbow) and ganglion cysts. RSIs are also known as repetitive motion
injuries (RMI), musculoskeletal injuries (MSI), etc.
......An RSI occurs
when tissue is subjected to thousands of repetitive motions. ..According
to one theory, the movements cause microscopic tears in muscles, tendons and ligaments.
The tearing leads to inflammation, and the debris left by inflammation forms scar
tissue that binds muscles and stiffens tendons. The injured tissue contracts,
decreasing its range of motion. Tendons normally glide smoothly inside lubricated
sheaths. If the tendons are damaged, the lubricating fluid dries out, causing
tendon and sheath to adhere and chafe. Unless the cycle of injury is interrupted,
the tissue fails to recover fully, and a long-term, chronic problem results. .......see
much more in RSI's here: http://home.interlog.com/~acantor/csun1995.htm
. . . about that repetitive strain on your right forefinger, have you tried swapping your mouse? You can switch which button is the primary one in your control panel. The first 15 minutes of using it with your left hand will make you loopy, but if you manage to get past that, it's surprising how quickly you can adjust to it. Judi
homemade, small heated
fabric bags of flax seed are flexible and nice to squeeze
for those of us with carpel tunnel syndrome…caliopegreen
.... or freeze
some rice bags (or use other fillers) then use them for computer wrist rests
if you have carpal tunnel syndrome. (make a couple of long tubes)
...patterns
for making regular "rice heating bags," plus mitten bags, foot warmer
bags, eye bags, neck & shoulder bags, etc. http://www.diamondthreadworks.com/microwave_heating_bags.htm
(see bottom of page for whole text)
I went through ergonomic training via the state of Washington, (used to be my employer). One of the biggest problems creating long term injury is NOT moving around every 20 - 30 minutes or so. The human body needs movement to keep blood circulation at it's optimal rate - the oxygen in the blood relaxes tired muscles and tissues,etc. So actually it's good to move around frequently. Some people change from sitting to standing while they work so that their movements can be more whole body. They do this for about five minutes every half hour or so - that way they don't have to stop working. Meredith
So I set my timer for 2 hours, and even if I just get a cup of coffee or a sandwich, I stretch, wiggle fingers and toes and rotate my neck. I have carpal tunnel and tendonitis. ..also ...Ibuprofen <Advil, Motrin> is not just a pain-reliever, it's an anti-inflammatory, so if it gets bad, take some. Is your work surface at a comfortable height? Do you have an alternate place to work? Sometimes I find that if I move from one table to another, it helps. Not always possible, I know. ..Corinne/Don
(I work for a neurologist and have what is
called nerve radiculopathy) ...I get severe pains starting in my wrist
and shooting to my pointer finger and swelling my thumb then radiates
up my arm to my elbow . . . I only have flare ups about 2 x a year and
asked him for something to help when it is bad other than pills.
He told me
this.....
--First - stop the crafts for a few days
--Second - it
is NOT carpal tunnel (that is a totally different nerve and many peoplethink they
have)
--Third - do not wear jewelery or tight sleeves or a
watch during the flare up.
--Fourth - he gave me a prescription for Ethyl
Chloride. This is a refrigerant spray that sort of freezes the
area and relieves the pain immediately and for a couple of hours. This stuff is
great! Athletes use it for muscle pulls etc. It doesn't make you loopy and you
can use it as often as needed. I would highly suggest asking your doctor if this
spray is right for you. Oh, I don't have insurance but my pharmacy only charges
all of $13 a bottle! (some pharmacies don't carry it though) Vikki
As for neck and back getting back to pre-accident - I know what you mean. I was in a head-on in 1987 and have never been o.k. since. I discovered recently that Kava Root extract, (from the health food store), has helped me feel the best I have ever felt since my accident. I take it before I go to bed - it acts like a muscle relaxer - amazing stuff. My neck is much improved from this stuff - I can't say enough about it. Meredith
http://www.carpal.com/
--shows where the nerves in the hand travel, and the ligament which can trap the
median nerve (also one of several makers of therapeutic gloves)
carpal-tunnel
syndrome
. . . .This is the condition where the nerves of the middle
of the palm, thumb, index, and middle finger become inflamed. from
entrapment of the median nerve. . . can cause pain and damage (similar to above,
but different nerves)
"The carpal "tunnel"
is where the median nerve and some of the tendons to your fingers pass through
the wrist. This "tunnel" lies just beneath the creases on the middle of the inside
of your wrist. . . There's not a lot of extra room
here and if things get tight, there's extra pressure on the nerve.
...To
feel where this is...."straighten out your wrist and fingers so your
hand's straight in line with your forearm as if it were resting flat on a table.
Now feel the inside of your wrist where the creases are ...Then, bend
your hand and wrist back. You'll notice that the inside
of your wrist in that area gets harder...this is putting pressure on
those structures in the carpal tunnel. . . .
.... Activities
that stress the tendons in your wrist over and over
are a type of repetitive trauma, and are a major cause of carpal tunnel
syndrome.
......When you use muscles or tendons a lot, they tend to get bigger
and stronger. That's OK for your bicep since it's not in a confined space.
However, when the tendons in your carpal tunnel get bigger from overuse, they
put more pressure on the median nerve which also is in the carpal tunnel. This
pressure causes Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. . . ." (so best to keep wrist in
neutral, straight position as much as possible)
http://www.docflash.com/carpal.htm
Julie Wisecraft's article on her carpal
tunnel experience (& surgery)
http://pcpolyzine.com/0205may/carpal.html
I actually asked all the therapists when I was having therapy who they recommended, and they all liked my doctor so that was who I called. he also was the only surgeon in town doing the endoscopic surgery which is much less invasive, and you heal quicker, and supposedly have less pain from the surgery, cuz they don't open up your whole wrist. just two little incisions. one in the wrist, and one in the palm of the hand. can't even see the scars now unless you look very closely. the surgery is painfull, still. but from what I understand, not near as painful as the regular release surgery. Kellie
...I'm
the woman who wrote the letter to Sep 2002, PCPolyzine about
Active Release Therapy. I did so to suggest to people like yourself that they
try it BEFORE having surgery. Compared to surgery it's inexpensive, non-invasive
and has no side effects. . . . To find a therapist in your area log on to http://www.activerelease.com
. . . Read all about it at http://pcpolyzine.com/previous.html,
Letters to the Editor, Sep 02. Pat D.
....Try and find a Chiropractor who knows
Applied kinesiology, especially the course designed by Dr. George Goodheart.
The chiropractor should test your wrist, arm, shoulder and neck muscles. Correct
any misalignment in those areas. Work on the muscles and probably advise you on
nutrition. A strap or tape around the wrist is a temporary strenghting technique.
Surgery can often be avoided if Carpal Tunnel is caught early. Re-think how you
work the clay and use an ice pack when you are sore. We have a lot of people
in the office with this, including me, and most of them respond very well. The
treatment shouldn't require tons of visits or a lot of cost. Call first and ask
questions to get the best DC for your problem. Madam Rini
....What the doctor told him to do was to take very hot steamy towels and
drape them over his forearms for 20-30 minutes before working. Then he
does some stretches, and he's ready to go. This has worked very well for him and
finally solved his problem. . . . two motions that were particularly bad.
One was the act of pinch-reducing triangular-shaped canes. The other
was when he rolled down a round cane, he would push on it starting with his fingers
and roll it down to his wrists. The doctor said that he should never
use his wrists to roll the canes, ONLY USE YOUR HANDS.
Also avoid mixing
colors with your fingers –it’s very hard on the thumbs.
There
are various kinds of 'carpal tunnel gloves', which are supposed to help
prevent or stop carpal tunnel irritation
...those available at quilt shops
(spandex?)
...SoftFlex Computer Gloves: These gloves have a soft pad on either
side of the median nerve to prevent its compression while typing: http://www.carpal.com/
(this website feels that some carpal tunnel syndrome is misdiagnosed and is simply
the result of resting the wrist on the keyboard);
.... other companies offer
similar gloves
. . .exercises
to prevent carpal tunnel. She told me to pull, or bend, my fingers and
thumb (with other hand pulling them) to a 90-degree angle toward my shoulder for
30 seconds about three times per day. I have done this and have actually been
able to pull my hand to less than a 90-degree angle after some months of doing
the exercise. Has it helped??? I notice that my hands don't feel as fatigued.
mamadude
Another great thing to avoid carpal tunnel is to put your hands together,
fingertips to fingertips and push your hands together without palms touching.
This stretches your fingers and hands and takes the pressure off the tunnels that
all the tendons run through. Meredith
...I found this on line http://www.mydailyyoga.com/yoga/rsi.html
check it out it has some great caple tunnel prevention stretches. . .if I can
avoid surgery. . .WHOOPEEE! Dawn
...you might try an excercise our massage
therapist taught us. Stand in a doorway and put your hands on the inside of the
door frame (flat on it) about waist high, then lean forward, stretching your wrists.
Try that again about a foot up, and so on until your hands are above you on the
door frame. It gives the DH and I tremendous relief when we do it regularly. Tess
there are many small pieces of equipment
which will exercise various parts of the hands/arms for prevention, treatment
to be found online;
there are also free exercises online
(causes
of carpal tunnel, etc.)
Yes, that's it exactly. It's repeated
stress that does it--not the activity itself, but the repetition. There are certain
things that are worse than others--for instance...
do NOT put pressure
on a bent wrist, ie smashing clay onto a table with wrist bent and
straight arm.
Don't support weight on bent wrists--no push ups. No
carrying trays like a waiter in the movies. Don't even spend a long time
with your hands on your hips.
Keep your feet on the floor as
you sit and work, not crossed, and sit up stright (mom knew some stuff, didn't
she?)
Avoid hard gripping/squeezing work if possible Wire cutters,
pliers, hole punches through leather--limit how much time you do these
things,
Also avoid vibrational work--give up that jackhammer hobby--
and watch wrist positions when clutching the steering wheel or bike
handles. One of the WORST offenders for me was pushing a baby carriage
several miles a day going back and forth to school to drop off and pick up my
older son. Bent wrists, pushing weight, and vibrating down the sidewalk as the
pains shot up my arm to the elbow....I don't do this anymore, haven't in years,
and won't again soon! It was amazing how much this ONE activity would set off
CTS.
.......VARY your activites--if I have a 8 hours on the computer
day, I make sure to stop ever once in a while and do something else...play some
piano, wash dishes, or stand and stretch--something that uses your hands in different
ways, uses different muscles and such.
B vitamins were very helpful
for me as well--I can't take anti-inflammatories due to allergies, so I have learned
to NOT set it off in the first place, and to
STOP RIGHT NOW when I
get twingy/buzzy feelings. Then I can do more later, as opposed to the
old 'I'll just finish this in spite of pain, its almost close to done' thing which
inevitably caused me to spend two weeks in wrist braces. Life is very hard when
you have to brush your teeth by sticking the brush into your brace and moving
your head back and forth... Sarajane
....unfortunately, I've heard from a number of people that carpal tunnel surgery didn't really work for them...
OTHER
hand-arm-shoulder problems
+ ulnar neuropathy
(a 'neuropathy' is an abnormal and usually degenerative state of the nervous system or nerves...pain, loss of feeling,etc.)
ulnar 'neuropathy'.....a condition
where the nerves of the little finger and outside of the palm beneath
it, and the inside of the ring finger become inflamed.
It's
usually caused by a motion repeated under 'stress', or by frequent and
lengthy compression on the ulnar nerve --which travels to the hand by way
of the outside of the elbow, from the neck (so this problem can also be coming
from the neck; if so, consider changing the way you
sit for long periods...avoid the head-stuck-out posture
and try to keep the neck relatively straight)
I got mine from sitting at the keyboard performing two keystrokes over and over
again which required my fingers to be somewhat split apart under tension (changing
text to hyperlinks in Dreamweaver right here at GlassAttic..ugh).
...Changing
my chair also helped whatever part of it may have been coming from my neck,
and was vitally important.
...I also now always allow my arms to 'hang'
from my shoulders as much as possible rather than resting
them on the keyboard, chair arms, etc., especially when this caused my
elbows to be away from my body).
...I also make
sure my arms and (straight) wrists form a 90 degree angle while at the
computer for long periods.
...Also, avoid carrying heavy things with
bent elbows.
The things above have all helped tremendously,
but I still have only partial feeling in my little finger. The beginning six months
were as close to hell as I ever want to go though (irritated-nerve pain is like
nothing else!), but now I don't have the pain part.
It's important to have
this checked out by a neurologist as soon as possible if you notice numbness
like this, because once the nerve is injured it often gets worse and worse
(particularly the older you are . . . ), and the effects can easily take several
years to go away (even if you do the right things from then on...that only
stops the damage from progressing even further) (see the part about STOPPING immediaitely
if you feel anything similar, above). Diane B.
my neurologist also suggested avoiding anything similar (to carrying the 4x8 plywood sheets) like carrying grocery bags with bent arms (now I use only plastic grocery bags, carry them at the end of straight arms, and swing them onto the counter with straight arms if they're heavy . . .it seems to work!) Diane B.
stretches
...
we got to change our position, stretch the hands fully extended
and fingers splayed if we've been typing or clutching small items a lot..
....Vary
the activities also will help during healing. We need to stand up and stretch
our spines after hunching over doing our clay work. Nora Jean
computer
set ups:
-the keyboard should be lower than most people have
it; to measure where that should be, here are the guidelines:
---upper arms
should be hanging loosely from their sockets (and should be kept fairly
close to the body when typing...elbows not out)
---forearms/wrists/hands
should be straight, with the fingers curving a bit down; and they should
be parallel to the floor;
---(wrists or forearms should
not be resting heavily on anything, especially while
typing --which would keep all the parts of the arm from moving around as much
as possible, preventing tensed muscles);
---the monitor should be centered
in front of the keyboard letters,
--and it should be raised or lowered to
make your eye level is at least even with, or higher than, the center of
the screen (most screens tilt also if that should help)... you don't want to be
looking up at the screen (creating a turtle neck),
or left or right at it.
...OSHA's photo of correct body positions when
seated at a computer:
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/computerworkstations/index.html
(for sitting at a sewing machine or work table correctly, see below in Work Tables, etc.)
(My dr.) suggested
moving my computer mouse to the other hand than I normally use.
Nora-Jean
....also the buttons on the mouse can be set to do each other's
jobs. DB
Rearranging the pasta machine so I either crank it with both hands or with the non-usually-used hand. Nora Jean
shoulder pain. . . 'Pasta
Crank Shoulder' is what my Orthopedic/Sport's Injury Doctor teased me with this
last Tuesday ...bursitis is what he told me I have. The bursa are the sacks
around your joints (bunions on the toe are the swelling of the bursa sacks). I
was given a prescription for an anti-inflamatory and anaelgesic for the pain.
.... If the pain is just below your collar bone and travels down
the forearm and ends up at the back of the elbow...then you're my
pain twin and that's what I am experiencing.... But if you've been having pain
in your shoulder for a couple of months I'd plead with you to go see your Doctor
and get referred to a Sport's Injury Orthopedic group if you have one in your
area.
(Glucosamine and Condroitin are for rebuilding the ligaments
and will not prevent repeative stress on the bursa sacks, and will not help tendonitis
because that's an inflamation of the tendons)
We hurt our thumbs by pressing with them repeatedly as when mixing colors by hand ...and also by choking canes.
We hurt our wrists by clutching small items tightly..
(see more on shoulders, necks, etc., below in Work Tables and Surfaces)
One
of the things I now realize (after a number of injuries to various limbs) is that
when I injure something, I have to go through a period of *training* myself
to remember I have it! Otherwise, my habits will take over and I'll use that arm/leg/finger/etc.
before I even realize I'm doing it .. and ouch! So now when I injure myself anew
(sigh), I've learned to wrap the area lightly with a colored ace bandage or put
a brightly colored band-aid on it right in the beginning, to help alert me that
the injury is even there ... only then (gradually) do I begin to realize NOT
to use that part of my anatomy before I actually do (there's definite mental
exercise involved in figuring out different ways to perform every relevant action
too!). After that retraining though, the area can begin to get the needed rest
and heal. (One little problem with this is that by the time I've healed whatever
it is, I've got brand new habits I have to get rid of later
Another
thing you might want to consider is wrapping your wrist lightly while you're
sleeping to avoid twisting, bending, or lying on it. I am currently using
a pharmacy-bought wrist splint on my wrist at night, with the metal reinforcing
bar removed, for just that reason. It's not really tight, just enough to keep
it from bending too much. (Helpful hint: if you try this, get the ExtraLarge size.)
Good luck and take care of yourself! Remember, it's hard for a self-sufficient
person to tolerate feeling like wimp, but the longer you irritate an injury the
longer it takes to get back up to speed. Just keep repeating that to yourself
....When our kids were growing up and we were in the
Philipines it was discovered that the younger daughter had a weak wrist. I
built her a bowling brace. By the time the kids quit bowling some 8
years later I had made over 20 of them for their friends. I was told that they
offered more support then the comercial ones. I was using 1/8' aluminanum sheet
in part of it. The alluminum was stitched between two layers of leather.
I then put medical 'mole skin' on the areas that touched the skin.Once
fitted correctly and put on your wrist did NOT move. but they did not cut off
the circulation either. You could wear it for six games stright without even having
to loosen it. I don't even have one left laying around the house. each kid kept
theirs. Lysle
....If I ever break (or sprain, etc.) a finger again, I think
I'll try making my own splint for it, to prevent movement...when
I broke them before, the dr. had me use some flat aluminum rod (under a layer
of cushiony foam) to hold them in a slightly tilted-up-at-the-end position while
they healed, wrapped on each side of the joint with a strip of fabric tape. She
never bent them correctly/comfortably though!! so I began bending my own. I can
see that making one's own split, exactly fit to the conformation of *one's own*
finger along the whole length, would have been much more comfortable though, not
to say more waterproof, than the ones she made! . . .
.this should also work
for hurt, infected, or painful areas to prevent their being bumped...ouch!
Diane B.
....I recently bruised the tendon in my right thumb
(badly) bending heavy wire with an unsuitable tool.. . . So I made a polymer clay
splint out of scrap clay. Wow! Much better than those popsicle stick ones
we used when I was a kid! Custom color, and fit, too. melanie
....imagine
if you'd lined your splint with a deliciously soft fabric, soaking
the ends in TLS and securing them on the outside, bake, then decorate to
hide the raw seams and bake again. start a whole new fashion trend in hand jewelry!
Sunni
rice
heating bag... take a LONG sock (mens tube sock is the best) fill it
about 1/2 to 3/4 with rice & tie knot or stitch the top & put in microwave
2-3 min... til nice & warm. . . . provides lots of heat & helps w/ joints
or cold toes ... or across the neck/back area. Patsy
... muslin filled
tubes with a cotton slip (or sock, or 'pillow case' of fleece, etc.) work well,
and the outer covering can be washed over and over. Polly
...a cousin
to my fa-vorite bed buddy! I have a U-shaped rice bag thingie I bought years ago
which nestles around my feet when I go to sleep. It's so soothing and comfy
that it can take my mind off other things, as well as just warm up feet
that don't seem to be able to throw off their chill for several hours without
it. (Even when I can't go back to sleep after waking up, I have to trot down the
hall to the microwave and give it a fresh charge! ). My son started using one
as an all-purpose teddy bear years ago after he discovered how calming it could
be when he was really feeling sick. Now I sometimes use his technique when I'm
feeling lousy and just want a little spot of comfort.... 2 minutes in the
microwave, then just snug it my abdomen (usually while sitting), and it
really seems to help. Diane B.
add more filler ingredients
and tips from Word files
I tend to use my cup of coffee as a hand warmer (china cups are designed to tell you when the coffee is too hot to drink--if you can't comfortably hold the cup...) I tend to keep some kind of drink going all day, and I tend to keep coffee on if my hands are especially stiff, just so I can hold it. . . . I also wear those Thermacares a lot, and if wearing a back wrap, can hold my hands on it to warm them up too. . . . And finally, there are those 'hot packs' they sell for hunters, sports addicts, campers, etc. to use as hand/pocket warmers. Laurel
That's my other real helper too --hot-water therapy...ah-h-h. A long tub soak works wonders preferably accompanied by a good mystery, or I'll just stand in the shower till I turn into a prune ... used to do that sometimes for my migraines too if they were awful and let the water just run all down my head. Brief but appreciated respite.
Wish there were a quicker and longer-lasting way of keeping hands warm though. When I want to do some clay stuff but have popscicle-fingers, I just stand at the sink letting almost-hot water run over them for about 30 seconds; they really warm up to the bone that way, and that gets me comfortable enough to get started. Diane B.
My cousin gave my mother one of those home hot wax bath machines and she says it does wonders. She has just about the worst arthritis you can imagine in both hands, severe pain and stiffness that is severely limiting for her in every way. She says the heat from the wax lasts for some time and is very soothing for the pain and stiffness. You can use it on your feet too ! To the best of my knowledge the wax can be reused, and it's not absolutely necessary to buy the expensive scented or herbal waxes. You can use plain parrafin which is a lot cheaper. Ke
TOOLS ... WORK AREAS .... ASSISTIVE DEVICES
Tools
What's
your favorite 'assistive device' that makes your claying life easier? The one
simple tool you couldn't live without?
.... Hands down, mine is the motor
for my pasta machine I broke down and bought last year . . . now I
can't believe I ever lived without it! Laurel
... a feeding tray
for the pasta machine could be good too... it's an upright, metal sheet which
attaches to slots at top back of an Amoco pasta machine (or Atlas
150?) (or other? pasta machines) so that one
won''t have to hold a long sheet or strip of clay with the left hand while
cranking or motoring it through the rollers
http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/equip.html
'Magni-Clips'
which clip onto glasses giving a 1.00-4.00 magnification for working on small
items whether you have a disability or not!. . . doesn't cover whole field
of vision like reading glasses. . . flip-up-able
http://www.mjlampwork.com/magniclips.html
(I put about 1/2 of a small pkg of Fimo in the microwave on the Defrost setting (very low power) for about 30 secs. This warms it up just enough to be slightly pliable.) . . . . Then I use a straight-sided glass bottle with a tight-fitting cap (from ketchup, soy sauce or the like), filled with hot tap water, as a rolling pin. This will quickly make it ready to go through the pasta machine without requiring too much muscle. Suzanne
I
condition my polymer (particulary Fimo) with a heavy wooden mallet.
Hitting it and turning over and over. Has worked like a charm for me for a long
time. You don't have to hit too hard either.
While mechanisation is fine
(food processors etc - if you can afford it) - hard Fimo can be beaten
into submission with an old rolling pin. Chop it into inch size lumps,
stand up so you can have good pressure onto your work table and go for it with
the rolling pin! Sue
Try driving over it (I think I posted this from
my friend - she doesn't want to be identified!). Wrap with plastic, wrap with
newspaper and drive over it! She swears by this method. Donna
(see much
more on help with conditioning clay in Conditioning)
The oven is almost perfect for clay. (It is a Toastmaster Model TTOB4.) The best part, though, is that the toaster oven has a 30 minute timer. I can set it for 20 minutes and a bell rings to tell me it has preheated to the desired temperature. Then, when I bake, I can set it for as long as I need (up to 30 minutes) and it will turn itself off after that time. This is a great help to me, since sometimes my back strength and my baking times don't coincide. I can just leave my items in the oven until I am able to get up to get them. Dottie Hobbs
Brayers for flattening small and large pieces
of clay... depends on what you'd most often be using it for... small things like
pads of clay or squaring up canes, or for larger things like sheets of clay.
..For
small or long things, there is a less expensive small brayer I use sometimes
which is actually a wallpaper seam roller (the one with a plastic roller,
not wood). Sometimes you can run across something similar from kids' toys. Another
bet would be a straight-sided drinking glass or jar. Rather than a brayer, often
an acrylic block or small piece of glass can be used for flattening smaller
things (it will keep the design more even also).
...The very best thing, of
course, and which you'll undoubtedly need if you want to do much one-handed clay,
would be a pasta machine. The cheapest you can usually buy a new one is
around $30, but if you check garage sales and thrift stores, they are sometimes
found pretty cheap ($5 or so)!
....If you want to make larger sheets,
you can use taped-down guide rails and roll over the clay with a roller or brayer
of any type. (see Tools > Brayers and Pasta
Machines for more info)
You can always use an acrylic, glass or marble work surface, as a stabilizer for your clay too, since raw clay will stick to very smooth surfaces pretty well while you cut or manipulate it, if there's enough surface contact anyway .... thinner acrylic or glass can be held in place by placing rubberized drawer liner underneath it)
see the Scumbuster and the Mouse Sander in Sanding > Power Tools, for help with sanding (especially for long sessions of sanding and for for wrist/hand/arm/strength problems) . . . also see 'Other Ways to Sand' (and pre-smooth) on that page
I
can not use sandpaper. It aggravates my arthritis in my hands too much.
I had not heard of the flex tool. I may look at it as it might be helpful for
me if I don't have to hold it too tightly with my fingers. I wouldn't give up
on the Dremel. It just takes time to learn how to use it. As with anything,
even the clay itself, you just have to be cautious. connie
(If you buy) the
flexible shaft, it is so much easier to hold; you don't have to control
so much weight as you do with holding the actual Dremel tool itself. And for the
same reason, it's easier to control than holding the actual tool. If you have
problems with your arms or hands, the flex shaft is wonderful! Barb
...I
have found a couple of things that have made it easier for me (with my joint problems)...I
use a dremel for just about everything.I have a flexi grip. If you don't
have one you might want to try one.Its a long atachment that is snake like. It
s what you hold onto instead of the dremel.It's real easy to maneuver...I just
got a foot speed control. I think it like a sewing machine pedal.It slows
down the wheel to as slow as you want it.Or as fast.I always use the cloth polishing
wheels.I soften them by sniping some of the stiches out around the wheel.Not to
many or it will fall apart. On my good days I sand w/ 600-then-1500 grit always
w/water.Then i go to town w/my dremel.I prob.just told you what ya already know.But
if i can help a fellow sufferer even a little i don't mind looking a little foolish..
Dawnie
(for more on pedals, see Tools
> Foot Pedals)
For buffing, you could get
a drill stand for the Dremel. Then set up the Dremel with
buffing wheel in the stand and treat it like a table buffer. Judi
..(for
Dremel, but would work for a drill?) I clamp it into a vise and
move the clay onto it unstead of it onto the clay. Marty (maybe wrapping
it with rubbery drawer liner for stability?
......I
have a small vise that I lay my dremel in (putting the on/off switch
on top where I can get to it easily). This holds the dremel in place and steady
and I can use it like a foredom buffer or bench grinder depending on what wheel
I have on it. Elise
...Yes, and if you want more power
or to work with a larger wheel... you can clamp a regular drill to
a table & use it like a table buffer as well. It's easier and safer to
have both hands free. . . . (just make sure it's stable.
You can still hurt yourself... always be VERY aware of your movements when working
with power tools...and put them away if you find yourself having a 'clumsy day'or
feeling very tired). Joanie
(see more on using a Dremel for sanding or buffing,
plus interesting techniques and modifications) in Tools
> Dremels)
Pat, I love the idea of clients making their own adaptive tools I think it could be both helpful and empowering. Lori
see Celia's lesson on making your own small sanding tools with handles to help avoid pain in hands, in Sanding > Other Materials & Tools
handles:
I covered my paring knife handles with Premo sometime
ago.... Sure helps when you have arthritis in your hands. Flo
... flexible-clay
handles, made from one of the stretchy clays like Sculpey's Bend
& Flex clay...I found something new to do with the Eraser clay(well
new for me) I have arthritis, so I need to do things to my tools to make
them fit my crooked hands. Pat
mandalamama's handle tools http://www.artwithaheart.com/playwithclay/adaptive.html
bunnyboo covers the
back half of her crochet hooks with clay... creating a wider
area with a depression halfway up the hook, at the top of the clayed area,
for a thumb to rest in
(see more on covering
crochet hooks, etc., with clay in Tools
> Handles)
increasing the size
of a handle could be good for some people, and there are lots of materials
that can be used to cover them, polymer or not
....
what's best would depend on what exactly's needed for a particular person and
task
.... some people might want something cushiony, but some may want
something firmer (like clay)
........there are various kinds
of foamy stuff in various shapes at hardware and craft stores that
might be usable.... I once taped a length of large-diameter black foam tubing
(used for something or other) around my broom handle, e.g.... there's also
'foam rubber' and mattress pad foam.... as well as sheets of
craft foam (Foamies?), etc.
...the
2-part silicone molding materials could be good (and quick to make), but
the material can be somewhat expensive for large handles... perhaps a layer
of silicone could be laid over a basic polymer or other built-up handle?
........there are also other kinds of silicone type stuff that could work,
like caulking? (see Molds
> Silicone for much more on all these).
handles could have finger depressions, or even finger holders, to actually hold-strap fingers in place or give more automatic grip
(for
info on making various handles.. see Tools
> Handles)
finger grips: I also saw
this adapter for pencils or pens that slips over the pen to make
it fatter so I can grip things ....so I tried to make one of these
things with the eraser clay and low and behold...it works.... I made two grippers
out of 1oz. ...it is sort of triangular in shape....After working the clay
I took my lead pencil..put some talc on it made to triangle shapes pushed
them on to the pencil then made a shape with the preassure of my thumb, forefinger
and next finger....baked ...and it fits like a charm...it is soft ..not
squishy..and I did my crossword puzzle with it this AM and boy what a difference...Pat
...This
sounds great . . .I made something similar for my son when he was learning
to write (he kept holding his fingers a really bad way), but of course the
clay I used was hard after baking. Diane B.
...make
pencil grips in special shapes to go around the ends of pen and
allow easier holding and writing/drawing
...for children who
are learning to write, or for older people with arthritis, etc., or for
some disabilities...
...could be make with regular clay,
or softer with Bend & Flex clay, or even with 2-part silicone
molding material (see Molds>Silicone)
http://www.therapybookshop.com/24.html
(various shapes... not nec. clay)
...or could we make something from clay like
these unusual ergonomic-shaped pens... or cover or just embellish them?
http://www.penagain.com
I
use a special tape to cushion the handles
of my crochet hooks
...it's puckery and stretchy and
sticks to itself ... mine is blue
.........my nail technician wraps it
around her finger when she is filing, so look at beauty supply places.
.........the
nail tech tape sounds suspiciously like vet wrap (used on animals to keep
them from licking/chewing off their bandages). Cost about $4 a roll at the feed
store. (It's a bit TOO sticky for my taste so I wrap a second layer
of cloth tape on top so my hands don't end up all blue & gummy.) Lauren...
......that
might be the same stuff that carvers use to protect their fingers
http://www.artwoodcrafter.com/catalog/Item.asp?Item=KN-6215.
.... I'm
thinking it also might be like the fiberglass cast material that
is used for setting broken bones
.....and maybe check quilting shops
too, for those who don't like thimbles but need to protect the finger tips. Helen
P.
.....I'd bet that floral tape might work too even though it's not
the same stuff! Margaret D.
You might need to tape or glue a partial
cover to top and/or sides of some things,
.....and/or add a clay
handle or a bought knob to the clay
... and/or, if the tool
can't be baked, you'll need to form anything polymer first, remove to bake
it, then glue it back in place.
The
weight of hand tools could also be a factor
........ for some people with
tremors, etc., having a bit of extra weight in the right spot can help keep
them steady
........ but for others with strength problems, the lighter
the better.
.... it also might be good for some people to have something which
would hold or strap a tool to the forearm (Velcro?) so different
muscles could be used
....position could help too, physics-wise .....more
force can be exerted more of the body is being used, for example
(using the whole upper body by standing up, or by standing over
the task).
.... angle of arms, etc. could make things easier or harder
(perhaps motions could be done in the lap, or even bending from the waist).
Diane B.
SCULPTING...Especially
for those with tremors, NoraJean advocates filing faces (and other
sculpts) after an initial baking of the rough shape (she
may begin with a mold). . .she feels that one has greater control using a jeweler's
file (rather than sandpaper which removes too
much) and one can go slower, etc., .. and that there's no chance of messing up
the head by mishandling or dinging it (takes about an hour). This also removes
fingerprints and discolored clay.
Nora Jean
also may add clay and reshape it if the nose is too small, etc (with
brushing of TLS first?).... then rebakes
... she files the last time
in small circles ....be sure to remove the dust
before baking
http://www.norajean.com/Sculpt/FileFaces/Ramble.htm
and http://www.norajean.com/Sculpt/FileFaces/001-Group.htm
She
then fills in all the file marks, and coats the whole skin, with skin colored
clay mixed with a drop of TLS
http://www.norajean.com/CowboyKai-3e.htm
... various people have suggested making
a second clay skin to cover the baked face in order to cover discolorations
and fingerprints
....sequential
molds... NoraJean advocates making a number of molds as you get closer
and closer to the face you want to sculpt ...so sculpt-mold-make new head from
that mold. . . sculpt-mold-make new head....etc . . . . then file
...Jay Dearborn
makes customized stands to hold sculpts (whole figures or just heads) while
making (also baking) for artists who are suffering from disabilities
http://www.arcticfantasy.com
(Enter, then click on Sculpting
Stands)
......or see Sculpting-Body
> Tools > Support Stands for these at e-Bay store
for
making a device to make extruding with a clay gun very easy on the
hands and arms, see Clay Guns > Pushers
> Bellow
...My husband Kris already made the
(bellows pusher), and it works like a charm. . . .In fact, I don't have
to use foot or hand pressure (either works fairly easily) if I don't wish;
he just picked up a ten pound hand weight, placed it on the end
of the board, and voila! Nice, steady pressure, no blow out of the
disks, no bending. It's great! Pat O.
Something
that helps a lot with Balinese Filigree is using a lazy susan bearing
with a small ceramic tile or acrylic block, etc., placed on top. These help create
spirals quickly and easily and keep the action close at hand.
http://pcpolyzine.com/december2001/tools.html
(--near the bottom of the page...my photo of the small plastic turntable bearing
I use; it's on the left side of the photo, and has a square acrylic block on top
of it and a couple of small strips of rubberized drawer liner beneath for traction.)
(for more info on this and similar aides, look at ClayGuns
> Balinese Filigree)
....I use my small turntable for all sorts of things...
sculpture, alignment checking,spiral bowls etc, etc - I got the idea from
cake decorator and pottery makers wheels. ...the heart of my turntable is the
low-friction bearing motor from a cannibalised hard drive. I fixed plates
of acrylic (a later version had punched metal plates) to the base and spindle
with epoxy. When you spin the thing - it doesn't seem to want to stop! In these
days of wall to wall computers, there's a very good chance that anyone can get
hold of a broken drive. Alan V.
for paper punches . . . Came across a helpful tool found among the paper punches in local craft stores, called Strong Arm .. . it facilitates repetitive punching of polymer as well as paper --and beats using a hammer or standing on the punch! The manufacturer is McGill, costs around $20, and is featured on their web page: http://www.mcgillinc.com Carol in Meadville
BLADES
& CUTTERS: ...details on all these things
plus more ideas
are on the Cutters-Blades
page
...especially in Long Blades and Short Blades and Kids
& Blades
the top edge of long blades
can have clay (or other materials) added (...often at one or both ends)
...this
gives a better place to grip, as well as helping one remember which
is the sharp side! (the side without the clay)
there are ways
to make blades less-sharp than real blades (dull them
a bit)
...and also ways to make blades and cutters in the first place
which aren't as sharp, for those who need them
........items from around
the house can also be used as less-sharp blades or cutters
Garie Sim
makes a tool from an aluminum sheet? (like a small dough scraper)
which could also function like a long blade ...he curls one end of the aluminum
over to act as a handle (especially good for very young or disabled children)
(the
first, and perhaps the second, could also be used to cut cane slices as
long as the canes aren't too old and hard or too soft)
....he also makes various
other cutting tools with handles
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/shop/handmade_recycle2.htm
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/shop/handmade_recycle.htm
some
'stand' cutters (or similar things that can be made yourself) can
be helpful in various ways for those with tremors, weak grip, blindness, etc.,
and various (sharp or not-so-sharp) blades could be used in them or with some
kind of upright guide poles
... could be used to help cut thick slabs
for feeding into the pasta machine, or to make any kinds of cuts
(see Cutters-Blades
> Stand Cutters for more details)
Y-peelers... There is a kitchen tool I've acquired
that's been extremely helpful to my somewhat-weak-finger-grip hands. This
sucker makes peeling potatoes and even other fruits/veggies so-o
much easier for me. . . trying to hold onto potatoes/yams/etc. while peeling was
becoming a significant problem. ...the 'micro-finely serrated' Y-peeler.
... http://www.internationalfse.com/kitchen_gadgets.html
(look at number 5602)
...just love it. It's got a big, soft, grip and cuts/peels
almost like butter. (BTW, for anyone who doesn't know, Y-peelers are the type
most used in Europe I think, and are pulled toward the body rather
than pushed out away from it like the straight peelers.) Maybe I can even think
of a way to use it with clay . . . LOL . . .hmmmmm
a
Dove Cutter (a Y-shaped holder which grabs and holds long blades taut)
would help with cutting slabs from bricks, chopping off hunks clay, and
making lengthwise cuts in logs)... easier on fingers and hands, and could
be used one-handed (....be aware that the blade is even
sharper than a regular long blade though
because it's held taut....also the blade tips stick out
on at least the older model and poses a risk too (http://www.doveceramics.com
)
NOT NECESSARILY FOR POLYMER:
http://directory.google.com/Top/Shopping/Health/Disabilities/Assistive_Technology
(Yahoo's links for assistive devices)
...subcategories: Building Modifications
(60) Communication Aids (33) Computer Access (84) Daily Living (184)
Education and Learning (21) Electric Scooters (68) Environmental Controls (10)
Ergonomic Equipment (3) Fitness Aids (4) Hearing (98) Low Vision Aids (58)
Mobility and Transportation (256) Prosthetics and Orthotics (106) Recreation (21)
Seating and Positioning (17)
http://www.unlimitedsolutions.ca/productpages/Homemaking_1.html
(various kitchen helpers)
The
items which have helped me most are things like knee trays (sometimes I'm
unable to sit at a desk/table for any length of time)
.... A rotating work
board can be a great help to someone who is manually- impaired but it obviously
shouldn't be too freely moving like a decorating turntable for cakes - just enough,
for bringing items into hand range. Alan V.
How do you folks get a work
surface that is high enough without having to have your back bent way over
to work? I hope this make sense. ....I use a roll-around office chair. ...Brenda
Lea
...If it's a roll around office chair similar to mine, it's adjustable
as to height. If you LOWER it, you can roll right up under the table so
your face is practically on it. Barbe
This bent-over problem is something I
struggle with too because any kind of hunched-over tensing of my chest
muscles seems to trigger fibromyalgia chest pain (this first appeared suddenly,
years ago, when I spent several hours doing one of my first applique projects
--a flower wreath with a hummingbird, appliqued onto the front of a sweatshirt,
for my mother-in-law . . . it was a very time-consuming xmas gift and I was trying
to get it finished while DH and DS were away for the afternoon). (I had also noticed
a deadening of my outer hand(s?) when I'd been learning to do quilting stitches
the year before ...which I finally had to give up.)
Anyway!. . . many things
involving polymer tend to put me in this physical position unfortunately :-( .
My doc suggested forgetting about polymer, but that wasn't acceptable, so then
she told me to at least raise my working surface so that I could keep my back
really straight while working on those close small items and avoid the 'tensed
hunch.'
Well, I tried lots of configurations (and I'm still experimenting)
but one thing that did help was to raise my work off the table itself.
I have a number of small items like jars, coasters/trivets/tiles/, etc.,
that I can stack on top of each other to get a height which allows my back
to be as straight as possible for whatever I'm working on (and close to eye
level whenever possible). I may also vary my height slightly while
working on an piece simply to avoid using the same muscles continuously, or I
might change the height of my office chair a bit. Depending on the size of the
piece I'm working on (seldom are they very large), I usually try to find some
stackable items that are round or square and not over 6' wide to use, so
that I don't take up too much of that precious real estate in the middle of my
work surface . . . also so I don't inadvertently knock the stack down as I reach
past to retrieve a new tool/powder, etc.. I also try to remember the golden rule
for me . . . keep moving, keep looking up and around, walk around
or move whatever muscles I've been using in some *different* way.
Really hard to do sometimes, but better than paying for it later.
. . . .
Another thing I've actually considered is some sort of support like a massage
table or weight-training bench which I can lie face-down on, at an
angle diagonal to the work surface. I could then hang my arms freely, sort of
under me, and work with a really straight neck and back! . . . especially for
things that take a lot of small manipulations. I haven't done that yet, but it's
in the back of my mind for if-I-really-need-it eventually. Diane B.
...I
am only 5 feet tall, but I was having a lot of trouble through my shoulders and
neck from hunching over my work all day. My solution should help you, too.
I use a drafting table. It is fully adjustable as to height and angle.
author?
...One of the things that really helps w/ my neck
is my counter-height work area and tall stool.
I tend to get up and down more often (and w/ less effort), and that leads to not
hunching over to work, straining my neck. When I
sit and work at a table, I tend to sit, hunch, stretch in a bad way, etc.... I
can sit on my stool and roll sheets to my heart's content without straining my
back or neck. The counter-height stool and bar-height work table make going from
sitting to standing MUCH easier, and I can clay for longer without needing a hot
bath.
I also have a fabric (or sock) tube filled w/ raw rice that I
heat in the microwave and use to help alleviate neck strain. Laurel (see
below under 'Heat Therapies')
...raise the table. Use some 8x8
blocks to put under the table legs to whatever elevation you'd like. Barbe
...We raised our tables w/ both bricks & 4x4 boards at a center I used
to work in.
...We found it best to attach the original table legs
to the new 'risers' (rather than just setting the legs on the risers), so
that you would not 'push' the table off it's risers if you pushed against the
table. Laurel
I really do like my work area set-up.
. .
...I have a high table 'breakfast bar' that is bar height and
a high stool.... I can work for a LOT longer since I elevated my work
area.
..........a lazy susan on top of a small set of Sterlite
drawer units can help elevate a work area as well.
...My work area has
storage cabinets underneath.
...On either side of the bar, I have those
plastic wheelie carts w/ drawers (or anything one could add wheels
to. DB) --it's great to be able to move a cart beside me when I need to, rather
than having to get up and go over to it.
...Above the work area, I have those
tri-level hanging baskets they sell for storing tomatoes and onions.
Laurel
For seating, I have a tall, swivel stool with
a back....this makes going from sitting to standing easier on the
back & legs.
There is a reason why drafting
tables are high--folks who push papers or keys all day seem
to be the only ones that work at low-height surfaces. Think about it--most
'active' type jobs utilize higher work surfaces!
(......However...
having worked at a drafting table as a environmentalist at an engineering firm,
I can tell you that isn't so comfy. ... My stools do double-duty in the kitchen,
as I use them while I'm cooking. I find you have to invest the $ to get a GOOD
stool. A back is imperative, and the swiveling also helps a lot.
(.....However...we
had top of the line padded stools with backs but it was murder on my back all
the same. For anyone with back problems or arthritis that sitting exacerbates,
I think it would not be an ideal seating. Barbe)
...I have a plexi-glass
sheet laid across the front half of the counter surface.
...Behind that,
I have stacks of cardboard soda cases, separated w/ sheets of heavy
cardboard, which holds stuff in process, canes, etc.
... I have my pasta
machine on the right.
....I have various tiles that fit nicely
in the space between the pasta machine area & the plexi-glass.
....My
tools, etc. stand at the back of the counter, along the wall.
...It took
me a LONG TIME to perfect my little work area, but it is very efficient. Laurel
Nevans
small portable 'table' or easel made from a
tripod and sheet of plywood,etc. (size desired), held together with
a steel 'mounting plate' (one 5/16' hole in ctr, 4 outer
holes, 4 screws) (...this item would normally be attached to underside of a table
so one could screw in a wood table leg), and a nut to fit tripod's bolt
(which would normally screw into camera's bottom)
lesson on making one,
by Marty W: http://www.pcpolyzine.com/2004november/tripodeasel.html
...I've
also used an old slide projector platform (also has a tripod bottom)
I
made a portable work surface from a large, thick butcher block
cutting board... can put this on my lap or move it to any horizontal surface
.....my
pasta machine is clamped onto it...I've also drawn a ruler on the
side with a marker... my clay is in a Sterlite container. Carrie
http://www.whimsyminis.com
I also find myself going from sitting to standing a lot. Laurel
sewing or worktable work ... do's & don'ts
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/sewing/index.html
(for sitting at a computer, see above under Other Hand-Arm Problems)
When
working with clay in bed, the first thing to do is cover all around
with a sheet (not only to keep the raw clay off the bed but to keep all the blanket
lint off the clay...learned that one the hard way).
...I normally work
on a large smooth tile which I put up on my knees. (I must lay almost
down in bed)...
.. I use a large tray beside me for my clay and
tools.
...it does take longer to do anything in bed, and only small
projects that aren't complicated, but at least it is working with clay
...make
sure you have all you need together so you don't have to get up and down.
Poly
Could put a pasta machine on a stool beside the bed (or even on the bed ) as long as it has a motor attached so no cranking is necessary
We stack two dog crates between our beds ...
which block the light on my side of the room so I don't disturb
my husband's sleep if I wake up at 3 am unable to go back to
sleep, then sit up and do some work. . .
...He also set up a small
desk for my clay next to the bed so in the morning if I wake
up early, I can just sit up and work on something I might have been thinking about
doing....
...He brought home an old drafting board clamp-on light for
my clay desk..It is great. It has a circle fluorescent light with a blue
light in the center. You can angle the lamp so it faces downward
towards the work area and the light doesn't go far from that. Great solutions
for us! Barbe
Sue Salvatore's article on ergomonics &
safety
(adaptive studio layouts, ergonomics, space organization)
http://pcpolyzine.com/march2001/art.html
Have you tried using an 'egg crate' foam mattress on top of your standard mattress? I never realized how much the egg crate helps, until I stayed at my parents' house w/o one. The next day, we went to the Health Care Equipment store and bought one. Now, I can sleep better when I visit the folks too. Laurel
floor
easel..... custom-molded reclining wheelchair with headrest, coupled with
an adjustable lap tray.
. ...from a prone position, maybe a motorized,
remote control floor desk?
...A good orthopedist can write a prescription
and refer to a good shop.
.... a Rehabilitation Engineering team
can come out and assess situations then build equipment to allow best function
(a local university or vocational rehab agency can help find Rehabilitation
Engineering teams in any area).
.... also contact Job Accommodation Network
http://janweb.icdi.wvu.edu/ to find
professionals in the area who can meet with the person to assess the particular
situation, and hopefully, help get the equipment needed (even for those employed
at home).....also a font of info about how to modify a work station.. Laurel
floor
and lap stands, ergonomic desks units, book holders on flexible
arms, etc.
http://www.sitincomfort.com/homofdesandw.html
.....simpler ones http://www.sitincomfort.com/readwritcomt.html
http://needlepoint.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.artisandesign.com
(various floor and lap stands ...for needlework, but good ideas?)
http://www.backbenimble.com/new/pages/baltinc/laptops.htm
interesting
chairs, stools, foot rests, cushions, etc.
http://www.sitincomfort.com/alseat.html
(look in many of the categories in the left hand navigation bar)
http://www.relaxtheback.com
I am a clayer
and an occupational therapist. I have used polymer clay as a therapy medium
for folks with decreased fine motor coordination and decreased pinch
and grasp:
--Working the clay to get it ready to use
is good for strengthening the grasp and pinch. Becky
.....Do you think the
process of conditioning the clay helps increase the strength of your hands and
fingers, Annie? I think your idea of carrying around a lump of clay and
kneading while you do chores, is a great hand therapy intervention.
....I think a pinch pot projects would be fun and therapeutic as
well. Lori
.......I know the conditioning of clay has helped my hands.
There was a time when my fingers just wouldn't cooperate with me and that
is so frustrating. ...My hands are much better now, I have days when it's difficult
but for the most part they are stronger Pat
--You can make the tools for
working clay with larger handles for easier grip, and add a texture
for a surer grip. Toothpicks, pins, nails, small metal files, etc.
can all be made into tools that allow you to better grip your tool and to cheaply
make yourself lots of helpers. If you have done any wood sculpting, you can use
some of your wood tools for polymer clay.
--Also look at all those wood scraps
that could be sanded to make stands or plaques to put your creations
on as well as using your wood stains on the wood or polymer clay.
--You
can also use cookie cutters and cookie stamps.
--You didn't
say how long since your stroke, but probably at least a year since you say you're
on disability. Keep working on your coordination, and your ability
to use your hands and arms at every opportunity, because you can continue to get
better even after the optimal window of the first six months or year.
.....If
I can help you in any way with some problem solving with adaptations, please contact
me through Polyzine.
http://www.pcpolyzine.com
...Beckie
I was an art therapy assistant when I was 15, and that's
when I started learning how to adapt any art project so that any
individual would be able to complete at least a piece of it.
. . .The
great thing about clay is that SO MANY common items can be used/adapted
as clay tools, and such beautiful objects can be created using such simple
techniques. The key is finding the right project to do w/ physically and/or
mentally disabled folks.
--The idea is to examine the functional limitations
and how they impact on the project at hand.
--Then, figure out with
which steps of the project the individual is likely to have difficulty.
--Once these steps have been identified, the next thing is to figure out if
some sort of assistive device would help mitigate the impact of the disability,
or if it is possible to modify the step so it can be done with or without an assistive
device. . .
...if it can't be done with an assistive device, what type of
physical assistance would be required so the step can be done
...if
the step must be completed for the individual. If so, we try to ensure
it is a minor step, so the project still is 'theirs'. (For example,
a person may be able to string beads, but not apply a clasp to the ends or to
tie a knot. In this case, the instructor would 'finish' the necklace, but the
necklace would still have been 'created' by the individual, as clasping is a minor
step.) . . Laurel.
I rigged up an artichoke heart jar w/ one of those useless small brushes that come in blush. I used e-6000 to glue the brush to the lid of the jar. Now, not only do I have a jar that will keep the brush suspended in the Future (or other sealer) , meaning I don't have to clean the brush in between glazing sessions, but I have a brush that is much easier on the hands to use. I can grasp the whole lid, making for less pain in my hands. Laurel
tremors . . . . I saw a book lately which suggested buying
weighted silverware to folks with Parkinsons. The extra weight was supposed
to moderate the tremoring a bit, I guess. So you might want to experiment with
making permanent or temporary weighted handles for some of your tools
(like a needle tool, e.g.) just to see if that helps.
The other thing I do
to steady myself when I'm taking photos or sometimes when making some tiny
motion when claying is to press my arm or body against something (in the
case of claying, it's usuallly the table or my other hand/arm ...for
photography it's the nearst post or wall, or just breathing all the way *out*
and then locking my arms to my torso as best I can).
... Have you
tried listening to music when you're working and tremoring? It's a far
out idea, I know, but I found that music I liked and could really get into, to
be a great ally when I had the most pain and tried to walk for exercise. With
my headphones on, the music was really a full sensory experience and I
found that it kind of took over some of my brain and overrode many of the signals
I was getting..maybe your brain would kind of go with the flow of the rhythm and
you could sort of time your movements? Sounds really weird, I know, but
I'm willing to get it wherever I can when trying to compensate <g>. Diane
B.
....I'm wondering if clamp-on arm rests might help. They're designed
to clamp on to a computer desk to provide arm support for carpal tunnel syndrome...
Laurel
...essestial tremor ... In spite of it, I have been able to do quite
a few delicate artistic projects. The most important thing I have found is not
to try too hard. Extreme muscle tension makes
it worse. Relax and be patient. It sometimes takes several false starts
before I finally make a motion. I have found that the extreme muscle weakness
I have now with my fibromyalgia has made it more difficult. The suggestion of
steadying your arm on something is also helpful. Hang in there! Marilyn
...I
did try bracing my arm on a rolled towel,and it does help steady
me a lot. Peggy
...tension does make essential tremors worse. Ironically a
little discussed fact is that a popular home remedy for tension works ---alcohol.
Do not overdo!!! ...An occasional,
single, SMALL glass of wine might be beneficial. docluci
--We
always paired folks with different limitations, so that between
the 2 (or 3 or 4) of them, they could complete the project.
--For folks ...with
limited hand function, we often used velcro or home made splints
to 'attach' tools to a wrist, and we made great use of things like mouth sticks.
--I give someone with (Cerebral Palsy)-curled hands a pencil wrapped
with rubber bands to use as a simple assistive device.
-- Pre-made
canes (can be bought or made)...
--One does not necessarily NEED to be
able to roll flat sheets to make clay projects. Beads are actually a great
project for groups with physical limitations. You can use Sculpey (or FimoSoft
which is now also very soft plus it's stronger after baking), which works
great for folks with limited hand strength, and most folks can roll shapes, or
string beads rolled by others (although it helps to keep the beads large-holed
and use something like 2 mm leather for stringing). Laurel Nevans
....Yesterday
I found out about a group of mentally challenged adults that has a creativity
meeting every Wednesday. They're always looking for supplies to make things with.
So, my formerly unloved beads are going there. Kim K.
(see more on ideas for doing shows & making displays, etc, in Shows)
.
. . I had started out the season with one of my closest friend's pledge
to be there every Saturday to help me pack/unpack the car, set up and break
down. Well, that lasted exactly 2 Saturdays.. . .
at the beginning, I never thought it was something I was going to be able
to do by myself. I am sharing this anecdote for all the other folks on
this list who are experiencing the same self-doubt.
.....Now, I do have
(doing a show by myself) down to a science. I can even handle setting
up/taking down my tent by myself.
. . . Granted, I 'rest up' for
two days before, spend Saturday night in the bathtub, and Sunday on the
couch watching videos...but I've now made it through a Summer of Saturdays
doing it on my own...and better than some of those who have 'partners'. I've learned
a lot in getting it down to a science, though:
CONTAINERS,
SWITCHPLATES, SHELVES
---Those small stackable storage containers
are fantastic, and now I try to go to Target and pick up a few 6-quart
ones whenever they run a sale. You can carry a few stacked when they're
full of lightweight stuff, but one at a time if they're heavy. . . . At
the show, you can use them as 'risers' on your display. . . .Those large,
plastic containers that everyone else has can get heavy awfully
quickly. I use my big containers only to hold display items such
as easels, table covers, and baskets (which aren't as heavy, just large and bulky).
---I once made the mistake of packing my switchplates in a large container,
and then couldn't get it from the house to the car! (more than a dozen switchplates
at a time gets really heavy. I save my old Omaha steaks cardboard boxes
for them, w/ layers of tissue between the layers of plates. About as many plates
as one box will hold is about as heavy as I want to get.
---Bricks wrapped
in foil make great weights, and one at a time are not too hard to lift.
Using weights on lightweight display shelves can be less taxing
than trying to use heavy display shelves.
PACKING
---Whenever possible, pack the car the night before, and do not
unpack until the next day.
---Clear a corner of the garage
not too far from the car, and store your inventory there in between closely
scheduled shows.
......If the car must be packed in a certain way (with
boxes, etc.), keep those items that must go in first in a separate
corner from those that need to go in later. It makes it easier to unpack the
car. (For example, my tables must go in 1st, then my tent, then the box of shelves,
then the inventory boxes. Coming home, the inventory comes out 1st. Therefore,
I keep my boxes of inventory in one corner, and the tables in another, so I can
pack/unpack the car easier.)
---Designate 1 box your 'admin' box,
so it's easier to find sales receipts, etc. after the show. My price labels,
business cards, receipt books, tax licenses, bug spray, scissors, tape, cards,
shower curtain hooks, sharpie, ball point, blue tack and tools all go in my
'admin box'. It's only one thing to grab then, and easy to find.)
---Pack
inventory according to how it will be displayed. I put the things
that go on the 'left shelves, left side' in similar boxes,
'right shelves left side' in similar boxes, etc. Makes for less hauling stuff
around. Laurel
The way I have of getting around the craft show challenges
is to have a holiday open house at my home instead.
Relatives are often with me to help out.. . . I don't do just polymer clay though
(homemade soaps and herbal products, jewelry, candles, etc... also my sister has
some hand painted vases and butterflies so it's like a mini craft show). . . .
I save on craft show fees, and my main expense is printing up flyers
to put around town and mail to past customers. ...one option would be to group
with a couple friends to add to the variety if you just do clay (and more important
to share the work load). Jan
voice
recognition software is very helpful for using a computer
with vision disabilities
...these programs (like Via Voice) will create
text from your spoken speech, and well as perform other 'commands'
like opening programs, etc.
http://www.utoronto.ca/atrc/reference/tech/voicerecog.html
....this
type of software can allow the person to use a computer for everyday living
things, to get stimulation from browsing the web and learning new
things, and especially to have social interactions
....there are
many online groups (message boards-forums, mailing lists, etc.) for just
about any topic imaginable;.for example:
......any hobby
or art-craft (including polymer clay)
..... any interest (politics,
health, kids, philosophy, religion, recycling, professions, etc., etc.)
Low Vision especially
links to crafts
for those with low-vision
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=%22legally+blind%22+crafts
(low vision)
http://tinyurl.com/8vykn
see above in Assistive Tools for 'magni-clips' which clip onto glasses giving a 1.00-4.00 magnification for working on small items . . . doesn't cover whole field of vision like reading glasses. . . flip-up-able
If
you have trouble reading the temp on the oven thermometer, you could
use a large, *glass* magnifying glass; it
could be set into a little stand of polymer clay for holding in front of the thermometer--the
farther apart they are, the greater the magnification.
...Using just one
lens from strong (3.0 or higher) drug store reading glasses
also works.
...You might also want to add a polymer clay marker to
the thermometer next to the exactly correct baking temp. so that you wouldn't
actually have to read the numbers (to avoid using glue which might degrade in
the oven, it could probably be attached over the edge of the face). Diane
B
(probe thermometers,
for knowing when item is fully cured)
.... I just bought a new oven thermometer.
It's digital, with a probe that goes in the oven and the readout
part that you keep outside. It's really meant for roasts & turkeys,... the
thermometer has an alarm that goes off when it reaches a set temp (ie:
275 degrees), and, voila, no more burning!! It also had a timer on
it. I love it. It was expensive ($24), but if it means I won't burn stuff, its
well worth it. I wrapped the probe in tin foil and then a layer
of clay. When it reaches 275, I know my actual pieces have cooked
all the way through. Claire
....probe thermometer, Radio Shack, $19.95
…. has a stand and a magnet so you can see the temperature and time
display where ever it is convenient. Patty
...(probes, for preheating)
I found out how long it was taking my oven to reach the required temperature (30
minutes) and the degree of fluctuation during the heating cycles. +/- 10
degrees. Patty
...
probes are costly, and I find
not reliable.
The probe needs to sit INSIDE the item while baking.
Does not do a good job on the ambient
air temp. . Valerie
There are actually a quite a number of things that the blind can do with polymer clay because so much involves touching and manipulating, and can involve texture, etc.... see the many ideas below.
also see more on
this topic at Sculpey's page on 'special needs' children (sensory disabilities)
http://www.sculpey.com/specialneeds.htm
also see more below also in other categories like Seniors, Stroke & other impairments, etc.
links to crafts and
activities for the blind
http://www.ode.state.or.us/osb/departments/crafts-and-other-activities-for-the-visually-impaired.pdf
American
Foundation for the Blind
...message boards (Arts & Leisure ...Seniors,
etc), and other info:
http://www.afb.org/seniorsite.asp?SectionID=67&TopicID=309
... http://www.afb.org/message_board_folders2.asp
...senior
site http://www.afb.org/seniorsitehome.asp
more
http://tinyurl.com/b79yn
clay brands
SculpeyIII and FimoSoft are the the softest
clay brands and may not be best for the blind to work with because
the heat from one's hands while working with the clay can make those
even softer and goopier (however, they can be set aside periodically or refrigerated,
etc, to cool; for other ways to avoid the problem see Characteristics
> Sculpey III).... they also don't tend to hold detail
as well (if detail is what you want)
...Sculpey III
is the softest polymer clay on the market and therefore needs little or no conditioning...
but it's also the weak clay because it will be very
brittle after baking --especially in any thin or extending areas--and can break
or chip with stress.
...FimoSoft may have
several problems... first, its formula may be changing soon in the U.S. to something
similar to Sculpey III (this has already happened in the U.K.)....also
I find the different colors of FimoSoft to be more inconsistent
in firmness than
any of the other clay brands (which can be a problem for some techniques)....some
of their colors seem to rub
off onto one's hands more easily than most of the other brands' colors.
....Premo,
which is normally a favorite clay, may not be the best for blind persons either
because it's more heat-responsive than the other
brands; therefore it's best not to 'overwork' it which could be a problem if touching
the clay more than a sighted person
... FimoClassic
... the only real disadvantage to it is that it's the stiffest and
most difficult to condition clay brand (although that's improved some since the
Eberhard Faber people found themselves losing market to softer clays). FimoClassic
has a wonderful 'feel,' and holds crisp detail ...caners love it.
...As for
Kato Polyclay, it's still very good and its color trueness holds
in baking better than any other brands, but you should also know that it leaves
a slightly shiny finish (as opposed to matte), and it comes only in 8 'spectral'
colors (colors of the rainbow) plus metallics and translucent, so you'd perhaps
be mixing colors more than with other brands --or maybe that would be an advantage?...
it also has a slight vinyl odor (strongest out of the package, and that might
be a problem or an advantage).
...to read much more about all the characteristics
of all clay brands and types, see Characteristics
(translucent clays, mica clays, and liquid clays have their own separate pages
though)
SORTING
& IDENTIFICATION:
There should be lots of ways to keep clay colors
(or canes, cane components, etc.) sorted for identification just by feel
...'markers' for various colors could be stuck into raw
clay fairly easily, and that could be one way to go... these could be the same
marker for each color for all sorting needs, or different for various occasions
.....be
careful to make markers only from materials which are non-reactive
with raw clay and non-porous if they will be in direct
contact with clay for longer than a few minutes .....e.g.,.metal, glass, ceramic,
even some plastics (see Covering
> Plastics and Storage for more on which
plastics are non-reactive)
...........some porous materials may be okay
if they're first sealed with non-reactive finishes or paints, or if they're
physically separated from the areas which will be in contact with raw clay
...whole blocks or blobs of clay could have more or less permanent
'markers,' but short-term sorting could use something quicker
...for
permanent markers in particular, one could perhaps use a metal bottle cap
with a color indicator glued onto its top surface ...that way anything could be
used for the actual identification (e.g., baked clay with impressed dots
or patterns, baked clay shapes, braille tape?, etc.)
...ideas
for color identification could also come from indicators like: a certain number
or pattern of long or applique sewing pins, metal brads or charms,
buttons, wire shapes . . .
....a piece of wire could
be bent into various shapes at the projecting end to indicate a color,
or the wire could have a marker of some kind attached to it
........the long
sewing pins with flat plastic 'flowers' at the end could have a marker glued to
them too
....impressed textures could discriminate between colors too,
either for attached markers or impressed onto the clay itself ...
for example the difference between the impression of sandpaper vs. a row of lines
vs. a thickly-nubbled texture, etc., should feel obvvious (see Textures
page for texture sheets & more)... or textures made by stamps or stamping
'tools' could be used to (screwdriver tip, nailhead, needle tool, or about
anything).
.....clay ropes or dots or other onlays can
be used as identifying bits which would protrude rather than be
impressed... those could be baked too
.....any of these things could correspond
to braille symbols, or be custom
...for putting markers in canes, it might be best to use something very thin (like the thinnest sewing pins) so as not to disturb the pattern inside, or use something which doesn't penetrate the cane at all like a plastic baggie rolled around it with the color or type indicator inside the plastic
Colors could also be sorted by container into various
boxes, plates or trays, tube troughs, etc., as long as
they non-reactive with raw clay
....containers could be recognizable by their
shape or position, or they could have small markers attached
to them temporarily or permanently.
....location ...components or colors
could be sorted by their position or orientation on the work surface, etc.
MIXING
NEW COLORS:
.....there are lots of 'recipes' for mixing clay colors,
etc., on the Color page
.....there is
also another page which covers making gradient sheets of clay (graduating
smoothly from one color to the next), the most famous of which is the 'Skinnner
Blend.' These blends give a lot more depth and interest to anything they're
used for, even when using only a few simple colors
.......these sheets can
then be turned into gradient 'plugs' (accordion-folded loafs) and bullseye
canes for use in even more situations.
Here are some ideas
and techniques that might be easiest and most interesting for the blind.
(...for
much more on each one, see it's corresponding page here at GlassAttic):
...sculpting
of all kinds
...my sister once had to sculpt her own head in a high school
art class while blindfolded by feeling her face and then touching the clay, over
and over ... it was amazing how good her head looked!.... although she sculpted
her (earth clay) head in one color and it was colored with a glaze while in the
kiln, I believe it was also 'antiqued' as well to bring out the detail --which
could be a good idea with polymer clay sculpts of one color as well
...by
the way, 'sculpting' with polymer clay can be simple or complex...large
or small...representational or abstract, etc.
...see
info on sculpting dog and cat heads (including feeling their head
structures) in Sculpting-gen > Other Items
> 'Animals'
(...see also Sculpting--Tools
& Bodies, Heads & Masks,
Miniatures, Armatures)
...bas
relief 'paintings' might be a really usable technique
.... one way
to do these is to create a scene or image, etc., on a flat board or other
surface, with shaped and/or textured bits of clay
....
large or small areas can be heated briefly with low-temp heat gun
(like an embossing gun) to 'set' them so they can't be damaged when
working on other parts (see Tools > Heat Guns)
....these
could be designs created by the clayer, or designs taken from graphics, coloring
books, photos, etc.
(...see loads of details on these in Paints
> 'Polymer Pastes & other 'paintings'' ...also in Sculpture
> Bas Relief ... also in Kids > Sculpting
> Relief Sculpting)
...flat or fairly flat clay shapes can also be
puzzle-pieced together in sheets, with the result being abstract or
not ....a bit like 'pieced' quilts
.....the component clay pieces for
these could be textured or smooth...or have other surface treatments
like crackled leaf or metallic powders....and/or be combined with balls, ropes
and other shapes of clay
....pieces could also be entirely different
from each other, or similar in color or texture to tie them together in
certain areas
(....see Sheets of Pattern
> Crazy Patch)
...other interesting sheets of clay can be made
in various ways (even a simple marbling of colors gives added interest)
.....any
sheets created can be used for cutouts as below, for covering things,
or for making 'draped' bowls (see Vessels page),
and in many more ways
...using cutters (cookie, canape, etc.,
or make your own cutters) to cut shapes from sheets of clay
......then
embellish if wanted (the results could be ornaments, or used for
jewelry or plaques, or be glued to greeting cards, or used
for onlay or just about anything)
...stamping & texturing
....(see below in 'Suggestions for Polymer Activities'
to read more about these 2 techniques)
.....there
are many actual 'stamps' you can buy (or make yourself, or have
made...see Stamping), as well as many
items from around the house which be used to make excellent stamped designs
....(after
texturing) one of two steps can be added to bring out the detail, add complexity
or richness, etc., both of which give a lot of bang for the buck and aren't
hard to do:
1. ....use a bit of mica powder (like Pearl Ex) to 'highlight'
just the upper surfaces of the texture ...(tamp a little powder
on your middle finger, tap off the excess, then rub lightly in circles around
the top part of the impressed surface --once you get the feel for doing it, rub
the powder into the surface clay fairly well and you won't need to seal it
2
...or 'antique' just the lower areas of your textured
surface... this can be done with various media after baking (paints, metallic
or other powders, even metallic leafing, etc).... as well as a few ways involving
steps both before and after baking
.......one of the most frequent ways to
antique is to rub a dark brown acrylic tube paint (often Burnt Umber) all
over the textured and baked piece, working it down into all the crevices (with
a toothbrush if necessary)...let it set up for a minute or two... then wipe the
paint from the surface with a flat (possibly damp) paper towel leaving color only
in the depressions... can be buffed later, or sanded and buffed
3. impressed
textures can also be completely covered with powders, paints, leaf, etc.
....for
Christmas for example, you could cut these treated sheets into squares or any
shape, poke a hole near the top with a coffee or other straw, bake, and
make a zillion ornaments for a big or small tree ... or use them as gift
bookmarks, on cards, etc.
...onlays of all kinds, and
even Balinese Filigree (a spiraling of thin clay ropes into patterns)
......
onlays can be cut with small cutters or freehand, and applied to rounded surfaces
like beads or flat surfaces
...lettering can be created for
worry stones or name plaques, etc., by stamping or by onlaying
ropes of clay, etc.
(see Letters,Inks
> Lettering)
...some fauxs could be fun to make too
... for
example, faux turquoise is often made with tiny chunks of clay which are
pressed together and later antiqued with brown paint
....faux metal
is often a matter of using metallic powders and paints... leather can also
be simulated
....some rock or gemstones might be fun too because
they often are created by recipe or texturing, etc
........like jade, amber,
coral, etc.... lava, granite, sandstone, etc.
....these faux materials
can also be used for 'sculpting' objects as well
...mosaics (geometric,
pictorial or abstract)
......can be created
with clay tiles made from thin sheets of baked clay which are laid into
a sheet of raw clay, or the tiles can simply be stuck onto any
surface with suitable glue (box, table, plate, etc.)
......tiles
can be cut or scored in a clay sheet before baking (&
snapped apart afterward), or cut with scissors or punches while
still warm
......the colors of the clay tiles could be
identified by texturing the back side of each color differently before
baking, or in some other way
......some kind of temporary or permanent cording,
ridges, etc., could be placed on the surface to guide the placement
of tiles in shapes or areas
......clay mosaics can be grouted or
not... ordinary grouts can be used, or grouts can be made from diluted clay, etc.
(...see Mosaics & Inlay for much more)
...covering all kinds of items
with slices, bits or sheets of clay
.....for example,
votive candle holders, pencil cups, bowls, boxes, bottles, pens, etc.
...beads
& bead shapes of all kinds!
(re shapes, there are so many which
can be created with human hands only, and it's a fascinating process to experiment
with making as many as possible...looking at ancient jewelry, etc., illustrates
the breadth of possibilities)
....molds ....(see
below in 'Suggestions for Polymer Activities' to read about making and using molds)
...molds
can be made from polymer clay or two-part silicone putties
quite easily... then after baking, used to shape more polymer clay
.......many
purchased molds with work with clay also
...these molds could extend
the range of objects that the blind person could represent (just like we sighted
clayers use them)...raw molded shapes can also serve as a starting point for further
manipulation or reshaping
(molded items can also be antiqued, highlighted
or completely covered just as above with textured items)
...wire
...can be used with polymer clay in various ways (for connectors or decorative
elements, coils, etc.) and many shapes can be created by feel alone
(see Wire
....and Jewelry > 'Connectors'
especially)
...many vessels (boxes,
bowls, containers)
......e.g., bowls made on removable armatures (like
the back of a glass custard dish), then popped off after baking
......draped
bowls can be made by draping a sheet of clay over a form of some kind (e.g.,
an upturned custard dish)...edges can be fluted, etc.
(see Vessels
and maybe Vessels-Rock)
Think
about things you'd like to make for yourself to make your
life easier as well...
....or perhaps make games, etc., in a
style which allow s you to play with your kids/grandkids or others...or modify
an old game in some way
There are various techniques used with polymer clay
that involve sanding:
...sanding off
...... the upper surface
of a baked piece can be sanded to remove a bit of clay, paint or leafing,
etc. that has previously been applied to the entire surface... this
yields the same result as 'antiquing' above in that it leaves the material only
in the crevices
.....the upper surface may also be sanded off to reveal clay
colors or patterns lying inside the clay (see Clay
Guns > Braid...or maybe Mokume Gane > Sanded.....or Mica
> Ghost Image)...
...finishes:
.....clear liquid sealers like
Future (floor polish) or Rustoleum's Varathane (aka 'Flecto' to
clayers) --must be the water-washup one---can be applied with the hands
as well as with brushes (may even avoid any bubble problems that way....then wash
hands with soap and water
....clear solid waxes can be rubbed on applied
as well
....sanding and buffing... polymer clay can be sanded with wet-dry
sandpaper (water keeps any dust down), usually 400 grit then 600 grit to smooth
it in preparation for buffing
....buffing would be best done, I think,
with a small 'Dremel' a fluffy wheel or two ....should be safe even for
the blind as long as hair is tied back and any other loose things are out of the
way (btw, touching the rotating buffing wheel isn't painful)
... or the sanded
surface can be rubbed briskly on cloth with a texture (jeans, beadspread,
etc.) to bring out a sheen
(see Finishes...
Sanding-Tumbling... Buffing)
A low-temp heat gun (like an embossing gun) can be used if needed to 'set' certain areas so they can't be damaged when working on other parts (Tools > Heat Guns)
For more activities and suggestions which may also work for the blind....see below in 'some Suggestions for Polymer Activities,' and all over the rest of this page as well.
The Kids page here also functions in some ways as a beginner's page because I tried to list some of the simpler things can could be done with many of the polymer techniques as well as kid theme things.
If you have a dog, be aware they some of them love to eat raw clay, resulting in technicolor poop. It doesn't seem to hurt them at all, but as with humans it's best not to load up the body with plasticizer. So be sure to keep it covered or otherwise protected if your dog isn't well trained, or happens to like the stuff.
I find that
my pieces which are most appreciated by partially-sighted friends and family are,
not surprisingly, the most tactile ones. I tend to embellish the clay with
things like feathers (owl masks) or threads or I simply impress
textures into the clay before baking it.
....one excellent source of very
varied and reasonably priced textures are the Clearsnap 'Colorbox' range of 'rubber
mats.' They're quite small (about 3x10 ins) but each mat contains about 15
different designs (the mats are meant to be used with heatable stamping wands,
but we clayers are well known for co-opting all kinds of non-clay apparatus!)
Alan V.
http://www.clearsnap.com/site.html
(see more in Stamping)
KIDS with disabilities & special needs
please
NOTE: ....there's more on kids
with special needs below under 'Emotional issues'
.....and also below under 'Suggestions for Polymer Activities'
...also
more at Sculpey's page (regarding clay and cognitive, communicative, physical,
emotional, etc, difficulties)
http://www.sculpey.com/specialneeds.htm
...also
many of the regular items for kids on the Kids
page could be useful
"Clay as Art Therapy," by Garie Sim
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/about13.htm
(then click on link there for complete text)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/learning.htm
a mother talks about how learning to use polymer
clay at Garie Sim's school helped her ADHD child (cognitive, learning
difficulties) tremendously (from age 8), and see some of Yijun's clay work
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/yijun%27s%20site/more.htm
a
mother talks about her autistic son and how much his speech and development
grew when he discovered polymer clay (at the AWWA Special School Play Clay
school)
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/about_kervyn.htm
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/special_kid.htm
(Kervyn's creations)
(AWWA Special School is an extension
of Garie Sim's regular polymer clay school for kids in Singapore)
...'with
the Play Clay Programme we hope to create more happy and confident kids,
despite their physical and mental problems
...clay art can help reinforce
one's sense of identity, idividuality, and self esteem
....as
well as being a powerful vehicle for expressing one's inner life
and bringing out unconscious material (can manifest aspects of emotional
life which may have been 'split off' or repressed')
....Play Clay can also
be a useful and playful way to develop social skills, through its inherent
co-operative interaction
....(working and playing with clay can also) develop
and cultivate in the child's mind a good sense of composition, better visualization
of color, a firm basic sense of proportion and allow them to be more
focused in what she or he is doing ... and the creative thought process will
improves a child's skill of visual observation.'
.....the manipulation
of the materials themselves affects physical well-being as well,
and is an excellent way to develop small motor skills
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/playclay.htm
http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/learning.htm
especially for my special ed., elem. students,
(as an incentive device) I make movable magnet
figures on a painted metal whiteboard ... it works like a motivation
or progress chart)
...first they make a little clay skater
figure (I love the different hairstyles,hats,scarves
the kids put on them)... then put a magnet on back
...then they get
to move their figure around a ('Skateboard Park' track) --one
segment every day that their assignment is done, or that they
come to class on time, etc. (also ....when they get to segment #14, they
get to choose a prize out of the prize box)
...I painted
the Skateboard Park background with straight tempera on a 3x4'
metal whiteboard
......actually I painted on the BACK
of the white board, since the magnets stick better on
the back side (back is metal with a matte finish).
.......oh
and thanks for the reminder about the liquid soap helping paint
stick on waxed milk cartons, etc. -- I'd forgotten about that one! Will use it
for sure when I do any repainting. .. last year I had no problem with chipping,
but this year there has been a little. The magnets do not often come in contact
with the painted areas (?).....each year I paint a new picture,
after washing off the old one. LynnDel
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/0302february.pdf
(click on 'Skateboard Park'from 2nd page)
http://home.earthlink.net/~danewbold/page2.html
(gone?) (see more on magnets in Other
Materials > Magnets)
(see also Rod Wicks' work with older children, below in Emotional Difficulties)
fine
motor skills practice, organizational thinking, cause-effect,
etc.
..see Kids > Toys for many
possibilities:
...fishing games, lots of motion toys ... including my
magnet bug toy (clay or other 'bug' with a magnet underneath is moved down
a path drawn on cardstock by kid, by moving another magnet around underneath)
for
a spelling, etc. game for kids Mary Lyons' lesson on creating
clay cubes with a pasta alphabet letter impressed
into each side
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_entertaining_other/article/0,1801,HGTV_3116_1380656,00.html
...also
see Letters-Inks for many other ways
to create letters with clay, or to incorporate lettering with polymer clay...
also at Sculpey's page (above)
(see
more on each of these ideas below, under
Emotional)
....to help kids
identify or express facial expressions and emotions of their
own (or of others), make interchangeable Mr. Potato Head
type pieces from polymer (eyes, nose, mouth, ears, hat, collar, or any
other accessory... could be happy/sad/angry).. . .
...making
figures (or accessories or backgrounds) from polymer clay to
use in various ways, or just as is?
...larger sand
trays and tabletop Zen gardens (small trays) use many items
in shallow trays filled with sand to make scenes
'houses'
(created by children from around the world
with disabilities) to express
their hopes and dreams --non-polymer, but inspirational)
http://www.vsarts.org/prebuilt/showcase/gallery/exhibits/cbborders/cbb01.html
(keep clicking NEXT)
I
was asked to suggest ways that kids of impaired ability could be made interested
in the polymer clay
... I found that lots of colours were the
key
.....Pearlex powders are a boon too, but can be messy, so
may I suggest putting it into smaller, weighted pots (or even stuck-down
containers) and soft paintbrushes (or finger) for application. Alan V.
links
for physical and learning disabilities http://www.pitt.edu/~poole/eledSpecEd.html
suggestions for picking out toys http://www.kidsource.com/kidsource/content3/toys.disabilities.html
...also
Toys 'R' Us Toy Guide For Differently Abled Kids (created through its partnerships
with the National Lekotek Center and the National Parent Network on Disabilities,
Toys 'R' Us developed and distributed this digest-sized catalog -- the ideal resource
for parents, family members and friends who just don't know what to get for a
child with special needs....it features more than 60 popular toys, and
is available now at Toys 'R' Us stores).
Start with the
Arts is an instructional program for 4-6 year-olds that uses
the arts to assist young children, including those with disabilities, in exploring
themes commonly taught in early childhood classrooms.