Types of glue
Polymer clay-related glues
...Liquid clays (often the best)
...Diluent (aka Sculpey's Clay Softener or Fimo's Diluent F)
......mineral oil, Vaseline
"White" glues (PVA, Sobo ...tacky...sizing, etc.)
"Epoxy" glues
...one part (E-6000, Goop)
...2-part epoxy glues
....other 2-part epoxy materials
Superglues (cyanoacrylates)
...brands of superglue
Misc adhesives...cements... acrylic "gel medium"... or don't know type
Hot glues
Other glues & fillers 
.....+ release & solder
Misc. re all glues
Some bonding techniques
...clay to clay
...attaching pinbacks & other metal surfaces
Superglue solvents (use also as release, Repel Gel, etc.)
...on clay

GLUES to use with polymer & Sewing


Liquid clays are probably the best and strongest glue for polymer clay... they must be baked to cure
...see Liquid Clay for most of the info on them
...liquid clay is not tacky, so pieces must be propped together for baking, or used with another glue temporarily (like a superglue)
.......however, if TLS is left out in the open, it will thicken up to a fairly gluelike consistency
get a translucent liquid clay for most gluing applications so it won't show

Sculpey's Diluent-Softener is a very strong glue for polymer also... it is the same as or similar to the plasticizer in polymer clay
.....must be baked to cure
.....Diluent is not tacky, so pieces must be propped together for baking, or used with another glue temporarily (like a superglue)
.... available in small plastic nozzle bottles in the *top* of the Sculpey display at crafts/arts stores (sometimes hard to find), or it can be purchased mail order. It's cheap, only about $2.00, and lasts a long time when used as a glue).
. . . for attaching raw clay to baked clay. Wipe the diluent onto the baked clay, wait a minute or rub till tacky, then attach the raw clay.

Regular "glues" and "adhesives" are quite complicated, with many categories
... in addition, new types or hybrids are being created all the time!
....for technical details and differences between types of glues, check out pages/sites like:
For purposes of this page however, they will be discussed with the following categories
.... (be aware that some of them may not be "sorted" accurately):

Reactive synthetic glues (cyanoacrylate, epoxy, polyurethane, urea resin & resorcinol)
...formulated from synthetic components...cure primarily by chemical reaction.

Cyanoacrylate (CA) glues or "superglues" ... (Loc-tite, Zap-A-Gap, and many more)
when attaching raw or baked clay to raw or baked clay or to other nonporous surfaces (clay, metal, etc.) (to attach a non-porous to porous, you can use both).
...surfaces must fit exactly though for the instant variety (without fillers)... other types have accelerants, slowing working times, etc.
...can also be used along with other glues which will cure during heating (as temporary hold)
...moisture begins the curing process ...and will degrade with excessive heat

Epoxy glues ... 2-part glues which self-harden within minutes after being mixed together ... strong

Silicone glues
(E6000 or Goop) ...very thick clear glue ... flexible after drying ... (not too good for lungs... use with some ventilation)
...for gluing baked clay to non-porous surfaces like baked clay, pinbacks, glass, etc. etc.
...spread glue on both parts that are to be attached and let it sit for a few minutes (the tube says 10 minutes; 3 - 4 minutes is fine for clay, *then* press them together. .. use enough glue to avoid a "starved bond"
...some can also be used as molds or for molding (see Molds)

Nonreactive synthetic glues (PVA, contact cement, and hot-melt glue)
... formulated from synthetic ingredients but cure much like natural glues -- by releasing water or solvent (drying) or heat (cooling).

"White" glues ...most white glues are a suspension of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) resin in water...PVA resin glues.......also tacky glues, "wood glues"... sizing glues, etc
...medium strength... water "resistant" ... flexible and clear after drying
......characteristics vary a lot among brands and types
....can be used for many things with clay, but not good for when real strength is required ... often used as an undercoating to prepare an object to be covered with clay (and seals porous surfaces)... often used with paper and clay bonds
...use thinly...too much glue results in bad bond
...can also be used as a "contact cement"
Also polymer "mediums"

Natural glues ("brown glues"):
....these were the first glues... made from natural materials
...rice and wheat pastes, starches ... fish glue ... hide glue ... and casein glue
... cure by moisture loss, heat loss or a combination of both (casein glue is a slight exception, as it is made of milk curd but accomplishes some of its curing by chemical reaction)

Good page for technical info re types of glues, methods of adhesion, etc.

NOTE: in polymer books and TV shows, often brand names are not allowed to be given
... for example, Superglue becomes cyanoacrylate glue, and Sobo glue becomes heat-resistant polyvinyl acetate glue (for Armorall, I finally came up with non-aerosol automotive vinyl protectant. Plexiglas and Lucite are brand names, too, so they become simply acrylic.) Irene SD

POLYMER CLAY-related glues


...perhaps the best type of glue for polymer clay...
( please see all info re liquid clays in Liquid Clay > "As a Glue")

(aka Sculpey Clay Softener, or Diluent F)

NOTE: Sculpey-Polyform's brand is now called Sculpey Clay Softener
the brand available from Fimo-EberhardFaber called Diluent F

PRONUNCIATION = DILL-you-went . . . (ahemthis is the proper pronunciation, insist clayers who work in labs…it's NOT die-LU-tent, even though that pronunciation sounds more like "dilute"!)
...definition: http://www.google.com/search?num=50&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&oi=defmore&q=define:Diluent

Polymer clay diluents are basically just the liquid ingredient in polymer clay (the plasticizer) which binds everything else together and is also responsible for the "hardening" of the clay after baking (hope I have that right!).

Diluents must be baked at some point or they will stay damp or tacky.

All Diluents are fairly cheap, only about $2.00, and last a long time (if you don't use it to thin liquid clays too much anyway).

1. Sculpey's diluent used to be called Diluent, but has been renamed Sculpey Clay Softener --most clayers still refer to it by its old name though!!!!
The Sculpey brand is available in small plastic nozzle-bottles in the *top* of the Sculpey display at crafts/arts stores (Patty says it's now with the displays of clay in sets for children rather than in the regular clay display)—someone said it’s at WalMart too
...or it can be purchased mail order.
...Sculpey's diluent doesn't work with Fimo (true??) Katherine Dewey
2. Fimo's diluent is called Diluent-F...it's relatively new, and not as widely available as the Sculpey brand at this time
.........."a 6 oz. liquid plasticizer used to mix with clay for softening. This was made especially for FIMO but it seems to work well with any polymer clay.

USES for diluents:
.... to make raw clay softer
....as a thinner for liquid clays
....as a glue in certain situations
....to make clay pastes & grouts
.for a flawless matte finish, applying diluent with a soft bristle brush removes tool marks (and reheating removes brush marks)...Katherine
...as a solvent, it will remove pigment stains and smudges from baked clay. . . Katherine
....brush on the 'dusty' surface of baked slices, then rebake (if not sanding and buffing to remove)
...someone mentioned dabbing a tiny bit of diluent on the eyeballs of their small figures with the end of a toothpick, for a gloss (a heavy coat?)


Diluent is also an extrememly strong glue when used with polymer.
You can use it raw clay to raw clay, or raw to baked, or baked to baked (to replace that projecting piece that fell off, etc.).... the bond seems to be stronger than the clay itself.

Diluents have little tackiness or holding strength if used alone (before baking)
....so prop together pieces to be joined during baking (unless gravity won't affect them)
....or hold the joined pieces together long enough during baking to allow the liquid clay or Diluent to work
the easiest way is just to use a few dots of superglue alongside whichever you use
.....sometimes an armature is used between the two pieces along with the diluent as well (such as a piece of toothpick, bit of wire, or bit of cardstock, etc.)
....rubbing diluent on the baked clay (and leaving it to tack up a bit) enhances the bond between the raw and baked clay, making the separate components a strong, singular sculpture.
....the bond will be even greater if the pieces are allowed it to sit overnight
....... or you can simply let the bare clay pieces sit together a day or two before baking it to give the clay a chance to adhere well... it should work no matter if you do that or not, but I like to leave it so the new clay has a chance to kind of leach some plasticiser into the baked clay and create a stronger hold.

My dressed sculptures begin as nudes and are baked as nudes; often the arms and legs are baked as separate components to be added on to the raw body
--bas relief is another application made easier because of diluent.

I've been using diluent on raw to raw clay to attach appendages (knobs, handles, etc) to covered Altoid tins. After baking they are very firmly attached, but I was never sure the diluent was making the attachment any stronger than if I didn't use it. Now I know. Thanks! LynnDel

Diluent doesn't leave visible blobs as LS may do, but is quite watery and makes the surface slippery at first. But if you use it sparingly, rub it in and wait just a minute or two, it becomes sticky enough to add the raw clay, and doesn't change the texture of the surface. (I made 40 or so personalized pens for the teachers at my school -- covered the pens with polyclay and sanded them, rubbed on a drop of diluent with my finger, then stuck on the names I formed with raw Premo extruded string in script. Worked great). LynnDel
... just rubbing with the finger makes it become tacky, if you don't like waiting. Jody
Rub the baked clay with diluent (a few drops at most) until tacky, then apply the raw clay. If you're applying sheets of clay, watch out for air pockets when you apply the fresh clay. . .
....... If you're attaching a pedestal, pre formed, use the same method you would with an earth clay: first score the attachment surface, and then treat with diluent or use a thin film of liquid clay. (You can apply a pre formed and pre baked pedestal to your vase and have a very strong bond using liquid clay). Katherine Dewey

(for a glue,) instead of Diluent, rub the surface with a lump of MixQuick to help bond two pieces of clay, a trick I learned form Carolyn Potter. Katherine Dewey
...rubbing with any very soft clay like SuperSculpey can work too??
....Plankspanker, the sculptor, suggests using a thin coating of Vaseline to adhere raw to baked clay (in the same way with rubbing?)

To mend broken baked polymer pieces, you can try using Diluent on both sides, let sit, then bake..... It may work best to also add a drop of superglue around which you use the Diluent to hold them together (or they could need propping/clamping in the oven), and/or to let the parts sit together overnight, etc., before baking, as suggested above. (see more at top of page on other ways to mend).

Mixing Diluent with solid clay to produce "polymer paints" is yet another application
........ with this mixture and a painting knife you can create freeform bas reliefs, nice for landscapes.Katherine Dewey
....clays can be thinned a little, to a lot to create diff. kinds of polymer "paintings"
(see more in Paints > Polymer Paintings)

Diluent is also the thinner for liquid clay ... you will need it once you have liquid clay in order for it to work really well in some applications.
...the old original opaque LS is very sticky.... especially when it has set for over 6 months and tends to thicken somewhat
...I once had to thin even a brand new bottle of Sculpey Diluent when making transfers.... they just weren't working well until I tried thinning the Diluent down a bit, then worked just fine. Diane B.
(see much more on these applications and more in Liquid Clays)

Diluent makes the metallic powders like Pearlex and embossing powders adhere to baked clay, allowing a more precise control for pattern work....baking again insures a cured bond.
... you can apply Pearlex powders to a baked surface if it's been rubbed with diluent until tacky. Katherine Dewey
(see more in Powders & Waxes)

Diluent is often used to soften hard clay while conditioning it... (see Conditioning > Additives)

There are many ways Diluent can be used to smooth raw clay in sculpting (or any time)... (see all those in Sculpting-gen > Fingerprints)

Don't let diluent come in contact with your plastic eyeglass lenses or frames!.... I have a little melt spot on my right lens thanks to diluent!
...or contact many other kinds of stiff plastic because the Diluent will dissolve those surfaces
(see more in Covering > Plastics)

Mineral Oil, Vaseline, etc.

I score the clay on the joints and dab a bit of mineral oil on before I press them together.....and I make sure all the clay has also been conditioned recently. Kim2

Dan Platt also suggests a thin layer of Vaseline.
....Plankspanker, the sculptor, suggests using a thin coating of Vaseline to adhere raw to baked clay (in the same way, with rubbing & waiting, as above?)

WHITE glues
(PVA glues ...Sobo, tacky glues, etc.)

Most white glues are a suspension of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) resin in water...." vinyl acrylic"
....these include "all-purpose" white glues like Elmer's Glue-All, Sobo, etc.
......also tacky glues (thickened white glues), yellow "wood glue" (a faster setting, more waterproof refined white glue) , jewel-holding glues (GemTac, Jewel-It) ... sizing glues, etc.

All "white glues" work well with polymer clay for certain applications....characteristics vary a lot among brands and types
(however, washable"School Glues" are not recommended because they have lower strength, and aren't as flexible after drying
....(one of Elmers white glues is a "school" glue...will say on container)
....though school glue could perhaps be tried as a removable masking material?.. see below in Masking)

..they have .medium strength.....though some are stronger than others due to their formulations
.......can be used for many surfaces, with clay and other materials, but most not good for when real strength is required
......heating increases the bond because PVA is related to PVC polymer clay, and they "fuse" (but max. temp's vary)
.......often used as an undercoating to prepare an object to be covered with clay (and seals porous surfaces, as well as acting as a buffer to prevent cracking, etc.) ... often used with paper and polymer clay bonds

...use thinly & burnish or press ...too much glue results in bad bond
....can apply diluted or not with brush, credit-card squeegee, to get really thin (can keep brush in water or plastic when not using to keep glue from setting)
...can also be used as a "contact cement" (apply to both sides ....let glue dry almost completely... press together...can clamp or weight, if desired) ...stronger bond?

...water resistant, but not absolutely waterproof , so can't be used for things in constant contact with water (exactly how highly water-resistant they are depends on the individual formulation)
..low grade craft and hobby PVA glues are fairly soft and workable when cured, can be cut with hand tools
.......is reversible with water for 2 to 6 weeks after curing
.. high grade industrial PVA glues cure hard.... not reversible with water aft
er curing

...flexible after drying

...dry clear (except for colored glues, or yellow wood glue), especially in thin application
... may have many layers, but dry before new layer (all whiteness gone)

....may have inclusions for coloring or visual texture (just about anything
.......mica powders, pigment powders, acrylic paints, permanent inks, glitters, play sand, etc.

...may be used as a clear finish
diluted PVA glue (white glue) is the best (and cheapest) sealant that I've used, especially if you're worried that a decoration may be disturbed by subsequent treatment ......this works wonderfully well also after you've drawn or watercolored on clay. . . . as it's water based, one can dilute it with water to whatever consistency one needs.....the beauty of this polymeric glue is that it doesn't react with clay plasticisers, will withstand baking temperatures and is completely clear when it dries. Alan V.

may have a layer of acrylic finish like Varathane added to them (for added gloss or for greater strength)
....may be painted over with acrylic paints, etc.

Sobo (PVA) white glue differs from Elmer's in that it has the additional property of being heat resistant and UV resistant.
(...It is often a glue chosen to make lamp shades because of these additional properties )
...seems to work best on porous surfaces, but can be used to coat glass or metal too before adding clay
... For our use, (polymer clay), the heat resistance is great since heat doesn't dry out the cured Sobo.
....doesn't break down (?) and yellow over time like Elmer's and some other white glues. Meredith
... Sobo will act as a buffer layer between the polymer and a surface like metal since it contracts and expands at a slightly different rate than either the metal or the clay. ... it prevents the clay from being in direct contact with the metal.
....to find Sobo glue, look at an art supply store, or at Michaels or other craft shops. At Michaels, it’s hard to find because it’s not exactly with the glues. It’s a tall bottle (white with blue & green detailing) and often on a bottom shelf, near the glues.

white vinyl glues made for attaching jewels to fabric (Gem Tac, Jewel-It, etc.)... they work very well ....Dritz's Liquid Stitch is also made by Beacon and may be the same product in a different bottle.
...Gem Tac is formulated to bond both porous and non-porous surfaces (i. e. gems to fabric)... they easily bond to metal, a big plus for me
...as you can machine wash and machine dry these glues, temperature is not a problem......it is waterproof and heat resistant.
...some are fairly thin bodied ... can use a second coat on porous materials after "sealing" with first thin coat.
...I love the "slightly tacky before cured state" if left to dry a bit ... it makes covering eggs a fairly fool-proof process. The clay bonds securely and doesn't want to move or slide (this is what causes those pesky bubbles). Katherine Dewey
....Unlike Sobo, it doesn't bead up on non-permeable surfaces, so it's ideal for preparing metal and ceramics to accept polymer clay
.......Gem Tac is a little thicker than Sobo so is what I generally use when I am coating surfaces like glass or metal such as wire armatures (you can just insert the wire in the opening in the tip and it pulls out with a thin coating.) Sara Jane

"The Ultimate!" (by Crafter's Pick)
... has some characteristics of a tacky glue... high performance glue formulated especially for hard to glue projects
......adheres to metals, plastics, glass, ceramics, vinyls, painted or varnished surfaces, wood, fabrics, leather, paper, etc.
usable as a liquid glue
..... also useable as a contact cement for non-porous materials...coat both surfaces, allow to go clear, then press together ...can hold a while, or clamp or weight too
Celia used it to bond baked clay to baked clay
. no fumes... flexible after drying?
a wonderful glue for polymer artists. ....it is my glue of choice over sobo or tacky glue. Love it! Helen
...I contacted the company who makes it....they were vague about the amount of heat it could take without weakening, but said they had heard that polymer clay artists were confirming that it does not seem to degrade when heated.
.......so I tested it on baked polymer (...had not been scored)
.......half with alcohol cleaning first... half without, straight from the bottle.
.......half were applied as usual... half as a "contact cement" (where I waited for the adhesive to begin to turn clear a bit, prior to joining)
.......all baked at 275 for 30 minutes... left to sit 48 hours
big surprise ....all of the samples that were heated were well bonded, where all of the ones that were not heated would come apart fairly easily
....this is a great plus for those of us who need to bake our polymer creations after glueing. Jacqui
...a favorite glue of Barbara McGuire, Maureen, Carlson, Meredith Arnold, and others

Weldbond ("Universal Adhesive" ...it also comes as "Professional Wood Glue" and "Outdoor Wood Glue")
......... "a PVA glue, but unlike other PVAs it does a great job on some non-porous materials such as glass, stone and concrete as well
.......... (however, a few types of plastic, rubber and cast metals will not produce a bond with Weldbond including polyethylene, unbacked vinyl, PVC, Teflon, polypropylene, vinyl to vinyl, cast iron, cast aluminium and so-called "pot" metals)
.........what makes this glue different from other PVAs is that it is catalyzed, whereby changing the molecular structure of the polymer
....highly concentrated adhesive (...can be mixed with water to dilute) ... tacky ... sets quickly
....strong after curing overnight... the longer it cures, the stronger it is (up to a few days)
....no fumes, non-allergenic, and water-cleanup
....white, but dries crystal clear ...remains flexible .... relatively non-toxic
..."will glue almost anything to anything (balsa, plywood, acetate, fiberglass, hardwood, foam, and paper)"
...can also use as sealer..... or good as a primer for porous surfaces
..."highly water-resistant and withstands all climatic conditions after curing"...(& impervious to petroleum, oil, grease, weak acids)
...bonds semi-precious and precious stones to chromed or brass surfaces ...the metal surfaces must be cleaned with a quality solvent & sanded first tho.
....do not use when bonding containers designed for use with, or subject to, hot liquids
.I coat glass votives, and wood and plastic switchplates with it.... let it dry... and then add the polymer clay.
.......to me, it is the strongest glue out there ... baking at our temps does not affect it whatsoever. Marie
Weldbond should work with foils on clay too... just apply and wait until it "tacks and snaps" before putting on your foil. Sammy
...I have had great luck with "Weldbond" glue for small and large items.... one of my pins accidentally went throught the 'washer and dryer' and came out fine
.... I have also found that it works best if it is actually baked onto the piece. For this reason I always apply a liberal amount of 'Weldbond' and then the 'metal finding' and then 'bake'.
AVAILABLE .....I sell Weldbond glue (great stuff ). Karen at Clay Alley http://www.clayalley.com
http://www.yankeeharvest.com/weldbond and ...http://www.franktross.com/weld_craft.asp


On unbaked-to-baked clay, I'll apply Sobo to the baked surface, then let it dry or almost dry before applying the unbaked clay (it's easier to work with it when it's not really wet)
....when I'm attaching unbaked clay to baked clay, I try to let it sit overnight so the unbaked clay can leach into the baked clay a little (I think this makes a stronger bond. If I was using TLS on baked-to-baked clay, I'd let it sit overnight for the same reason) Personally, I'm not a big fan of TLS as a glue because it's too slippery, even the stuff I've had for years which has thickened a bit. I'll have to leave some sitting out to let it thicken up even more and see if that changes my opinion.
..on baked surfaces, no matter what glue you use or what you're gluing it to, be sure to wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol before applying glue to get rid of any oils or residue on the surface. Irene

Tory Hughes, in her video, suggests coating BOTH sides of the paper with the Sobo glue and letting it dry before including it on her polymer clay item. She then uses a brayer to smooth out any bubbles and "recess" it into the clay (if that's what you want).
Tory recommends SOBO on porous surfaces (wood, paper, etc) and the superglue on the nonporous surfaces (clay, metal, etc.) When you try to attach a non-porous to porous, you have to use both. Mamadude

You could also be having problems because the wood object you were covering still had some moisture in it and it expanded during baking; this can also cause cracking. Try baking your raw wood for about 15 min. at 250 degrees to dry it out before coating with glue. Diane B.

If you want to be extra sure, put the pin back in place with some Gem Tac (glue), then let that set up a little and put a thin piece of clay over the pin and onto the back of your piece. The pins I've made this way have stayed together quite well. Irene
The glues we usually find good for clay weren't good for bonding to the canvas (on the stretched frame). But I found that the jewel attaching glue was the best for this purpose also.

wood or carpenter's glue works great when adhering baked polymer clay to wood. It is a strong solution and will not fall off with time. I have time tested it and it really holds up! Ilysa (wood glue has been developed to have more water-resistant qualities than regular white glues)

I've been trying to think of a way to do a lot of Sobo-ing at once. Perhaps thinning it slightly with water, laying out a dozen to 20 switch plates, and using a sponge or foam brush to quickly swipe the edges of each. Hmmmm.....
What about thinning the Sobo down with water, then using a spray bottle?
Then there's the roller glue bottles they sell to wood workers --they have this built-in rubber brayer that spreads the glue over large areas. I think my DH has one in his shop, though maybe not for long. <G> Actually I already keep a bit of thinned glue in a film can that I can apply with a brush. Halla


"Tacky" glues are usually are thicker than most white glues, but some are "thin-bodied" too (can thin either type with water, or cool-freeze to thicken)
....slightly different in composition from the other white glues
....dry clear and are washable... also good for use on fabrics!
....as with other white glues, apply thinly

... the characteristics listed (dries clear, stays flexible, etc) are the same as Sobo. I don't know whether they are the same or not, but on the show they frequently mention it having plasticizers in it. So I tried it and it has worked fine with pc for me!
....Tacky glue works terrificly! I use it with pc all the time. ~~Dianne C.

Aleene’s Tacky Glue . . . (in the gold bottle) ... the first "tacky" glue
...there is also a thin-bodied version

Incredibly Tacky (Crafter's Pick)

Velverette (Delta)

...some of the white glues above may fall somewhat in this category as well (like "The Ultimate!")

...can make a dimensional and possibly colored material from tacky glue and acrylic paint to use for sheets of pattern, and possibly texture sheets for clay
... for each color desired, mix
1/2 cup tacky glue in a plastic bag with 1 tsp of acrylic paint ... mix in bag... squeeze onto shiny side of freezer paper however you want (don't overlap too much, unless you'll like the new mixed colors that result)... add second sheet of freezer paper ...burnish till somewhat thinned ... remove top sheet and leave flat overnight
... can be cut with scissors, punched, etc. ... glue onto other surfaces as veneer, cut into shapes, etc.... can seal with acrylic finish or spray if will be in contact with water.
(see also faux vinyl in Paints > Acrylic > More Uses... can also be done with all paint, or paint and baking soda, etc.)

"sizing" glue

sizing . . . (a white? glue that remains tacky after drying). . .
...The reason I use the sizing sometimes is because some of the glass balls (ornaments) that I purchased didn't seem to want to let the clay stick to them, and regular sobo or such just gets kind of messy. I had the sizing so I tried it. Helen

Sharon I use the Eberhard Faber (Fimo) brand of size when I am doing photo transfers. I've never had a problem with that....I use after baking and transfering my image. Sometimes I purposely don't colour in part of my image and paint size onto the back of it and then add my Magic leaf before mounting the thin transfered image on to its background piece of raw clay. Petra
...I used the Old World Art brand. Geo
...When using clay with composition foils, I use the adhesive sold for the Delta Renaissance foils with no problems... it seems to clean out of brushes with plain soap and water. . . .Sammy


some "envelope" glues are white glues as well (see Boxes-Envelopes for ways to make gelatin based envelope glues)

glue intended for removable items (repositionable) ... a kind of sizing glue??:
...I use Aileens product, Tack it Over & Over ( I believe it's called) to attach tiny or odd shaped polymer clay costumes onto my ceramic fat cats ( long, odd story...) which I sell. It seems to work well with the polymer, and does stay quite sticky, and can be removed and replaced again and again ( just like the product's name...imagine that! <G> ) I believe it would work well with polymer to cover the screws in switchplates ......pat

(for applying a smaller amount of glue)
......There are applicator bottles that have different size metal tips, from .5mm to .9mm (I believe).
.......The bottles can be found in different sizes..... I have the 1/2 oz bottle and I find it great for applying glues and other liquids.
...Instead of taking off the metal tip before storaage, I just insert a pin into the metal tip to keep it from drying out.

http:// www.dharmatrading.com and http://www.jacquardproducts.com
......or check for the metal tips packages (including one bottle) at crafts stores

More Acrylic "glues"

Acrylic Polymer "Mediums" are also acrylic based ...(also called: acrylic mediums & gels & pastes, acrylic gel mediums, gel mediums, polymer mediums, etc.)
...they come in many viscosities and each has its special properties or inclusions
...use in many of the ways white glues are used, but these aren't usually used straight glues
...can use as a finish, though not as sturdy a finish as white glue
...also come as thick "modeling paste"
(TEMPORARY... for all info on gel mediums, see bottom of page)



Epoxy is basically plastic... a thick resin.
....comes in different formulations
.......can be used as a high-strength glue, a patching material, to cast small items, or to give something an air-tight protective coating.
Most of the epoxies that we've used come in two "flavors" --one-part or two-part:
..."one-part" epoxies do not require any special mixing to use (commercial one-part epoxy brands include E-6000 and Goop).
....two-part epoxies come in two separate tubes or containers, and need to be mixed together before using

....epoxy (or only 2-pt epoxies?) on an airplane is a severe no-no because epoxy (& occasionally polymer too) reads on the equipment as "plastique & other moldable explosives"... it also can't be air mailed if ordered

E-6000 & GOOP ....... Silicone glues & caulks?
("one-part epoxy" glues)

E-6000 ..."is a one-part epoxy (meaning you don't have to mix anything). . ." but technically it is an epoxy, it seems.

GOOP (Amazing Household All Purpose GOOP) ....pretty much the same as "E-6000" which is more likely found in hardware stores; Goop is found mostly in craft stores)
E-6000 may be a bit stronger ...and no silicone?, but rubber?
...there is also a Plumber's Goop, an Automotive Goop, and a bunch of other Goops that are nearly the same

"I have used a few of these "different" products and my vote is that they all seem to be about the same, except for the colors.
... my experience has been corroborated by every handyperson and hardware store magnate that has ever opened a tube of this great stuff, there are some subtle differences":
Eclectic Products (manufacturers of various Goops and E-6000, and others) said in response to an inquiry:
....Household GOOP®, Automotive GOOP®, and Plumbing GOOP® are all the same formula.
... Amazing GOOP® and Craft GOOP® contain a thinner formula for precise, detailed work.
....Wood & Furniture GOOP® is a thicker, non-slump formula perfect for vertical and overhead applications.
....Lawn & Garden GOOP®, Marine GOOP®, RV GOOP® and Sport and Outdoor GOOP® are all UV-resistant.
... Shoe GOO® is a more rubbery formula allowing for greater flexibility.

Goop sold in Canada is slightly diff (has a less flammable ingredient than U.S. verison, but a carginocenic one is left in)

...these are strong adhesives, and can be used for more surfaces than most other glues
...they bond to metals, glass, rubber and plastics, ceramics, gemstones, wood, leather, vinyl, canvas, masonry, concrete, many plastics

are very thick (though some are a bit thinner)...and come in tubes
... will dry clear (some are colored though), waterproof, acid free, paintable, and somewhat flexible

...The tube of E-6000 is very clear about the method that must be used for a creating a successful bond with this type of glue:
(....sand surfaces if necessary to remove lumps from surfaces before adding glue)
......put E6000 on both parts that are to be attached
...then let sit for a few minutes (tube says 10 min, but I find 3-4 min works best for me)
.......then press together
.......also, enough glue must be used to avoid a "starved bond" (their term) ... but a thicker glue area can fail more easily than a thin one
...for the clay item, I sand the area where the finding will be, then also wipe it with alcohol before gluing. Jenny.

....adheres in 5-10 min. (open time)... then hardens to a full cure in 24 hrs
... E-6000 also dries like rubber, so its seal also acts like a shock absorber if a piece is dropped (compared to superglue, e.g.).

There seems to be some variability in the holding power of E-6000 glue, as reported over the years:
...First, it must be applied correctly to work well (see just above in Application)
.......I am still wearing 10-year-old polymer clay barrettes I made using E6000 ...people with failures may simply have not cleaned the pieces to be glued and/or did not follow the instructions on the tube.Irene
...E6000 can withstand a lot of heat for short periods, but it can be heat sensitve after curing if exposed to sufficient heat or sun for a continuous period of time
.... so if its used for adhering anything that will hang, or be vertical (i.e. earrings, pins worn on clothing, or magnets) with sufficient continuous heat, the glue may soften slightly, and can loosen its bond (so clay item can fall off the backing).
Clayers have reported clay falling off pinbacks when at summer craft shows outdoors in Florida for several hours (it should hold in the dryer though, but again that's "occasional" heat, not continuous for a length of time).
....a thicker layer of glue will pull apart later more than a thinner layer... but can't be too thin or will be "starved" bond
...a new tube seems to work great, but as it gets older the glue thickens and loses it's stickiness...maybe age of the glue counts? InaRae
...perhaps people (with failures) are comparing all the Goop type glues, and some are more susceptible than others
.. perhaps the reason E6000 works for some people and not others is not the glue, but the metal they are gluing it on. It's worth thinking about that anyway. Shelley
...We may find that the oils in our skin or acid level or even things in the air in different areas may affect the bond. Kim
...manufacturers are allowed lots of variability in their product ....they can allow a less-than-perfect batches to go to market if they think it fulfills the basic product needs. ...The folks who make E6000 could have made an executive decision that they are comfortable with lots of variation in their product.Marie
...and one friend of mine found that her supplier had changed the manufacturer (or factory?) of the glue she'd been using successfully for years when she found it suddenly wasn't holding. ...she eventually persuaded them to change back to the original manufacturer and had no more problems again! Shelley

According to the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for these glues, they are not good for lungs
...... so use with ventilation
....of the 5 diff. types of glues the Glue Safety Sheet from FireMountain listed, the worst by far was E6000 for "health hazards".
...I have noticed that Goop smells much worse than E-6000 (of course, that doesn't mean anything toxic-wise, except that it doesn't smell as bad!) linda
.......also keep off skin?
.... silicone glues and caulks emit acetic acid while curing
Never glue E-6000 or Goop to a hot or warm piece of clay ... the fumes it creates are horrid! Dotty

I used E6000 to glue rhinestones and pearls onto the lace (and onto demin) ... about a year later I had customers coming back and showing me their jackets where the glue had yellowed (from UV light). I looked at my own jacket (which I had not worn for several months) and saw the same thing happening. The glue was no longer transparent, but a yellow on the beautiful white lace
...so if this glue is applied in a place that won't be seen, it would be ok to use. But please do not use it where it can be seen after drying. Jeanette
...some of these glues are UV resistant though (those for outdoor use, such as Lawn and Garden, Marine, etc.)

Some of the parchment papers in the US come with a silicone coating (mostly the recycled paper in the gourmet grocers will have this kind ...usually says on the outside of the box if it's silicone treated).
...clay baked on those has difficulty holding findings which were attached with
glues and epoxies
...it took me a while to figure why my pin backs were falling off after using the same stuff to attach them for 9 years. It was fine when I just returned to baking on regular paper on my cookie sheet.  Cary

auto-parts stores will have several specialized silicone glues in the small squeeze tubes, and they are also in various colors
.......sometimes those tubes have temperature ratings written on the tubes.
...If the glue does not smell strongly like "vinegar" while it's fresh and uncured, it is probably not high-heat silicone. Jacqui

Silicone glues set with moisture ....as the glue sets, it uses the water molecules to link the giant silicone molecules (polymers) together...this reaction produces a flexible rubber like substance, and in the process vinegar is given off (you can smell the vineager if you open the container).
....The product formed as the silicone sets is known as a thermosetting plastic. This plastic will not melt (a thermoset material cannot be melted and re-molded after it is cured.. it is not recyclable.... Thermosetting plastics are primarily used for appliance knobs and handles, bottle caps, radio and TV cabinets, laminated countertops and melamine dinnerware; probably the most familiar use is for heat-resistant handles on metal cookware. Although thermosetting plastics are not affected by moderate heat, you should not inadvertently leave a detachable pot handle or melamine dinner plate near intense or direct heat. While they will not melt like thermoplastic, they may warp ).

A lot of caulking is silicone-based, but it doesn't have as strong adhesion.

I've been pleased with Polyseamseal Tub & Tile Adhesive Caulk ...which is sold at Home Depot... for most of my polymer clay gluing
....it takes 24 hours to dry (fully cure?)... it is not volatile... cleans up with soap and water ....and it dries clear.
I've even baked pins after I've used it to glue on pinbacks and the bond seems to remain a strong as it was before baking.
(......I think cleaning metal by mechanical or chemical means before joining always improves the bond --alcohol, sandpaper)

2-pt. EPOXY glues

("Epoxy" is basically plastic... a thick resin ....it comes in different formulations)
.......epoxies can be used as high-strength glue, or as a patching material, or to cast small items, or to give something an air-tight protective coating-finish.
Most of the epoxies that we've used come in two "flavors" --one-part and two-part:
..."one-part" epoxies do not require any special mixing to use (commercial one-part epoxy brands include E-6000 and Goop).
....two-part epoxies, like the ones below, come in two separate tubes or containers, and need to be mixed together before using

...are compatible with polymer clay
...cure or harden by a chemical reaction between 2 components which are mixed together shortly before use.

...come in diff. versions, with diff. set times
.....some are quick-set ... others will say the "open time" is 5 min or longer (for clay, this might make a difference for what you're connecting
..use with reasonable ventilation

good for baked polymer clay ...very strong bond
I even glued baked clay to ordinary cement, using epoxy (the brand I use is Super Glue's Quick Setting Epoxy --a two part mix, easy to use... worked terrific for me)
... though any two part epoxy would work well I would think. -- Michele
...Ford and Forlano only use the slow-drying epoxy that has to be mixed then used right away. I have earrings of theirs that have to be 8-9 years old and are still holding tight. Karen FL

I have had good luck with a two-part epoxy.... I recommend using the 2 part epoxy for the best hold.
....the only thing to watch for with that is yellowing. You don't want any to show. Cindy

JB Weld is an automotive epoxy made to withstand high temperatures
...super strong ....non-toxic
...bonds to virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous material
...water-proof ..... resists shock, vibration & temperature fluctuations ...resistant to petroleum, chemicals, acids
...withstands temperatures up to 500° F.
...can be formed, then drilled, ground, sanded, and painted after curing
...stays pliable for about 30 min after mixing... sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hrs.
.......before setting can be cleaned up with soap and water
...I used it to coat the twisted wire branches of my "trees" and around brass tubing to hold them)...Katherine Dewey

as a thick finish:
...Nancy Banks covers some of her transfers (on clay) with a 2-pt epoxy glue (prob. Devcon as below) to give them a thick, glassy, clear finish
......the glue will self-level and will be rounded at the edges if not contained?

can cast it in molds:
...Nancy Banks sometimes mixes embossing powders into 2-part epoxy glue (like Devcon...?30 min. setting type) with a stick
......she then uses this in a silicone mold ... wrap aluminum foil (?) (won't stick to epoxy)
......can wet sand, if needed... clear and very interesting
...realistic eyeball...using an epoxy adhesive
...(Devon Clear Two Component Epoxy adhesive) ...is this really Devcon's 10 Minute Epoxy Clear? (cures somewhat flexible, 50 ml per package)... or Devcon's 5 Minute Epoxy (cures hard, clear?, 2.5 oz or 15 oz)...(hardware store or Sears?)
colored with dry tempera paint powders
...mold made from 2 -pt silicone from a round object like pingpong ball or marble
...pupil created by dropping one small drop of black-colored resin into center of bottom of mold from a toothpick (held upright in stand?)... tap outside bottom of mold to help resin settle in perfect round
...iris created by dropping larger amount of colored resin over black drop (paint brush or toothpick) (tap bottom)
...white of eye created by filling with colored? resin... let cure overnight.
...can sand to even and add coating (1 or more) of epoxy, etc. (see Coating above) to give wet look

(which epoxy referred to here?--1-pt or 2-pt? or quickset 2-pt?)
epoxy glues shouldn't be used for something that will take a lot of stress, or will be sitting in very warm places. A quick sharp blow can snap it off a piece.
....And when heated too much, it gets soft (it will harden again though, when cool). Dotty.
(epoxy tends to soften with heat after baking?... if so, how much heat?)
...as long as your (item) won't be in the sun or anywhere too hot, would probably work.

2-pt epoxy is one of the few glues which can be used with polystyrene foam (Styrofoam, etc.) without dissolving it ...so 5-min clear epoxy is fine, or a white glue, or or residential styrofoam caulking?
....see Covering > Plastics for more on polystyrene foams)

Other 2-pt. epoxies

epoxy putties
To fill cracks in your cured sculpture pieces, try Plumber's Putty, available at most hardware stores.
.. it looks like a bullseye cane ... just slice off a piece and mix together
...once the two parts are mixed, you can press it into your work and let it cure (this happens pretty fast so, don't waste time!)
...once cured, it can be sanded and painted. Donna Kato
(for many other epoxy putties, and putties which mimic what epoxies do, see Sculpting > Epoxy and Other Putties)

for clear, liquid, 2-pt. resins, see Other Materials > Resins
( which are poured into molds... or onto contained surfaces for clear, hard, thick coating)

"CA" glues .....often called superglue

cyanoacrylate glues ("CA" glues) are also called "superglues" or "crazy glues"

They can be used for attaching clay to non-porous materials... and possibly some will bond porous as well.

It's good to use for adhering raw clay to baked clay at least temporarily before baking, so that both parts can be baked without sliding apart.... good to use with a bit of liquid clay alongside too. Dotty
....it can also be used to adhere raw clay to raw clay temporarily for the same reason
...(so even though regular CA glues will degrade at our baking temps, will they hold long enough to allow liquid clay added when raw, for example, to begin to set up)

these glues can be used along with other types of glue in the same area (though generally not on top of each other)
...superglues will quickly grab and hold the pieces together until the other glue can dry (or be heat-cured)
........e.g., white glues, liquid clay, Diluent, etc.)
.....at the same time I apply the Krazy Glue, I apply some liquid clay (some very old TLS that I keep in an open shot glass --it's very thick so that the pieces I put together with it do not slide about. I do not use either the liquid Kato or Fimo for this as both are too liquid). Valerie

CA glues are often used for gluing back in an item which has been used to make an impression in the raw clay
....the clay is then baked (preferably with the piece still on during the baking as long as it can take the heat)
... when clay cools, pop the piece off and put a drop of cyanoacrylate glue on the clay
...then stick the material back on, pressing the parts together for awhile until it has a good bond, then let fully cure. Julia

Buna cording (rubbery cording) can be connected to itself with superglue.
....slice the cord ends at a sharp angle (or some people have success with butt cuts), add a tiny drop of superglue, then join.

. . . when "Super Glue" first came on the market in the late 60"s it was a NASA reject. It was the first type of glue or "connectiong material" that NASA had tried to use to connect the heat shields on to the capsule with. During the extensive tests that were done it was proven the heat weakened the bond between the capsule and the shields, and as a result the shields fell off!! So therefore the conclusion was that (that amount of ) heat weakens the bond.... The dental profession then decided to adopt Super Glue and tried to use it as a repair material for broken porcelain crown and bridges. It didn't work there either because the enzymes in saliva broke up the chemical composition of the glue. Robin
(Either before or after this, superglue was developed/used by doctors to substitute for surgical stitches)
...These glues polymerize on contact with basic substances such as water or blood to form a strong bond.


Cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that cures (forms its strongest bond) almost instantly. The only trigger it requires is the hydroxyl ions in water, which is convenient since virtually any object you might wish to glue will have at least trace amounts of water on its surface
....cyanoacrylate molecules start linking up when they come into contact with water, and they whip around in chains to form a durable plastic mesh... the glue thickens and hardens until the thrashing molecular strands can no longer move.
...may take up to 24 hrs to completely cure

Great Planes has info about superglues... plus a line of superglues, a debonder, etc.:

things to consider when selecting between cyanoacrylate adhesives:
...viscosity ...initial set time ...gap filling ability ...tensile strength (applied stress required to cause failure)
...temperature the glued item can be exposed to without degradation

Cyanoacrylate adhesives are one-part, acrylate adhesives that cure on contact with other surfaces through a reaction with surface moisture.
...they have high strength, and excellent adhesion to a wide variety of substances, especially plastics.
......heating cyanoacrylates to 180-220 F will cause them to soften considerably and lose strength
..... however, nowadays, rubber-toughened cyanoacrylates with additives are now able to be heated up to 250 F
...Lisa's PolyBonder glue is supposed to be able to be heated to 300 F, but to date I haven't found what form of CA glue it might be. I don't know of any other CA that can reach that temp without some degrading. DottyinCA

Most superglues are degraded by heat so it's best, if possible, to do all your gluing after baking is done.
.......that is, except for Poly-Bonder brand superglue (which is "not affected by heat up to 300 degrees")... see below in "Brands" for details
....if you have to rebake something that's been glued, you can try to break it loose, sand the areas a bit, and reglue. Dotty in CA

It's much easier and sturdier to use a CA glue along side liquid clay when used as a glue in some cases
....the superglue will grab and hold the clay pieces together in the oven until everything is heated enough to start curing the liquid clay ....then it doesn't matter if the glue degrades. Dotty in CA
...You'll just need a dot or two here and there, depending on the size of your clay pieces.
...once you put your pieces together there is no repositioning (what about the slower set ones?)... If you make a boo boo, pull the pieces apart right away, clean or scrape the spot where the instant glue is, and start over.

a couple of years after superglue has been used, it can become brittle and the connection will crack or pop off. Niki
....so instead of regular superglue, I now use "Super Glue's "Quick Setting Epoxy" and I just love it! I use it for everything.... It is a two part epoxy, but very easy to use and little waste. Michele
...see also stronger superglues below

STORAGE of superglues
moisture even in the air is a problem for superglues, of course, because water is the catalyst for their curing
... I used to use it a lot for gemstone work, but found that it seemed more upset by water than excursions of temperature... but who knows - often temperature drops will release water from the air as well. Alan
....I've been experimenting with clay as a soap dish. ...I've learned that cured super glue does *not* hold up well with (continuous exposure to) water! Cindy

....CA glues are supposed to have a shelf life of 6-12 months after opening ...some projects will work best with good fresh glue. Jody B.
... .moisture needs to be avoided as much as possible, if you want your CA glue to last, and not to thicken too much
......I had wondered why sometimes a bottle of glue lasted for ages, while another one just like it became way too thick in just a short while. Dotty in CA
...... it is better to get a small bottle, because, with time and with exposure to moist air, the strength of the glue seems to diminish.
e salesperson at Hobby Town told me to store my superglue in the refrigerator after opening because I had the same problem ....she said over time, humidity has deleterious effects on the glue
the inside of fridges tend to be drier than the surrounding atmosphere
......the main thing to remember when using cyanoacrylates which are stored in the fridge - either new or part-used - is to allow them to get to room temperature before opening them. If this procedure isn't followed, warm air may come into contact with the cold glue and moisture (condensation) could be deposited on the glue and reduce its activity. Alan

FILLERS in some superglue formulas ......(add your own):
Rather than buying a gel version of cyanoacrylate, or Zap a Gap,, you can simply thicken your regular superglue with baking soda
...yes, just use good old bicarb to fill the gap, and then put superglue on it. ...that will bridge the gap (and it sets up right away unlike Zap-A-Gap which takes a while)
..When you use baking soda with super glue, is the bond strong??
....Yes it's strong. ....not quite as strong as a close-fitting joint bond would be, but it is pretty strong and does fill in the gap.
...then can be sanded or drilled, etc, I think

ACCELERATOR in some superglue formulas ....(add your own):
....you can speed up the setting time for a superglue by introducing an alkali. ...In your case you could mix 1/4 baking soda with 3/4 water....dissolve well.... wipe a little or spray a little of the solution on your polymer surface... .apply this glue to the (baked liquid clay) label and then press into place (onto baked clay)
..... .if you have the solution strength just right, it should set up the superglue almost instantly.
..........but y
ou can also vary the amount of set up time by weakening your solution with more water (even your own saliva if your mouth is not acidic will work)..
......there are commercial products on the market to do this as well, but this way is just as good. Jim P.
........If I'm using Zap-a-Gap, I use its (purchased) "accelerator" to speed it up and to provide extra strength. . . using accelerator with the glue is a hint given to us by Sarah Shriver when she mentioned metal button backs popping off buttons when air shipped (?). Patty B.

If you do ever get your fingers stuck together (or any other body parts), you can use acetone (fingernail polish remover)... let sit for a minutes, then saw gently between the glued parts with a butter knife (not a sharp or serrated knife!) until they let go . .
...soak in warm soapy water and carefully peel or roll skin apart (do not pull!)...if any remains, gently rub petroleum jelly, vegetable or mineral/baby oil onto skin, then wash again with soap and water...repeated applications may be needed (Perfect Glue 2)
...(if you get some on your clothing), go to Michael's or (a hobby store) to the aisle where they sell the cyanoacrylate glues and look for the CA glue remover (debonder). It's a kind of gel that will dissolve the glue. Might take a few applications, but it does work. Dotty
(...look also below in "Superglue Release" for info on using (cyanoacrylate) CA debonders in many other ways
......for example, as a release, for masking, in cane making, etc.)

You can intentionally cause the bond of acrylate glue to weaken and separate if you heat it at 300 degrees for about 15 min (helpful if that's what you want). Katherine Dewey

I prefer a brush-on superglue ...less mess, and no waste (??).
......Loc-tite makes one that can be found in most craft & hobby stores and Wal Mart... and now Poly-Bonder.

more brushes and applicators.....I've found some teeny, bendable, disposable, brushes and applicators that are great for applying superglue (or liquid clay or Diluent, etc.).. the Microbrush has bristles like a tiny paintbrush, and the Ultrabrush has non-absorbent fuzzy fiber pads (in 3 sizes) ... I got them at my hobby store in pkgs. of 10. Diane B. (see below under "Misc for All Glues" for links to these applicators)
...you can pull a just tiny bit of glue off the Loc-tite brush with a toothpick...this will allow you more control when gluing very small areas. Lisa P.

it's best not to apply the glue directly (will be too much?)...especially for repairs because any excess glue will be visible
......instead, put a drop onto a small piece of aluminium foil and then use a toothpick to apply sparingly to the clay. Anne W
...I'm putting a few drops of the glue onto clean card(stock) (file folder or index card) ...then as an applicator, I use either the tip of a wood skewer or a pointed cut of file folder as an applicator (...because the cardstock isn't very absorbent, it gives more lead time for the gluing process and glue doesn't run where it doesn't belong). Carol

superglues won’t stick to wax.. . . rub a toothpick on a candle to get some wax protection (when using it for transporting the glue). Much easier than gluing your fingers to whatever . . .

skygrazer warns not to ever use superglues on plexiglass since it will etch a white foggy area

brands of superglue

Poly-Bonder ...bonds raw to raw clay, or baked to raw clay
...."PolyBonder is the only instant bonding glue (cyanoacrylate) designed for use at high temperatures
(up to 300ºF)" --which solves a lot of our problems with using superglues during baking of clay!
....brush-on applicator (17oz./5g bottle $3....or pack of 5 bottles $13.50) ....Lisa Pavelka's new superglue ...larger bottles to come
..........love the brush! ... keeps the glue away from fingers, and helps to control the amount used. Dotty
...Lisa showed how to bond raw clay to raw clay so it doesn't slip like the liquid clays tend to do. Dotty
..........could be used together with liquid clay (spots of each)??
... i just pulled a piece out of the oven, my first time using the polybonder.... I was thrilled with the way it held my cured "image transfer decal" onto my curved surface of uncured clay (a diffucult feat).. . . .I did however, have some leak out the side (probably when applying the glue)....it did not leave a shiny surface -- but it turned bright yellow! A surprising development, but I was able to sand off the yellow with some 400 grit sandpape (sanding it off the base clay was no problem, if I had gotten some glue on the image transfer it would have been a little more disturbing though)...My conclusion at this point it that I will continue using the glue, but be more careful when applying it. Gail in Florida

...the bottles are going through a redesign right now that should hopefully correct some of the tipping over issues many have experienced
......you can make a little clay stand to keep the bottle from tipping. Trina ... or just glue it to a rigid sheet of something (even a clay disk)
......you could use poster tac (Blue Tac, etc.) to hold the bottle down. Mary
...It is only designed to be used in tiny portions, in small areas
...using too much PolyBonder (or any CA glue) can also overflow, and leave shiny spots, just like any other CA glue. Michelle
.......my brush went off the area under the join, and the glue turned brown during baking (Polybonder?). Nancy

Boston Clayworks sells superglue in special tube
...nozzle won't clog up, ooze, or stick to the cap because glue is "sucked back" into the tube... large (10g)

Sure-Hold (...aka Plastic Surgery)
...specifically formulated to bond plastics more securely than other instant glues or gels ("bites" into plastic materials)
...tube sucks glue back inside, so glue lasts longer and doesn't dry out easily
...comes in regular thin superglue, and in thicker gel form
http://www.polymerclayprojects.com/new_page_4.htm (thin form ...large, 10 gram tubes ...good price)
http://www.surehold.com/adhesives.asp (also carries gel form, "Plastic Surgery Super Gel"... only in 3 g tubes)

Rhino Glue
....high strength, viscous superglue (can add baking soda for even more thickness for patching, etc.)
... bonds to most anything, including most porous items (except paper), and makes a good wood glue (no clamping or foaming)
... bonds esp. quickly to PVC (but doesn't bond well to polyethelene)
..."will not dry out in bottle after opening"....comes with long slender tips for precise applications
...waterproof, weatherproof, and completely resistant to heat or cold (indoor, outdoor usage) ...can use in dishwasher, microwave
...excellent shear strength

Pro CA
...Pro Thin CA (also known as CA).. the instant variety ..a water-thin instant glue, requires a joint with no gap... will cure within a few sec's
...Pro CA+ is also known as medium or gap filling CA....cures slower than thin CA...curing time without accelerator is 20-30 sec
...Pro CA- or thick CA is used when extra time is needed for positioning... great gap filler, extra strength... curing time about 1-2 min
...Pro CA Gel is the version that has the consistency of hair gel, and has the longest cure time

.....the big difference between the Zap-A-Gapsand regular superglue is that all its versions have a 'filler' in them (... reg. thin superglues require a near-perfect fit betw. the 2 parts)... other superglues have a regular version and gel versions with filler
...available at hobby shops for model railroading, WalMart (models section only, not craft area), or by mail order from micromark.com and others
--Quick Cure Zap (1-5 sec)
--Mid Cure Zap-A-Gap (20 sec)
--Slow Cure Slo-Zap (90 sec)
......also Zap Kicker accelerator and Z=7 debonder

Loctite works well

"When gluing polymer clay we suggest cyanoacrylate gels (e.g. Quik-Tite® or Super Glue Gel®). . ." (...from Polyform)

Hot Stuff works well, but a glue that is even better in holding power is called Hot Stuff: SuperT
.... I did an experiment with Zap and Hot Stuff, and HS could not be taken apart, no matter how hard I tried to break the seal...even trying to wedge a knife ...finally broke off the pinback. Dianne C.
...the railroad hobby store carries 'Spec-T' cyanoacrylate glues
....... you can get gap filling and thicker versions there for reasonable prices. It works very well with polymer. the formula used in Spec-T glues is real winner. It's stronger than zap-a-gap. Meredith

Poly-Zap, Plasti-Zap and Flex-Zap (other CA glues carried by "Micro-Mark," 800-225-1066

I use a slow-cure superglue (Pik Stik) between the place where the two parts will join
.... I also "rough up" a little spot of each place to be joined with a pin.... Then when I "moosh" them together the bond is even stronger

I have found a really good glue....gap filling like zap~a~gap...it is called Insta~cure+
.......and there is also a slow version of Insta~cure. ...haven't had any problems with it so far and I believe it is cheaper than Zap! I found it at The Great Train Store.

Perfect Glue 2 ...... for porous and non-porous materials
a cyanoacrylate, but "stronger bond than "common superglues"...(by Liquid Nails)
...parts must be close-fitting (areas smaller than 1" square--otherwise use Perfect Glue 1) ...narrow applicator tip
works best: Porcelain, Ceramic, China, Glass ...Plastics**, PVC & ABS (black plastic for water pipes, etc)... Fiberglass
neoprene, nylon,
also works on: metals ..stone, brick, concrete, marble
Fabric (canvas, carpeting, upholstery), leather ...rubber... cardboard, wood
NOT recommended on: polyethylene or polypropylene plastics**, Teflon®.... no direct contact with food, or use underwater.
...for slick surfaces of plastics, metals, and non-porous surfaces, sand lightly with 200 grit or finer for best results.
...for fabrics (test, may discolor)... apply thin bead of glue 1/4" from edge, press together smoothing out surfaces... 30 min. before light use
Apply 1 drop (or thin bead) to one surface, press surfaces together, and hold for approximately 30 seconds... do not allow parts to shift...
set for few minutes...can wipe away any excess with acetone after that time
... don't wear any glued jewelry for 2 hrs ...full cure strength in 12-24 hrs. (esp. if will be stressed)
....clean nozzle, etc., with acetone (but disallows further bonding)
.........UNDER CONSTRUCTION ........
There is a new, three glue, series by Liquid Nails
"ALL are waterproof, flexible, and won't stick to skin"
Perfect Glue 1 is predominately for bonding wood, paper, fabric, rubber, leather, vinyl and styrofoam with a permanent waterproof bond (by Liquid Nails) http://www.perfectglue.com
Perfect Glue 3 (4-min set time, high strength, epoxy) for metal, masonry, concrete and stone (by Liquid Nails) http://www.perfectglue.com .
....according to their chart, the epoxy would work best joining metal plastic.
Each package has a surface to surface matching system which helps you select the appropriate glue.

I bought some really expensive cyanoacrylate glue called Fix Tech. The person I bought it from said the reason cyanoacrylate glues break down is because most cyanoacrylate glues have additives in it that cause them the break down when heated (true??)
.... supposedly, Fix Tech doesn't have the additives so it's not supposed to be degraded by heat.... I'm not sure if this is true because I usually glue my pinbacks on then put a piece of clay over it and bake it again
... he also said that would allow the top to be left off and it wouldn't harden, but I found that wasn't true. Susan

??? Are tubes of superglue gel from the drug store, pretty much the same as Zap-a-Gap and other superglues with filler??

You can also use brush-on fingernail glue for acrylic fingernails. . . .???? (a CA glue?)

Misc. & "Cements" & acrylic gel medium... (or don't know type of glue)

nowwhatzine recommends using clear Duco cement (or similar cement-type glue like modeler's cement) for attaching baked clay to a wood popscicle stick for making a figure (head is popped off after baking, and glued on)

The best I've found for gluing metal pinbacks on polymer clay is 547 Cement. Christy

The ideal glue for attaching polymer clay to sanded fiberglass (and maybe other surfaces) may be 3M's Scotch-seal PA Sealant # 560, a glue used in the RV industry and strong enough to withstand outdoor exposure and possible expansion.... Zap-a-gap was used to hold the pieces on while they dried.

acrylic gel medium (such as the one made by Liquitex or Golden) can be used as an adhesive ("for collage and mixed media projects, or sculptural effects and high-peak consistency. Dries clear to translucent depending upon thickness, with very low shrinkage. Flexible, non-yellowing, and water-resistant when dry
(...this can also be added to acrylic paints to extend them, and to increase transparency and brilliance --see Paints > Acrylic Gel Mediums for more)

......see more glues below in "Other Glues and Fillers"

"Hot Glue & hot glues for polymer"

If you get "spider webs" of hot glue, they say they'll disappear if you use a hot blow dryer on them....never tried it. Aunt Diane

ordinary hot glue:
...affixing polymer bits to candles . . . my friend used to decorate wedding candles for people and all she would ever use was hot glue. (apparently, the heat from the glue softens the wax a bit and adds to the bond.) Michelle

Remember there's a difference between a high temperature glue gun and a "low temp" glue gun.... I believe that nowadays most of the glue sticks for glue guns say "hi-low" temp and will work with either type gun
...If you're burning yourself on any of the glues, you might want to change to low temp gun ... or have you tried the rubber fingertips sold in office supply stores for giving a grip when dealing with papers and paper currency?
...Or what about creating your own custom fingertip protectors with a bit of 2-part silicone putty ?? By making your own, you could make them fit tightly, be smooth, and be as long or short, or thick or thin, as you wanted (... for example, you could make the finger part thin, but have a thicker area on the end for wherever you want, or usually get burned when using a glue gun)
...these protectors could also work for already-burned fingers too while using more glue (or possibly to avoid allergic reations especially when doing gross motor things with the clay like Skinner blends, conditioning, etc.).
...(for use with glue guns, I think most silicones that clayers use for making molds are heat resistant up to about 600 degrees, so that should do the job, and I'm assuming that silicone would release the glue easily but this is all just a guess.) Diane B.

hot glue "expands and contracts with atmospheric conditions, heat and cold, causing problems".

At the last SCD seminar, FPC Corporation (glue company), was set up in the manufacturer's showcase. I asked the lady behind the table if they had anything that worked well with polymer clay. She told me that they have a new hot glue that works with it. Well, after the seminar I was able to try some of the hot glue. I was VERY skeptical, having had very bad results using hot glue with poly clay. But, I also love to try new things.... so I tried it on a scrap piece of baked clay with a pin back..... after it cooled, I tried everything to pull that pin back off... then gave it to my husband to try.... IT WOULNT COME OFF!!! I am so excited about this!! (can ya tell?!) I glue thousands of pin backs on every year. Up until now I have only used E6000. Which is a great glue, but when you do that many pins, it wears on the brain cells a little %o) (Bad fumes!) FPC Corporation, 355 Hollow Hill Dr, Wauconda, IL 60084, Phone # 847-487-4583e-mail: glueguns@aol.com, www.fpccorp.thomasregister.comI could not find the clay # listed on their web site, but in the catalog it's: 735R510 Reg hi-temp, amber honey glue sticks. When I called I spoke with Linda Walter. They are available in 4" and 10" sticks. If you call or e-mail them, tell them that it's used for polymer clay. Stacey
-----HOWEVER: I also regretfully have to let you know that the industrial hot glue (for poly clay) that I raved about so much before, pops right off after 3-4 months. I was sooo disappointed!!! I am very glad that I tested it again before I took my pins to the craft show! So I figured I better let everyone know. Stacey



...see Liquid Sculpey page for probably the best glue of all to use with polymer clay...

Gorilla Glue http://www.gorillaglue.com/theglue
...waterproof, incredibly strong .... holds to anything,I mean anything (wood, stone, metal, ceramics, cement, terra cotta, styrofoam, etc.)
...however, the glue swells to about 3 times its applied size... yellowish in color after curing (not clear)
......so don't apply it too thickly, and do wipe off excess that's extruded before it cures because it's very difficult to remove later from those areas
....definitely wear gloves as it is difficult to get off your hands even with lava soap or orange clean. Stephanie
....it's activated by water
....stands up to heat so is good with polymer clay because you can glue two pieces together, then rebake (unlike regular super glue)
... longer dry time than superglue, so you can move the pieces you are glueing to get them just right. Kathi
.....Gorilla glue is like magic in a bottle for the right projects - it is excellent with wood, very little is needed.
.....adhesion is almost incomparable and can do the outside, all year round, thing - it's simply amazing.
.....terra cotta is porous so you will have to work with a very waterproof product like Gorilla, Platinum, or E6000 . Stephanie
.....We actually glued two halves of a large cement birdbath together using it. It's holding great... no signs of wear or tear so far. Dotty
I glue metal to baked clay (barrettes) with one of the polyurethane glues. Right now I'm using Elmer's ProBond polyurethane Ultimate Glue. ...Gorilla glue is another brand with the same properties.
...These glues expand a bit when they cure, and they take 24 hours to fully cure. Read the directions as it says there is a bit of moisture required.
... I apply the glue to the baked clay, and mist the finding with water before applying it. Be consistent but sparing with the glue as it will foam up slightly. ...I check them after an hour and if there is more glue present at the edges of the finding than I want, I will wipe it away with a cotton swab.
Patti K.

I have been using Loctite's Stick N Seal ....a contact clear gel that gives time to work
.... let it sit 5 minutes before joining the two surfaces... it is waterproof, and I hope permanent. Jacqui

Titebond Cold Press Veneer Glue? Jim

The glue that I use to glue pieces of (clay) together, and to glue cured pieces to pin backs, is Elmer's ProBond Household Cement. It comes in a tube, doesn't smell any worse than varnish or fingernail polish remover, and works *really really* well. I haven't had any trouble with it for bonding, strength, or longevity. Of course, I've only been using it for three - four years. Maybe it will start reacting, but I don't think, after this amount of time, it will. Deirdre
.... I use Testors Instant Plastic Cement that seems to work really well for me.
.... <what’s the best glue for repairing broken sculptures?>
........Elise Winters introduced me to PVC Cement, (a glue made for bonding pvc piping) . . . this cement is very good for bonding and can withstand the heat if rebaking is necessary. I know Elise has had great success with it and Fimo. I've had similar success with it and Premo. Katherine Dewey

Liquids like Future and Varathane can also act as glues

Perfect Paper Adhesive (PPA) is an adhesive similar to Sobo or Tacky Glue but formulated differently (comes in a squeeze bottle)
...it can be used as a finish, sealer and/or adhesive ...and comes in gloss or matte.
...I like Perfect Paper Adhesive (PPA) because it will keep paper flexible in a collage, yet protect it from UV, yellowing, and shrinkage.
...I found when putting pressed flowers on some vases last year that it works equally well on clay....actually gives the same protection to the clay and adheres the surface embellishments better than Varathene or Future. … Dianne
...Yup, it will work with stamps and stickers and I use it with cardstock

I use a different type of adhesive (PVA bookbinding glue) with "davey board" (the thickest of 'cardboard') though when making a book
... I like to saturate items with it for collage work, and to get texture from papers, cardstock
...I like to use it over the top of a collage surface as the sealer too.
available at http://www.usartquest.com/products/index.html

Acrylic finishes (polyurethanes like Varathane, or Future, etc.) and "acrylic mediums" are also adhesive, as well as being sealers
Polyform also recommends "dimensional clear adhesives" like Diamond Glaze®, Aleene’s Paper Glaze®, which are like thick clear sealers (for more on all these types, see Finishes)

Ah, That's Great Tape
Perfect Paper Adhesive
Foil It
Duo Embellishing Adhesive
Gum Arabic

......available at http://www.usartquest.com/products/index.html

....for more on glues made especially for paper,cardstock,etc, see Cards > Greeting Cards & Scrapbooking

Glue Dots® work well for attaching clay pieces to cards and scrapbook pages

Dar uses the "silk" adhesive tape on her (book-type) blade holders as an outer spine, overlapping front and back
...she says it accepts paint and Future well

copper tape (adhesive-backed)
....like all copper used for decorative purposes, copper tape will acquire a "patina" over time
....you can keep copper shiny and prevent it from blackening by the simple technique of sealing the copper with a sealer that's impervious to moisture and oils
.......like common shellac, or Fimo's varnish which requires mineral spirits to clean your brushes... apply several coats and then re-apply periodically if the copper is used a lot.
...available at Hobby Lobby and all stained glass stores (and hardware stores?...or a different kind?). Patty B.
...There is also a silver tape that will also darken with age, and can be sealed the same way as the copper.
...In fact, there are quite a few different types and widths of adhesive backed tape to use with stained glass which can be used for jewelry construction too. ..one has a lovely scalloped edge. Patty B.

Nancy Ward: (my) Book - Complete Guide To Glues and Adhesives. Krause is publishing; schedule for September (2000) release.
...G-S Cement is a thin cement - flammable, but conforms to ASTM-D 4236. Has practically no odor and doesn't stick your fingers together. Plain old rubbing alcohol removes spills and excess. Company told me a designer is using it successfully with clay......but they don't have her name. Another advantage - the tube has a teeny, tiny applicator tip so you have no problems getting cement into teeny, tiny spots.
...I'm also having good results with RooContact (non-toxic and water-based!). Company is doing some testing to determine what they long-term results will be.
....I tested PVC Cement - think I lost a few brain cells with that vile smelling stuff. Am not including it in the book.....
My search for the 'ultimate' adhesive for polymer clay has been interesting, to say the least! I'll accept any and all suggestions - from anyone!

you can also use fabric paints as a glue to attach baked cane slices onto clothing, or other fabric
..... I got so excited about the possibilities with this! ...imagine sweatshirts, bags, hats, decorative pillows, socks, canvas tennis shoes, tote bags, gift wrap ribbons, vests, etc. (Marie Segal told us at Ravensdale)

Can you foil wrap and solder around polymer clay? Gail
...I've wire-wrapped baked clay and then soldered the wire together.... for some pieces, I've soldered the wires together into a sort of cage set into grooves around the bodies. I did all the soldering at the back of the pieces - I've learned that of course the clay will brown if the iron is held near it for too long! Hence all the joins at the back out of sight, just in case... for added security, I also applied 5 minute epoxy over the soldered joints (and the soldered-on suspension loop)... It seems to work quite well.
......however, if one were to slip a small sheet of aluminium foil under the wire to be soldered and over the clay - at least some of the radiant and conducted heat would be sunk away from the clay - well worth a try.... thanks for the idea.
.......I don't see why one can't use copper, brass or silver foil instead of wire - pewter would probably melt rather than solder well unless one had plenty of practice working with it of course. ...Note though that most 'gold and silver' leaf and foil available to crafters is actually anodised aluminium which is notoriously hard to solder - better to use superglue for them. Alan (many foils are plastic too)
(...see more on using wire in Wire)

MISC. (re all glues)

Kato Polyclay has very smooth and slightly shiney finish, so glues may not stick to it as well
....you either have to sand a baked piece, or rub it down with acetone before either varnishing or gluing (for Kato Polyclay). If you are occasionally running into that problem with other clay brands, I'd try the same approach. Cassy

I found some teeny, bendable, disposable, brushes and applicators that are great for applying glues (or liquid clay or Diluent, Pearl Ex,etc.).. the Microbrush has bristles like a tiny paintbrush (1/16" diameter brush head, 1/4" long bristles), and the Ultrabrush has non-absorbent fuzzy fiber pads (in 3 sizes... 3/64", 5/64", and 7/64" diameter) ... I got them at my hobby store .... 4" long ...available in packs of 10 or as a set of 40...Diane B. (for more application ideas, see Glues > Superglues)
http://www.microbrush.com/products.asp?area=3&lang=13&categNum=11&market=4 (click on each, then hover over pics)
...Lee Valley also carries them (lifted directly from the dentistry business) ...let you apply tiny amounts of oil, paint, glue, stain, etc., very accurately and controllably... something wrong with website?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45857&cat=1,250,43298 (under Woodworking, Projects?)
BUY, but can't see well:
...see more on applicators like syringes and eyedroppers in Liquid Sculpey and Inks

I rub a bit of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) around the rim of my paint and glue containers to keep them from sticking and getting crusty (I also do this for my jar of Flecto). Jeanette

to attach baked polymer to a paper for scrapbooking, you have to use acid free glue (best I've found is Glue Dots or Red line Tacky Tape. Laurie D
(. . .the sculpey.com website says that “Polyform’s chemists have been conducting tests on the clay for quite some time. All tests indicate that baked Premo! Sculpey and Sculpey III are acid free” and lignin free so it should be fine to use in fine scrapbooking, etc.... if properly and completely cured. . . http://www.sculpey.com/Scrapbook101.htm
...(for more info on scrapbooking, etc., see Cards > Greeting Cards & Scrapbooking)

(there are various mediums that can be used for " decoupage ")
...most but not all decoupaging mediums are acrylic-based, dry clear, and act as both an adhesive and a sealer
....any liquid acrylic medium will work if it's sticky when wet, and also dries clear
....some of the mediums which can work for decoupaging are:
(permanent ) white glues like Elmer's GlueAll (thinned with water) ...artists' acrylic "mediums" ...acrylic-based craft "varnishes" ... clear acrylic wood finishes (like Varathane)
....other clear-drying or clear-curing mediums can be used for "encasing" paper or other items too:
.......liquid polymer clays (Kato and Fimo brands are clearer than Liquid Sculpey)
Lynne' lesson on using liquid clay as a "decoupage" medium to make a faux cloisonne... used cloisonne-patterned Japanese paper, liquid clay and a thin sheet of translucent clay
...clear embossing powders (UTEE)
...lesson on applying clear embossing ink from a pad--or probably just plain glycerin (onto an unglazed tile, in this case) then applying clear embossing powder over it and melting the powder (4 mins at 350)... an image on tracing paper is then embedded into the melty embossing powder, and cooled ...another layer of clear embossing powder is then melted on top of the image
...(here they use waterproof inks, colored in with chalks, but could probably just use a toner-based photocopy, or an inkjet print with acrylic srpay on both sides, etc?)
(more on "decoupage" above under Transfer Papers > Decals, in Mixing Media > Paper, and in Glues > Decoupage for more traditional decoupage )
...2-pt resins (like Envirotex Lite, an epoxy resin) ....and others

....the main differences between these mediums are things like:
how thin or thick they are, how waterproof they are (as opposed to water resistant), how UV-resistant they are, whether they're acid-free, how scraatch-resistant, and definitely how expensive they are
...the traditional way has generally been using a thinned white glue (a water-resistant one, not "washable school" glue)
...... Mod Podge is the most well-known brand of a thinned white glue sold especially for decoupaging, but there are other brands too:
.........actually, I would highly recommend not using ModPodge. It can stay or become sticky over time. Of all the decoupage glues on the market, it is the most unstable and has a tendency to change properties when in extreme heat or cold. .... And if this item is to be hand washed, I would definitely stay away from it.
........Royal Coat (Plaid's other decoupage medium) is the one I like... it dries to a much harder finish, and stays that way). rainee
...........comes in 3 colors (white dries clear, sepia will antique a bit, and pearl.... gloss and matte)
Aleene's Instant Decoupage finish is another good one... dries to a nice hard finish.
.......(but) ModPodge's sister product Sparkle Podge is great! ... wonderful for adding a subtle irridescent sparkle to ornaments or even snow and water on paintings ...dries to a nice hard finish... can be added as a final coat. rainee
.......one example of an acid-free "decoupage gel" is Beacon's Liquid Laminate (though some people report that can get sticky too)
.......clear acrylic finishes for wood, etc., also work well (hardware store)
Basic Technique for decoupage
.... first adhere the image (usually on paper) or 3-D object to the surface of your choice with the medium you choose (in other words, "glue" it down, and work out any bubbles)
... the second step is to "seal" it on top with more of the same medium (or make the final layer a more expensive type)
....continue adding layers on top (or overlap with more images, etc, and seal those in) till you have the final look and smoothness you want
...many surfaces can be decoupaged
wood, painted surfaces, glass, metal, ceramic tile, terra cotta, canvas, paper, polymer clay, even fabric when done right, etc.
...also, freestanding "decals" can be made from images to put onto surfaces... in those cases, an image from an inkjet print or photocopier or a magazine page, etc., is first "transferred" off its paper backing, then placed onto the desired surface with a clear medium (...there are various methods, special papers, etc., for doing it that way though, and they're generally more involved than doing a traditional decoupage)...some of those the regular decoupage mediums will actually transfer the ink off an image as well..
....on various surfaces ... many decoupage projects
...on glass (using "liquid laminate" --sealer)
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_kits/article/0,2019,DIY_13787_2273994,00.html (plate)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399666,00.html (votives, vases)
...on fabric (using Aleene's Paper Napkin Applique Glue)
making transfers, using acrylic medium

Loctite's glue selector (for various surfaces)

There are many types of glues ... now and since antiquity . . . but most glue development has been in the last 100 years.
..starch based adhesives (paste?) have been used for thousands of years. Starch on its own has no adhesive qualities. It must be boiled in water, which makes the starch granules swell, to become gelatinous, which creates its adhesive quality. Starch is used as a binder in the production of paper. It is the use of a starch coating that controls ink penetration when printing. Cheaper papers do not use as much starch, and this is why your elbows get black when you are leaning over your morning paper.
...animal glues ...this type of glue has mostly been replaced with synthetic PVAs in the domestic market... But some glues still use a combination of animal or fish bone and PVAs.

some BONDING techniques

clay to clay

There are many ways to bond two parts together with polymer clay ... both with and without "glues."

(On baked clay surfaces, no matter what glue you use, or what you're gluing it to, be sure to wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol before applying glue to get rid of any oils or residue on the surface. Irene)

For raw clay to raw clay, simply press the pieces together well --BUT only *as long as there is sufficient contact between the two pieces* and not too much stress pulling them apart
......... (think of the join between an arm and a shoulder in a sculpt, e.g.... the top of the arm can simply be pressed to the body as long as most of its length is positioned/pressed to the body)
...if your particular design calls for less contact, then you'll need to do one of several things when joining the raw parts:
........e.g., make the top of an arm convex, and the insertion area concave to increase the connected area ...or create a concave groove, etc.
.......use a connector-armature and/or a "glue", or use a mechanical hold (see below)

For raw to raw, or raw to baked, simply allowing the two areas to sit, pressed together, overnight or for a while (even without glue) will allow them to meld together more when they're baked
....if adding raw to baked, the plasticizers from the raw clay will leach back into the baked clay over that time ...this will allow the plasticizer to harden as one continuous area across the join
and make it stronger

Join baked or raw parts with liquid clay or with Diluent-Softener (which will make a strong bond)
.....apply to both surfaces, let sit for awhile to tack up and sink in... then join
...the joined parts may still have to be propped together or clamped together while baking when using non-tacky materials like liquid clay , depending on the angle, etc
.........or can use a bit of superglue can be used in little bits-- in and around, but not on top of, the liquid clay or Diluent, etc-- to hold the pieces together while they're baking)
...polymerclayfuan uses Vaseline rubbed or painted onto the baked clay then wiped off... followed by a small amount of raw clay (rubbed?) on the area, to make it sticky enough to add new raw clay

when joining raw to baked, the technique or glue you use will have to be stronger
....or you can use a preinserted connector-armature sticking out of the baked piece to help hold the raw one on (see just below)
... or you can use lots of clay to smooth over the join area ....roughing up one of the surfaces can help in some situations too
however, mica clays (pearl, gold & other metallics) don't bond terribly well if you try to add raw to previously baked --probably the presence of the mica makes the surface of the baked clay a little less 'keyable' to newly applied pieces of clay (so you might want to use an armature for those, or let sit together for awhile, etc.). Alan

--for any combination of raw and/or baked, it's great to use an connector-armature which can be inserted into both parts
....for example, a short bit of toothpick, wire, floral taped wire (poss. with a bit of dried white glue), wire mesh, piece of cardstock, scrunched aluminum foil, e.g.
....put a bit of liquid clay (translucent) Diluent-Softener, or superglue, (or even a "vinyl" white glue for attaching jewels to fabric like GemTac) onto the ends of the connective armature before inserting
.......or try using a plastic coated wire like telephone wire as a "connector" between the parts ... it's plastic coating actually bonds with polymer clay
...a hole or slot will need to be drilled into any baked clay to accept the connectors (can drill by hand with a bit, etc)
[see much more on joining or rejoining two baked or raw clay parts in Armatures-Permanent > Wire and Other Materials ]

For attaching baked clay to baked clay (without rebaking):
..... superglue can work BUT the parts must match exactly for a really good bond (...you can also try a form of superglue with a "filler" in it if they don't match exactly, but it can still be iffy --especially depending on how much stress the parts will get later, the brand of superglue and technique used to apply it, etc.).
..........(however, superglues WILL degrade if baked at our baking temps --except for Lisa Pavelka's Polybonder superglue which was developed especiallly to stand up to temps of 300 degrees)
...the strongest glue bond for baked to baked clay is probably a 2-part epoxy glue
The following glues wont' be as strong but may be sufficient for lighter-weight things, or those where the bond won't receive much stress:
..a silicone-type glue like E-6000 can work, especially if it's applied correctly --which most people don't know about --see info above under E-6000 .....(it's usually fine for joining baked clay bits to non-clay surfaces though)...but won't be quite as strong
...a strong permanent white glue like Wellbond, etc. (or perhaps a white glue intended for adding "jewels" to fabric) ...white glues vary in strength though (see above under White Glues)

Or, just create a mechanical_hold between the parts by having one bit wrap around another part in some way to "hold onto" or surround it (no glue or armature necessary)
.......or maybe a piece of clothing or other accessory can act as a wrapping or connector to give a mechanical hold

(Can always do two or more of the above techniques together)

clay to metal surfaces ... pinbacks, wire, etc.

One good way to glue a metal pinback to the back of a pin (first suggested by Dotty?) is to first open then pinback
...set its back bar in place
with a superglue to hold it where you want for the moment
...then prepare a rectangle of clay (stamp or otherwise embellish it if you want) that will be large enough to go over the bar and extend onto surrounding clay
...press the clay rectangle in place over the bar ....this embeds the bar between the clay back and the clay rectangle
......you can also add superglue or liquid clay before pressing on
..This way makes a *very* secure bond, so be sure you get the position right before you bake it. This is difficult to remove. Bar
...I use something to push down around the sides of the piece of clay to mush it down a little into the liquid clay and to help the bond get started.
.....it's best to let this sit for awhile so that the liquid clay can start to react and seep (?) into the clay that it's on and start the bon (Marie Segal recommends letting this sit for 24 hours, but I've done it in much less than that)
...I think you get a better bond if you do the liquid clay on raw clay, and only baked it once....but I've done it successfully with the back of the pin being already cured. lori
...I now have a hard plastic stamp with my name on it, and I stamp that on the piece I add as a signature.
.......sometimes I also rub acrylic paint on the backed piece so that the letter show up more. Dotty

This can then be baked (pin face down).
......however, since the clay will soften slightly while hot, IF the pin face is dimensional, you can either place it on a small cloud of polyester stuffing or batting
.....or lay it face down on a piece of matt board, etc., with a hole cut out for the dimensional part to hang through
.... or bake the clay pin first, and add the clasp afterwards. DB

Also worth mentioning is that metal backs of pins and barettes often have a very light oil coating on them leftover from the machining process, which can interfere with the glue, but a quick swipe with rubbing alcohol will remove it. Irene NC
Do remember to rough up or rough sand both the metal as well as the clay
...Another trick I learned is to take a needle tool and make a few holes here and there in the raw or baked clay along the places the glue will be (be careful doing this however, as it's easy to poke clear through). The glue will seep into the holes and give the items a better grip... make the hole about halfway through. Dotty

I have had great luck with "Weldbond" (white glue) for small and large items. In fact one of my pins accidentally went throught the 'wash and dryer' and came out fine. I have also found that it works best if it is actually 'baked' onto the piece.
.....For this reason I always apply a liberal amount of 'Weldbond' and then the 'metal finding' and then 'bake'. Weldbond goes on 'white' but turns 'clear'. Marie Redmond (what type of glue is this?)

Gem Tac "white glue" is a little thicker than Sobo, so it's what I generally use when I am coating surfaces like glass or metal such as wire armatures (you can just insert the wire in the opening in the tip and it pulls out with a thin coating.) Sara Jane

You can also attach pin backs with a glue called E-6000 or Goop after baking. Clean the area with alcohol, and sand both surfaces lightly, then glue
.....the only problem with E-6000 occurs in extreme heat (like a hot day in Florida, sitting in the sun over hours) --it can loosen.

(silicone based?) ....I've been pleased with Polyseamseal Tub & Tile Adhesive Caulk which is sold at Home Depot for most PC gluing
.... It takes 24 hours to dry (fully cure?)... but it is not volatile, it cleans up with soap and water and it drys clear.
I've even baked pins after I've used it to glue on pinbacks and the bond seems to remain a strong as it was before baking.
......I think cleaning metal by mechanical or chemical means before joining always improves the bond. (alcohol, sandpaper)


SUPERGLUE SOLVENTS (also used as a release)
Repel Gel & other CA debonders, etc.

KatoPolyclay's Repel Gel . . a very thick gel
prevents polymer clay from sticking to itself while baking
...used when removability is desired after baking ... or even as a release (on rubberstamps, molds, etc.) when no curing involved
...can be used on raw clay or baked clay
... water soluble ....rinses off with water

Polymer Clay Your Way ...website to come ... rblee1@sbcglobal.net
... 3/4 oz =$2.40
D&J Hobby ....$1.75 (size?)... http://tinyurl.com/47bo9... product # VAI14110
Prairiecraft http://tinyurl.com/6f7xr ......3/4 oz =$3.00
Lynda's Artistic Haven http://www.lyndasartistichaven.com/pcsupplies.html ....$2.99

This seems to be the same thing? as "cycanoacrylate debonder" which can be purchase in hobby stores, etc.
... other brands are Pro CA Debonder and Great Planes CA Debonder
......I went to the railroad hobby store here and got a locally made product called Un-Cure, which is a CA remover. Same thing, I'm sure. Carla wwytch
...."apply this directly to the CA, and allow a few minutes to penetrate the CA then wipe of with a paper towel" (instructions for stuck-together fingers).
....Go to Michael's? or (a hobby store) to the aisle where they sell the cyanoacrylate glues (superglues) and look for the CA glue remover. It's a kind of gel that will dissolve the glue.

A little of this thick stuff goes a long way. kranmom

(Repel Gel worked great on Premo and Fimo clays too, as well as Kato Polyclay). kranmom

Sometimes it doesn't release the two parts as easily as desired ....
...one of the tips that Donna gave me when I was having problems getting the lid off after baking was to let it cool slightly, and then roll it on a hard surface (or in your hands if the lid is embellished) to loosen it. Trina
... This time I used a lot of RG on the pen as well as on the cover ...cured it, and rolled the pen while it was warm; the cover came right off (the tricky part was getting the cap to stick together with RP on it!). Elaine

We may discover many more nifty uses for this stuff, but a few of those things might be:
....release ...for creating vessels over removable forms (large or rock vessels), and vessel lids while on their vessels, caps on pens, etc.
........clothing release (e.g., forming a shoe over a polymer shoe form, then removing the shoe)
........I also used it when I baked my frog at R'dale to make sure that the mouth didn't bake closed. jenni-frog
.........used as regular release for molds and stamps (need to be cleaned-rinsed? before using again) ... also two-part molds
.......canes & layers ....can be painted on various layers of canes to keep them from bonding together during curing (need a water soak to separate the parts?)
...we'll probably come up with lots of ways of using this effect, but more possibilities for caning are:
.............to create holes or filigree effects
.............in cane cradles which might hold canes in shape while cutting slices (without distortion)
.............creating odd shaped canes?
.............creating face or other canes so different outer areas like hair could be added?
...masking for powders or paints/inks or just about anything, etc. ...(but not for liquid clay?)
...(see also Masquepen fluid in Cutters > Stencils,Masking. . . .which can be used as a for masking on raw clay --can bake or not)
...Judy Belcher makes mudcloth beads by applying lines of RepelGel with a small brush to a baked white bead, dabbing on brown then black alcohol inks and letting dry... then scrubbing off the ink on top of the Repel Get with wwater and a stiff brush

When I make a matchbox amulet or a matchbox evening bag, I coat only the outside of the matchbox (not the inside drawer) with Repel Gel . After covering it with clay and baking, I use a small knife to loosen the paper box, then tug it out with a pair of jewelry pliers (before I found how easy the Repel Gel made this, I had to soak the piece then dig and pull and scrap the inside of the clay box to get the paper box out... much easier with the Repel Gel). DottyinCA

(....for info and lessons on making two-part molds with silicone putty --or with polymer clay--using Repel Gel between the two parts of the mold, see Molds > Two-Part)

Unfortunately, the Repel Gel does not work with (any?) liquid clays because Kato (liquid clay) penetrates into the Repel Gel --even when it is dry
... (this is unlike how Repel Gel behaves with raw clay, where the Repel Gel will just lay on top of the surface and not penetrate). Tony A.

I've used spray Armorall but it even worked when I used it between raw PC and baked PC (regular old tan Sculpey)... the two layers separated easily after baking.


Various clay things can be sewn on, or sewn together ...by hand, or by machine:

...thin sheets of baked clay
...baked liquid clay films
...fabric which has been impregnated with translucent clay or liquid clay, or white glue

(see all the rest on this in Misc. > Sewing)



(see also Liquid Sculpey, Mixing Media for more on stamps,stickers, ClayGuns for Air Pen..…)





acrylic mediums ...& gels & pastes
(acrylic gel mediums, gel mediums, polymer mediums, etc.)

from Golden http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medsadds/gels/geldiff.php
With so many products of which to be aware, it does become quite a task to keep them all straight. However, there are a few general distinctions that once remembered make the whole group of gels and mediums seem much less difficult to understand.
...The main property that differentiates a majority of products is viscosity - that is, how thick or thin a product is. This is what actually separates the gels from the mediums. The mediums are the thinner products, while the gels are thicker, having higher viscosities. The mediums are thin enough to be pourable, while the gels are not.
...The second key property is reflectance or sheen. ....may feel very similar in consistency, but will dry with different sheens.
gels and modeling pastes
can be thought of as colorless paints, as they are composed of similar polymers as are the acrylic paints. They may be considered the "glue" or binder that dry to form continuous, durable films. They are made of 100% acrylic polymers which have proven to have excellent flexibility and chemical, water and ultraviolet radiation resistance. Pastes contain Marble Dust or Diatomatious Earth, clays or other fillers resulting in a white or clay-tone finish. Different pastes have been formulated to contain specific properties. See each description for further information.

acrylic mediums:
... put out by both "Golden" and "Liquitex" brands (...available at craft stores and art supply stores)..
Do not mix with oils. Paint on any non-oily surface. Abrade non-absorbent surfaces for increased adhesion. Minimum film formation temperature is 49°F/9°C. Avoid freezing. Cleans readily with soap and water.
....come in all sort of textures & stiffnesses...... and gloss through matte
...the various types can be mixed together
....can be used on paper, canvas, or polymer clay, etc.
...they form durable films when dry which are flexible and water/chemical/UV resistant... very low shrinkage
....they dry slowly by evaporation ...take about 24 hours to dry-cure completely
While acrylics surface dry, or skin over very quickly (sometimes within minutes), they typically take much longer, sometimes months, to thoroughly dry. Obviously, the thicker the film, the slower it is to dry.(see http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medsadds/gels/geluses.php for drying details
... dry clear to translucent (depending upon thickness) .... looks white in container
For purposes of controlling transparency of paints, adding gels and/or mediums offers a useful tool. Nearly all gels and paste are effective for this purpose, with the exception of those that are opaque (the Pumices and Molding Pastes). The Gloss Gels are most effective, especially when highly transparent glazes are desired, and the glazes are to be applied thickly (greater than 1/8 inch wet film thickness). The Matte and Semi-Gloss products will increase the translucency of the paint, but will not yield genuinely transparent glazes
Be aware that nearly all acrylics have a propensity to foam and get air trapped within them. This can be most dramatic when applying glazes and various translucent effects. Therefore, it is important to take proper precautions and to handle the materials carefully. This includes: avoid shaking, do not whip or stir excessively, refrain from generating a vortex during mechanical mixing and pour and handle slowly and carefully. .
...have excellent adhesive qualities so can be used as glue when used alone
Another frequent use of such products is as a glue for collaging materials together. This technique is valuable when collaging any materials to which the water-based acrylics have no difficulty bonding. Certain materials, such as glass and certain metals and plastics, should be avoided. Because of their greater binding capabilities, the Gloss products are the preferred choices for gluing collaging materials; however the other sheens function at satisfactory levels. Generally, we recommend the Soft Gel Gloss for collaging.
...discrete inclusions like glitter, etc., can be added
....add to acrylic paints to extend them ( so that they go farther and cost less)
.....add almost any paint or paint pigment to tint them..... will look very pale before drying though
........when added to acrylic paint, they alter the paint's
..........appearance (shiny, matte)
...........handling characteristics
Another frequent use of the gels and pastes is to alter the consistency or body of the acrylic paints
...............e.g., increase tackiness-tooth... or increase transparency and brilliance
...............or on fabric, control bleeding and allow smoother application, etc.
...........volume (viscosity or thickness, vs. runniness) to create many different effects
................sculptural effects can be achieved with the thicker ones (pastes?)
A common use of the thicker gels or pastes is to build relief, or 3-dimensionality, onto the support. For this, GOLDEN Heavy Gels, Extra-Heavy Gels, High Solid Gels and Molding Pastes are valuable tools.
......crackle mediums?

as a finish
One final point to make about the use of gels is that all of these products are NOT recommended as final picture varnishes. Generally speaking, these products do not have to proper balance of properties for such application. They are all either too soft, too hard, wrong consistency, or they simply foam up too much to be a clear topcoat.
...A final property that all lack is that of removability. None of the gels are truly removable

listing of the various types of acrylic mediums (& their characteristics and what they're often used for):
...Gel Medium ...used to extend acrylic paint, alone as an adhesive (see Glues > other glues), and as a clear finish
...Heavy Gel ... Matte Gel
...Gloss Medium... Matte Medium... Iridescent Tinting Medium
...Glazing Medium... Matte Varnish ...High Gloss Varnish ....Gloss Varnish Flexible Surface
...Acrylic Slow-Dri Medium
...Super Heavy Modeling Paste

You can run it through just about any cake-decorating tip to make designs. It's available at art supply stores, and I know Michael's has it. Barb

--see Paints > Acrylic Gel Mediums for more)
http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/18a/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=213 (Liquitex mediums and explanations of types?)
(Glues .. misc Cements)

Acrylic Polymer Mediums (no baking needed)
(decals or direct?)

Carol Duvall's explanation of using an acrylic polymer medium (since the 70's --before photocopies, etc.) for transferring images without heat from newspapers, magazines, books . . . even baseball cards, onto glass, wood, canvas and even stones (this takes 5-6 coats, drying 30 min. between each) and overnight to transfer and 20 min-sev.hrs to soak)... she used the Liquitex brand but there are other brands available at art supply (and craft?) stores. Several "transfer" products have come along since then which are basically acrylic polymer medium and work in the same way (Picture This, etc.). (She also mentions transfer papers which could be later used with photocopies, but doesn't mention liquid clay which wasn't around then)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_hobbies_interests/article/0,,HGTV_3121_1382895,00.htmlCarol Duvall also has a show where she makes a clear decal transfer (onto clear tape) by using an image from photocopy or ("non-glossy"?) magazine image ,etc. ...pressing it onto clear packing tape, then soaking and rubbing the paper off... ...if you want to transfer a picture larger than the 3" tape, try a laminating sheet instead ....she says to adhere it to another surface (if there isn't sufficient residual tackiness), use "gel medium" (or any white glue?)... note that transfer image will be shiny from the tape covering
(see more on the types of acrylic mediums in Paints
> Acrylics > acrylic mediums)

USE with clay:
...in place of Flecto or liquid clay as a clear medium to tint or add inclusions to
...in place of other clear finishes to seal or give gloss, etc. (same strength though?)
...make transfers?
...use as adhesive?

Perfect Paper Adhesive is just a gel medium???
PPA adheres to virtually any non-oily surface, including wood, paper, glass, polymers, mica, and acrylic. It has a smooth, non-sticky consistency, which sets it apart from any other adhesive. Non-sticky means cleaner hands and cleaner artwork. PPA dries to a totally transparent matte or gloss finish. Water resistant, flexible, and durable, it is considered a museum-quality adhesive and medium. Uses include: collage, decoupage, assemblage, montage, sizing for papermaking, glass painting and glass decoupage, and impression lifts (transfers???).

(I originally was using it to make scales from my dragons)

(MOKUME) Jami Miller told me about putting a layer of Pearl-ex mixed with acrylic gel medium in your mokume stack. You probably would get more intense color this way, whichever powder is used. Randi

the same as acrylic gel medium??) the Acylic modeling paste, or a product called Form-it, a plastic mousse. It's perfect for light weight sculptures and landscapes. (see also Liquid Sculpey, Diluent paste, etc.)--could use as an armature?
~The brand (of modeling paste) I have used for a design class and as grout for some pc mosaics is Liquitex. It is found in the same area as the Gel Medium and Gesso i.e. among the painting supplies. Kat
~I have done 3-d sculptures, etc on wood....using Modeling Paste.....It is just the right consistency to go thru the cake decorating tubes. . . .

Translucent (& Gold) "Embossing " Paste (remove from page it's on, or at least substitute new version below)

Flexible, bakeable, and compatible with polymer clay... Dreamwaver Embossing Paste can be used "as embellishment or as an inclusion, (in waht?), and can be mixed with all sorts of micas and glitters for some extra-special effects.
...some of the ways it's been used: fairy wings, adding color or texture, as a sealer, and even as a transfer medium!"
...Linda (of Puffinalia) showed us this new product she has started carrying --translucent embossing paste ....it differs from liquid clay in that it seems to be more transparent once it dries (especially when applied thicker) (it's white when it's wet) and it is a paste--the thickness means it doesn't flow like liquid clay does, so once you put it somewhere, it stays.
... It would tear somewhat easily, it does have some elasticity to it (once it's dry, of course)... but if I keep pulling on it, it will break apart (you could roll it into a jellyroll without it cracking though).... It wouldn't take too much
"wear and tear" I don't think unless it was sealed in something.
....I don't know how thick it can get before it's no longer transparent . . .and I don't know how easy it would be to cut though.
...I sprinkled some multi-colored extra fine glitter into it and spread it thinly on a tile and let it dry. Then I used a snowflake paper punch to punch out some snowflakes that I pressed into some raw clay. Pamela
...Meredith discovered that you can add a second layer to the back of a dried layer and it strengthens the wings she was making for her dolls. caneguru
... I think it could also be used as part of a layering technique--maybe to create a faux dichroic look, or at least an interesting look--putting either liquid clay or a thin layer of translucent clay over it and then sanding and polishing it might look really neat.
.....I know Linda mentioned using it for fairy wings and things like that
....instead of spreading it onto a tile to dry, you could probably just spread it on raw clay to dry --I'll try that later....Pamela
...My (whole) caned butterfly piece is sealed with the Puffin's clear embossing paste. Kathi
...I really want to try the transfer technique to see how it looks/works vs. Golden's soft gel medium. Lexy

I was sort of thinking (Gold embossing paste) looked liked parrot spooge right out of the jar....but boy howdy....I dry brushed in one area of my pendant with the gold, and it really made it pop! ...so I am hooked on it. Kathi

Can this be thinned with water (gold or translucent?)... and if so, do you think if you stirred it a lot it would make bubbles/foam? MelissaJ
...Haven't tried that yet.... caneguru