history
of jewelry (and links to other histories)
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/History/jewelhome.html
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/index.html (look under Articles)
ONLINE
jewelry GROUPS
Polymer
Clay Jewelry forum on Delphi
http://forums.delphiforums.com/PCJewelry/start
…("meeting place for experienced polymer
clay artists and crafters who make polymer clay jewelry, and experienced jewelry
makers interested in expanding their art to include polymer clay. A background
in the basics of polymer clay is recommended. Though new clayers are welcome,
we will graciously provide them links to other quality sites for basic information.
Our focus is specifically on jewelry making, and all aspects of its construction,
including polymer clay components, findings, wirework, and mixed media...")
Jewelry
Making forum at Delphi (ask or answer questions & talk
about jewelry) …and definitely a lot of them work with wire too. Sunni . . .
http://www.delphi.com/ab-jewelrymkg/start
I
go to http://www.about.com and
read all their jewelry making tips. Lots of information there. And many
tutes on using wire. You can subscribe to the newsletter and it will tell you
when new stuff is up. Kim2
Beading
BOOKS-Videos and online
LESSONS
Creating Your Own Antique Jewelry :
Taking Inspiration from Great Museums Around the World (English title) by Cris Dupouy, (hardcover - September
2001), . great book on making jewelry
with polymer clay...the book is beautiful. I finally
saw it on the Amazon site. The author is French and this book was previously only
available in the French language. (There is now an English translation.) . Jacqueline
...
"The
Best Little Beading Book"
by Wendy Simpson Conner is one I would recommend for bead
stringing …about $24 I think, and a bead "bible"
of sorts. It will explain tons! Desiree
"The
Basics of Bead Stringing" by Genevieve Bourget (softcover)...I recommend
a great intro book filled with terrific info on putting jewelry together..
ISBN 0-9615353-0-x Dianne C..
"Step-by-Step
Bead Stringing" by Ruth F. Poris is one small, but very helpful book
is . It costs around $8 and even though small, it has lots of line drawings of
how-to do a lot of finishing techniques. It also lists tools that you need
to put together jewelry.
.... It's been around for a long time, but is
still available from Amazon.com, etc. However, it came out before Buna-N
cord and SoftFlex wires were available but these can be substituted for similar
items listed in the book. Dotty
Advanced Beadwork by Ruth Poris for bead stringing technique
Beads! by Stephany Tomalin for bead
stringing techniques.
"The
Complete Book of Jewelry Making" by Carles (Charles?) Codina is a beautiful
book which will probably have far more information in it than you need.
It goes into all types of jewelry making, but it has a wonderful section
on making closures, jump rings, etc.
....It's a wonderful book
to own anyway because it has given me a lot of great ideas to do with
clay instead of metal, etc. Dotty in CA
...I've been pretty pleased with this book... has
good information on tools, findings, a variety of techniques, though mostly
oriented at necklaces rather than, say, pins. The author is
British, though, so for American readers there will
sometimes be terminology differences to overcome.
One
of my web site clients is a bead store which carries findings, books
and supplies as well as beads. Since they are retail, they won't charge you extra
for small orders; they'll also be happy to give you suggestions for stringing
and findings and answer any questions you have.
While they don't have
online ordering yet (I'm building the shopping cart right now), they'll be adding
it soon; in the interim, they do have a toll-free phone number for orders. http://www.br-beads.com
--Triche
...many bead stores are willing to help this way
too, I believe
ONLINE
Bob’s various lessons on stringing
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/9555/
http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/9664/hobby.html
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa062899.htm
knotting
with a needle embedded in a wood block as helper
http://martinseclectic.net/Tutorials/PearlKnotting.htm
lots of info... and, so that's how
that knotting tool is used. Jacqueline
http://www.pmegio.com/instructions/index.html
Rings & Things...this jewelry retailer's
website has lots of information and instructions on beading and
cording. (they sell products also, but they also dedicate alot of their site space
to project how to's.)
....they really delve into the bare basics of
stringing and cording, using detailed instructions and diagrams.Adrienne
jewelrymaking.about.com
...look all over http://jewelerymaking.about.com ...Tammy
Powley put up instructions, technique links, and a gallery... Ginny B.
....lots
of tips on various kinds of stringing, knotting and beading
CORDING for beading...& stringing
....for thicker cords, see
Pendants-Cording....
The
cordings discussed below are the types which are usually completely covered
with beads ...
(...for the usually-heavier-weight cords, which are often
visible for part of their length, see Pendants-Cording
since there's some overlap)
The
cording used for a particular project depends on at least these factors:
...size
of beads
...weight of the beads... and type of beads (e.g., glass beads may
be harder on plastic coatings or natural fibers)
...size of holes in beads
...drapability
(vs. stiffness)
...whether tying is desired (between some or all beads)
...stretchiness
...cost
....or appearance
I have noticed that necklaces with very small beads between large beads seem to drape better (even as small as seed beads)
Rings-Things page
on different kinds of beading cord
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/014.htm
Plastic
Stretchy (transparent)
....solid
and tube...
There are many opinions about Stretch Magic
or any stretchy cording
....I like it for bracelets, but
not for necklaces
.........for
...
..... I have used every
brand on the market, from Stretch Magic to
floss, and evetually, they all break (usually, when the end-user catches
it on a door handle or some pokey object and "walks away" not realizing he/she
is tethered).
........sharp holed beads
and stones are not a good idea .....some metal beads
have sharp edges too that will cut the stretchy
........E-beads
(E size) and seed beads are fine. Klew
....sharp
beads can shorten the life of the bracelet considerably
...
I
bought some clear stretch cording on a card
.....it was clear & similar to Stretch Magic but thicker
...
but it has "creases" in it from being wrapped
around the card. I may only be able to use this for bracelets, unless there
is a way to remove the folds. Denise
...any bead shop will have it, and Michael's
carries it but not in all of the thicknesses.
I
us a lot of Nymo and Kevlar threads (often doubled
depending on the thickness) and have had good luck with them. Emily
....
...
...if
you tie stretch cord with a regular square or quilter's knot, it will pull out
immediately, so instead, i hold both ends together so they are next to one another
instead of "facing" each other. then wrap both around my index finger once to
make a loop. i slip the ends thru the loop once and then pull tight by stretching.
then i separate the threads below the knot and pull them gently but firmly in
opposite directions to seat the knot. then i tie another knot, just the same way
over the top of the first knot. you can choose to slip the ends once or twice
this time. tighten the same way. sunni
...
........(for
knot or crimp?)...I used a clay bead at the joining point ... the two ends
go in the bead and you put the glue in there. Put two small beads on the sides
of the bigger clay bead ... and it looks like a design rather than
a necessity LOL..... plus it makes the bond stronger…Erum
knot
and crimp bead (for stretchy cording)
......first,
dab a tiny amount of superglue on the knot.. let dry for
a minute or so
.... slide a tiny crimp bead over the knot and crimp.
Holds beautifully. Barbara
...I
use crimp beads (alone) on the stretch magic (and flexible beading
wire, fishing line)
....I highly recommend getting crimp pliers if you
are doing more than a few ...the pliers come in 2 sizes, one for micro crimps,
one for "normal" size. MarieCT
....I think a crimped stretch magic looks more
professional. ...the crimp ends up looking like a tiny bead
...
I try to put crimp beads in a place that won't be too obvious, because,
well, let's face it, crimp beads aren't the most beautiful thing in the world!
....there is another type of crimp bead which looks like a very small
hollow bead. I've had these beads cut tigertail - so I'm sure there is
a risk with stretch magic.
...
....... If you are having
trouble getting (the cord?) through a second time try this: after stringing all
your selected beads on it, hold the end and stretch it over your fingernail to
stretch the stirng thus making it smaller in diameter...then it is easy to slip
the other end through and snug it up before crimping...BE CAREFUL not to
crimp too tightly or you will cut right through!
(see more on crimp beads
below in Plastic-Covered Wire > Crimps & Knots))
(only a little stretchy)
SoftGlass
cording (clear and various colors) -- 2 types (tube and flat)
....looks
like frosted glass with the feel of silk ....because
of the frosted surface, it doesn't have that plastic-y look
...... tube form (hollow) ....... in two sizes:
5 mm x 2.5mm ....and 2.5 mm x 1.5mm
...... flat lacing
form...... .25" wide x .125" thick
...colors:
clear and 8 colors
...cheap! ....$5.95 for 100 feet
...it
is very strong and there's
no shredding (leather cording,ribbon and satin/silk cording all shred)....great
to work with
http://www.puffinalia.com/softglas.html
...and http://www.jewelrycord.com/SoftGlass_Tubular_and_Flat_Lacing.htm
(tube
or flat??) perfect drape in the smaller diameter, a little less so in the
larger ...but the larger is stiff enough to make it perfect for bracelets and
if you keep the pendants on the heavy side or the cord on the short side (as for
a choker)
...I experimented with the solid black flat ribbon version
while at ShrineMont; it baked fine, and still has a slight stretchy
feel to it
.. the clay I baked onto it stuck pretty well,
but I would still recommend gluing it in place or using liquid clay for
added strength. katbyte
TUBE
SoftGlass:
....for the tube type
SoftGlass, special decorative metal connectors
(plugs) are needed also (which fit into the hollow ends of the cording
to hold them together)
....and the connectors hold tight, tight ....I really
like this stuff!
....instead of their
connectors, I bet you could extrude clay into snakes...then cut
a lengthto use as a connector. Tonja
...you
can even use the connectors as elements of a piece of jewelry instead of a clasp
to be hidden. Marla
....I
colored the connectors on one with a gold Krylon paint pen. Eliz.
... it has just the right amount of stretch to slip it over your hand without
undoing the connector for a bracelet
.... I can see making
a double-holed tile bracelet with it, and imagine that the connectors
would just look like another bead ... no knotting, gluing and hiding the
knot. Susan
FILLINGS:
...... Pinata inks (alcohol based) can be injected into
the cord....this lets you color the cord to any color you wish
......colored
wire works wonderfully .....as well as embroidery floss
......ultrafine
glitter (I also used silver connectors, bunka tassels, and black o-rings for
accents on one)
.......had a lot of fun with
the "fillable" aspect of the Soft Glass, even using Bead-azzles in one
piece. Eliz.
CUT into "BEADS"
...It
can also be cut into tube beads, and used as
spacer beads to add just a splash of color here and there in your necklace,
bracelet, or earrings. Karen
Unfortunately,
Soft Glass continually changes their color formulas,
so if you find a color you really like, you'd better order quite a bit of it.
The next time you order, it's likely that the color is at least slightly different
from the previous one - and sometimes quite noticeably different. Elizabeth
another
tubular cording much like SoftGlass, is pony bead lacing
material (called "Tooobs Pony Bead Lacing" by Pepperell Braiding Co)....
Plastic-Covered Wire, or wires...(non-stretchy)
Soft Flex (& SoftTouch)
SoftFlex (by
Beadalon)
... comes in 3 diameters: .014 (small...also called SoftTouch)
... .019 (medium) .... .024 (large... larger, heavy
beads only)
.......numbers are not like wire gauge numbers (20ga, 22ga) ..the
more abrasive a bead is the higher the number when using Softflex
...
made from very thin, marine quality, stainless steel wires woven
togehter, and then nylon coated
...flexible and knottable ..... used
primarily for cording
...12 colors ...since it comes in a number of colors,
it won't show through...
http://www.softflextm.com/products.htm
and http://www.softflextm.com/soft_flex_wire.htm
SoftFlex .014 is SoftTouch
...used for seedbeads, and other very light items
...they
are claiming extremely strong... same performance as SoftFlex with 50% more
supple drape
...available only in Clear
...SoftTouch was designed
to replace thread in woven projects --it was not designed for stringing.
...for small (3-4mm) or lightweight beads, I think the
.014 drapes as nicely as silk thread and can be knotted or crimped.
...I do use SoftTouch for stringing, but only for multi-strand (at
least 4) seedbead constructs where anything bigger isn't going to fit or
I need that much drape... and if possible, I double the SoftTouch in each
strand and none have broken yet (the stuff is 10lb test but you need to watch
out that no weak points
are created through abrasion or sharp turns or something real heavy that doesn't
have other support )
http://www.softflextm.com/soft_touch_wire.htm
Kate pre-stretches her SoftFlex (or her silk cord) so it won't stretch out later... she holds it under one foot and pulls upward to stretch
I have one Softflex bracelet I used to wear constantly, including in the shower... it broke eventually because the plastic coating over the cable had become abraided, allowing water to get to the wire cable inside and cause it to rust and break)
"change in terminology for "Silver"... Soft Flex long ago was coated in clear nylon, then the color being called Clear or Clear Satin. ...now we have been processing the color "Silver" into the clear nylon, resulting in a very nice matte "Silver" finish, a more refined color.
other plastic-covered wire cords
...Accu-Flex...for abrasive beads and gives drape to lightweight beads
........ also sold in thicker weights to accommodate larger, heavier bead
strands. (begin and end strands by using crimp beads or crimp clasps).
...
Acculon for beads with sharpened holes. No beading needle required.
Tigertail
is a less expensive, very strong, and somewhat stiff,
plastic-covered-wire cording ... comes in several thicknesses?
.... I've
used it when I wanted to throw something together fast...no needles or knots!....
it can get kinks... Emily
To prevent tigertail
(or other stiff cords) from chewing through
polymer beads, you can reinforce the beads so the sawing action is against
metal instead.
....to do this on really big beads, I sometimes use
grommets (those little metal bits sold to make belts and things
which come in metallic and painted color finishes, I like the plain brass and
copper ones best.)... I just drill holes the right size and push them into the
holes of the baked beads (using a bit of Zap-a-Gap to make sure they stay there)
and they give a nice finished look to the bead. ...they can be ordered in all
sizes including really tiny, so in theory you could use them even on small beads.
Another solution is to make beads over metal tubes (hobby shop, cut in short pieces)
or to use embedded end caps like Tory Hughes sometimes does with faux coral or
amber beads.
.....another thing I do is run 4 strands of tigertail
through small seed beads that will hide inside the pendant's
hole.... the strands of tigertail are strung with coordinating beads and plaited
(or not, for a looser look). Add a clasp and voila!
Crimps and Knots
There are several types of crimp beads.
...tiny
round bead (this doesn't seem to be favored any longer since
it isn't as strong)...used with flat pliers or crimping pliers
...tiny tube
which is generally used with "double crimping pliers" (or
if flattening with flat pliers, someone suggested also squeezing
the tube with the the tips of your round nose pliers for good measure for more
strength)
(...can also use a small metal coil
as a crimp)
various types of crimps http://www.jewelrysupply.com/EJS/crimpbeads.htm
...crimping
is often done on beading wire (like Accuflex, Tigertail, Softflex, etc.),
and fishing line, but could use on other cording??
...crimp beads are
usually used for terminating the end of a beading wire so that a
clasp can be attached
...... can also be used to hold individual beads in place
on cording
flat
nose pliers can be used to squash crimps (but won't be as secure or look as
nice as using crimping pliers)
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/crimp-bead-tech.pdf
crimpling
pliers leave a crimp tube looking like a tiny smooth and rounded bead
......though
there are also "crimp covers" to go over and hide crimp beads
tube-type crimp beads, and double crimping pliers:
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa062803.htm
I
use a sterling silver crimp bead (crimp tube?, 2x2) with a "double"
crimping pliers to close the crimp.. Terri
...animation of two-step
crimping (...crimp is pressed in larger, bottom section of crimping pliers
to form a vertical bean shape... then removed and put into smaller top
section of pliers after turning the bean sideways to crimp again)
http://www.bartky.net/CRIMPER/anicrimp.htm
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/softflex.aspx
...buy
double crimping tool at bead stores (Michaels?), jewelry catalogs, and on-line
at the SoftFlex website
http://www.jewelry-tools.com/WJU/techniques/softflex.htm
(see more on crimp beads above in Plastic-Stretchy)
on knots
in bead tips (clamshell, etc.), Kate Richbourg recommends tying 2 knots (surgeon's
knot = rt over left, left over right)
...saturating knot with Sally Hansen's
Hard As Nails glue rather than superglue (which
can travel down the cord into the clasp)...
then waiting 24 hrs. before closing
Other
Cording Types
(& unknown)
elastic "beading" cord ....(sewing stores)
....
.....I can
glue OR crimp this cord and it works just fine. Karen H
.....i
now use the black or white cloth-covered notions stretch cord in
the sewing department..... you can get it in a couple different thicknesses
depending on the size and/or weight of the beads you use.
....
..monofilament
(plastic) fishing line is alright for something that doesn't really use
silver/metal beads or glass that may somehow have the slightest sharp
edge inside the bead hole eventually cut the monofilament...... I have
used monofilament for lightweight lariats that are mostly made up of seed beads
but would be cautious of using it in something that needs to withstand more weight.
...will become brittle and break after a few years-especially where it is stressed
at knots.
Stringth ...a synthetic
twisted cording and strong as all get out. Once you tie a knot,
it stays tied and it comes in a size perfect to fit through double bead cups.
I use it for everything; necklaces, bracelets and anklets (RioGrand carries it)
....I
tried a new (to me, at least) cord called "Stringth"
that I saw in the Rio Grande catalog (also at Land of Odds)
... good looking,
easy to work with, super strong but drapes well, knots (and
unknots) well, and comes in gorgeous colors!
...Give it a try, it
is very elegant! .. just wanted to share how thrilled I am with this cord,
I think it is the nicest by far....goodbye Nymo, Silk, linen and all the rest!
Jan Clausen
silk
is used when beading "soft" gem materials such as pearls. It is also chosen
for decorative use, as in weaving multi-colored strands.
....I started out
doing traditional pearl knotting on silk and would rather never do it again!
People do not realize how fragile the silk is & how
often silk-strung beads should, ideally, be restrung!!
....(if you must knot,
there are other kinds of stuff--like waxed cotton or linen thread--that
are great for things like big chunky amber, for instance.)
there
are various kinds of cords sold for variations of macrame, in various
sizes
http://shop.vendio.com/MacrameBoutique/store.html
(Chinese knotting cord)
....I used cord that I ordered from
Whiteswan ... think it's conso
http://miva.comsvr.com/cgi-bin/mivavm?/merchant.mvc+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TLS&Category_Code=T2
(Nylon Hand Sewing Thread ....used to sew buttons onto thick cushions
by upholsterers..... smooth, shiny, holds the knots well but also
is fairly easy to untie ...stiff, yet fine enough to fit through most 11/0 seed
beads...ends can be melted... at least 20 shades (2 oz spools, approx.130
yds)
(...like
Buna or Viton or decoy cord, braided nylon, Bunka, wrapped polyester,
soutache, elastic cords, waxed linen, silk, rattail, leather
or leatherlike cords, hemp, etc.)
Artistic Wire ... ....finishing wires in Wire
...loops, eye pins, head pins, clasps, spirals,
coils, etc.
...top
loops, clay tubes & foldovers, bails, etc.
basic definitions
Some
of the more common ways to connect elements of jewelry together are findings such
as jump rings, head pins and eye pins (and some unusual ones such
as fishing swivels).
U shapes and other shapes can also be inserted
or embedded into clay to act as connectors.
"Clasps" can
use some of these same elements, but those generally refer to the connectors (hooks,
loops, etc.) at the of the ends of necklaces and bracelets, I think.
A
jump ring is a circle of wire with a break in it
....opening
a jump ring... the sides of the circle can be pulled to opposite sides (never
pull them straight "apart"), so that it
can connect to something else (another loop like a jump ring or an eye
pin, or a cord, etc.), then be closed.
http://www.beading-frenzy.com/beading_techniques_wire_work.htm
(look down under "Opening and Closing")
...using 2 jump rings
or loops of some kind in a row allows the connection to be looser
and to "dangle" more.
...jump rings come in many diameters
and thicknesses, as well as colors, although they are usually made
of metal
......can buy them in packages at craft stores,
or individulaly at bead stores
....... or harvest them from old
jewelry or jewelry chains
You can also make your own jump
rings from a coil of your chosen wire:
…often machine-cut jump rings don't
have a nice "cut" so they never do close entirely... so cut them
with a jeweler's blade saw
....(lesson): wind the wire
around a dowel, and it should be wound so tight that there are no spaces between
the rings. Then you bring the wire down to the end of the dowel (or remove it
and hold it in your fingers), brace it against a wood cutting surface, hold the
dowel and wire firmly while using a jeweler's saw (with a bit of beeswax on it?)
at a 45 degree angle. As you cut the jumprings will either fall off the cutting
blade or onto it . . .
....lesson on coiling and cutting your own jump
rings (coiling instructions are more precise than
most people might need though)
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092898.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa012701.htm
(fancier)
A
head pin looks like a dressmaker's silk pin, or a nail, with a flat
head at the end of a straight shank (though more flexible)
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/od/finishingtechniques/ss/080905_6.htm
http://www.firemountaingems.com/findings.asp
(look down under Head pins)
...can
also make "head pins" in other ways
......"paddle"
pin...hammer
one end of plain wire so there's a "stop"
on one end, then file down any roughness
.......bent over ... make tiny
loop at one end, then close tightly, below tip
.......... or this way:http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=285
......eye
pins can function as decorative head pins ("stops") rather than
attachers...loop, spiral, square or other shape, twist/coil, etc.
An
eye pin is like a jump ring at one end of a straight wire
...only
one end of an eye pin is a loop; the other end is straight (that
straight shank can be any length)
Eyepins can be bought at the craft or beading
store, or you can make your own from a length of wire.
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/od/finishingtechniques/ss/080905_7.htm
(this one isn't properly "closed" for some
reason)
http://www.firemountaingems.com/findings.asp
(look down under Eye pins)
http://www.firemountaingems.com/shopping.asp?skw=KWFNEYEPINGC
loops
A
"loop" can be formed at the end of the straight section
of a head pin or eye pin, or at the end of a plain wire
...
this allows the pin or wire to act as a connector (can be joined to something
with a hole, or to another loop)
.........(loops can also be made in the middle
of a wire length, though it's not as common)
...the loop will resemble a jump
ring, but it will be just one part of a length of wire
plain
loop (making)
http://www.beading-frenzy.com/beading_techniques_wire_work.htm
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/earringconstruction.aspx
(look down page)
this loop is formed on a short eyepin (or piece of
wire with a loop already formed at one end), after slipping a bead or two
onto the shank... this allows the beaded wire to connect to something else at
both ends
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=BDNGNSTRCTNSBSC&sact=search
Samara's
lessons on making loops at the end of head pins, or
in the non-looped ends of eyepins for connecting to things or to
other eye/pins
http://www.data-pearl.co.uk/samara/project/basicguide.html
(bottom of the page) (gone)
A
loop can also be created as a "wrapped" loop so that it
will have several rings around its "neck" when finished:
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/wire-wrap-loop-tech.pdf
*about.com's
lesson on making a (single or) double-ended wrapped loop
which can have a bead in-between, for a "chain" of beads, or to hold
dangles
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092198.htm
http://www.beading-frenzy.com/beading_techniques_wire_work.htm
(shows it being made at the end of several jump rings)
several lessons
on making wrapped wire loops
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/techniques.aspx
briolette
loop (for side-to-side holes and 2 ends of wire --loop last)
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/flat-briolette-wrap-tech.pdf
Micki’s
lesson on using two connected wires to wrap and create a somewhat
fancy top loop for a flat oval stone (or whatever)
http://www.geocities.com/mick62001/simplecabwrap.html
Heather
R's lesson on making your own wrapped "eyepin"
from a length of wire to insert into danglies (Tropical Goldfish Necklace)
though she uses a thick wire….
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_tropfishjewelry.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~simplymad/html/earrings1.html
(gone?)
more
I go to http://www.about.com and read all their jewelry making tips. Lots of information there. And many (lessons) on using wire. You can subscribe to the newsletter and it will tell you when new stuff is up. Kim2
The necks of eyepins can
be cut to a shorter length with wire cutters (or nail clippers) and then
inserted into the top of a raw clay earring, dangle or pendant
to make something which other pieces can connect to. It's best to use a glue (a
superglue or liquid clay, or possibly a white glue meant for metal like Gem Tac)
in the hole as well, or use a mechanical type hold to keep the wire from slipping
out.
....one type of mechanical hold would be is to zig-zag
the end of the straight part which will be embedded in the clay.
The clay is then kind of pressed back around the wire, especially at the top so
that nothing is visible from the outside. Glue can be used or not.
...you
can embed the loop in the clay. I make a sort of S shape of wire
- large at the bottom and small at the top (the top loop sticks out of the clay).
I then press a small pancake of clay onto my worksurface and press the large loop
into that. Then I press on the clay that is going to be the pendant, making a
sandwich and allowing the small loop to emerge at the top.. . . the big loop of
wire curves inside most of the length of the pendant. A small loop embedded could
pull out so I go for a big loop that is only a little smaller than the overall
pendant size. Sue……..
liquid
clay works great if you're inserting the metal finding into
a raw clay item (lesson):
..put some liquid clay on the metal...
(make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid
clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack"
it in ...Bake... holds just great.
...two or more cords (with a few beads threaded
onto them) are threaded through a separator bar ...more beads may be added to
each cord, then another bar threaded on, etc.
... their purpose is to hold
together separate rows of beaded cording wherever they are placed
... used for bracelets, earrings (especially "chandelier"
type), necklaces, or whatever
http://www.beadalon.com/spacerbars.html
http://www.eebeads.com/_miscFind.htm
http://www.landofodds.com/Search.bok?category=END+BARS
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa030899.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092802.htm
(for bracelet)
...some
people also use telephone wire because its coating will actually bond with
the clay. I remember someone saying that they "created" telephone
wire by coating regular wire with two coats of (tinted, in their case, because
it would show) Liquid Sculpey --dried between coats. Doing that on the bottom
of the wire before inserting it would probably give a strong bond without bending
the wire. Diane B.
....for
most info and links on those, see above in Cords > Plastic-covered
Wire > Crimps & Knots)
(see more on using loops and U's on pendants, in Pendants-Cording > Top Loops & U's )
fishing swivels & snap swivels
http://www.fishinghook.co.kr/sw/sw-1.htm
(usually brass; all types swivel)
SOME TYPES
--barrel swivel, top
row --brass bead between two end loops; there are several wraps of wire before
each loop
--snap swivel, second --barrel swivel, with a safety-pin
type (asymmetric) connector attached to one end (this "snap"
part consists of a loop, covered area to hold the end when closed, and a larger
connector)
--interlock snap swivel -- barrel swivel, with a safety-pin
type (rounded) connector attached to one end
--3-way swivel --3
barrel swivels attached rigidly to a ring (has potential for earrings or other
dangles?)
--crane swivel --same as barrel swivel, but no wraps
of wire
I really like using fishing snap swivels in jewelry. They're strong, durable, water-proof, inexpensive and readily available. You can find them in K-Marts, Wal-Marts, sporting goods and, of course, fishing supply stores. They come in brass, nickel and black. They come in various sizes; the #1's are the biggest and sturdiest.
They
can act as decorative connectors between round, tube or any kinds of beads
or wire shapes or other bits (instead of jumprings, etc.), or be strung together
-- attach danglies to something else (...when used on a pendant, it
can lay flat easily)
http://www.desiredcreations.com/images/galleryThreePics/AltoidHeartPurseCombo.jpg
Hey, Jules, that would be a great idea! I attached a couple of fishing snap
swivels to the back of the box….I linked the buna cord to the swivels
with a couple of jewelry springs. …I slipped the end of the buna cord into
the spring and pinched the last loop down onto the buna so it couldn't
pull out. . . . For the purse, you should also use glue or epoxy, just to make
sure it wouldn't pull out. . . . The other end of the spring (with the upright
loop) gets hooked into the loop on the swivel. You'll need an set of needle
nose or chain nose pliers to manipulate the metal.
Here's another url of other
types of swivels: http://www.tackletactics.co.nz/Clipsandswivels.html
I just thought you don't really need to buna. After attaching the snap swivels
to the sides of the heart, you could attach something like gold metal chain
to the swivels.
For a purse, you might want to attach them to the sides
of the heart instead of the back, to make the whole thing hang better (which
I eventually did)... I attached the snap halves (lower potion in the pic) to the
back of my mini Altoid box with a little clay.
. . . ~I
glued the two heart shaped Altoid tins back to back using 5 minute epoxy. I recommend
sandwiching the two tins between two large boards clamped together. I attached two size #1 snap swivels to the sides with
a couple of heart shaped wads of clay. . .
I made the strap you see
in the photo, but if you can get your hands on a little purse that has one of
those long straps with spring loaded connectors that hook into D-rings, you may
save yourself a little time and effort. Those connectors will easily attach to
the swivels. Desiree
One of the scouting sites suggests making make a bracelet
out of fishing swivels …they put (seed) beads on 10-14
swivels, connecting them all together ….they suggest having needle nose pliers
available since sometimes they’re hard to open.
…tiny polymer round beads or tube beads could be substituted
…or the swivels could be used to hang danglies.
swivels used as dangles (from a pendant)
http://hometown.aol.com/sputnikdeb/myhomepage/document.nvd/AlligatorCDPin.html
(gone?)
fishing swivels can also be used as swiveling "bails" to create reversible (flip-overable) pendants ... just embed the loop at one of the swivel into the pendant.... patsy turned me on to this idea. Laurel
snap
fishing swivels used for bracelet on Carol Duvall show...seed beads plus
a larger bead were placed on each locking part of the "safety pin" (after
it was straighted some); midway in the beads, another snap swivel was added, or
at end end a connector finding of some sort was added; she also hung a few charms
off the swivels with plain swivels
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399737,00.html
(Oct 11, 02)
CORD
ENDS & CLASPS
(see Wire
for more on wire clasps)
to make a piece look more delicate small fancy metal clasps
are good..... larger pieces can hold their own with a polymer clay
type clasp. Dotty
types of
clasps at Rings ‘N Things site:
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/032.htm
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/033.htm
*Desiree’s findings and clasps
http://www.pbase.com/gallery/ddmcc2/necklace_chat
Desiree’s lessons showing different techniques
for attatching pendants and beads to wire, string, cord silk etc
http://desiredcreations.com/Misc_PCgallery2.htm
http://www.desiredcreations.com/Misc_PCgallery2.htm
~Kellie’s lesson on making a polymer ball and loop closure
with rubber cording
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/bunacord.html
here are a few more sites that kinda show how
to do clasps (at the ends of the projects).
sunni
…aunt molly's tutorial - http://home.flash.net/~mjtafoya/projects/pearl/pearl.htm
…Etcetera's Amethyst
Heart Choker: http://www.eebeads.com/Webzine/july/7_12_97.htm
…Bead Wranglers Irish
Tendril necklace: http://beadwrangler.com/project-irish.htm
lessons on various
kinds of chinese knots…. Crafty Owl
http://www.chineseknotting.org
barrel clasps --fat, screw-together metal pieces
with jump ring one end of each-- mine just fall off sometimes (even though glued
in?)...though may be a problem mostly for heavier
necklaces) Desiree
….I have problems with barrel clasps too, at times.
Maybe some have faulty grooves, or whatever you call them. I especially dislike
the small ones, but since there are so many wonderful kinds of clasps, I use other kinds,
and leave the barrel clasps to other people. As far as I'm concerned, they can
*have* them! Randi
….Dianne C's semi-lesson on covering a barrel
clasp with coordinating clay
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/technique.html
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=HWTSCRDTPGLNSTY&sact=search
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/foldover-tech.pdf
... the last
loop of the coil can be pulled out at 90 degrees from the coil to use like
a jump ring
...a single or doubled length of cord end can be inserted
into the open end of the coil (with glue or not)...then last coil at other
end can be crimped down around the cording to hold it
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/coil-crimp.pdf
...or
use one technique at each end of coil?
...can be made or purchased, in various
sizes http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/014.htm
http://www.landofodds.com/Search.bok?category=COIL+END+CLASPS
...I made bar & circle clasp (each part is linked to the buna cord
with the help of a spring finding).
(lesson)
I pushed the ends of the buna cord into the springs, then pinched
the last loop of the spring so it grabs the buna cord. The last coil on
the other end of the spring comes already turned up. Using the jewelers
flat nose pliers (a must tool), I twisted open that loop and threaded it
through the clasp's loop, then closed the loop. That's it. Basically, you'll
need: - flat nose jewelery pliers - necklace clasp (usually there
are two parts to a clasp) - 2 findings (e.g. springs) that finish the end
of the buna cord and serves as a bridge between the cord and the clasp
- sometimes jump rings, these can also be used as a bridge between the spring
and the clasp. A jump ring permits a little more twisting flexibility and also
lengthens the necklace a tiny bit. Desiree
(see much more on Buna in
Pendants
& Cording >
Cording > Rubbery Cords)
http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=277
http://www.geocities.com/beadybabedesigns/tutorials/project3.html
magnetic clasps:
Those I have tried...and i love them. I think I ordered them from Rio Grande.
They've got a good strong magnet...so don't forget customers/wearers with pacemakers should get a more traditional fastening. Laura A/Sparkle
A while back the question arose of how we could take
2 pieces of clay and thread them together like
a nut and bolt does. Well, with a bit of help
from my DH , I tried his Tap & Die set (used for re-threading stripped
screws and such) It worked !!!! Took a steady hand and maybe I should have lubricated
the clay somehow,but did I say *it worked*!! Tonja
...cut end of cording on a long diagonal with a sharp blade... form oval
loop the size you want
...glue diagonally-trimmed end to cording with superglue
...large
loop for clay bead or toggle ... or smaller loop for attaching cording
to eyepin in bead, a jump ring, etc.
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/technique.html
back-wrapping a self-loop
...there's
a nice looking finish which is quite strong for securing and
also making a decorative finish around any thick cord (rubbery cording
like Buna, round leather cord, etc.)... can also give an ethnic feel
....the
end of the cord will be made into a small loop by turning it back on itself
so that it can hold a jump ring or other finding
...... or made
into a large loop if it will have a bead passed through it as a toggle
closure
....this can be done with fine wire around any kind
of cording... or with embroidery floss around a satin cord,
etc.
(for lessons on doing this, see Pendants-Cording
> Finishing, Tying)
another way is to use seed beads on tigertail for your loop
then you can run the tigertail back through a few beads and fasten it with
a crimp bead (for more info in crimp beads, see Stretch Magic above).
My necklaces tend tend to have a very ethnic feel
to them,so I string them on leather cord . . . if they are long enough
to go over the wearers head, I close the ends by gluing them together with
about an inch overlap and then wrap them with embroidery floss to match
the colors of the piece. I got the idea from traditional Native American jewelry.
attaching
…with clay and glue or liquid clay...or leather
One good way is to glue the metal pinback to the back of the pin with a superglue (like Krazy Glue or Zap-a-Gap) to hold it temporarily, AND then press a rectangle of clay over the bar of the pin back which extends onto the surrounding clay; this embeds the bar --you can add superglue or liquid clay on this piece too).
For
the most secure hold on a pin back, I first use (superglue) Slo-Zap to
hold the pin-back in place.
...then I make a small, thin strip
of clay the same color as the back of the pin ...I coat one side
with liquid clay.
...I then place the strip over the metal base
of the pin back so that it laps over both top and bottom onto the back piece
...Once
baked, this really holds!! Dotty in CA
......
polymerclayexpress’ lesson on using this technique
http://polymerclayexpress.com/jan2001.html
...I temporarily glue the pinback on with
Zap-a-Gap, which is a cyanoacrylate (superglue type glue.) I then cover
the part of the pinback that touches the clay with a puddle of TLS &
rebake it. That makes a *very* secure bond, so be sure you get the position right
before you bake it. This is difficult to remove. Barb
(lesson from Linda Goff....using new clay on both
sides of the bar)
1. Bake your pin
2. Put a very thin layer of liquid
clay on the back of the pin where the pin back will go
3. Cut a thin sheet
of clay (# 5-6 on pasta machine) three times wider and slightly
longer than the pin back and place it where the liquid clay is on the back
of the pin. Press it on firmly.
4. Press the pin back
firmly into the middle of that clay
5. Cut a sheet of clay (# 3
on pasta machine) three times wider than the pin back and short enough to
fit on the top of the pin back without interfering with the hinge mechanisms.
.......Press firmly onto top of pin back and over lower layer of clay.
Straighten up edges but don't trim very much.
6. Make sure the pin
mechanism works ok.... then bake either right side up or back side up
Kellie’s lesson on making this kind of covered
pinback
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/pinback.html
Christel's mini lesson on making a textured
cover for a pinback (for large oblong pin)
http://home.online.no/~raje/Polymer/projects/womanpin/index.htm
(last 2 photos, steps 10-11)
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/rainbow.html
...once
you put your pieces together, there is no repositioning
(especially if you used the instant hold type
superglue).
...if you make a
boo boo, pull the pieces apart right away, clean or scrape the spot
where the instant glue is, and start over. Geo
Kellie's lesson on covering the entire
back of the pin with clay (which yields a "hidden,"
very finished looking back)
...she cuts 2 holes for the extruding
parts of the pinback in a backing piece the same size as the partially baked
(?) pin with small Kemper cutter or drinking straw
...then creates a sandwich
with the pin and the new backing, using a bit of liquid clay
...textures
the backing clay once it's sandwiched
You could do it all in
one baking, I just usually don't. why? ....well, I make the pin first, the
pretty part... and I partially bake it. this way, when I attach the pin backs,
I don't mess up the pretty part of it, and then bake for the full length of time....
it can be done either way, it is up to you! Kellie
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/pinback.html
...I bought a bag of leather scraps ... thin suede pieces,
soft glove leather, etc.
.......after I bake my pin, I glue on
the pinback
...then I cut a piece of the leather to match the entire
back of the pin exactly ... punch holes in it so the pin and posts
fit through... and glue the leather to the back. ...... It makes
a nice neat back. Marty aka Marlene
attaching …with
clay only:
After
a few trials with different methods, my favorite is to bake the item to
be made into a pin, then attach the pinback with a piece of clay and
rebake. Desiree
...
...in
all cases, hold your pieces down for awhile, moving your fingers
to press on all surfaces to get a uniformly glued piece.
misc.
... you can place it on a small cloud of polester
stuffing or batting to bake it or use other support methods discussed in Baking
>Support
... or bake the clay pin first, and add the
clasp afterwards (and rebake if you've used clay or liquid clay)
...if the
pin is very large and flat, but still dimensional on its face, you may have to
figure out some way of additionally supporting it while baking. DB
http://www.talliesplace.com/html/tools.html
.......you
could instead create the background clay without the transfer, add the
pinback and bake (then add the decal and Future sealer ...this way you don't have
to bake again. ...or place the pin on polyester stuffing in a disposable aluminum
pan to bake. Patty B.
.....or bake pin and pinback (right side up) on a piece
of cardboard with a small rectangle cut out of it (see Jewelry
> Pinbacks)
...I
saw a tip at Quilt Junction to run a piece of clay through the pasta machine
with a piece of lace or other texture sheet, and use that as a back when
you assemble pins.
I
glued on a pin back right in the middle
of the pin and then covered the shaft with a thin tab of polymer clay. It
looks neat and tidy, however when you wear the pin it has a tendency to "flop
over", like it's not weighted properly Do you put your pin backs
nearer to the top of the PC pins? Sue
...I try to put it on the top quarter
of the pin. I also try to use the biggest pin back
that will fit and not show on the front of the pin too. I've only had the floppy
thing happen when I've made the top part of the pin too narrow where I can't attach
a pin back. Susan
…some of the ones that hang the best have some dangles
from the bottom to act as a counter balance.... susie
…I've found that
the cheap pinbacks are too deep--about 1/4"---
and make the piece stick out too far--as well as flop over. The really good
pinback is much shallower and the perfect solution for the "flops"…
Jeanie
…plus on the good ones, the entire back can be adhered to the
pin, while the "cheap" ones have those bent-up sides on them. . . I know Rings N Things sells the more
expensive ones and I think Rio Grande does too. Susan
The
problem with having a pin "tug" at the lighter
types of fabric can be helped a lot by placing a small piece of felt
(in a color that won't show through the fabric) and pinning the pin through
both fabrics.... I often give customers a piece when they buy one of my pins
DottyinCA
....You need to think of the drag
of weight on the fabric to which the item will be pinned. (Silky blouse or summerweight
dress, not just jackets.) The advantage of the horizontal pin back for most applications
is that it spreads the weight of the pin over two areas of the fabric. In the
vertical arrangement, all the weight of the pin pulls on the top hole. Having
the fastener at the bottom end is the better of the two vertical
choices.
....Has anyone tried solving this by making a clay cover for a horizontal
pinback (like you would for a barette) and then gluing the vertical clay piece
over it or dangling the main piece (pendant style) from a ring or loop set into
the clay that covers the horizontal pinback? Guess you would have to plan that
as part of the design. Karen in WNC
maybe
2 tie tack-type pins (one at each end of the pin)
could be used instead of a regular pin back .
...my transfer
is done on a fairly thin sheet of clay ...I bake it first
..
then I set it into a piece of raw clay and do the adornmentt...then
bake again. DottyinCA
more
on glues for backs
I glue metal to back
clay (barrettes) with one of the polyurethane glues. Right now I'm using
Elmer's ProBond polyurethane Ultimate Glue. ...Gorilla glue is another
brand with the same properties.
...These glues expand
a bit when they cure, and they take 24 hours to fully cure. Read the directions
as it says there is a bit of moisture required.
... I apply the glue to the
baked clay, and mist the finding with water before applying it. Be consistent
but sparing with the glue as it will foam up slightly. ...I check them after an
hour and if there is more glue present at the edges of the finding than I want,
I will wipe it away with a cotton swab. Patti K.
I've
tried the white vinyl glues made for attaching jewels to fabric
(Jewel-It, Gem Tac, etc.),. . .
and found they work very well. As you can machine wash and dry these glues,
temperature is not a problem.
...Some are fairly thin bodied,
so use a second coat on porous materials.
...They
easily bond to metal, a big plus for me. ...Katherine Dewey
I
used E-6000 for some time, but found that too often a pin back or
earring back came off, especially in extreme heat. . . . (for more on the failure of E-6000 –Goop and also superglues in hot weather, or other
hot
situations, see Glues)
Never
glue E-6000 or Goop to a hot or warm piece ...
the fumes it creates are horrid! Dotty
I
switched to Zap-a-Gap Slo (a slow-setting version of one brand of
superglue, with fillers) and have had few problems since. . Dotty
My
larger (thick heart) pins are slightly concave on
the back (to lighten the weight, and hold the pin closer to the fabric).
...so I sometimes make an impression of the pin back into the
clay before curing. That way, when I glue it, there is a snug holding groove,
and the pin back is less likely to fall off. (I don't bother with applying a thin
slab of solid-color clay to the back, like some do)
...I use superglue
for polymer clay. It, as well as all other glues, can eventually fail, so the
pre-formed groove helps to hold (the pinback)
...I also use a careful
application of Flecto Varathane over the dried glued area (careful
to avoid the locking mechanism and the pin itself!) Elissa
I
also always rough up the clay where the piece will be glued, and also the
back of the pin back or earring post. Dotty
..put some liquid clay on the metal...
(make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid
clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack"
it in ...Bake... holds just great.
some
of the parchment papers in the US come with a silicone
coating (mostly the recycled paper in the gourmet grocers will
have this kind ...usually says on the outside of the box if it's silicone treated).
...clay baked on it has difficulty holding
findings which were attached with glues and epoxies
...it took me a while to figure why
my pin backs were falling off after using the same stuff to attach them for 9
years. It was fine when I just returned to baking on regular paper on my
cookie sheet. Cary
There
is a pin finding that has a metal loop attached to the pin back,
so that the one attachment on the back of a piece of jewelry can be worn either
as a pin or a pendant.
…The pinbacks are 1.5 in,
and have a double loop in the top for the neckchain, cord or whatever to go through.
The stock number on the bag is 631-240. It is a package of 10. I can't put
my hands on the catalog at the moment, so I can't tell you the price.
….Rings
and Things in Spokane, WA carries the finding you are talking about
…I used
to use those types of pinbacks...but, when the wearer gets a bend
in any of the pin parts, it becomes
almost impossible to EASILY flip that little
circular part around...so...when I found this other type (Fire
Mountain), I decided I liked it *much* better. My customers
do too...also the pins "lay" a little closer to the clothing.
...I use this for items like party name
tags and other small decorations etc. that do not have to stand
up to a lot of time and abuse in order to reduce the expense of making
them.... I do not suggest those for sellable items.
...there are lots of sizes
of safetypins too. PöRRö
Pins
(see
above for attaching to pinbacks)
NOTE:
...(most pin photos are found on the
pages dealing with the particular technique used for making them,
rather than in this sub-section. …if you want, you can find each instance of the
word “pin” or “brooch” used anywhere at Glass Attic by doing a search at the Search
Function on the bottom of the homepage.
...(for framed
pins, see Frames > Small Frames for
Pins-Pendants)
Cristel’s lesson on reducing a cane, then using
a slice on a background for a pin
http://home.online.no/~raje/Polymer/projects/tulip/index.html
Trina's pin using a brass frame from http://www.metalifferous.com (back with raised frame?)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=950170&a=8509734&p=43933067&f=0
pins from "canes slices
sheet" (cut out)
http://www.tinapple.com/cynthia/98retreat/index.html
Sharon M's lesson on fan-folding diagonally
a small powdered-then-textured 1/16" thick, 3 1/2 x 3" rectangle
of clay (from which she's removed a 1" triangle at one corner) with a
chopstick, then pressing the folds together near the trimmed corner,
and wrapping several times then "tying" there with a strand of clay
(in a square knot), to make a pin (at joanns.com.. Fimo Clay Pin)
http://tinyurl.com/4fu5v
Another option is a button cover. I made a "pin"
that I wanted to wear at the throat (it has a dangle) and I put a button cover
on it. I wear it only with a blouse that buttons to the throat, but it really
makes the outfit. Sherry B.
(I suppose
a person could plan to wear something that way, and deliberately SEW a button
onto a garment in position for this use, as well.)
Cheryl's
seed-bead framed pins (using Iron-On Pellon and paper) --for instructions,
see Mixing Media
>Seed Beads
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=917835&a=7584423
(lesson) I glue
the I put the polymer piece to a piece of non-woven material (Pelon), bead
around that, trim the excess and finish the back by reinforcing with glued
on thin cardboard which is then backed by fabric or suede.
My question to anyone who uses beads with Polymer clay is how would
one attach a pin back to a contruction like this?
I've made several pins like
this and I cut slits in the suede, slip the the pin clasp and the pin 'arm' thru
the slits and then glue the pinback to the cardboard or whatever that's hidden
behind. It make a very neat finish. I also whip stitch the suede to
the nonwoven backing and it finishes the edges nicely as well. Carolyn
Jane Pollack's "batiked" egg front ovals...
like lightweight oval cabochons…she cuts and oval shape from front of an
egg with Dremel & epoxys the back, to use as pin or earrings (or pendants)
...she puts a kind of mosaic look on the oval (but hers are actual batik)
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_8191,00.html
Alison Ingham’s ancient-look
pins, mixed media, clay gun extrusions, stones, etc.
http://www.tinymicejewellery.com
(click Enter... then click on Brooches for
many more)
*LadysMaidJewels Medieval, Renaissance, etc.,
pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder and jewels
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/Polymer/polymer.html
Mary’s pins, including window
pins, stained glass, etc.
http://jackmaryetc.com/claypin.htm
Lisa’s assemblage pins
http://fragments.iwarp.com/jewelry.html
Dayle's
"openable book" pins, hinged with cording
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1751472&a=32123747&p=73924301
CD shards
used for making pins (Sally) -- lessons
http://www.rubberstampsclub.com/tips/cd-pins.html (covered with UTEE)
http://www.mirkwooddesigns.com/cdpins.htm
mixed media, feathers
(more on CD's and their shards in Onlay & Covering)
http://www.itsallinmyhead.net/vase_pins.htm
