Gen. Info.
Online jewelry groups
Books,videos,lessons re stringing & beading
Cords for beads
...plastic/stretchy (solid and tube)
...plastic-covered wire (not stretchy)
.....crimps & knots
...other cording
Connectors: loops, eyepins, swivels & clasps
Pins: pinbacks, earring posts,
.....scarf holder, glues
Barrettes, etc.
...elastic holders ... cuffs
...worms-coils... combs...snaps
...beads on bobby pins/barrettes sticks

...cuffs (rod & tube ... flat)
...forms & blanks.....misc.
...other kinds of bracelets, including watches
...various types of necklaces (& rosaries)
......coils & memory wire...other wire...fabric... misc....
Leashes for eyeglasses (+cases)
...badge holders ...belly jewelry
Misc. & Clip 'ems
...Renaissance, etc., jewelry, crowns

NOTES: Much more info on making jewelry findings oneself are in Wire (...loops, eye pins, head pins, clasps, spirals, coils, etc.)
............And much more info on attaching them to clay are in Pendants-Cordings (embedding eye pins, making U loops, clay attachers, etc.)
NOTE: Most of the photos of pins, earrings, and necklaces that here at Glass Attic will be found on the pages dealing with the particular technique used for making them, rather than on this page. ..
…If you want, you can find each instance of the word “earring” (or necklace, etc.) used anywhere at Glass Attic by doing a search at the Search function on the bottom of the homepage.

It may be possible to reposition, curve, etc., some clays while still warm (for rings, bracelets, etc.)...more about that process is located in Covering > Removable Sleeves)
many lessons using polymer clay to make jewelry

history of jewelry (and links to other histories) (look under Articles)


Polymer Clay Jewelry forum on Delphi
…("meeting place for experienced polymer clay artists and crafters who make polymer clay jewelry, and experienced jewelry makers interested in expanding their art to include polymer clay. A background in the basics of polymer clay is recommended. Though new clayers are welcome, we will graciously provide them links to other quality sites for basic information. Our focus is specifically on jewelry making, and all aspects of its construction, including polymer clay components, findings, wirework, and mixed media...")

Jewelry Making forum at Delphi (ask or answer questions & talk about jewelry) …and definitely a lot of them work with wire too. Sunni . . .

I go to and read all their jewelry making tips. Lots of information there. And many tutes on using wire. You can subscribe to the newsletter and it will tell you when new stuff is up.   Kim2

Videos and online LESSONS

Creating Your Own Antique Jewelry : Taking Inspiration from Great Museums Around the World (English title) by Cris Dupouy, (hardcover - September 2001), . great book on making jewelry with polymer clay...the book is beautiful. I finally saw it on the Amazon site. The author is French and this book was previously only available in the French language. (There is now an English translation.) . Jacqueline
it has some beautiful pieces in it and I'm still intending to use some of the techniques to make things, someday. Instead of jewelry, I think I would mostly use the ideas for barettes, goblets, switchplates, boxes, etc. ...This book has some very "big presence" pieces of jewelry to replicate. There are a lot of things that I would have done differently to make the replicas more realistic, but the way I look at is that the book is about four years old now. ...People who are into medieval and renaissance costume and re-enactment would love this book - most jewels were not precision cut and polished the way that we know them, today. The metals were not as finely detailed and soldered as metal jewelry is, today. In most of the world, bronze and silver were the most common metals for making jewelry, with gold a precious ornamentation reserved for only the wealthiest of people for centuries through most of the world. But even iron was used to make personal ornamentation. ...The Etruscans in what is now northern Italy were light-years ahead of their time in metal-smithing, creating gold granules by the millions and applying them to base-pieces in very precise and intricate patterns. Elizabeth

"The Best Little Beading Book" by Wendy Simpson Conner is one I would recommend for bead stringing …about $24 I think, and a bead "bible" of sorts. It will explain tons! Desiree

"The Basics of Bead Stringing" by Genevieve Bourget (softcover)...I recommend a great intro book filled with terrific info on putting jewelry together..  ISBN 0-9615353-0-x Dianne C.. 

"Step-by-Step Bead Stringing" by Ruth F. Poris is one small, but very helpful book is . It costs around $8 and even though small, it has lots of line drawings of how-to do a lot of finishing techniques.  It also lists tools that you need to put together jewelry. 
.... It's been around for a long time, but is still available from, etc.  However, it came out before Buna-N cord and SoftFlex wires were available but these can be substituted for similar items listed in the book. Dotty

Advanced Beadwork by Ruth Poris for bead stringing technique

Beads! by Stephany Tomalin for bead stringing techniques.

Making Wire Jewelry, by Helen Clegg from Synopsis

"The Complete Book of Jewelry Making" by Carles (Charles?) Codina is a beautiful book which will probably have far more information in it than you need.  It goes into all types of jewelry making, but it has a wonderful section on making closures, jump rings, etc. 
....It's a wonderful book to own anyway because it has given me a lot of great ideas to do with clay instead of metal, etc. Dotty in CA

Beads: Make Your Own Unique Jewellery [sic], by Stefany Tomlin, pub by David&Charles, ISBN 0-7153-9838-5. 
...I've been pretty pleased with this book... has good information on tools, findings, a variety of  techniques, though mostly oriented at necklaces rather than, say, pins.  The author is British, though, so for American readers there will sometimes be  terminology differences to overcome.

Rings n' Things catalog also has great info and tips in it. Dianne C

One of my web site clients is a bead store which carries findings, books and supplies as well as beads. Since they are retail, they won't charge you extra for small orders; they'll also be happy to give you suggestions for stringing and findings and answer any questions you have.
While they don't have online ordering yet (I'm building the shopping cart right now), they'll be adding it soon; in the interim, they do have a toll-free phone number for orders.   --Triche

...many bead stores are willing to help this way too, I believe

Bob’s various lessons on stringing
Carl's seed beads and polymer --ways of stringing

knotting for cheaters
knotting with a needle embedded in a wood block as helper

lots of info... and, so that's how that knotting tool is used. Jacqueline

Rings & Things...this jewelry retailer's website has lots of information and instructions on beading and cording. (they sell products also, but they also dedicate alot of their site space to project how to's.)
....they really delve into the bare basics of stringing and cording, using detailed instructions and diagrams.
...look all over ...Tammy Powley put up instructions, technique links, and a gallery... Ginny B.

....lots of tips on various kinds of stringing, knotting and beading

The knotting technique (aka pearl knotting because is used for pearl necklaces) is simply knotting (visibly or invisibly) between each bead to keep it from rubbing against its neighbors, and also to keep all the beads from scattering if the cording breaks.

CORDING for beading...& stringing
....for thicker cords, see Pendants-Cording....

The cordings discussed below are the types which are usually completely covered with beads ...
(...for the usually-heavier-weight cords, which are often visible for part of their length, see Pendants-Cording since there's some overlap)

The cording used for a particular project depends on at least these factors:
...size of beads
...weight of the beads... and type of beads (e.g., glass beads may be harder on plastic coatings or natural fibers)
...size of holes in beads
drapability (vs. stiffness)
...whether tying is desired (between some or all beads)
...cost ....or appearance

I have noticed that necklaces with very small beads between large beads seem to drape better (even as small as seed beads)

Rings-Things page on different kinds of beading cord

Plastic Stretchy (transparent)
....solid and tube...

There are many opinions about Stretch Magic or any stretchy cording
....I like it for bracelets, but not for necklaces
(because of the total heavier weight pulling on the cording??)
necklaces....well it is ok, but not recomended

stretch bracelets break.... not sometimes, not "maybe," SO don't string grandma's pearls or expensive beads on stretchy material
..... I have used every brand on the market, from Stretch Magic to floss, and evetually, they all break (usually, when the end-user catches it on a door handle or some pokey object and "walks away" not realizing he/she is tethered).
Karen H

....the most important thing to consider is which beads you will be stringing on the cording holed beads and stones are not a good idea .....some metal beads have sharp edges too that will cut the stretchy
........E-beads (E size) and seed beads are fine.
Klew beads can shorten the life of the bracelet considerably
by cutting cut the cord as it stretches back and forth through the holes
....... e.g, some glass beads, stones, crystals, ethnic , metal beads, etc.

Stretch Magic (monofiliament) ... inexpensive, clear only?, thicknessness?.... at Michaels, etc. ...…we have a new size stretch magic now, its 1.5 mm. Klew

I bought some clear stretch cording on a card was clear & similar to Stretch Magic but thicker
... but it has "creases" in it from being wrapped around the card.  I may only be able to use this for bracelets, unless there is a way to remove the folds. Denise

Nymo ... nylon monofilament (but NOT fishing line).... stretchy? ... gives me nice supple strands and I will definitely continue to use it for my clay beads
...any bead shop will have it, and Michael's carries it but not in all of the thicknesses
I us a lot of Nymo and Kevlar threads (often doubled depending on the thickness) and have had good luck with them. Emily

..making a square knot and adding a dab of glue is the best way to finish a stretch bracelet IMO
.......the best glue (mfg recommended) is called Special-T glue, as this does not make the cord brittle over time.
... you can use superglue in a pinch if necessary (but be careful it doesn't glue any beads). Karen H

...if you tie stretch cord with a regular square or quilter's knot, it will pull out immediately, so instead, i hold both ends together so they are next to one another instead of "facing" each other. then wrap both around my index finger once to make a loop. i slip the ends thru the loop once and then pull tight by stretching. then i separate the threads below the knot and pull them gently but firmly in opposite directions to seat the knot. then i tie another knot, just the same way over the top of the first knot. you can choose to slip the ends once or twice this time. tighten the same way. sunni
I find the cord hard to manipulate for knots
........(for knot or crimp?)...I used a clay bead at the joining point ... the two ends go in the bead and you put the glue in there. Put two small beads on the sides of the bigger clay bead ... and it looks like a design rather than a necessity LOL..... plus it makes the bond stronger…Erum

knot and crimp bead (for stretchy cording)
......first, dab a tiny amount of superglue on the knot.. let dry for a minute or so
.... slide a tiny crimp bead over the knot and crimp. Holds beautifully. Barbara

...I use crimp beads (alone) on the stretch magic (and flexible beading wire, fishing line)
....I highly recommend getting crimp pliers if you are doing more than a few ...the pliers come in 2 sizes, one for micro crimps, one for "normal" size. MarieCT
....I think a crimped stretch magic looks more professional. ...the crimp ends up looking like a tiny bead
... I try to put crimp beads in a place that won't be too obvious, because, well, let's face it, crimp beads aren't the most beautiful thing in the world! 
....there is another type of crimp bead which looks like a very small hollow bead. I've had these beads cut tigertail - so I'm sure there is a risk with stretch magic.
....if you do decide to use crimps, use 2 mm tube crimps, NOT the corrugated ones. (...although I do not recommend using crimps ...I have many times, but I always find that the bracelets break at the "crimp" spot). Karen H
..I use the silver 2x2 crimps and when using the crimping tool it looks really clean!
....... If you are having trouble getting (the cord?) through a second time try this: after stringing all your selected beads on it, hold the end and stretch it over your fingernail to stretch the stirng thus making it smaller in diameter...then it is easy to slip the other end through and snug it up before crimping...BE CAREFUL not to crimp too tightly or you will cut right through! can also apply a dab of superglue, then slide a bead over the crimp.. Laura

(see more on crimp beads below in Plastic-Covered Wire > Crimps & Knots))

SoftGlass (& SoftTouch)
(only a little stretchy)

SoftGlass cording (clear and various colors) -- 2 types (tube and flat)
....looks like frosted glass with the feel of silk ....
because of the frosted surface, it doesn't have that plastic-y look
...... tube form (hollow) ....... in two sizes: 5 mm x 2.5mm ....and 2.5 mm x 1.5mm
...... flat lacing form...... .25" wide x .125" thick
...colors: clear and 8 colors! ....$5.95 for 100 feet is very strong and there's no shredding (leather cording,ribbon and satin/silk cording all shred)....great to work with ...and

(tube or flat??) perfect drape in the smaller diameter, a little less so in the larger ...but the larger is stiff enough to make it perfect for bracelets and if you keep the pendants on the heavy side or the cord on the short side (as for a choker)

FLAT SoftGlass:
...I experimented with the solid black flat ribbon version while at ShrineMont; it baked fine, and still has a slight stretchy feel to it
.. the clay I baked onto it stuck pretty well, but I would still recommend gluing it in place or using liquid clay for added strength. katbyte

TUBE SoftGlass:'s really soft and flexible ...and lightweight (good because solid pc beads can add quite a bit of weight to a necklace)
... used similar to buna
.for the tube type SoftGlass, special decorative metal connectors (plugs) are needed also (which fit into the hollow ends of the cording to hold them together)
....and the connectors hold tight, tight ....I really like this stuff!
....instead of their connectors, I bet you could extrude clay into snakes...then cut a lengthto use as a connector. Tonja can even use the connectors as elements of a piece of jewelry instead of a clasp to be hidden. Marla
I colored the connectors on one with a gold Krylon paint pen. Eliz.
... it has just the right amount of stretch to slip it over your hand without undoing the connector for a bracelet
.... I can see making a double-holed tile bracelet with it, and imagine that the connectors would just look like another bead ... no knotting, gluing and hiding the knot. Susan
...all kinds of decorative things can be put into, or through, the hollow cording as well...
...... Pinata inks (alcohol based) can be injected into the cord....this lets you color the cord to any color you wish
......colored wire works wonderfully well as embroidery floss
.ultrafine glitter (I also used silver connectors, bunka tassels, and black o-rings for accents on one)

.......had a lot of fun with the "fillable" aspect of the Soft Glass, even using Bead-azzles in one piece. Eliz.
CUT into "BEADS"
It can also be cut into tube beads, and used as spacer beads to add just a splash of color here and there in your necklace, bracelet, or earrings. Karen

Unfortunately, Soft Glass continually changes their color formulas, so if you find a color you really like, you'd better order quite a bit of it. The next time you order, it's likely that the color is at least slightly different from the previous one - and sometimes quite noticeably different. Elizabeth

another tubular cording much like SoftGlass, is pony bead lacing material (called "Tooobs Pony Bead Lacing" by Pepperell Braiding Co).... found in the kids area of JoAnn fabrics . . .. I've used it like buna cord several times and it seems to work just fine. Kathy W.

Plastic-Covered Wire, or wires...(non-stretchy)

Soft Flex (& SoftTouch)

SoftFlex (by Beadalon)
... comes in 3 diameters: .014 (small...also called SoftTouch) ... .019 (medium) .... .024 (large... larger, heavy beads only)
.......numbers are not like wire gauge numbers (20ga, 22ga) ..the more abrasive a bead is the higher the number when using Softflex
... made from very thin, marine quality, stainless steel wires woven togehter, and then nylon coated
...flexible and knottable ..... used primarily for cording
...12 colors ...since it comes in a number of colors, it won't show through... and

SoftFlex .014 is SoftTouch ...used for seedbeads, and other very light items
...they are claiming extremely strong... same performance as SoftFlex with 50% more supple drape
...available only in Clear
...SoftTouch was designed to replace thread in woven projects --it was not designed for stringing.
...for small (3-4mm) or lightweight beads, I think the .014 drapes as nicely as silk thread and can be knotted or crimped.
...I do use SoftTouch for stringing, but only for multi-strand (at least 4) seedbead constructs where anything bigger isn't going to fit or I need that much drape... and if possible, I double the SoftTouch in each strand and none have broken yet (the stuff is 10lb test but you need to watch out that no weak points are created through abrasion or sharp turns or something real heavy that doesn't have other support )

Kate pre-stretches her SoftFlex (or her silk cord) so it won't stretch out later... she holds it under one foot and pulls upward to stretch

I have one Softflex bracelet I used to wear constantly, including in the shower... it broke eventually because the plastic coating over the cable had become abraided, allowing water to get to the wire cable inside and cause it to rust and break)

"change in terminology for "Silver"... Soft Flex long ago was coated in clear nylon, then the color being called Clear or Clear Satin. we have been processing the color "Silver" into the clear nylon, resulting in a very nice matte "Silver" finish, a more refined color.

other plastic-covered wire cords

Accu-Flex and Acculon .......twisted stainless steel wire with a plastic coating
...Accu-Flex...for abrasive beads and gives drape to lightweight beads
........ also sold in thicker weights to accommodate larger, heavier bead strands. (begin and end strands by using crimp beads or crimp clasps).
... Acculon for beads with sharpened holes. No beading needle required.

Tigertail is a less expensive, very strong, and somewhat stiff, plastic-covered-wire cording ... comes in several thicknesses?
.... I've used it when I wanted to throw something together needles or knots!.... it can get kinks... Emily

To prevent tigertail (or other stiff cords) from chewing through polymer beads, you can reinforce the beads so the sawing action is against metal instead. do this on really big beads, I sometimes use grommets (those little metal bits sold to make belts and things which come in metallic and painted color finishes, I like the plain brass and copper ones best.)... I just drill holes the right  size and push them into the holes of the baked beads (using a bit of Zap-a-Gap to make sure they stay there) and they give a nice finished look to the bead. ...they can be ordered in all sizes including really tiny, so in theory you could use them even on small beads. Another solution is to make beads over metal tubes (hobby shop, cut in short pieces) or to use embedded end caps like Tory Hughes sometimes does with faux coral or amber beads.
.....another thing I do is run 4 strands of tigertail through small seed beads that will hide inside the pendant's hole.... the strands of tigertail are strung with coordinating beads and plaited (or not, for a looser look).  Add a clasp and voila!

Crimps and Knots

There are several types of crimp beads.
...tiny round bead (this doesn't seem to be favored any longer since it isn't as strong)...used with flat pliers or crimping pliers
...tiny tube which is generally used with "double crimping pliers" (or if flattening with flat pliers, someone suggested also squeezing the tube with the the tips of your round nose pliers for good measure for more strength)
(...can also use a small metal coil as a crimp)
various types of crimps

...crimping is often done on beading wire (like Accuflex, Tigertail, Softflex, etc.), and fishing line, but could use on other cording??
crimp beads are usually used for terminating the end of a beading wire so that a clasp can be attached
...... can also be used to hold individual beads in place on cording

flat nose pliers can be used to squash crimps (but won't be as secure or look as nice as using crimping pliers)

crimpling pliers leave a crimp tube looking like a tiny smooth and rounded bead
......though there are also "crimp covers" to go over and hide crimp beads

tube-type crimp beads, and double crimping pliers:
I use a sterling silver crimp bead (crimp tube?, 2x2) with a "double" crimping pliers to close the crimp.. Terri
...animation of two-step crimping (...crimp is pressed in larger, bottom section of crimping pliers to form a vertical bean shape... then removed and put into smaller top section of pliers after turning the bean sideways to crimp again)
buy double crimping tool at bead stores (Michaels?), jewelry catalogs, and on-line at the SoftFlex website

(see more on crimp beads above in Plastic-Stretchy)

on knots in bead tips (clamshell, etc.), Kate Richbourg recommends tying 2 knots (surgeon's knot = rt over left, left over right)
...saturating knot with Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails glue rather than superglue (which can travel down the cord into the clasp)... then waiting 24 hrs. before closing

Other Cording Types
(& unknown)

elastic "beading" cord ....(sewing stores)
....If you want a longer-lasting stretch bracelet, you can use the (round?) elastic fabric stretch cord you buy at fabric stores (for sewing). This lasts much longer, but it is MUCH thicker -so not appropriate for all beads... comes also in metallic
.....I can glue OR crimp this cord and it works just fine. Karen H

.....i now use the black or white cloth-covered notions stretch cord in the sewing department..... you can get it in a couple different thicknesses depending on the size and/or weight of the beads you use. sunni
Elastic cord can be knotted and used with beads with larger than 1mm diameter holes ..end strands with knots or cord caps or coils and clasp.

..monofilament (plastic) fishing line is alright for something that doesn't really use silver/metal beads or glass that may somehow have the slightest sharp edge inside the bead hole eventually cut the monofilament...... I have used monofilament for lightweight lariats that are mostly made up of seed beads but would be cautious of using it in something that needs to withstand more weight. ...will become brittle and break after a few years-especially where it is stressed at knots.
...for dyeing fishing line and plastic tubing, see Pendants-Cording > Plastic--clear)

Fireline... braided, waxed cord.... a fishing line (not monofilament, not traditional braided) that comes in different weights ...the colors are black (which turns to a dark gray if you wipe off the coating), lime green, and a bright pink ......more information on it, and some great prices, see http:// Gail

Kevlar is incredibly strong thread that is used to make bulletproof vests. Easy to cut, yet almost impossible to break, it is sold in 50-yard spools. Kevlar thread is sold in two colors: the natural yellow and dyed black. Use fisherman-type knots when tying Kevlar, as overhand knots weaken the strength and integrity of the thread.

Stringth ...a synthetic twisted cording and strong as all get out. Once you tie a knot, it stays tied and it comes in a size perfect to fit through double bead cups. I use it for everything; necklaces, bracelets and anklets (RioGrand carries it)
....I tried a new (to me, at least) cord called "Stringth" that I saw in the Rio Grande catalog (also at Land of Odds)
... good looking, easy to work with, super strong but drapes well, knots (and unknots) well, and comes in gorgeous colors!
...Give it a try, it is very elegant! .. just wanted to share how thrilled I am with this cord, I think it is the nicest by far....goodbye Nymo, Silk, linen and all the rest! Jan Clausen

Nymo is a nylon thread, the size of dental floss, specifically made for beading seed beads. We recommend coating your thread with beeswax or Thread Heaven™ before beginning any seed or bugle bead projects. It will keep the thread from fraying and help it last longer.

silk is used when beading "soft" gem materials such as pearls. It is also chosen for decorative use, as in weaving multi-colored strands.
....I started out doing traditional pearl knotting on silk and would rather never do it again! People do not realize how fragile the silk is & how often silk-strung beads should, ideally, be restrung!!
....(if you must knot, there are other kinds of stuff--like waxed cotton or linen thread--that are great for things like big chunky amber, for instance.)

there are various kinds of cords sold for variations of macrame, in various sizes (Chinese knotting cord)
....I used cord that I ordered from Whiteswan ... think it's conso
(Nylon Hand Sewing Thread ....used to sew buttons onto thick cushions by upholsterers..... smooth, shiny, holds the knots well but also is fairly easy to untie ...stiff, yet fine enough to fit through most 11/0 seed beads...ends can be melted... at least 20 shades (2 oz spools, approx.130 yds)

ALSO, for heavier cords often used to hang pendants ...see Pendants & Cording > Cording
( Buna or Viton or decoy cord, braided nylon, Bunka, wrapped polyester, soutache, elastic cords, waxed linen, silk, rattail, leather or leatherlike cords, hemp, etc.)

Artistic Wire ... ....finishing wires in Wire


more info on jewelry findings, etc., & making them oneself, is in Wire
...loops, eye pins, head pins, clasps, spirals, coils, etc.

more info on connectors to hang pendants is in Pendants-Cording loops, clay tubes & foldovers, bails, etc.

basic definitions

Some of the more common ways to connect elements of jewelry together are findings such as jump rings, head pins and eye pins (and some unusual ones such as fishing swivels).
U shapes and other shapes can also be inserted or embedded into clay to act as connectors.
"Clasps" can use some of these same elements, but those generally refer to the connectors (hooks, loops, etc.) at the of the ends of necklaces and bracelets, I think.

A jump ring is a circle of wire with a break in it
....opening a jump ring... the sides of the circle can be pulled to opposite sides (never pull them straight "apart"), so that it can connect to something else (another loop like a jump ring or an eye pin, or a cord, etc.), then be closed. (look down under "Opening and Closing")
...using 2 jump rings or loops of some kind in a row allows the connection to be looser and to "dangle" more.
...jump rings come in many diameters and thicknesses, as well as colors, although they are usually made of metal
......can buy them in packages at craft stores, or individulaly at bead stores
....... or harvest them from old jewelry or jewelry chains
You can also make your own jump rings from a coil of your chosen wire:
…often machine-cut jump rings don't have a nice "cut" so they never do close entirely... so cut them with a jeweler's blade saw
....(lesson):  wind the wire around a dowel, and it should be wound so tight that there are no spaces between the rings.  Then you bring the wire down to the end of the dowel (or remove it and hold it in your fingers), brace it against a wood cutting surface, hold the dowel and wire firmly while using a jeweler's saw (with a bit of beeswax on it?) at a 45 degree angle.  As you cut the jumprings will either fall off the cutting blade or onto it . . .
....lesson on coiling and cutting your own jump rings (coiling instructions are more precise than most people might need though) (fancier)

A head pin looks like a dressmaker's silk pin, or a nail, with a flat head at the end of a straight shank (though more flexible) (look down under Head pins)
...can also make "head pins" in other ways
"paddle" pin...hammer one end of plain wire so there's a "stop" on one end, then file down any roughness
.......bent over ... make tiny loop at one end, then close tightly, below tip
.......... or this way:
......eye pins can function as decorative head pins ("stops") rather than attachers...loop, spiral, square or other shape, twist/coil, etc.

An eye pin is like a jump ring at one end of a straight wire
...only one end of an eye pin is a loop; the other end is straight (that straight shank can be any length)
Eyepins can be bought at the craft or beading store, or you can make your own from a length of wire. (this one isn't properly "closed" for some reason) (look down under Eye pins)


A "loop" can be formed at the end of the straight section of a head pin or eye pin, or at the end of a plain wire
... this allows the pin or wire to act as a connector (can be joined to something with a hole, or to another loop)
.........(loops can also be made in the middle of a wire length, though it's not as common)
...the loop will resemble a jump ring, but it will be just one part of a length of wire

plain loop (making) (look down page)
this loop is formed on a short eyepin (or piece of wire with a loop already formed at one end), after slipping a bead or two onto the shank... this allows the beaded wire to connect to something else at both ends
Samara's lessons on making loops at the end of head pins, or in the non-looped ends of eyepins for connecting to things or to other eye/pins (bottom of the page) (gone)

A loop can also be created as a "wrapped" loop so that it will have several rings around its "neck" when finished:
*'s lesson on making a (single or) double-ended wrapped loop which can have a bead in-between, for a "chain" of beads, or to hold dangles (shows it being made at the end of several jump rings)
several lessons on making wrapped wire loops
briolette loop (for side-to-side holes and 2 ends of wire --loop last)

Micki’s lesson on using two connected wires to wrap and create a somewhat fancy top loop for a flat oval stone (or whatever)
Heather R's lesson on making your own wrapped "eyepin" from a length of wire to insert into danglies (Tropical Goldfish Necklace) though she uses a thick wire….
simplymad's lesson on making series of wire loops (lying next to each other) for holding dangles (two additional loops added on the ends above to embed in clay) (


I go to  and read all their jewelry making tips. Lots of information there. And many (lessons) on using wire. You can subscribe to the newsletter and it will tell you when new stuff is up.   Kim2

The necks of eyepins can be cut to a shorter length with wire cutters (or nail clippers) and then inserted into the top of a raw clay earring, dangle or pendant to make something which other pieces can connect to. It's best to use a glue (a superglue or liquid clay, or possibly a white glue meant for metal like Gem Tac) in the hole as well, or use a mechanical type hold to keep the wire from slipping out.
one type of mechanical hold would be is to zig-zag the end of the straight part which will be embedded in the clay.  The clay is then kind of pressed back around the wire, especially at the top so that nothing is visible from the outside.  Glue can be used or not.
you can embed the loop in the clay. I make a sort of S shape of wire - large at the bottom and small at the top (the top loop sticks out of the clay). I then press a small pancake of clay onto my worksurface and press the large loop into that. Then I press on the clay that is going to be the pendant, making a sandwich and allowing the small loop to emerge at the top.. . . the big loop of wire curves inside most of the length of the pendant. A small loop embedded could pull out so I go for a big loop that is only a little smaller than the overall pendant size.  Sue……..

(see more on wires, eye pins, loops, etc., in Wire, and in Pendants/Cording > Top Loops)

liquid clay works great if you're inserting the metal finding into a raw clay item (lesson):
..put some liquid clay on the metal... (make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack" it in ...Bake... holds just great.

separator bars or spacer bars ...usually flat, metal bars, with two or more holes in them
...two or more cords (with a few beads threaded onto them) are threaded through a separator bar ...more beads may be added to each cord, then another bar threaded on, etc.
... their purpose is to hold together separate rows of beaded cording wherever they are placed
... used for bracelets, earrings (especially "chandelier" type), necklaces, or whatever

separator bars (some fancy), and some end bars

end bars ... small metal bars which have holes or loops to allow 2 or more cords to be attached to them when using multiple rows of beads in one piece... usually another loop or hole (on opposite side) to allow clasp to be attached

Tammy's lesson on making a clover shaped connector (for bracelet)

...some people also use telephone wire because its coating will actually bond with the clay.  I remember someone saying that they "created" telephone wire by coating regular wire with two coats of (tinted, in their case, because it would show) Liquid Sculpey --dried between coats.  Doing that on the bottom of the wire before inserting it would probably give a strong bond without bending the wire.  Diane B.

(crimp beads are often used to prepare a cording for an ending connector
....for most info and links on those, see above in Cords > Plastic-covered Wire > Crimps & Knots)

(see info on using bead caps, clamshell, etc. above in Cording & Stringing)

(see more on using loops and U's on pendants, in Pendants-Cording > Top Loops & U's )

fishing swivels & snap swivels (usually brass; all types swivel)
--barrel swivel, top row --brass bead between two end loops; there are several wraps of wire before each loop
--snap swivel, second --barrel swivel, with a safety-pin type (asymmetric) connector attached to one end (this "snap" part consists of a loop, covered area to hold the end when closed, and a larger connector)
--interlock snap swivel -- barrel swivel, with a safety-pin type (rounded) connector attached to one end
--3-way swivel --3 barrel swivels attached rigidly to a ring (has potential for earrings or other dangles?)
--crane swivel --same as barrel swivel, but no wraps of wire

 I really like using fishing snap swivels in jewelry. They're strong, durable, water-proof, inexpensive and readily available. You can find them in K-Marts, Wal-Marts, sporting goods and, of course, fishing supply stores. They come in brass, nickel and black. They come in various sizes; the #1's are the biggest and sturdiest. 

They can act as decorative connectors between round, tube or any kinds of beads or wire shapes or other bits (instead of jumprings, etc.), or be strung together
-- attach danglies to something else (...when used on a pendant, it can lay flat easily)

Now, what did you use to attach the cord (to the pendant Altoid box), Desiree?  (It would make a  cute little dress up purse.) Jules
Hey, Jules, that would be a great idea! I attached a couple of fishing snap swivels to the back of the box….I linked the buna cord to the swivels with a couple of jewelry springs. …I slipped the end of the buna cord into the spring and pinched the last loop down onto the buna so it couldn't pull out. . . . For the purse, you should also use glue or epoxy, just to make sure it wouldn't pull out. . . . The other end of the spring (with the upright loop) gets hooked into the loop on the swivel. You'll need an set of needle nose or chain nose pliers to manipulate the metal.
Here's another url of other types of swivels:
I just thought you don't really need to buna. After attaching the snap swivels to the sides of the heart, you could attach something like gold metal chain to the swivels.
For a purse, you might want to attach them to the sides of the heart instead of the back, to make the whole thing hang better (which I eventually did)... I attached the snap halves (lower potion in the pic) to the back of my mini Altoid box with a little clay.
. . .
~I glued the two heart shaped Altoid tins back to back using 5 minute epoxy. I recommend sandwiching the two tins between two large boards clamped together. I attached two size #1 snap swivels to the sides with a couple of heart shaped wads of clay. . .
I made the strap you see in the photo, but if you can get your hands on a little purse that has one of those long straps with spring loaded connectors that hook into D-rings, you may save yourself a little time and effort. Those connectors will easily attach to the swivels. Desiree

One of the scouting sites suggests making make a bracelet out of fishing swivels …they put (seed) beads on 10-14 swivels, connecting them all together ….they suggest having needle nose pliers available since sometimes they’re hard to open. 
…tiny polymer round beads or tube beads could be substituted
…or the swivels could be used to hang danglies.

swivels used as dangles (from a pendant) (gone?)

fishing swivels can also be used as swiveling "bails" to create reversible (flip-overable) pendants ... just embed the loop at one of the swivel into the pendant.... patsy turned me on to this idea. Laurel

snap fishing swivels used for bracelet on Carol Duvall show...seed beads plus a larger bead were placed on each locking part of the "safety pin" (after it was straighted some); midway in the beads, another snap swivel was added, or at end end a connector finding of some sort was added; she also hung a few charms off the swivels with plain swivels,1789,HGTV_3352_1399737,00.html (Oct 11, 02)

Wire for more on wire clasps)

to make a piece look more delicate small fancy metal clasps are good..... larger pieces can hold their own with a polymer clay type clasp. Dotty

types of clasps at Rings ‘N Things site:
*Desiree’s findings and clasps
Desiree’s lessons showing different techniques for attatching pendants and beads to wire, string, cord silk etc
~Kellie’s lesson on making a polymer ball and loop closure with rubber cording
here are a few more sites that kinda show how to do clasps (at the ends of the projects).  sunni
…aunt molly's tutorial -  
…Etcetera's Amethyst Heart Choker:  
…Bead Wranglers Irish Tendril necklace:  
lessons on various kinds of chinese knots…. Crafty Owl  

for wire hook clasps, see Wire > Basic Shapes

barrel clasps --fat, screw-together metal pieces with jump ring one end of each-- mine just fall off sometimes (even though glued in?)...though may be a problem mostly for heavier necklaces) Desiree
….I have problems with barrel clasps too, at times. Maybe some have faulty grooves, or whatever you call them. I especially dislike the
small ones, but since there are so many wonderful kinds of clasps, I use other kinds, and leave the barrel clasps to other people. As far as I'm concerned, they can *have* them! Randi
….Dianne C's semi-lesson on covering a barrel clasp with coordinating clay

cord tips --small metal tubes with a fixed and projecting "hole" at one end (glue on, or squish on?)

foldover crimps ...small rectangle of metal with fixed hole projecting from one side... cord is placed down center of crimp, then each side of crimp is folded over onto it and pressed tigntly with pliers

crimp coils (aka spring finding)---a small coil of wire acts as a tube (use like a cord tip)... crimp and/or glue..
... the last loop of the coil can be pulled out at 90 degrees from the coil to use like a jump ring
...a single or doubled length of cord end can be inserted into the open end of the coil (with glue or not)...then last coil at other end can be crimped down around the cording to hold it
...or use one technique at each end of coil?
...can be made or purchased, in various sizes
(somewhere at) ..
...I made bar & circle clasp (each part is linked to the buna cord with the help of a spring finding).
(lesson)  I pushed the ends of the buna cord into the springs, then pinched the last loop of the spring so it grabs  the buna cord. The last coil on the other end of the spring  comes already turned up. Using the jewelers flat nose pliers (a  must tool), I twisted open that loop and threaded it through the  clasp's loop, then closed the loop. That's it. Basically, you'll need:  - flat nose jewelery pliers  - necklace clasp (usually there are two parts to a clasp)  - 2 findings (e.g. springs) that finish the end of the buna cord  and serves as a bridge between the cord and the clasp  - sometimes jump rings, these can also be used as a bridge  between the spring and the clasp. A jump ring permits a little more twisting flexibility and also lengthens the necklace a tiny  bit. Desiree
(see much more on Buna in
Pendants & Cording > Cording > Rubbery Cords)

Marie's clay ends for thick cording

cone ends... cone shaped finding, mostly used to gather multiple strands into one finding
Carly's lesson on making your own end cap with a concave spiral of clay-gun rope, which is used as an end finding for multiple strands

magnetic clasps: Those I have tried...and i love them. I think I ordered them from Rio Grande. They've got a good strong don't forget customers/wearers with pacemakers should get a more traditional fastening. Laura A/Sparkle

A while back the question arose of how we could take 2 pieces of clay and thread them together like a nut and bolt does. Well, with a bit of help from my DH , I tried his Tap & Die set (used for re-threading stripped screws and such) It worked !!!! Took a steady hand and maybe I should have lubricated the clay somehow,but did I say *it worked*!! Tonja

self-loop ....for thicker cording (rubbery like Buna, or others?) can be looped back on itself then glued into a loop
...cut end of cording on a long diagonal with a sharp blade... form oval loop the size you want
...glue diagonally-trimmed end to cording with superglue
...large loop for clay bead or toggle ... or smaller loop for attaching cording to eyepin in bead, a jump ring, etc.
...can also wrap with fine wire the area where diagonally-cut cording attaches to rest of cording after gluing, or instead of gluing (see next)

back-wrapping a self-loop
...there's a nice looking finish which is quite strong for securing and also making a decorative finish around any thick cord (rubbery cording like Buna, round leather cord, etc.)... can also give an ethnic feel
....the end of the cord will be made into a small loop by turning it back on itself so that it can hold a jump ring or other finding
...... or made into a large loop if it will have a bead passed through it as a toggle closure
....this can be done with fine wire around any kind of cording... or with embroidery floss around a satin cord, etc.
(for lessons on doing this, see Pendants-Cording > Finishing, Tying)

another way is to use seed beads on tigertail for your loop
then you can run the tigertail back through a few beads and fasten it with a crimp bead (for more info in crimp beads, see Stretch Magic above).

My necklaces tend tend to have a very ethnic feel to them,so I string them on leather cord . . . if they are long enough to go over the wearers head, I close the ends by gluing them together with about an inch overlap and then wrap them with embroidery floss to match the colors of the piece. I got the idea from traditional Native American jewelry.

PINS ......Pinbacks, POSTS, Glues

see more more on attaching clay to flat metal findings below in “Barrettes” and in “Glues”


attaching …with clay and glue or liquid clay...or leather

One good way is to glue the metal pinback to the back of the pin with a superglue (like Krazy Glue or Zap-a-Gap) to hold it temporarily, AND then press a rectangle of clay over the bar of the pin back which extends onto the surrounding clay; this embeds the bar --you can add superglue or liquid clay on this piece too).

For the most secure hold on a pin back, I first use (superglue) Slo-Zap to hold the pin-back in place. 
...then I make a small, thin strip of clay the same color as the back of the pin ...I coat one side with liquid clay
...I then place the strip over the metal base of the pin back so that it laps over both top and bottom onto the back piece
...Once baked, this really holds!!   Dotty in CA
polymerclayexpress’ lesson on using this technique
...I temporarily glue the pinback on with Zap-a-Gap, which is a cyanoacrylate (superglue type glue.) I then cover the part of the pinback that touches the clay with a puddle of TLS & rebake it. That makes a *very* secure bond, so be sure you get the position right before you bake it. This is difficult to remove. Barb

(lesson from Linda Goff....using new clay on both sides of the bar)
1. Bake your pin
2. Put a very thin layer of liquid clay on the back of the pin where the pin back will go
3. Cut a thin sheet of clay (# 5-6 on pasta machine) three times wider and slightly longer than the pin back and place it where the liquid clay is on the back of the pin.  Press it on firmly.
4. Press the pin back firmly into the middle of that clay
5. Cut a sheet of clay (# 3 on pasta machine) three times wider than the pin back and short enough to fit on the top of the pin back without interfering with the hinge mechanisms.
.......Press firmly onto top of pin back and over lower layer of clay.  Straighten up edges but don't trim very much.
6. Make sure the pin mechanism works ok.... then bake either right side up or back side up

Kellie’s lesson on making this kind of covered pinback ("Simple Method," top of page)
Christel's mini lesson on making a textured cover for a pinback (for large oblong pin) (last 2 photos, steps 10-11)
Mia's lesson on making this kind (she says to use enough TLS so it can ooze through the holes in the pinback.)

You just need a dot or two of the superglue here and there, depending on the size of your clay pieces.
...once you put your pieces together, there is no repositioning (especially if you used the instant hold type superglue).
...if you make a boo boo, pull the pieces apart right away, clean or scrape the spot where the instant glue is, and start over. Geo

Kellie's lesson on covering the entire back of the pin with clay (which yields a "hidden," very finished looking back)
...she cuts 2 holes for the extruding parts of the pinback in a backing piece the same size as the partially baked (?) pin with small Kemper cutter or drinking straw
...then creates a sandwich with the pin and the new backing, using a bit of liquid clay
...textures the backing clay once it's sandwiched
You could do it all in one baking, I just usually don't. why? ....well, I make the pin first, the pretty part... and I partially bake it. this way, when I attach the pin backs, I don't mess up the pretty part of it, and then bake for the full length of time.... it can be done either way, it is up to you! Kellie ("Advanced Method," at bottom)

using a leather scrap, instead of clay, to cover the entire back of the pin
...I bought a bag of leather scraps ... thin suede pieces, soft glove leather, etc.
.......after I bake my pin, I glue on the pinback
...then I cut a piece of the leather to match the entire back of the pin exactly ... punch holes in it so the pin and posts fit through... and glue the leather to the back. ...... It makes a nice neat back. Marty aka Marlene

(liquid clay only) ...I've used liquid clay as the pin back glue with much success!  I bake the piece, having pressed the pin back into it before baking.  After, I place the pin back into the groove it made and squeeze some liquid clay over it, bake again.  Works great. Ginny 

attaching with clay only:

After a few trials with different methods, my favorite is to bake the item to be made into a pin, then attach the pinback with a piece of clay and rebake. Desiree
Sit your barpin down flat and roll out some clay on #3 on your pasta machine. Cut out a rectangle that fits in the middle of the bar pin, press  it down real good and cut the  two sides down with about a 1/4 inch overlap. You bake and glue it to your baked, cooled, jewelry all cases, hold your pieces down for awhile, moving your fingers to press on all surfaces to get a uniformly glued piece.


Since polymer clay will soften slightly while hot, IF the pin front is very dimensional from embellishments, etc.
... you can place it on a small cloud of polester stuffing or batting to bake it or use other support methods discussed in Baking >Support
... or bake the clay pin first, and add the clasp afterwards (and rebake if you've used clay or liquid clay)
...if the pin is very large and flat, but still dimensional on its face, you may have to figure out some way of additionally supporting it while baking. DB

Tallie created a special baking surface for pins where the front is baked with the pinback attached, becuase the pin can slump
...she makes a shallow box top ...cuts a rectangular slot out of it ...then lays the pin on it, front side up, so the pinback sticks through

I coated (my waterslide transfer pins with a couple of coats of Future and let dry overnight.... next day when I turned them over to bake a pinback on, most stuck to the bottom of my foil pan... I also tried this without Future first, and same thing ... do they hafta be coated with liquid clay? Kim K.

If you want to use a coating of sealer, on a transfer or just for gloss, you can't bake the pin so the sealer touches that surface or it will stick. could instead create the background clay without the transfer, add the pinback and bake (then add the decal and Future sealer ...this way you don't have to bake again. ...or place the pin on polyester stuffing in a disposable aluminum pan to bake. Patty B.
.....or bake pin and pinback (right side up) on a piece of cardboard with a small rectangle cut out of it (see Jewelry > Pinbacks)

Linda Goff added 3 tiny stamp impressions to decorate the rectangle of clay that covers the metal of the fastener.  Very cool!  Dianne
...I saw a tip at Quilt Junction to run a piece of clay through the pasta machine with a piece of lace or other texture sheet, and use that as a back when you assemble pins.

I glued on a pin back right in the middle of the pin and then covered the shaft with a thin tab of polymer clay.  It looks neat and tidy, however when you wear the pin it has a tendency to "flop over", like it's not weighted properly  Do you put your pin backs nearer to the top of the PC pins? Sue
...I try to put it on the top quarter of the pin.  I also try to use the biggest pin back that will fit and not show on the front of the pin too. I've only had the floppy thing happen when I've made the top part of the pin too narrow where I can't attach a pin back. Susan
…some of the ones that hang the best have some dangles from the bottom to act as a counter balance.... susie
…I've found that the cheap pinbacks are too deep--about 1/4"--- and make the piece stick out too far--as well as flop over. The really good pinback is much shallower and the perfect solution for the "flops"… Jeanie
…plus on the good ones, the entire back can be adhered to the pin, while the "cheap" ones have those bent-up sides on them. . .  I know Rings N Things sells the more expensive ones and I think Rio Grande does too. Susan
… I've made my share of "floppers," too.  You can do a test drive on pin back placement by temporarily sticking the back to (each) pin to see how it hangs. could use that stickum stuff for posters (blu tak?) or even tape (just make sure to remove all the adhesive before you put the pin back on in its permanent alcohol rub will do it). Marla

The problem with having a pin "tug" at the lighter types of fabric can be helped a lot by placing a small piece of felt (in a color that won't show through the fabric) and pinning the pin through both fabrics.... I often give customers a piece when they buy one of my pins DottyinCA

I hope the pins that get the vertical pinback are lightweight (as many pc pieces are.)
....You need to think of the drag of weight on the fabric to which the item will be pinned. (Silky blouse or summerweight dress, not just jackets.) The advantage of the horizontal pin back for most applications is that it spreads the weight of the pin over two areas of the fabric. In the vertical arrangement, all the weight of the pin pulls on the top hole. Having the fastener at the bottom end is the better of the two vertical choices.
....Has anyone tried solving this by making a clay cover for a horizontal pinback (like you would for a barette) and then gluing the vertical clay piece over it or dangling the main piece (pendant style) from a ring or loop set into the clay that covers the horizontal pinback? Guess you would have to plan that as part of the design. Karen in WNC

maybe 2 tie tack-type pins (one at each end of the pin) could be used instead of a regular pin back .I remember one of the more prominent artists (Celie comes to mind but not sure if it was her or not) making very long, thin pins and doing this. Helen P.

I don't immediately put a pinback on a clay piece which has a transfer which has used the toner that which doesn't dry until it's baked (some of the newer photocopiers).. I do it at a second baking. transfer is done on a fairly thin sheet of clay ...I bake it first
.. then I set it into a piece of raw clay and do the adornmentt...then bake again. DottyinCA

more on glues for backs

I glue metal to back clay (barrettes) with one of the polyurethane glues. Right now I'm using Elmer's ProBond polyurethane Ultimate Glue. ...Gorilla glue is another brand with the same properties.
...These glues expand a bit when they cure, and they take 24 hours to fully cure. Read the directions as it says there is a bit of moisture required.
... I apply the glue to the baked clay, and mist the finding with water before applying it. Be consistent but sparing with the glue as it will foam up slightly. ...I check them after an hour and if there is more glue present at the edges of the finding than I want, I will wipe it away with a cotton swab. Patti K.

I've tried the white vinyl glues made for attaching jewels to fabric (Jewel-It, Gem Tac, etc.),. . .  and found they work very well. As you can machine wash and dry these glues, temperature is not a problem
...Some are fairly thin bodied, so use a second coat on porous materials. 
...They easily bond to metal, a big plus for me. ...Katherine Dewey

I used E-6000 for some time, but found that too often a pin back or earring back came off, especially in extreme heat. . . . (for more on the failure of E-6000 –Goop and also superglues in hot weather, or other hot situations, see Glues)

Never glue E-6000 or Goop to a hot or warm piece ... the fumes it creates are horrid! Dotty

I switched to Zap-a-Gap Slo (a slow-setting version of one brand of superglue, with fillers) and have had few problems since. . Dotty

My larger (thick heart) pins are slightly concave on the back (to lighten the weight, and hold the pin closer to the fabric). I sometimes make an impression of the pin back into the clay before curing. That way, when I glue it, there is a snug holding groove, and the pin back is less likely to fall off. (I don't bother with applying a thin slab of solid-color clay to the back, like some do)
...I use superglue for polymer clay. It, as well as all other glues, can eventually fail, so the pre-formed groove helps to hold (the pinback)
...I also use a careful application of Flecto Varathane over the dried glued area (careful to avoid the locking mechanism and the pin itself!) Elissa

I also always rough up the clay where the piece will be glued, and also the back of the pin back or earring post.  Dotty

liquid clay works great if you're inserting a metal finding into a raw clay item (lesson):
..put some liquid clay on the metal... (make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack" it in ...Bake... holds just great.

some of the parchment papers in the US come with a silicone coating (mostly the recycled paper in the gourmet grocers will have this kind ...usually says on the outside of the box if it's silicone treated).
...clay baked on it has difficulty holding findings which were attached with
glues and epoxies took me a while to figure why my pin backs were falling off after using the same stuff to attach them for 9 years. It was fine when I just returned to baking on regular paper on my cookie sheet.  Cary

There is a pin finding that has a metal loop attached to the pin back, so that the one attachment on the back of a piece of jewelry can be worn either as a pin or a pendant.
…The pinbacks are 1.5 in, and have a double loop in the top for the neckchain, cord or whatever to go through. The stock number on the bag is 631-240. It is a package of 10.  I can't put my hands on the catalog at the moment, so I can't tell you the price.
….Rings and Things in Spokane, WA carries the finding you are talking about
…I used to use those types of pinbacks...but, when the wearer gets a
bend in any of the pin parts, it becomes almost impossible to EASILY flip that little circular part I found this other type (Fire Mountain), I decided I liked it *much* better.  My customers do too...also the pins "lay" a little closer to the clothing.
…I have some stick pin findings (can't remember where I found them) that have an eye on the top (that curves around to hang down) instead of a pad.  If the pendant has a wire loop or can be affixed to one, I just hang it from the eye.  It tends to slip down in the cloth I'm wearing it in so that all of the stick part of the pin is hidden, because of the weight of the dangle, but that's ok, I can wear my pendant on my jacket!

safety-pin pinbacks:... suitable for childrens crafting and sometimes usable for adult crafts too (lesson):
Open the safety pin. Scratch the back of the baked clay and then put the pin on top of that. Take a small square sheet of polyclay and cover the pin. Push the sheet to the back so that it is sticking well. Let rest at least 6 hours (to really bond) and bake in manufacturers recomended temperature and time. Works.
I use this for items like party name tags and other small decorations etc. that do not have to stand up to a lot of time and abuse in order to reduce the expense of making them.... I do not suggest those for sellable items.
...there are lots of sizes of safetypins too. PöRRö

(see above for attaching to pinbacks)

...(most pin photos are found on the pages dealing with the particular technique used for making them, rather than in this sub-section. …if you want, you can find each instance of the word “pin” or “brooch” used anywhere at Glass Attic by doing a search at the Search Function on the bottom of the homepage.)
...(because pins can be very similar to pendants, see Pendants+Cording)
...(for framed pins, see Frames > Small Frames for Pins-Pendants)

Cristel’s lesson on reducing a cane, then using a slice on a background for a pin
Trina's pin using a brass frame from  (back with raised frame?)
pins from "canes slices sheet" (cut out)

Sharon M's lesson on fan-folding diagonally a small powdered-then-textured 1/16" thick, 3 1/2 x 3" rectangle of clay (from which she's removed a 1" triangle at one corner) with a chopstick, then pressing the folds together near the trimmed corner, and wrapping several times then "tying" there with a strand of clay (in a square knot), to make a pin (at Fimo Clay Pin)

Another option is a button cover. I made a "pin" that I wanted to wear at the throat (it has a dangle) and I put a button cover on it. I wear it only with a blouse that buttons to the throat, but it really makes the outfit. Sherry B.
 (I suppose a person could plan to wear something that way, and deliberately SEW a button onto a garment in position for this use, as well.) 

Cheryl's seed-bead framed pins (using Iron-On Pellon and paper) --for instructions, see Mixing Media >Seed Beads
(lesson) I glue the I put the polymer piece to a piece of non-woven material (Pelon), bead around that, trim the excess and finish  the back by reinforcing with glued on thin cardboard  which is then backed by fabric or suede.  My question  to anyone who uses beads with Polymer clay is how  would one attach a pin back to a contruction like this?
I've made several pins like this and I cut slits in the suede, slip the the pin clasp and the pin 'arm' thru the slits and then glue the pinback to the cardboard or whatever that's hidden behind.  It make a very neat finish.  I also whip stitch the suede to the nonwoven backing and it finishes the edges nicely as well. Carolyn

Jane Pollack's "batiked" egg front ovals... like lightweight oval cabochons…she cuts and oval shape from front of an egg with Dremel & epoxys the back, to use as pin or earrings (or pendants) ...she puts a kind of mosaic look on the oval (but hers are actual batik),1158,CRHO_project_8191,00.html

Alison Ingham’s ancient-look pins, mixed media, clay gun extrusions, stones, etc. (click Enter... then click on Brooches for many more) 
*LadysMaidJewels Medieval, Renaissance, etc., pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder and jewels (gone)
Mary’s pins, including window pins, stained glass, etc.
Lisa’s assemblage pins
Dayle's "openable book" pins, hinged with cording

CD shards used for making pins (Sally) -- lessons  (covered with UTEE)  mixed media, feathers
(more on CD's and their shards in
Onlay & Covering)  

lesson on tiny vase pins (for holding real or polymer flowers)... made by covering single bolo tie findings... for more flowers and wider pin cover two bolo findings and leave area of clay between

I solved the problem of my (projecting) wings breaking off by reinforcing the back - I used a piece of thin brass sheet (any metal would've been fine) and cut it to just less than the size of the back of the butterfly. Then I flooded the back with 5 minute epoxy and clamped it to the metal. I was lucky in that all I had to do to the front was reapply the varnish over the clay/pearlex surface. Alan V.
...I also have some pins that may have the same problem.... Sue

Scarf Holder

…would it be possible for you to attach your transfer to a "scarf tube" made of clay?  I saw some scarf tubes in catalogs lately and think they could be made by baking your clay around a cylinder of the right diameter and then attaching it to your transfer.  I don't know the shape of your transfer, but you might even want to bake some wire into the scarf tube to use to attach to your transfer after baking. Here's a url for a site that carries scarf tubes so you can see what I'm talking about.
To wear the tube on her shoulder, your friend would simply thread each end of the scarf through in opposite directions. Once you decide on how big around you want the tube to be, you could  build a "form" for it out of heavy paper, like card stock, and scotch tape.  You could even embellish the tube to compliment your transfer, as I'm sure some of the tube would show. Marti

Jenny's scarf rings (holders)


most .earring photos are found on the pages dealing with the particular technique used for making them (rather than here)
To find many examples of polymer clay earrings on the web (will be the quickest way to see the most), use these
Google results for polymer earrings:
OR to find earring examples onlyi at GlassAttic:
.....use this Google results page: (then click on Cached for each one ...earrings will be in yellow)
.....or on any page at GlassAttic, hold down Ctrl. key + click f... the enter the word earrings in the search window

Barbara McGuire's lesson on using powders sporadically on the surface before texturing sheets of clay, cutting them into shapes with a template, baking on the curved side of an upturned glass bowl, then using wire to make a connector and decorative dangling spiral for two freehanging (diff.sized) leaves for earrings,1789,HGTV_3352_1399580,00.html

Tonja's various earrings... dangle
Connie's partial blooms (indiv. cane slice onlay method) on paddle-shaped earrings

*LadysMaidJewels Medieval, Renaissance, Tudor, etc., pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder and jewels (gone)
Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces & chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems 

Heather R's lesson on making self-coiled loops to insert into the top of danglies (or earrings) (Tropical Goldfish Necklace)

Nanetta's lesson on using a length of wire to pass vertically through a pendant or earring... she makes a simple coil at the top and also at the bottom to hang a dangly on

connecting bead-and-wire components together as components

post earrings: 
...Roll a small ball of clay and flatten it out into a circle. ...Poke the metal post through the middle of it, run it thru to the end, sit it (wide end down, of course) down on your baking tray and smoosh the clay down nice & even, so that the circle of clay is now flat on the tray with the post pointing up...bake it with your earring piece and glue them together after they're cooled.
...also see methods for adhering polymer clay to metal findings like earring posts, above under "Pinbacks" (more detail)

post-type "faux spacer" earrings with clay behind ear also (embedded post "stop"?, or none needed?) ... so earring is in two halves --one in front of ear, the other behind, with (steel) post between them
..."ear buckles" with steel stems

clay hoop earringssplit some old canes in half (lengthwise), fold to form the hoop with the flat side out. Embed a small post or just a length of Artistic Wire in the end with TLS. Put a little more TLS around the outside of the wire and bake!!… I use -1/2 inch lengths of about 1/4 inch canes (Skinner Blends are perfect for this). . . syndee

Are your ear cuffs made of polymer clay? Do you put wire inside the cuffs? Kay wire... just a "C" of polymer clay. PC is nice for ear cuffs because it's relatively lightweight. Carrie

for purchased metal hoop earings ... after slipping your bead(s) onto the hoop, bend the free end up just a bit to allow it to slip into the metal hole at the other end

threader earrings ..... ear strings, etc.
..long "string" of chain (or other material, usually metal) which is threaded through an earlobe, then hangs down on both sides of the lobe ..held in place by friction
one end is stiff, or has a stiff bit attached, to facilitiate threading
....they vary come in diff. lengths and vary as to additions, stiff areas, etc.
....if it's mostly chain, it can be pulled through to any length
...danglie things can be added to some... (beads, charms, etc.)
........could also use tiny clay bits... or tiny clay tube beads??
.......dangles can be attached (temporarily or permanenty) on the free end whole side could be stiff and decorative... one had a stiff U in the middle for resting in the hole
...comfortable because the tiny chains are very lightweight, flat and flexible
...sterling silver or ___gold
...for those with multiple piercings... loops, wraps, and weaves can be created by threading any way you want through any number of holes
brand are mostly chain (many photos of movie stars wearing them)

for streched ear lobes
There is controversy over whether and how to use plug earrings made from polymer clay in stretched earlobes
....some feel it's okay to use polymer clay for plugs
in stretched lobes as long as certain guidelines are followed
....some feel it's okay to use polymer clay for plugs as long as no clay part is in direct contact with skin
......... there are ways though to avoid having lobes comes in direct contact with the clay (see below)
....some feel that it's never okay to use polymer clay in any way in stretched earlobes, ever, period

if direct contact (guidelines):
......most agree that it's not okay to use (even baked) clay anytime before skin is completely healed, just in case there's any ingredient in the clay which has not been completely cured all the way to the center and made inert so that it could leach out --especially over time
i only wear clay plugs when i've been at a certain size for a good long time. kathleeenalice
......many agree that it's probably not okay to leave baked clay in earlobes for too long at a time (espeically since sleeping can pull on the lobes and plugs) ears are pretty sensitive...I dont wear my polymer clay plugs 24/7.... I'll just wear them for the day then take them out before bed. I havent had any problems with them. peppertree
"ear skins" (silicone tubes, flared at each end... come in various sizes and colors),GGLC:1969-53,GGLC:en&q=%22ear+skins%22
....silicone eyelets that are rounded so it looks like you're holes are bigger...then I wear smaller-sized jewelry through the earskins. chibii
PTFE Tape (Teflon-type tape):
...if i were to wear my plugs for a longer period, i'd wrap them in PTFE/teflon tape... also
i always make sure plugs are fully cooked. kathleenalice
...I always wrap the area that touches my skin with ptfe tape
--just wrap it around the clay plugs...overlap it a few times tape sticks the same way cling wrap does... sticks only to itself
......I buy it at a regular hardware store (no favorite brand)...the width is about ¾ of an inch
......ptfe is the most biocompatible product around... it's safer than titanium.
ars anima
...PTFE film tapes are "chemically resistant"

...some PTFE tapes seem to come with a thin layer of pressure-sensitive silicone (which should cling to itself), which should also be safe
there are plugs made entirely of silicone, so it shouldn't be a problem. ars anima
...PTFE tape was advised by a body piercer so it should be legit. crescentfresh
....the tape does work too (I've stretched with it, putting layers on gradually), but it does require a lot of changing because it gets gross. chicii
...i've also used PTFE tape also for wrapping plugs to increase their gauge. crescentfresh

...(note: If PTFE film tape is exposed to temperatures above 400°F, small quantities of hazardous vapors may be released)
Other Ways to avoid direct contact:

.....decorate plain stainless steel, titanium, glass, can get slightly flawed jewelry really cheap at some body jewelry shops then customize the parts that do not contact skin with polymer clay. VirgoWolf
.....get some tunnels and fill 'em. VirgoWolf
.....add clay only to the out-facing ends of safe plugs ...and/or dangle clay from the ends
.....have just the parts of the plug actually in the lobe be metal or another totally safe material...then make the clay parts of the plugs extend outward, or even curl around, outside the lobe's skin.

To keep an earring from spinning around so the pattern can't be seen (facing the wrong way), I either use an eye-pin or bend the tip of the wire into a circle, like an eye-pin... then thread the bead onto the pin as usual, and just pull the 'eye' part into the (raw) bead to seat it firmly inside and then bake..... the bead wont turn now, so do be sure to turn the top part of the pin in the right direction for it to sit the right way round on the ear fitting. Shelley
....The best way I've found to get beads not to spin is to take needle-nosed pliers and bend the part of the headpin that will be inside the bead hole into a slight zigzag shape. As I pull it into the bead hole, the points of the zigzags kind of seat themselves into the more flexible polymer of the bead. This has worked really well for me with all sizes and shapes of polymer beads. Julia S

earring "trees" and stands and displays
... mybasic strategy is to start off with regular old baling wire. I twist and branch off the wires to create a 'wire' tree. Then I apply the polymer clay to the substructure made of the wire, leaving a little wire at the end of each branch then making that end a little hook. . . tjturner
...mine is a flat piece of clay baked part way around on a coke can; then I added the base at the bottom and baked again; it's open in the back (a freestanding, curved, shield-shape with onlays and holes for the earrings). . . The finish is a combination of rub 'n' buff and some very thin acrylic paint on top of it for the tones. BriAnna
...Celie's "stands" for earrings... she curves slightly a long heavy wire and forms one end into a loose spiral... two wires like this are placed into a polymer base (and crisscrossed in the curved areas once or twice for design purposes)

...Mags' 2 heavy wires, pressed into clay-covered wood base (or all clay).. pulled together with bead or wire wrap (twice), then extend outward (as arms) with simple hook on end (to hold 2 earrings)
wire display "trees" from which to hang/display small items (bundled wires in base...spray up and out, ending in open spirals) ...basic arrangment is "fountain," tiered, natural, etc.
...Michelle R's lesson on making a Native American figure standing on a (clay-covered) wood base, with a long wire (spear) held horizontally and another thick wire something-or-other extending horizontally from the head to hang earrings on ... the simple body is made from strong wire (14 gauge), with 2 sheets of patterned clay wrapped around it for clothing (pattern for upper part not shown?), with a clay face added,,HGTV_3226_3857546,00.html
...Thumbelina made a 4-5" saguaro cactus with a large sombrero to hold some of her jewelry...her rings hang over it's "arms," and her post earrings fit through holes in the hat brim (figure is top heavy so is created on a base, which could be a bit wider)... made from Model Magic but would be better from polymer clay
...the trunk could be polymer clay formed around a bunch of twisted wires, with each wire bent down to make an arm at the proper height, or you also could tightly wrap aluminum foil around the wire(s) if you want, to save clay... just don't leave air pockets.With an armature inside the saguaro couod be fairly tall and thin because it would be strong ... it might need a reasonably wide base though to compensate for the wide hat so it wouldn't tump over! Diane B.
....Monterra made one too
for more ideas on "stands" for hanging or attaching earrings, an/dor displaying them , see Shows > Displays > Necklaces, Earrings, Pins Especially)
Donna Kato's lesson on covering a non-flat wood frame with long strips of clay (then cane slices?) over a coating of dried permanent white glue
...after baking she glues a piece of wire mesh (window screen, with edges folded back first) in the frame to hang earrings from,1789,HGTV_3239_1370872,00.html

Alison Ingham’s ancient-look earrings, mixed media, clay gun extrusions, stones, etc.
Liz's various flat shapes earrings
unusual “earring pins” …embellished wire rising into outer curve of ear, from regular ear hole

metal allergy..."hypoallergenic" (wire/metal) means it's less likely to cause allergy than "regular" (metal), whatever that is, so it doesn't necessarily mean a whole lot. ...Allergies to metals happen when some of the metal leeches from the earring post and reacts with your ear. But niobium/titanium is not supposed to leech..... there are plastic stud findings at Rings & Things, but there's the minimum order... btw, in bulk, silver earwires are less than 50c apiece. ....of course, there's the option of making your own earwires, which would be really cheap. hello summer!
...hypoallergenic usually just means that there is no nickel in them (what causes problems in most people). Some things labeled surgical stainless steel are labled hypoallergenic even lots of them have nickle it really depends on how severe the allergy is. ... plastic earwires are damn near impossible to find..... sterling silver is kind of expensive, but worth it ... or a nice coat of clear nail polish keeps the itchies away for a few months until it wears off and you have to reapply it. something weird

for much more info on earring types, making your own ear wires & earrings,
and tips on earring "stops", etc., see

(& other hair accessories)

all kinds of hair ornaments may be sold on consignment for you by owner-operated hair salons (probably not franchised ones)... Meduza


*Jenny P's beautiful, Indian (Navajo?)-like,
bargello-ed ikat
canejane's various barrettes

Shellee's kids barrettes (bear face glued to center of barrette…made with triple ribbons, & onlay)   
(see also the 5-strand braid below under “Bracelets,” for using on a barrette as well)
Barrette Swap
Kellie's various barrettes
Sarajane's many barrettes
many flat barrette patterns at Polka Dot Creations
trapezoid strips of organic-type fauxs joined to make barrettes
Lindly"s applique-mosaic barrettes

flower pattern sheet barrettes, with thin gold rope frame
Adorables' animals & whimsical barrettes, jewelry, etc.

Amy K's houses, faces, flowers, etc....thick, non-round slices for bracelets, watches (click on Watches)
Helene's barrette swap?
Flo's onlaid barrettes (flowers, etc.) (website gone +couldn't find at picturetrail)
Kirsten’s chrysanthemum cane, and clay-gun rope with center medallion barrettes

hair ornament swap (all kinds of barrettes, hair holders, picks)

Barrettes are often rounded rectangles of somewhat flat clay which are attached to the top of barrette forms (available in various sizes at craft stores and jewelry suppliers). Though these can be embellished in 3-D, they'll be referred to here as "flattish" --as opposed to the same forms with beads attached.

Flat barrettes can be made from canes, mokume gane or marbled clay, have inclusions or onlays or leafing or dangles, or just anything.

the clay for flattish barrettes can be prepared in various ways: 
--make a
base and bake, then embellish and bake again …or embellish before baking, then bake…. or bake base, and glue on various clay or non-clay embellishments
--make a
large cane the same size as the barrette top you want, and use one thick slice from it
--put together a number of
cane slices
……then flatten them with a brayer or in the pasta machine (both orientations if you want to retain the proportions of the design), or place a piece of parchment/patty paper over it and smooth well with finger;
……then cut the shape you want with a long blade (straight or bent)
--or do the same flattening as above with
other clay preparations such as mokume gane, crackled leaf, floating canes, mica patterns, etc., then adhere

shaping clay to fit a barrette finding:
--if the barrette top is small enough compared to the barrette finding, it can simply be baked onto the finding without drooping
--if it is large or if you prefer, bake the clay on top of a form such as a rounded piece of cardstock (index card) or anything else bakable which can go in the oven (a release isn’t usually necessary), then glue it onto the finding

attaching to finding (see loads of info below):
…..use "glue" during baking or after, or both... sometimes with pre-impression
…..attach with a mechanical clay hold (with or without glue)

I make a big rectangular cane... (approx a little smaller than the barrettes)... I cut a slice and put it through the thickest setting of the pasta maker...  This gives me a thin barrette size piece...  (I had to do allot of trial and error to get a sense as to what the right size of the cane should be and how thick to cut the slice...)
…I put the strip of clay on the top of the barrette, then flip it over. . . . For the back, I use # 3 sheets of clay sliced narrow, to cover the edges of the barrette finding (half of each strip is on metal, the other half adheres to the back of the clay; I put some on the ends too). Then I  smooth it out and bake, decorative side up.  The clay stays put, no need for glue, and is very nicely finished.

Baking on the barrette back is important…. I used to bake then glue, now I enclose the back with clay and bake.

I make a slab of the thickest setting on the pasta machine and decorate the surface in various ways with canes together to eliminate gaps, and put the whole thing through the pasta machine again so it is all in one piece. Then I cut the barrette top  out of this sheet. I usually end up with 4 or 5 at a time. Important to cut cleanly as there is less work later. (I use a pin held in a pin vise as my cutter.) . . . My "handy" husband cut some aluminum flashing bent to the curve of the barrette finding to place in the oven. Then I lay a piece of paper on the aluminum so the polymer doesn't go shiny on the back (fasten the paper to the curved metal with little pieces of scrap clay) Place the cut out barrettes on and bake. . . . I glue to the finding with Goop.  Shirley

I always bake the clay piece on the barrette to make certain the curve stays. If I am going to glue the barrette on, I push the clay tightly enough against the barrette to build in the ridge lines, bake the piece, pop clay off of barrette, add glue (either zapagap or E6000) and put  pieces back together.  Jeannine

for strong barrettes ...these cost more, but I always buy metal barette backs imprinted with "Made in France"... don't confuse these with "French-style" barrette backs which are made in Taiwan (and cheaper) ... there's a strip of metal that can pop out of place in the back
...the French-made backs are much much stronger and more durable (and are all one piece)...  I've never had one come apart. To demonstrate to customers, I would close a barrette over three fingers. Ouch!  But it illustrated how much thick hair can fit in one of those. 
...I always got the 84 mm, which is the largest, or next to the largest ...and I buy mine from Rio Grande. Irene NC

ATTACHING ... several ways:

When I made barrettes (and I made a *lot* of them), I baked the metal barrette backing with the clay, in order to get the curve just right.
....After baking, I glued them together with E-6000 glue.  Now I know others have experienced
problems with E6000 (only in heat?), but I think it's a matter of just following their directions:
  When the barrette has cooled, wipe both the clay and the metal with rubbing alcohol to remove any oils that may inhibit the glue action. Any metal jewelry findings you get have a thin coating of oil on them leftover from the machining process.  A quick swipe with alcohol removes it. E6000 needs to be used liberally or, as on their packaging, a "starved bond" may occur.  Just what it sounds like -- not enough.  I applied glue to the metal *and* to the clay, let them set for maybe 2 - 3 minutes, then pressed them together firmly.  Let it dry for 24 hours. E6000
stinks to high heaven, so do this outside or with a fan on. . .  It does remain flexible after drying, so you won't have a problem with the glue cracking off or separating the clay from the metal when the barrette needs to bend a bit around a lot of hair. I made and sold scores (maybe hundreds) of barrettes, and years later, customers make it a point to come to my booth at sho ws wearing them. Irene NC
…see more on glues to use with jewelry above in “Glues

My favorite barrettes, however use liquid clay as the adhesive
...coat  back of clay piece with layer of liquid clay.... shape piece to barrette
....add more liquid clay to coat the underside of barrette piece so that there is continuous liquid clay surrounding the top metal strip of the barrette ---be careful, however not too get the liquid clay
on the mechanism of the barrette, or it won't open and close.  Jeannine
~Mia's lesson on using TLS (liquid clay) to attach a barette back

liquid clay + mechanical hold with clay
.. I place a little liquid clay on the metal barette, then add the decorative clay on top of that.
....turn the barette over and place a bit more liquid clay on the metal
......then cover the metal with a flat piece of clay that covers the metal and extends beyond the metal to the clay part of the barette. Sally
..When I make barrettes, I use a thin piece of matching clay on the back side of the barette much like a piece of tape to attach the barette.
........I also use liquid clay to further strengthen the bond. ...if possible, I do this in the middle and at both ends. Gives the ends a finished appearance, as well.  Sally

2-part epoxy glues are also very strong (the slower the set, the stronger too), and some situations might get away with using a glue like E-6000

really-strong polyurethane glues (Gorilla Glue... Elmer's ProBond Ultimate polyurethane Glue)
(these glues swell while curing, so either clamp or weight... or keep wiping off excess that oozes out)
... they take 24 hours to fully cure. Read the directions as it says there is a bit of moisture required to acivate.
... I apply the glue to the baked clay and mist the finding with water before applying it. Be consistent but sparing with the glue as it will foam up slightly. ...I check them after an hour and if there is more glue present at the edges of the finding than I want, I will wipe it away with a cotton swab.
...I wear barrettes nearly every day and have been testing these for 6 months. I was confident in the glue enough to take some to a shop for sale just a few weeks ago. Patti K.

(see much more on attaching clay to metal findings above in Pins > Pinbacks)

liquid clay + wire mesh (lesson)
… this technique works with the real French-made barrettes, probably not with the imitation inexpensive variety.
1.  Make decorative clay part of barrette in correct curved shape.  I do this by pressing the barrette clay horizontally onto the outside of a huge (empty) 12 pound honey jar, which has just the right curve and holds lots of barrettes, and baking. Remove.
2.  Put light streak of
liquid clay down the middle of back of baked barrette where finding will go.  Cut strip of clay, #2 on pasta machine, slightly wider than finding and attach it to back of barrette on top of TLS.
3.  Cut a piece of Wireform screen so it will wrap around the base of barrette finding, and wrap it so it overlaps some at the top of the base - doesn't have to be 2 layers of screen.
4.  Press barrette finding into the strip of clay you've put on the back of the baked barrette.  Notice that clay squishes up into the wire screen wrapped around the base of the finding.  This is what holds the barrette on without glue.  Trim excess clay right up to the edge of finding base.
( do a second bake after attaching the finding to the baked barrette.  Bake the second time with the finding side down, sitting in a flat pan.) Linda Goff 

wire could also be used in some situations... perhaps by being embedded in the clay before baking (or run through holes in the clay) then being wrapped around some of the metal parts of the barrette or other metal finding

Beth's barrette made of same-size, but two alternating colors, of tiles...laid next to each other (with one image stamped across them all)

Suzanne's lesson on making shiny barrettes with the foil from a CD (not a pre-recorded one though)... she also stamped into the foil-covered clay with chain (...could also use other plastic backed foils, or even metallic leaf or powders)

I made a barrette danglies

Rio Grande has really big (deep) French barrette backs --like half circles-- for those blessed with a lot of hair. Sarajane

(for haircombs which can use these flattish pieces similarly, see Other Hair Holders below)

elastic ...and "cuffs"

(opinions differ as to whether elastics can be baked)
...yes, rubberbands can be baked (the ordinary types and nylon (-wrapped?) types which come in small package with multi colors) ..they will not melt at our baking temps (15 to 20 min.).... (common rubberbands will smell like rubber when heated, but do not break after testing) Garie
but will the heating cause them stretch out just a bit more quickly at a later time??)
...I think elastics cannot be put in the oven. Christina H.
Christel's lesson on making a ("rabbit") hair holder, using elastic both for holding the hair and for dangling the feet and hands (16” of total elastic)
...elastic runs through a hole in the baked rabbit and then is knotted... knot is hidden inside the hole (or could be any bead)... can secure with flexible glue or make knot really big so it's tight in the hole
(...the elastic simply dangling each foot is super-glued into a preexising baked hole)  (click on any photo to see enlargement)  (unfinished rabbits with clothing)
Adria's lesson on two leprechaun heads used with medium thickness black elastic

beads ....or rounded cuffs

I'd put in a recessed shank, and attach the elastic to it with a half-hitch knot, especially if you're set on using the thinner pre-made elastics.  It would hold well, especially if you then added a dab of E-6000 (or flexible fabric glue?) where it attaches to the polymer clay. Kathy N-V
…....Yes, I think I will experiment with that... I have also a lot of polymer clay beads, that might look nice sewn to fabric-covered elastic. Christina
....(cuffs about 1” tall --with a 2/3 to 3/4 gap) ...have a loop of elastic connected to a U shape (with a half-hitch knot) projecting in the inside of the center of the cuff (...the elastic is then twisted around a pony tail of hair, and the cuff is allowed drop back around the pony tail)

..I wanted to attach the elastic after baking, since the elastics always (at least for me) tend to break after some time(?)
......I also wanted to be able to change the elastic easily
(lesson) so I took a piece of wire and bent it into an "omega" shape Ω (a U with a tiny leg sticking out 90 degrees on each side)
...... I put the wire flat on the back of the baked and finished barrette, covered the lower part of the omega with white glue (liquid clay would of course be better) and covered it a flat piece of clay, leaving an uncovered loop of wire. ...and then baked the whole thing again. attach the elastic, I bent up the loop, put the elastic against the loop and bent the loop over the elastic. (this holds the elastic pretty well, but I wouldn't give or sell this to anyone, as it isn't very pretty) .Christina
….....Oh, I see. So you actually unbend and rebend the wire loop any time you want to replace the elastic thingie.
.......It seems like you could instead just leave a small gap between the end of the loop and the barrette, under which you could shove the elastic circle, but I guess they're too thick for that?  Or maybe the elastic would wriggle out?
......Maybe you could make a clay loop for the back, but not connect one end of it to the barrette, leaving a gap . . . then add some sort of one-way hinge or turn thing to act as a gate for the elastic??  There ought to be something that would work as a hinge actually attached to/inside the end of the shortened U. 
......Or you could also make a lever or something which would function as a turnable gate (that one would have to swing open and shut from the base though rather than from the end of the U loop).  Hmmm...more thought needed. Diane B.
...You know how the clips on the back of clip-on earrings works. If you had a hinged clasp similar to that that snapped open and closed to put the elastic in, they could be changed Dawn S.

I had thought of the loop being recessed because I was thinking more of how closely the barrette could be held to the head/hair.  If there were a large "shank" through which the elastic would fit, it might cause the barrette to stick out and
flop downwards a bit like some buttons do. Diane B.
….there are two things that support the barrette --the hair and elastic. When I wrap the  elastic around the hair, I put the barrette against the hair, and then wrap  the elastic until it is tight enough. This puts the elastic downwards from  the loop, and so the elastic supports the barrette.
......also, the elastic pulls the hair tighter, so the hair forms kind of an hourglass form, and  therefore supports the upper and lower end of the barrette.
.....With a thin elastic in a very small ponytail, the barrette did droop a bit, but not  really noticeably. With a thicker elastic the lower end is actually pushed  a bit up, but it doesn't look bad (drooping would look bad!). Christina H.

What I would suggest is a low-tech way of handling it: 
...use wider elastic that's covered with fabric, and sew it together.  It would be different than your original design, but would be quite pretty, and doable at home. Christina
(with beads glued to fabric, or sewn on?)

flat cuffs --these could be like the slightly flexible,. flat shape (rectangle, or rounded rectangle, or other) with a hole near each end, through which a stick is passed (forming the flat shape into a bit of an arch) to hold the hair ... common in the 1960's
---the usually-leather, older types were oval sheets of leather (or strong clay) in which two large holes were created (like eye holes in a mask) so that a wood pick could be inserted into the top hole on one side, slide under the hair, and thread back through the other hole from the underside to the top (the holes could be reinforced with grommets or otherwise, or wire mesh could be used to reinforce the whole cuff)
Rebekah’s and Lorie’s versions

Tonja's cuff with onlays ...short tapered stick may be clay over wire, or over another armature
Meduza's various shapes (some geometric, stacked with smaller layers... also butterfly, etc)

worms-coils... snaps ... combs

hair combs --simply glue a baked, thick, flattish polymer sheet or flattened rod similar to what you'd use on a barrette form to the top of a plastic or metal haircomb (with E-6000 or another strong, flexible glue)
...I also glued on s-shaped spirals of wire, etc. to the top of mine as embellishment (superglue). Diane B.

making tiny flowers (or other clay decorations or items) to attach to large clothing snaps for hair decorations (Sculpey may be too brittle after baking; use a stronger clay like Premo or Fimo) 
. . . I like it!! THANK you!!! The possibilities are endless!! you can wear snaps on your clothing too if it's thin enuf. .. .
…or how about earrings with fabric dangles you can attach snaps to? …….y'think they'd snap onto shoelaces?
…or snap a series of them onto some beading thread and make a necklace you can change with your mood! and and and and..... Sunni

Shellee’s hair worms, with string of beads hanging off the bottom/
We are working on an instruction sheet for the hair worms. They are really called polytwists, my kids call them hair worms! They work in all hair types and all lengths longer than the polymer part of the twist. Very little hair is used to hold the polytwist securely in place. I saw a plastic spiral hair accessory at a store in a mall and decided the clay would work great to make it. I have been beading hair wraps that clasp onto an EZ comb for the hair and that is where I have used the charms and wire. Shellee 
     Although I don't have a picture I could explain putting them in the hair you very simply. . . . You take a very small grouping of hair in the spot where you would like the hair worm to be.  Then starting at the top of the 'hair worm' start wrapping the 'hair' around the 'hair worm'.  As  you wrap the hair around in a circular fashion it becomes trapped the the center of the worm.  It is a very inventive device to display polymer clay and it even works well on hair that is normally too fine to hold hair ornaments.  One tip is to use flexible clay for the spiral part of the hair worm....people have a tendancy to want to bend the spirals and it helps them to last longer and makes them easier for the customer to put them on.  Helen
            The texture of the clay also aids in holding on to the hair.  I have an instruction sheet but BJ has not put it on my site yet.  Shellee
….(this) hair wrap is a long thin spiral with charms attached.Teresa
....I make my hair coils by hand just by simply rolling out a snake of Super Flex Bake and Bend polymer clay. I was also told that Kato Clay will also work but I can't purchase it yet in my area.... I then twist it around a knitting needle and bake right on the needle. I then add beads with a jump ring on the end. Hope this helps! Carolyn from Mass
...a clay gun could help extrude your snakes (esp. for thin ones). . . . There is an article by Marie Segal and syndee holt in Expressions magazine called "Cords of Clay," Nov/Dec 2002 ... Trina

many older/ethnic hair adornments (the enlargements don’t seem to work though)

beads on barrettes, bobby pins, metal clips

on how to create flowers and leaves on (folded, 18" 24 gauge) wire which is attached to the end of a bobby pin or a metal hair clip (be sure to get the ones with a hole at each end).. with petal pieces, leaves, from special shaped beads (Faceted Elegance)
. . . for bobby pin, doubled wire is atttached by passing through end, then passed by through itself... flowers components are added one at a time onto one wire then the wire is passed back through all but the top component, etc....if more than one flower is added, the wire is wrapped around the bobby pin next to where the next flower will be...other end of wire is wrapped around bobby pin end to secure
...similar techniques for hair clips

wire could also be used in some situations for hair clips... perhaps by being embedded in the clay before baking (or run through holes in the clay) then being wrapped around some of the metal parts of the clip

lesson on placing small beads in a row along the length of the top of the bobby pin using 3 ft. of 32 gauge wire (or larger)...pass wire through "head" end half its length, and place on table...keeping tension on wire at all times, crossing both sides of the wire over the top of the pin and under it... then put bead on one wire and pass other wire through it also in same from same end ...tighten so bottom (flatest) side is against wires... cross wires over top of b'pin and then cross underneath to advance to the next bead position... repeat for next bead...when finished adding, wrap wires several times & pass them through beads and trim to hide ends ..embellish with other woven-in beads, if you want

Tanya's beaded bobby pins (dragonflies, flowers --single/multiple ---one on end of each bobby pin, or smaller flowers interspersed with plain beads along length)... each pin has row of beads down length as well (look in left navigation bar for more)

long strands of mostly seed beads, attached to bottom of bobby pin with a wire passed (through it so it's doubled)... when in hair, can look like beads woven into strands of hair)

misc: ..can alternate beads or bead colors, or twist strand or strands of beads around pin, etc.

(...for Kraugomi's "hair sticks" made with large metal hairpins, see below in Hair Sticks)

Larger beads (polymer or non-polymer) can also be attached to barrette form backs ...there is a tiny hole on both ends of the regular barette forms ...removing at least the "pressure" bar attached to the top can make these easier to do (pull up then out
. . . (mini-lesson) attach wire to hole in top at one end, add a number of beads (beginning and ending with a smallish one) then attach wire to hole at other end (can't remember now if I wrapped the wire around the top after every bead to secure it or if it wasn't necessary (my barette was beaded symmetrically: med.metallic bead, solid polymer bead, two rounded metallic disk beads, leafed marbled bead, the larger focal metal bead in center ...then leafed, etc.) Diane B.

hair sticks

Omodtart's dark wood hairsticks with thick cane slice and small beads at top
Kraugomi's various hairsticks made on pencils? ... and on hairpins
Sunni’s wild wood hairsticks with mixed media (polymer clay, beads, Austrian crystals, feathers, doeskin and found items)
hair ornament swap
Kathleen M's lesson on making hair sticks with decorated ends
*Lorie’s hair sticks with small faces surrounded by (glow-in-the-dark leaves)
Tess' 2 hair sticks poked through a connected-wire-rings unit (looks like one of those collapsible wire educational toys that form diff. shapes)
Caroline’s hair sticks, with simple ball and wire twist on wood (pick?) (gone)

Shelley's beaded (polymer and metal) hair sticks or hat pins
….Glad you like the hat pins. They aren't a big seller, but every so often I get collectors who buy several at a time, so I find it's worth keeping them going. . . 
. . . As a more modern slant, I've seen people wearing them as a lapel pin, or in a jumper as a pin rather than using them traditionally in a hat. They also make for an awesome self-defense item!!  Shelley M.
...Marty’s Hat Pin swap

many real hair sticks in many styles (dangles, etc.; most sticks are around 6” long including embellished ends) (click on each category for many!)

*ways to use hair sticks in long or medium-length hair ... plus beaded-end hair picks (some polymer coverings?)

I made those oriental hair sticks out of ceramic type (?) Sculpey years ago.  They were fun to make,  Make sure you use a heavy floral wire as the armature, that will give it strength.  What's neat is that you can curve the ends and do all sorts of creative looks to them.  i painted mine with acrylic lacquer glazes. .

use a thick gauge wire in the center as an armature.. found it strengthens it quite a bit and can shape the top and body of the hairstick by curling and such…WyldMuse

~If you build the hairstick over a piece of steel music wire from the hobby store, it will work. Without the wire, it might flex too much. The other consideration would be weight.  . . .Covering wood might be lighter. Since I don't have enough hair to have ever used them, I don't know. . . . Jody

~The hardware store sells piano wire (same as “steel music wire”?) in tons of different diameters and you can cut it down to the length you find comfortable. A cut-off wheel on the Dremel works great for this - just wear safety goggles.
Also, if you have access to any place that does welding, welding rod is good too.  Jacqueline

could sand down some wooden chopsticks to cover? or use pencil sharpener … or shorten and remove paint from the pointed-style chopsticks?
… tries are with bamboo skewers and chopsticks cut to the size I want. This time I want to imbed cord into the end with dangly things in them.   Kim

I saw a hairstick idea yesterday that might work with clay. The barrette piece was formed with strung beads in a looped design and then a wood hairstick was used to hold (dangle?) it. You could do the beads in polymer with a matching bead on the end of the stick. Trina

~I recently made a couple of experimental "icicles" out of transparent and cane onlays.... as Christmas decorations. They haven't come out exactly as I wanted yet, but they seem pretty strong. They are all Premo, and about 6 inches long is the longest one.... tapering in width. Melanie (maybe could be used as hairsticks?)

comb sticks (two-prong wooden hair sticks, possibly with embellishments on the top end….could be covered with clay)

 I made some polymer pointers this way for one of my clients who kept getting ink on projects by using a ball point pen to point out the areas that she wanted changed. Jody


Bracelets can be made in various ways with clay:
--one piece bracelets may be made from all clay (solid rods or tube, or flat cuff) shaped around a temporary form, shaped freehand, or over a permanent armature ...or they may be made by covering a blank of some kind which remains inside
--tiles bracelets are usually comprised of multiple, somewhat thick tiles which are joined with cording (e.g., elastic, buna cord, wire, etc.)
Either of these types can have hidden channels inside to hold the cording, can have holes drilled later, or can be connected with wire or fabric or in other ways

OTHER types
--"charm" or multi-bead bracelets (with many beads and bead dangles attached to a main bracelet)
..... faux gold, molded charms
--multiple tiles or cabochons, etc., in bezeled frames or wire-frame outlines
--multiple bead bracelets can be held together in the same ways as the tiles
--added clay over existing bracelets or parts of them
--embedding fabric with liquid clay (see below in Misc. & Clip-ems)
--(anything else you can think of...

Tiles . . .(flat...rounded...thick, etc.)

Tiles can be made separately (and baked or left raw... and be different or similar), or multiple tiles can be cut from one strip of (decorated) clay, or tiles can be cut then decorated, or layered onto backing clay (for strength or increased thickness), etc.,etc.

clay strips which are then cut into individual tiles (...these can be made with channels or without)
...i make a long strip of clay and decorate it (with one-petal-at-a-time flowers or something else)... then smooth it and back it with another sheet of clay for thickness... put it in the pan (or on a tile), cut it (or indent it into tiles), bake it, snap it apart ... twiggy
(when or how does she do the stringing holes though?)

"finishing" exposed edges of tile beads which have 2 or more layers (bracelets/pendants/etc)
...Donna's neat technique ..she smears soft raw clay into and over the exposed edges of joined layers to make them look like one solid color of clay,1789,HGTV_3238_3148256,00.html (Fig. K) do this, she lays a narrow rope or a thin strip of clay which is 1-2" long & about the same width as the two layers together (in the color she wants for her edge) on the exposed sides... then she uses a firm dragging motion with her thumb to force the soft clay into, and thinly covering, the entire edge
...OR, she makes a #1 thickness sheet of the color she wants to be the edging (e.g., red)
on top of a #3 sheet (e.g., black)... passes the layered sheets through the pasta machine thinner and thinner down to #6... then folds the sheet on itself (red to the inside)... cuts tiny lengthwise strips, paints edge thinly with liquid clay, and applies the strips on top of edge, perpendicular ... trims excess ... bakes 30-45 min

holes in tiles

thick, cane-slices for tiles... (holes before baking)
...Lynne M's lesson on using thick beads plus separator beads (for a stretchy watch band)...she strings hers with 15" of black round elastic (knotted and superglued)
... she may drill her holes while still in a row (cane is still together but the slices have been cut) for easier drilling,1789,HGTV_3225_3335448,00.html
...more of Lynnes thick slice tile bracelets

thick tiles ... holes after baking
..Tonja's lesson on making tiles with liquid clay decal transfers on them (using Epson InkJet Matte Photo Paper # S041062)
.....she also makes a frame for each tile by backing with a sheet of black clay, then wrapping around a strip of black clay a little wider than the tile is thick... she presses the excess strip on the front side inward to cover the edges of the transfer, then presses on a texture sheet and highlights with gold mica powder
....she then marks and hand drills 2 holes through the tiles (side to side), and threads with clear 1 mm Stretch Magic, separating each tile with 2 small beads
(...she also makes an interesting ball and loop connector for the 2nd bracelet shown with black rubbery cording)

more and
(more transfer tiles below)

channels in raw clay (strips-tiles)

(little more complicated, but nice effect)

Donna Kato'
s (newer) 2-step way of making tile bracelets (with 2 channels to hold the connecting Buna or other cord)...doing the channels this way has several advantages including leaving a perfectly flat back on the tiles, etc.lesson:
--Donna makes & bakes various kinds of tiles first, then later selects which ones to put together for bracelets ...the tiles she selects won't necessarily be the same width or height (though they will be the same thickness)..nor the same decoration (could be transfers, cane slice sheets, stampings,etc.), though they will be compatible colors/style/etc.
...(It may be possible to use parts of this method just to create channels or tiles without using the finishing techniques... but will have to sort that out later...So, for now I'll just say....
first make and bake transfers or other thin decorative pieces in sizes at least a bit smaller than the tile height you'll eventually want for finished tiles??

BACKING CLAY for tiles:
...cut two long strips of quilter's template plastic (which has grid printed on it) (or use plain graph paper)
.......make the "tile height" strip as long as possible, and as wide as the final height you want the tiles to be
.......make the "channel strip" as long as possible, and as wide as the separation you want between the channels
.......cut a small notch in the center of the short ends of both strips (for later registration)
....create a sheet of backing clay (#3?)
... lay the channel plastic strip on top of it... using a good size knitting needle, draw an indention into the clay down either side of the strip (these will be the channels) this twice to over-deepen... mark notch?... remove channel strip... roll lightly over the clay to smooth it
....lay tile height strip on backing clay (..and center the channels visible under the translucent plastic or use registration notch?) ...cut away the excess clay sheet from sides of this strip...
original way..Donna's lesson on using 2-layer tiles (backing layer with impressed channels + embellished layer)
.....(to make a ghost image tile bracelet --gold clay top layer shaved after impressing with stamps) from pointed-oval-shape tiles)
...she places the tiles in a row... lays two lengths of Buna cord (doubled) over them and presses them in for the channels... adds another tile to each on the other side.. bakes Buna cording in tiles.... removes Buna after baking to sand & buff.... re-strings on Buna
... ends of the cord are glued into pre-made holes in the sides of one of the tiles (she uses a half-tile),1789,HGTV_3352_1944361,00.html

3 tiles thick... using 3 removable wires to create later channels in the sandwich
...I stamped the (Celtic) patterns on a flat peice of clay, then cut each out as a tile...After baking them, I used them as templates to cut out two more layers......I attach the first layer to the back using Diluent
...then I lay the (3) wires down across their backs, and put the second layer over the wires. I press it all together, and trim off the excess, and bake again.
...then I pull the beads off the wires
...I sand and buff the tile beads... I put the paint on and rub off the excess (antique)....  thencouple of layers of future, and stringon onto beading cord (with silver beads between, on each cord). Darla

Barbara McGuire’s lesson on making a stamped, tile-type bracelet strung with elastic cording and spacer beads ...
...(2 layers) she stamps the clay, then cuts a 8" x 2" strip of it (# 1 on pasta machine) ...slices the strip into uneven-width tiles
... turns them over and places two metal rods across their backs.... then adds a second blank strip of clay (# 1 also) over each tile, which she trims around the edges, beveling?) ...does she press this layer down a bit in-between the rods? (this creates channels-holes for stringing)... ...bakes with the rods in place ... she removes (all?) clay from the back of an end tile so it will hide the stringing knots.,,HGTV_3238_1375827,00.html

Janet P's lesson on making multiple tiles from one long strip of transfer image clay --6" x 1-1.5" wide, #3 on pasta machine thickness ...2 channels for elastic cord created by using 3 strips of clay (#4 pm) on back side of transfer clay strip... textured strip of clay (#1-2 pm) attached as backing ..trimmed straight...mica powder on edges... then cut into tiles (tiles left in same order for stringing),2025,DIY_13762_3265562,00.html

(if making the channels after cutting tiles) ... It's important to align the holes in your bracelet tiles so they'll match exactly
one suggestion is to use graph paper.. . .if you work on a glass surface (I do), place your clay aligned with the grid lines, and then press either knitting needles, brass rod or wooden skewers in line with the lines on the graph paper. Patty B.
...Notice how there is a bit of clay sticking out past the edges wherever the knitting needle pressed into the clay and forced it to smoosh out just a bit .... trim these parts off ... or the tiles will have little bumps on the sides. Pamela

more examples

Jenny C's thick rounded square tiles of faux's,etc, heavily glossed, each separated by 3 pearls (x2)

Elise Winters' exquisite 3-D "triangular" tiles nested by alternating direction every other tile (or long clamshell, orange-peel fitted with clamshells, etc.)

Christell's quarter-pie shaped tiles for bracelet

Kathy W's several thick rectangular tile bracelets (Domino shaped), with diff. color clay layer on 2 sides.... tiles separated by round beads
Denita's tiles bracelets separated by pearls, plastic and/or metal beads (many slice-paintings)
Barbara Lang's tile bracelets (silk-screened tiles, but could be cane-sheet tiles) with spacer beads, strung on elastic
Kim C's many caned tile bracelets (often with chevron caned patterns), separated by small metal beads (gone) ( on # 25 in the drop-down menu)

Tonj'a reversible tile bracelet (transfers on one side of tiles, stampings,etc. on other side)... on elastic (no frames, like her lesson above)

Tonja's "broken tile" tile beads.. patterned strip cut into shapes to use as individual tiles
Mona K's trapezoid tiles bracelet with b&w transfers, crackled leaf, etc. components (including onlaid oval tiles)

Judy Dunn's thick boxy rectangular tiles or rounded top tiles (like Donna's)... with no beads between (cording showing)
Sigal makes very thick tiles in as half rounds or flatttened half rounds... she covers the scrap shape on the front and sides with a clay slice sheet.... then covers the top, bottom and back of the tile with gold clay

Michelle Ross' tile bracelets with transfers .....3 tiles thick (tile with transfer + 2 flush black backing tiles)

see also Transfers since many transfers are made into tile beads or pendants, etc, and have layers added to their backs

Lynne S's tile bracelets with various layers
.......and half-framing at top and bottom (arcs)
...spacer bead on one bracelet is one long oval which nests between each two tiles (which are slightly curved inward)
(click on Tile Bracelets)

Ginny's various tile bracelets

Laura T's tall concave tiles (like apple-core)
Eileen Loring's many oval and rectangular tiles bracelets, with transfers, component caning, mokume, etc.
(first few photos)
various shapes of tile beads --with cane slices or micromosacis... (Toops & Adams)

Laura T's very thick, double tiles ...each tile actually 2 separate tiles, back to back (no attempt to look joined)...outward facing tile is highly dimensional

LMary’s tile bracelets...layered clay, stamped with Pearl-ex, drilled and strung on elastic, separated by glass beads
.......where is Marty's beautiful tile bracelet? , in faux ivory? (gone?)
...Linda T's raku look on tiles for a bracelet (using impressions and powders) (website gone)

KimK's Celtic tiles "belt" has hinges to hold them together (2 tubes attached to one side of each tile, one center tube attached to other side, which interlock... she used wire threaded through each 3-tube hinge to to hold tiles together (could be bracelet if smaller tiles)

Heather P's single large tile of decorative polymer clay threaded onto a coil of Memory Wire (through each of the revolutions) as a perpendicular focal bead, with small beads on rest of Memory Wire

Tonja's "tile" pendant made by covering a tiny rectangular tin (cord runs through upper sides of tin)... with dimensional "frame" around transfer
Celie uses hollow box forms as tiles in a segmented bracelet (see Vessels > Closed Form Construction for one possible way to do)

bezel bracelet blanks ... 6 connected, round beveled frames.... small and lightweight ... glue (or bake?) clay inside each unit... 2 colors: imitation rhodium (silver colored) or gold plated ... also a silvercolored one with rectangular frames ...$6

(for my rolltop-desk hinge, which could also be used to make a "tile"bracelet) ... I baked the long clay strips (or lengthwise tiles), and then I baked them onto a fabric backing coated with liquid clay , which allowed the fabric-with-clay to be flexible. Jody B.
...this is a great technique which can be used for a lot of other things such as earrings, bracelets, etc. as well. Dotty in CA (a lesson can be downloaded from Bead and Button on this page too)

...flexible fabric for bracelets could also be made with fabric embedded with regular clay (usually translucent)
..........for the kinds of fabric that work best, etc., & lessons, see Mixing Media > Fabric

... Kato liquid clay bakes up with a shiny surface! No need to sand and buff, although it's not the same kind of shine get with sanding and buffing, but still quite good looking. Dotty

I made some bracelets with tile designs from mah jong sets. Jan R.

video ...Gwen Gibson's Cuff Bracelets & Surface Treatments (by Gameplan Videos)
. . . her construction techniques for making 3-layer (backing, channel layer, embellished layer) panel-type bracelets with elastic ...some have rectangular flat tiles (6-8, or many thinner ones) ...some are baked on a jar or other round surface... some tiles have separators strung between them (logs of clay or a bead on each elastic)... some tiles are simply beveled to nest together better on wrist
......she also shows two-part cuff bracelets with elastic which are rounded on top, flat on the bottom, made in half a bead roller (see details on the roller below)...
(also how to make your own texture plates by etching copper printed with acrylic paints through silk screens).

the black SoftGlass cording makes a good has just the right amount of stretch to slip it on without undoing the special connector . . . I can see making a double-holed tile bracelet with it and imagine that the connectors would just look like another bead (but $$?). No knotting and gluing and hiding the knot. Susan

(see below in "Other Types of Bracelet" for bracelets using thick cane slices or dimensional beads strung together rather than flatter tiles)

half-round tiles

Laura T's half-round rod tiles bracelet ( backing layer on hers like Donna's though)

add Donna's lesson here ... where are the other examples?

"Cuffs" & Bangles

solid (one-piece), round

SOLID ... round
Barbara’s lesson on solid round rod bracelet (...with transfers and additional little collars),1158,CRHO_project_27246,FF.html
Andrea S's solid rod bracelets, with flat noodle or 3 tiny ropes
of clay encircling one portion ... one could be faux coral
Celie's solid round rod bracelets (carved) with danglies (often of PMC) and
sort-of round
Jody B's lesson on making a solid thick bangle bracelet by covering a scrap square clay log on each side with a strip made of patterned clay (wavy blade slices)... then joining ends, and shaving off all four long "corner edges"

VERY NARROW solid rods (bangles? --"thin bracelets, sometimes worn in groups")
...for strength, you want to use a strong clay (maybe even a flexible clay or a strong clay mixed with a flexbile clay) the section where you join your ends, maybe add some liquid clay (that's the place where my bangles have broken before).
...clay gun can get some neat and tidy, round or half-round strands from a clay gun, great for making bangles.
...another way would to be to take a flat sheet of clay, fairly thin, the length you need for your bracelet, and roll it's long sides in towards the middle (if you do this evenly, you'll end up with a long piece which is rounded on top with two rolls underneath --makes a very strong bangle)
.........if using cane slices, you can start with a sheet that has your cane slices already laid out on it (and flattened in)... just turn the sheet upside down before you roll the sides in. Darla

"COIL" ....round
Twisteeze has a lesson on making a "rod" type of coil bracelet by winding two colors of wire around the length of 3 or more bunched wires (at the same time)-- as an armature for strength/support
... should be possible to use polymer clay strands instead of the 2 wires to do the same thing?... could try raw clay strands, or baked ones (wrapping with the curve) (click on "Jewelry")

2-piece, with elastic


I make round tube bracelets, with elastic cording running down through the hole in the middle
....lesson: first I create a tube of clay on a rod... then I take the clay tube off the rod, and form it into an oval or circlular shape on a baking surface, then bake ...just make sure the clay is stiff enough that the tube won't close in on itself (refrigerate it if soft?)... I learned the technique from Margaret Regan
... Debbie Jackson's lesson on making a 2-part tube bangle bracelet strung with elastic cording ...she forms the tube on two rods by rolling a 1/2 block blob of background (or base) clay on the first rod (metal, thin) and adding slices from a mokume technique to add patterning ...then slips off 1st rod and places on 2nd (woodskewer dampened with water) rod, rolls to bit longer than length she wants & removes... cuts the tube to the length she needs for her wrist (wrist + 1")... joins the open ends of the tube after removing from the skewer, and smooths over the join... after baking, she cuts the oval tube in half with a long blade before stringing elastic cording through hole ... ties and glues the ends into a knot, and lets dry before allowing halves to come back together (which hides knot),1789,HGTV_3225_4026630,00.html (begin at Fig H, step 7)
...I make tube blanks for these bracelets ...after curing my basic clay tubes, I apply clay slices over them (this keeps the hole intact) ...although I've found that the bracelet is frequently better-looking when I do all the embellishment before baking while the tube still straight.. Randi
...could also make half-round rod or other shape bracelets this way probably
(for more on making tubes, see Beads > Tubes ...and Pendants > Tube Holes)

HALF-ROUND rods used as small solid cuff bracelets (.....most with channels inside for cording)

Jean Sheppard (The Bracelet Queen!) has made many half-round bracelets, with channels
......she shows a cross-section of the half-rod with base sheet at bottom (one of the ways to create channels for cording)
showing 2 channels with elastic
Kathy W's wide, half round cuffs, covered with cane slices ... solid? or hollow as "tubes" above?

half-round bracelets in two sections that Sarah Shriver taught me:
..(two long, half-round rods with two channels running inside them for the elastic cording to hold them together.....she held hers together with elastic inside so able to get on and off wrist easily) of the current magazines has an article which uses Buna cord to create the two long center (enclosed) hole tunnels for the elastic
.......I found that Duck Decoy cord performs the same and is cheaper since you throw the cord away after making the hole and baking.
.... lesson ... i made a 4-5" tall clay form (solid cylinder) the right size for my wrist (from an oval cutter), then used my calipers to cut an even strip from a sheet of scrap for the bracelet (base)... this flat band was the placed around the (form) (over a cornstarch release) and ends were trimmed to fit ...then baked... a narrow clay strip was placed on each side with TLS and one wider strip in the middle, leaving two gaps?)... the cane 'top' (half round log) was applied to the strips leaving two? (tunnels) thoughout the entire bracelet so i could insert (glued-ends decoy cord circles...which are removed after baking)... the bracelet 'top' is made from applying slices of a Lace cane.
( do need just the right amount of TLS to join the "top" to the "base" of the bracelet... too little, and it doesn't bond... too much, and Paul Simon starts singing "Slip-sliding away"... it takes a lot of fussing prior to baking to get a good result... Jean S.

creating with a "mold" (...half-round rod bracelet with hidden interior channels to hold the cording)
..Patty B. formed a long, thick strip of clay with a rounded top surface (with a design) and flat bottom using
a PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise as a mold.
...I found that 3/4" PVC pipe split lengthwise about 8" long works really well to form a long strip of clay for a bracelet.
...Since I was using (a transfer) on raw clay, I started with a #1 sheet of clay as long as the PVC pipe half. I transferred my image onto the clay, then placed it image side down into the PVC mold (I used a 1/2" and a 1/4" acrylic rod to press the clay smoothly into the former ...round dowel would also work if cornstarch is used) ...I trimmed off the edges that might overhang the edge.. . then I placed a narrower strip of #3 clay down the middle
....(to create the channels running down the length of the bracelet to hold the cording,) I then used 3/32" brass rods to impress two grooves down the length of the clay. . . removed the rods... heavily applied cornstarch to 1 mm Buna cord in the grooves, with at least 4" extra sticking out from both ends. ...with the cord in place, I filled the rest of the PVC half with more layers of clay until it was level with the sides.
...I carefully removed the now formed clay with dangling cord from the PVC form. . . .I then used a foil-covered, heavy cardboard tube cut to about 3" in height as a form to wrap the clay around, and tied the cords to keep the clay in place.
...Next was to bake the clay for at least 45 minutes at 275º.
...After baking, pull on one of the cords from both ends at the same time to stretch should come free; then pull it out. Do the same to the other cord.
....You now have some options:
--leave it whole and use elastic or Stretch Magic through the holes left by the Buna cord
--or cut into several sections (like a tile bracelet) and add beads between sections again using a stretchy cord. Patty B.

...OR, to make a half-round or more shallow-arced rod more easily, you can mold the clay in just a one half of a bead roller instead (...use the lengths created for an entire bracelet, or for cutting tiles)
n oval bead roller will give or a flatter half-rod than a round bead roller ...could also use bicone roller for another log shape
.........even with the shorter rollers, one long rope could be made by molding each length that will fit, then overlapping a bit for the next length... may need a bit of finger smoothing to remove any small indentations)

.......Sue Lee sells a longer 12" version of an oval bead roller ("Gibson Channel Tools") which will give a rod long enough to go around the entire wrist

flat cuffs (solid--mostly no elastic)

Ginny's various cuff bracelets (also tile bracelets)
Nina's flat cuff clay bracelets, with clay face from mold, etc. inside a round bezel as onlay
Claude’s wide cuff bracelet, with wire onlays and a scarab (gone)
Sharon's wavy clay strip bracelets... lightly stamped, with various metallic powders
Emily's textured, powdered wide bracelet as shown on Carol Duvall Show

lesson on "covering" the interior, exterior and edges of purchased flat metal cuff (see below) with 2 strips of clay and liquid clay
.. then texturing, adding metallic powder

(for more on covering metal with clay in general, see Covering > Metal)
(or make your own metal cuff strip --see Forms & Blanks and maybe more in Cutters > Making your own)
(for more on metal or other materials as permanent or temporary armatures, see Armatures-Permanent or Armatures- Temporary)

Donna Kato's lesson uses a metal cuff to form the clay on (removed later)
+ 2 plastic templates + and 2 layers of clay (3 bakings)
...for making 2 channels for a 2-wire permanent armature (for strength) inside a flat cuff bracelet, leaving a perfectly flat back, etc
...(this makes a fairly wide cuff ...if you want a narrower cuff, change the size of both templates)
LESSON for all parts:
(the following is a combination of the lesson at hgtv plus a class I had with Donna... my memories anyway --think some things were left out at hgtv)
..cut 2 strips of template plastic (or cardstock,etc) ...each should be the length of the outer surface of the metal cuff
....with one strip, cut a "channel template" about 1/3 the width of the bracelet form's height (at its open ends)
.......mark, and cut a small V at the exact center of each end of this template
....with the other strip, cut a "bracelet template" so that its long edges are the height and shape you want (must be smaller than the form, of course, and at least an inch wider than the channel template strip)
.....cut a V in exact center of each end, as with other template
...BASE SHEET WITH channel template on a sheet of clay (widest pasta machine setting) which is the color you want for the inside of the cuff, leaving extra clay on each side...drag a knitting needle, etc., through the clay next to each outer edge of the channel template (just deep enough to completely accommodate a 14 g, wire), creating 2 channels... remove ch.template bracelet template on the channeled clay sheet, matching the V's from both templates
...cut around outside of bracelet template (using point of a long blade, etc.) clay (roll down?) on outside of metal cuff, making sure there is good contact & no trapped air
...bake 1 hour
...when cool, place wire (copper if possible because of its softness --she used 14 g. Artistic Wire) into each channel... make each wire very tight by grabbing each of the 4 wire ends in turn with needlenose pliers, and pressing it around and under the edge (twist too?) (Fig. E)
...DECORATIVE SHEET ...create a flat sheet of patterned clay (she applied thin cane slices, as polka dots) bracelet template on decorative sheet and cut around it more or less ... but to compensate for the larger surface area needed for the top layer of a curved form:
.......cut the decorative sheet 1/2" longer at each end, and also cut the sides a bit wider (actually, will be flush in the middle, then gradually flaring to wider at each end) decorative layer over clay and wire layer, again pressing out any trapped air
....trim any excess clay... using a long blade held horizontally along each edge to be trimmed
....bake 30 min.... cool
...trim wires off as close to clay as possible (even inside a bit) with wire cutters (if using copper wire, it can also be sanded down)
...sand all edges with 150 grit (can rub bracelet on sandpaper which is lying on stiff worksurface if want)
... the 2 layers can be hidden and colored by smearing raw clay over them
...see details on this above, under Tiles ( for 30 min if you do this),1789,HGTV_3238_3148256,00.html

(see also Nan Roche's lesson below on making a freestanding all-clay cuff without a form or permanent armature --Other Bracelets-- braid also added to top)

forms & blanks

flat cuff .. bracelet forms.....(& sizing bracelets)
...... ... flat, aluminum cuff blanks, 2 sizes ...$1.50
...... ...flat aluminum strips ....and bender for strips
......Metalliferous carries many sizes and shapes of copper or brass cuff bracelet blanks
..... (1-2" metal)... and?
...... ...lightweight (compressed cardboard?), coated for stiffness ...1/2" width =$.45 ... 1" width =$.55 (Exquisite Adornments Bracelet Forms, Houston Arts)

make your own form

Use paper to draw a form and size to your wrist ... then use paper as template for clay. the clay on your form and texture the black clay and apply Pearl-X Interference colors (blue, green, purple) to the different areas. The textures are done by hand, using junk from around my clay table and garage NOTHING fancy. Bake ON THE FORM, allow to cool and coat with a thin coat of varathane. . . . I think it's actually in my  new book,  Polymer Clay For the First Time. syndee

...roll a cylinder of card stock (or a really lo-ong strip of paper, for strength) to the same circumference are you want the bracelet and tape it shut; use this as your form and bake the bracelet on it
....mirabel's lesson on using strip of cardstock as form for cuff bracelet (ends overlapped and stapled together to create a cylinder) same diameter as widest part of hand
...(you can also wrap long ropes from a clay gun around and around, touching . . . if metallic powders are used to cover it, will look quite ethinic . . . can also fold down or separate various of the clay rope from each other, add embellishments, etc.)

....syndee's lesson on using a soda can for a bracelet form,1158,CRHO_project_20799,00.html (same?)
...Soda cans with a layer of Vaseline for release agent work (to avoid leaving an imprint of the logo) great as a form for my round bracelets (and oval cutters from the cooking store work great for cuff-type bracelets). Premo is so strong and flexible that you can bend the cuffs open to fit your wrist. Plus, as the clay warms to your body temperature you can form the bracelet to fit.
...soda cans denting: Yes, they will dent easily. I use this as an indicator that I'm texturing too hard and may be actually texturing through the bottom piece of clay. I also put the strip of bracelet clay up toward the top of the can (because I usually think I'm gonna make more than 1 at a time on the can).
......What if you created the bracelet on a full can of soda?? The pressure inside the can would prevent it from bending when you did the texturing. You'd just have to make sure you remembered to empty the can before putting it in the oven... Claire
.... If you are concerned about your clay sticking to the can when baking, put a THIN layer of Vaseline on the can first. Glass jars would well also, use the Vaseline, if you are concerned. Remember that the item you use for the mold should be slightly smaller than your wrist because you add to the circumference when you put clay on the outside. ...So, if you are using the set of circle cutters for your mold, choose the next smallest from the one that fits you. syndee
...maybe you could try what I did awhile back. Take a bracelet that fits you and has a smooth inside, then take some white sculpy or whatever large chunk of scrap clay and work it into (approximately) a 1 1/2" - 2" thick cylinder that about matches the inside diameter of your bracelet. Coat the bracelet's interior with some releasing agent (armour all, etc), loosely mold the clay around the inside, then bake. I used an old bakelite bracelet and this made a wonderful mandrel that I've been able to use over and over. When I wrap unbaked clay arund my mandrel, I make sure not to press to hard against the mandrel surface. That way the new bracelet comes away from the surface (after the whole thing has cooled -- very important) with very little sticking. Barbara

(I've been making forms to build box bottoms around, using those metal cookie tins that there are so many of after the  holidays.)
... I use tin snips to cut first down the side of the tin, then around the  perimeter to remove the entire bottom. There's usually a lip on these tins,  so I cut that off too. If there's a ridge around the tin, I hammer it out.
....For a bracelet form, cut it to about an inch longer than you need to fit your wrist. Then instead of gluing it into a circle, simply use masking tape on the inside. The masking tape will hold it closed even through baking. After baking, you can take off the masking tape and curl the metal inwards so the polymer clay pops off it. Hope this helps! Irene in western NC
(or could use for blank)

Make some kind of "mold" of your wrist first to use as a form for measuring or shaping bracelets?? (see Molds)

one-piece (but other shapes)

Elise Winters' one piece bracelets ... "ruffled" thick strip ...& shapes like peanuts in their shells joined end to end


try a scrap piece of Skinner blend ... texture it and use one color of Pearl Ex on the surface - it's cool!!!!! syndee

I learned from bitter experience that when you give cured clay an icewater bath, you really need to let it return to room temp before trying to flex it at all. I broke a cuff bracelet that way. Suzanne

It may be possible to reposition, curve, etc., some baked clays while they're still warm (for rings, bracelets, etc.)...more about that process is located in Covering > Removable Sleeves)

Other Kinds of bracelets
+ watch bands, etc.

Nan Roche’s lesson on making a freestanding solid clay cuff bracelet as a base which she also adds a woven clay braid on top (but something else could be added instead, or could be left as is)
...she begins with a thick, flatish rope of Premo, measures and forms into a sort-of oval with its ends just touching, and bakes,1158,CRHO_project_13529,00.htm
--BRAID: Roll several colors of clay into logs
--Cut thick slices of each color press them together in a new log, alternating colors and making several repetitions.  Roll to make it thin enough to go into the extruder.  (Use the primary color you want to show as the end piece and put that end into the extruder first--the other colors will be inside the primary one and will show up later when the piece is sanded).
--Using five strands, anchor them at one end by pressing onto a work surface, then braid together (same as regular braiding but braid each strand over TWO strands rather than one.)
--BASE: Flatten a log of clay the same as your primary color long enough for the bracelet
..... lay the braid on top of it and roll with a brayer to join and flatten (to any degree you want).
--Bake the bracelet in a circle, ends touching, on a baking sheet
--Sand the braid top here and there to expose the colors underneath.  Use a finish or not.
.Kay P’s woven braid bracelet (& collar-type necklace)
I didn't use gloss (on mine), it was sanded and buffed. I used 400, 600, 800 and 1500. I buffed the bracelet with my homemade double muslin wheel attached to my rotary tool.  If you have one of these tools try buffing in one direction, then the other, followed by a circular pattern. The shine emerges like crazy. Crafty Michele
(...could use this braid to make a barrette or anything else too)
...(see more in
Clay Gun > Weaving)

Ria's various beads bracelets
Connie Fox's lessons how to create a multi-bead bracelet on 16-18 gauge wire, with clasp, etc.
also Connie's
lessons on using design principles to pick out colors, focal beads, etc.

watches ... watch faces could be embellished with clay around the face
....those or plain watch faces could also be attached to clay watch bands ...
watches could also be hung as pendants
... since the watch mechanism could be damaged by heat(?), it would probably be best to form the clay on the watch (without undercuts, or do in several separate pieces), then remove and bake the clay, and glue the watch face back in place (a 2-part epoxy glue would be the strongest, but E-6000 could also work)
.... the connectors which attach the face to the band-bracelet could be left uncovered, or connectors
could be put in the clay at the proper areas (or new ones could be created, then put in the clay)
... (see more
on using watch faces with clay in Covering > Clocks, and Vessels > Clocks)

Lynne M's pendant necklace watches --she uses watches with a small connector area on each end (could use regular ones though?)... hangs upside down, and hangs 3 head pins from the bottom connector strung with thick round cane slices, so they stand apart (gone)
Tracie's framed watch pendants

Meredith's watch band ...various beads on two strands of Stretch Magic cording (tied? onto watch spindles... spindles have 4 tiny metal beads? as spacers?)... includes "lesson" (gone)(see other watches in the Galleries)
....I've seen watches using buna cord as a sort of elastic also...don't seem to lose their springiness, but a're a lot less stretchy. Julia S.
....would be cool to make a tile bracelet into a watch band (with buna cord or elastic cord in the interior channels... the tile closest to the spindle could have an eye pin or some other nonflexible way to clasp onto it maybe) ...see Bra
...selling beaded watches made with our beads strung on round elastic from the fabric store. We had similar problems. After about a year, people would be coming back for restrings. Mine would end up saggy too, some watches sooner than others. Right now I still have about a dozen watches around that need restringing. I always assumed it was the elastic itself that was the problem. However, I remember the occasional batch of underbaked beads, too. I wonder if it might have been plasticizer from not fully baked beads degrading the rubber in the elastic. Hmm.
...I have designed small watches with polymer clay beads, strung on 49-strand cable.... Spring bar watch faces have not worked for me, mine have one hole at the center of the watch that the cable goes through easily. Mona

Amy K's houses, faces, flowers, etc....thick, non-round slices for bracelets, watches (click on Watches)--gone
Lizboid's various kinds of bracelets (..and watch band) (gone)

Jan's lesson on making an interchangeable bracelet-type watchband attachment with Beadalon, metal findings and wire... & some finished ones .....

Maize uses entire old vintage watches & bands to act as a tiny "frame" with attached "bracelet"
(she removes the watch face, and substitutes a tiny photo inside the frame, but we could put a transfer in the face or even just decorative clay) idea ....

You may like to check out my historical answer to power bracelets (group of polished beads made from one stone, strung as a bracelet)....  It bugged me that all they are is a rip-off of historical prayer beads so I compiled my research on prayer beads--malas, japamalas, rosaries, etc.  and designed the Bede Bracelet.  My bracelets take into account characteristics of prayer beads that are common across all major faiths (rosaries?).  I also included the numerology and colors that are associated with different characteristics  across majors faiths in prayer beads. Dianne C. (website gone)

Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces & chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems 

Melanie‘s “charm” bracelets, made with many multi-bead dangles held with head pin (mostly attached to cord by making a loop in other end of head pin) in-between tube or other beads on the cord itself

Desiree's WIRE with clay used for bracelets
...woven wire, multiple strand wires, wire inlays, wire frame-outlines, and
chain maille, etc.'s lesson on making a (single or) doubled-ended wrapped loop which can have a bead in-between, for a "chain" of beads

Tammy's lesson on making a clover shaped wire connector (for bracelet)

One of the scouting sites suggests making make a bracelet out of fishing swivels …they put (seed) beads on 10-14 swivels, connecting them all together ….they suggest having needle nose pliers available since sometimes they’re hard to open. 
…Tiny polymer round beads or tube beads could be substituted
…or the swivels could be used to hang danglies.

....see another lesson on doing this at the Carol Duvall show, above in Connectors, "Fishing Swivels"
.... also also somewhere at ?

You know how hard it is to fasten a bracelet onto your own wrist? I found magnetic clasps at a craft store.  Denise in Austin

Carly’s lessons on making a multi-strand bracelet (with a medallion bead), and making your own “end caps,” and making a crackled center bead with foil and acrylic paint

Memory Wire permanently-coiled, tough, wire in long coil ( a Slinky)
...comes in 4 diameters ..beads (small, large, or mixed) are usually strung onto it

...use 1-5 revolutions of the coiled wire for making bracelets or anklets or rings or wine glass charms (or chokers from one or more coils)
...for a bracelet, cut off as many coils as you'd like to go around your wrist... then make a loop at one end --with muscle power-- using round nose pliers, string some beads and/or dangles, make another loop... join, close
...I curl the ends of my memory wire with round nosed pliers. I grip the end very firmly and then bend the loop in one action. I usually bend it slightly further than I need as it often springs back a bit.... practice will show how much extra to bend.
...can also make bead dangles (thread bead/s onto a head pin, make loop) to attach to each end of wire, or anywhere along wire
...can have wire ends meet in front, then connect with focal bead there, etc.
...can use "architecturally" to connect to other things or other rows of wire, etc... or use for purposes other than jewelry
...can also mix media on the MW ...wrapping with threads, or threading on bits of vinyl tubing, etc.

ENDS... in addition to making a loop on each end (away from natural curve of wire) to act as a "stop" can also put a hook and loop fastening on the end of necklaces with practice. silvermaid
...I curl my ends with a tool used to make fishhooks --it makes them uniform in size and shape and is easy on my wrists
...or glue each end of the wire into a bead (if a clay bead, predrill hole only halfway through)
...screw-on metal beads (caps) can be bought to finish the ends.. may need to use a bit of superglue to help them stay on tho
OTHER USES: I also use the memory wire to make Christmas ornaments and hang beads off of it... then at the very end, I hook a pretty tear drop type bead ...I hang on the tip of the tree branch, really coils beautifully on the tree. (used to use those at Michaels in California for decorating trees)... inexpensive to make too. Mercedes
...or use as decorative coils wrapped around a candle jar/can... or arm band to hold sleeves up?... etc.
CUTTING: (very hard to cut) ...don't use jewelry wire cutters; MW will damage those
...use heavy duty wire cutters instead
...and cheap kids' Fiskars scissors work really well.... I assume MW will ruin the blades eventually but they haven't had problems yet and we use a LOT of MW for cheap craft fair bracelets. Leslie
...the special memory wire cutters I bought lost their spring after a month or so
...BENDING to CUT: (very hard to bend)
...Rio Grande catalog says to just bend the wire back & forth until it breaks (wearing thick gloves might help?, or use two sets of pliers?) make the wire bendable, I heat the wire to a dull red and allow it to cool naturally (rather than quenching) --it will lose some of its original spring and hardness and be soft enough to bend and cut without special tools
........ after you've made all the bends you wish, you can replace some of the hardness and spring of the wire by red-heating it again but this time, you plunge it into water or oil (naturally you can't heat like this if there are polyclay beads on it!) Alan

MORE lessons, info, examples: (lessons & photos at DIY on making bracelets, necklaces, etc.) (photos..variety)
Heather P's single large tile of decorative polymer clay threaded onto a coil of Memory Wire (through each of the coil's revolutions) used as a perpendicular focal bead (with small beads covering rest of Memory Wire) (more info about Memory Wire bracelets)
Judy Belcher's lesson on making thick curved tube beads for stringing onto Memory Wire (which will be separated by metal spacer beads, etc)
... she makes the tube beads by rolling clay on a knitting needle, then bakes the long tube lying in a circular shape that's the same size as one loop of the Memory Wire ...cuts the individual tube beads while the clay is still warm.
...PolymerClayExpress (3 sizes)
...Primitive Earth (4 sizes)

TSI  1-800-426-9984 (they also also sell findings, stones, beads, boxes, sterling & gold sheet & wire, tools, etc ; excellent service, really nice people, don't need a resale number)

Rio Grande (members only)

clay spirals (helixes) used as beads, strung onto guitar wire
...(on the first few I wrapped the raw clay around the bracelets to make open-ended spirals and baked them, but a lot of them broke. It may have been underbaking though).
...The next ones I did I wrapped the raw clay around the guitar wires, and pinched the coils together at each end for a little more strength and it worked very well.  Julia
A few of the dollar stores here in FL have the guitar string bracelets arleady pre-made.  So all you would have to do is add clay beads or such to  them.  I guess to thread them(beads) on you would have to cut the string or  bake the bead right on the string.  But the ideas are endless with this...and they are fairly cheap too. Shawn

various types of bracelets by Claude (click on Les Creations, then on each Gallery and browse)

(see Pendants for medallion/single piece necklaces)

various types

(Most “regular”-necklace photos are found on the pages dealing with the particular technique used for making them, rather than in this sub-section.
…If you want, you can find each instance of the word “necklace” used anywhere at Glass Attic by doing a search at the Search Function on the bottom of the homepage.

Claude Delattre’s many necklaces and pendants (some ethnic)… many are multiple strand
(also interesting bead shapes, clasps, architecture, fauxs) (click on “Les Creations,” then click on each of the galleries)
*Desiree’s classy necklaces, many larger
Jeanne’s necklaces (faux ivory, turquoise, etc.)
Tawan's many "heavier" necklaces ---large pendants & med. beads along complete length of cording ( on all Galleries)
Emma's stunning leaf necklaces (leaves attached evenly along entire length) (website gone)

Jenny P's necklaces (faux jade leaves/etc. & gold mica rhomboids?) (website gone)
Blue Highways PC Guild's necklaces (long tube bead, pendant, etc. included)
(website gone)
*Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces & chokers & circlets, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems

some various types of "beaded" necklaces (click on each for more)

customary necklace lengths list  (jami)
Look at  --I don't remember which section...
…the biggest consideration about necklace length is whether it will fit over your head without needing to be opened . . . the other big consideration is the hole size of largest and the smallest thing you want to string. … you want to keep the smallest and largest holes as close together as possible. Desiree

Fire Mountain has pinbacks that have a hook-sort-of-thing to convert to a pendant.  Randi

I have a new necklace- model, a mask pedant with some beads. I invented it Monday, have made six necklaces since, and _ALL SOLD_ before I even have tried to sell them.

I've seen pendants and earrings where teeny seed beads are used around the pieces.  I'd never have known they could look as elegant as metal finishing (see more on this technique in Mixed Media > Seed Beads).

I agree with your friend that the only place I've ever had a tigertail necklace come apart is at the crimp, even with two crimps. However, a tiny drop of super glue over the Tigertail and crimp melts them together nicely. 
I don't like the way TT hangs, so I mostly use a three ply nylon twist to sting, and triple knot my ends, then take the ends back down the last three beads, trim,  (I like having no clasps too) and put a spot of super glue or jewelers cement on the tails tucked in the bead holes, and on the knot. I've never had one come apart that was done in this way, at least not so far...Sarajane
Tigertail is a fine twisted steel cable coated with plastic; oven temperatures shouldn't weaken the steel any more than they weaken your aluminum bakeware … The real question is how will baking affect the plastic coating on the cable (if the TT is baked inside polymer clay).  To check that, I would just cut a couple of little bits of tigertail and  bake 'em, one with clay and one without.  One of my worries would be having the tigertail fuse to the loose beads on the necklace and possibly affect the hang. Ulrike
I tried baking the tigertail this afternoon, and so far, so good. The beads didn't stick to the wire. I took 2 pairs of pliers and pulled the tigertail end to end and stretched it out, pulling it as tight as I could with no breakage. Sharon

If you don't like the way tigertail hangs, you might want to check out Soft Touch, and Soft Flex by the Soft Flex Co.  They have a  twisted cable core, like tigertail, but they don't kink like  tigertail does, and Soft Touch is so fine that it's knottable like silk or nylon thread (not inexpensive though).  Ulrike

 I just made a necklace using some type beads, and instead of doing  'wire wrap', I used seed beads in a design to join the beads together.

(for a quick “bead board”) I make a concertina (accordion fold) of paper and lie the beads out in a fold to decide their order etc. Crafty Owl

Better to use two strands of thinner thread, the neclace hangs better. Crafty Owl

(for embedding fabrics with liquid clay to use for jewelry (bracelets, chokers, etc.), see below in "Miscellaneous and Clip-ems"

stands for hanging necklaces, etc.... I found a pasta drying rack that has a heavy base of wood, and a vertical dowel in the middle with 3 holes drilled through it near the top... smaller dowls go through these holes (horizontally).... you are supposed to drape your homemade spaghetti over them...but I use my rack for hanging pendants. Could be painted, etc.. Sherry B
(for more ideas for "stands" for hanging necklaces, see below in Earrings ...and also in Shows > Displays > Necklaces, Earrings, Pins Especially)

lessons for making a rosary with polymer clay beads:
polymer clay bead rosary, and bit of instruction:
supplies and info: ...
... ...http://www.beadsfor
...crosses can be easily made from polymer or other molds, if you want one (see Molds)
...for the "centerpiece" (a connector piece to which both ends of the cording is attached, and from which hangs another cord with a cross, etc. on the end. So you could make a centerpiece from clay, adding 3 connector pieces (or using holes or loops or bails, etc) for attaching the 3 cord ends (or gluing them in, etc).
......centerpiece a polymer heart with 3 holes drilled in it's perimeter centerpiece... jump rings at the ends of the main loop, both attached into one jump ring at the beginning of the extra cord
... or buy a metal centerpiece from a rosary supplier

chokers ...( gen.15-18")

Carly says that all kinds and sizes of chokers look good on long necks
... for shorter or wider necks maybe try a thinner choker, or one with a pendant to give a more vertical effect

using wire coils/rings & Memory Wire

photos of many types of wire choker possibilities

thick, rigid wire (not Memory Wire) hoop necklaces, with hook and loop closure in back... in the 70's, we called these "dog collars" just strung on many beads (or charms), or a single pendant ... or some combination

...they were a large loop of sturdy wire that hooked in the back
........ I remember that a large coffee can was the just the right size for wrapping the wire (about 16" including ends?)

"memory wire" is sold as several brands (Memory Wire, Remembrance Wire, etc.)
...a Carol Duvall episode had them using the large loop Memory Wire for "pearl" chokers …I'd say it was about a 16-gauge wire, or even thicker

...actually, the memory-type necklace wire that jewelry catalogs sell is nottrue memory wire.. it's just coiled stainless steel wire with the brand name "Memory Wire" 
......however  shape memory alloy (nitinol), is available from a company called Mondotronics and has some very peculiar properties, among them that it remembers its previous shape when bent into a new shape

(...see much more on using Memory Wire --cutting, making loops, uses,etc-- in Bracelets above)

string beads onto the wire, or hang dangles or pendants or other things
... just add a pendant of some sort to your wire (...add jump ring to top loop in pendant, and thread pendant onto neck ring)

single-coil Memory Wire necklace used to connect a second row of shaped wire to --Egyptian-type necklace-choker

Memory Wire must be cut with heavy duty wire cutters (will ruin jewelry pliers) ... or just bend back and forth till it breaks

endings .....(and lengths)
...this type of wire can be cut to approx. neck circumference, then be finished either by bending a loop at each end to hold the beads on, or have a "cap" glued or screwed on
can cut a little larger than the neck circumference, then finished with a self-clasp by bending each end (slowly) in to a hook (or one hook and one loop)
...or by cutting 1 1/2 times (or a little less) the neck circumference and allowing overlap, then finishing with loops or caps

...for loops or hooks, bend
...some suppliers also offer "caps" to finish the ends of memory wire (balls, cones or other shapes) which can be glued on, or screwed on if they'
re threaded) use the ones from Fire Mountain, you just unscrew the ball, thread the beads, then screw the ball back on. ones are $1.82 ea., silver (plated, both) are $1.63...cheaper if you order more

(more info, projects and suppliers for memory wire

other wire

a neat choker by Darice at JoAnn's was a dense, fine spring that pulls apart at the back (not just Memory Wire?)
......would be nice to have with different bead sets to string up according your mood-of-the-day. Denise
..(could it have been a larger wire wrapped tightly with thin wire, for strength and interest?)

multiple, long wire coils can be nested together after stretching out a bit to create an interesting, fairly stiff, neck wire "cord" which could be used in the same way (would need a clasp to keep circular shape though)
...Wigjig's lesson on making a (stiff hoop-type) necklace cord by wrapping each of 3 different colored wiresaround a thin rod, then removing each and stretching it out (the same amount of stretch for each it's 3 times the original length)
......then wrapping one around a second one to nest it, then wrapping a third around the first two, nesting that one, etc.

some of the rigid metal neck collar necklaces are more of a metal strip (which may become larger toward the front side)
......these generally have no clasp because of their size and rigidity ...they just slip onto the neck from the front, leaving a gap in the metal at the back
...these can be embellished in various ways ...covered or draped with clay pieces, ropes, chains, stones, etc.


Since the prints of your fabric are small, (covering the fabric with liquid clay) would work also as an inset in a piece of jewelry as a medallion so you could co-ordinate with specific clothing!!!!!! Think of the possibilities.... Lucille
...If your fabric has pretty pattern (& you can't get the stain out of your shirt), go ahead and cut the fabric into 1" and 2" strips to make bracelets and chokers from them
....coat the fabric strips entirely in liquid clay... bake in oven for recommended time
...cut into choker and bracelet lengths... use either a "ribbon" type clasp or a piece of velcro on each end. Ta Da! Insta-jewelry.
...(this method is from The Mitchell Sister's book "Liquid Polymer Clay". Great book, great fun projects ). Karen Hardy
(see Mixing Media and Sculpting Body&Tools for more on using fabric)

I baked the clay strips (like tiles), and then baked them onto a fabric backing coated with Liquid Sculpey, which allowed the fabric-with-clay to be flexible. Jody B.
...could be used for wide necklaces as well? (see above in Bracelets for more on using "tiles") (a lesson can be downloaded from Bead and Button on this page too)

(for embedding fabrics with liquid clay to use for jewelry (bracelets, chokers, etc.), see below in "Miscellaneous and Clip-ems"


Cheryl's connected rings of Super Flex with cane slice over join (in fat figure 8’s) (choker or bracelet)  

Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces & chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems 

Amanda's lesson stringing flat and non-flat (spacer) beads onto three cords ......she uses tigertail, but could use flexible or other cording
...for each row, make knot in one end of cording... for extra security, thread on a crimp and close it around the knot ...thread beads and spacer end, thread on a crimp, make knot close as possible to the inside of crimp, and close the crimp around knot... repeat these sequences for the next two rows/cords ...attach the callottes to end-bars... add a hook to one end-bar and chain to the other (using a hook and chain closure will allow for different neck sizes)

eight 3-hole spacers ...+ two 3-hole end bars

...for lots of possibilties for small beads, see Beads (especially the subcategories Spacers & Heishi,. Tubes, and Bicones)... and also small black rubber o-rings to use as spacers in Pendants > Rubbery Cording)
...for making fauxs of all kinds see, Fauxs-many, Faux-Turquoise& Wood
, Faux-Ivory, and Inclusions)

Rebecca N's choker with openwork beading & dangles to form a pectoral area?, made to match a dress 

(see more below in Rods, Collars, Torques, etc.)


...the cording for chokers can be made from chain like a normal "necklace," but most often made with a stiffer or thicker material like rubbery cording, leather, ribbon, hemp, plastic tubing like Softflex, thin braids, etc. ...more info on using all those cords in Pendants and in Jewelry)

...some bead types ... e.g.
.......natural materials (or fauxs of them) like wood... rock/stone/lava... non-crystal gemstones like lapis, jade, jasper, turquoise... metal or metal objects of any kind... leather...ivory/bone...
shell, etc.,
.......decorative beads like glass, polymer, etc (one person even mentioned guitar picks)
...... pendants could be anything

...number and position of beads can vary... e.g., mix of small beads in a row, beads spread out along cording, a single pendant piece hanging down ...or any combination

many males prefer colors which are more neutral, or toned down (earth colors, black, etc.) ....beads which are natural-material (see just above) ...and/or a more ethnic, tribal, or industrial look
.......(see also Gifts > Men for more)

(though younger males may be open to much more color, funk, and non-natural material)
...more ideas for men:

various beaded chokers... also "tribal"
... (2 pages)
hemp and beads (or pendants)
….I have been using twine because jute looks to scratchy
rubbery cording or leather

can also make them out of cording or embroidery floss.

(larger neck pieces)
Pectorals, Collars, Larger
"Pendants," Rods, Torques ...ethnic

interesting plaque -type necklaces by Nan Roche (one wide arc of patterned clay connected underneath a second wide arc ...the unit attached to (and beneath) a thick, flat,clay rope, with cording attached to it, so that the cording sits on top of and in the back of the shoulders?)
..Josephine's plaque neck piece with many dangles and embellishments
...Barbara McGuire's lesson on gluing flat decorative clay shapes onto a leather "collar" necklace with white glue ( she uses Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Tacky Glue)... she also softens the sharp edges of the leather (or 5-6 oz. veg-tan leather) piece with an edge beveling tool (or a flat-ish linoeum cutter?) and stamps with metallic pigment ink before adding her raw (mica shift) clay shapes... closes clasp and bakes clay and leather together... adds leather sheen product for shine,1789,HGTV_3238_2227747,00.html
....suggestion for getting leather really cheap: look in thrift stores (e.g. Goodwill) for old coats, vests, etc., and then cut them up. You'd be surprised what you can buy for $5! Suzanne

Syndee's version of a fringed collar necklace made from a Skinner blend (whole) sheet folded over around the cording to form a tunnel, with the remainder of the sheet cut into strips for a fringe... with loop & ball closure
Kim K's version of a one-piece "fringed" Premo collar (lesson) (gone?)

interesting necklaces and earrings by various polymer clay artists (fringed, multi-dangled, pectoral?, etc.)

Barbara McGuire's lesson on cutting textured clay into shapes with a template, baking on the curved side of an upturned glass bowl, then using wire to make a connector and decorative dangling spiral, and hanging many of them for a necklace,1789,HGTV_3352_1399580,00.html

Claude Delattre’s many necklaces and pendants (some ethnic), some in this vein, for example # 165, 167 &  also 196, 118b, 182, 184, 206 and 37 (click on Les Creations, then click on each Gallery)

Marie Segal's various large "pendants" (flowers, etc.) or plaques with onlays, sometimes folded over the very thick woven? cording ...some with terminals at front... often on
*Rebecca N's textured/mixed media/gold necklace architecture... one large oval center piece, plus 3 smaller versions on each side all attached to each other by two jump rings per side...the final smaller pieces have a doubled cord inserted through the two holes from the back, then the loop end is passed over them and tightened
Becca’s large components gold necklace, discs on discs, wire rimmed, antiqued, ethinic (bottom of page)
Varda's scarabs necklace (& attached double strand technique)  (
gone?—uploaded someday to PolymerClayCentral’s swap index?)
...see also Kathy W's large pectoral cross in Pendants Cording > Pendants, featuring transfers, borders, chain twisting, etc.

Rebecca N's choker with openwork beading & dangles to form a pectoral area?, made to match a dress 
various collar-type neckwear by StokesGalleries, dangles, etc.

Jeanne's macrame necklace (neck piece) using some large polymer beads (multicolored), along with smaller glass and metal beads
....I used cord that I ordered from Whiteswan the knots used in the piece are just the basic knots (square knot, diagonal double half hitch, and half knot twist spiral)

large rods (or shaped-rods) are fun to make, then use as very long and large focal bead, or as side beads more as part of the architecture of a necklace (see Jewelry > Bracelets for info on how to make holes in these rods)
...Helen Breil's
necklaces with various rod-like components (often with crackling)
...Celie's large (mokume gane) rods as components in a necklace... also double-helix rod as large beads (rope of clay doubled over, twisted together, then untwisted slightly)

see Barbara's lesson above in Bracelets for making a solid round rod bracelet with transfers)
Tonja's necklaces…and one with long curved mokume gane rod, spiraled with wire, and small coin pendant hanging from center  (gone)

Tania's large long (thick-walled) curved tube bead strung onto cording.. then large clay disk pendant hangs from it via another cord wrapped multiple times around the center of the tube bead and the dangled pendant

also see above under Bracelets for rod or tube bracelets made with similar rods & techniques (how to make and use them)
also see
Beads > Tube for more on making tube beads (same techniques, just larger)
….and for more on SuperFlex clay, Characteristics > Superflexible clays

sections of polymer braid (some with mica powders) used as large long focal bead on necklace (thewildbunny adds dangles to underside of braids also)

Damalias snake rod-torque neckpiece ...covered with mulit-wrapped-bulleseye canes slices

torques (also spelled torc) neckwear… (from Latin = “twist”)
rigid, originally-metal collars of various metals, sizes, shapes, and decoration…also found as bracelets or armbands
…these are not complete circles, but an opening is left in the circle; the torque is meant to be flexed open to put around neck
…often twisted ropes of metal, one more textured than the other for definition
…sometimes there are decorative elements such as small creature heads, spirals, etc., on each open end…if so, these terminals are worn to the front
….or can have some kind of interlocking ends which allow it to be closed (like what we used to call “dog collars”)?, or pivots, unscrewable parts, etc.
…worn by the ancient Celts --Gauls, Germans, and Britons to represent strength, royalty, mystical power, etc.
(some sizes/lengths): P-13"    S-14"     M-15"     L-16"     XL-17"
….I've made some torcs and coated them with Pearlex, applying the powder after the item was baked by rubbing diluent where I wanted the powder to adhere.  Popped the torc back into the oven for twenty to thirty minutes, then when cool, varnished them with Diamond Finish Varathane Satin (with IPN). . . . After a year of heavy wear, the torc looks as if it were made yesterday. The  varnish dries in thirty minutes, but, depending on humidity, can take a week or so to fully cure...Katherine Dewey
…....The newer version I had to leach twice, but I got some good results.  I used both, blending them 4 parts Premo to 1 part Flexiclay to make flexible torcs that expand from a one inch opening to large anough to fit around the neck (1/4 inch cable armature makes them close again). I can't wait until either version is official (Dewey)
....Celies' torques is solid round rod (with closure)... the other is several rod-tube "beads" alternated with PMC elements (over two thick wires?)

(...for wire ring neckware, and more on stiffer necklaces which are shorter in length, see above in Chokers )

clay Chains

Nan Roche’s chain necklaces

Kathndoll’s chains (based on Nan Roche’s technique?) –interlocked doubled-over loops

see Jewelry > Rings ta’s realistic gold chains, with small links (made by wrapping a strand of clay composed of an equal mix of Premo and SculpeyFlex around a knitting needle, making one cut across them all, then shaping half of them and baking.  Shape the other half while connecting them to the baked ones.  Re bake all together. (via Diane MacCallum’s instructions)
the other half of the links while at the same time connecting the

Cynthia Tinapple's unusual chain made with Kemper cutters; she cuts round and squares disks with cutters (from a created pattern sheet), then makes lozenge-shaped holes with a somewhat flattened tube, bakes, then cuts diagonally across the bottom of each to piece to be able to slip another piece through, and closes with superglue


Antoinetta’s mini-lessons on rings made entirely from clay
......some made from clay ropes like puzzle rings with multiple-strand knots, etc.
......some with baked faux polymer gemstones placed onto the top of the ring, surrounded by polymer ropes or squished into a circular pad of clay as frames for the stones
...all start with at least two clay rope revolutions, and some have more, around the finger... many also have metallic powder (Dutch Accent site) sure to use a strong brand of polymer clay for clay rings/bands (no Sculpey)... she uses Premo or Bake & Bend (Sulpey Flex)
..... baking extra long may make even stronger, or using a coat of liquid clay on the inside (or outside)

Zara's cool simple rings made with colorful flat clay bands (sometimes two longitudinal strips of different colors, together)
... the focal "bead" of the ring is thick metal finding or
a square thick cane slice
Dona Kato's many fabulous and stylish all-clay rings
...various ring tops... most cane-slice shapes, some quite sculptural (beginning in 4th row)
silastone's various polymer clay rings

Eva Buchala's Mixtec snake ring (wide band of faux ivory with onlays) at Kim Cavender's blog
Berhard Stimpfl-Abele's abstract, all-clay rings, at polymerclaydaily
Marie's rings ... polymer (some with segments of various colors of metallic leaf) some with wire, and beads ....*** look now at? ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itanelli.htm
Shelley's rings with discs and cabochons of clay, in plated adjustable ring shanks (website gone)

silastone's lesson on making a wire ring blank and armature
...3 revolutions
of 16 g jewelry wire around a mandrel... a loop is made at each end of the wire
... ends of wire are wrapped around the 3-wire ring a number of times to hold them together, then then both ends of loop-wire are bent upward so that they can create an armature
...large ball of clay is pressed down onto the upraised loops and the clay is shaped into a smooth pad (beginning of the clay embellishment)
...small clay ball pressed on top of back l to cover the wraps and it's smoothed to the larger clay
Linda's wire rings, made with two or more twisted wires, which are embellished at their ends
Linda's toe rings made of wire
Memory Wire rings,2058,6530,00.html (info and photo) ...gone
...(this diameter of Memory Wire can also be used to make wine glass charms ...
....(see info on using Memory Wire in general, above in Bracelets)

ring blanks
...also see below in Suppliers

I bought a channel ring from Rio Bravo and added some clay in the channel...(I got it at) Rio Grande.... It was only like 5 bucks ….the widest is 6mm which is what mine is..... I don't think the thinner ones would be wide enough to see much detail in the polymer clay.... the 6mm ring comes in ring sizes 6,7,8,and 9..Sara J

I once made some clay skull rings for my son's classmates by first making a mold from a small, cheapie, plastic skull I found somewhere (might even have been from a bag of Halloween rings).... pressed glow-in-the-dark clay into the mold ... baked... antiqued the crevices of most with brown acrylic paint (plus a few with gold acrylic paint or bluish paint, but didn't like those as much).
....I glued the flat-backed molded skulls to flat clay bands I'd made by forming flat noodles of (a strong) clay around a dowel (leaving a small gap for stretch), and baking... might makes them now as whole circles, then cut the noddles apart on the rod while the clay was still warm to create the gap ... The kids thought they were very cool!. . .Diane B.

It may be possible to reposition, curve, etc., clay while it is still warm (for rings, bracelets, etc.)...more about that process is located in Covering > Removable Sleeves)
. . When I took a flat sheet out of the oven, I curved it into a ring for my finger just for the fun of it, and it stayed in that position. I could have reflattened it, but I decided to leave it as a ring. This new clay (Kato clay) has some definate characteristics that sets it apart from the other clays. Deirdre
..Fimo may work as well?

Monica's lesson on making a ring with a cane slice, glued? to a band she macramed

Thumbelina made a 4-5" saguaro cactus ...her rings hang from it's "arms" (and post earrings fit through holes in the brim of its sombrero).

+ belly jewelry

Rio Grande has four types of eyeglass holders for purchase in their wholesale catalog, including the alligator-type spring clips with foam "grabber " inserts instead of teeth. --have a minimum order policy …
…Fire Mountain Gems has two different kinds of “eyeglass holders” (do a search for those words)…they also have “eyeglass pin holders” … to wear as lapel pins (to hold one leg of glasses?)

They can be made any way you want, but since they should be lightweight as possible, many people add the polymer or other beads or whatever just every inch or so along the length... the back part of the chain could also be left without beads or with smaller or sparser ones.

I make the eyeglass leashes several different lengths b/c people seem to have different preferences, depending on height, glasses styles, etc.  I would say the average length- the one I probably do the most of- is 24-25" (including the "thingies" on the ends that hold the glasses)

closeup of one type, with findings

I use Flex Wire....and crimp beads to secure the closure of the wire onto the jump ring or rubber holder. ...I don't know how thick your cord is but if it is too thick, folded over, you might need large crimp beads and super can always put a pretty bead to cover those ends.. . . . I make them approx. 28" long....some of my customers want them longer or shorter. ...I always forget to put them away when I go out for lunch (they make a great BIB...I always seem to find some remnants of my meal nestled on the inside of the sunglass lens) . . . . These can also be used as whistle holders (lanyards) for women sport coaches. Marylu

An eyelgasses holder can also be made like a pin, and attached to a shirt, etc.... just attach the top half of a large split-ring keyring (or a jump ring) to the back side of a pin or molded item, etc.... the bottom half of the ring sticks down below the pin far enough to slip through and hold one arm of a pair of glasses (like some people do ton the top of their shirt)
...hey, you could glue a key ring on any pin you like, using E6000! . . .I`m going to dig in my jewelry box now! Sue

If you go to Sears and you go to their optical department you will see many different styles of eyeglass holders/keepers. You can buy the finding separately also and I think you can find those in the rack that has the reading glasses in Sears and at any drug store that sells reading glasses. maplesugar

Judy's lesson on making as soft eyeglass case
...she creates two sheets of # 6 patterned clay in rectangle shapes (one end rounded)...
she says to use a "machine wh. will sew denim," so this may mean she uses a "denim needle" (sharp and triangular) or just that the machine is reasonably strong?
...adheres microfleece to the inside of each with liquid clay
(leaving outer 1/8" of clay free from fleeece and liquid clay)...bakes 20 min
... sews around 3 sides with long stitch length (tension 2) little more than 1/8" in..... to hold the thread, remove any sewing machine marks and look more supple, coats one entire side (with liquid clay, buffs off the excess and bakes 5 min...same on other side...(a rope or other covering embellishment can be added around the edge of top and/or the 3 sides with liquid clay ... if so, bake 10 min more),1789,HGTV_3236_2219519,00.html

badge holders for work ... ID badges
...badges can use various connectors...e.g., various clips (alligator, lanyard), retractable reels, snaps on a strap, etc.
...some plastic badge holders come with various types of "holes" at top for connecting to neck piece or collar, etc... one long slit, and/or two holes, etc.
......could also hold badge by two ends of a chain or necklace (like eyeglasses leashes... see above)
....Kim Korringa makes necklaces for badges with a thin split key ring --most of her necklaces are seed beads (some of this type are called "beaded lanyards"), with interspersed larger beads...focal bead (often of same type as larger beads hung from center of necklace... the key ring is hung from that which holds the badge
...Judith Skinner's badge covers (to hide ID badges when not in office) polyannie/
.......should be various ways to have a decorative clay piece attached which can cover up the ID when desired
..... way could be to have a retractable reel attached to the back of a polymer face plate, then retract it when not in use
...or could use a swivel hook and put a decorative clay "pendant" sheet on back side... flip to other side when not in use
...pinback for badge (BC-603)
......could also glue on a pinback, or use 2 magnets to hold badge on clothing
...could use these or other ways to connect to a belt, collar or other place
...badge holder with handmade? fancy wire loop at bottom for holding the badge with a snap strap
...embellished wire loops

...cording and beads:
...lots of badge holders, badge clips, retractable reels, strap snaps, etc.
...Office Depot is the easiest place for badge/ID holders. You can order through them online.

a mini-photo album or locket can be made with separate pieces which are hung but swing apart... see details in Pendants & Cording > Other Pendant Ideas and Hinges)

iPod case (cover) --a thin box, open-topped... in this case also hung from neck with beaded necklace as a carrier... aluminum foil form used as a temporary armature, by beadizzygrl
...for photos and lesson, see Vessels-Rock > Other Small Vessels & Containers

belly jewelry ....(or belly/hip/tush necklaces?) ...which swag down body from belt loops
....saw these at a small craft show yesterday....each was 2 strands of beads (one strand about 1 1/2" inches longer than the other)....90% of beads small, about 5mm... about every 10 beads was an accent bead - maybe a larger one or a star or heart or something else. each end, each strand was attached to one of those notebook rings (keyrings?) that open up to hold it looks like a double strand necklace with HUGE end clasps.... But these get clasped to the belt loops on your jeans and drape down your hip or belly or butt, depending on which loops you attach it to. They are adorable.
...the lengths of the strands varied, depending on size/age... 10 - 11 1/2" for a petite 12 yr old, e.g.,.... about 12 -13 1/2" for an adult.
The smaller one i bought used 150 5mm beads and 13 accent beads. Of course, you can use larger beads if you want. Rubyred

see just below for clip-ems (...similar but shorter) and for pierced navel jewelry

MISCELLANEOUS .... & Clip-ems

I made "clip-ems" with many of my odd beads ... I put a sign on the display that they could be clipped to clothing or other items like purses, backpacks and jackets, etc....I mixed and matched my beads with other beads and findings I already had (...about 3-5" long?)
I used a lanyard clip at one end, but wished I had found something a little "classier"
...I strung mine on buna cord but could use any cord
...they sold quite well woman even bought 6 of them in compatable colors to take apart and make a necklace from! (makes me wonder if I just shouldn't have set out a bowl of beads for sale!)
...fairly inexpensive to make ....and fast to do! ....I don't make much jewelry or wear much of it either, but this is something that I myself would put on my purse or jacket. Fayette (gone)
...see similar ideas (but longer) just above in Eye Glass Leashes and Belly Jewelry... and
.... I can see many uses for them like. key rings, fan pulls, attached to a bookmark to dangle over the front of the book. Kim K.
...up here in alaska (cold climates) we call those kind of items "zipper pulls" and they are a big seller year-round ...we spend so much of the year in our parkas, we need something to jazz them up a bit.... I use them on my purse and backpack zippers too. kellie

polymer embellishments on end of pierced navel "posts?"

Since the prints of your fabric are small, (covering the fabric with liquid clay) would work also as an inset in a piece of jewelry as a medallion so you could co-ordinate with specific clothing!!!!!! Think of the possibilities.... Lucille
...If your fabric has pretty pattern (& you can't get the stain out of your shirt), go ahead and cut the fabric into 1" and 2" strips to make bracelets and chokers from them
....coat the fabric strips entirely in liquid clay... bake in oven for recommended time
...cut into choker and bracelet lengths... use either a "ribbon" type clasp or a piece of velcro on each end. Ta Da! Insta-jewelry.
...(this method is from The Mitchell Sister's book "Liquid Polymer Clay". Great book, great fun projects ). Karen Hardy
(see Mixing Media and Sculpting Body&Tools for more on using fabric)

Carly’s lessons on making a multi-strand bracelet (with a medallion bead), and making your own end caps,” and making a crackled center bead with foil and acrylic paint

There are special jewelry findings for having things hang flat against a neck, and they are (at least by one company) called charm holders.  They allow the bead or charm to swivel so it will lay flat.  Charli

PoRRo’s bolo tie
...leather boot laces also work great for bolo ties --you can add clay beads or other embellishment to the ends. Jeannine
...bolo cords and bolo tips (caps) at Rings 'N Things

gold-plating findings are often relatively low cost because the plating lies on the surface of another metal (nickel perhaps???) and tends to wear off.  Of course some gold-plating is better than others, but I've never heard of any that, in practice, didn't wear off, despite advertising claims to the contrary. Gold *FILL* is still fairly affordable (compared to 18K, 22K, etc.), yet it does not wear off because the gold is filled throughout.  In other words, it's mixed somehow with the other metal.  When I started making jewelry, I started with gold plate, not knowing I had a choice, but I switched in a HURRY to gold fill and never looked back. Adrienne
Me, too for gold fill. The economy ear wires at Rings and Things are very reasonable. Good price also at Rio Grande. Trina
I vote for gold filled, too.  It's very reasonably priced.  Most of  the jewelry I have made is either silver or 10K gold filled, with  some special pieces with 14K gold. Gold filled is usually O.K. for people who are allergic to the cheaper wire. Judi

I have found that Magic Stains work very well for coloring metal findings. Carol C. (same as Glass Magic Stains?)

I've spent way more on "jewelry pliers" than I would have on essentially the same thing at Radio Shack.

I accomplish the curve by baking on either a piece of curved cardstock (roll it into a loose tube, then unroll it) or a flattened paper towel or toilet paper tube.  (They retain a bit of curved when flattened.)  These tubes are not my preference, as they sag a little in parts and can cause a distortion in the pin.  There are heavier-duty cardboard tubes inside some plastic wraps, and these tubes usually flatten more uniformly.

I made those tube beads in a Kathy Amt class at the torpedo factory. They are made as a straight tube, over a peice of piano wire, and if you make them just right, they do not crack or break when bent.  Instead they flex.  A 4 or 5 inch one that we made in class would bend right *****around in a circle and could be used as a bracelet. (DB:  or for watchband, over elastic?)  The main key is to use a LOT of Fimo translucent, and make sure it is very evenly conditioned. Then make the tube thin and very consistant in thickness.  Also, it has to be FIMO translucent.  I tried it with Sculpey
      . . . (what Sue Heaser said about making slimline pens.. . .  When I pulled out the skewer core I'd baked the "pen" on, the baked clay was extremely flexible.  It can be bent in a complete  circle (and farther) with no hint of stress.  I was a little worried about the floppiness of my pen, but haven't solved that problem yet, as it turned out to be too slim to insert the ink tube.    I used 100% CFC/Premo clay, **no transluscent of any kind.**    

what is hard to see is just how thin the tubes were rolled on the stiff straight wire to begin with.  VERY thin.

My trick is to bake "slowly and lowly" - maybe 265 degrees for an hour - and then a Pier Voulkos trick: bring the oven temp up to 300 degrees, with your eye on the thermometer the entire time. The SECOND it hits 300, shut the oven off and let the pieces cool until you can grab them out of the oven bare-handed.  Awesome flexibility is the result..

earring holder?. . . How about using a staple gun to attach the screen to a picture frame or stretcher bars ( they could be dressed up nice!)

I have a texture stamp made by bunching turkey bag netting and running it through the pasta machine with clay. From that I made another stamp so I  could backfill the impression with LS. It looks really cool! At one of my  workshops, one student went crazy over it. She said it looked like neurologic tissue. She was some sort of medical researcher, I think.   Jody B.
…Oh, Jody, imagine a necklace with neurologic tissue textures all over it!  Medical students would love it! <G>
 You could make little cell and organ beads to go with it! LOL!  JAN 

Could you use the flocking (e.g., Soft Flock, by Plaid, at Michaels) to finish off the back of a pin or pendant? ....if so, it could substitute on a lot of pieces that I now have to glue suede on to . Carolyn . . . (see more on flocking in Vessels > Linings)

I purchased my black rubber o-rings from H & D Distributors, Inc.  Not online as far as I know  phone number 214-351-1251.  I called my order in & rec'd it in about 4 days. Oscelyn
      Ask for Grace there.  Oh, by the way, I've never used the cord sold by the Clay  Factory, so I can't compare it, but the buna cord from the Rio  Grande catalog will leave marks on light colored clothing.  What  I've gotten from I.B. Moore doesn't. Irene
     You can use the O-rings as stoppers for beads.  In other word you could use a very small OD cord and string beads on it every two or three inches instead of all together.  Or you can space larger heavier beads some distance apart.  Dotty

<How does Mike Buesseler get such a smooth area around his trim?>
      . . . . about the trim on my lockets. I'm happy to share what I can.  Although it's mostly a matter of just attaching a thin, fairly narrow strip around the edge of the locket (or whatever), the important part, with metallic clays, is to consider that the edge showing will be dull if you CUT it. So, I use a simple trick borrowed from sewing, I think. I use a rolled "hem" approach. As you prepare the edging, running it through the pasta machine, always fold the piece lengthwise in half. This means that one edge will have that fold--a rounded look--showing. That is the edge that must face out. When you lay the strip around your piece, make it flush with the face of the piece, them trim it off in the back.   Mike B.

How the heck do you get such a wonderfully even and smooth frame around them? Dotty.
 I usually roll a snake of clay..and run it through the pasta machine. I then lay the piece I'm working on face down on a piece of paper..and wrap the flattened snake around it. With it laying makes the top edge (the one facing you) line up smoothly with the finished piece. Trim the snake..and then trim off any overlap there may be above the back of the piece JAN 

for many clay bezels, see

Check out Rio Grande for metal bezels
...Bezels  are different then cabochon settings though. A bezel is like a little tin with a bottom and a cabochon setting is the ring  that goes around the edge (many people refer to the ring-type as "bezels" though). Rio Grande has only sterling bezels, but I think they have base metal c. settings. They have just about everything else in base metal. They don't have an online catalog, but you can order a catalog and place orders on line. obirtasil
....caneguru now carries various metal bezel shapes, simple and compound
(see more on metal bezels in Frames > Very Small Frames)
... also do a Ctrl + f search on this page
using the word bezel, for more examples)

Have to say Dianne, cernit is great for jewerly, it is very very strenght after baking, and the colors are almost translucent (except the white opaque of course). The better thing is that you don´t have to spend much time on condition. Gaby

clear, round and flat glass marbles and pebbles can be "crackled" to create some interesting effects, then used for jewelry (info about doing that is in Misc > Cracked Marbles)

Renaissance, etc. jewelry & crowns (& book)

*LadysMaidJewels Medieval, Renaissance, etc., pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder and jewels (gone?)
Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces & chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems 
Christelle's gold jewelry pieces with gems in bezels, with many ropes, textured ropes, etc.

Claire's jewelry pieces with gems and onlays, etc.
Eni's bezels, and doodles of clay ropes with real stones, molded items, mixed media, etc,
, antiqued

Claire's jewelry
old-style crowns & headwear
Claude Delattre’s many necklaces and pendants (some ethnic)… many are multiple strand
(also interesting bead shapes, clasps, architecture, fauxs) (click on “Les Creations,” then click on each of the galleries)
Marina's (Marie) pendants, with many clay ropes framing the stones
*** look now at ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itinglese/emonili.htm
(clink on each for more)
Marina's realistic opals and brown/green/blue stones (see lessons on opals and stones in Fauxs-Many)
*** look now at ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itciondoli.htm
Dutch Accent's polished & baked polymer "stones" set in clay rope bezels for rings... and also gold/silver multi-rope rings and puzzle rings
Alison Ingham’s ancient-look pins, some mixed media, clay gun extrusions, stones, etc. (click Enter... then click on Brooches & Necklaces & Earrings, for many more) 
many clay ropes and other onlays, thick bezel around glass cabochons, etc. (look through many of the albums!)
Dotty's Renaissance style jewelery and kaleidoscope (bottom of page)
M. Briggs' mini-book with gold covers...encrusted with faux gemstones onlaid onto the covers (either glued on with faux gold bezels painted? around bottoms, or gold bezels around each created by pressing stone into a pad of clay then pressing to cover and coating with gold powder)

faux metal "ethnic" beads can be made from "filigree" onlays ( clay gun extrusions) or molded-stamped-etc bits (placed on a bead, then coated with a metallic powder, etc
Janet's large "ethnic" silver beads with filigree onlays (or could be real-metal clays)
Sarajane's gold filigree onlays (shaved stamped or molded clay sheets) on top of colored clay barrettes & eggs and

some antique-Baroque jewelry and hints on how can be made, from Creating Your Own Antique Jewelry:Taking Inspiration from Great Museums Around the World, by Cris Dupouy...(click on several of the pages)
Egyptian, Greek
, Byzantine, Oriental, Hindu, Pre-Columbian art & objects (look around for jewelry, costume)


eBay and etsy often have jewelry blanks and findings

Fire Mountain Gems ..retail and wholesale
...There are other places from which I order stones and faceted gem setting, but these are the ones I go back to for findings most often.   Sara Jane in NC

Rings and Things only... also jewelry info and bulletin board... 800-366-2156

Rio Grande  (aka River Gems & Findings)…Very consistently high quality findings in precious metals.  Good price breaks can require large volumes, but they have almost everything you could need.  I love their equipment catalog , too.  On-line ordering is still easier if you have the print catalog in your hand first, IMO, as their web site offers just a sampling of their huge stock.  Great selection and service.    ..Sara Jane in NC .. wholesale only?

I like Rio Grande for high quality stuff in general.  Their catalog (free if you have a license #) is lovely to look at.
Fire Mountain Gems is cheap, but I feel a little iffy about their high quality sometimes.
Rings and Things is nice for a balance between the two.  Irene

Firemountain is terrific if you buy at their price breaks...also I order frequently from rings n' things.  But I find that I watch Firemountain closely...because often I get items less expensively there. 
Rio Grande
, while it has lovely findings, can not usually  beat these two companies prices.  Dianne C.

I really like the 'Rio Grande' Gems and Findings catalog. It's free (800 545-6566), it's huge (over 500 pages . . .It also has lots of tips on how to use the products as well as some great charts. . . The tips have their own index in the back of the catalog. There is no minimum order. It is a great resource. VRJAMES
Rio's catalogs are very comprehensive -- or overwhelming, depending on your comfort level in jewelry making and design. For example, they don't have a few hammers, they've got 43 different hammers! In other words, if you're starting out and aren't sure of the direction or area you want to specialize in, Rio Grande might not be the source for you. If you've been making jewelry for a while and feel that the local or basic tools you have are no longer sufficient or capable of allowing you to produce a higher quality product, then Rio is probably a really good place to check out. However, as long as the catalogs are free, what the hey... you know ;-) Desiree
Why, why, why is
Rio Grande (aka River Gems and Findings) referred to so often?  If you are buying in small quantities, they are SO expensive.  There are only a few things for which they're an exclusive source.

Rio Grande:   Very consistently high quality findings in precious metals.  Good price breaks can require large volumes, but they have almost everything you could need.  I love their equipment catalog , too.  On-line ordering is still easier if you have the print catalog in your hand first, IMO, as their web site offers just a sampling of their huge stock.  Great selection and service.

Fire Mountain Gems.  I think you have to read their descriptions carefully to make sure of the quality you are getting, but they do have some items that are  hard to find elsewhere and usually at good prices.  Great selection of cloisonné and lower  grade stones.  I don't use them as much for findings.  But they do offer great  service and I have never had problems with returns if something is not as you expected.   Also check the web site for specials. 800-423-2319 or

Metalliferous (1-212-944-0909) , anodized aluminum and niobium wire, along with a wide selection of brass, copper, silver, nickel and other metals (plus business card holders, and other stuff?).
….Metalliferous has slightly better overall prices than
River Gems, but I've ordered from both and had good experiences with both vendors.

Halstead Bead:  Very consistently high quality also;  good, and well chosen, but more limited selection.  If they have what you need, the price breaks are usually cheaper than Rio Grande at lower quantities.  $50 minimum order, and they are really still working on their on-line catalog.  But you can order their print catalog from there by emailing them.  Outstanding service. Sara Jane in NC

Eclectic Etc….. & supplies

Primitive Earth Beads ... findings

Munro Corporation. They carry such a multitude of things!….

Ornamental Resources...their catalog is a bit pricey,  but they have EVERYTHING you could possibly ever want with regard to jewelry  (they have a LOT anyway). They ship quick and are good quality and accurate  with the orders.their number is:  1-800-876-6762 …For orders or for information: 303-279-2102 …. I've been ordering from them for years now and have always been satisfied.

Land of Odds

Consumer Crafts ...
earring findings, magnetic clasps, other findings... beads... reamers, _________, inexpensive pliers .... other craft supplies

Eloxite Corp (Your complete rockhound and jewelry craft supply house!"). . I'm sure you can order your catalog online and they have 14 pages of buckles.  you should find and they have good prices, too.
 Indian Jewelers Supply Co. …For wire and sheet - gold, gold filled ,silver, nickel, brass, copper - it's hard to beat in Albuquerque, NM (1-800-545-6540).  They also have tools, display stuff, a smattering of stones, etc.  EXCELLENT prices.

Try Dixon Paper Store   in Colo. Spgs. Ph  (719) 577-4260   Fax (719) 577-9032
I have found that their earring box prices are very reasonable. I buy small cotton filled jewelry boxes there for .25 each, retail. I'm sure they have a catalog too but I think it costs a few bucks.  (all kinds of display things, bags, etc.)

UMX Fashion Supplies .... Purse hardware: Handles, Frames, Magnetic Snaps, Buttons; Fasteners: Plastic Buckle, Snap Hook, Hook, D-Ring, Tri-Ring, Square-Ring Cord Lock, Cord Stopper, Cord Fastener Lanyard Supply, Accessory, Parts Suspender Clip Series Snap Buttons, Fasteners, Rivet - Stud & Post Fashion Buttons, Clothing buttons Fashion Buckles, Belt Buckles , Zipper Pulls, Zipper Sliders & Tabs, Fashion Trims-attachers, all kinds of Chains.. Betty

lanyards ...cording with attachers on end, badge holders, badge clips...some retractable, zipper lanyards, ball chain necklaces, keyrings, cord locks, buckles, snap hooks, etc.

more suppliers from Joanie

AJA Wholesale Findings
Accent Beads 
Semi precious gemstone beads and jewelry making supplies
Provides low cost beads, findings and jewelry components to bead shops and jewelry designers.
ARI Imports Inc. 
Provides low cost beads, findings and jewelry components to bead shops and jewelry designers.
Bally Bead 
Beads and findings from around the world.
Contemporary Beads & Castings, Inc. 
Offering a wide array of jewelry components for craft and bead stores, as well as for the jewelry designer.
House of Orange 
Wholesale beads and jewelry findings
Johnson Brothers F.C., Inc. 
Manufacturer and wholesale distributor of diamond saw blades, grinding wheels and drills. Complete line of jewelry metal working and gemstone working products.
SS Traders 
Wholesale brass jewelry components. Catalog order only.
Manufacturer and wholesale distributor of watches, jewelry components, charms, beads, crafts and other crafted items.  


Claude Delattre’s many necklaces and pendants, bead shapes, clasps, architecture, fauxs (click on Les Creations, then on all galleries)
Patricia Kimle’s jewelry
Julie’s bracelets & necklaces, pins, etc., mostly featuring whimsical canes

Antoinetta’s jewelry possibilities  
Linda Goff wire-wrapped-outline and other fabulous pins, etc., many techniques
Adorables' animals & whimsical barrettes, jewelry, etc.
Sunni’s string of Tibetan prayer beads & bracelet
Debbie Jackson's African style jewelry
 Tory Hughes interview (photos of necklaces & philosophy)  (gone?)
Google's many results from the search phrase "polymer clay jewelry"

GONE or NEED to find new URL's
Karen’s lesson on how to create a multi-bead necklace & nice wire clasp (gone)
Burgess' sculptural flowers & jewelry (gone?)
Jan R's mask pendants, formed over small river rocks
*Klew's drum&Aspen beads, leaf pods, necklace (gone?)
 *Metro.Detroit Guild galleries  (gone?)
 *Becca's interesting jewelry (wire, etc.)
Olga's people and faces pins, & necklaces (gone?)
*Jane's b'fly, canes, earrings (gone?)  
 Designs By Margo - Handcrafted Jewelry (gone?)
Cassie Doyon: frames, lanterns, jewelry,etc. (gone?)
  Lynelle's 3-D triangle bead & bracelets  (gone?)
 Black & Gold Swap (gone??)
Mia's jewelry (mostly necklaces) (gone?)
  CZC:unusual beads (gone?)
Susan’s abstract and some-powdered, some mokume, etc., pieces (gone)
Celie Fago’s carved bracelets (gone)  

 (SEE ALSO:  Beads --and tube beads, Wire, Pendants, Glues for pinbacks & other, individual techniques, etc. )