All resins ....general
info.
Polyester Resins (2-pt
clear)
...gen. info
...surface
problems + sanding
...heat,
humidity, catalyst
...using + molds
...colorants
...brands
+info + uses
Epoxy Resins (2-pt
clear)
...Hard-surface epoxy resins (most
common)
........gen. info
........brands
(Liquid Glass, Envirotex Lite, Ultra-Glo, etc + epoxy glue)
............brands
found at hardware stores + covering larger surfaces like tables, trays,
bartops
........preparing + sealing
+ mixing
........coloring + inclusions
+ fauxs
........applying -gen.info
+ bubbles, drips
........curing
........cutting,
drilling, sanding-shaping, polishing
........coating
(brushing on, dipping)
........casting
(+ embedments + gen. info)
...........in
molds, for freestanding pieces... releases
...........in
molds or not, for partial embedding + adhesion
...........in temporary
cells from other materials (alum. foil, etc.), for custom free-form shapes
...........in
permanent cells (in bezels-frames-bottle caps-pendant trays/etc, or in clay,
etc....for pendants, photos, etc)
........faux
water made with resins
...........or using softer
epoxy resins, one-part gels, acrylic gel mediums, or unknown materials
........other
ways to use resins (mini-foods, tabletops,
..............stiffening, making
containers, snowglobes, etc.)
.........more technical info.
.......pre-colored
resins, to buy ( "cold enamels," "epoxy enamels")
...Softer-surface
epoxy resins (floral setting resins like Acrylic Water, Liquid
Illusion, etc.)...2-pt, clear
......one part,
reusable clear gels
...Epoxy Adhesives
(primarily used as adhesives)
Simulations
of resin (1 pt materials) --Future-Pledge, polyurethane/Varathane,
dimensional glues/DiamondGlaze, etc.
Other
meltable, castable plastics (plastic worms, Army men)
Glass
paints & Dip-It simulations
MISC.
... crackle, shrink plastic, etc.
Magnets
& magnet sheet
Magnifying lenses +
magnifying glasses
Fiberoptic strands
& LEDs
Hypertufa
"Non-Polymer
Clays" category has been moved to
Sculpting>Clays
"Other
Molding Materials" category has
been moved to
Molds
OTHER MATERIALS
RESINS
(2-part, synthetic
resins)
NOTE: All resins can
be dangerous if not handled
properly (particularly during manufacturing)
........polyester
('casting") resins are "more dangerous" in these
ways than are epoxy resins (see Polyester below)
...inhalation
... make sure there is sufficient ventilation so you won't inhale a
lot
...ingestion (getting in mouth or eating, etc.)
...skin
contact (including eyes, etc.)
If you feel you have any symptoms, or would
just like more info (doesn't need to be an emergency),
contact the Poison
Control Center at 1-800-222-1222
....about.com has more info on symptoms, etc.
http://adam.about.com/encyclopedia/firstaid/Plastic-resin-hardener-poisoning.htm
Casting
is the process of producing a part in a mold
... resins of various types
can be cast in molds, and some can be used to make molds as well..
definitions?
http://composite.about.com/library/glossary/p/bldef-p4161.htm
"SPECIFICATIONS" MSDS ADD
to subcategory list ...ADD to Table of Contents ...ADD water stuff/ponds to Houses
and Miniatures??
Do Finishes page ... (resins as finishes) and refer rest here
what are resins?...
what types are there?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin
...synthetic
resins are materials with similar properties to natural resins (thick
liquids from pine and other trees, which are also adhesive when they harden)
Resins are a thermosetting type of plastic rather than a thermoplastic type like polymer clay.
There are various types of resins
that artists sometimes use:
...epoxy.....polyester...
urethanes/polyurethane... acrylic**
......urethanes
--also called polyurethanes won't be covered here (they're 2-pt
"RTV" materials, which are not clear, smell terrible, and yield
a rubbery or foam material ... and all set up quickly?)
Re
the term acrylic resin,** I've read both that acrylic resins are
specific type which are "highly toxic," but also that acrylic resin
is just an overall name for the basic category synthetic resins
that includes epoxy and polyester ("casting") resins
. . . don't
know which is correct, but IMO it's better to refer to the specific type of resin
being referred to whever possible because their characteristics, saftey, and uses
are different.
epoxy
resins and polyester resins can both be used for casting and
coating, but they have different characteristics
that are important to understand to know which would be better for a specific
situation (see each below, for more)
clear
epoxy resins come in two forms crafters might use... one gives a
hard surface, and the other a softer surface
(used less often)
(...polyester
and epoxy resins are both used for fiberglass as well --versions of each
can be purchased for that use)
Devcon's
30-minute (2-Ton) 2-pt epoxy glue can be used instead of larger containers
of epoxy resin, according to Nancy Banks
... it's the clearest brand of epoxy
glue (some are yellowish, etc), and there will be about 7 minutes working time
before gelling begins.
....polyester
resin is what most (opaque) figurines you see in chain stores
are cast in
....polyester resins are used in
all types of composite construction (commonly referred to as fiberglass resin
or boat resin)
....polyester
resin cannot be applied over epoxy resin (but
epoxy resin can be applied over polyester resin)
....polyester
resins tend to be fairly rigid when cured... and also slightly
more brittle than epoxy resins.. may chip if dropped
....all?
resins eventually susceptible to yellowing
from UV light
(direct sun... fluorescents),
but polyester better or not at all?
....(previously-?) cast polyester
resins become rubbery if ever subjected to temperatures
over 200ºF
Some (most?) info contained in the Epoxy category below would also apply to polyester resins, so be sure to read that too.
All resins are flammable, I think, and prob. can't put out that fire with water (will make worse).
All
resins shrink a bit while curing (epoxies less than
polyesters) so this will mean that the resin will sink a
little in the middle, I think, and therefore may
"creep" up the sides of the container or mold a tad (around edges)
....if
using a mold, this can be sanded off if desired, or used as the back
side
....if using cells and depressions, will probably not be noticed
or look "normal" for what it may be imitating (water, etc.)
releases
or resists (for all resins?)
...waxes (pure carnauba ... beeswax?... Pledge) ...PVA release (poly vinyl alcohol).....masking
tape, clear tape ....modeling clay .... acrylic matte medium ... Armorall/ silicone
DB
put below somewhere
(for molds,
see below in Polyesters, and some in Epoxies)
Crystal
Clear 200, 202, & 204...(newer?) polyurethane resin ...clear..., with
diff. setting times (mix 1 to 1)
by Smooth-On .... designed for applications
that require absolute clarity. This product will cure at room temperature, but
a 150 ? post-cure will speed it up. The cured castings are UV stable (non-yellowing)
and can be pigmented using color dispersions.
....Poly 1410, bY Polytek?...A
two-component, water-clear, polyurethane casting system, formulated specifically
for applications where optical clarity is a must.
MANY
VIDEO LESSONS on using all kinds of resin at YouTube, for all kinds of
purposes
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=resin
POLYESTER resins (clear)
(sometimes
called "casting resins" since that's their
main use)
These
come in 2 parts, but just a few drops of one part (the catalyst,
or activator or hardener) are added to the other part (the resin) ...polyester
resins are not mixed in equal parts
like epoxy resins are
....the number
of drops required depends on the thickness of the layer
to be poured (if more than one)
Polyester
resins are called "thermosetting plastic resins" because heat
causes them to set up and cure (= polymerization), though they would do this on
their own in a year or two.... so a catalyst will speed up the curing time
Polyesters
will completely cure
only in the absence of air (so areas of a cast exposed to
air may not cure thoroughly... see below)
Polyester
resins can be cast in thicker depths than epoxy resins (in
a mold or in a dammed/cell area)
...(this is main advantage besides
price, and it's generally used in this way)
...but, could also be brushed
on, or poured on or over items, as with epoxies??
(see below, under Epoxy Resins)
Polyester resins:
...cheaper
than epoxy resins
...less "safe" for
lungs than epoxy resins
...may
need to be cast bottom-up
because of "surface" problems
of most (see below)
...tend
to be fairly rigid when cured... and also slightly
more brittle than epoxy resins.. may chip if dropped
...can
create too much
heat for some polymer clays
...most
(opaque) figurines in chain stores have been cast with (opaque)
polyester resins
...polyester resins are used
in all types of "composite" construction (also commonly referred to
as fiberglass resin or boat resin)
...polyester
resin cannot be applied over epoxy resin (but
epoxy resin can be applied over polyester resin)
...(previously-?)cast
polyester resins become rubbery if ever subjected
to temperatures over 200ºF
...all? resins are
eventually susceptible to yellowing from
UV light (direct
sun... fluorescents), but polyester better
or not at all? ...though could coat with UV-resistant acrylic finish?
more
video lessons on using resin for jewelry at YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/results?orig_query=epoxy+resin+jewelry+pendant
(check to make sure which resin they're using though!...
epoxy resin is mixed one to one, where polyester or deep "casting"
resin is mixed using just a little catalyst-hardener to a lot of resin)
Tap
Plastic's video lesson on using a polyester resin in a (large)
mold to embed pennies in one of the layers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0Wp9CmSKFY
many
other video lessons on using epoxy and polyester resins at YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=resin+jewelry
safety
warnings:
.....
more "toxic" to work with than epoxy resins
(polyester resin itself is okay, but the substances which
make it work--catalysts aren't (e.g., styrene, toluene,
MEKP)
..... serious consequences
if MEKP (catalyst) gets in eyes...(corrosion
& possible blindness) ...wear some kind of glasses!
......always
use ventilation (work
in well ventilated area, garage, etc) ....some people also use a mask also, but
many don't... headaches possible
.......keep
off skin (irritation) &
away from mouth... ..keep away from food
(may affect its taste)
.......not to be used by
children .... also
store away from children
MSDS
safety info: http://www.delviesplastics.com/pdf%20files/casting%20msds.pdf
wear
a mask in some situations:
1...if mixing and using a lot of polyester resin or you
don't have good ventilation
......you need a mask/filter rated for
OV (organic vapors) for (polyester resins)....You don't need to
change the filters on the mask every time which is good, since the filters cost
around $10.
2...you also need to wear a mask when sanding
very much cured resin, but you need a different filter then since you'll need
it to filter out particles, not vapors. I think the one that I have is P95
or P100.
...There are also combo filters that block both particles
and vapors, but they cost twice as much since they basically have the two layers
sandwiched together...since you don't need to block the particles and the vapors
at the same time, the combo filters aren't best suited for resin casting. I imagine
it's also more difficult to breathe with the combo filter than with a regular
filter. ...There isn't a good way to know if a filter is "still working"
that I know of. However, to prolong filter life, take them off when not in use
and store them in a ziplock bag. This way, they're not "filtering" anything
that might be in the air, getting dusty, and so on. hello color!
....should
use (and store) at 65-75 degrees
...and at less than
60% humidity
....shelf
life: use within 9-12 months
....do not pour resin into
sink (will clog
drain) ...also do not pour mixed resin back
into can
...polyesters
really stink
("styrene odor")... much more than epoxies (...odor may
also remain in area and on cured resin, for
up to several weeks?)
...not quite
as much final strength as epoxies (but that may not matter to us)
...use
a disposable brush
and/or mixing tools
......but don't use waxed
cups (will retard curing), or Styrofoam
or clear plastic cups/materials, for polyester
resins
Curing of resin is caused when
heat is generated by the chemical reaction that takes place when
catalyst is added to resin.
... in my experience, the heat generated (by polyester
resin) can badly affect polymer clay (I've
had my clay develop marks and odd
coloration). Kathy Davis
(...epoxy resin doesn't get as hot....the
heat may not even be noticeable when using small amounts of epoxy).
The
deeper the layer to be poured, the fewer drops
of catalyst need to be added to the resin
...(e.g., for 1 oz.of resin...
1/8" depth requires 12-15 drops ....but for thicker layers
like 1 - 1 1/2" only 4 drops required)
...The
thicker the layer, less catalyst is needed... the thinner the layer, more catalyst
is needed
...the label recipe is very conservative in the drops of catalyst
to be added
...experimentation
is needed because using more layers will add to the total amount (of heat generated),
humidity diff's, etc.(and fewer drops are used for
certain plastic molds than others)
...too much
catalyst makes resin set faster, but also creates too
much heat
.......this can lead to fracturing of resin, or fading
of embedments ...or distortion of vinyl- or styrene-based plastic
molds
.........don't
cure (polyester) resin directly on Styrofoam-styrene...will
melt (...epoxy
resins would be ok tho)
...........(to
use Styrfoam as a "mold" for polyester, place plastic wrap on top, then
add resin.. peel off after curing. Judi)
...too
little catalyst will create a piece with a sticky
or tacky
final surface (but some is normal)
......One
thing we found in our diorama is that the resin surface remains slightly sticky,
and will attract dust (virtually impossible
to remove!)
.............I have heard this being said, but have never found
it to be true if you use the "correct" type
of resin. ...my resin water (epoxy prob.) is never sticky on top!
Sue
If the room your're
working in is below 65 degrees F,
it will slow down the curing.
...If the room is
over 75 degrees F, it will accelerate the
curing and may cause yellowing and/or
cracking.
Too much colorant can slow or prevent proper curing.
NOT-FULLY-CURED
final surface (...this is normal for
polyester resins)
...the last surface (next to open air) created may
actually feel tacky or sticky
...but also may not feel tacky.. though will not be fully cured regardless
...that
final surface may also be cloudy or have a
bumpy appearance
This
type of resin (as opposed to epoxy resin) isn't
supposed to
"fully" cure while exposed
to air, and to get really hard (this would be only the
top surface if resin is used in a mold
)
...for some uses (as with "fiberglass cloth" between
the resin layers --to use as a "laminating" resin), this tackiness and
incomplete curing can be an advantage because it allows every new layer to be
able to be joined to previous the previous layer on a molecular level
...but
it also means that the topmost
surface
(the exposed-to-air side) of the resin will need
more work if it will show (because it may
not be clear enough, or may feel tacky, and will have a rippled or bumpy texture)
So...polyester resin (surfaces) need to be deprived
of air to fully cure (even though surface may not feel tacky
after curing)... some ways to do that:
1....mylar
...cover wet resin with 5 mil thick polyester film
(Mylar)... will impart a high gloss finish (with no further treatment)
........a
Tap Plastics employee said that a rubbery plastic bag could
be pressed hard on top surface of (partly cured?) resin then out
toward edges repeatedly, then pulled off (afterwards?) to give a good surface
too
.......or? stretch clear plastic wrap over the surface but not touching.
This will seal off the air/humidity resulting in a tack free surface...easy to
apply and fast drying
2....(acrylic) resin spray
--spray for resin...e.g., Castin'Craft Resin Spray,
Envirotex Resin Spray...use as a finish coat to seal polyester
resin castings, cover imperfections, and give a tack-free finish
........(can
also be used as a multi-purpose clear gloss finish that allows user to embed or
encase almost any object in crystal clear plastic ...can be used to coat wood,
dried naturals, sea-shells, pre-sealed paper, and fabric)
......I prefer
resin spray to "curing agent" since it doesn't create a hazy
or cloudy appearance at all (and is easier to u se?)
......can (several coats?)
of a regular "acrylic spray" be used instead?... Krylon 1303/gloss was
mentioned, for example... also clear fingernail polish for small items mentioned
by someone (acrylic or "enamel" too?)
....."or you can use a
PVA spray (poly-vinyl acetate)--it's a "mold
release" agent also (prevents air from getting to the surface) and is
water soluble so will readily wash off"
3...epoxy resin
... use a coat of on top
4...surface curing agent (a surfacing
or "finishing" resin) --basically a wax (+ styrene?)
which will keep out the air
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=42
.......surface
curing agent is added as a final thin layer of resin when doing
a casting (...6-8 drops, per oz of resin) so the suface will fully cure
.......it
creates a wax film over the resin which makes
its surface airtight and so eliminates tackiness, but can also make the surface
cloudy or hazy (so
use it sparingly... the thinner the layer, the less visible
the haze will be though...not best for jewelry applications?)... the haze
can be minimized by being buffed away using rubbing or polishing compound after
it has fully cured
.....or?... (for flat castings, the entire surface will
most likely need to be sanded flat since polyester resin tends to cure with some
ripple effect on the surface)
5...some
people also feel cloudiness could be caused by too little catalyst
or by insufficient mixing, but others disagree
6...sanding-buffing...cloudiness
can be minimized by being buffed away with rubbing or
polishing compound after it (the resin?) has fully cured
............("the
entire surface that was next to the air while curing will most likely need to
be sanded as well since polyester resin tends to cure with some surface
ripple effect")
...when a casting has a cloudy surface,
can try several things:.
......the
first involves sanding with 120 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit
........follow
the sanding by buffing with a buffing compound or Jewelers' rouge... though
epoxy resin doesn't require the compound, and it's harder than polyester resin?
........I've
heard you can also hit sanded areas with a bit of Future-Pledge floor polish
(which is a cyanoacrylate)... perhaps only small areas like edges though?
.......someone
said you can also lightly sand your casting and then finish with a solvent-based
(?) clear acrylic spray
.......can
also apply a coat of epoxy resin (or epoxy glue?)
(...see
also just below for more on sanding/polishing and other possibilities
...excess
humidity can cause cloudiness in the
casting
.......stickiness (from humidity,
etc.) which isn't permanent may go away if you just allow more days
to harden
.........I'm in South Florida (which means constant
humidity).....to help with that, I just use more catalyst than called
for to help
.........also, I bring them inside the house to finish drying
after the pieces have set a while (couple hours)
.........also, after 2-3
days I add a protective coat on the surface (clear nail polish works best
for small pieces, or a high-gloss clear acrylic (solvent-based or acrylic?) ...no
stickiness! glitterkick
ORANGE-PEEL
surface, or ripple
surface...(normal)
...if the top layer of poured resin
will be the non-showing, underside
of a "cast" object, that non-smooth surface may not show
or will show less (through other side)
........can hide it a bit by adding
a bit of colorant to that (final) layer
........or
can glue on felt or cork backing (epoxy glue will work)
...if
the top layer of poured resin will be the showing surface
however:
........to fix the unevenness, you'll need to
sand-polish (80 grit till flat... then wet-sand 240, 400,
600 grit)... then polish (jeweler's rouge or polishing compound)...though
polishing can be extremely time
consuming
...or
try carnauba wax, Pledge, etc. ??
...clinea suggests using Novus
# 2 & 3 (plastic scratch fillers)
since "minute scratches are almost unavoidable"
larger
scratches
...sand and buff-polish (see above)
The catalyst (hardener) starts a chemical reaction that generates heat (creates an "exotherm") as the parts polymerize (which cures the resin).
With
small amounts of resin, the heat of curing is not noticeable
...if
you're using larger amounts though (like when I pour for waterfalls), you
can feel some heat if you place your hand over the curing resin.
Judi
...if covering a whole table, etc., you're like to feel lots of heat
...because heat accelerates chemical reactions, all resins cure from the INSIDE
out.
....using too much catalyst will
overheat the casting (excessive exotherm), causing resin shrinkage
and cracking, and discoloration
....exotherm can be controlled by adjusting
......the amount of
catalyst used.... the volume or thickness of resin poured
(at one time)... and ambient temperature (the higher the temperature,
the faster the gel ... too fast a cure will cause
fractures.)
......thicker (taller) pours require less catalyst
because a thick casting retains heat... whereas a thin section dissipates
the heat requiring more catalyst.
.....humidity slows the
cure of resin... moisture in the resin, which may come from humidity in the
air or from temperature present in embedments, can cause the resin or casting
to be cloudy.....keep resin capped tightly when
not in use.
...cold weather during
shipment or in storage can cause crystallization
or cloudiness to
occur... to clear up, put the bottle in a pan filled with very hot tap water ...should
clear within 15-30 minutes ...always store between 70-85° F
http://www.bdclassic.com/instructions/AristocratHG.pdf
..........(is
all of this this is true for polyesters?):........
Must seal very porous
items before contact with resin to prevent venting of air
bubbles in resin, and possible “blotching”
later... and also to prevent papers from becoming translucent
(though this can be done intentionally for a translucent efffect) or certain "inks"
from bleeding:
...
can apply a thin coat
of completely mixed resin-hardener as sealer (wait 4-12 hrs.) for
greatest contrast (4 if sand?)
....or can buy
special sealer (like Ultra Seal) ...prob. diluted white glue
....or
use white glue (4:1 with water) ....(wait 4 hrs.after application)
to keep it from becoming translucent....
let dry glue completely... then use resin (1-2 thin coats?)
....or seal
with 2 coats of a fast-drying acrylic spray (such as Envirotex Spray Sealer),
esp. for delicate items
..may also need to seal
any dyed or painted objects
...test for color fastness since color may bleed
into the casting
STAGES: ..... soft gel
in 15-20 min... firm gel in 20-30 min
....hardening
(click-hard) 4-24 hrs, depending on temp... could take sev.
more days to completely dry-cure
Can
cast in layers in order to add embedments, or to create layers
of diff.color
(each layer can be up to a maximum of
1 1/2" deep)
....pour first layer (the
bottom side of this layer
will
be the top
surface of final cast)
...... and therefore
won't be sticky or have orange-peely surface (as long
as porportions are correct)
.......polyester resin (like polymer clay) will
take on a shiny surface when it's cured touching a smooth surface
...allow
to gel 15-25 minutes (can test with stick) ....do
not move
mold after this
........each layer which will
have an embedment on it must gel firmly enough to support added
object
....add object(s) face down ...(can dip embedment
into mixed resin first to prevent bubbles
later, esp. if dimensional)
....add another layer of resin
...can repeat layers
........(after 5 layers,
each layer will add to heat build-up so will affect # of
drops to use)
....if desired, can color last layer (will be bottom),
after prev. layer has gelled (see Coloring, & Orange Peel, below)
....must
pour each new layer before the
previous layer cures completely
because it shrinks as it cures (more than epoxies), and pulls away from
the sides of the mold (so pouring a new layer after this happens will allow the
new resin to flow down the sides of the older layer, and item
cast won't have smooth sides)
...when hard (4-24 hrs.)
flex the mold, and eject cured resin onto mylar or waxed
paper
.......do not
handle resin until it is absolutely tack-free (or can get fingerprints,
cloudiness)
...clean up (while wet) with acetone or rubbing alcohol
sanding
(and polishing) allows you to also get rid of the sharp edges that
often result from the resin having been cast in molds
....see Gen. Info
above for more on this resin "creep" up
the sides of a container caused by shrinking
(see details on sanding
above under "orange peel surface")
clinea suggests using Novus #1 (special plastic cleaner), to clean and shine the finished resin
FLEXIBLE
molds
...molds which create the clearest
castings are purchased molds made from HDPE molds (High Density PolyEthylene
plastic)
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/castresn/castresn.htm
(1/2 way down page)
http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/CastingMaterials/POLYESTER/polyester.htm
.......Tupperware
and RubberMaid containers are also made from HDPE ...no mold release
agent is required
...... any tiny scratches
in these molds will result in the resin surface being more cloudy
though
...latex or rubber mold compounds...RTV compounds..
silicone ---mold release not needed with these since they are very
flexible.. disadvantage to flexible molds though is that castings "come out
tacky and wavy because heat from the resin when curing dissipates quickly through
the rubber molds"
.....aren't silicone molds
(purchased ones, or those made from 2-part molding materials --see
Molds > 2-Part
Silicone Putties) better than other rubbery ones though??
STIFF
molds
...glass & metal ... mold release necessary
......
purchase P.V.A. (PolyVinylAcetate) mold release
.......or wipe
inside with Pam cooking spray ....or apply solution of 1 pt liquid-soap
to 4 pts water (let dry before using)
...plaster, Cement, wood, and
any porous molds .... lightly seal with paste wax (amount of catalyst
should also be reduced due to heat buildup)
waxes (carnauba, beeswax?, Pledge)
(see more below)
Use
same colorants for polyester resins as for epoxy resins?
--see all info below under Epoxy in > Coloring, Inclusions
...in
other words, purchased dyes --transparent or opaque-- or artists' oil
paints --transparent, or add White for opaque, etc.?)
When using pigments & dyes, remember that the curing process will be slowed down, so add extra catalyst.
Michaels
has the dyes (and perhaps art supply store, or even hobby stores) ....or online:
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/castresn/castresn.htm
(2/3 way down page)
http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/CastingMaterials/POLYESTER/polyester.htm
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=50&
April's
miniature soups and stews with colored resins (probably polyester)
surrounding bits of polymer clay food, poured into 1 1/2" wide glass
bowls
...resin is colored with oils, pigment powders, inks, et depending on
what final look desired
http://aprilsjunk.com/?p=97
see
also Epoxy Resins below for many other use ideas
more
INFO ...and INSTRUCTIONS
...entire (short) book (17 pgs) online,
by Casey Carlton, re using one brand of polyester resin:
http://www.eti-usa.com/books/castinbk/page1.htm
(keep clicking on Next Page,
or click particular page number in top navigation
bar)
whole beads
made with polyester resin and molds .... some have
inclusions like glitter, feathers, etc.,
(some of her other beads
are made from rods and other shapes of purchased acrylic, which
she sometimes grinds after curing to add embellishments or change shapes)
http://www.clinea.com/products.htm
see Epoxy Resins below for most use ideas
(brands)
polyester resins are available at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, art supply stores... and online (...but no longer at Dick Blick)
Clear
Polyester Casting Resin, with Catalyst (by Castin' Craft,
ETI, Environmental Technology,Inc.)...most widely available
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/castresn/castinst.htm
http://www.eti-usa.com/chainstr/castretl.htm
.....MSDS http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/CASTINGR.htm
http://www.creative-wholesale.com/casting%20resin.html
...also carry small-shapes molds... colorants (transparents &
opaques)
......other accessories & instructions
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~~parentID~2972~categoryID~2970.htm
Lam-A-Cast
Crystal Clear Casting Resin, with catalyst (same
brand?)
......"for paper weights, figurines, and embedments"
http://www.delviesplastics.com/casting_resin.htm
Clear-Lite
Casting Resin (at Tap Plastics)
http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Clearlite%20Casting%20Tip.pdf
Aristocrat's
Casting Resin (not Aristocrat's Liquid Glass, which is an epoxy
resin)
http://www.delviesplastics.com/casting_resin.htm
Polytranspar
Artificial Water (this brand may be more commonly
used in the diorama community than the art/craft community)
..."is the
most trusted (and best selling) clear casting resin on the market. Tens of thousands
of taxidermy habitat scenes have been created with this versatile product.
....And now, an improved formulation allows even greater clarity
on deep pours.
...You can create beautiful
water surfaces, splash scenes, and ice effects with this crystal clear product.
Simply add catalyst, stir and pour. Dries to a smooth, non-tacky
finish.
...Can be poured over plexiglass, cast in molds,
manipulated during the gelling stage to create ripples, assembled into
intricate splashes, painted over assembled pieces, and more.
Each kit includes
resin and clear MEK catalyst.
Although the shelf life
for this product should be at least six months, the
shelf life will be greatly reduced if it is stored near a heat source,
or if the container is left open and/or exposed to high humidity.
(Shipping
over one gallon requires UPS hazardous materials surcharge. Cannot be shipped
by air.)"
Easy Cast (by Castin' Craft) ... other brands?
...this is an epoxy resin, not a polyester resin like those above, but it's also not a "regular" epoxy resin like the ones listed below under Epoxies
...it appears to be a special kind of epoxy resin which has been tweaked so it can be reliably cast in deeper molds and more than than 1/8" at a time (regular epoxy resins may or may have problems such as becoming a bit yellowish if cast deeper than 1/2"--1/8" at a time)
...disadvantages to Easy Cast ...after curing Easy Cast will be somewhat flexible if exposed to even low heat (as in wearing it next to the body), especially if the cast item is not thick, and it will have a softer surface (normally, or only when heated and thin?)
(this version of epoxy resin could be a bit similar to the softer-setting epoxies below like the floral setting resins used in clear vases to simulate water since those can be poured quite deeply and stay very clear, but are rubbery and have a soft somewhat sticky surface that attracts dust)
````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
UNKNOWNS
or OTHER
..."new Vinyl Ester resins" ("vinylester") are hybrids....modified epoxies ... becoming more popular all the time as an alternative to epoxies ... catalyzed with MEKP like polyesters... short shelf life though! (3 mo?)
...Quick
Water (for simulating water)
...like the
"soft" epoxy resins below,
in many ways? (doesn't
set up "hard")
......but this
product is a urethane chemistry, NOT an acrylic
......cures in 8-10 hs. ("will
not yellow like it's acrylic competitors")
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy
...basic
raw epoxy can be added to during manufacture in many ways,
using:
......mineral fillers (talc, silica, etc) ...flexibilizers, thickeners,
viscosity reducers, colorants, adhesion promoters, accelerators, etc.
Epoxy
resins come in 2 parts, and are mixed one to one, in ratios by exact
weight or volume
...(some other epoxy resins may have other set proportions
tho')
(summary)
DISADVANTAGES
(compared to polyester resins):
...somewhat
more expensive than
polyester ... (but not very expensive
for our small uses)
....will take longer to create...
and longer to cure if deeper
than 1/8"
....the hard version of epoxy resin can be
cast
only to a total of
1/2" thickness or it will yellow
(look amber)...
max. of 1/8" at
a time
....the soft version can be cast as deep
as wanted, but has a rubbery surface after curing...
and the in-between version (Easy Cast) will be rubberier but okay except when
thin and heated even to body temp and then can become flexible)
....keep off
of skin... more likely to cause an eventual sensitization
than other resins, after repeated use (if use gloves, select latex or nitrile
gloves, not food handling gloves)
....not as stable in UV
light as polyesters
ADVANTAGES (many):
...safer to use
...easier
to use (less temperature sensitive, no proper # of drops to worry about, compatible
with more materials, etc.)
...least objectionable odor of nearly all
resins
...no problems with its suface having orange-peel appearance,
or being tacky--unless not mixed well, esp. when final surface is the showing
surface
...less heat produced in the curing so better for many materials,
possibly including polymer clays
...(hard version of epoxy) stronger in that
it's less brittle & more flexible ...also more waterproof
TYPES:...
there seem to be 2 main types of epoxy resin we might use:
....both can be
brushed on as finishes... or poured on as thick
finishes... or cast in molds
....but the 2 types have different
finished surfaces, and need to be treated somewhat
differently:
......hard ....Liquid Glass, Ultra-Glo,
Envirotex Lite, etc ...these cure with a hard surface
..........can be
cast
only to a total of 1/2" thickness
(or will look amber)...(1/8"
at a time)
......softer ... Acrylic Water, Liquid
Illusion, etc. (aka floral setting resin, fake water) ...these cure with a
softer, more rubbery surface
.........can be poured
to any depth permanently into vessels
Hard epoxy
resins are most often used (by anyone) for pouring on, yielding a thick,
clear coating.
Soft epoxy resins are generally used for simulating
water (in clear containers in which silk flowers can be arranged).
....but
both can be used in other ways
However... for castings
which are both deep and hard, must? use polyester
resins (see above)
....(or perhaps, hard epoxy resins can be cast deep, in
many layers, but will just be amber --or could color it???)
"HARD"
Epoxy Resins (clear, 2 pt.)
(Aristocrat Liquid Glass...Envirotex
Lite... Ultra Glo... etc.)
These
cure extremely hard, and very very
clear (great look and feel)
...out-performs
most polyester resins in many ways
.......high strength... low shrinkage...
low brittleness
.......wider temperature
tolerance than polyester (when mixing-curing?)
...formulated to achieve
a wide variety of properties ..come both opaque and clear
...basic stickiness
before curing makes it good for adhesives and repair applications
...is compatible with most other resins (including polyester
resin, so it can be applied over polyester --but not the reverse... thoroughly
sand the polyester layer if you want to epoxy over it)
...can
use on almost any surface, rough or smooth (see Uses below for
various materials that can be covered)
....doesn't
get as hot when curing as polyesters (heat may not even be noticeable
when using small amts)
........therefore does not cause problems with
baked polymer clay (polyester resins may cause discoloration
or marks)
........though some plastic items
may "dissolve" even in epoxy (plastic rhinestones?),
so test first
....waterproof...
heat resistant (up to about 120° F?).... alcohol-resistant
(after curing)
......temporary depressions
can appear in the cured surface after an item has been sitting on
it for awhile (humidity & heat may esp. allow this to happen ...will
disappear shortly)
....can
clean smudges or help prevent them by occasionally applying
furniture polish (e.g., Johnson's Lemon Pledge furniture polish
--the one with carnauba wax, not oil) or other carnauba polishes
..........more
on carnauba wax --interesting stuff http://www.zymol.com/carnauba.htm
.....for
scratches that can't be polished out.... clean with acetone, then
re-coat with resin
Part A is the resin side, and the Part B is the hardener. Part A varies in viscosity... can be very low viscosity (or it can be so highly viscous that they must be melted before use)
...need
only to have reasonable ventilation
...wipe off skin if it contacts
resin (safer than polyester resins tho')
...some people may become allergic
to
...susceptible
to yellowing from UV
exposure over
time (direct
sun, or fluorescents)
...polyesters are better for that
........do
not bake epoxy resin unless you want a yellow
tinge to it
........yellowing
may create a desired "antique" effect though
....recommended for
indoor use, because severe heat-cold
cycles may cause it to crack or delaminate
....epoxies
will require a mold release
with more
mold materials than polyesters
because of their strong adhesive qualities
Cannot
be poured deeper than 1/8" at
a time
....can create up to 1/2"
thickness total (in 4 layers) ...or 6 total
ounces??? because 1/8" thickness will result in
more volume if a mold is wider??
........
(over
1/2" of total resin
thickness will look amber...
otherwise "clear"... if colored tho', could create more thickness??)
....must
wait 8 hrs between
layers
....gets full strength and toughness in about 48 hrs
coverage....
a 6 oz kit will cover 2 1/4 sq.
ft. --when poured-on as a thick coating
....a 16 oz kit will
cover 4 1/2 sq. ft
WAYS
TO APPLY
1. in regular use, these give a thick clear coating
when poured onto a surface (or dipped), then allowed to drip
off
2. they can also be used as a thin finish
when simply brushed on a surface
....(1. or 2.) a translucent effect
can be created by using the resin on a porous surface like paper, without
sealing it first
3. they can also be poured into molds (maximum
of 1/2" deep or will look amber, in 1/'8 layers--or no more than 6 oz at
one time as with EasyCast?), then
removed
.....can also be poured into permanent
cells (of modeling clay, or other things with lips/dams to keep liquid contained)
.....can
be poured as faux ponds in miniature scenes , etc
4. can partially
embed objects into its final surface (for thicker applications, #1 and
#3).
(see more details below in Coatings and in Castings)
(some)
MATERIALS & ITEMS which can covered over with epoxy resin:
....glass,
tile, metal, rocks, plaster, Styrofoam
....wood, paper, photographs, fabric,
newspaper clippings (these are porous & may need to be sealed first,
and inks may need to be sealed to prevent bleeding)
....transfers, bar tops,
decorative trays, table surfaces, wall plaques, figurines, seashells, dried
pinecones
Tap
Plastic's video lesson on using Ultra Glo to coat a porous item
onto a sheet of wood (they use Ultra Seal to seal the porous paper and wood, but
can just use a permanent white glue)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXK98Qohjjw
video lesson on using Glaze Coat epoxy resin to cover a larger
area in two coats, but very clear instructions and many would apply equally
to small projects
.....(this lesson shows the covering of a 3x4 ft tabletop,
with checkers board and cardstock items glued down first)
http://eclecticproducts.com/GlazeCoat.htm
http://eclecticproducts.com/GlazeCoatDirections.htm
(more tips and info)
many
other video lessons on using epoxy and polyester resins at YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=resin+jewelry
This
instruction sheet for Ultra-Glo (from
TAP Plastics) probably covers instructions
for the other brands as well.
http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/UltraGlo%20Instructions.pdf
...instruction
sheet & uses for Envirotex Lite http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/Envirotex_tech.htm
see more technical info on how epoxies cure, heat released, etc., below in "More Technical Info"
Cured
resins can be sanded and
buffed (& drilled) pretty much the same way we do polymer clay
(wet sand, and buff with something soft like a muslin
wheel on an electric buffer or Dremel, etc.) .....becomes really shiny
........ it is much
harder than polymer clay
though... so for sanding, you can also use a Dremel or
similar coarser grit for starters, then use the finer grit sandpapers
etc. Sue H
........a
circular sanding attachment on an ordinary hand drill
will work... hand sanding is pretty difficult
........sanding
allows you to also get rid of the sharp edges that often result
from the resin having been cast in molds
(see more on sanding-polishing
above in Polyester Resins... work the same?)
found in hobby, craft, plastic, paint stores (Home Depot & Lowes no longer carry it)
SOURCES
Michael's
and
probably other craft stores carry
at least one brand of epoxy resin
.... check the glue aisle
(at Michaels, it's usually on the bottom shelf at
Michaels & is a blue and black box). Dotty
art
supply stores
hobby stores
plastics
stores (stores which cut a new piece of plastic for the cover over a recessed
bathroom fluorescent fixture, etc.--look under Plastics in the yellow pages)
hardware
stores
online
at craft, hobby or plastics store
Aristocrat
Liquid Glass (by Aristocrat,
by BD Classic) ......(also
called Aristocrat Epoxy Wood Finish .... not Aristocrat's "Casting
Resin" )
....can be found in
craft stores, near the stained glass supplies
...cures
extremely hard, and very very clear
...mix
equal parts (one to one) ...then pour-on (or brush on)
...comes in
8, 16, and 32 oz.kits...
....the
most glassy, wet shine I've gotten as a finish is by using Liquid Glass...
I bush on several thin coats. Dotty in CA.
NOTE:
there are several different products named "Liquid Glass"
that you might see around which are not epoxy resins and not regular
epoxy resins, so be careful to get the right one)
(all of the following brands seem to be made by Environmental Technology,Inc (ETI), or made by them for various other companies?)
Envirotex
Lite Pour On High Gloss Finish ....(sometimes referred to as just
"Envirotex") ... by ETI... low or no odor
...online
(Dick Blick): http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/18
...instruction sheet for Envirotex Lite http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/Envirotex_tech.htm
MSDS
http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/Envirotex%20Lite%20Resin.htm
... Envirotex
was the original version, and it does have an odor... Envirotex Lite doesn't
Ultra-Glo
...I
bought mine at a plastics store.... should also be available at places
like Ace/True Value and Michaels ...by ETI
......online:..:
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~2999~parentID~2972~categoryID~2
967.htm
... two bottles (which are
mixed in equal parts) contain 8 oz ...will cover approx. 2 .1/2
sq. ft if poured on
...instruction
sheet for Ultra-Glo http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/UltraGlo%20Instructions.pdf
MSDS
http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/Ultra-Glo%20Resin.htm
Crystal Sheen ...by ETI
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~2999~parentID~2972~categoryID~2969.htm
MSDS
http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/Crystal%20Sheen%20Resin.htm
EasyCast (also called EasyCast Clear "Casting" Epoxy... by Castin' Craft, ETI)
...an "epoxy" resin, but has been tweaked to be a bit different from regular epoxy resins:
advantages (compared to regular epoxy resins): can be cast in deeper molds (and up to 6 oz at one time) than regular epoxy resins into cells and even molds, and remain clear....little or no odor
disadvantages: will be somewhat flexible after curing (especially the thinner it is), and will also have a softer surface than regular epoxies
.... these characteristics will show up more and more as the cured item is exposed to warmth (from the air, or even from just being worn next top the body, etc.)
(it could be similar to the softer-setting epoxies below like the floral setting resins used in clear vases to simulate water since those can be poured quite deeply and stay very clear, but are also rubbery and have a soft somewhat sticky surface that attracts dust?... so mid-way between a regular epoxy and a soft-setting epoxy?)
instruction sheet: http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/easycast/easycast.html
MSDS http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/MSDS%20PDF/EasyCast/Easy%20Cast%20Resin.pdf
at hardware store + using on larger surfaces
Glaze Coat (Famowood, by Eclectic, makers
of E6000, etc.) ...also called "bar top" resin
...sold in
quarts, half-gallons, and gallons, as
well as pints (usually cheaper by volume than buying at craft stores,
etc)
...pour-on high gloss epoxy coating ("high build")..."equiv.
to 60 coats of urethane"
http://eclecticproducts.com/GlazeCoat.htm
http://eclecticproducts.com/GlazeCoatDirections.htm
....
I bought it in the adhesives section at Home Depot ... 1 qt. for
$13 (that's about $4 cheaper than Envirotex at my crafts store). smprncs
...some
hardware stores have it by the pint
...Lowes...also try Ace Hardware,
TargetWalmart/Walgreens?
...or order online
LARGER
SURFACES:
...video
lesson on covering a larger area (in two layers, here) --a 3
x 4 ft tabletop, with checkers board and cardstock items glued down first,
then embedded
http://eclecticproducts.com/GlazeCoat.htm
(...click on video, or wait)
...lesson
on using Glaze Coat to embed color photocopies of photographs in a wooden
tray (on top of cut-out image from wrapping paper?)
http://eclecticproducts.wordpress.com/2008/05/10/clever-projects-for-mothers-day-beyond
...small
bartop of mosaic, covered with Glaze Coat (using sisal rope as permanent
"cell walls")
http://flickr.com/photos/joelitton/334302922
...large
table top ...bare wood sealed with Varathane, covered with epoxy resin --over
various separate tiles and individual elements-- at Sarajane's site
http://polyclay.com/epoxyresin.htm
(especially bottom of page)
...more uses
for bar top resins, and brands
http://www.google.com/images?q=bar+top+resin
TRAYS,
etc. ....can create your own larger tray (resin "cast" in
a permanent "container")
...if use bare wood, create
dam around perimeter with 1/2" half-round wood molding strips, etc
...seal
all wood (see above), making sure to get gaps around
joins ...and apply masking tape under edge to prevent resin sticking there
...pour
resin ...wipe drips... cure
...can decoupage something on wood before
resin (seal)... or even cover tiles
...Cindy's
photo her tray made with Envirotex Lite http://community.webshots.com/album/31233907NwmWHqLFrJ
TIPS:
...seal all bare wood (see above), making sure
to get gaps around joins ...and apply masking tape
under edge to prevent resin sticking there
...pour resin ...wipe drips... cure
...can
decoupage various things on wood before resin (seal)... or even cover
mosaic tiles
...Cindy's photo her tray
made with Envirotex Lite http://community.webshots.com/album/31233907NwmWHqLFrJ
...can
also create a dam around perimeter of a flat wood surface with 1/2"
half-round wood molding strips, or other things, to create a flat tray
2-part epoxy glue
Devcon's
30-minute set 2-pt epoxy glue ("2-Ton") can
be used instead of the larger containers of epoxy resin, according to Nancy Banks,
since it's the same thing in smaller quantity, though thicker and will harden
more quickly... also won't sink in the middle while curing as much as regular
epoxy resins because of its thickness
...she feels that brand/line of 2-part
epoxy glue is the clearest
(some are yellowish, brownish,cloudy, etc)
...squeeze out equal amount of both
barrels... mix the two parts together with a toothpick, etc.... scoop up bits
of mixed glue with toothpick or popscicle stick, and drip off onto surface to
be covered...about 7 min actual working time before begins to gel too much
(for
3-D items, could brush on as coating with brush, and would level out?)
Devcon's 5 minute epoxy glue is also used by some, but working life is much shorter (can put excess in freezer to extend time a bit), and it's possible that air bubbles can be extruded which are hard to see/pop
preparation
+ sealing + mixing
(It's
probably best to do a test piece first if
you haven't done resin before, just to see how all this works)
Seal
some materials when necessary, before the main resin steps:
...Seal
all materials which are porous (e.g., paper,
bare wood, fabric) or they'll become translucent & darken,
and/or or vent air bubbles in resin & perhaps
be uneven or create “blotching.)
...Seal materials
which are non-permanent (they may bleed).
Sealing
can be done in various ways (see more lessons & ideas
in various other places on this page having to do with sealing or with embedding
paper images, etc.):
bare wood, fabric, etc: saturate (brush
on) material with decoupage medium, thinned permanent white glue, special sealer
like or polyurethane, etc.
paper images, etc:
...(can
cut out image to size at first, or later)
...print out image (good on photo
paper) with ink jet printer ....or use a photocopier or laser printer, with toner...
magazine images seem to need sealing too
.......Sherri uses paper image in
one lesson but attaches it to white cardstock with gluestick
...cut out image
...using
a decoupage medium like ModPodge, etc, (or Ultra Seal, or just a
diluted permanent white glue like Elmers GlueAll 4:1
with water) or paint on a coat of of
acrylic paint (sponge on or paint)
....... brush a coat of glue
onto back side of cutout, preferably with flat brush... let dry completely
for 4 hrs.after
application or it will always be visible
...then
brush onto front of cutout...let dry
...be sure to also
coat the porous side edges of the image
because the resin can soak into the paper from those areas as well, either by
applying more glue/etc to those areas, or by laying the cutout on waxed paper
and using glue on the front/back side around the outside of the image as
well as on it which will result in a peel-up "decal" after drying (can
trim some excess if desired, but leave enough to seal edges thoroughly)
...
if desired, can then dip finished cutout into resin (and let cure 4-5 hrs) before
using in resin in the normal way
... or some images will be okay if just
dipped into resin instead of glue or other sealer from the beginning
..........
can apply a thin coat
of completely mixed resin-hardener as sealer (wait 4-12 hrs.) for
greatest contrast (4 if sand?)
...Two Crafty Mules
suggests using glossy acrylic gel medium (Golden or Liquitex), instead
of white glue (tho hadn't used thinned white glue), which also creates
a thinner dried decal area around image ...someone else likes matte decoupage
medium
...John Golden coats many images on one sheet of paper
at one time before cutting each out (be sure and seal edges after cutting
out)... he first prints images onto photo paper
....delicate
items such as dried flowers can be sealed with 2 coats of a fast-drying spray
(such as Envirotex Spray Sealer)
HOWEVER,
a nice very-translucent effect can be created intentionally by using
the resin over a thin porous "translucent" surface like
paper, without sealing it first
......the back side of
any paper (e.g. writing on it) will also become visible
though!
--If don't seal an opaque surface, its color will become much
darker.
--May also need to seal some
dyed or painted objects
...test for color fastness since color may bleed
into the casting
lesson & lots of neat collages
and paper-images-only in bottle caps and other cells, with
Envirotex Lite
http://www.art-e-zine.co.uk/resin.html
...see more on using paper
images with resin in various places on this page, especially in the "Casting"
subcategories
NOTE:
"Regular"
epoxy resins cannot generally be poured deeper than
1/8" at
a time ...sometimes it works okay though
but still not well for really deep castings
....(the line called Easy
Cast has been tweaked a little so it will work for deeper castings,
but has disadvantages too such as becoming rubbery and flexible if exposed to
body heat)
....regular epoxy can create up to 1/2" thickness total,
in 4 layers though, without becoming amber
.... wait
8 hrs between layers
... full strength and toughness in about 48 hrs
Clean
surface before applying resin
...surfaces must be free of oil
or wax & dust
to allow resin to stick well --wipe
with alcohol, acetone, etc, then dry
...must be dry (nothing damp)
Work
in reasonably well-ventilated area (not as important as for polyester resins
though)
...do not mix or
pour in direct sunlight
...best
results, coat at temperatures between 68° and 80°
...best hardness,
pour and cure at humidity below 50%
...mix up only
the amount you'll use in 20 minutes or less (...for larger
areas, best to have a helper to make new batches)
Protect
work surface
...protect
table with waxed paper which resin won't stick to, or newspaper,
alum. foil, plastic sheeting, etc.) since resin will stick
to anything it touches
......also
protect any areas where unwanted drips might occur on the object
wiith masking tape, modeling clay, etc, which resin won't stick
to
Use
disposable materials, or remove after curing:
...cups
(plastic, glass, wood --no waxed
paper cups since can make resin cloudy)...
stirrer sticks (popsicle sticks, wood tongue depressors, etc) ...brushes
(foam, etc.)
......the best part about plastic
cups is that they are reusable without a big cleanup hassle.
Just leave your mess of resin in the cup, let it cure, then peel the whole thing
out. (I like to leave the wood popscicle stir sticks in my mixing cups and use
them as a sort of handle to pull the old resin out after it has dried.) ....Let
everything cure overnight... much easier to clean up.SkinnerStudio
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__-YapsQxyXI/SY0PErFwnmI/AAAAAAAAARQ/lpyaS114OjY/s320/IMG_7906.JPG
...cleaning
plastic squeeze bottles for resin (use same ones every time).... you CAN
reuse them, you just have to be careful about how the left over resin sets up
in them, so when you're done, unscrew the top and place the bottle upside down
on something (such as whatever you mixed your resin in) so the leftover resin
can drain out. Once it hardens you can pull out the stuff that coated the sides
the same way you would from the molds (it usually just leaves a thin film on the
inside). If you squeeze the bottle it helps to separate it from the sides
of the bottle, and I just use a pair of tweezers to grab it and pull it
out). ...d o the same with the top of the bottle, and you should be good to go!
ambersteele
Temperature
of resin... make sure resin isn't too cool (can create extra bubbles
and later cloudiness)
...if necessary, warm by
putting bottles into container of warm/hot water for few minutes... should feel
just warm to the touch
video lesson on mixing Ultra Glo (it's used here to put a porous
item onto a sheet of wood --like a bar top coating; they use Ultra Seal to seal
the porous paper and wood, but can just use a permanent white glue, etc.),
by Tap Plastics
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXK98Qohjjw
...more
good lessons just above under Brands > Hardware Stores + Larger
Surfaces
...and/or see links to "instruction
sheets" above
mix (well!)
......(keep capped tightly when not in use)
NOTE:...If
every bit of the 2 parts are NOT mixed together thoroughly,
the resin will not thoroughly cure (can't
chemically react)...
it may remain sticky or have little areas of stickiness
........can
correct with another pour of epoxy resin:..
scrape out any obviously stick spots; scrub
surface with a clean cloth and alcohol or acetone before recoating; mix
new batch of resin; pour over old surface and allow to cure
.....or just start over with new resin and mix well
...pour part A of the resin in one cup and Part
B in another cup (equal amounts)... can mark cups, but don't use water
to measure unless dry!
...then pour both resins into another cup/etc.
to actually do the mixing (if one container is simply poured into the other, there
will inevitably be more resin from the second cup in the mix than resin from the
first cup...or mix well on a flat surface if not using much
......or
could use a drinking straw (for measuring) to remove the same
amount from bottle A and bottle B (...by placing straw in bottle, then covering
top of straw with finger and removing (...will work esp. if not much
resin needed, and as long as bottles still have same
amount of resin in them). GardensOfImagination's
video lesson
...mix very thoroughly for 1-2 min (for clearest
result, and for small amounts), continually scraping the sides, the bottom
and the inside corners of container... try not to incorporate too many air bubbles
by "whipping" the resin upward instead
of "stirring"
...some people recommend pouring even that mix
into a new cup before using (then mixing 30 sec. more),
so any unmixed liquid in bottom will stay in first cup
Pouring
the resin from the cup (into another container or a squeeze bottle) slowly
seems to reduce some of the bubbles too (also some
pour of it down the sides of the receiving container so less of it touches air,
and slows the pour).hello color!
To
use resin on a freestanding item, elevate the item on cups,
or piles of pennies, etc. to allow excess resin to drip off, and to easily
reach edges where drips occur (need link to pic here)
....level
the surface to be covered (especially if it's large) to make sure the resin
will end up being an equal thickness over the whole surface ...can
set a carpenter's level on top to check if level, and add risers underneath
corners of object if it's not
To use in a cell or shallow mold,
pour slowly into... pour from side if any items might trap air.
Will self level.
Working
time will be approx. 20 min
...after 2 mins.,
mixed liquid will begin to heat up... this is normal
(can
add embedments in resin or on top of resin if want, but wait until
sufficient gelling or hardness is achieved --could be up to a few hrs)
LEFTOVER
resin + caps/implements/containers
....do not
pour any resins into sinks
(will clog drain)
...do
not pour mixed resin back in the can
...do
not allow any implement which has touched one part of the resin to touch
the resin or the other part ...that will cause the resin
to begin to cure right in the original container
(see Applying, Curing, Coating, Casting, etc, below for much more)
coloring ...+ inclusions + fauxs
Clear
epoxy resins can be colored with artists' oil paints (in tubes)
--must use "resinous" colorants with resins
...........Raggedy
D. says can also tint with colored glass "stains" (not
glass "paints"??
.....if you want opaque or translucent
resin, add some Titanium White oil paint , along with other colors if desired,
to opaque the resin (or perhaps add other inclusions as below)
...lesson
on tinting with acrylic paint "or other paint"??
...(can use acrylics as long as don't use too
much???)
....can also use oil pastel shavings?, and
various other things
special
colorants are sold for use with resins too ...they
come in transparent and opaque versions
...doesn't take much
colorant....always add the color first, which will
give more time to obtain desired shade (will look darker when resin deeper)
...then
add the catalyst (but remember not to add catalyst to more resin than will
be used within 10 - 20 min)... this only for polyester resins?
(see
below in "Cold Enamels" for already-colored 2-pt resins
to purchase)
When casting
layers, colorants may be added to all layers (could be different
colors) or just some layers
....or only to the the bottommost
layer in a finished casting (good at hiding the bad surface quality
of polyester resins)
...if doing more than one layer and the layers
will be different colors, you'll need to pour the different-color layer
after the resin has gelled (mintues to an hour?) but before it begins
to pull away from the walls of a mold or cell since the second color will
also run down the sides of the resin, coloring it too --could
sand off later though ....(when adding new layers of uncolored resin
though, not a problem, I assume)
....for
simulating miniature outdoor ponds or lakes, my husband mixes the casting
resin in layers
.........he colors the bottom layer
a "muddy" color... the next layer less muddy.... and the top layer
clear... this gives a very realistic look . Dona (see
more below in Faux Water)
If they are colored, epoxy resins can be cast deeper than the normal 1/2" total depth (because that will hide the amber cast that occurs with more thickness)
"marbling"..
one or more colored resins can be marbled on any? surface
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_clay/article/0,2025,DIY_13750_2269202,00.html
...to create a
tinted resin, mix 2 drops paint into small amount of epoxy resin in cup ... mix
very well
.........drizzle or drip tinted resin onto surface,
and to edges with card (she uses a painted cardboard shape)... swirl color
with a toothpick
........ mix up another color if desired, drizzle
on, and repeat
........(can also use untinted resin with a bit of metallic
embossing powder added to drizzle and swirl too)
........ harden overnight
...can add final layer of clear epoxy resin, if want... harden again
(..."
looks grand, especially over black cardstock embossed with
metallic powder")
(also
shows a "squish" technique)
powders
...powdered
pigments
... metallic mica
powders (Pearl Ex, e.g.) or metal-based powders (Mona Lisa or Fimo's)
...embossing
powders ...also chalk powders, etc?
...tempera
powders
inclusions
(more-particulate materials) ... fine or tiny inclusions
can also be used to color the resin, or to change its appearance throughout, or
in just one layer (as long as the inclusions contain no water
or residual moisture, and won't be
damaged by the heat of the resin curing)
...e.g.,
glitters (esp. those for clothing or rubberstamping), spices, herbs
(well dried) , sand, flakes of metallic leaf, tiny sequins, etc. (see Inclusions
for more ideas)
various inclusions
in molded epoxy resin shapes, by Skinner Studio
http://skinnerstudio.blogspot.com/2009/02/how-to-make-resin-jewelry-part-two.html
faux
marble ...add 3 or more contrasting colors of opaque pigment...
e.g:
...white marble (white, bit of black), pink marble (pink=red+white,
gray=white+black)
...green marble ( green, white,bit of black), brown
marble (brown, white, bit of black)
(when mixing more than one color into
resin which will be "marbled together" but still remain somewhat
distinct, mix resin parts together in separate containers, then add colorant
to each container separately... to marble the colors together, pour them all into
one container, then swirl a couple of times before pouring (too much mixing will
result in blended colors rather than "marbled"
)
faux granite
...could
mix several colors of sand and/or colored play sand, etc., into
resin for a matrix effect (black, gray white, translucent)
...or Castin'Craft
makes Granite Powders (in different colors?) one to one with resin...
these appear white but change color when added to resin... stir slowly to avoid
getting powder in air... after pouring, may need to get rid of air bubbles
faux
glass ...use transparent dyes (or oil paints?)
faux
metal... use real-metal powders or mica-based powders (see
just above for examples)
... about 1/4 teaspoon for 8 oz of mixed resin (or
more or less, depending on effect desired)
USE immediately
...pour on, brush on, dip, or cast
the entire amount
you've mixed
........(see details below in Coating
and in Casting)
...if pouring, begin with perimeter
of surface and spiral inward
.....then spread more if nec. with
a foam or glue brush, or an index card (don't spread too thin or
surface may be wavy)
(for porous objects... seal as above, or
with 2 coats of a fast drying acrylic spray, then apply resin thinly in one or
two coats)
BUBBLES...
bubbles are normal... they will show up within 10 min. after pouring
...most
will break by themselves as the resin heats up during the curing
stage
.....(with some of my fountains, I actually stirred the
mixture up to create bubbles for the look of the water moving & it
was hard to keep the bubbles)
..or carbon dioxide from various
sources will help pop the bubbles (it's not the heat, but the CO2)
....."gently"
exahale on (don't blow) the bubbles to pop them (do not breathe
in though)
.........Kathy suggestst exhaling
through a straw to narrow and focus the breath
......(can
use an embossing gun at a distance but this may scatter
dust onto the resin's surface...hair dryer would be worse for dust because
more movement of air)
..larger bubbles can be pricked with toothpick,
etc.
..for larger areas of resin or stubborn bubbles, can keep
a lighted match (or small propane torch, 3-6" away)
moving above
surface (the flame consumes oxygen and will pull bubbles right out of resin)
Some
powders may cause excess bubbles
(because of that's trapped air in between the tiny
bits?)
....I
have mixed Pearl-Ex interference powders into the clear (epoxy resin) with
very nice results. Be careful of bubbles (because
tiny bits of air can be introduced in and around the particles).
Jami Miller
...also make sure any
fine or tiny inclusions contain no water or residual moisture
(could cause bubbling? or cloudines?)
Also,
very porous
items must be sealed before contact
with resin to prevent venting of air bubbles in resin,
possible “blotching” in the finished product, and
also to prevent the items from becoming translucent
(though this can be done intentionally if a translucent efffect is desired).
And
non-permanent inks, dyes
and paints must also be sealed to prevent bleeding
(like inkjet prints on regular paper...photocopies, inkjet printed onto photopaper,
magazine pages, etc. are already permanent):
.......to
seal, apply a thin
coat of completely pre-mixed resin-hardener as sealer (wait 4-12
hrs.) for greatest contrast (4 if sand?)
.......or
buy special sealer (like
Ultra Seal) ...which proably is just diluted white glue
.......or
just use permanent white glue like Elmer's Glue All (4:1 with water),
or ModPodge, etc.....wait 4 hrs.after application;
let dry glue completely
.......2
light coats of a fast-drying acrylic spray can also
be used, especially for delicate items such as dried flowers
and inks which may bleed easily (such as Envirotex Spray Sealer)... that should
be sufficient, but could then also add a coat of thinned white glue or resin as
above
DRIPS:
...
it drips a little (but also has a high surface tension
so it cures to a raised but rounded, smooth-edged surface)
...protect
any areas on the item you don't want resin to stick to with masking
tape, or with a heavy coat of paste wax or Vaseline (applied
to the back or anywhere you don't want resin... pull off any drips,
etc, after curing)
.....can
also soak off drips 30 min after application with glue brush while
resin still fluid ... repeat in
30 more minutes, if nec.
.....remove
masking tape in 12-24 hrs
.....or can sand off after curing 48-72
hrs. (circular sanding attachment on an ordinary hand drill
will work... hand sanding difficult)
(....if necessary, clean up anything that needs it with acetone while still wet)
for applying epoxy resins to larger areas such as trays and tabletops, see lessons and tips below under Brands > from the Hardware Store
Allow
item to cure in a warm, draft free and non-dusty room ....away
from children, pets, activity, fans, etc.
......protect
resin surface from dust
& pet hair during curing
by placing a cardboard box or clear plastic tub
over the item
.......I put my filled molds in shoeboxes and leave
them to cure outside until the resin is set (to avoid any fumes). author?
...leave
undisturbed for at least 24 hrs.
......gels
within an hour (or sooner)-- if want to add embedments into a layer
......sets
up in 3-5 hrs, depending on temp & humidity
......cures
to touch in 12 hrs (or sooner)
......soft
cure (hard to touch) in 24 hrs
... can pretty much use at this point
......full cure, hard cure
in in 48 hrs or even 72 hrs
...for example, at
80º
(ressin will have 4 hr set up, 60 hr full cure) ...or
at 70º
(5 hr, 72 hr)
For
a satin finish, "sand" with 0000 steel wool, then polish
with polishing compound.
cutting, drilling, shaping-sanding, polishing (after curing)
Can
cut thin pieces of resin after curing
...for example, can pour
resin on glass (or alum. foil)... thin with card if want (will self level)...
let set... peel off
....score guidelines ... then cut resin with
passes from craft knife (and steel edge ruler)
For
creating holes or loops in resin for hanging, or adding bails,
etc.:
....drill holes with ordinary drill bits to create holes
for hanging or other reasons
....embed jump rings, U-shaped wires,
or other wire before the resin is set
....glue on bails afterwards
........To
glue a bail onto a resin item...first wash the bail with soap & water...let dry.
Roughen up the area on the back of the piece only where the bail is to attach...(so
you don't have scuffs on the piece). Also wash the pendant. This gets rid of any
residue on either that would prevent it from sticking well. Use E6000 & press
firmly. Wipe away any glue that oozes out. If you have a small clamp...even a
clothespin (the kind that has the spring) will work fine to keep pressure on it.
Let it dry for several hours. To my knowledge, I've never had one come off. I
Sew Cute
....glue on baked polymer tubes or other shapes
.......(for
glues, can use 2 part epoxy glue --which is basically the
same substance as epoxy resin-- or E-6000, or others?)
You
can use a hand drill (it doesn't need to be a heavy duty drill!) I Sew
Cute
...and you won't need a diamond tip drill bit or anything special
Can
sand to smooth or to change shape if desired,
then polish (after
curing 48-72 hrs)
...(hand-sanding
can be difficult --but possible? as with polyesters using --though because epoxy
resins are quite hard)
...can sand with an
ordinary hand drill
(or rotary tool-Dremel) outfitted with a
sanding disc attachment
.....start with a coarse grit like 120,
then wet sand with finer grits
.....then buff-polish
with something
soft like a fluffy cotton wheel on an electric buffer or Dremel,
etc. (no polishing compound nec?)... the resin will become really shiny
from the buffing, but some say it won't get really get back up to the highest
gloss again (so may want to coat with epoxy resin)
.......frosty
areas left from sanding can also be covered with gloss polyurethane
or Future (even just on edges, with Q-tip), or be coated wtih another layer
of epoxy resin (or with epoxy glue?)
........if
you want to reduce the shine for some reason, sand any shiny cured resin
with 0000 steel wool
.....can also cut or plane
with a knife or plane before sanding or further sanding
.....if doing very
much sanding of even epoxy resins, you'll probably want to wear
a particle mask or be in a highly-ventilated area (just because
particles of anything that doesn't dissolve isn't great for lungs)... I assume
the same mask suggested for sanding polyester resins above would be good for epoxies
too -- P95 or P100 --from the hardware
store (store i n ziptop bag when not using to prolong absorbent life)
Later
smudges (and cloudiness) can be cleaned, or be somewhat
avoided, by occasionally applying
furniture polish (e.g., Johnson's Pledge
furniture polish can work --the one with carnauba wax--interesting stuff,
the "hardest" wax in nature and very shiny-- not the one with silicone? oil),
or with other carnauba wax polishes
(For scratches that can't
be polished out.... clean with acetone, then re-coat with
resin)
When using any resin in a cell or mold, it will shrink
a bit while curing (epoxies less than polyesters)
...this will mean that they
will sink a little in the middle and therefore "creep"
up the sides of the cell or mold (around edges), leaving an edge you might
want to remove
.....if using a removable mold, this lip can be sanded
off if desired (then buffed or coated with Future/polyurethane), or the lip will
just be on the back side of the piece so maybe not
a problem
...if using a permanent cell, try coating the sides of the
cell with acrylic medium (matte?) which should resist the resin's crawl
(and the back won't have a problem)
...for polyester resins
cast in molds, the side that cures next to the air may also have an orange-peel
surface or stay a bit sticky or
be cloudy... it can be sanded off if you want (then coated with
epoxy resin if desired)
(seal
any porous
surfaces first to avoid “blotching” later:
....use
a thin coat of mixed resin
....using a
white glue solution (4:1 with water) --buy buy special sealer
......wait
4 hrs.after application or paper will be translucent....
let dry glue completely... then use resin
....delicate items such as
dried flowers can be sealed with 2 coats of a fast drying acrylic spray
(like Envirotex Spray Sealer)
as
a THIN FINISH
...BRUSH
ON ...mix the two parts, then brush on with a
disposable brush (can use several thin coats, or just one)
..for
decoupage: use white glue to mount the items to be coated --seal if using
thin paper
..can coat interior of pots by pouring in, then spreading
up sides with foam brush (if terra cotta, place clear tape over hole from inside)
......wait
12 hrs. before removing tape, turning over/elevating, and applying to outside,
if desired
as a THICKER
FINISH ........3 options:... let drip... dip or pour-down ... dam
.....protect
surfaces (object & work surface) where you don't want resin ... mix
resin
(also see Kato liquid clay used this way in Liquid
Clay > Clear Finish)
...use
an inexpensive brush, and clean it immediately... I never got all
of the enamel out and had to toss mine. Jami
DRIP:
......elevate item ... pour over surface
of the item, beginning
with the perimeter, then spiraling inward (or Tap
Plastics says, in reverse)
.......if necessary, spread
any missed spots with disposable brush or card
(will self level) ... let drip
......wipe drips off under edges
with foam or glue brush after 30 min (repeat in another 30 min. if nec.)
...I used in on a whole clay pin, and I also did just the face part
of a pin. Kathy
..can coat freestanding
paper images too... glue onto non-contrasting color of card stock with
glue stick, then cut out... seal both sides with diluted glue or 2 coats of resin...
pour resin on top side... cover back with diluted white glue
.......after 12
hrs., can bend the image and hold in place with tape, etc... let cure entire time
& remove tape
....might
be pretty neat to pour over a sheet of baked cane slices (or whatever
pattern), then use as a coaster
...could do something similar
for keyrings, name tags, etc.
(could coat both sides or
only front side... if both, do front first)
..Sherri's lesson on putting
a thick layer of Envirotex Lite over dried flowers on baked polymer
clay (after adhering dried flowers onto baked clay with white glue... drying...then
sealing them with more glue ...applying resin in center, spreading to edges with
toothpick)
http://tinyurl.com/b8atw
...Tap
Plastic's video lesson on mixing Ultra Glo, and using it to coat a porous
item onto a sheet of wood (like a bar top coating) (they use Ultra Seal to seal
the porous paper and wood, but can just use a permanent white glue)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXK98Qohjjw
DIP,
or pour down VERTICAL surfaces,etc.
....I
use it for dipping my pens. . . .Lisette
....figurines, other
items.. can pour resin over item and let flow down around it... use
stiff brush or card to spread if necessary
....the people at
Envirotex and some old manual I had years ago suggested using a tongue depresser
to occasionally scrape the drips off the bottom of dipped items as they
cure.... (dip the piece, hang it with a wax-coated nail or cord (waxed dental
floss maybe?) (so the resin won't stick) over wax paper... then every once
in a while come back and run the stick over the bottom edge to get the drips --that
was the technique they used in the 80s for paper jewelry made with resin coatings.
bigeyes (see also Finishes > Varathane
> Dipping)
.... resin also makes
a beautiful interior finish for small polymer
vessels... just pour it in (and swirl around?)... (resin
is good for this too because often the interior part of vessels are impossible
to sand). Kathy
... can also
tint the resin before pouring over an object, e.g., in this lesson on making
a glazed orange blossom cake by Raggedy D. (see details in
Miniatures > Icings, etc.)
http://raggedyds.com/howto2.htm
lesson
on using Envirotex Lite as a thick coating over (salt dough) clay... hanging
to apply and dry
... put wire or hook in eye pin or other loop at top
of dried/cured ornament to have something to hold onto while applying resin
...
pour mixed resin over object while suspended over newspaper/etc, working into
all crevices with stiff disposable glue brush
... hang each ornament from wire
run through a box (halfway up box, and more than twice as tall as tallest ornaments)
...
once all ornaments done, separate* them (with clay on each hook,or in some way)
then slowly turn box bottom upside down so that bottom of box is now on
top and box can act as a shield from dust while ornaments drying
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/doughart.htm
as
a COATING + ADHESIVE .....(this type of resin
is an excellent adhesive ...better than polyester)
...Marie Browning's lesson
on using a resin layer used to hold fine sand onto "mossy" garden
stones with raised lettering
......sprinkle
with fine sand while paint is wet ...wait for paint to dry
......(elevate)....
cover with epoxy
resin ... let set 24 hrs (like thick, clear coating, but also adhesive)
http://www.craftsmag.com/projects/project.ihtml?content_id=284&cat_idx=5
...
see more in Outdoor
to
simulate melting jellies, ice creams, or spilled drinks, allow epoxy resin
to begin to gel before you pour it. This will produce a thicker
layer than if it is poured right after mixing... about.com
(or use liquid
clays, etc.... see Miniatures > Foods
> Icings, etc. for more re simulating softer or more gel-like things)
"CASTING"
in removable molds, or in permanent cells-depressions + gen info.
Casting
here refers to pouring the resin into a permanent or temporary "container"
(that's resin-safe), and letting it cure.
...if a temporary shaper ("mold")
is used, the hardened resin will be removed after curing (and the resin/item
will be freestanding)
.......if a permanent "container" and
shaper is used, the hardened resin will not be removed and will be left in
place as part of the finished work
...epoxy resins aren't used that
often in temporary molds (like polyester resins are), but they can be
--must create in layers no more than 1/8" at a time tho to be sure to avoid
all problems though (or use Easy Cast, which has disadvantages)
.......more
often epoxies are used to fill permanent "cells" or depressions in other
materials (including baked polymer clay) to create things like faux cloisonne,
faux ponds, very thick clear pools of "finish" walls of "framed"
transfers (clay dam as frame), or "aquarium" beads, etc.
--Epoxies
will not stick to polyethylene sheeting like disposable
paint tarps and sandwich bags .
--Epoxies will not stick to the
shiny side of packaging tape, or sticky side of duct tape
(can peel off carefully), or to paraffin wax & waxed paper,
and various other things.
(or to mold-release compounds that are sold
for use with epoxy)
Skinner
Studio's basic materials for mixing, casting (including molds,
colorants, inclusions) (shows Easy Cast) http://skinnerstudio.blogspot.com/2009/02/how-to-make-resin-jewelry-supplies.html
April's
miniature soups and stews with colored resins (probably polyester, but
could be epoxy especially if done in several layers) surrounding bits of polymer
clay food, poured into 1 1/2" wide glass bowls
...resin colored with
oils, pigment powders, inks, et depending on what final look desired
http://aprilsjunk.com/?p=97
video
lesson on making a pan or skillet using epoxy resin, in a 2-part silicone
mold (Amazing Mold Putty), by GardenOf Imagination
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmaG_jM9i_k&NR=1
video
lesson on making a clear(ish) "molded Jello" by GardenOfUtopia...
she used a floral setting resin instead of a regular
epoxy resin so after curing coated with acrylic finish to keep cover stickiness
on outside... also colored her resin with gel food color (rather than oil
paint)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80TMY1usH3M&feature=channel_page
NOTE: ..All resins
shrink a bit when curing (epoxies less than polyesters) so this will mean
that hard epoxies will sink a little in the middle, I think,
and therefore "creep" up the sides of the
cell or mold a bit (around edges)... though can apply a coat of matte acrylic
medium to sides of cells if possible which will resist the resin
....if
using a removable mold, this can be sanded off if desired,
or used as the back side... polish with ____ or apply a bit of Future or
Varathane to bring back most of glossiness
....if using cells and depressions,
will probably not be noticed or look "normal" for what
it's imitating
Epoxies that call themselves "casting" epoxies (like Easy Cast) may be a clearer when they in deeper molds than other epoxies (but also have disadvantages)..
in
Molds
for freestanding resin pieces
Molds
for resins can be purchased, found, or made:
The clearest
castings are created with purchased molds made from HDPE
(High Density PolyEthylene plastic)...no release agent is required
......these cloudy-plastic molds can often be purchased where
resins are sold (polypropylene or polyethelene)
......Tupperware
and RubberMaid containers are also made from HDPE
.........plastic
molds are easily scratched though (which will show
up on resin surface) so don't scrub to clean, or
wipe dry (air dry)
silicone
molds are excellent (no release needed)
... buy
silicone molds
... or make you own small silicone molds from two-part
silicone molding materials (for those see Molds
> Making your own>
Flexible Molds)
You
can make a mold from ordinary kids' plasticine
modeling clay (heat generated not too hot to melt?)
....... can
also make temporary walls of modeling clay on top of aluminum foil, pour in resin
to a little depth... cure ... remove
....or use Vinamold (melt
in a saucepan, and pour over --in a dam)
....would raw
polymer clay work?
latex
or rubber mold compounds... RTV compounds (need release)
...."disadvantage
to (all?????) flexible molds though is that castings
come out tacky and wavy because
heat from the resin when curing dissipates quickly
through the rubber molds" ...true only for polyester resins,
or for epoxy resins too??
...The
mold release you want to use for latex is silicone.... (latex) is not
compatible with epoxy, and you must use a silcone wax if you're working
with polyester. The most common release for both is pure carnuba wax (no fillers)
and PVA (poly vinyl alcohol). You rub several coats of the wax into the surface
with a soft cotton cloth, polishing well between coats. Then spray (with an airbrush
or paint gun) a couple of nice coats of the PVA.
Even
very rigid molds
can work as long as there are no undercuts, and the
mold angles outward at least a bit,
but may require a release
...(baked polymer clay?)
....glass...
metal... fiberglas... plaster... cement... wood...
etc.
RELEASES: some rigid molds or areas require releases,
some don't
.... here are some possibilities for releases for whole molds, or
just for areas to keep the resin off of
(though this is not
totally reliable information):
....Johnson's
Paste Furniture Wax ...can be wiped on a warm mold to provide an excellent
barrier
....pure carnauba wax (no fillers)
....oils, like
vegetable cooking sprays, plasticizers in raw polymer clay?
.....PVA
(poly vinyl alcohol) mold release... rub several coats of the wax into the surface
with a soft cloth, polishing between coats ...then spray couple of coats of the
PVA (last step necessary?)
....masking
tape ...clear packing tape (shiny side)
....ArmorAll
(silicone spray) (ok
for epoxies?)
....matte medium (or
other acrylics like Varathane?)
....(materials above
also, like silicone molding material, kids' modeling clay, raw polymer clay?)
MORE:
these releases were suggested for polyester resins, but should work
for epoxy resins too:
...(for glass & metal) ... mold release necessary
--purchase P.V.A. mold release
...(for plaster, Cement, wood, and any porous
molds) --can wipe inside with Pam veg. cooking spray
........or can apply
solution of 1 pt liquid-soap to 4 pts water (...let dry
before using)
....lightly seal mold with paste wax (amount
of catalyst in polyester resins should also be reduced
due to heat buildup)
waxes (carnauba, beeswax?, Pledge)
more info?: http://www.star-technology.com/epoxymix.html
Epoxies also won't
stick to sheets of polyethylene
-- like disposable paint tarps & sandwich bags-- or the shiny
side of packaging tape, or the sticky side of duct tape (can
peel off carefully), or to paraffin wax and waxed paper.
orientation
... finished pieces of epoxy resin which have been cast in a mold and removed
can be used either side up (i.e., the shaped surface
created by the bottom of the mold can be facing up, or the flat surface
of the former "top" side can be left facing up)
.....this is because
the upper surface of resin which had contact with the air while curing will
not be imperfect or tacky (would have been if polyester
resin had been used)
....objects which are embedded in the
resin can also be put into a mold (on a layer of cured resin) right side
up, or upside down
to
remove cured resin from molds
...just pop out, after flexing the mold if
necessary... or push from back of mold... and/or put in freezer awhile before
trying again
embedments
& inclusions in molds
Many small objects and images on paper
(sealed) can be embedded between layers of resin (the first layer poured
can be thin or thick, depending on how far from the surface you want the image
to appear)
...and particulate materials like glitters/powders/etc can
be mixed into the resin before pouring...ex's from SkinnerStudio
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__-YapsQxyXI/SY0O43IXDgI/AAAAAAAAARA/y07pv2WsBzs/s320/IMG_7925.JPG
...some
of those will require preparation before embedding..for example,
prints, .photographs, fabrics, paintings, etc.and should
be tested for compatibility with resin before casting since colors may
bleed, residual moisture could cause bubbling and/or cloudiness, some materials
may be affected by the heat generated during curing, etc.
..... (e.g., seal
items which are painted or dyed which bleed
and all porous materials... use only thoroughly
dry items or seal them, including bare wood ...but generally almost
anything can be used, as is)
(see more inclusions, colorants,
etc, above in Coloring + Inclusions + Fauxs)
lesson/info
re embedding paper into resin in molds
http://skinnerstudio.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-embed-paper-into-resin-part-two.html
...including tips on 3 options for when to embed (immediately,
or after gel which takes 1/2 hr to 3 hrs depending on type of resin and
environmental conditions, or once resin is rigid, for different purposes
...she also shows the use of a different color layer of resin as final
(backing) layer
lesson
on pouring Easy Cast into shallow plastic molds and embedding
objects, and sometimes glitter as a second layer, by I Sew Cute
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=254029.msg2832298#msg2832298
thoroughly
dried plants and flowers usually? keep their color and work fine
...I
embedded some live plant bits in resin...They looked fine at the time and
for a month or so after, but after an extended period they browned and started
to decompose. claraohara
......I tried using live flowers.. daisies
and clovers turned out ok for color... violets changed color from deep purple
to a washed out yellow & green. I Sew Cute
...you
could embed a cane slice in clear resin, so its sort of floating
there in the middle
.......then drill a hole through the corner
of the resin for a keychain ring (with an electric drill).... NF
....paperweights...little
signs..... embellishments,
etc.
....I've
made several "aquarium boxes" with a top(?) where fish appear to be
swimming
....cool pendants ...glass tubes filled with resin and
little objects (acrylic water type resin used, but could be epoxy?)
http://www.hussydesigns.com/waterworks.html
(bottom of page)
neigung's
lesson on making (one-sided) belt "buckles" in a mold (with
Easy Cast)
...some have with 2 color layers (e.g., yellow, then
clear on top)
.. images printed on photo paper added after first layer
has gelled (few hours) and bubbles squeezed out underneath
...metal buckle
with loop finding attached to the cured back, after removing from mold, with 5-min
epoxy glue http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=93700.msg885594#msg885594
(look below pics for lesson)
........I use the Liquid Glass brand and a
silicone mold (round shaped, 1" deep, and flat on top and
bottom). Dotty
...jewelry ...whole
resin beads or pendants could be made (see below too, under in Cells,
Clay or Metal Bezels., etc)
.......for inspiration, look at clinea's beads
made with polyester resin and molds some of which have inclusions
like glitter, feathers, etc.,
(some of her other beads are made from rods
and other shapes of purchased acrylic, which she sometimes grinds after
curing to add embellishments or change shapes)
http://www.clinea.com/products.htm
.....resin
beads made from epoxy wouldn't scratch as easily as her polyester resin
ones, but would maybe need to be less than 1/2" thick?
partial
embedding + adhesion
(in mold or not)
Objects
can be embedded -adhered just partially into top surface
of resin (as opposed to completely embedding)
.....e.g., small
objects...jewels...charms...clay slices, etc..... they
will protrude from suface
.....depth of sink in will depend on
depth of that layer of resin, or could maybe wait till top surface gelled up a
bit and not press in too hard?
.....see also embedding objects into resin for
snowglobes below in Other Uses
...nightlight...could partly
embed one of those tiny plastic plug-nightlights (with electrical plug
sticking out so could be plugged into wall), then add clay or other items-inclusions
to the resin "shield" for light to shine through
freeform resin shapes
freeform shapes of resin can be
created with resins (polyester resin in molds, or epoxy resin in shallow molds
or temporary cells)
...with aluminum foil (...or waxed paper?)
......create an open or closed "mold" with foil ... add resin...
let set ... peel off foil
...on glass (like liquid clay)... pour resin
on glass, then thin with card if want (will self level)... let set... peel off
.......or
surface can be shaped or textured by laying alum. foil over resin before
curing...shaping the foil... leaving to cure... peel off foil
other
clear sheets or "windows" .... pour resin on glass
as above... cure... peel
ice cubes ...pour
resin into (wood, but won't it stick?) temporary walls of modeling clay on top
of aluminum foil, or other temporary mold, to a little depth... cure ... remove
....score guidelines for cubes... then cut resin with passes
from craft knife (and steel edge ruler)
(also see waterfall, and sheet of water, below in Faux Water area)
in
Permanent Cells
...clay cells, or metal bezels,
pendant trays, bottle caps, etc....
(depressions or dams, etc.)
Various
kinds of "cells" or frames could hold resin inside them
permanently, and give a thick glass-like appearance over anything below them
...cells
could be made from polymer clay
...cells could be purchased
which are metal (bezels, bottle-caps, pendant trays**,
etc), wood, paper clay?, etc.
...cells could be large or small
...depressions
can be created in softer material (even clay, before baking)
......or
areas can be built with depressions
...walls/dams of some
kind can be built up on top of, or otherwise added to, firmer materials
....(walls
or depressions could also be created on, or with, paper,
foils, metal, wood, etc....or just about any surface that's not meltable in
a bit of heat)
Many small
objects, photos, etc., can also be embedded inside
the resin or under it
....(see
above, especially in Molds, for other lessons that deal with
embedding and inclusions --but upside down for molds versus cells)
And
many fine-grain inclusions (glitters, powders, etc.) can be mixed
into the resin
....some embedments will require
preparation (e.g., some photographs, all fabrics, prints,
etc.)... all should be tested for compatibility with resin before casting
.....seal items which are painted or dyed which bleed
......seal any highly porous
items with 4-to-1 water & white glue mixture (or 2 coats
of acrylic spray) or they could become translucent
&/or create air bubbles,
or use only thoroughly dry items ( also no residual moisture from bare
wood, etc.)
....some inclusions will require preparation
(for example, powders/glitters or individual items can have trapped
air in and around them so will cause problems in
the curing resin (mix well with small amount of resin before putting into main
resin to get rid of air)
(more info on sealing
for various reasons is above in Preparation + Sealing + Applying)
Can
glue any items, paper images, etc., to the bottom of the cell with permanent
white glue or superglue ... let dry
....fill cells) with
resin or other clear mediums**
......for epoxy resin, fill a tiny bit over
the rim of the cell and the resin will cure domed ...or fill only
to the rim and the resin will become
slightly concave as it cures (can paint walls of cell with matte acrylic
medium as a resist to try and avoid the sinking, or refill with more resin...
but may not notice
**clear
mediums for use in permanent cells:
epoxy resin, epoxy glue,
clear fingernail polish, dimensional glues (Diamond Glaze, etc.),
gloss polyurethane, Future-Pledge floor polish (I think), gloss
acrylic mediums, clear embossing powders, etc, in addition to epoxy
resin
metal cells
....usually framed, decorative, fairly flat
... photos, printed images,
and even small embedments and inclusions, etc, can be placed under the clear mediums
listed just above to give them a thick glossy covering:
....these metal cells
are being called by various names these days:
pendant trays,
cabachon settings, charm blanks, bead frames, photo "Italian
charms" once finished, etc
http://www.google.com/images?q=pendant+trays
..... http://www.google.com/images?q=cabachon+settings
...ganoskin's
lesson on embedding a photo in a shallow metal cell (using 2-part
epoxy glue, or regular epoxy resin)
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/epoxy.htm
(middle of page --"freeze frame")
.....photo
first sealed with white glue front/back/edges, or inside clear packing tape (tightly
pressing to edges before cutting around)... then adhered to bottom with superglue
...metal
frame cell filled with resin ...any bubbles popped
...he waited 2 hrs, then
added another layer of resin (repeated till cell full --this multi-layered technique
helps avoid bubbles?)...then cured normally
...John
Golden's video lessons (3-part)... embedding prints...
using an epoxy resin (he used Easy Cast) in general in cells-with-bails for pendants
& rings
..he sealed his (inkjet) print-outs
with ModPodge (2 coats, front and back--or use any thinned permanent white glue)
before cutting them out of his printed sheet --or could use any thinned white
glue)...would be good to paint the porous edges too
(after cutting out) to avoid more bubbles and avoid having to paint around the
corner edges as he shows or will "look wetter"
......he also shows
some support structures he cobbled together from pieces of foam core board for
holding the rings and pendants perfectly level while pouring and curing, especially
the ones with built-in bails
...he blows through a straw to remove some bubbles
(which is fine if don't also inhale)
...he works outdoors, and
uses a clear plastic tub to put over his pieces except when he's actually working
on them http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAEKnv0OU08
(part 1)
ganoskin's
lesson on embedding a thin image/etc. (shallowly or deeply)
in permanent cell with temporarily-open back
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/epoxy.htm
(epoxy resin "pane")
....he used a metal
shape with hole in the middle, and placed on top of sticky-side duct tape
....layer one: thin layer of epoxy added with syringe
to the opening of either a deep, or shallow flat object...cure 4 or more hrs
... add inclusion (in this case a piece of a 35 mm photographic slide?)...once
resin is gelled, place image with tweezers
....fill opening with epoxy resin
using a syringe, completely covering the inclusion ....cure, covered (24 hrs for
regular resin)
......repeat if doing more layers or deeper cast
....peel
the cured piece from the tape (carefully)
... if nec., wet sand the epoxy resin
on back side to remove any unwanted texture created by tape (will leave frosty
look but not noticeable.
Wendy's many
different resin examples --in metal cells, freestanding, etc.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gurucreations/sets/72157594453545269
Leslie B's faux metal frame (containing domed resin?) over a tiny
bird head and photo-text image
http://moodywoods.deviantart.com/art/odd-exhibit-45448929
inclusions and paper image embedded
into resin in metal ear plug "tunnels" by Complicated_85...not sure if
backed temporarily for the pour, or permanently
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/5180/plugs.jpg
Sherri's
various cells and frames (metal, and one made from polymer clay)
with filled with resin over small items
http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?gallery
(orange butterfly)
polymer clay cells
I
had some polymer clay pendants which I made with photo transfers which
were recessed, so I just poured a thin coating of the (Liquid Glass) epoxy resin
into the recess ...next day I had a beautiful, crystal clear covering that looked
exactly like glass, actually, better than glass. Dotty
...I
have made what I call "rock pool pendants"
.....
I used a faux stone clay as the base, with an indentation
in it (baked)
.......filled the depression with polyclay items like
starfish, seaweed, the odd guppy, etc. (could glue in place)
......
then I add a sprinkle of tiny beads and pearls and some tiny
shells
.......then fill with resin ...these are 2" across
and hang on a silk cord
..polymer clay "aquarium
beads" could be made with a thick layer of resin rather than a glass
pebble (see Misc > Marbles > Glass
Pebbles)
(see more ideas for faux metal and other frames in Frames > Very Small Frames)
metal_
bottle caps .......from beer, etc or can order blanks online......(would
plastic caps melt?)
(can remove plastic ring inside
the cap with pliers after heating with match... or can leave in)
...
add tiny things or photos, collages, small baked polymer clay items, etc..
then fill with resin (or with a clear liquid clay --Fimo
or Kato)
...use as jewelry (pins,etc.), embellishments, or
anywhere
...can drill holes in the caps (in fluted edge, or in
bottom just inside edge)...can use a leather punch or nail?...punch from the
inside, down onto wood?
........then add things like jump rings,
cording, etc.... can attach charms, beads, etc., to jump rings
... or later,
attach magnets or pinbacks to backs with E6000 or 2-pt epoxy glue
....can
paint inside of bottle cap first (with acrylic paint)
...It's
really fun making tiny collages to go inside ...
using half shells, lockets, jewelry settings, etc.
......can
use elements like pictures, clip art, watch parts, beads, fabric, lace, petals,
flowers, leaves, glass rhinestones**, junk
jewelry bits, etc. Shauna
(......**but test hard
plastics like rhinestones before using... some will be "dissolved"
by the resin)
...to prevent
resin from going where you don't want (esp. fr. gravity),
cover area with masking tape or use modeling clay (as temp. "retaining
wall", etc.)
..Shauna's lesson on metal bottle caps with
epoxy resin, plus examples
http://www.art-e-zine.co.uk/resin.html
......she
also pours the mixed resin into a small squeeze bottle or syringe
so it's easier to use in the small bottlecaps
..Katie's acrylic-painted
bottle caps.... with tiny polymer figures & items inside
http://photobucket.com/albums/v187/TurdFerguson/?action=view¤t=bottlecaps.jpg
.........(...or
look at http://www.effinfantastic.tripod.com)
..Sherry's
lesson on bottle cap + epoxy resin... with cutout picture & few small
pearls inside, glued in with white glue
....charm dangle hangs
from hole made in bottom fluted area of cap (with jump ring) --back of hole &
jump ring covered temporarily with tape
....uses 1" diam. image
cut with punch or circle cutter... self-adhesive pin backs or epoxy glue
http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?project4
..& http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?gallery
(click on bottlecap for more bottlecaps)
lesson
& lots of neat collages and paper-images-only in bottle caps
and other cells, with Envirotex Lite
http://www.art-e-zine.co.uk/resin.html
lesson on using Envirotex Lite with tips, also using it in bottlecaps...
by Tiffini Elektra http://www.ebsqart.com/ArtMagazine/za_483.htm
Kathy's lesson on
bottle caps + epoxy resin with a cutout picture inside
http://www.azcentral.com/home/crafty/articles/0726craftyideas26.html
(gone)
bottlecaps
with glitter acrylic paint, plastic sequins, and images in bottlecap, with magnet
on back (don't use plastic mixers though)
http://www.deepfriedkudzu.com/2006/11/decorated-resin-poured-bottlecaps.html
..Goldie's
bottlecaps... http://www.goldiegarcia.com/botcap.php3
..various bottlecaps with pictures, each placed on a handmade card
on top of one area (...to embellish & to make 3-D) --like putting
a 3-D a "head" on a 2-D stamped figure
http://www.techniquejunkies.com/subscriber_artwork/02-04-artwork/02-04_Bottlecaps.html
(2 pg.)
...could use as a "head" for a mixed media
figure
many
more video lessons on using resin for jewelry
in general, at YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=epoxy+resin+jewelry+pendant
(always check though to make sure the resin they say they're
using is actually the one they're using... you can tell
because of the product's name, or because epoxy resin is
mixed one to one wheras polyester or deep "casting" resin
is mixed using just a little catalyst-hardener to a lot of resin)
for
many more ideas on using epoxies in smaller "cells",
see Liquid Clay
> Cells ...then just substitute.
resin for liquid clay
..some possibilities:
....cloissonne,
"stained glass" effects, filling in stamped impressions, using
clay extrusions as dams, etc.
.......(I
do faux cloisonne with "cold enamel" (a pre-colored
2-part resin, see below). Sue
... make "windows"
or other clear sheets by pouring resin into a wood frame
"cell" (can use modeling clay "retaining wall" temporarily
around wood edges to so won't leak out)
large "cells" could also be things like faux ponds, puddles, lakes, etc., in miniature scenes (see below in Faux Water)
large
TRAYS, etc. ....can create your own larger tray (resin "cast"
in a permanent "container")
...if use bare wood, create
dam around perimeter with 1/2" half-round wood molding strips, etc
...seal
all wood (see above), making sure to get gaps around
joins ...and apply masking tape under edge to prevent resin sticking there
...pour
resin ...wipe drips... cure
...can decoupage something on wood before
resin (seal)... or even cover tiles
...Cindy's
photo her tray made with Envirotex Lite http://community.webshots.com/album/31233907NwmWHqLFrJ
(see more on trays above in Brands >
Found at Hardware Stores )
..."hard"
epoxy resins (like Ultra Glo or Aristocrat Liquid
Glass) give a hard, transparent result
..."fairly hard"
tweaked epoxy resins (like Easy Cast) give a fairly firm result, unless they're
warmed to body temp at which time they'll be softer and more flexible
..."softer"
epoxy resins (like Acrylic Water, Aristocrat Liquid Illusion) give a rubbery,
somewhat sticky, transparent result
(either can be colored throughout,
or have layers of diff. colors or saturations... using an uncolored layer on top
can give an esp. realistic look)
still
water ...larger cells could
be things like faux ponds, puddles, lakes, etc., in miniature
scenes
...can create smooth-surfaced,
shallow pools (up to 1/2" deep for hard epoxies, any depth
for soft epoxies)
...for water deeper than 1/2", use a polyester
resin... or use a soft epoxy resin ...or:
......could
apply layer of hard epoxy as final hard surface, over cured soft epoxy?
......could
cast hard epoxy resin deeper than 1/2" (in 4 1/8" layers)?... will just
be amber from too much resin depth, or intentionally color it
all
resins appear
to creep
up the
edges
of a pour (actually they're shrinking so becoming slightly depressed in the center)...
which will leave an uneven, unrealistic water's edge
......I've
heard how to hide those areas of creep with boulders, foliage, or
dull paint (but would like to know other ways)
......I
was told seal the edge (bank) with matte medium so that area
will then resist the resin while it's drying (and
shrinking), and allow it to flow back flat
.........(he also said to pour
from the middle of the lake or river, and there shouldn't be as much creeping...
or so he says). Martin
...about.com says" you will need to apply a
final edging (of resin?) to your water to eliminate the edge left as the resin
pulled away to the centre of the pour."
OR
create freestanding water ...then put it where you want it
....about.com
says things like puddles, etc. can be created by pouring "the resin onto
a flexible plastic surface to cure so that you can peel the plastic off to
remove the puddle, then place the puddle" where you want it.
... this is also helpful if you don't
want to see shrinkage at the edges but don't want to seal to the surface it's
shrinking from
some
colors for water:
...deep water is dark. Lex
...deep
water is usually greenish to blackish, not blue
....large bodies of water are almost black in the middle,
almost white at edges. Peter&Maryjane
...calm stagnant water
is brown
...ponds, harbors or swampy areas can have greens
and browns
....fast
running streams are light blue or even white
....to create
moving water, white or light paint can be dry brushed or
sponged on top of the harder resins, after
curing
...shallow moving water can be clear to the bottom,
or can be more opaque due to muddy sediment.
...for simulating clear
or semi-clear water, phathalo green acrylic paint (Delta Ceramcoat)
is a great color
...you can also create, increase, or add different
patches, of color by painting or otherwise coloring
the bottom of the depression before adding resin
...since
a water's color gets less saturated as it becomes shallower, simply
painting darker colors in center of the water, then progressively
lighter tints toward the water's banks can create the illusion of many different
depths, and much deeper water (even though the resin is actually all the same
depth)
lots of info and also more links on using
epoxy resin to make water effects at about.com
http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniaturebasics/p/epoxres.htm
I
have used depressions
in polymer clay to pour resin into to make rock "pools"
(then put clay mermaids, turtles, in them).
Sue Heaser
...other
materials can also be used to make cells (depressions) to hold the
resin, like:
(foams, plywood, papier mache over wire mesh,
cardboard or cardstock .... Hydrocal-plaster-soaked squares of newspaper,
or Hydrocal Lightweight, claylike Mold-A-Scene Plaster, regular
plaster, etc., etc.
I
have some baked polymer items (like fish) sitting in
resin "ponds" (non-polymer pond depressions?)
which are 10 years old and absolutely fine still. ....many
in the miniatures world have done this. Sue
Heaser
.....fish
can be installed using fine fishing line or wire to hold in plac
e as you fill in the pond (wire will show??). Lysle?
lesson
on putting miniature polymer clay tadpoles (and greenery) in epoxy resin
inside miniature bottle, in several layers (...layers are thicker
than 1/8" ea though, which is okay since these are miniatures??)
http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniatureprojects/ss/tadpolejar.htm
lesson
on making a pond & waterfall with "hard"
epoxy resin (Envirotex) + Styrofoam, plastic wrap,
Plaster of Paris, acrylic paints, etc
...also has polymer
fish, artificial grasses, cattails
http://members.tripod.com/~garnettes_miniatures/TUTORIALS/MiniPondBasics.html
lesson
on making ponds & waterfalls with fish
glued to the bottom of stone-wall pools (with hard epoxy...Envirotex
Lite)
http://www.miaa.com/how_waterfall.htm
(gone?)
lesson
on using Envirotex Lite to give a glossy coating just on top
of a pool (of gray plaster)
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips14/tips14.html#fountain
lesson
on making ponds with epoxy & polyester
resin
http://members.tripod.com/~garnettes_miniatures/TUTORIALS/MiniPondBasics.html
...start
with a piece of 1 inch thick styrofoam for the base. Then start adding
little scraps of styrofoam as in any basic landscaping technique. If you want,
build up an area for a waterfall.
Gouge out a hole in the styrofoam to make
the pond.
....Cover the whole thing with plaster. Make sure there are
NO holes in the plaster coat, as resin will melt right through your styrofoam
pond.
Once its dry, paint the rocks with the different shades
of brown.
The bottom of the pond should be shades of blue/green. Make
it darker in the middle (deep area) and very light at the outer edges. Paint the
inside of the pond and parts of the waterfall with dark and light mossy greens.
Let that dry.
Working on small areas at a time; where ever you want a spot
of fake moss, dab on glue using a brush. Then sprinkle on a bit
of the green landscape material. You can also add bits of real moss,
sticks etc. Continue on, until you have the desired effect you want.
I
like to make tall grasses and cattails to place around the water's edge.
When all the landscape material is in place, take a piece of plastic wrap
and fasten it to the place where the waterfall will be. (this part
can be hidden with rocks or shrubery. Drape it down your waterfall making sure
the it hangs, perfectly straight. (Water drops straight down). At the bottom fasten
it down. Move the base around a bit, until you get 'just the right look'.
Starting
at the top of the fall; pour out a small amount of resin and let it flow
into the pond.
Add some resin to the pond (about half full).
Now is the time to add some fimo fish, for that special touch.
JUST
for bubbles or a frothy look, at the bottom of the falls:
...using
polyester resin: stir the base of the fall, with a tooth pic. The
more you churn it up the frothier it will get.
...or, using a one-part meltable
gel resin (floral setting resin) Scenic Water: insert a small cocktail
straw into the resin at the base of the falls and blow gently...let set until
the falls stiffen.
Pour more resin down the falls, then stir
or blow more bubbles.
Let set and add more fish if desired.
Finish
pouring the falls and filling the pond. Stir or blow, again until you have the
look you want.
When resin is completely dry, finish by adding a few pebbes
that form rock ledges. Add your plants around the pond.
___'s
mini fountain...water in fountain bowl (with fish)--probably polyester?
resin but could be epoxy resin or other, since fountain bowl only ~3/4" deep?
...
and possibly also resin as upward sprays of water? (over wire armatures?)
http://www.amaco.com/amaco-bottlesofhope.html
I use food colors to dye epoxy resin a light blue/green...
If the streambed is painted properly, you won't need [or want] much color in the
epoxy resin.
...It does self-level, but I can build ripples downstream
from rocks, trees, etc. by using fiberglass aquarium filter pad material dipped
in it
.....For a waterfall, I attached angel hair to the top of the
falls and let the Environtex run down the angel hair to produce falling water.
...Want fish in your stream? For N scale, I cut curved slivers from a round toothpick,
painted them silver, dipped them in AC and applied them to the surface of the
water before the final pour. Everyone thinks they look very realistic, even though
they have to use a flashlight to find them. ham99
I placed
some gloss gel medium on top of the resin surface one it hardened to create
some *ripples* on the water and the sense of movement. I think it came
out pretty good. ...The medium on the surface seems to scratch easily and I think
it will be necessary to reapply a light coat when needed over time. Even added
a touch of white on the ripples where it goes around rocks and abutments. Chartiers
...could also coat with a layer of polyurethane to make less scratchable ....For
my water (less transparent water like rivers, etc.), I now prefer to use a water-based
High Gloss (poly?)Urethane over painted Durabond patching plaster. ... The finish
is extremely tough, even with 3-d waves and whitecaps...Easy to do, inexpensive,
and no odour at all. doctorwayne
to
make resin water look like it's flowing, make "waves"
in the polymer clay ... those will leave shadows
in the resin and make it appear to be moving. Judi
can also allow epoxy resin to begin to gel well before pouring to create more uneven water effects?
ripples (....fill the
pond with resin)
.... use a piece of waxed aluminum foil
(spread carnauba automotive paste wax or beeswax on the shiny side) floated
on the topmost layer of the (polyester?) resin to give you the ripples
(the wax ensures that you can remove the foil)... Lysle ...(shape resin under
foil while curing??)
more waterfalls
....I
have seen nice results where a friend used heavier clear plastic wrap, twisted
and straightened, anchored at top and bottom, and then dribbled acrylic resin
down that.
....(makes 2) ...wrap
fishing line around and around cardboard the size of the falls... pour
envirotex... when hard, cut 1/4" off the top and bottom... remove the cardboard
and have two waterfalls. Glue in place. Pour a bit more over the top. Slow it
running down with a hair dryer. Worked for me, took first place last year in Maritime
convention diorama. Hazen
... I brushed a little of resin over bits of angel
hair in a downward direction wetting all the strands (will mat together and
appear like water very quickly). Lex
....
I have let (soft epoxy resin) partially set up before pouring
to simulate a waterfall. Sloan
...I made convincting waterfalls
with clear silicone sealant (caulk?) tinted very lightly with a translucent
blue dye... I created them horizontally on wax paper and then used more sealant
to attach them in place after they had set. Jerry C.
.....after creating the
water, paint on some artists matte medium (the thick paste kind)... looks
white out of the jar but will dry clear. Jim
Glue
a length of clear fishing line in the position you want your water
to run ....then coat it with drops of resin
.....you may
want to add several coats to acheive the right thickness and effect
(side view of underwater pond?) ...once the solid pond is in place and hardened, you can then saw away a section of the side and polish it real smooth. Lysle
using softer epoxy resins or one-part gels or acrylic gel mediums, + unknown materials, etc:
lesson
on making pond and rocks, etc., with a (one-part) meltable
gel resin (Scenic Water) .. in layers
...doesn't dry hard
like casting resins though, anddust is going to
stick to it
...lay heavy plastic on a base with a depression or
cutout (she used oval shape of PolyPro)
...build wall around the "pond"
area with small flatish marble rocks (garden shop, Home Depot), glued
on with & E6000 one layer at a time (drying between)
...
seal... coat bottom and bit of sides with clear silicone caulk till
all is watertight ...spread into crannies (can do 2 coats)
... check seal with
water before painting
... she paints only bottom with black acrylic
paint (for depth, & may "hide" dust that will collect on
this resin's surface), or whatever color you want
... lay (or glue)
in various plants, flowers, etc
... 1st resin layer ....fill
with resin till covered.... let dry (gel a bit or cure?...see below in One-Part
Meltable Gels)
... glue fish on top of resin
....2nd resin
layer.... cover fish with resin ....let dry
... add water lillies and other
plants on top of water
...she makes bubbles with eyedropper
(repeated squeezes)
http://www.angelfire.com/ny/lymedisease/directions.html
Jeanne R. used a two-part floral setting
epoxy resin called Everlasting Elegance) for the deep clear water
contained in her miniature "fish bowl"
http://www.heartofclay.com/sb/cat17.jpg
...a similar lesson at michaels.com: ..clean
yr. glass container... glue fern into a shell...glue a fish to a piece
of the fern...glue into the round container.... arrange marbles and shells around
the shell with the fern... fill slowly with resin.
...hisart lesson
on using Acrylic Water floral setting resin inside clear "tubes"
of various kinds to simulate creatures in "specimen bottles"
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips11/tips11.html#resin
Realistic
Water (one-part, pour straight from bottle) (by Woodland Scenics)
would be my choice for flat water or slow moving water now. I would
rather use it than a resin. Jim
(for more on these one-part mediums, see below
in Softer Epoxies, under One-Part Meltable Gels)
Polytranspar
Artificial Water (a polyester
resin) ...an improved formulation allows even greater clarity
on deep pours. ... create water surfaces, splash scenes, and ice effects
(in taxidermy habitat scenes)
...tip
for resins: to prevent resins from creeping up
the edges of a bank,
leaving an uneven, unrealistic looking water's edge, I
was told seal the (bank) with matte acrylic medium (the sand
or gravel bank will then resist the resin and allow it to flow back flat
as it shrinks, while drying). Martin
artist's
clear acrylic "mediums"
...at art supply stores, or fewer at craft stores like Micheals
... (gel
medium?.. thicker)... just paint a layer on and add waves, a little white on the
whitecaps and you're done....these mediums are usually mixed into acrylic paints
to give them various characterisitics --glossiness, thickness, etc.)
...can
be brushed onto (or poured)
a pre-shaped and pre-painted surface to create water effects
(stream, pond, small creek)
...... won't make
a flat mirror-like
surface though (matte acrylic
medium only, or all acrylic mediums?)
.......can
be colored with acrylic paints while wet or painted with them after drying
....add sand, small rocks and dirt on the banks and islands from your real materials
supply. Wet it with the glue solution to set it. I usually wait till the everything
else is complete before adding vegetation texture material along the stream banks.
... fast moving water ....whip it around rocks or shallows and highlight
with white acrylic paint to form ripples or foamy white caps...can add gloss.
Booker1067
.. I like artists' gloss medium
for ponds... it looks good & it's economical ($5 per
pint at Walmart in arts-crafts area)
...tip for resins: to prevent resins from
creeping up
the edges of a bank, leaving an uneven, unrealistic looking water's edge, I
was told seal the (bank) with matte medium (the sand or gravel
bank will then resist the resin and allow it to flow back flat as it shrinks,
while drying). Martin
clear
acrylic finishes (polyurethanes, clear waterbased "glazes",
Future-Pledge or other clear flood polishes, etc), perhaps tinted with
food color, tube watercolors, etc
....frozen
pond or ocean created in Altoid tins...
finish poured into or next to baked polymer clay "sandy beach"
or "snow"
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=36813.msg319795#msg319795
http://i.xanga.com/mamakitty/snowtin1.JPG
(gone)
(see
below in Simulations of Resin for using Future, Varathane-polyurethane,
PolyGlaze, and UTEE as faux water)
running
water (also see waterfall lesson, making ripples, etc. above)
products
besides epoxy resin are better for the effects of running water...
but most can be also combined with pre-hardened epoxy resin... about.com
...."polyester
resin can be made to have bubbles , where epoxy resins won't get
(or retain?) bubbles"
(see more on simulating
all kinds of water in Faux-Many
> Water-Bubbles)
VARIOUS
or UNKNOWN resins used when simulating water:
Alexandra's scummy pond
(for Halloween garden)
...made in cutout area of thick plywood base
for scene... draped with a flexible waterproof sheet of ___ (to create
a rounded bottom?) and hold in the resin --resin colored & cloudy (with
inclusions?) ...painted bottom
...partly submerged crocodile ...lily
pads, etc., on surface.... bordered with clay rocks
http://www.alexandrablythe.co.uk/garden.htm
Alexandra's
clear pond (greenish-brownish painted bottom + clear resin?)
....ducks,
cattails, lily pads, floating leaves (on surface or partly submerged
....irregular
pond shape is created in short, small irregular mound of ____, covered with terrain
material
http://www.alexandrablythe.co.uk/photogallery/commissions/commissions-pics/Farmyard-Pond.jpg
Ladybug's
freestanding miniatures for sale
...pond (dark blue "water")
in base of painted plaster?...surrounded by terrain material, sphagnum?
moss "bush" & mushrooms
...(freestanding) waterfall
over large rocks ...birdbaths ...rock wishing well
http://www.ladybug-fairies.com/garden.htm
various
ponds, etc. http://www.hussydesigns.com/waterworks.html
the
hisarts site has has many lessons & examples using various types
of resins:
http://tinyurl.com/7dg42
miniatures....
foods, liquids
...coatings can be used over miniature
foods to create the look of "wet" or shiny foods
...can
also be cast into containers of various kinds as drinks, soups, etc.
.....Bev's "chicken gravy" (gone)
......Sherrill
Kahn's?
lessons on miniature
carrots, broccoli & caulifower put in tiny jars with liquid, plus
tips (gone)
(...... see Miniatures
> Foods for inspiration)
TABLETOPS
(coat)
Used by many restaurants and bars on their tables, bars, and
countertops for a clear high gloss, long lasting, finish (no dam needed)
http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/18/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2338
... if large area to be covered, will
need helper to keep mixing batches
(see much more info
on covering table tops and other large areas above under Brands > from
Hardware Store)
coating plaques, photographs, certificates, diplomas, decoupage, clocks, bar and table tops, trays., etc.. Heat and alcohol resistant. waterproof...no polishing required.
Kathy's lesson on
coasters (picture glued onto ceramic tile with white glue)
http://www.azcentral.com/home/crafty/articles/0212craftyideas12.html
Can coat terra cotta with resin, but if don't seal it first, will turn a dark brown.
lesson
...pour some 2-pt epoxy resin (like Envirotex Lite) into the cap of a baby food
jar to hold the figurines, etc., to make a snowglobe (let it cure for 48
hrs before continuing)...resin could be colored as well... see Coloring
above... at Creative Juice program's website
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_glass/article/0,2025,DIY_13758_4420839,00.html
(also
see nightlight and garden stones with sand coating above)
can stiffen paper, cardstock shapes
can
decoupage paper images, etc., onto surfaces, then cover
with resin
(use a sealer on both sides first, to adhere and cover
...like thinned white glue, or light spray of acrylic? )
however,
porous materials (like paper) will be automatically
translucent if you use resin on them without
sealing first
....translucent "containers"
or vessels (which can even hold water, if desired) can be created ---for example
with a paper envelope, a paper bag, or vellum (can
make it into bags too)
........ lit candles look nice in these bags
(but them put in glass votives inside bags though)
......(coat
the outside first by placing envelope or bag over a waxed paper-covered
cardboard tube, etc., then pour & brush resin over it ... let cure
12 hrs (mottling will disappear with other coating)..... prop envelope open
(in box, etc.) and coat inside ......cure 12 hrs.... (can punch
hole if desired)... let cure another 12 hrs at least before using
or filling with water
.....if want sturdier vessel, add second
coat to inside
...the people at Envirotex and some old manual I had years
ago suggested using a tongue depresser to occasionally scrape the drips
off the bottom of dipped items as they cure.... (dip the piece, hang it
with a wax-coated nail or cord (waxed dental floss maybe?) (so the resin
won't stick) over wax paper... then every once in a while come back and run the
stick over the bottom edge to get the drips --that was the technique they used
in the 80s for paper jewelry made with resin coatings. bigeyes
For a satin finish, polish cured resin with 0000 steel wool with a bit of moisture on the surface... wipe clean ...polish with a carnauba based wax.
...epoxy
resins might also work for sealing clay items in snowglobes
(or leaving submerged in ponds, etc.) so they don't
absorb water over time and get a whitish
coating (most visible on dark colors)....I called a technical person at
the company and asked …he guessed it would work well, and that it should
not absorb water over time.... I haven't tried it yet though.
(........see
Outdoor > Snowglobes for more on exposing
polymer clay to water or sun)
....he said we might want to cover
the item with Elmer's Glue first ....then let dry for 1-1
1/2 hrs.
....then either brush on the combined liquids, or dip
the item in them
.........If dipping, leave on a piece of waxed
paper to dry (any dripping excess will peel right off the waxed paper, and it
can be trimmed with scissors).
.........If using a brush
(to make the coating thinner) he recommends a small foam-type brush which
wouldn't leave brush marks.. Diane B
this week I
have been using it to make faux dichroic glass pieces. Dotty
in CA
lots of info... lessons ... more
uses .....
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envinstr.htm
More-technical info
true for epoxy resins
as well as polyester resins?:
The catalyst (hardener)
starts a chemical reaction that generates heat (creates an
"exotherm") as the parts polymerize (which cures the resin)
With
small amounts of resin, the heat of curing is not noticeable
...if
you're using larger amounts though (like when I pour for waterfalls), you
can feel some heat if you place your hand over the curing resin.
Judi
...if covering a whole table, etc., you're like to feel lots of heat
...because heat accelerates chemical reactions, all resins cure from the INSIDE
out.
....using too much catalyst will overheat
the casting (excessive exotherm), causing resin shrinkage
and cracking, and discoloration
....exotherm can be controlled by adjusting
......the amount of
catalyst used.... the volume or thickness of resin poured
(at one time)... and ambient temperature (the higher the temperature,
the faster the gel ... too fast a cure will cause
fractures.)
......thicker (taller) pours require less catalyst
because a thick casting retains heat... whereas a thin section dissipates
the heat requiring more catalyst.
.....humidity slows the
cure of resin... moisture in the resin, which may come from humidity in the
air or from temperature present in embedments, can cause the resin or casting
to be cloudy.....keep resin capped tightly when
not in use.
...cold weather during
shipment or in storage can cause crystallization
or cloudiness to
occur... to clear up, put the bottle in a pan filled with very hot tap water ...should
clear within 15-30 minutes ...always store between 70-85° F
http://www.bdclassic.com/instructions/AristocratHG.pdf
pre-Colored resins
to buy (2 pt., hard)
aka
"Cold enamels" .. epoxy enamels, though those
names probably aren't technically correct, and are frowned on by enamel
artists
These are generally transparent,
2-pt., colored epoxy resins (aka epoxy enamels)... but also come
in opaque?
...more like paints than things to pour?
(OR...you
can tint your own clear epoxy resins with oil paints,
or special colorants sold for them --see above)
"Cold
enamels" are certainly quite different than other paints as they stay
looking wet even when they are hard, and you can build up layers
for depth
...they harden without shrinking
at alll.... they are plastic resin but do look just like
real "enamel" - and they work so well on polyclay! Sue
You
can get lovely feathered, marbled and swirled effects by dropping
in different colors and drawing a needle through when still wet. Sue
I immediately pictured it drizzled over a pc pot, or laid into little depressions in the clay like appliques .
cold enamels work very well on polyclay too - I covered
this in an article in the Polyinformer a while back with cloisonne polyclay
- it looks so lovely
..... I use the transparent coloured ones for
cloisonne - over metallic powders on polymer clay - again, you get
that nice feeling of depth in pools of colour. Sue
You can use it to make good opals too - it gives a lovely depth..Sue
I've also used (blue?) transparent cold enamel to make tiny rock pool beads. Make all the rocks, fish, seaweed etc out of polyclay, bake, and then fill the pool with transparent cold enamel for the water - they make wonderful pendants. I made some about 5 years ago and they are fine so there is no adverse reaction between the two media. Sue in UK (see also aquarium beads, in Beads)
Yes, (the transparent?)
is still crystal clear - no yellowing at all after 5 years.
....It is the
ordinary cold enamel that people use for making mock enamel jewellery -
you stir in a hardener and leave it 24 hours to set. Most of it is coloured
but you can get the transparent. Sue
Sue,
I remember your article about using cold enamels. I tried it using acrylic
enamel paints (?), and it worked fairly well. But I never could locate
cold enamels.
.....There are some cool recipes for stuff that
looks like cold enamel
in "Frames with Flair" by Suzanne McNeill
.... the author
mixes 1/2 water-based polyurethane with 1/2 acrylic paints for a
shiny enamel look
.... For a dimensional look that can
be applied with squeeze bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking soda
to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp paint. MJ
suppliers
and brands-types
(of pre-colored epoxy resins)
craft stores, jewelry suppliers, etc., in the colored (and non-colored version)
Colores
Epoxy Resin ...thin-bodied 2-pt epoxy resin
... sold by
Rio Grande in the catalog (they have one large kit with all
the colors, or smaller kits with colors in categories: bright/opaque, transparents,
and pearly. (800) 545-6566 for info ...... the bottles themselves say there are
a 2-part epoxy resin
....Rio Grande sells 2 lines of epoxy resins with coloring
agents called Colores and Durenamel.
....... you can mix colors as if
you were mixing paints
.......Rio Grande's web site is www.riogrande.com.
They don't have an online catalog though, so you'll
want to either call them or order one.
(another option is to buy a plain 2-part
epoxy adhesive (plain old epoxy glue) or uncolored epoxy resin and color it yourself
with artist's pigments (or oil paints, ec.) stetreault
....the MSDS at riogrande.com
says the colored part is a "low viscosity epoxy" (thin bodied)
which is added to the hardener
....Sue, I saw something in the Rings &
Things catalog that looked like enamel, and I'm wondering if it's the same thing.
It's a two part liquid solution, in colors, that air-dry to look like
an enamel finish. I think it is some sort of colored epoxy? Does this sound
like what you are talking about? I was thinking of ordering some anyhow, because
it looked so interesting, but I never even considered the possibility of using
it on polymer clay! If this is indeed the same thing, I am going to be placing
a big order very soon.......the possibilities boggle the mind.
....That's
them, Juli! Oh good, I thought "cold enamels" must be available in the
US... and Jami has used them too. I started using them because of my frustration
of a lack of truly transparent polyclay - then I kept finding more to do with
them *on* the baked polyclay... Sue
....the Colores system has the epoxy resin
in many different fabulous colors and textures (pearls, jewel tones, opaques,
metallics, transparents) that you mix with a hardener (2 to 1 though)
.....
Now this stuff is extremely messy and drips
a lot so ...I applied it very sparingly with a cosmetic sponge and set
the items on my paper plate with the thumb tacks to raise them while they dried.
..
...They must dry (cure) for 24 hours and DO NOT touch them while they are drying
or you will ruin the finish.... creates a porcelain look with that glass enamel
Faberge type look.... It does give a fabulous finish and the colors available
are exquisite IF you can stand working with this messy stuff. (the kit)
also comes with clear epoxy resin if you don't want colored
resin. Wilma
...more easily scratched?
I
have hunted through my catalogues and only found two entries - one gives no brand
name, the other is the sort I use made by Dryad. Dryad products
are marketed in the US by ColArt Americas Inc. of New Jersey Tel:
908-562-0770 They should be able to tell you if they supply cold enamels.
.....If
you have no luck there, you can get them from "Homecrafts Direct"
which have a lovely catalogue and will send things worldwide - they take credit
cards which makes ordering from another country easy. They have a website:
www.speccrafts.demon.co.uk
(gone?) and
list email as: post@speccrafts.demon.co.uk …Sue
Recently
I started playing with the low-temp (enamel) resin? stuff, which cures
at 250-300 degrees.
...My dear sweet husband laughed at the prices
I was paying for that, and referred me to
http://www.eastwoodco.com
-an auto supply company, and the low-temp enamels are used on
automobiles
...they have a terrific selection of colors, and the
quality is better than what I was using (Ceramit?). weditt
Ceramit
(aka Ceramitation) is a low-temperature-curing resin.
It's a liquid two-part system
....the catalyst and a color are mixed,
then fired at low temperatures.
There is a shelf
life to the catalyst (about 1 year). There are a variety of opaque and
transparent colors which can be mixed and matched for different effects. It's
very easy to use.
.....Ceramitation, however,
is subject to scratching,
wear marks, cracking and fading
(over time).
...though Ceramitation will cure in normal
daylight, it will take a hrs-days and results are unpredictable). Elaine Corwin
.....cure
it either by leaving it in a dust free area for about 24 hrs, baking
it in an electric oven at 200F for one hour, or using an
infra-red lamp There is a hazardous material
charge for mailing the catalyst, and you should use it in a well-ventilated
room. The nice thing about cured materials is that you don't have to worry about
how to safely dispose of the little bits that are left over
-- pour it out on a piece of foil and throw it away when it has hardened.
.....It
comes in bunches of colors in opaque, transparent, and flourescent..... can vary
the proportions of color & catalyst to affect its flexibility
......I have
mixed Pearl-Ex interference powders into the clear with very nice results.
Be careful of bubbles.
If you choose to apply it by brush -- don't use an expensive one and clean it
immediately, I never got all of the enamel out and had to toss mine. Jami Miller
Both Ceramit and Colorit produce a hard ceramic-like surface resembling kiln-fired enamel, but one is more durable than the other.
Colorit
is actually ceramic-reinforced composite material (a material from
the dental industry)
...Like Ceramitation it's a liquid
and it's very easy to use, but it is photosensitive and cures by
light and in a few minutes, rather than the
chemical reaction/heat that cures ...a special light is supplied in the Colorit
Kit (not an ultraviolet light, but a blue light in a range of about 200 to 600nm
with an ultraviolet and infrafred filter making it more user friendly).
...Colorit
is a lot tougher than Ceramitation ...including polishing
to a high shine, sandblasting, milling and drilling, filing, carving and lathe-turning
...has a wider range of color choice than Ceramitation including Deep Colors,
Neon, Pearlescent and unique Eye-Effect colors.Elaine
Corwin
"SOFTER"
Epoxy Resin
("floral setting resin"
..."acrylic water")
(clear, 2 pt.)
can pour
deep amounts without layering
floral
setting resins are different
from the regular (hard) 2-part resins in some ways
....there also may
be be two types ...the most common one is 2
liquids poured together --one to one, or almost one-to-one? (purchased
in floral depts of craft stores, etc.)
????....and
the other is a one-part which is melted (or doesn't have to be melted)??
advantages:
....no
fumes/odor at all (...so no ventilation needed)
....less
heat generated
....very clear at any depth
....good
for filling little containers like glasses with "drinks",
etc. bec. any surface dust won't matter much
....will
create "bubbles" nicely, if desired
(....both types? not
adhesive like other epoxies are)
disadvantages:
....slightly rubbery and flexible
when cured (don't get hard "so they won't crack" when poured
deep?)
....will attract dust to their surfaces
because of their stickiness and softness (see cleaning
below?)
.... embedments can move around in the
cured gel if jiggled, etc.?
....more expensive than hard epoxy(?) ...(more
expensive than polyester)
(as with other resins)
....will
yellow with UV light (direct sun, fluorescents)
....don't
mix when humidity is excessive
........don't place any items in it which have
water/moisture = cloudy
....if the two parts are
not blended completely, they cannot chemically react together to harden evenly,
leaving sticky spots
....look in the floral section of most craft stores (see brand names below)
...sets
within 18-24 hrs ...depending on amount of pour and ambient temperature
......OR?
takes around
48 hrs to set
(...it is extremly thin when first mixed, and only
starts to set after about 5
hrs)
....dries crystal clear with
no air bubbles (unless
stirred)
...use glass, plastic, or metal containers to
measure (must be clean and dry)...do not use Styrofoam or styrene
...use metal,
plastic or rubber stirrers (popscicle sticks okay since throughly dry?)
resin
clean up ....Windex, alcohol, or mineral spirits (maybe soap/water)...
permanent when set
(as with other resins) do not pour down sinks,
or pour back into container
When dust collects
on the surface (long after curing), may be able to clean that dustry
surface with a very mild solution of clear dishwashing
liquid and water, applied with cotton balls... but must be 'rinsed'
with plain water (cotton balls) and dried, or it will film
over
....12 months shelf life
coloring
floral resins
AIFA developed a technique referred to as "bleeding"
to color Everlasting Elegance (or any floral resin prob.)
....add small pices
of (non-fade resisitant) crepe paper to resin...stir until the color
you want... strain paper out
....drop colored marbles (or colored glass
chips?) into container, then pour resin over just to cover (stir?)
....GardenOfUtopia
uses gel food colors (but contain water, so ok for clarity?)
...can also color
with oil paints, etc, as with hard epoxies?
sealing if
you don't want bleeding
...some fake floral stems will bleed (esp. dark green
& red), so seal those (can test first, but can takesev. weeks)
.....most
solvent-based ? aerosol clear coats will work ...like Krylon or other brands
of spray clear coating
.....can also seal as with other
epoxy resins?
always clean glass containers (inside?) with glass cleaner before pouring resin
Jeanne
R. used a two-part floral setting epoxy resin (Everlasting Elegance)
for the deep clear water contained in her miniature "fish bowl"
http://www.heartofclay.com/sb/cat17.jpg
...a similar lesson at michaels.com: ..clean
yr. glass container... glue fern into a shell...glue a fish to a piece
of the fern...glue into the round container.... arrange marbles and shells around
the shell with the fern... fill slowly with resin.
...hisart lesson
on using Acrylic Water floral setting resin inside clear "tubes"
of various kinds to simulate creatures in "specimen bottles"
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips11/tips11.html#resin
...video
lesson on making a clear(ish) "molded Jello" by GardenOfUtopia...
she used a floral setting resin instead of a regular epoxy resin
so after curing had to coat with acrylic finish to keep cover stickiness
on outside
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80TMY1usH3M
set
silk flowers (or anything you want) in fake water (inside transparent
vase, container, etc.)
....can use marbles, etc., at bottom of container to
hold stems in place as resin sets
....or ....where are
other instructions?? criss cross
......place
and arrange silk flowers in vase using tape or modeling clay
to temporally hold flowers in position.
....pour in gently
so no splashing or running
down sides (can use funnel)
more
lessons using floral setting resins, including ponds and waterfalls
....see Faux Water area above (under Hard
Epoxy Resins > Uses)
(as
a finish ...+ submerged in real water)
...I made some polymer
clay mermaids which have been sitting in a (real) pond (some
have their tails are immersed in the water and others have their upper torsos
in water)
....it's been about 6 months and there hasn't been any
change in the quality of the clay pieces in the water
...also when the
tank is cleaned, the mermaids are easy to wipe off with a damp sponge and a little
dish soap
BRANDS
Aristocrat Liquid Illusion Clear Floral
Resin (by Aristocrat, by BD Classic) ... mix 1 to 1
..(...this kit makes
8 oz. of acrylic water from 4 oz. resin and 4 oz. hardener)
http://www.burlapcreations.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FLRS-1003&Category_Code=FCS5
... if adding stones or other solid items (to
the vase) in the Acrylic Water , make sure they're clean and grease free
first
...... pour in only enough to cover those, then mix to
get rid of any air pockets...then fill the
rest of the way
....cover
lightly... 36 hrs. to cure... may yellow
over time if used under direct sunlight or fluorescents
...when
used with artificial flowers, etc... fill halfway... arrange flowers...
pour in rest (keep stems in place with criss-crosses of tape)
......some stems
may dissolve their color
into resin, so coat with white glue first to seal
color in (see info on sealing above, under Hard Epoxy Resins > preparation)
http://www.bdclassic.com/instructions/Liquid_Illusion.pdf
Acrylic
Water (by Le Silk Shoppe) ... found at Walmart, in floral section
...hisart
lesson on using Acrylic Water floral setting resin inside clear "tubes"
of various kinds to simulate creatures in "specimen bottles"
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips11/tips11.html#resin
Clear Elegance (by Industrial Polymers,
Inc?) ...1 to 1
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/clear_elegance.html
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/clear_elegance_popup.pdf
working
life: 12 hrs at 72 F....full cure: 24 hrs at 72 F...hardness 55
shore A
UV stable in sunlight ??? ......clean up with
mineral spirits
do not mix when the product or room temperature is below
64 F or above 78 F....do not expose to direct sunlight while mixing or curing.
not
for extremes of temperature
Aqua
Clear (1 to 1)
http://pages.goodbuygirls.com/326/InventoryPage/1710414/1.html
...casts dry within 18-24 hours, depending on the size of the pour and
ambient temperature
Solid
Water (by Deluxe)
(1 to 1).....is
a product available here in the UK . Sue
....sets
in 12-24 hours in warm conditions
http://www.deluxematerials.com/hintstips.html
(links to info and projects)
````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Quick
Water (acts like acrylic water,
but is a urethane chemistry, NOT an acrylic)
....cures in
8-10 hs. ("will not yellow like it's acrylic competitors")...
http://www.hussydesigns.com/waterworks.html
(bottom of page)
Everlasting
Elegance (Michaels, etc.) ...almost 1 to 1??
...not sure about this one
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=fl0010&channelid=
ONE-PART (softer? clear
GELS)... reusable
("resins" or not??
... acrylics?)
heat to use
(these will not adhere to inside of glass vase, so it's easily removable -- can be remelted and used again)
Scenic Water
(by Deluxe)
....1-part
(called a "resin") ...
think it's a gel (comes in a jar)
....melts
(and re-melts so can be re-used) with fairly hot
water--130-140° F (55-60° C.
barely too hot for hand
.......boiling will destroy it though,
so use a double-boiler
..........float a pot
(or tin can?) in water in saucepan ...begins to become liquid in 5-10 min.
...then
cools, and sets to a gel
...slightly amber
tint, esp. in thicker applications
...surface
tension greater than that of water... can smooth curvature
with warm spoon
...may cause a slight discoloration on
metal (or can seal first)
...can
put in frig to speed up setting
http://www.scenicwater.com
.....http://www.scenicwater.com/magic-water2.html
(info)
http://www.deluxematerials.com/hintstips.html
(links to info and projects --take a long
time to load!)
...heat gun can
be used on surface of partly-set resin to create ripples, waves,
flow patterns, etc.
.....although
one person said that water resin became level again after heating ....
they suggested using a blast of cool air
...or apply resin just
as beginning to set and becoming
sticky (from syringe, etc.)
Wonder
Water Clear Floral Arranging Gel -Removable
http://1online-shopping.com/joann/page235.shtml
http://www.mossfoam.com/MainPages/wonderwater.htm
...says
it does not yellow
...pour warm Wonder Water into a vase or container
(too hot for plastic?), insert pre-arranged flower stems (etc.)
.......and
let stand until liquid solidifies back into a gel
E-Z
Water (by Woodland Scenics) .....yellow
pellets (come in a bag) ...double-boiler: melted in a tin can (over
pan of hot water) ...can be re-melted ... yields smooth surface, still water
...E-Z
Water was Woodland Scenics' original product before
developing Realistic Water
.......IMO
their later Realistic Water
is a far, far better product than EZ Water (see RW
just below). cnj831
.......it's difficult
to melt and pour, you waste a pot, and mine dried
yellow (too hot?) with some air bubbles. tbatt55
http://www.internethobbies.com/internethobbies/woodscenezwa.html
waterfall
....hang short lengths of fishing line over edge of fall...pour small amounts
of resin over edge (ill solidify around fishing line as it cools)
......
or someone suggested pouring resin into a "tube"
created by scrunching a folded alumin foil
square with piece of string inside (remove string
before pouring)... refrigerate... pull foil off (can roll any excess back into
main resin shape with fingers...attach to top of area desired with more resin,
and trim bottom so just below bottom water
...bubbles... allow
resin to begin cooling, then blow bubbles just beneath surface with syringe full
of soapy water (use liq. detergent)... may end up with large bubbles
though
.....or... place some bubbles created in soapy water on top of uncured
resin... put in frig (creates realistic frothy appearance in resin after awhile)
...white
foam (on beer, etc.) ...foam clear resin (becomes white with added air), then
add foam to top of colored resin in container
....create
other shapes of water separately as well (between layers of alum.
foil) and regfrigerate... remove and attach where wanted
newer ones... no heating
Realistic
Water (by Woodland
Scenics)... liquid in bottle ... for moving water or still water
...no heating
or mixing ...pours directly from bottle and is self-leveling ...for
lakes, ponds, rivers, etc.
...flexible, therefore easy to model.....
water-soluble for easy clean-up
...can only be poured to a depth
of 1/8".... so should be shallow...can build up layers?
http://www.billandwalts.com/wdl_water.ep.html
...http://www.pwmrc.org/water/Water.htm
(scroll down to Realistic Water for Windswept Lakes and Slow Moving Rivers)
....Realistic Water is a far, far better product than
EZ Water.
..... If the instructions are followed
carefully the results for Realistic Water are excellent. .
..... is rather
sensitive to humidity levels when drying, so be sure
to give it ample time between layers/coats....it will find
even the tiniest hole to leak out of though! cnj831
Water
Effects (by
Woodland Scenics) ...liquid in bottle
...a thicker
version of Realistic Water? ...
for waterfalls, rapids, or
churning water ....raised ripples, small waves
...no mixing or heating... pour directly
from bottle...flexible, therefore easy to model....water-soluble for easy clean
up
http://www.billandwalts.com/wdl_water.ep.html...
.http://www.pwmrc.org/water/Water.htm
EPOXY ADHESIVES (primarily used as adhesives)
Nancy Banks sometimes
mixes embossing powders into 2-part epoxy "glue" (like
Devcon...?30 min. setting type) with a stick
......she
then uses this in a mold made from silicone ... wrap
aluminum foil (?) (won't stick to epoxy)
......can wet sand,
if needed... clear and very interesting
realistic
eyeball...using an epoxy adhesive
...(Devon Clear
Two Component Epoxy adhesive) ...is this really Devcon's 10 Minute Epoxy
Clear? (cures somewhat flexible, 50 ml per package)... or Devcon's
5 Minute Epoxy (cures hard, clear?, 2.5 oz or 15 oz)...(hardware store
or Sears?)
...colored with dry tempera
paint powders
...mold made from 2 -pt silicone from a round object like
pingpong ball or marble
...pupil created by dropping one small drop
of black-colored resin into center of bottom of mold from a toothpick (held upright
in stand?)... tap outside bottom of mold to help resin settle in perfect round
...iris
created by dropping larger amount of colored resin over black drop (paint brush
or toothpick) (tap bottom)
...white of eye created by filling with colored?
resin... let cure overnight.
...can sand to even and add coating (1 or more)
of epoxy, etc. (see Coating above) to give wet look
http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art25389.asp
(see
more on 2-pt epoxy adhesives in Glues >
2-pt Epoxies)
SIMULATIONS of resin (acrylic)
Future
can also act as a substitute for a true resin ... it
will thicken up if I leave it out overnight or in an open
container for a couple of days
...to color it, add some acrylic paint
......then pour or paint that thickened stuff inside
cups, bowls (or as pond, etc.) to simulate a transparent or translucent
liquid (a food like gravy, orange juice and lemon curd, etc.)
......or
pour/paint over bits of food stuffs on miniature plates (or anything else)
as thick paint-glaze
...this goopy stuff is interesting and not as
scary as resin is to some folks. Nora-Jean (but will it bubble when baked if
there's very much of it ??)
...if I screw up, I use a Q-tip wet
w/ hair spray to wipe both Future floor wax and acrylic paint off.
...if
left clear (uncolored), can yellow slightly over time with exposure to
UV light (sun, fluorescents, etc.)
(see Finishes
> Future for more)
(see above in Faux Water for using clear acrylic mediums and clear finishes as faux water)
Varathane... (see Finishes > Varathane for more) ...will not yellow over time
Poly-Glaze...new
polymer clay finish ("dimensional glue") by Lisa Pavelka and
Ranger ...also Judikins & others
...comes in a squeeze
bottle with a fine tip for squeezing out dots, or on surfaces.
...for
thicker coverage, (simulating resin or cloisonne, etc.) apply
several thin coats, letting dry between (15-60 mins or till clear)
......is
also possible to create a dimensional, rounded-edge glaze which
extends up higher than any enclosing areas, but must apply in layers and
outline each area (then fill in just till level with outline)
...must
seal the finished glaze with clear nail polish to create a waterproof
finish (or may become cloudy from too much contact with moisture or body
oils)
...can use on scrapbook pages (acid free) ... flexible
...first
squeeze may have bubbles if don't shake glaze down into nozzle ..prick or drag
out any bubbles before drying
...high gloss, covers bumps and lumps, create
a smooth or dome finish, etc.. Michelle
...available at Lisa Pavelka's site
http://www.heartinhandstudio.com/poly_bonder&_glaze.htm
... soon to be in stores, and other polymer websites. Carlee
...(same as Ranger's
Glossy Accents? ... they call theirs a "decorative glue"
....Ranger also makes UTEE)
http://www.rangerink.com/product_glossyaccents.html
...use to accent, brighten, dimensionalize, and magnify areas
see acrylic paint idea in pre-Colored Resins
UTEE
.... (Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel)... a clear, meltable embossing powder
...
finished surface will scratch in abrasive situations though
(see more in Powders
> Embossing, or in Finishes >
UTEE)
see Faux--many > Water/Glassy/Bubbles for more on these materials.... plus other ways to simulate water and bubbles
see also Finishes > Other Liquid Finishes ...White Glues....for other clear finishes to use on clay
other MELTABLE & CASTABLE plastics
plastic
fishing worms (thermoplastic?) ....I read an article in a model railroad
magazine, about 20 years ago, about using plastic worm fishing lures
as a casting material.
....he melted the plastic worms in
the top of a double boiler
... then poured it into a mold
(don't remember what kind). ...and let it cool until it was solid.
...the
final casting was as soft and squiggly as the original
worm
...these worms come in loads of colors!
Creepy
Crawlers sets, and their ilk??
plastic
army men work the same way (though will cool hard). As a
kid I used to melt them all the time. Seth
... can also make bowls from
these by heating them only enough to slump, not melting them completely (over
a form)
old vinyl records can
be slumpted over forms when heated at low temps, to make bowls, etc.
toothbrushes
(can remove bristles with pliers first... dip in boiling water)
(for
melting, slumping or softening other plastics, see much more in
Misc. > Melting
or Softening Plastics > Slumping)
(for
meltable plastics esp. for making molds, see Molds
> Other Materials for Molds > Reusables --Protoplast,
Gelflex, etc.)
....(same?) the Dick Blick catalog
used to sell a different kind of "cold" enamel -- it was
a plastic powder that you handled like copper enamels (swirling
tools, cloissone, etc.) but it melted at light-bulb heat (for
little kids)... wonder if that stuff is still made?
(for "shrinking" plastics such as disposable clear flexible plastic cups and salad tray lids...and foam cups... and prescription bottles, see Misc > Shrink Plastics)
for clear, one-part "floral setting resins"(all really resins??) which can be melted in hot water or some don't need heating, then poured into containers (will set as cool, but stay somewhat soft)... can be removed and re-used, see Scenic Water & Wonder Water above
(for plastics which can be covered with clay and baked, see Covering > Plastics)
GLASS PAINTS ......& "Dip It" simulations
Gallery
glass is a paint for glass to make it look like "stained glass".....it's
usually used on windows, or glass vases, or on anything glass (or
acetate?)... works well on metal too??
.... when these paints
are used on acrylic, they can become
permanent. rainee (...would be permanent on clay then?)
....Gallery
Glass is made with a clear waterbased acrylic --just like acrylic paint,
except that instead of adding pigment, I believe dyes are
used for color. .........once dry, very flexible ... the
transparency of the finished product depends on how thick
(the paint is). rainee
....Gallery Glass is basically peel & stick
plastic (think Colorforms --remember those?). I don't think it would do
well with PC in long term applications, but it's pretty neat stuff for windows!
Petunia D
....I made a fairy princess sitting by a pool. I covered the parts
of a mirror I wanted to be grass, and made a shoreline with clay....the
mirror served as a strong base for the entire sculpture and reflective surface
for the pond. ....After all baking was done I used the glass paints (GalleryGlass)
in shades of translucent , white and blues to make ripples and the pond
color I wanted. It turned out very well... I also made a few lily pads and
a frog to sit on them (just Sobo glued those to the pond).Sharon V.
...(see
also Pretty Petals just below for using these in a kit with wire
to create flowers, etc. .... a little like the old "Dip It")
Delta
Paint Jewels paints. . .. "the only paint that offers 21 glossy,
transparent colors that look like they are lit from within... no other paint
like it. ...creates a glass like look to a wide range of non-glass surfaces...wood,
paper, paper mache, metals, etc. ...applied directly from the bottle which
is offered with a needle nosed tip ..or with a brush."
....Maybe you could
dip a baked bead into this paint and it will give the look of an
encased bead.
...Or you could make the raised designs as well since
the bottle comes in the small tip. Amanda
(Paint
Jewel Liquid Lead – pewter, gold and white... squeezable bottle
with a needle nosed tip ...can be used with Paint Jewel colors to create Stained
Glass inspired look.)
http://www.deltacrafts.com/Paint/PaintJewels/
and http://www.deltacrafts.com/Projects/Paint/PaintJewels/
(proj's)
There's another product called Porcelain which is glass paints. ....You bake it to make it permanent and water proof. Since it bakes up at the same temp as poly clay, I gave it whirl on some scrap pieces, and got a nice cloisonne effect.
Dip I Fantasy Film (or Formafilm).... vs......UTEE....vs.... Pretty PetalsScented Flower Maker
There was a
dippable liquid plastic film in the 70's called Dip It
.... wire forms were dipped into cans of the colors which dried quickly and created
transparent, colored flowers (and other shapes)..
...After
researching its availability nowadays, the bottom line seems to be that it seems
not to be sold in the U.S. any longer
(probably because of safety standards for carcinogenicity)
. . . It is sold in the U.K. , however, (they may have a less
rigid standard) and is called Dip It Fantasy Film or Formafilm
..... could
be ordered from the U.K. if you REALLY want it though? ...no, Desiree' said the
UK dealer she checked shipped anywhere in the world
BUT the U.S. and Canada.
This
lesson using Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel (UTEE... a clear embossing
powder from Suze Weinberg) tinted with inks** looks like it does pretty much the
same thing as the old Dip It (..22 ga. wire shapes are dipped into the UTEE in
a "hot pot")... but don't know how strong the
resulting items would be:
http://www.bfranklincrafts.com/CraftIdea-PoinsettaPin.html
**(To
Dye For inks are transparent dye inks ---" totally safe to be heated
in the Melting Pot...1-3 droplets into your hot melted UTEE and will turn Clear
Ultra Thick into stained glass")
--Aristocrat's Liquid Glass is another brand of thick clear embossing powder
...however,
embossing powder does not stand up well to use
(it scratches easily, and will
flake or peel off sometimes) so
it may be a good idea to give them a layer of clear finish to strengthen them?
...lesson:
shape wire into loops or any shape... melt clear Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel
in Melting Pot and add To Dye For Inks to desired color...dip wire shapes into
melted UTEE (spin over pot until cool)...(they glue the dipped shapes to a flat
marble --to hold them together?)...can add glitter as stamens, etc. to centers
... let dry.
(not
available in the US or Canada)....here are some pages for the Dip
It Fantasy Film (...twist 26 g. wire into loop... dip into liquid (including
the twisted wire at bottom) ... let excess run off (don't touch film itself)...
let dry 10-15 min.):
http://1stforcrafts.com/
and http://www.assistireland.ie/index.asp?locID=1031&docID=2447
(.. though none may ship
to the U.S. or Canada
......I
used Dip-it Fantasy Film in the 70's. I always assumed it was something like polystyrene
which was coloured and dissolved in a volatile solvent such as
toluene (or a toluene/xylene mixture) ...the
drying time was very fast indeed (the solvent's volatility also made it hard to
keep over time) .... I suspect that the formulation has had to be changed in light
of more recent solvent carcinogenicity findings....
Also, as I understand it, the US's household and industrial product codes are
rather more strict that most other OECD toxicity guidelines. ... .factory
standards of tox hygene are set higher in the US than in Europe. Alan V.
There is another product which is sold in the U.S. called Pretty
Petals Scented Flower Maker (by Plaid) which seems to be similar
(at least the photo on the front of the kit seems to be the same). But from what
I can tell it's not the same... it's not
dipped, and it takes hours to dry. DB
.......(for
the Pretty Petals) instead of dipping the shaped wire, you shape your wire
in one of their petal or leaf molds, and then pour Gallery
Glass (a brand of transparent paints) in the mold with the wire ... let
them dry over night before peeling them out of the molds. I have this kit and
it works really well. rainee
... the Pretty Petals kit may be at Walmart or
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000JB75/002-8346260-1060030
or D & J Hobby's online store
http://www.djhobby.com/cgi-bin/indexpage.pl?http://www.djhobby.com/catalog/c-kidssupplies/NATSCI.html
(NSI19591, $2.49)
.....more information? http://www.epinions.com/Natural_Science_Industries_Pretty_Petals_Flower_Maker_Craft_Kit_Toys/display_~full_specs
I'm not sure anything
water or low volatility-based would do the
same job as old Dip-it. ...presumably, the film, bubble, etc, needs to dry
relatively quickly in order for a thin membrane to stabilise AND allow light
through.( I have done some experiments which involved PVA glue and isopropanol
- the resultant mess couldn't be used as a dipping medium)
.....The best
substitute I can suggest might be the material which is sold in novelty shops
as DIY balloons - it comes in a tube (like toothpaste) in lots of
colours with a small pipe or straw which one uses to inflate a globule of the
stuff, so instead of being allowed to dry as a balloon, it could be attached to
a wire loop while it's still fresh, pliable and still has some solvent still in
it. Alan V.
.
...other possibilities??:
...Gallery
Glass (paints--see above for more on Gallery Glass and other paints
to be used on glass)
....gelatin flowers on wires.......mix 1/4 cup
water with 2 teaspoons plain gelatin. Add color if desired. Form a 'wing' frame
from very fine wire & twist it together to
close/shape it, dip the wire into the gelatin like blowing bubbles. Be sure it
is covered. Bring it out and let the wing dry thoroughly then remove the wire
frame
...would using colorants in polyurethane work? (strong
enough?)
...tinted liquid clays?
...you
might be able to concoct your own transparent or at least translucent
film using clear-drying craft glues ("white" glues?) tinted with acrylic
paints... or maybe just acrylic paints thinned with water or clear
mediums.
.......fabric paints already have a clear "medium"
in them which may make them work better or worse than ordinary craft acrylics?
...clear
artists' mediums with inks or other dyes?
Have no idea
though if any of those would be dippable, and retain enough strength to dry intact,
plus be relatively transparent. Diane B.
(....see also the Wings sub-category
in Sculpting-Bodies for more possibilities?)
(see also fiber optic strands, below)
many
other casting mediums (info, etc.)
http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/us.html
As
for crackle mediums brands, I've tried them all. For me they only work
on flat surfaces, not rounded. (drat!)
Sometimes I only use one
of the two parts (part 2) (they all come in two parts as far as I know) which
works pretty well (the first part is simply a paint for the "base" color
or a clear layer). To do this, you just coat the surface of your piece with the
second or crackle part and let it dry for a day or two. The medium dries clear
so you can see the surface of your piece through it. Cracks on the surface don't
always appear right away. And even then you may not be able to see them much.
But then you can antique the surface, rubbing in dark acrylic paint like
Burnt Umber, and then rubbing it off, leaving it in the cracks. The cracks will
now show up quite well.
However, not all of the crackle mediums will
work this way and you must use both parts for those.
I've found all
the brands are fickle, first working , then not working, then working again.
I honestly don't know the secret unless it's the weather, or temperature. I'm
still doing some research and hope to get a technique down that will be more steady.
I love the effect no matter. Dotty
....And the crackle was done with Anita's
Fragile Crackle. I bought some of Aileen's crackle medium and
found it worthless, frankly. Anita's is a two part application, but really easy.
Then I diluted some acrylic paint with water and did a few brushonwipeoff
(that fast!) passes until it took the way I wanted it. Kelly K
. . . The first
part of Anita's is clear. The second is sort of milky, like thickened skim milk,
but it dries clear and crackley. . . . My experiment was to use Future
instead of part 1. Didn't do all that well...not what I wanted...Varathane
didn't do anything at all. . . they must each have something that reacts with
the other. Kelly K
wet media acetate
is a clear acetate film which is made to accept all water-based media
....you
can paint it, dye it, or draw on it with water based products
...it
can also be impressed with a ball stylus ......available at art
and craft stores
...it's good for making wings, leaves, fish
and mermaid fins, etc..Katherine Dewey
(see
more on using wet media acetate in Sculpting-Body
> Wings > not polymer)
"shrink
plastics" (PolyShrink, etc.) (loads of great photos, ideas & *lessons
at http://www.luckysquirrel.com which
are very compatible with clay and can even look like clay since they can use Pearl
Ex, waxes, stamped relief, etc.)
. . . already-shrunk Shrink Plastics can
be baked with polymer clay; the low temp. of polymer baking won't affect the SP.
Treat pieces of SP the same way you would any other addition after baking --that
is, unless the piece is mechanically held, pop it off and glue back on.
general
instructions: http://www.luckysquirrel.com/geninstructions.html#anchor1124156
...actually
most of that clear plastic on everything from graham cracker crusts to even yogurt
containers might shrink when heated
...the plastic has to be the somewhat heavier
type, but soooo much stuff is packaged in it now, and it all seems to work. trashcrafter
.... I only use the heatgun to shrink all my plastics since ...in the
oven, sometimes it would not uncurl or would have lumps and bubbles in
it that no amount of reheating would get out.
I took a class one time where we cut small shapes from the Friendly Plastic and baked them directly on to the polymer clay. We made light switch plates and they were really cool. Jeanette
Fishing line (how to dye) -how did you do that?? . . .just dyed fishing line,,using rit dye and a little vinagar . . . ( colored monafilament wrapped tightly around fan like shapes). . . .. I just dunked the line into the hot colored water and it took the color right away,,couldn't believe it! I unwound some from the spool, dyed it,rinsed, then rewound onto another spool. Georgana (see more in Pendants-Cording > Clear Plastic, dyeing)
HydroSpan can be
used to enlarge any 3-D object (a sculpt, mold, pattern, real
world object, etc.) you can create a mold for; it can be increased
in size (repeatedly, by 60%, if you wish) ... two-part urethane polymer
which will expand 60% (or x1.6) after soaking in water, so ... working
life =10 min, full cure = 24 hr . . . feels dry to the touch even if cut... "simply
make silicone (or polymer clay?) molds from small objects and directly enlarge
them. . .
....a flexible urethane polymer, which over time absorbs individual
molecules of water deep into itself until it is completely saturated....as water
is absorbed the polymer matrix stretches to accommodate the in coming water ...
Hardness of cured HydroSpan (before soaking) =45 Shore A, hardness of expanded
HydroSpan (after soaking for 14 days @ 72°) =35 Shore A."
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/water_abs_expanding_urethanes.html
Industrial Polymers Incorporated
. . many molding compounds (spray, etc.), and more
....Speedliner,
Rigid Casting Urethanes, Semi-Rigid Casting Urethanes, Transparent Casting Compounds,
Molding Compounds, Brush-on Molding Gels, Coatings & Sealants, StyroSpray, Hard
Coatings, Primers, Expanding Urethanes, Clear Elegance (fake water)
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/
Armour-Etch. I use it to make frosted votives and glasses with my own designs that I cut from contact paper. Works quite well.....but the frosting is light and smooth and you will not get the beautiful deep etch that you find on beach glass, but close. Etching is enormous fun. Peggy
I use the largest size of hex nuts from the hardware store. They are sold in the industrial nuts and bolts section. They are hexagon shape and measure 1.6" x 0.9". Weighing in at over 6 oz. apiece, they would make good paperweights or Things-TO-DO weights .
And to make rain drops or icicles, many eggers use silicone sealant. The kind that you use to seal around the bathtub. It comes either white or clear in a squeeze bottle.
You might also try Aleene's "OK To WASH-IT". It's a fabric glue, but unlike Fray-Chek, it doesn't settle into the fabric. It dries clear and blobby.
I don't know if Michaels would have it at this time of the year, but when you make those christmas villages, they have a product that is sorta like foam that you use for snow, you spray it on, and then it sets, it's matt white and then if you like you can sprinkle the very very fine glitter powder on it for a very subtle effect.
syndee holt put candle
gel in a glass base with little polymer clay pieces, and then put a
floating-type candle on top of the gel (in the Spring issue of "Michael's
Create") ... Jules
...beware of the gel candles ...they burn alot
hotter than wax candles, and will shatter
the glass container if it's too thin.
I actually had one explode and glass when shooting out all over.... I still like
them but I make sure the container is made of heavy glass.... Gel candles
tend to smoke more too. Susan
(
puppetry of all kinds) & various building & molding materials
http://www.aracnet.net/~props/recipes.html#rec2
MAGNETS ...& magnet sheets, strips
Many clay
beads, and pieces of flatter clay as well, can
be turned into magnets
...probably not a good idea to use a weak
clay like Sculpey or FimoSoft for magnets though, unless the clay
is thick with no protrusions
Remember!... magnets
will stick only to iron-based metal surfaces
...... steel ......cast iron ....ball bearings
.... (they will
not stick to metal made from aluminum
...like cookie
sheets, etc.)
Of course, KEEP ALL MAGNETS AWAY FROM computers, magnetically recorded tapes, disks, and credit cards
types & suppliers
There are several types of magnets we might be interested
in:
..rare earth magnets (or supermagnets) --newer generation is
NdFeB (Neodymium-Iron-Boron) --older generation is SmCo (Samarium
Cobalt)
.....very strong, and not too expensive ...not available
in craft of hobby stores? (still?) ...see below for ordering online
though
.....rare earth magnets even when tiny are freakishly
strong (you can do all sorts of fun things with them... once at a party we stuck
one to a nail in the celing, then hung my entire set of cutlery from it) cottoncandymandy
..ferrite (or "hard ceramic") magnets
......can buy in
several strengths... the stronger they are, the more they usually cost ...usually
less expensive than rare earth magnets
......can buy in craft and hobby stores,
Radio Shack, hardware stores? ... or online
..bonded (flexible, rubberized)
magnet sheets and strips ... adhesive on back
(ferrite and rare earth magnets are somewhat brittle alone and could be chipped, so some are covered with steel, etc., to make stronger)
SUPPLIERs:
Lee Valley .. rare earth magnets in
various shapes and sizes
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=32065&cat=3,42363,42348&ap=1
(these are sandwiched between 2 pieces of steel for extra strength bec. can be
somewhat brittle)
... a 1/4" dia. by 1/10" thick one of
these, for example, will lift a 2 1/2 lb block of steel ...(this size 30-40 cents
ea.)
(all Lee Valley magnets http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&cat=3&p=42363
)
attaching clay, etc.
especially for small
magnets, you might want to make a depression in the raw clay which
will the magnet will sit in after baking
... this will provide more of a mechanical
hold than glue alone, and will also make the magnet lie flattter on
the metal surface
(...however, you may not want to make the magnet completely
flat to the clay surface because many shapes will be hard to get
a grip on to pull off (some may be grippable even when flat though,
depending on the shape of the clay)
.....the depression can be created by pressing/twisting
the magnet (or something of a similar size) into the raw clay (or by digging
out a hole)
.....or forming the clay around the magnet, then
removing it
.... or by creating the hole in another way such as stacking layers
of clay, one or two of which have a hole cut out
........or attach another
material as a backing around the hole (e.g., sheet of felt with hole, etc.)
glues
---2-part epoxy glues are probably most secure
---or possibly
E-6000
---in my experience cyanoacrylate glues
work fine on clay (& magnets), particularly cyanoacrylate pastes ("superglue
gels," with fillers) ..author?
aside from gluing, to attach a magnet to materials which are not iron or steel (wood, e.g.), you can attach metal hardware like screws, nuts, wire, etc., to them by screwing, taping, or wrapping
(for info on baking
magnets with the clay, see below in More Magnet Info)
lessons, examples ... places to use magnets
various
(clay) magnets from PCC's Claypen
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/claypen_magnets.html
Margi L's magnet-backed figures or simple pictures,for
frig? ... coloring-book style
...each Skinner blend sheet
component surrounded by thin line of black (created on backing sheets as onlay,
then trimmed?)
http://www.studiocrafts.com/Products/Lm/pcmagnets.html
Kim Cavender's could-be
magnets, made with colorful onlays (cane slices and other pieces)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kimcavender/2236450927
Lisa's lesson on making
a frig. magnet by cutting a hole big enough for a button magnet
in the layers of a double-thick clay sheet, then supergluing
the magnet in the hole onto an onlaid clay sheet of
a transfer or other design
http://pcpolyzine.com/0204april/favors.html
teacher's whiteboards (xmas or end of year gift?)
....my
magnets for DS's teacher, using items relevant to their classroom
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB/early-polymer/8ef4.jpg
(upper right)
other places to
use:
...refrigerator ..freezer... dishwasher
...metal
filing cabinets
...make hangers for
metal surfaces
......cutlery, or skillets/pots... hooks or "towel bars"
...attach containers (like boxes)
to a metal suface
...attach things to outsides of cars
... while
camping,e.g., wet clothes or a tarp
...attaching
outdoor xmas lights to metal gutters
Margi
L's clock with various rearrangeable
clay units (magnet backed)
--sheets
of collage, cut into abstract shapes for
each of the 12 number spots ...
the central time mechanism is also covered with abstract clay and magnet
backed (magnet sheet or solid?)
http://www.studiocrafts.com/Products/Lm/clock1.html
could cover
a magnet with decorative clay to use as:
...a magnetic pin "cushion"
like those sold to sewers (use large magnet, or many smaller ones)
...or
cover a handle for a magnet pin picker-upper, or other use
clasps
...
for necklace, bracelet (see Jewelry)
...
for other things like boxes, books, blade holders,
etc.... anything with a lid or cover
.... or just to hold
something in place
... for faux "pin backs", belt
clips, "curtain" rod holders,. frig. knobs
(rare earth magnets sold in various shapes for these items).
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&cat=3&p=42363
incentive board for my kids (like a motivation chart or progress
chart)
...every year we make movable figures from clay on magnets,
then put them on a painted metal whiteboard (special ed, elementary
students)
.....they first make a little clay
skater figure (I love the different hairstyles,
hats, scarves the kids put on them)... then put a magnet
on back
.....then they get to move their figure around the ("Skateboard
Park" track) --one segment for every day their assignment
is completed or that they come to class on time, etc. (also, they get
to choose a prize out of the prize box when they get to segment #14 )
...I
painted the Skateboard Park background with straight tempera
on a 3x4' metal whiteboard
......actually I painted on the
BACK of the white board, since the magnets stick
better on the back side (back is metal with a matte finish).
.......oh and thanks for the reminder about the liquid soap (helping
paint stick on waxed milk cartons) -- I'd forgotten about that one! Will use it
for sure when I do any repainting. .. last year I had no problem with chipping,
but this year there has been a little. ...the magnets do not often come in contact
with the painted areas (?)
....then each year I paint a new picture,
after washing off the old one. LynnDel
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/0302february.pdf
(click on "Skateboard Park" from
2nd page)
Mark
Sawicki's pointing-hand and arm frig or whiteboard magnet ...(to
point to important notes)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_figures/article/0,1789,HGTV_3237_3893971,00.html
...twists 8" of 1/16" dia aluminum or copper wire, and bends a little
of the bottom 90°
...stands the bent end on a strong 1" x 1/8" magnet,
then creates a base around it (he uses steel epoxy--see notes)
...bends
the arm to create an elbow (or perhaps bends after next step, carefully)
...makes
a long pad of clay brown clay, with flesh-colored clay at end for hand, then wraps
around the wire (and base) (he uses Bend and Bake clay--see notes) ...forms
3-fingered cartoon hand by pulling and shaping... adds white cuff and black cufflink
...bends
thumb and two fingers back into palm, leaving index finger pointing and up...
bakes
..NOTES: ...when he says "tubes" of clay, he means logs/rods/ropes
of solid clay
...using a very flexible clay doesn't seem
necessary for these as long as you don't want to bend any of the clay parts after
baking ...Bend and Bake clay is fine to use, but could also use Premo, or FimoClassic
or Kato (not Sculpey, SuperSculpey, Sculpey III, or FimoSoft though because they're
more brittle clays and will break if thin like this and stressed)
...don't
think it's really necessary to use 2 pt steel epoxy for the base and around
the magnet; bending the end of the twisted wire, then capturing most of the magnet
as well as a good length of the bent-twisted wire with regular polymer clay
should be sufficient to hold everything well (tip: may want to remove magnet before
baking, then glue it back in afterward)
Garie's many magnetic
devices for motion toys, etc. http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/magnetics.htm
...Garie's
Humpty Dumpty figure on a wall (as a bas relief scene) ... Humpty is made
up of component parts which fit together by hidden magnets... when
he falls, he "breaks" apart http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/humpty.htm
...Garie
also has one waterglobe which allows movement of the figure
inside (a fish) because it's on a long flexible spring, and also
has a tiny magnet in its mouth (which can be affected by waving another
magnet outside the globe)
(see my magnet bug toy in Kids > Toys... a clay or other "bug" with a magnet underneath is moved down a path drawn on cardstock by kid, by moving another magnet around underneath ...for practicing fine motor skills as well as entertainment)
could make double ended magnets (with clay to hold them apart) so would attract on each end?
many more
clever ideas for using rare earth magnets
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40077&cat=3,42363#9
flexible magnet sheets & strips
magnet "sheets," and strips on a roll,
are rubbery and flexible and have an adhesive back, so a layer of baked
polymer clay could be adhered to them
.......aka "bonded magnets"
(flexible)-- rubberized formulation of magnet, often seen on refrigerators and
magnetic signs
....sheet magnets are much weaker
than ferrite or rare earth magnets though
could be used for small frames
for the frig... gifts... postcards... games, etc
....available
at office supply stores, or craft? stores, or hardware stores
... business
card size sheets, adhesive backed ....25 for $6-7 at Office Depot
would
a sheet of baked polymer clay (attached to a magnet sheet) be erasable
when written on with erasable markers intended for whiteboards?...especially
if the clay surface is very slick from having been baked face down on glass?
...if
so, could use as a memo pad or grocery list on frig... DB
could
stamp with Fabrico inks, then bake, for permanent decoration which won't erase
some
special magnet sheets can even be run through your inkjet printer....
$11 for 3 sheets (8 1/2 x 11)
http://www.staples.com/Catalog/Browse/SKU.asp?BCFlag=False&PageType=1&SKU=AVE3270
....regular magnet
sheets do NOT go through your printer though
........however,
a printed sheet of paper can be always pressed
to the back of the magnet sheet after the release paper on the magnet sheet is
removed
other magnet-related stuff:
BAKING magnets???
...it suddenly occured
to me that the heat or baking process MIGHT demagnetize
(magnets) ...DH says that a critical limit of heat will suddenly cause a magnet
to lose its magnetization; he doesn't know how high that temp is though.
.... The particular magnetized material seems to make a difference too, with the
regular hard ceramic magnets standing up longer than
the magnetized steel pointers which would be in compasses.
...How
does temperature affect the behavior of a permanent magnet?
......Curie
Temperature (Tc) is the temperature at which a magnet material loses
it's strength, permanently.
......another useful number (if available)
is Tmax, the recommended maximum operating temperature (around
266 deg. F for most NdFeB magnets)... higher than that, a magnet will
start to lose its power
..If you need strong magnets
that can be used at high temps, consider using Samarium Cobalt (SmCo)
magnets
..First test:
placed in the oven and left for two hours at 300 degrees.
Allowed to cool in the oven and when removed,. All magnets "jumped" or showed
the same attraction as before baked
..Second test, I baked another
set of the same type of magnets for two hours at 550 degrees . .The
Mangelsen's magnets showed exactly the same strength as before baking,
however the no-brand China magnets had to now be less than 1/2" from a
metal source or another magnet before they moved.
..the ferrite magnet
can be baked in the oven at 300 F; embedded?
in the polymer clay is not a problem.
....I have already tested the rubber
magnets (sheets?) and have found that with heating to clay curing temperatures,
the magnets completely lose their attraction.
...
My DH says you might want to try aligning the magnets with Earth's magnetic
North and South Poles while exposing these magnets to any changes
in temp. (baking & cooling?). This may have the effect of strengthening
or weakening the magnetic force of the magnets....
if the magnet was weakened, try another magnet in the reverse direction while
exposing it to the same exact conditions
.... Heat does strange things to iron
and it's derivatives such as steel with regards to realignment of molecular patterns.....so
some experimentation may be in order.... to align these magnets with the Earth's
magnetic forces, use a simple navigational compass outside
the oven to determine proper direction.
Ferrofluid (magnet
liquid).... the only known material in which magnetism and fluidity coexist....
weird stuff
...magnet "viewing film"
(makes magnetism patterns visible) http://www.wondermagnet.com/viewingfilm.html
more info, etc. on magnets: http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&cat=3&p=42363&ap=1
Magnifying lenses (or magnifying glasses)
could be used in several ways with polymer clay:
...some come with blank
handles which can be covered with decorative clay
......or some regular
handles could be covered, or otherwise embellished
...the lenses alone
could be framed with clay, and hung as pendants by adding a hole, bail
or other way to attach cording (as substitute for reading glassses, or for kids
or other's scietific purposes)
These places have (or at least used to have)
some magnifying glasses with blank handles which can be embellished, etc.:
http://www.polymerclayprojects.com
http://www.artcraftworld.com/pclay.htm
For other complete magnifying glasses, check out garage sales, thrift
shops, etc, or even Target, office supply stores, drugstores,
etc.
....then cover the handle and/or frame, or remove one or both before making
a decorative frame for it
For single magnifying lenses, the scientific
supply sites often have them, or perhaps teacher supply stores:
http://scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3037787
http://scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3040414
http://scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3082272
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=21&category=188
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?category=193
There are also round magnifying lenses (each surrounded by in a small a black metal frame, in various magnification strengths) at camera supply shops (or online) as individual (or sets of) "close-up filters" --they'll come in various diameters for different cameras.
I also may use individual lenses out of
my old non-bifocal reading glasses
--glass is best, but plastic
lenses may work at our oven temps too since they're "medical plastics"
(see also "leashes" for reading glasses in
Jewelry > Leashes)
For plastics that can't be
baked (lens itself and/or handle), you could always form the clay
frame on the lens... remove it to bake ...then glue
back to the lens or handle later.
glass
pebbles or hemispheres (or plastic ones) will also magnify
(get at craft stores, plastics stores, etc.)
....Celadonia's framed
glass pebbles (onlaid leaves, etc.) used as pendants
... could
easily have image behind (attached with thin Goop glue) which would magnify
it ... many with faux metal frames
http://www.celidonia.it/English/fairies_treasures.htm
(see more on glass or acyrlic pebbles and hemispheres, in Misc > Marbles >Pebbles & also Aquarium Beads)
http://www.nanosite.com/confab/c-loupes.html
(only sell completed ones though?)
…cut
the fiberoptic strands up with scissors into half inch pieces ...
make a cone out of heavy paper, poke holes where you wanted the lights, stuck
the hunks through the heavy paper (manilla folder), glued the hunks with a hot
glue gun, then painted the tips with colored stained glass paint. ....then
the cone was covered with a dried plant material that resembles pine boughs. ("Princess
Pine" a type of club moss, actually.) A night light bulb on a cord with
a toggle switch
. . . I THINK I have seen the fiber optic ... cable? ... whatever
in the American Science and Surplus catalog, which is also online,
remember. I am seeing really weird sci-fi Christmas tree ornaments in my
head – hollow forms with points of light that fasten over the string
of light.
And so does Edmund Scientific. I've been meaning to
get back to this and order some stuff-They have glass fiber optic strands for
something like $54. There was also a beginners book about fiber optics
that looked interesting.
.... You have to be careful not to put a
kink in an optical fiber, or it won't pass the light as effectively
....
My brother has a clock face done in fake mother-of-pearl on black, and
under that is a recess with color-changing fiber optic flowers ...I
have a couple extra of the flowers that are in those boxes. We got them when we
were in the Phillipines. . . .stopped working but the color wheel and turntable
still work. . .
....If you cut the fiber, glass or plastic, to
length, you need to polish the ends to get the best light - you
do this by putting a drop of metal polish on a piece of glass or plastic,
and rubbing the end on it, then doing the same with a drop of jeweller's rouge...
LEDs
...definition of LED's (click on "concept") .... and
LED art... by James Lehman
http://www.akrobiz.com/led/gallery_index.html
(click on each photo for many more photos)
Alexandra's
Halloween garden scene using 31 LED's and 5 small bulbs in various
ways ("after a pretty steep learning curve and crash course in soldering!")
http://www.alexandrablythe.co.uk/garden.htm
Even
ultraviolet emitting LEDs have become available now, and are reasonably
priced
....a combination of glow in the dark or fluorescent
(or bleached Premo) clay together with UV LEDs can be spectacular in all
kinds if circumstances
... LEDs have a very narrow viewing
angle (all their light is directed forward within a cone of, say, 15 degrees)...
these are perfect for (the ends of) fibre optic strands, but if
they are used 'directly' in clay, some light-scattering agent such
as a pearl clay should be mixed into the translucent.
.....If
one needs to transmit the light into an object, the best method is to use
fibre optic cable. This cable is simply flexible glass or plastic rod
whose refractory characteristics are chosen so that any light which enters
one end of the rod is reflected by the walls down the length of the
cable (and appears only at the cut end)
.......using this cable, light may
be carried to another location within a mini-scene, (e.g. a lamp
or fireplace), or into an ornament or item of jewellery. The cable
is quite flexible and can even be bent around corners.
.....I have found that
the best means of attaching LEDs to the end of fibre-optic cable
is to use heat shrink tubing ... this is pushed over the LED and the end
of the cable, and heated gently.
... LEDs are made in a variety of shapes
and sizes. A very low voltage, (typically 1.7-2.5 volts), may be used to light
the standard device. Sadly, a single alkaline cell
has slightly less voltage than that required, and two in
series are too high.... Another fact, which must be remembered, is that
all LEDs must be connected to the power source in a particular
way. Their leads have different lengths, (normally the longer lead
must be connected to the positive side of the battery). A resistor is used in
series with the LED to reduce the battery voltage to the appropriate level, (i.e.
the resistor is connected between the battery and the LED - like a daisy chain).
....neither glass nor plastic fiber optic cable
can withstand clay-curing temperatures
....most
standard LEDs (i.e. those without additional flasher chips
inside them), will withstand clay-curing temperatures.
....so,
one can make translucent clay shapes around the diodes... bake...
and then connect them to the power supply. Alan V.
....Alan
V's mini Tiffany lamp uses an LED (whole lesson in Covering
> Nightlights,Shields,Lamps)
http://groups.msn.com/ALANpolymer/polymerclaycanework.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=95
. . . . . the lamp's bulb is actually a 3mm high intensity white
LED which I've dipped into silicone sealant to make a diffuser
for the light (otherwise all the light goes directly upwards and doesn't really
illuminate the lamp shade evenly).
.....finally,
the whole unit is assembled and wired, and the parts either glued
or soldered together as appropriate ...Then add batteries and switch
on - hopefully there will be light! ...using 2 AAA batteries and
the high efficiency white LED, the life of the batteries is surprising
- about 6-10 days continuous light (which doesn't get yellower as
the batteries age as it would with a filament bulb). Alan
If
you want to see lights dotted along the fiber, not just at the end
of the fiber, you use a round file to cut little dips where
you want the light to show (and polish the dips).
fiber optic
fabric??
....could we embed this fabric with liquid clay,
or otherwise use it somehow?? Diane B.
http://paintwithlights.safeshopper.com/525/cat525.htm
.......Yes - I'm sure we could embed these types of fibreoptics in liquid
clay, but I think the sorts that are used for these kinds of things are specially
designed optical strands which scatter their light down their lengths,
rather than the approaching 100% transmission required
by most users (?). From what I read, the strands are plastic which have
been purposely 'thumped', heated or otherwise distorted all the way along their
length so that the light spills out at the damage points. Alan V.
Hypertufa
is a mixture which when dry simulates old, rugged stone (or even smooth
concrete)
... is much lighter in weight
... fairly easy
to make
....can be hand-shaped or molded, etc., into many small
to large shapes to create all kinds of things
....can be carved,
and filed, etc.
one basic RECIPE :
.........peat
moss --2 parts (...sift through finger to remove all lumps)
.........sand,
vermiculite, or perlite --1 part
.........portland cement --1 part
.........water
--1 part ...mix
Then rough-shape, or mold... wait 3-4 hrs if want to "carve"...
allow week to cure fully before using
Tufa items can be many sizes (small to quite large), and all shapes (though no really intricate or fine detail is possible)
...armatures
of various kinds can be used as shapers underneath to make hollow forms
(wire mesh, PVC pipe, etc.)
...hypertufa can be cast in or on "molds"
and forms of all kinds and sizes --from bowls and boxes and planters to
Halloween masks, rubber molds (homemade also) and molds you make or build or holes
dug in the ground, etc.
....releases are necessary for many molds (plastic
wrap or plastic bag, or oily things like Vaseline, veg, oil, mineral
oil --oily ones all will disappear with a few weeks outdoors)
http://www.the-artistic-garden.com/hypertufa-mold-preparation.html
SOME
POSSIBLE ITEMS to make:
...outdoors (or porch) --planters, containers
of any kind, simple sculptures, pavers, birdbaths, fountains, benches, short single-pedastal
"mushroom" tables for kids, "Japanese lanterns," etc.
...indoors --lamp
bases, planters, table tops?, sculptures, wall pieces (bas relief on plaque),
tiles, etc.
baked polymer clay pieces could also be inlaid in it
for mosaics or other embellishment
....http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLC,GGLC:1969-53,GGLC:en&q=hypertufa+mosaic
....fence
planters (hemispheres), with inlaid mosaic detail
http://www.birminghamartwalk.com/Artwalk/2004/Artists2004/MelanieColvin.3.jpg
...small
hypertufa eggs, covered with glass mosaic
http://www.gardenstew.com/blog/e540-13-hypertufa-eggs.html
more photos of various hypertufa creations
from Google's Image Search:
http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLC,GGLC:1969-53,GGLC:en&q=hypertufa
OR: http://tinyurl.com/ov6zh
simple
lamp base http://kahl.zoovy.com/product/SBTL
outdoor bas relief sculpts on fence
http://community.webshots.com/photo/29167729/1029167729034013916gEIEVLKHLB
dimensional leaf http://www.hypertufabooks.com/images/tufa-leaf.jpg
a
tufa-making class (for elderly!)... making sm-med planters... could
even do with kids
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/pike/pictures/hypertufa.jpg
(gone)
basic lesson: http://www.efildoog-nz.com/hypertufa.htm
more lessons, uses, advantages: http://www.efildoog-nz.com/hypertufa.htm
more info and lessons
http://www.timpyworks.com/pamphlets/hypertufa-101/101.html
(click on on each set of lessons at bottom)
more
info, free lessons, and downloadable book:
http://www.the-artistic-garden.com/hypertufa-sculptures.html
info,
ideas, etc.
http://tinyurl.com/274o7v
lots of info & photos specifically regarding how to make hypertufas,
etc., at the Hypertufa Forum at the Garden Web website
...message threads
which have photos, and often info (scroll down and look
for an actual photo... or look for clickable "Image Link" or something similar---
both are usually in the first message)
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/hypertufa/nph-ind.cgi?type=gal&random=16466
...all messages http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/hypertufa
When casting (smooth) leaves I've used a mix 50-50 of portland
and sand (only)
... I didn't use reinforcement because
my largest leaf was only about 12 inches wide (otherwise I would have used some
aluminum screening). hummingbird3172
bethie's solid hypertufa faces
--created on a board with a wad of hypertufa, then features added with more hypertufa
...
many faces then mosaic-ed
http://www.gardenstew.com/about3431.html
OR
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/rick_beth/face.jpg
(add 2 or 3 --up to 7-- after "face" in url to see others)
to
make a surface smoother, wet a little of dry mix and rub all over, then
wipe off excess with cloth
...vermiculite will make more the final result pitted
can add more layers stick well if add wood glue to the dry ingredients to bond one layer to the next
if stepping stones or other items made with hypertufa will be subjected to a lot of stress, and need to be very strong, then you can use hyptertufa with concrete... place hypertufa in bottom 1/2" of mold (which will be the final top surface), then fill with concrete.... can also use strips of nylon sheeting or fibers between the two layers for even more strength
eventually moss and lichens may grow in the crevices of the rough-surface ones
You can embed (ungalvanized) steel nails, nuts, washers, bolts, etc. in your hypertufa objects and they will rust (into patterns, if you want). ... steel wool fibers mixed in (as a strenghtener or not) will rust like crazy! hummingbird3172
small
items of cement art
http://johanhagamanstudio.com/gallery/main.php
http://www.kemalexander.com
(see
also Other Cement Mixes like concrete, Quikcrete
in Outdoor Polymer > Rocks, rock, stone)
