All resins ....general
info.
Polyester Resins (2-pt)
Epoxy
Resins (2-pt)
...Hard-surface epoxy resins
........gen.
info
........brands (Liquid Glass, Envirotex
Lite, Ultra-Glo, etc)
........preparing
& mixing
........coloring + inclusions
+ fauxs
........applying -gen.info
+ bubbles, drips
........curing
........cutting,
drilling, sanding-shaping
........coating
(brushing on, dipping)
........casting
(in molds, cells...releases)
........making faux
water
........other ways to
use (mini-foods, tabletops,
..............stiffening, making containers,
snowglobes, etc.)
.........more technical info.
.......colored
resins, to buy ( "cold enamels," "epoxy enamels")
...Softer-surface
epoxy resins (floral resin -Acrylic Water, Liquid Illusion, etc.)
......one
part, reusable gels
...Epoxy Adhesives
(primarily used as adhesives)
Simulations
of resin (1 pt materials) --Future, Varathane, PolyGlaze, etc.
Other
meltable, castable plastics (plastic worms, Army men)
Glass
paints & Dip-It simulations
MISC.
... crackle, shrink plastic, etc.
Magnets
& magnet sheet
Magnifying lenses +
magnifying glasses
Fiberoptic strands
& LEDs
Hypertufa
"Non-Polymer
Clays" category has been moved to
Sculpting>Clays
"Other
Molding Materials" category has
been moved to
Molds
OTHER MATERIALS
RESINS
(2-part, synthetic
resins)
NOTE: All resins can
be dangerous if not handled
properly (particularly during manufacturing)
........polyester
('casting") resins are "more dangerous" in these
ways than are epoxy resins (see Polyester below)
...inhalation
... make sure there is sufficient ventilation so you won't inhale a
lot
...ingestion (getting in mouth or eating, etc.)
...skin
contact (including eyes, etc.)
If you feel you have any symptoms, or would
just like more info (doesn't need to be an emergency),
contact the Poison
Control Center at 1-800-222-1222
....about.com has more info on symptoms, etc.
http://adam.about.com/encyclopedia/firstaid/Plastic-resin-hardener-poisoning.htm
Casting
is the process of producing a part in a mold
... resins of various types
can be cast in molds, and some can be used to make molds as well..
definitions?
http://composite.about.com/library/glossary/p/bldef-p4161.htm
"SPECIFICATIONS" MSDS ADD
to subcategory list ...ADD to Table of Contents ...ADD water stuff/ponds to Houses
and Miniatures??
Do Finishes page ... (resins as finishes) and refer rest here
what are resins?...
what types are there?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin
...synthetic
resins are materials with similar properties to natural resins (thick
liquids from pine and other trees, which are also adhesive when they harden)
Resins are a thermosetting type of plastic rather than a thermoplastic type like polymer clay.
There are various types of resins
that artists sometimes use:
...epoxy.....polyester...
urethanes/polyurethane... acrylic**
......urethanes
--also called polyurethanes won't be covered here (they're 2-pt
"RTV" materials, which are not clear, smell terrible, and yield
a rubbery or foam material ... and all set up quickly?)
Re
the term acrylic resin,** I've read both that acrylic resins are
specific type which are "highly toxic," but also that acrylic resin
is just an overall name for the basic category synthetic resins
that includes epoxy and polyester ("casting") resins
. . . don't
know which is correct, but IMO it's better to refer to the specific type of resin
being referred to whever possible because their characteristics, saftey, and uses
are different.
epoxy
resins and polyester resins can both be used for casting and
coating, but they have different characteristics
that are important to understand to know which would be better for a specific
situation (see each below, for more)
clear
epoxy resins come in two forms crafters might use... one gives a
hard surface, and the other a softer surface
(used less often)
(...polyester
and epoxy resins are both used for fiberglass as well --versions of each
can be purchased for that use)
Some (most?) info contained in the Epoxy category below would also apply to polyester resins, so be sure to read that too.
All resins are flammable, I think, and prob. can't put out that fire with water (will make worse).
All
resins shrink a bit while curing (epoxies less than
polyesters) so this will mean that the resin will sink a
little in the middle, I think, and therefore may
"creep" up the sides of the container or mold a tad (around edges)
....if
using a mold, this can be sanded off if desired, or used as the back
side
....if using cells and depressions, will probably not be noticed
or look "normal" for what it may be imitating (water, etc.)
releases
or resists (for all resins?)
...waxes (pure carnauba ... beeswax?... Pledge) ...PVA release (poly vinyl alcohol).....masking
tape, clear tape ....modeling clay .... acrylic matte medium ... Armorall/ silicone
DB
put below somewhere
(for molds,
see below in Polyesters, and some in Epoxies)
Crystal
Clear 200, 202, & 204...(newer?) polyurethane resin ...clear..., with
diff. setting times (mix 1 to 1)
by Smooth-On .... designed for applications
that require absolute clarity. This product will cure at room temperature, but
a 150 ? post-cure will speed it up. The cured castings are UV stable (non-yellowing)
and can be pigmented using color dispersions.
....Poly 1410, bY Polytek?...A
two-component, water-clear, polyurethane casting system, formulated specifically
for applications where optical clarity is a must.
POLYESTER
resins
(sometimes called "casting
resins" since that's their main use)
These
come in 2 parts, but just a few drops of one part (the catalyst,
or activator or hardener) are added to the other part (the resin) ..not
mixed in equal parts
....the
number of drops required depends
on the thickness of the layer to be poured (if more than one)
Polyester
resins are called "thermosetting plastic resins" because heat
causes them to set up and cure (= polymerization), though they would do this on
their own in a year or two.... so a catalyst will speed up the curing time....
Polyesters
will completely cure
only in the absence of air (so areas of a cast exposed to air may not cure
thoroughly... see below)
Polyester resins are cheaper
than epoxy resins, create too much
heat for some polymer clays, and may need to be cast
bottom-up bec. of surface problems
These
will cast thicker depths of resin (compared to
epoxy resins) in a mold or in a dammed area
...(this is main advantage
besides price, and it's generally used in this way)
...but, could also be brushed
on, or poured on or over items, as with epoxies??
(see below, under Epoxy Resins)
safety
warnings:
.....
more "toxic" to work with than epoxy resins
(polyester resin itself is okay, but the substances which
make it work aren't (e.g., styrene, toluene, MEKP)
.....
serious consequences if
MEKP (catalyst) gets in eyes...(corrosion & possible
blindness) ...wear some kind of glasses!
.......use
ventilation (work in well ventilated area,
garage, etc) ....some people also use a mask also, but many don't... headaches
possible
.......keep off
skin (irritation) &
away from mouth... ..keep
away from food (may affect its taste)
.......not
to be used by children .... also
store away from children
MSDS
safety info: http://www.delviesplastics.com/pdf%20files/casting%20msds.pdf
....should
use (and store) at 65-75 degrees
...and at less than
60% humidity
....use
within 9-12 months
....do
not pour resin into sink
(will clog drain) ...do not pour mixed resin back
into can
...polyesters
really stink
("styrene odor")... much more than epoxies (...odor may
also remain in area and on cured resin, for
up to several weeks?)
...not quite
as much final strength as epoxies (but that may not matter to us)
...use
a disposable brush
and/or mixing tools
......but don't use waxed
cups (will retard curing), or Styrofoam
or clear plastic cups/materials, for polyester
resins
Curing of resin is caused when
heat is generated by the chemical reaction that takes place when
catalyst is added to resin.
... in my experience, the heat generated (by polyester
resin) can badly affect polymer clay (I've
had my clay develop marks and odd
coloration). Kathy Davis
(...epoxy resin doesn't get as hot....the
heat may not even be noticeable when using small amounts of epoxy).
The
deeper the layer to be poured, the fewer drops
of catalyst need to be added to the resin
...(e.g., for 1 oz.of resin...
1/8" depth requires 12-15 drops ....but for thicker layers
like 1 - 1 1/2" only 4 drops required)
The thicker the layer, less catalyst is needed... the thinner
the layer, more catalyst is needed
.....the label recipe is very conservative
in the drops of catalyst to be added.
...experimentation
is needed because using more layers will add to the total amount (of heat generated),
humidity diff's, etc.(and fewer drops are used for
certain plastic molds than others)
...too much
catalyst makes resin set faster, but also creates too
much heat
.......this can lead to fracturing of resin, or fading
of embedments ...or distortion of vinyl- or styrene-based plastic
molds
.........don't
cure (polyester) resin directly on Styrofoam-styrene...will
melt (...epoxy
resins would be ok tho)
...........(to
use Styrfoam as a "mold" for polyester, place plastic wrap on top, then
add resin.. peel off after curing. Judi)
...too
little catalyst will create a piece with a sticky
or tacky
final surface (but some is normal)
......One
thing we found in our diorama is that the resin surface remains slightly sticky,
and will attract dust (virtually impossible
to remove!)
.............I have heard this being said, but have never found
it to be true if you use the "correct" type
of resin. ...my resin water (epoxy prob.) is never sticky on top!
Sue
If the room your're
working in is below 65 degrees F,
it will slow down the curing.
...If the room is over
75 degrees F, it will accelerate the curing and may cause yellowing
and/or cracking.
Too
much colorant can slow or prevent proper curing.
FINAL-SURFACE
PROBLEMS:
This type of resin isn't
supposed to
"fully" cure while exposed
to air
...for some uses (to use as a "laminating" resin),
this can be an advantage because it allows every new layer to join to previous
one on a molecular level... also allows fiberglass to adhere to it, e.g.
...but
it also means that the topmost
surface
of the resin will need more work if
it will show (because it may not be clear enough, or may feel
tacky, and will have a rippled or bumpy texture)
not-fully-cured
surface (normal)
(the last surface
created may actually feel tacky or sticky
(but also may not feel tacky)....it may also be cloudy
or have a bumpy appearance...but the final surface
will need attention if it will show, regardless of which may be true)
BEFORE
CURING:
polyester resin needs to be deprived of
air to fully cure
....mylar
..cover the wet resin with 5 mil thick polyester film (Mylar)...
will impart a high gloss finish (with no further treatment)
....a Tap Plastics
employee said that a rubbery plastic bag could be pressed
hard on top surface of (partly cured?) resin then out toward edges
repeatedly, then pulled off (afterwards?) to give a good surface too
......OR?
stretch clear plastic wrap over the surface but not touching. This will
seal off the air/humidity resulting in a tack free surface.
..."surface
curing agent" (a surfacing or "finishing" resin)
--basically a wax (+ styrene?) which will keep out the air
.......add
it to the final layer of resin when doing a casting (...6-8 drops,
per oz of resin) to fully cure
.......creates a waxy film which eliminates
tackiness, but can make the surface cloudy or
hazy, so use it sparingly
..........the thinner the
layer (of resin?), the less visible the haze will be though
.......surface
curing agent also available in a spray can which I prefer over adding the
curing agent to the resin directly
...or you can use a with PVA
spray (poly-vinyl acetate)...it's a mold release agent also
(prevents air from getting to the surface) and is water soluble that will readily
wash off.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=42
AFTER
CURING:
...excess humidity can cause cloudiness
in the casting
.......stickiness (from humidity, etc.) which isn't
permanent may go away if you just allow more days to harden
.........I'm
in South Florida (which means constant humidity)...to help, I use more catalyst
than called for
.........also, I bring them inside the house to finish drying
after the pieces have set a while (couple hours)
.........also, after 2-3
days I add a protective coat on the surface (clear nail polish works best
for small pieces, or a high-gloss clear spray ("solvent" based or acrylic?)
...no stickiness! glitterkick
...in general, you
can topcoat a polyester resin with an epoxy resin if the
"surface is thoroughly cured and properly abraided"
...(OR?)
you must use regular polyester resin for the final coat (of polyester resin) so
you have a hard tack free surfact to paint or cover.
...the cloudiness can
be minimized by being buffed away with rubbing or polishing compound
after it (the resin?) has fully cured
............("the entire
surface will most likely need to be sanded as well since polyester resin
tends to cure with some surface ripple effect")
...when a casting
has a cloudy surface, can try several things:.
......the
first involves sanding with 120 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit,
followed by buffing with a buffing compound or Jewelrys rouge.
......you
can also lightly sand your casting and then finish with a solvent based
(?) clear acrylic spray
...see also
just below for more on sanding/polishing and other possibilities
orange-peel
surface or ripple
surface (or hiding stickiness, etc.?)..(normal)
....if
the top layer of poured resin will be the under side
of a "cast" object, it may not show or will show less (through
other side)
........can hide it a bit by adding a bit of colorant to
that (final) layer
........or can glue on felt or cork
backing (epoxy glue will work)
....if the top layer of
poured resin will be the showing surface however:
........to
fix the unevenness, you'll need to sand-polish (80 grit till flat...
then wet-sand 240, 400, 600 grit)... then polish (jeweler's rouge
or polishing compound)
.........though polishing can be extremely time
consuming
in
general, can topcoat a polyester resin with an epoxy resin
if "surface is thoroughly cured and properly abraided" first...
clear
acrylic spray may be applied in several coats to remove (fill in?)
minor blemishes such as fingerprints (fills in unevenesses a bit)
......will
also help with cloudiness or tackiness probably
...or
try carnauba wax, Pledge, etc. ??
...clinea suggests using Novus # 2 &
3 (plastic scratch fillers) since "minute scratches are almost
unavoidable"
larger scratches
...sand
and buff-polish (see above)
When
using pigments & dyes, remember that the curing process will be slowed
down, so add extra catalyst.
fingerprints,
minor blemishes (on thoroughly-cured resin)
April's
miniature soups and stews with colored resins (probably polyester) surrounding
bits of polymer clay food, poured into 1 1/2" wide glass bowls
...resin colored with oils, pigment powders, inks, et depending on what final
look desired
http://aprilsjunk.com/?p=97
..........(is
all this is true for polyesters?):........
Must seal very porous
items before contact with resin to prevent venting of air
bubbles in resin, and possible “blotching”
later,. and also to prevent them from becoming translucent
on the surface (though this can be done intentionally for a translucent efffect):
... can apply
a thin coat of completely mixed resin-hardener as sealer (wait 4-12
hrs.) for greatest contrast (4 if sand?)
....or
can buy special sealer (like
Ultra Seal) ...prob. diluted white glue
....or
use white glue (4:1 with water) ....(wait 4 hrs.after application)
to keep it from becoming translucent....
let dry glue completely... then use resin (1-2 thin coats?)
....or delicate
items such as dried flowers can be sealed with 2 coats of a fast-drying acrylic
spray (such as Envirotex Spray Sealer)
..may also
need to seal any dyed or painted
objects ...test for color fastness since color may bleed
into the casting
STAGES: ..... soft gel
in 15-20 min... firm gel in 20-30 min
....hardening
(click-hard) 4-24 hrs, depending on temp... could take sev.
more days to completely dry-cure
Can
cast in layers in order to add embedments, or to create layers
of diff.color
(each layer can be up to a maximum of
1 1/2" deep)
....pour first layer (the
bottom side of this layer
will
be the top
surface of final cast)
...... and therefore
won't be sticky or have orange-peely surface (as long
as porportions are correct)
.......polyester resin (like polymer clay) will
take on a shiny surface when it's cured touching a smooth surface
...allow
to gel 15-25 minutes (can test with stick) ....do
not move
mold after this
........each layer which will
have an embedment on it must gel firmly enough to support added
object
....add object(s) face down ...(can dip embedment
into mixed resin first to prevent bubbles
later, esp. if dimensional)
....add another layer of resin
...can repeat layers
........(after 5 layers,
each layer will add to heat build-up so will affect # of
drops to use)
....if desired, can color last layer (will be bottom),
after prev. layer has gelled (see Coloring, & Orange Peel, below)
....must
pour each new layer before the
previous layer cures completely
because it shrinks as it cures (more than epoxies), and pulls away from
the sides of the mold (so pouring a new layer after this happens will allow the
new resin to flow down the sides of the older layer, and item
cast won't have smooth sides)
...when hard (4-24 hrs.)
flex the mold, and eject cured resin onto mylar or waxed
paper
.......do not
handle resin until it is absolutely tack-free (or can get fingerprints,
cloudiness)
...clean up (while wet) with acetone or rubbing alcohol
sanding
(and polishing) allows you to also get rid of the sharp edges that
often result from the resin having been cast in molds
....see Gen. Info
above for more on this resin "creep" up
the sides of a container caused by shrinking
(see details on sanding
above under "orange peel surface")
clinea suggests using Novus #1 (special plastic cleaner), to clean and shine the finished resin
MOLDS
FLEXIBLE
...molds
which create the clearest castings are purchased molds made from HDPE
(High Density PolyEthylene plastic)
.......Tupperware and
RubberMaid containers are also made from HDPE ...no mold release agent is
required
...... any tiny scratches in these molds
will result in more cloudy castings though
...latex or rubber
mold compounds... RTV compounds... silicone --mold release not
needed with these since they are very flexible.. disadvantage to flexible
molds though is that castings come out tacky and wavy because heat from the resin
when curing dissipates quickly through the rubber molds.
STIFF
...glass
& metal ... mold release necessary
...... purchase P.V.A.
(PolyVinylAcetate) mold release
.......or wipe inside with Pam cooking
spray ....or apply solution of 1 pt liquid-soap to 4 pts water (let
dry before using)
...plaster, Cement, wood, and any porous molds
.... lightly seal with paste wax (amount of catalyst should also be reduced
due to heat buildup)
waxes (carnauba, beeswax?, Pledge)
(see more below)
molds
(and colorants)
http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/CastingMaterials/POLYESTER/polyester.htm
....polyester
resin is what most figurines you see in chain stores are cast in
....polyester resins are used in all types of composite
construction (commonly referred to as fiberglass resin or boat resin)
....polyester
resin cannot be applied over epoxy resin (though
epoxy resin can be applied over polyester resin)
....polyester
resins tend to be fairly rigid when cured... and also slightly
more brittle than epoxy resins.. may chip if dropped
....all?
resins eventually susceptible to yellowing
from UV light
(direct sun... fluorescents),
but polyester better or not at all?
....(previously-?) cast polyester
resins become rubbery if ever subjected to temperatures
over 200ºF
NOTE....MORE
INFO & USES below in Epoxy Resins
also
applies to polyester resins ..
they just didn't get repeated in this category
more
INFO ...and INSTRUCTIONS
...entire (short) book (17 pgs) online,
by Casey Carlton, re using one brand (Castin' Craft):
http://www.eti-usa.com/books/castinbk/page1.htm
(keep clicking on Next Page,
or click particular page number in top navigation
bar)
whole beads
made with polyester resin and molds .... some have
inclusions like glitter, feathers, etc.,
(some of her other beads
are made from rods and other shapes of purchased acrylic, which
she sometimes grinds after curing to add embellishments or change shapes)
http://www.clinea.com/products.htm
available
at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, art supply stores ...boat supply stores, plastic
stores
....online (...but no longer at Dick Blick)
BRANDS
Castin'
Craft Casting Resin or Clear Poly Casting Resin, with Catalyst
(by ETI, Environmental Technology,Inc.)
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/castresn/castinst.htm
http://www.eti-usa.com/chainstr/castretl.htm
MSDS http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/CASTINGR.htm
http://www.creative-wholesale.com/casting%20resin.html
...also carry small-shapes molds... colorants (transparents &
opaques)
......other accessories & instructions
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~~parentID~2972~categoryID~2970.htm
Lam-A-Cast
Crystal Clear Casting Resin, with catalyst (same brand?)
......"for
paper weights, figurines, and embedments"
http://www.delviesplastics.com/casting_resin.htm
Clear-Lite
Casting Resin (by Tap Plastics?)
http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Clearlite%20Casting%20Tip.pdf
Polytranspar Artificial Water is the most trusted (and best selling) clear casting resin on the market. Tens of thousands of taxidermy habitat scenes have been created with this versatile product. And now, an improved formulation allows even greater clarity on deep pours. You can create beautiful water surfaces, splash scenes, and ice effects with this crystal clear product. Simply add catalyst, stir and pour. Dries to a smooth, non-tacky finish. Can be poured over plexiglass, cast in molds, manipulated during the gelling stage to create ripples, assembled into intricate splashes, painted over assembled pieces, and more. Each kit includes resin and clear MEK catalyst. Although the shelf life for this product should be at least six months, the shelf life will be greatly reduced if it is stored near a heat source, or if the container is left open and/or exposed to high humidity. (Shipping over one gallon requires UPS hazardous materials surcharge. Cannot be shipped by air.)
````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
UNKNOWNS
or OTHER
...Quick
Water (for simulating water)
...like the
"soft" epoxy resins below,
in many ways? (doesn't
set up "hard")
......but this
product is a urethane chemistry, NOT an acrylic
......cures in 8-10 hs. ("will
not yellow like it's acrylic competitors")
..."new Vinyl Ester resins" ("vinylester") are hybrids....modified epoxies ... becoming more popular all the time as an alternative to epoxies ... catalyzed with MEKP like polyesters... short shelf life though! (3 mo?)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy
...basic
raw epoxy can be added to during manufacture in many ways,
using:
......mineral fillers (talc, silica, etc) ...flexibilizers, thickeners,
viscosity reducers, colorants, adhesion promoters, accelerators, etc.
Epoxy
resins come in 2 parts, and are mixed one to one, in ratios by exact
weight or volume
...(some other epoxy resins may have other set proportions
tho')
(summary)
DISADVANTAGES
(compared to polyester resins):
...somewhat
more expensive than
polyester ... (but not very expensive
for our small uses)
....will take longer to create...
and longer to cure if deeper
than 1/8"
....the hard version can be cast
only to a total
of 1/2" thickness or
it will yellow (look amber)...
max. of 1/8" at
a time
....the soft version can be cast as deep
as wanted, but has a rubbery surface after cure
....keep
off of skin... more likely to cause an eventual sensitization
than other resins, after repeated use (if use gloves, select latex or nitrile
gloves, not food handling gloves)
....not as stable in UV
light as polyesters
ADVANTAGES (many):
...safer to use
...easier
to use (less temperature sensitive, no proper # of drops to worry about, compatible
with more materials, etc.)
...least objectionable odor of nearly all
resins
...no problems with its suface having orange-peel appearance,
or being tacky--unless not mixed well, esp. when final surface is the showing
surface
...less heat produced in the curing so better for many materials,
possibly including polymer clays
...(hard version) stronger & more flexible
...also more waterproof
TYPES:... there seem to
be 2 main types of epoxy resin we might use:
....both can be brushed on
as finishes... or poured on as thick finishes... or
cast in molds
....but the 2 types have different
finished surfaces, and need to be treated somewhat
differently:
......hard ....Liquid Glass, Ultra-Glo,
Envirotex Lite, etc ...these cure with a hard surface
..........can be
cast
only to a total of 1/2" thickness
(or will look amber)...(1/8"
at a time)
......softer ... Acrylic Water, Liquid
Illusion, etc. (aka floral setting resin, fake water) ...these cure with a
softer, more rubbery surface
.........can be poured
to any depth permanently into vessels
Hard epoxy
resins are most often used (by anyone) for pouring on, yielding a thick,
clear coating.
Soft epoxy resins are generally used for simulating
water (in clear containers in which silk flowers can be arranged).
....but
both can be used in other ways
However... for castings
which are both deep and hard, must? use polyester
resins (see above)
....(or perhaps, hard epoxy resins can be cast deep, in
many layers, but will just be amber --or could color it???)
"HARD"
Epoxy Resins (clear, 2 pt.)
(Aristocrat Liquid Glass...Envirotex
Lite... Ultra Glo... etc.)
These
cure extremely hard, and very very
clear (great look and feel)
...out-performs
most polyester resins in many ways
.......high strength... low shrinkage...
low brittleness
.......wider temperature
tolerance than polyester (when mixing-curing?)
...formulated to achieve
a wide variety of properties ..come both opaque and clear
...basic stickiness
before curing makes it good for adhesives and repair applications
...is compatible with most other resins (including polyester
resin, so it can be applied over polyester --but not the reverse... thoroughly
sand the polyester layer if you want to epoxy over it)
...can
use on almost any surface, rough or smooth (see Uses below for
various materials that can be covered)
....doesn't
get as hot when curing as polyesters (heat may not even be noticeable
when using small amts)
........therefore does not cause problems with
baked polymer clay (polyester resins may cause discoloration
or marks)
........though some plastic items
may "dissolve" even in epoxy (plastic rhinestones?),
so test first
....waterproof...
heat resistant (up to about 120° F?).... alcohol-resistant
(after curing)
......temporary depressions
can appear in the cured surface after an item has been sitting on
it for awhile (humidity & heat may esp. allow this to happen ...will
disappear shortly)
....can
clean smudges or help prevent them by occasionally applying
furniture polish (e.g., Johnson's Lemon Pledge furniture polish
--the one with carnauba wax, not oil) or other carnauba polishes
..........more
on carnauba wax --interesting stuff http://www.zymol.com/carnauba.htm
.....for
scratches that can't be polished out.... clean with acetone, then
re-coat with resin
Part A is the resin side, and the Part B is the hardener. Part A varies in viscosity... can be very low viscosity (or it can be so highly viscous that they must be melted before use)
...need
only to have reasonable ventilation
...wipe off skin if it contacts
resin (safer than polyester resins tho')
...some people may become allergic
to
...susceptible
to yellowing from UV
exposure over
time (direct
sun, or fluorescents)
...polyesters are better for that
........do
not bake epoxy resin unless you want a yellow
tinge to it
........yellowing
may create a desired "antique" effect though
....recommended for
indoor use, because severe heat-cold
cycles may cause it to crack or delaminate
....epoxies
will require a mold release
with more
mold materials than polyesters
because of their strong adhesive qualities
Cannot
be poured deeper than 1/8" at
a time
....can create up to 1/2"
thickness total (in 4 layers) ...or 6 total
ounces??? because 1/8" thickness will result in
more volume if a mold is wider??
........
(over
1/2" of total resin
thickness will look amber...
otherwise "clear"... if colored tho', could create more thickness??)
....must
wait 8 hrs between
layers
....gets full strength and toughness in about 48 hrs
coverage....
a 6 oz kit will cover 2 1/4 sq.
ft. --when poured-on as a thick coating
....a 16 oz kit will
cover 4 1/2 sq. ft
WAYS
TO APPLY
1. in regular use, these give a thick clear coating
when poured onto a surface (or dipped), then allowed to drip
off
2. they can also be used as a thin finish
when simply brushed on a surface
....(1. or 2.) a translucent effect
can be created by using the resin on a porous surface like paper, without
sealing it first
3. they can also be poured into molds (maximum
of 1/2" deep or will look amber, in 1/'8 layers--or no more than 6 oz at
one time as with EasyCast?), then
removed
.....can also be poured into permanent
cells (of modeling clay, or other things with lips/dams to keep liquid contained)
.....can
be poured as faux ponds in miniature scenes , etc
4. can partially
embed objects into its final surface (for thicker applications, #1 and
#3).
(see more details below in Coatings and in Castings)
(some)
MATERIALS & ITEMS which can covered over with epoxy resin:
....glass,
tile, metal, rocks, plaster, Styrofoam
....wood, paper, photographs, fabric,
newspaper clippings (these are porous & may need to be sealed first)
....transfers,
bar tops, decorative trays, table surfaces, wall plaques, figurines, seashells,
dried pinecones
This
instruction sheet for Ultra-Glo (from
TAP Plastics) probably covers instructions
for the other brands as well.
http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/UltraGlo%20Instructions.pdf
...instruction
sheet & uses for Envirotex Lite http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/Envirotex_tech.htm
see more technical info on how epoxies cure, heat released, etc., below in "More Technical Info"
Cured
resins can be sanded and
buffed (& drilled) pretty much the same way we do polymer clay
(wet sand, and buff with something soft like a muslin
wheel on an electric buffer or Dremel, etc.) .....becomes really shiny
........ it is much
harder than polymer clay
though... so for sanding, you can also use a Dremel or
similar coarser grit for starters, then use the finer grit sandpapers
etc. Sue H
........a
circular sanding attachment on an ordinary hand drill
will work... hand sanding is pretty difficult
........sanding
allows you to also get rid of the sharp edges that often result
from the resin having been cast in molds
(see more on sanding-polishing
above in Polyester Resins... work the same?)
found in hobby, craft, plastic, paint stores (Home Depot & Lowes no longer carry it)
some
Brands
(all are basically the same)
SOURCES
Michael's
and
probably other craft stores carry
at least one brand of epoxy resin
.... check the glue aisle
(at Michaels, it's usually on the bottom shelf at
Michaels & is a blue and black box). Dotty
art
supply stores
hobby stores
plastics
stores (stores which cut a new piece of plastic for the cover over a recessed
bathroom fluorescent fixture, etc.--look under Plastics in the yellow pages)
hardware
stores
online
at craft, hobby or plastics store
Aristocrat
Liquid Glass (by Aristocrat,
by BD Classic) ......(also
called Aristocrat Epoxy Wood Finish)
....can
be found in craft stores, near the stained glass supplies
...cures
extremely hard, and very very clear
...mix
equal parts (one to one) ...then pour-on (or brush on)
...comes in
8, 16, and 32 oz.kits...
....the
most glassy, wet shine I've gotten as a finish is by using Liquid Glass...
I bush on several thin coats. Dotty in CA.
NOTE:
there are several different products named "Liquid Glass"
that you might see:
..........the one called
Aristocrat is the correct "resin" one
......... the one-part
liquid called Liquid Glass Auto Polish/Finish
may be similar in some ways, but is not the same ...but
may be interesting to use!??
..............
it's a "diamond-hard finish that resists scratching, chipping, fading, corrosion,
rust, sap, tar, acid rain, and road salt.... can also be used on Formica, ceramic
tile, jewelry (on goldplate, e.g.), glass, sporting and camping equipment, etc....Its
key ingredient is crystal clear carbon, the same element found in DIAMONDS!! Once
air cured, the Liquid Glass Finsh is as hard as glass and will never crack, chip,
peel or turn yellow and never has to be removed. Use it on all paints, all bright
work and all glass"
..............http://www.liquidglass.com/lgpolish.htm#anchor48806
.........the
one-part liquid called "Faux
Dichro Liquid Glass" which is to be applied like decoupage (in
several thin coats over and under special foils sold by Faux Dichro) as a "fixative,"
followed by a coat of a high gloss finish
coat is not the same
..........also, the clear thick
embossing powder called Liquid Glass Embossing
Powder (same as "UTEE"?,
but sold by polymerclayexpress)
also is not a resin and is not the same
.....the
floral setting resin called Everlasting
Elegance may be put out by a company called "Liquid Glass"
... it is a "resin", but not a hard one
ALL THE REST seem to be made by Environmental Technology, Inc (ETI), or made by them for various other companies?
Envirotex
Lite Pour On High Gloss Finish ....(sometimes referred to as just
"Envirotex") ... by ETI
...online
(Dick Blick): http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/18
...instruction sheet for Envirotex Lite http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/Envirotex_tech.htm
MSDS
http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/Envirotex%20Lite%20Resin.htm
Ultra-Glo
...I
bought mine at a plastics store.... should also be available at places
like Ace/True Value and Michaels ...by ETI
......online:..:
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~2999~parentID~2972~categoryID~2967.htm
...
two bottles (which are mixed in equal parts) contain 8 oz ...will cover approx.
2 .1/2 sq. ft if poured on
...instruction
sheet for Ultra-Glo http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/UltraGlo%20Instructions.pdf
MSDS
http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/Ultra-Glo%20Resin.htm
EasyCast
... by ETI
instruction sheet: http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/easycast/easycast.html
....up
to 6 ounces per pour (in any depth??) --is this also
true for other epoxies rather than their recommended "maximum of 1/2"
pours in 1/8" increments"?
MSDS http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/MSDS%20PDF/EasyCast/Easy%20Cast%20Resin.pdf
Crystal Sheen ...by ETI
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~ocID~2999~parentID~2972~categoryID~2969.htm
MSDS
http://www.eti-usa.com/MSDS/Crystal%20Sheen%20Resin.htm
at hardware store
Glaze Coat
( Famowood by Eclectic , makers of E6000, etc.) ...pour-on high gloss epoxy
coating ("high build") ..same stuff?..."equiv. to 60 coats of urethane"
....
I bought it in the adhesives section at Home Depot ... 1 qt. for
$13 (that's about $4 cheaper than Envirotex at my crafts store). smprncs
...some
hardware stores have it by the pint
....Lowes...also try Ace
Hardware, TargetWalmart/Walgreens?
http://eclecticproducts.com/famowood/questions_ctggc.asp
.....see more on these materials, including Ultra Glo , in Outdoor Polymer > Sealing
(It's
probably best to do a test piece first if
you haven't done it before, just to see how all this works)
.....(see
also links to "instruction sheets" just above)
Seal
any very porous surfaces first
to prevent translucence, or venting of air
bubbles in resin & “blotching” later:
...
can apply a thin coat
of completely mixed resin-hardener as sealer (wait 4-12 hrs.) for
greatest contrast (4 if sand?)
....or can buy
special sealer (like Ultra Seal) ...prob. diluted white glue
....or
use white glue (4:1 with water) ....(wait 4 hrs.after application)
to keep it from becoming translucent....
let glue dry glue completely or it will always be visible... then use resin
(1-2 thin coats?)
....delicate items such as dried flowers can be sealed with
2 coats of a fast-drying acrylic spray (such as Envirotex Spray Sealer)
....or give a basecoat of acrylic paint
(sponge on or paint)
--HOWEVER, a nice very-translucent effect can be
created intentionally by using the resin over a thin porous
"translucent" surface like paper, without sealing it first
......the
back side of any paper (e.g. writing on it) will also become visible
though!
--If don't seal an opaque surface, its color will become much
darker.
--May also need to seal some
dyed or painted objects
...test for color fastness since color may bleed
into the casting (only for polyesters?).
Clean
the surface
...must be free of oil or
wax & dust to allow resin
to stick well --wipe
with alcohol?
...must be dry
(nothing damp)
Work
in reasonably well ventilated area
...do
not mix or pour in direct sunlight
...best
results, coat at temperatures between 68° and 80°
...best hardness,
pour and cure at humidity below 50%
...mix
up only the amount you'll use in 20 minutes or less (...for larger
areas, best to have a helper to make new batches)
Use
disposable materials: cups (unwaxed paper, plastic or glass,
wood), stirrer sticks (tongue depressor, etc) &
brushes (foam, etc.)
...protect worksuface
(with newspaper, alum. foil, etc.), since resin will stick
to anything it touches
This
type of resin cannot be poured deeper than 1/8"
at a
time
....although can create up to
1/2" thickness total (in 4 layers) without becoming amber
.... wait
8 hrs between layers
...
wipe the surface with a clean cloth and alcohol prior to recoating
.... full strength and toughness in about 48 hr
Elevate the item on cups, or piles of pennies, etc. to allow excess resin to drip off, and to easily reach edges where drips occur.
Mix......(keep
capped tightly when not in use)
...pour resin in one cup and hardener
in another cup (equal amounts)... can mark, but don't use water
to measure unless dry!
...then pour one part into the other part
...mix
very thoroughly for 1-2 min (for clearest result)... scraping
the sides and bottom of container continuously
...some people recommend pouring
into a new cup (then mixing 30 sec. more), so any unmixed liquid
in bottom will stay in first cup
......uncured ‘sticky’
spots will result from any part of the liquid
which is not thoroughly mixed (can't chemically react, so
won't cure)
........in that case, scrape the spots from the cured surface...
scrub well with acetone or rubbing alcohol... then re-pour entire
surface
...working
time approx. 20 min
...after 2 mins.,
mixed liquid will begin to heat up... this is normal)
LEFTOVER RESIN ....do not pour any resins into
sinks
(will clog drain)
...do
not pour mixed resin back in the can
coloring
...+ inclusions + fauxs
Clear
epoxy resins can be colored with artists' oil paints (in tubes)
--must use "resinous" colorants with resins
...........Raggedy
D. says can also tint with colored glass "stains" (not
glass "paints"??
.....if you want opaque or translucent
resin, add some Titanium White oil paint , along with other colors if desired,
to opaque the resin (or perhaps add other inclusions as below)
...lesson
on tinting with acrylic paint "or other paint"??
...(can use acrylics as long as don't use too
much???)
special
colorants are sold for use with resins too ...they
come in transparent and opaque versions
...doesn't take much
colorant....always add the color first, which will
give more time to obtain desired shade (will look darker when resin deeper)
...then
add the catalyst (but remember not to add catalyst to more resin than will
be used within 10 - 20 min)... this only for polyester resins?
(see
below in Cold Enamels for already-colored 2-pt resins to purchase)
When
casting layers, colorants may be added to all layers (could be different
colors) or just some layers
....or only to the the bottommost
layer in a finished casting (good at hiding the bad surface quality
of polyester resins)
....for simulating
miniature outdoor ponds or lakes, my husband mixes the casting resin
in layers
.........he colors the bottom layer a "muddy"
color... the next layer less muddy.... and the top layer clear...
this gives a very realistic look . Dona
If they are colored, epoxy resins can be cast deeper than the normal 1/2" total depth (to hide the amber cast that occurs with more thickness)??
"marbling"..
one or more colored resins can be marbled on any? surface
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_clay/article/0,2025,DIY_13750_2269202,00.html
...to create a
tinted resin, mix 2 drops paint into small amount of epoxy resin in cup ... mix
very well
.........drizzle or drip tinted resin onto surface,
and to edges with card (she uses a painted cardboard shape)... swirl color
with a toothpick
........ mix up another color if desired, drizzle
on, and repeat
........(can also use untinted resin with a bit of metallic
embossing powder added to drizzle and swirl too)
........ harden overnight
...can add final layer of clear epoxy resin, if want... harden again
(..."
looks grand, especially over black cardstock embossed with
metallic powder")
(also
shows a "squish" technique)
powders
...like
powdered pigments
... metallic mica
powders (Pearl Ex, e.g.) or metal-based powders (Mona Lisa or Fimo's)
...embossing
powders ...also chalk powders, etc?
faux
marble ...add 3 or more contrasting colors of opaque pigment...
e.g:
...white marble (white, bit of black), pink marble (pink=red+white,
gray=white+black)
...green marble ( green, white,bit of black), brown
marble (brown, white, bit of black)
(when mixing more than one color into
resin which will be "marbled together" but still remain somewhat
distinct, mix resin parts together in separate containers, then add colorant
to each container separately... to marble the colors together, pour them all into
one container, then swirl a couple of times before pouring (too much mixing will
result in blended colors rather than "marbled"
)
faux granite
...could
mix several colors of sand and/or colored play sand, etc., into
resin for a matrix effect (black, gray white, translucent)
...or Castin'Craft
makes Granite Powders (in different colors?) one to one with resin...
these appear white but change color when added to resin... stir slowly to avoid
getting powder in air... after pouring, may need to get rid of air bubbles
faux
glass ...use transparent dyes (or oil paints?)
faux
metal... use real-metal powders or mica-based powders (see
just above for examples)
... about 1/4 teaspoon for 8 oz of mixed resin (or
more or less, depending on effect desired)
inclusions...
fine or tiny inclusions can also be used to color the resin, or
to change its appearance throughout, or in just one layer (as long as the inclusions
contain no water or residual moisture, and
won't be damaged by the heat
of the resin curing)
...e.g., glitters (esp. those for clothing
or rubberstamping), spices, herbs (well dried) , sand, flakes of metallic leaf,
tiny sequins, etc. (see Inclusions
for more ideas)
USE immediately
...pour on, brush on, dip, or cast
the entire amount
you've mixed
........(see details below in Coating
and in Casting)
...if pouring, begin with perimeter
of surface and spiral inward
.....then spread more if nec. with
a foam or glue brush, or an index card (don't spread too thin or
surface may be wavy)
(for porous objects... seal as above, or
with 2 coats of a fast drying acrylic spray, then apply resin thinly in one or
two coats)
BUBBLES...
(bubbles are normal... they will show up within 10 min. after pouring)
..most
will break by themselves as the resin heats up during the curing stage
.....(with some of my fountains, I actually stirred the mixture
up to create bubbles for the look of the water moving & it was hard
to keep the bubbles)
..or carbon dioxide from various sources will
help pop the bubbles (it's not the heat, but the CO2)
....."gently"
exahale on (don't blow) the bubbles to pop them (do not breathe
in though)
.........Kathy suggestst exhaling
through a straw to narrow and focus the breath
......(can
use a hair dryer or embossing gun, but may scatter
dust onto resin surface)
..larger bubbles can be pricked with
toothpick, etc.
..for larger areas of resin or stubborn bubbles,
can keep a lighted match (or small propane torch, 3-6"
away) moving
above surface (the flame consumes oxygen and will pull bubbles
right out of resin)
Some
powders may cause excess bubbles
(because of that's trapped air in between the tiny
bits?)
....I
have mixed Pearl-Ex interference powders into the clear (epoxy resin) with
very nice results. Be careful of bubbles.
Jami Miller
...alsomake sure any
fine or tiny inclusions contain no water or residual moisture
(could cause bubbling? or cloudines?)
Also,
very porous
items must be sealed before contact with resin to prevent
venting of air bubbles in resin, possible “blotching”
in the finished product, and also to prevent the items from becoming translucent
(though this can be done intentionally if a translucent efffectis desired):
.......to seal, apply
a thin coat of completely pre-mixed resin-hardener as sealer
(wait 4-12 hrs.) for greatest contrast (4 if sand?)
.......or
buy special sealer (like
Ultra Seal) ...prob. diluted white glue
.......or
just use white glue (4:1 with water) ....wait 4 hrs.after
application; let dry glue completely
.......delicate
items such as dried flowers can be sealed with 2 coats of a fast-drying acrylic
spray (such as Envirotex Spray Sealer)
(may
also need to seal any dyed or
painted objects ...test for color fastness since color may
bleed into the casting)
DRIPS:
...
it drips a little (but also has a high surface tension
so it cures to a raised but rounded, smooth-edged surface)
...protect
any areas on the item you don't want resin to stick to with masking tape
or heavy coat of paste wax (applied to the back or anywhere you
don't want resin
.....wipe
off drips 30 min after application with glue brush while resin still
fluid ... repeat in 30 more minutes,
if nec.
.....remove
masking tape in 12-24 hrs
.....or can sand off after curing 48-72
hrs. (circular sanding attachment on an ordinary hand drill
will work... hand sanding difficult)
(....if necessary, clean up anything that needs it with acetone while still wet)
Allow
item to cure in a warm, draft free and non-dusty room ....away
from children, pets, activity, fans, etc.
......protect
resin surface from dust
& pet hair during curing
by placing a cardboard box over the item,
for example
...leave undisturbed for at least 24 hrs.
......sets
up in 3-5 hrs, depending on temp & humidity
......cures
to touch in 12 hrs.
......full
cure in 48-72 hrs)
...for
ex., at 80º
(4 hr set up, 60 hr full cure) ...or at 70º
(5 hr, 72 hr)
For a satin finish, "sand" with 0000 steel wool, then polish with polishing compound.
cutting, drilling or shaping-sanding after cure
Can cut thin pieces
of resin after curing
...for example, can pour resin on glass (or alum. foil)...
thin with card if want (will self level)... let set... peel off
....score
guidelines ... then cut resin with passes from craft knife (and
steel edge ruler)
Can drill
holes into resin with ordinary drill bits
Can
sand to smooth or to change shape (see _______________),
then polish
....generally best with electric tools because very hard surface
(seal
any porous
surfaces first to avoid “blotching” later:
....use
a thin coat of mixed resin
....using a
white glue solution (4:1 with water) --buy buy special sealer
......wait
4 hrs.after application or paper will be translucent....
let dry glue completely... then use resin
....delicate items such as
dried flowers can be sealed with 2 coats of a fast drying acrylic spray
(like Envirotex Spray Sealer)
as
a THIN FINISH
...BRUSH
ON ...mix the two parts, then brush on with a
disposable brush (can use several thin coats, or just one)
..for
decoupage: use white glue to mount the items to be coated --seal if using
thin paper
..can coat interior of pots by pouring in, then spreading
up sides with foam brush (if terra cotta, place clear tape over hole from inside)
......wait
12 hrs. before removing tape, turning over/elevating, and applying to outside,
if desired
as a THICKER
FINISH ........3 options:... let drip... dip or pour-down ... dam
.....protect
surfaces (object & work surface) where you don't want resin ... mix
resin
(also see Kato liquid clay used this way in Liquid
Clay > Clear Finish)
...use
an inexpensive brush, and clean it immediately... I never got all
of the enamel out and had to toss mine. Jami
DRIP:
......elevate item ... pourover surface
of the item, beginning
with the perimeter, then spiraling inward
.......if
necessary, spread
any missed spots with disposable brush or card
(will self level) ... let drip
......wipe drips off under edges
with foam or glue brush after 30 min (repeat in another 30 min. if nec.)
...I used in on a whole clay pin, and I also did just the face part
of a pin. Kathy
..can coat freestanding
paper images too... glue onto non-contrasting color of card stock with
glue stick, then cut out... seal both sides with diluted glue or 2 coats of resin...
pour resin on top side... cover back with diluted white glue
.......after 12
hrs., can bend the image and hold in place with tape, etc... let cure entire time
& remove tape
....might
be pretty neat to pour over a sheet of baked cane slices (or whatever
pattern), then use as a coaster
...could do something similar
for keyrings, name tags, etc.
(could coat both sides or
only front side... if both, do front first)
..Sherri's lesson on putting
a thick layer of Envirotex Lite over dried flowers on baked polymer
clay (after adhering dried flowers onto baked clay with white glue... drying...then
sealing them with more glue ...applying resin in center, spreading to edges with
toothpick)
http://tinyurl.com/b8atw
DIP,
or pour down VERTICAL surfaces,etc.
....I
use it for dipping my pens. . . .Lisette
....figurines, other
items.. can pour resin over item and let flow down around it... use
stiff brush or card to spread if necessary
....the people at
Envirotex and some old manual I had years ago suggested using a tongue depresser
to occasionally scrape the drips off the bottom of dipped items as they
cure.... (dip the piece, hang it with a wax-coated nail or cord (waxed dental
floss maybe?) (so the resin won't stick) over wax paper... then every once
in a while come back and run the stick over the bottom edge to get the drips --that
was the technique they used in the 80s for paper jewelry made with resin coatings.
bigeyes (see also Finishes > Varathane
> Dipping)
.... resin also makes
a beautiful interior finish for small polymer
vessels... just pour it in (and swirl around?)... (resin
is good for this too because often the interior part of vessels are impossible
to sand). Kathy
... can also
tint the resin before pouring over an object, e.g., in this lesson on making
a glazed orange blossom cake by Raggedy D. (see details in
Miniatures > Icings, etc.)
http://raggedyds.com/howto2.htm
as
a COATING + ADHESIVE .....(this type of resin
is an excellent adhesive ...better than polyester)
...Marie Browning's lesson
on using a resin layer used to hold fine sand onto "mossy" garden
stones with raised lettering
......sprinkle
with fine sand while paint is wet ...wait for paint to dry
......(elevate)....
cover with epoxy
resin ... let set 24 hrs (like thick, clear coating, but also adhesive)
http://www.craftsmag.com/projects/project.ihtml?content_id=284&cat_idx=5
...
see more in Outdoor
to
simulate melting jellies, ice creams, or spilled drinks, allow epoxy resin
to begin to gel before you pour it. This will produce a thicker
layer than if it is poured right after mixing... about.com
(or use liquid
clays, etc.... see Miniatures > Foods
> Icings, etc. for more re simulating softer or more gel-like things)
"Casting"
....in molds or cells-depressions...
Casting here refers
to pouring the resin into a permanent or temporary "container"
(that's resin-safe), and letting it cure.
...if a temporary shaper ("mold")
is used, the hardened resin will be removed after curing (and the resin/item
will be freestanding)
.......if a permanent "container" and
shaper is used, the hardened resin will not be removed but will be left in
place as part of the finished work
...epoxy resins aren't used that
often in temporary molds (like polyester resins are), but they can be
--must create in layers no more than 1/8" at a time tho
.......more often
epoxies are used to fill permanent "cells" or depressions in other
materials (including baked polymer clay) to create things like faux cloisonne,
faux ponds, very thick clear pools of "finish" walls of "framed"
transfers (clay dam as frame), or "aquarium" beads, etc.
April's
miniature soups and stews with colored resins (probably polyester, but
could be epoxy especially if done in several layers) surrounding bits of polymer
clay food, poured into 1 1/2" wide glass bowls
...resin colored with
oils, pigment powders, inks, et depending on what final look desired
http://aprilsjunk.com/?p=97
All
resins shrink a bit when curing (epoxies less than polyesters) so this will mean
that hard epoxies will sink a little in the middle, I think,
and therefore "creep" up the sides of the
container or mold a bit (around edges)
....if using a removable mold,
this can be sanded off if desired, or used as the back side
....if
using cells and depressions, will probably not be noticed or look "normal"
for what it's imitating
molds
...for freestanding resin
pieces...
Molds can be purchased,
found, or made:
The clearest castings are created
with purchased molds made from HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene plastic)...no
release agent is required
......these cloudy-plastic molds
can often be purchased where resins are sold (polypropylene or polyethelene)
......Tupperware
and RubberMaid containers are also made from HDPE
.........plastic
molds are easily scratched though (which will show
up on resin surface) so don't scrub to clean, or
wipe dry (air dry)
Epoxies
will not stick to polyethylene sheeting like disposable paint tarps
and sandwich bags (and to mold-release compounds recommended
for use with epoxy) .
Epoxy does not stick to the shiny side
of packaging tape, or to paraffin wax. (wikipedia)
silicone
molds are excellent (no release needed)
... buy
silicone molds
... or make you own small silicone molds from two-part
silicone molding materials (for those see Molds
> Making your own>
Flexible Molds)
You
can make a mold from ordinary kids' plasticine
modeling clay (heat generated not too hot to melt?)
....... can
also make temporary walls of modeling clay on top of aluminum foil, pour in resin
to a little depth... cure ... remove
....or use Vinamold (melt
in a saucepan, and pour over --in a dam)
....would raw
polymer clay work?
latex
or rubber mold compounds... RTV compounds (need release)
...."disadvantage
to (all?????) flexible molds though is that castings
come out tacky and wavy because
heat from the resin when curing dissipates quickly
through the rubber molds" ...true only for polyester resins,
or for epoxy resins too??
...The
mold release you want to use for latex is silicone.... (latex) is not
compatible with epoxy, and you must use a silcone wax if you're working
with polyester. The most common release for both is pure carnuba wax (no fillers)
and PVA (poly vinyl alcohol). You rub several coats of the wax into the surface
with a soft cotton cloth, polishing well between coats. Then spray (with an airbrush
or paint gun) a couple of nice coats of the PVA.
Even
very rigid molds
can work as long as there are no undercuts, and the
mold angles outward at least a bit,
but may require a release
...(baked polymer clay?)
....glass...
metal... fiberglas... plaster... cement... wood...
etc.
RELEASES: some rigid molds or areas require releases,
some don't
.... here are some possibilities for releases for whole molds, or
just for areas to keep the resin off of
(though this is not
totally reliable information):
....Johnson's
Paste Furniture Wax ...can be wiped on a warm mold to provide an excellent
barrier
....pure carnauba wax (no fillers)
....oils, like
vegetable cooking sprays, plasticizers in raw polymer clay?
.....PVA
(poly vinyl alcohol) mold release... rub several coats of the wax into the surface
with a soft cloth, polishing between coats ...then spray couple of coats of the
PVA (last step necessary?)
....masking tape
...clear tape
....ArmorAll
(silicone spray) (ok
for epoxies?)
....matte medium (or
other acrylics like Varathane?)
....(materials above
also, like silicone molding material, kids' modeling clay, raw polymer clay?)
MORE:
these releases were suggested for polyester resins, but should work
for epoxy resins too:
...(for glass & metal) ... mold release necessary
--purchase P.V.A. mold release
...(for plaster, Cement, wood, and any porous
molds) --can wipe inside with Pam veg. cooking spray
........or can apply
solution of 1 pt liquid-soap to 4 pts water (...let dry
before using)
....lightly seal mold with paste wax (amount
of catalyst in polyester resins should also be reduced
due to heat buildup)
waxes (carnauba, beeswax?, Pledge)
more info?: http://www.star-technology.com/epoxymix.html
orientation
... finished pieces of epoxy resin which have been cast in a mold and removed
can be used either side up (i.e., the shaped surface
created by the bottom of the mold can be facing up, or the flat surface
of the former "top" side can be left facing up)
.....this is because
the upper surface of resin which had contact with the air while curing will
not be imperfect or tacky (would have been if polyester
resin had been used)
....objects which are embedded in the
resin can also be put into a mold (on a layer of cured resin) right side
up, or upside down
Many
small objects, glitters, etc., can be embedded inside the resin
....some
require preparation ...photographs, fabrics, paintings, prints,
etc.,should be tested for compatibility with resin before casting
.....
(e.g., seal items which are painted or dyed whcih bleed ... use
only dry items ...generally almost anything can be used, as is)
...you
could embed a cane slice in clear resin, so its sort of floating
there in the middle
.......then drill a hole through the corner
of the resin for a keychain ring (with an electric drill).... NF
....paperweights...little
signs..... embellishments,
etc.
....I've
made several "aquarium boxes" with a top(?) where fish appear to be
swimming
....cool pendants ...glass tubes filled with resin and
little objects (acrylic water type resin used, but could be epoxy?)
http://www.hussydesigns.com/waterworks.html
(bottom of page)
........I use Liquid Glass and a silicone mold
(round shaped, 1" deep, and flat on top and bottom). Dotty
...jewelry
...whole resin beads or pendants could be made
.......for inspiration,
look at clinea's beads made with polyester resin and molds some
of which have inclusions like glitter, feathers, etc.,
(some
of her other beads are made from rods and other shapes of purchased acrylic,
which she sometimes grinds after curing to add embellishments or change shapes)
http://www.clinea.com/products.htm
.....resin
beads made from epoxy wouldn't scratch as easily as her polyester resin
ones, but would maybe need to be less than 1/2" thick?
partial
embedding + adhesion
(in mold or not)
Objects
can be embedded -adhered just partially into top surface
of resin (as opposed to completely embedding)
.....e.g., small
objects...jewels...charms...clay slices, etc..... they
will protrude from suface
.....depth of sink in will depend on
depth of that layer of resin, or could maybe wait till top surface gelled up a
bit and not press in too hard?
.....see also embedding objects into resin for
snowglobes below in Other Uses
...nightlight...could partly
embed one of those tiny plastic plug-nightlights (with electrical plug
sticking out so could be plugged into wall), then add clay or other items-inclusions
to the resin "shield" for light to shine through
freeform resin shapes
freeform shapes of resin can be
created with resins (all kinds?)
...with aluminum foil (...or waxed
paper?)
......create an open or closed "mold" with foil ...
add resin... let set ... peel off foil
...on glass (like liquid clay)...
pour resin on glass, then thin with card if want (will self level)... let set...
peel off
.......or surface can be shaped or textured by laying alum.
foil over resin before curing...shaping the foil... leaving to cure... peel off
foil
other clear sheets
or "windows" .... pour resin on glass as above... cure...
peel
ice cubes ...pour resin into (wood,
but won't it stick?) temporary walls of modeling clay on top of aluminum foil,
or other temporary mold, to a little depth... cure ... remove
....score
guidelines for cubes... then cut resin with passes from craft knife
(and steel edge ruler)
(also see waterfall, and sheet of water, below in Faux Water area)
cells,
etc.
(depressions & dams)
Various kinds of cells could
hold resin inside them permanently... cells could be large or small
...depressions
can be created in softer material (even clay, before baking)
...or
areas can be built with depressions
...walls/dams of some
kind can be built up on top of, or otherwise added to, firmer materials
I had some pendants that had some nice recessed photo transfers on them, so I just poured a thin coating of the Liquid Glass into the recesses.... next day I had a beautiful, crystal clear covering that looked exactly like glass, actually, better than glass. Dotty
"aquarium beads" could be made with a thick layer of resin rather than a glass pebble (see Misc >Marbles >Glass Pebbles... or in Beads too?)
I
have made what I call "rock pool pendants" ....
I used a faux stone clay as the base, with an indentation in it
(baked)
.......filled the depression with polyclay items like starfish,
seaweed, the odd guppy, etc. (could glue in place)
...... then I add a
sprinkle of tiny beads and pearls and some tiny shells
.......then
fill with (resin water --hard or soft epoxy resin?) ...these are
2" across and hang on a silk cord
metal
bottle caps (from beer, etc.) ......(would plastic caps melt?)
BASIC
INFO:
... can remove plastic ring inside the cap with pliers after heating
with match... or can leave it in
... add tiny things or
photos, collages, small baked polymer clay items, etc.. then fill with resin
(or with a clear liquid clay --Fimo or Kato)
...use as jewelry
(pins,etc.), embellishments, or anywhere
...can drill holes
in the caps (in fluted edge, or in bottom just inside edge)...can use a leather
punch or nail?...punch from the inside, down onto wood?
........then
add things like jump rings, cording, etc.... can attach charms, beads,
etc., to jump rings
... or later, attach magnets or pinbacks
to backs with E6000 or 2-pt epoxy glue
....can paint inside of bottle
cap first (with acrylic paint)
....can glue any items inside with white
glue
...... seal any highly porous items
with 4-to-1 water & white glue mixture (or 2 coats of acrylic spray)
or they could become translucent
&/or create air bubbles
...then
fill bottlecaps with resin... to the rim (resin will
become slightly concave
as it cures) or fill a tiny bit over the rim (resin will cure domed)
...it's really fun making tiny collages to go inside ...
using half shells, lockets, jewelry settings, etc.
......can
use elements like pictures, clip art, watch parts, beads, fabric, lace, petals,
flowers, leaves, glass rhinestones**, junk
jewelry bits, etc. Shauna
(......**but test hard
plastics like rhinestones before using... some will be "dissolved"
by the resin)
...to prevent
resin from going where you don't want (esp. fr. gravity),
cover area with masking tape or use modeling clay (as temp. "retaining
wall", etc.)
LESSONS, EXAMPLES
..Shauna's lesson on metal
bottle caps with epoxy resin, plus examples
http://www.art-e-zine.co.uk/resin.html
......she
also pours the mixed resin into a small squeeze bottle or syringe
so it's easier to use in the small bottlecaps
..Katie's acrylic-painted
bottle caps.... with tiny polymer figures & items inside
http://photobucket.com/albums/v187/TurdFerguson/?action=view¤t=bottlecaps.jpg
.........(...or
look at http://www.effinfantastic.tripod.com)
..Kathy's
lesson on bottle caps + epoxy resin with a cutout picture inside
http://www.azcentral.com/home/crafty/articles/0726craftyideas26.html
..Sherry's
lesson on bottle cap + epoxy resin... with cutout picture & few small
pearls inside, glued in with white glue
....charm dangle hangs
from hole made in bottom fluted area of cap (with jump ring) --back of hole &
jump ring covered temporarily with tape
....uses 1" diam. image
cut with punch or circle cutter... self-adhesive pin backs or epoxy glue
http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?project4
..& http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?gallery
(click on bottlecap for more bottlecaps)
..Goldie's
bottlecaps... http://www.goldiegarcia.com/botcap.php3
..various bottlecaps with pictures, each placed on a handmade card
on top of one area (...to embellish & to make 3-D) --like putting
a 3-D a "head" on a 2-D stamped figure
http://www.techniquejunkies.com/subscriber_artwork/02-04-artwork/02-04_Bottlecaps.html
(2 pg.)
...could use as a "head" for a mixed media
figure
purchased or
made cells could also be things like small frames made from metal,
wood, or polymer clay, etc, bezels, etc..
...Sherri's various cells and
frames (one made from polymer clay) with filled with resin over small items
http://sherrihaab.com/extra.php?gallery
(orange butterfly)
for
many more ideas on using epoxies in smaller "cells", see
Liquid Clay > Cells (...then just substitute.
resin for liquid clay)
..some possibilities:
....cloissonne,
"stained glass" effects, filling in stamped impressions, using
clay extrusions as dams, etc.
.......(I
do faux cloisonne with "cold enamel" (a pre-colored
2-part resin, see below). Sue
... make "windows"
or other clear sheets by pouring resin into a wood frame
"cell" (can use modeling clay "retaining wall" temporarily
around wood edges to so won't leak out)
TRAYS,
etc. ....can create your own larger tray (resin "cast" in
a permanent "container")
...if use bare wood, create
dam around perimeter with 1/2" half-round wood molding strips, etc
...seal
all wood (see above), making sure to get gaps around
joins ...and apply masking tape under edge to prevent resin sticking there
...pour
resin ...wipe drips... cure
...can decoupage something on wood before
resin (seal)... or even cover tiles
...Cindy's
photo her tray made with Envirotex Lite http://community.webshots.com/album/31233907NwmWHqLFrJ
large "cells" could also be things like faux ponds, puddles, lakes, etc., in miniature scenes (see below in Faux Water)
....(walls or depressions could also be created on, or with, paper, foils, metal, wood, etc....or just about any surface that's not meltable in a bit of heat)
..."hard"
epoxy resins (like Ultra Glo or Aristocrat Liquid
Glass) give a hard, transparent result
... "soft"
epoxy resins (like Acrylic Water, Aristocrat Liquid Illusion) give a rubbery,
transparent result
(either can be colored throughout, or have layers
of diff. colors or saturations... using an uncolored layer on top can give an
esp. realistic look)
still
water ...larger cells could
be things like faux ponds, puddles, lakes, etc., in miniature
scenes
...can create smooth-surfaced,
shallow pools (up to 1/2" deep for hard epoxies, any depth
for soft epoxies)
...for water deeper than 1/2", use a polyester
resin... or use a soft epoxy resin ...or:
......could
apply layer of hard epoxy as final hard surface, over cured soft epoxy?
......could
cast hard epoxy resin deeper than 1/2" (in 4 1/8" layers)?... will just
be amber from too much resin depth, or intentionally color it
colors
of water:
...deep water is dark. Lex
...deep water
is usually greenish to blackish, not blue
....large bodies of water are almost black in the middle,
almost white at edges. Peter&Maryjane
...calm stagnant water
is brown
...ponds, harbors or swampy areas can have greens
and browns
....fast
running streams are light blue or even white
....to create
moving water, white or light paint can be dry brushed or
sponged on top of the harder resins, after
curing
...shallow moving water can be clear to the bottom,
or can be more opaque due to muddy sediment.
...for simulating clear
or semi-clear water, phathalo green acrylic paint (Delta Ceramcoat)
is a great color
...you can also create, increase, or add different
patches, of color by painting or otherwise coloring
the bottom of the depression before adding resin
...since
a water's color gets less saturated as it becomes shallower, simply
painting darker colors in center of the water, then progressively
lighter tints toward the water's banks can create the illusion of many different
depths, and much deeper water (even though the resin is actually all the same
depth)
lots of info and also more links on using
epoxy resin to make water effects at about.com
http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniaturebasics/p/epoxres.htm
I
have used depressions
in polymer clay to pour resin into to make rock "pools"
(then put clay mermaids, turtles, in them).
Sue Heaser
...other
materials can also be used to make depressions to hold the resin, like:
(foams,
plywood, papier mache over wire mesh, cardboard or cardstock
.... Hydrocal-plaster-soaked squares of newspaper, or Hydrocal
Lightweight, claylike Mold-A-Scene Plaster, regular plaster,
etc., etc.
I
have some baked polymer items (like fish) sitting in
resin "ponds" (non-polymer pond depressions?)
which are 10 years old and absolutely fine still. ....many
in the miniatures world have done this. Sue
Heaser
.....fish
can be installed using fine fishing line or wire to hold in place
as you fill in the pond (wire will show??). Lysle?
lesson
on putting miniature polymer clay tadpoles (and greenery) in epoxy resin
inside miniature bottle, in several layers (...layers are thicker
than 1/8" ea though, which is okay since these are miniatures??)
http://miniatures.about.com/od/miniatureprojects/ss/tadpolejar.htm
lesson
on making a pond & waterfall with "hard"
epoxy resin (Envirotex) + Styrofoam, plastic wrap,
Plaster of Paris, acrylic paints, etc
...also has polymer
fish, artificial grasses, cattails
http://members.tripod.com/~garnettes_miniatures/TUTORIALS/MiniPondBasics.html
lesson
on making ponds & waterfalls with fish
glued to the bottom of stone-wall pools (with hard epoxy...Envirotex
Lite)
http://www.miaa.com/how_waterfall.htm
(gone?)
lesson
on using Envirotex Lite to give a glossy coating just on top
of a pool (of gray plaster)
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips14/tips14.html#fountain
lesson
on making ponds with epoxy & polyester
resin
http://members.tripod.com/~garnettes_miniatures/TUTORIALS/MiniPondBasics.html
...start
with a piece of 1 inch thick styrofoam for the base. Then start adding
little scraps of styrofoam as in any basic landscaping technique. If you want,
build up an area for a waterfall.
Gouge out a hole in the styrofoam to make
the pond.
....Cover the whole thing with plaster. Make sure there are
NO holes in the plaster coat, as resin will melt right through your styrofoam
pond.
Once its dry, paint the rocks with the different shades
of brown.
The bottom of the pond should be shades of blue/green. Make
it darker in the middle (deep area) and very light at the outer edges. Paint the
inside of the pond and parts of the waterfall with dark and light mossy greens.
Let that dry.
Working on small areas at a time; where ever you want a spot
of fake moss, dab on glue using a brush. Then sprinkle on a bit
of the green landscape material. You can also add bits of real moss,
sticks etc. Continue on, until you have the desired effect you want.
I
like to make tall grasses and cattails to place around the water's edge.
When all the landscape material is in place, take a piece of plastic wrap
and fasten it to the place where the waterfall will be. (this part
can be hidden with rocks or shrubery. Drape it down your waterfall making sure
the it hangs, perfectly straight. (Water drops straight down). At the bottom fasten
it down. Move the base around a bit, until you get 'just the right look'.
Starting
at the top of the fall; pour out a small amount of resin and let it flow
into the pond.
Add some resin to the pond (about half full).
Now is the time to add some fimo fish, for that special touch.
JUST
for bubbles or a frothy look, at the bottom of the falls:
...using
polyester resin: stir the base of the fall, with a tooth pic. The
more you churn it up the frothier it will get.
...or, using a one-part meltable
gel resin (floral setting resin) Scenic Water: insert a small cocktail
straw into the resin at the base of the falls and blow gently...let set until
the falls stiffen.
Pour more resin down the falls, then stir
or blow more bubbles.
Let set and add more fish if desired.
Finish
pouring the falls and filling the pond. Stir or bl
