Preparing
the clay (for painting on
top of it)
Acrylic paints
(all uses)
...gen. info ...other uses
...metallic,
pearlescent & glitter acrylic paints (reg.bodied)
.........making your own metallic/pearl. paints
...thin-bodied
acrylics
........Neopaque (non-metallic) ...Lumiere + LunaLights (metallic)
...other acrylic paints (?), etc.
...acrylic
"mediums"
Oils + oil-like
paints, etc.
.....true oils + oil pastels
....heat
set oils (Genesis)
....water-miscible
"oils" (water-mixable... Max, Artisan)
Water-Soluble
paints (permanently soluble) --watercolors, tempera
Misc. re paints... &
other paints
Colored Pencils
Pastels
Chalks
Dyes
Stencils, etc.
Brushes
Antiquing
...& patinas
Crackling, stretching,
& manipulating paint
...acrylic paints, inks...tempera...clear finishes...etc.
Misc.
(re all paints + books/etc.)
Polymer
"paintings"
...liquid clay
...thinned solid clay
...relief
& onlay
......drawn outline on wood, masonite, fabric
......drawn
outline under glass, acrylic, translucent papers
...other
materials & ways
...misc. re "paintings"
Printing
(with paints & inks)
....screenprinting (reg, w/ "frames")
.......simpler
stencils
....PhotoEZ ...Print Gocco (no reg. frames, photosensitive)
(Photosensitive) polymer plates for
texture plates
PAINTS & PAINTING & DRAWING, etc.
--see
info on markers & inks, dip pens used with inks,
etc, in Letters-Inks
RAW clay (using paint on or in):
... oil
paints can be used, but be sure to bake after application to thoroughly
dry them (5 min at 250) ...(some types of "enamel" aren't good)
......"water-mixable
oils" such as Artisan by Winsor Newton
or Max...on raw clay... use with water ...let dry, but also bake to set
....acrylic paints can be used on top of clay in various ways, or between
clay sheets, but let dry thoroughly before baking because acrylic
paints can cause bubbling in the clay if they are
baked inside clay while wet (they still contain moisture, which
turns to steam when heated... a little may be okay, esp. if tube paint)
BAKED clay (using paint on):
....oil paints can be used
on top but probably best to bake after application to thoroughly dry
them (5 min at 250)...(some types of "enamel" aren't good)
......"water-mixable
oils" such as Artisan by Winsor Newton, or Max
...on baked clay... use with water...let dry, but also bake to set
....acrylic paints can be used on top (but may need several layers
for best coverage, and/or see gesso below in Prep.for Painting)
.........(if
using the "heat set acrylics" like Genesis, then bake afterward
to cure)
You can, of course, also mix your own paint colors by buying several basic colors, along with white and black (see Color)
PREPARING the clay for Painting Opaquely ON TOP of it
(see more on preparations for various paints & chalks, etc., below in their individual categories)
(see just above for summary of paints to use)
Generally color is built into the clay,
since virtually any color can be mixed when using clay, but some people (especially
sculptors and those who haven't done other things with polymer clay) add color
by painting on top of the clay instead.
Some who build color in for all other
parts of a sculpt, e.g., may still use paints and other mediums on top of clay
for thin washes to create lip and cheek color over skin-colored clay though.
....(If
using Sculpey clays to paint on), in general it's better to use Super
Sculpey clay rather than plain white original
Sculpey in the box, since SS is so much stronger... long
term your pieces will hold up better using it. Jodi Creager
....SuperSculpey
(not Sculpey III) baked at a slightly higher temp (just under 300 degrees)
will darken, but it also
proves to make the clay fairly strong.
Katherine Dewey (...so
especially good if you will be painting the baked SS or covering it with more
clay)
...Kathy Dewey uses Premo
beige clay, then paints over it (she is a renowned artist with two books on
sculpting). Patty B. (was this a change from SS?)
In order to paint on baked clay, the clay must first at least be cleaned, and possibly primed, to make the paint adhere well:
CLEANING:
oils (including
hand oils) and possibly waxes on the surface of the
clay can keep water-based paints from sticking well
to the clay, or cause them to bead up
(... underbaked
clay will
also cause these problems)
... so before painting anything on
polymer, degrease the surface first by using a little
soap and water and a toothbrush, then rinse ( this removes
any residue that remains on the surface after baking
and gives the piece a better tooth for the paint to cling). Jodi
........
I have also used concentrated dishwashing liquid to de-grease clay
- you then have to rinse under the tap and dry
it with a tissue, but it works too.
...or degrease with alcohol ...alcohol based
solvents: surgical spirit, isopropyl, methylated spirits, denatured alcohol
(many of these are virtually identical but under different names in different
countries)... I expect you could use gin or vodka if you wanted (but what a waste!)
Sue
.......I think they all just evaporate so quickly
that they do not have a chance to attack the clay, just degrease the surface.
......If you brush over the surface of baked polyclay with methylated spirit
(denatured alcohol) you can get even the thinnest acrylic washes to stick
without beading. Nail varnish remover works as well..... I get some good
watercolour effects on clay like this.
...I had a bit of problem
with using too much nail polish remover
at one time - that is acetone based
and did crack the clay. Sue
... If you are painting
on Fimo, it is better to seal the surface first with
matt or gloss varnish before degreasing and painting
... this stops the paint bleeding into the clay in time - only a problem with
Fimo in my experience, though. . .Sue
...the shiney
areas on your clay probably mean that you have tended to over-smooth
the clay more in certain areas with either a tool or your
finger... to remove the shine, you can 'wet' the surface with
water and rub ...something I recommend to do before painting
anyway. Jodi
PRIMING:
since acrylic paints are somewhat translucent,
one or more coats of white or light paint or
gesso underneath may be necessary before beginning to "paint"
(see also Dipping, just below)
.....gesso
(also called a "ground" or "size")
is just a very opaque acrylic paint, used for priming
canvas and other surfaces to receive paint
.......it comes in white, black,
gray and a very few other colors (most common is white)... most of
the major paint companies put out some version of gesso ...
there is also a relatively new "clear" gesso which leaves a very
nice "tooth" on the surface for holding paint
...."gesso has been around for a long time and there are many recipes
for its ingredients... one ingredient is calcium hydroxate (plaster) or
similar material which is what gives it "tooth" for drawing the paint
into the ground (as opposed to floating on top).. gesso gives a flexible
adhesion, which keeps paint from flaking off since canvas tends to expand
and contract with environmental condition changes." Bob Tavis
....using
gesso will help paint stick better, and allow it
to appear richer and more opaque (...then may
need fewer layers)
......I
too would start with a one coat of gesso before painting
(.... thin it 50/50 with water and do maybe two coats , drying
well in between)... Jodi
....I
paint on pc all the time, oil paints and acrylics.... I simply use a gesso
primer first, then corresponding sealer. I have pieces that are over 15 years
old that still look 'new.'
...or instead of a white
or light coat, a particular primer color which
is most suited for the piece can be used, and
layers of paint may be built up over it (... could
be a dark color for shadows, or whatever basic color you want to show).
....if
you are painting acrylics on Fimo
in particular, it is better to seal the surface first with matt or gloss
varnish, then degrease and paint.... this stops the paint
bleeding into the clay in time - only a problem with
Fimo in my experience, though. . .Sue
...gesso
is for use on both porous and non-porous surfaces.... coats textured
surfaces to create an even, smooth, white non-porous painting surface yet on the
other hand creates a slight texture or "tooth" over smooth surfaces for easier
paint adhesion...apply over dark colors or surfaces when basecoating in a lighter
color - results in fewer layers of paint and will keep your lighter basecoat color
brighter
.......also
ideal for basecoating paper mâché, canvas, masonite, tin cans, shortening
cans, etc
.......can also be used to fill in
slight imperfections in wood
.......it can be sanded when
dry for an even smoother surface. rainee
....it
also dries fast! To keep ridges from forming, paint
quickly, do not try to put too much on your brush, and don't use a sponge brush.
J. Smith
....I suggest priming it with light coats of Floquil
or Krylon primer prior to painting.
....You can use
automotive bumper spray primer ( made for vinyl ) or any
good primer as a base then paint away (but what about propellants
in sprays later reacting with cl
I might sand a little first to get the paint to stick better .... Black Feather ...(just a little... maybe with steel wool?)
DIPPING
....Oborochann
dips her small baked clay figures into diluted acrylic paint to give an
even overall covering and avoid brushmarks (using a wire through
the top loop in the item).... pops any bubbles she sees ... then hangs them to
drip dry, removing with a brush the drip that forms initially ... could also be
used for priming
....the also then adds details with a pigment pen or
or dots of acrylic paint stamped on (for more on this, see
Letters-Inks > Inks for Drawing & Writing)
....and
also then dips the item in clear gloss finish the same way
as into the paint --see more on that technique in
Finishes
> Dipping, under Varathane)
http://oborochann.deviantart.com/art/Octopus-Charm-Tutorial-45828570
(photos in middle of page)
(...for
adding color by using washes of paint or chalks, et c., on flesh-colored
clay for coloring only cheeks, lips, eyes, hair or other areas --rather
than painting opaquely over all the clay -- see Heads
> Skin > Coloring Skin
. . . and also below in Acrylics,
Water-Miscible Oils, Chalks, and maybe more)
General Info
Acrylic
paints are the paints used most often to "paint" on baked polymer
clay, but they are also with clay used in various other ways
as well.
.....(for painting on baked clay
and dipping clay in diluted paint, see above in Preparing the
Clay before painting).
The problem with using acrylic paints
inside raw clay is that they contain water,
and water can turn to steam in the oven and physically bubble
up under the clay or create areas of opaqueness and plaquing
....however, some clayers have successfully used acrylics in raw clay (as
opposed to using them on clay then allowing to dry), but they feel
that only a little acrylic can be used, and that it should be well-distributed
in the clay so there aren't larger pools of moisture
...it may also
be that the acrylic paints in tubes work better because they are more concentrated
color, with less water
...bubbles can arise in any clay, but plaquing
may not show up much in opaque clays (or a small amount of white
opaque clay might be added when mixing to hide them)
(some examples
of the other ways acrylic paints can be used with clay:)
...... washes (paints
thinned with water or acrylic mediums for
some translucency or backgrounds, etc.)
......dry
brushed (paint worked into dry bristles then applied very lightly-- from just
the tips)
......antiquing
(rubbing paint all over a sculpt or textured clay, then wiping off
the topmost surface, leaving paint only in the crevices).. usually a dark brown
......highlighting a stamped or textured area, often with metallic
paints ...can be different colors (can also then flatten the textured
area)
......ladled on and shaped in relief as pastes
(or painting details with a tiny brush in the normal way)
......applied
on top of raw clay (for example in mokume gane... or when applied,
dried, and then used for stretching to crackle, etc.)
(or combine any
of these uses)
A coat of
finish may be applied afterward only if you want (see
Finishes)... antiquing may be done afterwards also, if desired.
...I use no sealer or varnish unless I desire a glossy finish, e.
g. shiny eyes. Katherine Dewey
...Usually,
when I apply (a thicker layer? of) acrylic paint on a clay surface, I'll cover
it with a thin layer of TLS for protection from scratching off,
etc.). Desiree
...the best (and cheapest) sealant that I've used is diluted
PVA glue (white glue). after you've drawn or watercolored
on clay ...this works wonderfully well. As it's water based, one can dilute it
with water to whatever consistency one needs.....The beauty of this polymeric
glue is that it doesn't react with clay plasticisers, will withstand baking
temperatures and is completely clear when it dries. ... Alan V.
(for metallic or pearlescent acrylics in particular, see below in "Metallics". . . though they can be used in the same ways as regular acrylics)
Acrylic paints -especially quality artists' paints like Winsor Newton- seem to be the best for clay
tube acrylic paints are often better to use on clay
(and possibly in clay) than the bottled acrylic
"craft" paints
...in tube paints,
there's more of the acrylic (thicker, less watered down), they stick
much better, and they fade less in the long term
.....(BRANDS--more
below) I find that the brands Grumbacher
and Windsor Newton have a better 'stick-ability'. Jodi
Creager
...of all of the
acrylic paint brands, Liquitex (jar?) seems to adhere the best.
Katherine Dewey
....I have been painting polymer clay
for jewellery, minis, and dolls for about 15 years and
......I find the most
important thing is to get good quality "artist's
acrylics" like Liquitex or Winsor Newton, because
some cheaper
craft paints may bleed
or react (there's no need to use ceramic
or specialty paints unless you are deliberately seeking special effects). Sue
...I
usually change to Liquitex or Golden if I'm looking for
translucent paints (...even with those brands you have
to double check the label to make sure they ARE translucent).
...If you're just using acrylic paint as
a wash or for
antiquing, either thicker or thinner types will
work
......but if you want a more opaque antiquing
effect, the thicker acrylics in a tube or a jar seem
to work better
HOWEVER?
"craft" paints in bottles all tend
to be much more opaque, which can sometimes be a useful trait
.... I sometimes like using inexpensive
paints in the 2-ounce bottles because they don't dry
instantly like the higher-quality acrylics do, so I have a little
longer open time to work with them (they have more water). Irene
.....I can recomend either Folk Art or Americana's acrylic paint....they
both have much more body to them
........re Folk Art
paints, the containers with the gold caps are called "artists'
pigment" colors, and have the highest pigment content in the line. Diane
......the
paint I consistently use now is Americana's DecoArt... colors are
bright; the paint is creamy, and I get good coverage
......I
learned to paint using Delta CeramCoat, but
the company was sold several years ago and I feel they have started skimping on
how much pigment they use. J. Smith
.....I don't much care for Apple
Barrel (even though it is made by Plaid who also make Folk Art)...
Apple Barrel doesn't have as much pigment in it as other brands.
........if
you decide to use the cheaper Ceramcoat acrylics, make sure
to "color test first, especially if you paint onto the wet clay
or paint onto baked clay and rebake (those paints tolerate the heat, but
they can get a minor "color
shift" that is good to know about before you bake it on your good
stuff)
.......however, for painting small things (like
eyes, your signature, tipping, etc.) the Creamcoat bunch
are also the CHEAPEST
...I
usually have to add a drop of dish soap to bottled
acrylic paint for
painting.
....... if you l put a drop of liquid Ivory in your water that
you use to thin your paints the paint will not bead up
Some of the cheaper
craft-type paints
(espeically reds) may begin to bleed
after a year or so.
...the (bottled?)
red acrylic I painted on (for lipstick) bled
...and then embedded
itself into the clay and turned orange... the whole area around the mouth
was orange way into the clay so that light sanding would not remove it. I had
to cut out the stain and rebuild the mouth... I don't know if adding another color
to it might contain the migrating red....Dawn
....That's happened to me too...it
was with one of the acrylic craft
paints, I've had better luck staying
with Liquitex, but its still chancy, especially with reds.
Sarajane
.......Liquitex
red is the best red I have used ... and Folk Art green is the
best green I have used. Annette
....What might help is to coat the area with matte or
gloss medium and let it dry before painting with the red; a sort of barrier
layer. . . I'm also intrigued by the idea of using the relatively new "clear"
gesso for this purpose as it leaves a very nice "tooth" on the surface. Halla
... always coat the
cured clay with a layer of matt varnish (acrylic or
water or spirit-based) before you paint. This prevents
any bleeding or adverse reactions. My samples treated like this, using Fimo
spirit-based varnish, show no problems after 3 years so far.. . .Sue Heaser
....... I tried Flecto
Varathane as a barrier layer and the cheap red acrylic craft paint... not only
spread, it also turned orange-er.... I'm thinking its best to use that kind of
paint on paper projects and not PC (it was fine with Liquitex paints though).
Sarajane
You can also 'set'
the paint with a 150-250 degree bake
for only 10 min. or so (though it's not
necessary)
...acrylic paint will be much harder and "baked
on" if you bake it after painting
...most acrylic
paints can bubble up
or craze when they are heated (
too hot, or too long?, but
okay if a little or thicker tube acyrlics?).
...paints intended for fabic painting and
heat setting, will work with the clay also. Matilda
...
I can't scrape the acyilic paint off no matter
how hard I try, if it's been baked.
thin and even coats of acrylic paint are the best ... and load your brush lightly. Annette
to minimize brush strokes (in larger areas?), use a nice sable brush dipped in water (a tip I learned from Lisa Pavelka in using her PolyGlaze). TrinaWhen painting, I suggest that you use a flat brush rather than a round brush... one that will cover the most area for the project you are using..... for wide coverage, I have a large assortment of flat brushes with chisel points..
rubber-tipped "brushes" can also be used to apply paint just where it's wanted when using acrylics or acrylic mixes
lessons
and techniques for painting on miniatures ... with various paints
http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/clinic.htm
So
I can paint small pieces more easily,
I attach a small object to the top of the golf tee with Fun Tack
......
the tees can then be stuck into floral foam or something similar for drying. Cynthia
I paint in thin washes
of acrylic paint, as opposed to one or two thick coats, to achieve the wonderful
rich and semi-translucent look (of that beautiful skin on the African
American dolls we are known for)
...I find that the paint sticks better
on the polymer if it is applied in this manner ....being sure to let dry
throughly in-between washes. Jodi
Don't
use water to thin
your acrylic paints...they will bead up and
not adhere as well to the clay
. . . .
. instead thin them with gesso, or an acrylic medium, or
Varathane (acrylic wood finish)
....you can thin the consistency of
the paint to make washes and tints... or just to make thinner
coats). Sarajane
...I tint Varathane
with regular acrylic paints for glazes and antiquing.....
I'm sure you could use Pinata inks (alcohol-based), too. Kathy W.
...mixing
a few drops of Future floor finish into the paint on your palette
will also make it adhere better to baked clay. Kathy R
I
rather like thin washes of acrylic paints (over a solid
color?) which are more translucent than solid applications of paint
(as a background or a ground colour).
......I find that when
I paint in washes though, I have to use a dry brush, or
otherwise the paint beads on the surface.
..... a particular
color of acrylic paint used as a
primer( which is most suited for the piece) could be used instead of
white primer, with layers
of paint built up over it (...the primer could be a dark
color for shadows, e.g., or whatever basic color you want to show through).
......my animals
are all sculpted in a base color clay, a color close to
the natural fur, feathers, or scales color to reduce painting.
..........painting for these creatures is usually a light drybrushing,
followed by washes and glazes.
..........Katherine's
long lesson on texturing and coloring the fur of her sculpted
lifelike mouse (bottom of page, under Finishing)
..she first
uses titanium white acrylic paint on a dry brush
over the whole mouse
...... then uses raw sienna/burnt umber-colored
clays with a bit of water to create a staining
wash the consistency of cream to go lightly over the whole mouse a couple
of times, letting dry between
...... then she highlights with
dry brush (white on certain areas, or pink wash of raw sienna, cadmium red, and
white for nose/mouth/ears): http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_paint_tips_techniques/article/0,,HGTV_3768_1389670,00.html
tips for common painting techniques
--drybrush, washes, detail ...Polychrome
Finishing Tech's- by Katherine Dewey
http://www.elvenwork.com/tips.html
When I screw up, I use a Q-tip wet w/ hair spray to remove both Future Floor Wax and acrylic paint (on baked/cooled clay).
to make shiny
enamel-looking paint, acrylic paints
can be mixed with Varathane or Future (..little or a lot)
....... mix
water-based polyurethane (Varathane) half and half with acrylic
paints ("Frames
with Flair" by Suzanne McNeill)
........for a dimensional look that can be applied with squeeze
bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking
soda to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp of the paint. MJ
...to
get a "glazed pottery" look like Fiestaware style.. mix
acrylics with Future, then paint with it. carlie
......mixing
a few drops of Future into the paint on your palette will make it
adhere better to baked clay too. Kathy R
"interference"
paints. . . surfaces painted with these colors look different colors
depending on the angle at which they are viewed
and the angle of the light striking the surface. These paints contain tiny flakes
of mica, coated with titanium dioxide, which enable the paint to refract
its complementary color
.....they can be used alone,
or mixed with non-interference acrylic paints, or layered translucently
over an already painted area. Judy (see interference powders
in Powders)
(from a message re terra cotta) . . . Patio Paints (check out michaels)... acrylic?.... are supposedly designed to be outdoors, if that is your concern.
I suggest you try water mixable oils instead, such as Artisan by Winsor Newton because they work so well.. Katherine Dewey (see details below)
To create a durable, soft, and washable fabric paint for fabrics from regular acrylic craft paints, mix them with Textile Medium (it's in the same rack as the acrylic paints). Sheila in NC
other uses & misc.
Katherine
Dewey's many tips re painting on clay
sculpts...
drybrushing, etc.
http://www.elvenwork.com/tips.html#nine
Judi Maddigan's polymer clay painting tips for faces (also glazes,
gen. info, etc.)
http://www.angelslanding.com/pushmolds/paint.html
... http://www.angelslanding.com/pushmolds/swplate.html
Christel's
very complete lesson on making & coloring a troll (or other)
face & head with acrylic paints
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/may2001/troll.html
Chrissie's
figures are completely covered (arm/legs skin,etc) with opaque acrylic
paints (+gloss med.?)... somewhat flat appearance of colors
http://pageperso.aol.fr/Paithian1/Gallery.htm
Laukkonen
's lesson on making faux abalone, using black (acrylic)
paint on each mini-stack of layers, indented with fingers, re-cubed, then
cut (or cut with wavy blade) http://members.aol.com/Laukkonen/abalone.html
(see more in Faux-Many)
...for lighter
mother-of-pearl, but don't use black paint and don't mix black into the pearl
or silver clay.
(see below in Misc., for achieving a crackle finish from stretching metallic acrylic after drying)
thinned
acrylic paints (or colored white glues, or possibly liquid clays) can be combed,
swirled or otherwise created in interesting patterns (then allowed
to dry) for interesting and possibly textured sheets of pattern
......created
on a slick surface (glass, freezer paper, silicone sheet, etc).... then
attached to other surfaces, including clay
......or the paints could be swirled
directly on a permanent surface like clay
...Jana
Ewy's ("faux
vinyl") lesson on pressing
4-7 colors of acrylic paints (thinned to cream consistency) between
2 sheets of freezer paper (coated sides in) after .. she places second
sheet on the painted first sheet, pressing paint outward toward edges before removing
top sheet and allowing to dry... she uses to cover boxes (with spray adhesive)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_paper_crafts_boxes/article/0,,hgtv_3289_1376364,00.html
.......she zigzagged the colors (trying not to overlap
them) onto the shiny side of freezer paper, then put *another* sheet
of freezer paper, shiny side down, onto the paints; then she pressed
the paint between the sheets (almost) out to all edges and corners with her finger
which also caused the paint to cover the interior completely (and avoids bubbles).
.......when she pulled the papers apart, there was a sort-of wavy
pattern created
........let dry about 12 hrs. and remove
the "vinyl" sheets.
........later, use spray adhesive (or other dry
adhesive?) to adhere to boxes, put on cards, etc. (the photos only
show one or two variations)
....... I noticed was the "good sides" of each
vinyl sheet were not shiny, and had to be varnished to make them
shiny too...or the back sides could be used (they were nice but didn't have that
neat secondary pattern)
....the pattern could be varied by how a finger
is dragged, or maybe if other manipulations (like combing) were
done first.
....it would be neat to do the same with liquid clays.
Since they have to be baked, I don't think freezer paper would work (don't know
what the coating is comprised of) but 2 pieces of metal or glass
might work ...or maybe aluminum foil would be better since it could be
*peeled* off as she did (that sort of "pulled" the pattern into a slightly different
effect).
..........(.I put a few lines and drops
of colored liquid clay directly on a sheet of clay
, then I sandwiched it between another sheet (of clay?), smooshed
and separated. It came out pretty good. Alicia)
...Another
neat pattern would be to make "Rorschach" prints ("ink blots")
with the liquid clays or with regular paints. I had a great time
one day *for hours* just using tube watercolors on squares of plain paper, folding,
and opening to reveal the symmetrical pattern . . . I was totally mesmerized and
had a hard time stopping <g>
... As for using the "vinyl" later
with clay, one thing would be to glue shapes or cut-outs of the
patterns onto regular clay, maybe with a molded shape on top. Or if using liquid
clay, I guess I'd try wrapping it around boxes, pens, etc., the
same way she did, or using on cards, etc. Would make a great looking postcard,
though it would need to be backed with cardstock or clay. There's probably
lots more though... Diane B.
....(I've even done something similar with acrylic
paints squirted in shapes on aluminum foil, then removed and added
to a t-shirt (with more acrylic paint), etc., but hadn't thought
to use a second sheet like she did.
...(see Kathy R's similar
technique for making a texture plate
with 3-D or smooth texture paint on folded cardstock by allowing the paint
to sit a while to thicken up, in Textures
> Making your own)
...also see Misc
> Marbling for more ways to use various paints (on starch, etc), to
create marbled, dragged, patterns
similar lesson using tacky white glue (1/2 c) mixed with acrylic paint (1 tsp) to create sheets of pattern http://crafterspick.com/02vinyl.html
for a dimensional paint that can be applied with squeeze bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking soda to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp acrylic paint. MJ
Styli'stick
paint, from Pébéo... some kind of acrylic paint which can be ironed onto clothing-fabric
(temporarily) with slik setting after drying 24 hrs. ...dries to a soft
film ...may be peeled off and used on other fabric
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayArticle?articleNum=as0138&channelid=3
according
to info at trade shows, both (thoroughly cured) polymer clay
and acrylic craft paints are safe for use in scrapbooking...regular
acrylic paints will buckle paper, though..... (in
order to attach the polymer piece to the page though, you must use an acid
free glue --best I've found is Glue
Dots or Red line Tacky Tape). Laurie D'
(... for which inks
are acid-free, see Letters & Inks)
(.....and
for ideas on scrapbooking, see Cards
> Greeting Cards & Scrapbooking)
antiquing
or highlighting dimensional textures or impressions created with stamps,
texture sheets, or molds
(see much more
about antiquing and highlighting in Molds
> Highlighting, etc. and in Powders)
...Maureen C antiques and/or colors the upraised segments
with acrylic paints (thinned for soft effect?)
...(or could use inks,
fluid chalks, or various inclusions in clear mediums see below in making your
own metallic paints, etc.)
http://www.weefolk.com/rstamps.htm
(may be gone?)
.. textured sheets which have
been antiqiued or highlighted with various paints can also be flattened
and still retain the pattern in the flat sheet
(see
more on that technique in Texture
> Flattening Antiqued and/or Highlighted texture sheets)
acrylic
gel medium ... comes in versions from very soft
to very stiff, to some with fibers or sand in it. ....made
by both Golden and Liquitex
...it tints up beautifully
with just about any paint or paint pigment you want to
put in it.
.......it looks white, and when you add tint it will look very
pale. However, the stuff winds up drying clear, so your
original colors show through.
...comes in glossy, semi-gloss, and
flat ...takes about 24 hours to cure completely (lets you work with it longer).
(It was originally set up FOR paper or canvas, and definitely works on polyclay
--I used it to make my dragon scales originally).
Buy
a bottle of "extender" (any brand) which makes the paint more translucent
and also increases it's "open" time, which means
that the paint stays workable for a longer time.
.... If you brush it on and
let it sit after you get it where you want it, the brush marks will "flow
out" of the surface.
..."Student" grade would cost a lot less, but, the colors
are less saturated and contain more "filler" than the artist grade. Those can
be mixed with the extender, as well, to take out the brush texture. Elizabeth
what
I would try if you want to use a spray... is go to walmart or
a hobbyshop and pick up a small Testors airbrush .... the kind that uses
a can of compressed air that is usually in the same area of the shelves...
then you can mix your own spraypaint using only safe for polymer acrylics and
water... you can then reuse the cheap airbrush anytime you want to paint something
like that again … Tommie
....or buy an artist’s manual sprayer …Sue
Heaser
Metallic
..Pearlescent ..Iridescent + Glitter
acrylic paints (regular bodied)
( for pearlescent inks, see Letters-Inks)
Using
metallic acrylic paints is so much simpler than using metallic
powders... wish I'd discovered
them years ago!
.... The great thing is that metallic acrylic paints can be
used the same ways as metallic powders can -- that is,
painted onto unbaked or baked clay, then baked -- with no
problems whatsoever..
....the advantages are that the colors are REALLY
nice... the paints are inexpensive
.... you don't have to mess with the flying dust particles of powders
.....never
have to glaze after using a
powder because it could rub off. ...using the paints is so much
simpler (if applied well, powders don't need sealing tho).
Iridescent,
pearlescent, interference, and metallic acrylics
combine conventional pigments with powdered mica (aluminum silicate),
etc.
...colors have shimmering or reflective
characteristics, depending on the coarseness or fineness of the powder
...interference
paints are "made from titanium coated mica flakes with an outer layer of
a transparent, light-absorbing colorant rather than traditional pigments"?
....some
metallic paint lines offer only "metal"
colors like gold,copper,silver (including the thicker "metallic"
tube acrylic paints)
.........some lines may also
offer interference metallic "colors" though (Golden)
....some
do offer metallic colors in red, blue, green, etc., though
........ Lascaux pearlescents, "artist quality"(many)
colors... http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/66/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1004
SOME
BRANDS of acrylic metallics
...
I prefer Liquitex and Golden for
their metallic-type paints, as I haven't had as much luck with Creamcoat
bunch.
.......Liquitex acrylic paint's interference or
iridescent colors are nice...
...Heather uses
Plaid and DecoArt brand metallics (see her
lesson just below)
...What
I used is called Accent- Jewelry Colour (acrylic "craft"
paints). ....they are water based and go on quite nicely
when applied to unbaked clay... baked as normal.
......I
have squeeze bottles of metallic acrylic paint (Folk Art
metallics by Plaid), and had forgotten about them!!...
haven't tried them yet though
.........the bottle mentions "heavy
pigmentation for maximum coverage" and "longer open time"...shake
well... for regular use, let dry 1 hr.
.........it also says
transparent or watercolor effects can
be achieved by mixing these with (Folk Art) Extender ...on brush.
Diane B.
...I have some old Tulip
Colorpoint metallic paints (for applying dots of color in patterns
on t-shirts, etc.) ...wonder if they would work in the same way
I
bought Plaid's Folk Art Metallic Acrylic Paints from
Michaels and absolutely love them... they are a much cheaper than some
of the other paints used for dichroic, and personally I would say they are just
as good ($2 for a 2 ounce bottle, and sometimes on sale)....they also come in
dozens of metallic, shimmery, colors and shades ...the colors, texture,
application and end results seems to be exactly the same as some of the other
paints used for dichroic
... I use them for crackling but also painting
(see more below in Crackling)
....I've put it on before curing
as well as after
....and I've dipped the painted pieces in Varathane,
or UTEE. Shannon
....I got some at Ace Hardware, and they're just regular
old craft paints, they were in the home painting section and used to do stencils
..If
they're not pearly enough the way they are you can also just add (more)
mica powder. Nancy
Metallic mica powders can be mixed into an adhesive medium ... (some examples would be glues, sealers, liquid clays, paints, Diluent, etc.).
I love to "tip" (highlight) my clay rose earrings in gold or silver to give a extra elegant look.
(you can also make your own metallic, pearlescent or glitter acrylic paints... see below in "Making Your Own Metallics")
If acrylic paint is baked on clay, it's impossible to scrape it off afterwards no matter how hard I try.
Heather
P's lesson on using metallic acrylic paints (like Plaid
and DecoArt brands) with stamping
(..or texturing)
.... she applies paint to stamp with a cosmetic
sponge .... stamps scrap clay ... then uses sponge to apply a diff.
color(s) of metallic paint to the upper areas (highlighting) ... lets
dry
http://www.humblebeads.com/tip7.html
(...in this case, she also trims clay to desired shape...then adds simple
cane slices to the edges of the clay... trims them to only a small
frame ... bakes... coats with Future--necessary?)
Lucy
A's paints all parts of her mini shoes
w/ gesso first, then with several layers of pearlescent inks
(and fancy nail polishes), but could have used metallic acrylic
paints instead
http://www.lucyarnold.com/miniature_shoes.htm
Emma
R's illuminare beads ...suface of the "base" clay (possibly marbled clays)
has been colored randomly with pearlescent inks or paints (possibly
thin-bodied ones like Daler-Rowney's Pearlescent Liquid Acrylic Colours, or heat
set Lumieres) or mica powders or could have been something similar using
a carrier of translucent clay or liquid clay, etc.
... onlays of various
types are then added and rolled down into the surface (cane slices, curving ribbons
of watercolor sheets, etc.)
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/2004sept/emma.html
Mary V's dragon painted with
multi-colors of metallic paint http://members7.clubphoto.com/gail412387/Marys_little_People_and_Animals/
(gone?)
...(see more links
below)
(Lumiere paints
just below are also metallic acrylic paints, but they are thin-bodied
and are especially strong colors
...can use both metallic paints in
many of the same ways)
GLITTER
acrylic paints
Liquigems Acrylic Glitter Paint
in green, blue, red, "opal" pink, plus gold and silver
(colors could be mixed to create more colors?)
....heavy
concentration of mica flakes (in transparent medium?)
http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/12/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=222
.... I found a new, to me at least,
product to play with - Crayola Glitter F/X paint (a fine, multicolor
glitter in clear medium). . .. it's an interior latex paint,
milky white in color when applied. It dries clear, but shows
fine multicolor glitter when light shines on it.
.......to
try it, I grabbed a pen I had covered with red, white and blue clay and sealed
with Future.... I dipped the pen in the can and just let the
paint drip off....when dried, there was no masking of the underlying
clay colors, but a fine reflection from the glitter... looks like a sky
full of fireworks... had a slightly rough texture,
but accepted another coat of Future with no problem.... Now I'm thinking fairy
wings... Carol Beebe?
..... I used a blob
of Tulip fabric paint with glitter in it to hold the feathers
on the clay, and it stays on quite well. I had it left over from fabric painting
days...In fact, I tested, and it requires real effort to scratch and peel it off,
tho it can be done. .... I just squeezed the tube.... No scratching.
.........
it probably would also work for cloisonne ....I only had gold and silver,
so I never messed with it much! Sarajane
..........would also work for painting
on clay?
...for the glittery areas (instead of using nail polish after
baking), she could have mixed (Jones Tones or Art Institute) glitters
into either gloss Flecto or into Future,
then used that as paint for certain areas. Patty B. (see more in Finishes)
Thin-Bodied
acrylics... Lumiere & Neopaque & Luna Lights
Neopaque ...thin-bodied (non-metallic)
acrylic paints, by Jacquard
....very opaque... designed to cover dark
backgrounds with light application
... bright even on dark
surfaces..... like Lumiere (see below), but not metallic
....on light backgrounds,
their color is less intense
http://www.jacquardproducts.com/products/paints/neopaque
Lumiere...
thin-bodied metallic (or pearlescent or iridescent)
acrylic paints, by Jacquard
...may "dry,"
but they won't actually
be permanent
(defined only as washable?)
until cured
(...can be important for some projects using Lumieres,
less important for others):
...slightly metallic-pearly... very intense
colors
...available in Hi-Lite, Pearlescent, and Metallic
colors
http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/53/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=4139
http://www.jacquardproducts.com/products/paints/lumiere
Lumiere brand paints
. . ...intended for fabric (leave
fabric soft and supple)...must be cured to withstand washing.
...I just discovered those paints thanks to Leigh while we were at Shrinemont.
The ones I've bought are beautiful pearl colors and are great for use on Polymer
Clay. I've been buying mine from Wilma at the artway.com
...I’ve
experimented with every brand of fabric paint there is, and these are the best
I’ve found – definitely not the typical fabric paints you find in craft stores!
...they apply evenly to almost any surface, including paper, canvas, basketry
and wood – yet they leave even silk soft and supple..
....The
colors are brighter, more heavily pigmented ...because they are
particularly reflective, you may wish to tone them down with
white, silver, a darker color, or a matte color, according to your taste...I
would rather be able to tone down a vibrant color than be stuck with a dull one
that nothing can brighten! The only bone I can pick with Lumiere is that they
don’t yet make a metallic black, dark brown, Christmas red, or yellow.
....I'm
so glad I got some Sunset Gold Lumiere. It's a rich gold as opposed
to their yellow-y plain gold. In fact I like it so
much, I used tiny amounts of it over their Silver to warm the Silver slightly
and give it a little more character. Linelle
...mix Lumieres
with regular matte acrylic colors for an even more extensive range
of metallics...add the Hi-Lite colors for subtle, reflective, opalescent
effects... and the Super Sparkle for extra glitter.
...The
Lumieres are gorgeous, and yes, they're just as brilliant after
they've been cured.
You can apply
them to raw clay, wait for it to dry to the touch before you further
manipulate it into the shape that you want, then cure.
...Or,
you can cure your piece and paint on it with the Lumieres with one-coat
coverage (no need to cure if not needing to be washable, etc.?).
...if I put
Lumieres on top of metallic leaf (on clay) that I didn't let dry
enough ( felt dry to the touch but it wasn't completely dry), the pasta
machine scrapers just scraped the whole thing into a mess. ... so now
let it dry a couple of hours to be safe. Linelle
I usually wipe
a cured piece with alcohol before I apply Varathane,
so I'd do the same with a cured piece before I painted on it with Lumiere Acrylics...
it seems to remove surface residue so that the finish can grip the surface more
directly. Have a great time with these.. they are truly fantastic paints for use
with the clay. Elizabeth
can also use for highlighting or antiquing as with using other paints
highlighting+flattening
....Kris's
lesson on impressing clay with a stamp, applying Lumieres to the
upraised areas (let dry thoroughly), then flattening with a hand
roller ..design is somewhat less distinct, but still present ....sort of like
texture sheet mokume gane or one ghost image mica technique (these are made into
solid lentil shapes, and have top loops and cording added)
http://sculpey.com/Projects/projects_impressedpen.htm
(see
more on this technique using paints and other
colorants in Texture > Flattening Antiqued
and/or Highlighted texture sheets)
Consuelo painted on a sheet
of black clay with silver Lumiere paints (reminiscent of black and silver
"scratch art")
http://groups.msn.com/WoodchuckMuldoon/polymerclayart.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=8
...
I have a project in Oct 2005 Bead and Button on making painted polymer clay beads.
DottyinCA.
for crackling Lumieres, I'd recommend that you dilute
them about 1/2 and 1/2 with water before you apply them to the raw clay
sheet, and then apply thinly --this will eliminate a lot of the body of
the paint so that it can crackle or thin itself across the surface of the clay
as you manipulate it instead of stretching
so much (there is so much mica in the Lumieres that diluting them does
not seem to remove any of their sparkle)
... and when applied to a white
base, I don't believe the colors will even appear to fade down with dilution....they
will lose their opacity though ...applied to black base clay,
they will not appear as intense as the full-bodied paint. Elizabeth
You
can use it to paint on layers of clay for a different type of mokume gane
effect (from Tory Hughes) . Jill
....(for using inks rather than paints
in the same way, see Letters-Inks
and Mokume Gane)
I
also dilute the Lumieres when I'm using them for mokume gane
--too
thickly applied, and the dried Lumiere paints are the devil to cut
through neatly from the top of a mokume gane stack. Elizabeth
(see
more on Lumiere paints in Mokume Gane
> Paints)
.....To cut the clay when it's coated
with dried Lumiere paint, saw back and forth with a very slight
downward pressure, using a very sharp blade. Don't push
down. DottyinCA
As for scraps of clay with paint on them,
unfortunately the paint won't mix into the clay so it can be reused
....however,
you can often pull or scrape off the paint. DottyinCA
polymerclayexpress' lesson on applying (metallic) Lumiere paints to Buna cording (layered and spongy appearance, or solid) http://polymerclayexpress.com/jan2001.html
how can I minimze paint strokes with Lumieres?
...use
a nice sable brush dipped in water (a tip I learned from Lisa Pavelka
in using her PolyGlaze). Trina (so true for all water-based mediums?)
The Lumieres are very metallic and so they compliment the mica, magic leaf and wire that I tend to use in my work. Dianne C.
There are dozens of techniques that you can use with Lumiere paints
...stamping,
sponging, stenciling ...as well as hand-painting,
airbrushing, screen-printing
(check out Sherrill Kahn's
books "Creating with Paint" and "Creating Stamping with Mixed Media Techniques"
for some beautiful techniques that will also work on polymer clay)
I
made some chysanthemum canes with Lumiere paints. The ones
which I made up right away turned out fine.
....but the canes which I let
sit unitl I got to them---over a month later
did not reduce well ....
in fact the translucent layers could be separated out in sheets.
The more that I worked at reducing, the more the layers separated from the paints....
Don't know if this was due to the translucent clay or if the Lumiere paints prevented
the clay from reducing. Jeanne
other
sites for Lumiere:
http://www.martydoll.com/Supplies/Paints.htm#Perfectly%20Pearl-Ex
http://www.jacquardproducts.com/paints.htm
Dharmatrading...wonderful,
wonderful, wonderful place to deal with
http://www.dharmatrading.com/info/lumneo.html
http://www.dharmatrading.com/lum_neo.html
On this site you need to scroll down to the bottom
of the page to find the info: Dotty
http://www.sistersanddaughters.com/dyesandpaints.html
Luna
Lights ....are quite thin and more like an ink
(in fact, have been marketed as Luna Lights Inks..DB), but dry like paint.
....bond extremely well with the clay. Dotty
......basically a "thin
acrylic paint" probably (metallics and non-metallic colors)...flexible,
water based paint.... on metal, plastic, ceramics, etc..
.....I've noticed
that Luna Lights are exactly like metallic airbrush acrylics --same viscosity,
similar coverage, etc Margaret D.
...Carol's or Tracy's Art Angel Pins...cutout
shapes of polymer, stamped, finger painted with Luna Lights, then
dusted with copper pearl ex.
http://collective-artwerx.com/2002/art_angels.jpg
(can enlarge by hovering over bottom right corner, then clicking)
...Tracy's
lesson on Luna Lights on black clay beads with widely crackled gold
leaf and diff. color paints here and there.. dry...bake..gloss glaze....a
little dichroic
http://www.collective-artwerx.com/how2_polymer.html
..lots of good analysis and tips re Luna Lights from Tyra http://netnet.net/~cloud9/prod_reviews/pr_luna_lights.html
...they
will crackle fracture just a little bit on raw clay (not enough
for doing any of the techniques which need clear fracturing however --see below
in Stretching for more on using them this way) . . . coated and fired on black
clay and then covered with ...glaze, they are beautiful!! When fractured just
the little that they capable of, then glazed, they look a lot like dichroic
glass. Dotty
...Tyra mentions that one of the main things the makers suggest
using these for is making Rorschach-type ink blots (on paper) to be used
as backgrounds or cutouts... she feels the special paper they use for this is
basically just freezer paper (the glossy coating keeps the open time longer)
... but could do this with a clay sheet?? as well?
.......with the freezer
paper I tried Lumiere Paints, Crayola Pearl Brites, Ordinary Metallic and Pearl
Acrylic Paints and The Pearlescent Inks by Daler and Rowney and they all worked!
...I also created backgrounds using both white and black glossy card stock and
they both worked reasonably well... I also had great success with acetate. Trish
http://www.creative-cards.co.uk/newsletter/trish/freezerpaper/freezerpaper.html
(some effects)
Making Your Own Metallic Paints
using metallic powders
Mica
powder (like Pearl Ex) or real-metal powder (or other pigments)
can be mixed into a clear liquid medium to create a metallic"
paint" which can be applied in various ways.
......the resulting paint
mixture will take on the characteristics
of the medium it is mixed with (e.g.., gloss, flat,
frosted, or iridescent..., and can look dense and opaque or
lighter and more subtle depending on how much mica powder is used (or how
much the medium is thinned)
...many clear mediums can be used
I
like the "lighter-more-spread-out"
look when I mix just the smallest bit of metallic powder
into my Future
...then I bake the peice for 5 min
and see if I want more or not (depends on the final look I'm after, but I always
bake between coats of Future)
...I have a small container that I keep
just for my mixture. Connie
Rustoleum's Varathane can also be used as the carrier for metallic powders ...but it is a bit milky when wet, and could make seeing the "color" while it's being created a little more difficult?
Elizabeth's
lesson on mixing mica powders into gum arabic powder to make paints
...she
mixes the metallic powder with the gum arabic powder (4 to 1)... then adds
drops of water, and mixes till liquid
...she then lets it sit
(and evporate) 1-2 days before using (or can use a "convection"
oven to concentrate it)
...apply with wet brush (she applies to paper),
often building up layers of color
http://polymerclayexpress.com/sept2003.html
I mixed Fimo's real-metal
powders, called pulvers, (or Authentic Metal Powders by Houston Arts) into
Future & into liquid clay
....... the Future
+pulver makes a smoother
line of "paint" & adheres well to baked clay
........the TLS
(liquid clay) +pulver "paint" gives a grainy
line (and must be rebaked to cure, of course).
.......12 real
metal powders in metal colors http://www.houstonart.com/
(then click on Metallic Powders)
i
put a lot of metallic powder into liquid clay and I thin it some
with Diluent-ClaySoftener
..... if i touch my finger
into the liquid clay lightly and brush quickly across something (highlighting)
, it spreads the powder so it looks like you used the powder alone!!...
the difference here is that the powder is baked on with the liquid clay,
and sealing is unnecessary!! most cool, huh? Sunni
....You can see
a sample of liquid clay tinted with Pearlex pigments here, I used it to
make the tail of my merhorse, it looks almost like dichroic glass or a very
blueish crystal opal. http://codie.cratered.net/sculptures/merhorse/aquas/tail4.jpg
(gone) Laura
...Pearl-Ex
mica powders (or real metal powders) can be mixed liquid clay
to color with (i.e., antique silver for grey, or gold which turns
out yellowish)....can use as a paint ... I have been putting stripes on
my ornaments this way. mamadude
....... Mamadude used a rubber-tipped
painting "brush" tool to apply it ... or use whatever works...
stamps?
...I use
Kato (liquid clay) and also TLS along with the Pearl-ex powders (and other
powdered pigments too), for making faux stained glass, for painting
on clay, and for many other uses as well. Jeanne
...some
liquid clays bake up clearer than others (TLS is the least clear),
and that could affect the look of the mica powder paint depending on how thick
it's applied
see
Kellie's use of Pearl Ex colors as paint (using paintbrush ..which medium?)
...
she colored different sections of raw clay (which had been delineated by
impressing a bent wire shape into a sheet of base clay)
http://www.kelliesklay.homestead.com/wirenclaypins.html
USArtQuest's
page on using Pearl-Ex into various clear mediums
http://www.usartquest.com/products/index.html
(Products & Techniques
> Tips & Tech's)
(see more on using mica powders in clear mediums in Powders > Pearl Ex)
using acrylic paints
You
can mix your own pearlescent paint colors by using Pearl
white acrylic paint with non-metallic acrylic paints:
......get
more colors by mixing in non-metallics in basic colors like a red,
a blue, and a yellow or gold), along with black
clear
mediums can also be mixed with metallic acrylic paints:
...mix
with acrylic paints
into water-based polyurethane (Varathane) (half
and half --"Frames
with Flair" by Suzanne McNeill)
.......for a dimensional look that can be applied with squeeze
bottles for raised designs, mix 6 tsp. baking soda
to 3-1/2 to 4 tsp of the paint. MJ
..or
mix them into Future ......mixing a few drops of Future
into the acrylic paint on your palette will make it adhere better to
baked clay too. Kathy R
..or
mix metallic acrylic paints into liquid clays for painting
...
I think Golden brand acrylic paints (in tubes) are just awesome
to tint liquid clays .....the colors I found that I love so much are all iridescent
copper, gold and silver! ...they are are SOOO rich!
........ I just finished
the inside of a rock purse with the copper, and think I'll use it as a
base on the outside as well. Jan
if using Lumiere paints (see above?) ...add the Hi-Lite colors for subtle, reflective, opalescent effects... and the Super Sparkle for extra glitter.
for more info on making polymer paints, see below in Paintings, and also in Finishes,
misc.
i store these new "paints" in little 1/2 oz serum bottles. sunni
for glittery areas ---instead of using nail polish after baking, she could have mixed (Jones Tones or Art Institute) glitters into either gloss Varathane or into Future, then used that as paint for certain areas. Patty B. (see more in Finishes)
Delta
CeramDecor's Perm Enamel (the "Clear" medium) can be used on
glass, tile, and ceramic
... (remember, just because something is named
"enamel" doesn't mean it can't also be acrylic... this is acrylic?)
...I often mixed small amounts of Pearl Ex into Perm Enamel
Clear to tint it for painting in select areas:
http://www.sunshinecrafts.com/cgi-bin/cart.pl?db=catalog.dat&category=Perm%20Enamel%20Mediums
...Clear alone does give a really nice thick shine and it takes long enough
to dry that it levels nicely and brush strokes diappear... I found though that
it really works best only on flat pieces, not anything 3-d or sculptural.
... I re-baked for 20 min. at regular clay temp to cure and harden
the finish, as it will peel off if you don't (though don't re-bake for at least
12 hours until it is completely dry or it will bubble... it may
feel dry to the touch after an hour, but still be a little moist or sticky down
under the "skin") Patti K.
...the top photo shows feathers and dots drawn
or impressed into beads... then depressed-area shapes were painted
http://www.kimledesigns.com/jewelry/jewelry.htm
... the wild rose jars (near bottom) use the same method ...but the (non
metallic?) purple color areas are painted over the
gold acrylic paint in order to achieve the faux enamel effect.
Patti K.
http://www.kimledesigns.com/otherstuff/otherstuff.htm
AngelWing's
Radiant Pearls . . . pearlized paints in jars with emollients
mixed into them similar to oil paints ...they are .translucent,
like watercolors.
...shading and blending techniques?... use with rubber-stamped
images or apply straight from the jar as a watercolor... embossable. Katie
...Radiant
Pearls don't dry on any type of
plastic (including polymer clay).
Katie
...Radiant Pearls need to be applied to porous surfaces (to uncoated
paper, fabric, unglazed tile) in order to dry. Last I heard, it
will never dry on clay, not even with heat-setting.
..........However, you can make beautiful pearlized accents by mixing powdered
mica colors into TLS, so if Radiant Pearls puts out a powder
form?, that would work just great. (You may have to thin the colored TLS
to make up for the increased viscosity from adding the powders.) Eliz.
~I
stamped ornaments on Sculpey III for xmas presents and painted them with Radiant
Pearls (metallic paints which don't dry on plastic..). . . . After 3 weeks
they still weren't dry so I poured clear embossing powder over them and
threw them back in the oven for 15-20 min. Turned out like glass.
Tonnia
http://www.rubberstampsofarkansas.com/radiantpearls.htm
http://www.radiantpearls.com/technique-art-gallery.html
(techniques)
....I found out recently that they
won't dry when painted over acrylic paint
either. Katie
...I haven't used the Radiant
Pearls but I know the main difference between these and other paints is that they
don't mix together well.... In other words Blue and Yellow don't
make Green. So you get side by side color in whatever pattern you mix.??
Trina
....I tried painting RP on paper that I then placed on a sheet of clay
and followed with a layer of TLS and baked. The resulting piece looked
okay, but I came across it recently (about 2 years since making it) and
the color faded terribly. Ellen M.
Another option, by the same company, is Radiant Pearls' line of pigment powders and solutions called Primary Elements. They have about 25 colors of pigments in VERY rich colors, and accompanying solutions for fabric, paper, glass and, of course, polymer clay. You just mix a little solution and pigment and then paint it onto the clay.... You can cure the Primary Elements with the clay. ...more info about both product lines at: http://www.radiantpearls.com. Margaret D.
...as far
as I can tell, "Liquid Leaf" (Plaid,
Modern Options) is solvent based (and can be mixed
into raw clay, but is not the same as similar sounding acrylic products
like metallic liquid acrylic paints Liquid Gold, etc.??)
...metallic
acrylics or sovent based??? . . Plaids' Liquid Leaf contains both
a primer and a film of gold.
Plaid's Liquid Leading ...to create the look of
real leading lines with this waterbased, non-toxic formula.
...Can you use
these to blend right into the clay?. . . (using another liquid leaf
I) made some beads, baked them and whalaa...They're gorgeous! They really look
like you've added gold foil or similiar material.
Treasure Liquid
Leaf is a combination of red primer and metallic particles, which when applied,
closely resembles traditional gold leafing. Apply with a brush and protect when
dry with Treasure Sealer. Treasure Gold is effective for achieving metallic finishes
on a variety of surfaces and is applied with a soft cloth. It will dry almost
immediately and can be buffed to a fine lustre. Thin or remove using Turpentine
or White Spirit and seal with Treasure Sealer.
Angelwings'
Twinkling H2O's . . . shimmery (mica?) watercolor cakes
embedded with mica powder to make them shimmer and glow.. .acid free ...dip
a wet paintbrush or "waterbrush" into the solid cake of color and begin
to paint ...on paper, canvas, rocks, eggshells, wood, etc. ...five 6-color packs....use
group TW-605 (the light "iridescents" containing no pigment)
to lighten the other colors without losing the shimmer
http://www.radiantpearls.com/catalog/twinkling-h20s.html
......These products look really cool, but they won't do the things
on clay I do with Pinata Inks. They are waterbased and need
water in the brush. They need to be used on a base
which will absorb water and "set" the pigment
into the surface, then the base (paper, canvas, wood) dries. This would not work
on clay as there is no absorbtion of water by clay. The alcohol ink deposits the
pigment particles on clay as it evaporates, "setting" the pigment that way. I
think it would take way too long for water to evaporate off the surface and you
couldn't layer colors... I've never found a way to use the radiant pearls effectively
with clay, either--even though the colors are scrumptious! Patti
....(technique
for dark cardstock, or clay?...certain areas like those between embossed dark
stamped lines can be bleached out with a waterbrush, allowed to dry and
then painted over with these paints . . . any wet paintbrush will work,
but a waterbrush is much more convenient ...have special handles
that are actually receptacles for water. To add more water to your project, just
squeeze the handle. Or to clean the brush between colors, just squeeze until the
water flows through the brush, then gently wipe the brush on a paper towel. ..
http://www.stamperzine.com/july2003/page14.html
?? Plasti-kote makes a spray paint called "Bumper Chrome" (is this acrylic??). The can says it gives a chrome-like finish. I have had great luck with this. My pieces have the smooth, mirrorlike finish and look Chrome, an effect one cannot get using regular metallic silver acrylics or paints. I purchased my Bumper Chrome, and many other finishes I use at the auto parts store. (has lasted 2 years on baked Super Sculpey with no problems). (nothing bad in the spray propellant though?)
"mediums"
....each "paint" contains has a pigment, a vehicle and
a medium.
....the medium in oil paint is either safflower,
linseed or some other oil, like walnut, for example (...the vehicle
would be turpentine or paint thinner)
...the medium in acrylic paints
is polymer (...the vehicle is water)
...pigments are medium-indifferent...you
can mix your own paint with pure pigments using a vehicle and a medium of your
choice
..you can purchase premixed mediums
that have different qualities to aid in the painting process
....in
oils, mediums can be used to create transparency for glazing, impasto (thicken
paint), speed or slow drying time, etc.
....in acrylics there are similar
types of mediums Bob Tavis (see below)
acrylic mediums:
...made from acrylic polymer emulsion ....the various types can be mixed together...dry
slowly by evaporation
...form durable films when dry which
are flexible and water/chemical/UV resistant
1. when added
to an acrylic paint, they alter various characteristics of it:
........handling characteristics (tackiness-tooth, on fabric can control
bleeding and allow smooth application, etc.)
.......appearance
(shiny, matte)
.......volume (viscosity or thickness, vs. runniness)
to create many different effects
2. when used alone, have excellent
adhesive qualities so can be used as glue (even decoupage)
acrylic
gel medium
... comes in versions from very
soft to very stiff, to some with fibers or sand in
it.
...it tints up beautifully with just about any paint
or paint pigment you want to put in it.
.......it looks white, and when
you add tint it will look very pale. However, the stuff winds
up drying clear, so your original colors show through.
...comes
in glossy, semi-gloss, and flat ...takes about 24 hours to cure
completely (lets you work with it longer).
(It was originally set up FOR
paper or canvas, and definitely works on polyclay --I used it to make my dragon
scales originally).
These are created by different manufacturers, such as Liquitex or Golden... usually available at craft stores (and art stores).
listing of the various types
of acrylic mediums(& their characteristics and what they're
often used for):
http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/18a/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=213
...Gel Medium ...used to extend acrylic paint, alone
as an adhesive (see Glues >
other glues), and as a clear finish
...Heavy Gel ... Matte Gel
...Gloss Medium... Matte Medium... Iridescent Tinting Medium
...Glazing Medium... Matte Varnish ...High Gloss Varnish ....Gloss
Varnish Flexible Surface
...Acrylic Slow-Dri Medium
...Super
Heavy Modeling Paste
(see more on acrylic mediums in Glues
> Acrylics, or bottom of page)
"OIL"-type
paints
+ Heat-Set "oils" (Genesis) +
Water-Mixable "oils"
+ Oil pastels
true. OILS
(various brands ... "artist"
quality, "student" quality, etc.)
You can use (true) oil paints
on top of baked clay.... or in raw canes and clay,
liquid clays, raw canes & mokume gane ...because you bake
it later and that sets the paint more quickly
....these would eventually
dry on baked clay but it takes a long time, so it's best to rebake
to speed up the process.
...some people
like to bake the oil paint for 5 minutes
at 250 to set it more quickly (rather than waiting
for it to dry thoroughly) (...will also work with regular "painting"?)
(...for heat-set paints like Genesis, see below)
The oils in oil paint will not react with the baked clay if they are in a linseed
oil base, not
petroleum
based . ..
......however, I just
prefer not to use them on my things as they take too
much time to dry
throughly. Jodi C.
(.........though
you can bake 5 min at 250 to set paint )
...."enamel" paints are
suspect though (depending on what they really
are)
....some paints (the heat-set "oils" which are really
acrylics) will not ever dry on polymer clay unless
they're baked.
... some do dry, but then turn
sticky after a year or more - be careful!
Sue (see linseed oil distinction just above?)
oil
paints can be used to color solid clays, especially translucent
clay
.......it marblizes really well in the clay (how much depends
on how you mix it). Sharon
oil paint can also be mixed into liquid clays to color them
I
paint on baked..translucent
clay with oil paints and cotton swabs (gradient color)
--they blend fantastically...they don't dry out right away...
and you can get lovely sheen without using a buffer. Louise
http://www.LouiseFischerCozzi.com
I
paint on pc all the time, oil paints and acrylics. I simply use
gesso first.... (later a corresponding sealer). I have pieces that
are over 15 years old that still look 'new.'
)
(....see more info about preparing the surface
of baked clay for best results with paint above in "Preparation")
oil paints can be used as an antiquing in the crevices, and as light "glazes" on baked clay"
antiquing baked clay
...Gwen
Gibson used mostly oil paints for filling in the grooves of clay
created by her etching transfer process, but from what I can tell she did
usually rebake for 5-10 minutes (probably just to speed up the process of drying
though).
....oils fall into the grooves much better than acrylics.
...you can just squeeze on some oil paint, rub it gently into the engraving. Then
using a cardboard, or the chisel end of one of those clay shaper tools, remove
the excess paint from the surface. You want the paint to be only in the grooves...rebake
for about 10 minutes if using oil paint to set it.
...Gwen does use primarily
oil paints...it IS messier...harder to cleanup. ...Somebody
else said they had some "clay degradation" with oil paint.
Quite frankly, I spend enough time on my stuff to NOT want to lose it...so I'm
sticking with acrylic paints. Jodie
(though "degradation" may be
a result of not curing the clay completely?)
patinas
. . .( liquid clays --with inclusions such as oil paints
or powders)
. . . .these can be stippled on with a brush, sponge, etc....
or they can be painted on to cover all or just certain areas, then rubbed
off to remain only in the crevices, etc.
...these can also be layered
over each other, or used with other surface manipulations like transfers,
stampings, sheets created in vairous ways, etc.
... I used oil
paints and I was extremely happy with the results - much more gentle than
acrylics. Louise
(for more on patinas created in various ways, see Fauxs-many > Aged & Ancient Effects)
to color several
areas of baked clay, put a tiny bit of one color
onto the baked piece in whatever area you want... rub it off leaving
just a hint of color
...a second application
of the first color can then be done to heighten the saturation.. . . . Then you
can use a different color in another area. Gives
a lovely, soft glow of color. Dotty in CA
You
can paint with oils over a sealing of acrylic paint too..
. . household vinyl emulsion paint has the same effect.... I suppose this
is worth it if you really hate acrylics... and don't mind waiting for oils to
dry (still takes several days to 6 months for complete
drying - look on the tube.).
...I like using compatible things though, I suppose,
to cover all eventualities for the long term. Just be cautious! Sue
...I
paint on pc all the time, oil paints and acrylics. I simply use a gesso primer
first, then corresponding sealer. I have pieces that are over 15 years
old that still look 'new.'
Donna
Kato used oil paints in a mokume gane technique on Carol Duvall...she said
that the oil paints cure in the heat of the oven and there is not
a problem with degradation
(see faux abalone mokume gane above
in Acrylics)
... 5 min. at 250º will cure it... you
can use your oven, or embossing gun or the special gun or curing
boxes that are sized specially for canvases.
...soap and water, or 91% alcohol
clean-up.
... If you make a mistake, you can remove the paint from cured
polymer until you cure the paint."
Oil
paints (for tinting liquid clays, etc.).... Joann's, etc.
store has sampler sets of oil paints for $8 - 12 .... 6-12 small
tubes, but as Irene noted... they'll last just short of forever at the rate you
need them for tinting TLS. I'm sure that you can find these samplers at any art
supply and many craft supply stores that have fine arts sections. Wayyy less expensive
than the Genesis line, and every bit as effective. Elizabeth
...Also those
paint by number kits may be something to check out for small quantities
of oil paints. Netta
(...Even the Genesis paints come in a 6 color set.....about
$15. All colors can be made with these. Tricia?)
Shiva
PAINTSTICKS
...("oil paint in a stick" ... refined linseed
oil blended with a quality pigment)
...they are just marvellou, sort of
like a compounded paint (in a crayon form) that is heat set. ....draw on
your pc and throw in the oven...the colours are really great, the chart on the
site doesn't do it justice. http://www.thethreadstudio.com/
Robin
...can use same techniques, mediums and surfaces as with tube
oil paints, including varnishes ....no odors or fumes... 51 professional colors,
16 iridescent
oil PASTELS???
(see more on all "pastels" below in Pastels)
I
use Sennelier oil pastels (quite expensive) but CrayPas will work just
as well (not as fine a colorant but available everywhere, not just in art stores,
and are cheaper. They do the same thing as the oil paints i.e. coloring, but it's
impossible to use to much if you do it this way:
....(for surface coloring)..take
a clean, glossy tile and be sure the oil pastel isn't 'healed over' and rub around
in a circle to release a dime size or quarter size circle of color. Add tls (liquid
clay) to this and mix until you've got the shade you want (now, of course
if you're doing a mold, I guess this wouldn't work as well, you'd have to cut
off a wee bit and crush it up. . . . I do all of my faux finishing this way...vertigris
is several shades of teal green and a hint of copper...apply each with a dabbing
motion to cover piece until it looks right...ater baking you'll be amazed how
good the piece looks (this is great for that piece that 'just doesn't make it'...in
other words).. Carolyn
It really is according to what you are doing and the colors you want, as to what colorant will work the best for you. I have found that the artist's powdered pigments work the very best for tinting liquid clays. Although they are expensive, they really go a long ways. ...With both the oil pastels and the powdered pigments, it sometimes takes a little while to get them to dissolve really well. So I make up little pots of all the colors I use and have them ready.. Jeanne R.
(similar in use to Shiva Paintsticks above?).....I bought boxes of oil sticks which are used to mark metal for layout in welding and fabricating shops (can also buy them from stores which sell acetylene gas and other welding supplies) The sticks are about 4" long and about as big around as a nickel. They have a cardboard cover on them and like oil pastels will develop a "skin" that must be removed before using. These come in all the primary and secondary colors, plus white, black, silver and gold. Real cool stuff to use. Just another source for oil paints, and yes I have a set along with several different brands of artist quality oil pastels. Patty B.
Hi Dianne - I've
done a little bit of work with pastels and liquid clay. I use the
chalk form because I can scrape a smidge from the bar for the color I want. You
don't need much to made a deep rich color. I've mixed different colors of pastels
and blend them in TLS to get the desired color.
....You can also use pastels
on raw clay for blushing and it works well and stays in the clay after
baking. Since I make mostly sculptures, I haven't had an issue with them scraping
off. Hope that helps a bit. Sooz
HEAT
SET paints (Genesis) ... sorta
like colored liquid polymer clay?
behave like
oils when used
Genesis paints
are called oil paints but are not truly oil paints
....... they're actually
a polymer based paint that won't harden until heated. Dotty
(a "thermoplastic")
....These behave like oil paints,
but they thin with water ....and clean up with
water and soap or 91% alcohol ....and
must be heat-set
...(??) From the
first time I read a description of these Genesis "heat-set oils", I thought, yeah,
right.....this is basically coloured liquid polymer clay, ie, that
is, some kind of LS-like stuff, with pigment added. I think calling it
"oils" is a marketing ploy. Cath
...You can even use it to clean
regular oil paint off your brushes. Not that you would. But you could.
Lisa T.
(see
more just below on the characteristics of these paints)
SUPPLIERS
+more info
http://www.genesisartistcolors.com
http://www.theclaystore.com
(click on Paints & Accessories)
SUMMARY:
These paints are rather different than other types of paint.
.... they
do not dry at all , but must
be "cured"
the same way that polymer clay is cured (in an oven at 250-280 degrees,
or with a heat gun)
....mixed-up
paints and paint left in a brush never dries (so they don't need to
be cleaned between sessions and mixed colors on a palette will "keep indefinitely)
.......(the
Genesis representative) had one paint brush he'd begun using when he first
started doing presentations that he'd NEVER cleaned...
it was still wet.... unbelievable, really!
...can make any paint layer wet or dry as long or as short as you want.. impasto
& glazing are easy
...however pigments
look diff. than oils
These are marketed
by one company: Genesis Artist Colors.
....not actually oil paints...
but are ground in some sort of synthetic polymer that behaves rather
like oil.
....they don't dry by oxidation the way oil paints do....
must be heated which sets is permanently --so the paint stays wet forever.
....for
drying, you can use a special heat gun (sold by the Genesis company) but can’t
use a hair dryer because it doesn’t get hot enough....or a special drying oven
(sold by the Genesis company). ...can use a regular oven, but may get paint on
it...
...a disadvantage to heat set paints is that they are made by only one
company which won’t say exactly how they are made... they claim the paint is archival,
but you have to take their word for it. . .
http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2006/08/20/73-more-convenient-than-regular-oil-paint
I
have been working with them, and think they have a lot of possibilities.
....They
are not pvc-based (?), but they seem quite compatible with the clay
.....they adhere nicely to the clay... and their tinting
strength is fantastic.
.....The only problem I've had so far is with
trying to sandwich the wet paint
beneath a layer of translucent clay and having
the translucent plaque..though
my translucent layer probably wasn't mushed down hard enough, and maybe it can't
be due to the viscosity of the paint. (I haven't tried all the Genesis mediums
yet, though.) Just another problem to solve. Bonnie in Houston
Summary of WAYS TO USE these paints with polymer clay:
...just
paint or use washes of them on baked clay, using a brush,
or on a baked film of liquid clay... for pictures, sculpted faces,
patterns, whatever
.........(more on some of
that below under Polymer Paintings).
..as an antiquing
paint, it works great... I often use the Burnt Umber on light colors; Cadmium
Red is great over impressed or carved black.
.........(lesson):
make and bake the item first... when cool, sand and buff it... rub the paint over
it, and rub off any excess.... rebake for 5-6 min's in at 250 degrees...then buff
the surface again (the Genesis
areas won't buff up (on their own), but the
rest of the piece will. Dotty (.. Katherine Dewey says it will buff if a bit
of liquid clay is added to it the Genesis)
......see also below
in Antiquing and Patinas)
......(see also
etched transfers using oil paints, in Transfers
> Etched)
...stencil them in a pattern over the surface
of the clay, then bake.
...sandwich them between layers of clay, and
then use one of the mokume gane techniques with them....after taking slices
off a mokume gane pad you can lay them onto a base bead, or a clay sheet and then
bake.Dotty
.....would work as well for spiral canes or
any other stacks or layered techniques?
...mix
it with (liquid clay) to color it.... then use as you would use
the liquid clay
painting
.....the
texture of the paint is very buttery and a delight to use..
If you love oil paints, but hate to wait for them to dry, this is the stuff
for you!
.... for refined painting
on clay, say a portrait or some other rendered subject, they work
much better than Liquid Sculpey (...but
that's why I do the things I do with TLS... I like a more
abstract textural approach and TLS works very well for
that)
.....My
DH cures his paintings (on masonite or illustration board) in my
convection oven.....the only serious drawback is that this
limits the size of the paintings. The Genesis people will construct a
drying box for you but it isn't cheap.
..........(larger
areas of) paint can also be set with a heat gun, but this is tedious
and we feel that the convection oven does a better job.
.....They
have a whole range of colors. and offer different sets, or you can buy them individually.
.....They do mix with liquid clay.. Jody Bishel
..Susan S's lesson
on painting faces of sculpts with the flesh-colored and other colors of
Genesis ... washes, etc.
http://tutorials.theclaystore.com/Dolls/doll-painting-with-genesis-paints
for washes and stains, I prefer Genesis paints to acrylic paints as they leave no "edge", a real problem with acrylics.
I've even used them in an air brush. Katherine Dewey ....(for more on air brushes, see Finishes > Sprays)
inclusions....Donna
Kato mixed titanium white Genesis paint with
some colored powders (I'm pretty sure this was the brand - D'UVA chromacoal
powder http://www.lithocoal.com/mainframe.html
)
...then she used it in her mokume gane and it was a really
neat effect. Geo in MI
...Donna's lesson on using Genesis paints in
a mokume gane stack ... she put the Genesis colors here
and there on a sheet of translucent , then spreadit
around with fingers... added a sheet of metallic leaf on top ... final sheet cut
and stacked into a mokume loaf
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,,HGTV_3238_1383760,00.html
They
are a bit on the expensive side....You'll find, however, that quality
oil paint in the same pigment concentration is just as expensive. Bonnie in
Houston
. . .I have to say
that these are NOT expensive paints (for what you get)...
you get use out of every drop of paint in the bottle. You NEVER wash paint out
of your brush, you wipe it all out of the brush and use it later. (You know that
when you are working with most other paints, you will have a thin layer of paint
on your palet where you might have blotted your brush... that quickly dries and
is wasted. Because this stuff never dries, you can just swipe that right
up and use it.). Reagan
CURING: Genesis paints are
supposed to be cured ato 250- 280 degrees for "several minutes"
....you can do that either in a regular/toaster oven, in
one of their drying ovens, or using the special heat gun they make just
for curing Genesis paints
... (their heat tool would cure the paint on
polymer clay with that amount of time, but only partially
cure the clay underneath
as you won't be heating the polymer clay for the full time required)...
(is this a problem?... or referring to using the
paint only on previously baked clay?)
Genesis paints cannot be buffed unless you add a touch of liquid clay to them. Katherine
I
bought the sampler kit which is in little plastic containers. When
you cut off the tops, you have to store it so it won't tip
over. Genevieve
....their
"starter" kits
include a heat gun, some colors, some mediums, and a video.
.......they generally run $60 to $80 retail tho' you could probably find
a kit for much less though (I've seen one for about $40).
Margaret D.
...I also bought the sampler kit, and after opening a few of the
tubes, I simply stood them up in a small (kalamata olive) jar..
It has been several months, and the paints, which don't "flow" in the first place,
are still workable, and all I have to do is squeeze a small amount out of one
of the tubes to color my TLS or make my MG. They're fun! And easy to clean up!
deb
WATER-MISCIBLE
Oils...(Artisan, Max, Duo Aqua,etc.)
(aka...
water-mixable oils)
..I've applied them to both unbaked
and baked clay. ... and always mixed with water
...they
can be used for antiquing and patinas as well (see below
in Antiquing)
WHAT ARE THEY?... HOW TO USE THEM?
Many people
...mistakenly refer to water miscible oil paint as “water
soluble” oil paint: that’s not technically correct, any more than there
is such a thing as water soluble olive oil. . . .
Water miscible "oil
paints"...are oil paints made with a form of linseed oil that
has been modified so that, when water is mixed in, it doesn’t separate.
...It
is therefore possible to clean brushes in water rather than solvents, clean your
palette with water, and so on.
...It is also possible to thin the paint with
water, although manufacturers usually recommend against adding
a whole lot of water. When mixed with water, the paint forms an emulsion
(tiny droplets of water surrounded by oil), so the refraction index of the paint
changes. That means that there is a noticeable shift in value; dark colors become
a bit lighter. The paint returns to its normal value when the water evaporates
away, making it difficult to judge values when painting (acrylic paint—another
sort of emulsion—has the same problem).
...They take about as long to dry
(oxidize) as regular oil paints.
....Water miscible oil paint can
also be thinned with regular solvents, and manufacturers produce various
mediums. They can even be mixed with regular oil paints, although
no water should be added to such a mixture.
....Oil painters who try water
miscible oils often find them to be kind of “sticky.”
Because each formulation is different, it can be a bad idea to mix paints
from different brands.
http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2006/08/20/73-more-convenient-than-regular-oil-paint
)
BRANDS + "oil" ingredients
...Winsor
& Newton-- "Artisan Water Mixable Oil Color" (modified linseed and safflower
oil)
............ I've been using these paints on Premo
for a few years now because they work so well, and like them as much as Genesis
heat-set paint). Katherine Dewey
http://www.dickblick.com/zz004/94/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=4656
...Grumbacher
--"Max Artists' Oil Colors" (produced using alkali-refined linseed oil
or sunflower oils.)
...HK Holbein -- "Duo Aqua Oil" (activator
which alters the structure of the linsee