Polymer clays for sculpting ..+ "best" ones
...some suppliers
Non-polymer clays
....air dry clays
.......paper clays, "cold porcelain" clays
.......epoxy & other clays-putties
General sculpting
...Gen Info (shapes,strength, joins, baking, fragility, finding images)
...Fingerprints, smoothing, dust
.......cleaning + smoothing .... "solvents"
.......tools, gloves.... plastic wrap/baggies... liquid finishes, liquid clays
.......after baking
...White or any clay --keeping clean
.......before baking ... after baking
...Plaquing
...Misc. info ...crumbling, cracking, etc.
......"covering" w/ cane slices
Distinguishing human characteristics
Flowers & Leaves
Other items to "sculpt" (animals, bugs, puppets,etc.)
Covering sculpted forms with clay
.....covering with slices
Settings & bases for sculpts
Bas relief sculpts (onlay)
More tips on sculpting + painting

PAGE 2....(in process... for now, still here)
Books & Videos + Molds, etc.
Online discussion groups, etc.
Websites
.... (lessons, realistic, dolls/special figures, whimsical
.....fantasy & wild women, jointed-dangly
.... other, misc)

I think everyone who sculpts with Polymer clay has a different opinion. Jack Johnston seems to prefer a softer clay. I and many others prefer a much firmer clay. But just that part of the consistency is not enough to say it's a good clay with which to sculpt. Fimo is very firm in many of it's colors but seams don't blend so well. Many very fine artists, some of the best in the world, like Premo. I find it too sticky unless it's leeched and even then it's kind of tacky. I like a good solid clay that has an almost waxy consistency. Super Sculpey has this quality but it's really not the strongest clay once it has been baked. The absolute favorite sculpting clay of this particular dabbler was Promat, and in particular promat black seemed to combine all the characteristics that I wanted. Firm, Waxy, great detail hold, and VERY strong. But much to my dismay promat is no longer being made.

PREMO clay is very heat sensitive and easily by overworked... try to learn to use fewer strokes, etc., or let the clay rest a bit, then continue.

SUPER SCULPEY (flesh-colored). . . to select the best box, I had little 'tests' for the clay before I bought. ....cracks (like splits) in the raw clay were a good sign as well as how much came off on my finger when I drew my finger hard accross it. Shane
...Many times there is a lot number stamped on the box. So when you find that first great box you can then note the lot # and check out all the boxes with the same number. I use to reserve boxes of clay of the same lot once I found one I liked.
... at home I carefully drag my palette knife across the clay...this removes any dirty marks without removing to much clay.
...SuperSculpey is a good clay for sculpting, and baked at a slightly higher temp, just under 300 degrees, proves to be fairly strong. Katherine Dewey .....it will darken though if not covered or using enclosed baking method? ...Katherine Dewey recommends covering baking sculpts with damp cloth?... would increase plaquing though?
......Baking times for me are 20 minutes per quarter inch thickness, with a minimum of 20 minutes
...When I blend clays, I don't treat it as blend and compromise temperature or time, but use the clay with the highest temperature as a gauge and bake accordingly.
...To prevent browning of thin or prebaked, or highly placed (my oven has hot spots) parts of a sculpture, those parts get wrapped with cotton batting secured with aluminum foil after the first 20-30 minutes of baking time. Works for me,
....can also drape with a damp paper towel, etc., (see more ways to avoid darkening in Baking > Darkening, Scorching)
... the Robert McKinley's book on dollmaking shows him using Super Sculpey but he stopped using it because he was experiencing too much breakage... and he switched to paperclay!!? Sadly he wasn't around long enough to try some of the newer and stronger clays that we have today. Kathndolls
...SuperSculpey tends to plaque (moon) a lot with small areas or opacity in the otherwise translucent clay... can add a bit of white to it to hide them, and/or avoid getting humidity and air into to the clay before baking (see Translucents > Plaquing for more info)
....a friend of mine sculpts in SuperSculpey, then applies a thin layer of Cernit over it to give it a more translucent look. Cheryl
......Right now, I'm trying a 50-50 blend of SS and Cernit. I've heard from several dollmakers that this is an excellent combination, easy to work with and has very little mooning, if any. I haven't gone clear through the process of baking with it yet, so I can't tell you my honest opinion. Peggy
"crumbling" clay sculpts:
... I question the validity of the decomposing (baked clay) doll tale . .. So many artists undercure SuperSculpey and SuperSculpey blends to prevent scorching that as a result the clay is more crystaline, brittle because it is underfused. I await what the polymer chemists have to say. Katherine Dewey

Terra Cotta original Sculpey in the box is extremely crumbly after baking (maybe even more than the original white Sculpey in a box?)...see more on Terra Cotta Sculpey in Characteristics > Sculpeys > White & Terra Cotta

Super Sculpey Firm (dark gray)....extra firm, opaque gray, sculpting compound ......shatter and chip resistant after baking
......good for sculpting fine details... gray color makes item easier to see and photograph ... 1 lb pkg ($10?)
http://www.clayalley.com/premo.htm ...http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/sculpey.html

I work with Sculpey's Superflex all the time (now called Bake and Bend). Yes, it's tacky and somewhat greasy, but it's a problem solver. (I use it in two ways: for flexible sheet molds that can be run through the pasta machine and) as the ductility agent when I want to model very thin elements of a sculpture that won't break. For modeling, I normally blend Beige Flex in a 50/50 mix with Premo (any color) that's been leached twice and then leach the 50/50 blend one more time. Beige Flex is so inert as a color it has a negligible effect on other colors, includeing white. The result is a slightly tacky clay the exact color I need with a consistency similar to fresh Premo, but it does remain flexible after baking; that's the quality I want. Examples on my webpage http://www.elvenwork. com include every finger on every sculpture, the membranes on the dragon's wings, the ears and tail on the sphinx, and the leafy dress on the the Green Lady. Katherine Dewey

Tommie's saga re testing the new KATO POLYCLAY for sculpting (he liked it very much, and felt that it raw clay blended to baked clay was very smooth and that it was very strong, among other things)
http://www.polymerclayhaven.com/lessons/dragonart.htm
.... My only complaint so far is just a minor one. The Kato skin tone clay is much too orange, and too opaque for reality. But it's not a big deal to mix up my own. I do that most of the time with the premo and fimo, too. I haven't sanded any yet, but I like the nice satiny sheen it has just baked... I did my best face sculpt yet out of it (despite the skintone issue) because it took the tooling so nicely. And seams lovely. That nice blending of pieces together. Dawndove
~I tried the flesh color to sculpt a fairy with, and wasn't impressed with the color (too peachy) or the translucency of the skin after it was baked. So I tried mixing it with translucent. Still didn't like it. And the feel was a bit too mooshy, for my tastes. Some people like Cernit feeling clays, so I'm not knocking it, it was not for me. Guess I'll be a Super Sculpey girl forever.... I do like the clay, it's just different from anything I've tried. Ginger
Vernon said when I first ordered it that they were going to change the color of the flesh to something with less orange. Leslie
...Well Kato clay is very strong, firmer than Premo which isn't always good for what I do, but I've found that if I mix in a little liquid clay it does pretty good.. . . I like the softer, more elastic Premo for clothing my figures as it stretches more easily. . . . The thing that I love Kato clay is that it doesn't color shift like Premo. Since I make figurines I was always having trouble with the skin darkening especially since I do many repeat bakings, different body parts tend to bake a lot. . . . the color white in Kato is and stays a nice bright white, but Premo's white is duller and darkens when baked to a less than satisfactory shade.
. . . Kato clay has a slightly shiny surface (looks a bit too plasticy) when baked which I like for the hair of a figure but don't for the rest, there I prefer Premo's soft matte finish. Dawn S.
....If you dip a pinkie in cornstarch & smooth it over the surface before baking, you'll end up with that nice matte finish on Kato clay. Marla

ALL the FIMOs
...the Fimo clays have been reformulated yet again...this time because some customers felt it was too crumbly
... though the plasticizers used in the previous formulation were judged okay for toys by the European Union (Fimo is classed as a "toy"), they also worried that the EU could ban more plasticizers in the future so those were changed too
.....both Fimos are now not as strong as they used to be, though if they're baked at the old temp of 265 instead of the new recommended temp of 230, they will be stronger
......FimoClassic and FimoSoft are softer than their previous formulations (becoming softer with each reincarnation) and have more problems with stretch and detail
......the new FimoClassic is now too soft and tacky (which makes it almost impossible to use for sculpting). UGH!!! ... it used to be my favorite for sculpting. Chris
......miniaturists don't like it as much because of the softer texture & the color changes
...for more info, see http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/shop/fimo_new_formula.htm
........also see Safety > Plasticizers, Oils, Phthalates....and Baking > Times and Temperatures

Fimo flesh-colored doll clays:
...dollmakers particularly are not happy. ...we are currently testing the new clays and observing their performance for jewellery, modelling, miniatures and doll making. We will update this page as soon as they are completed. Sue H.
http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/acatalog/Information_on_changes_to_Fimo_clays.html
.......Miniature Doll Fimo is a lot softer than it was when it was first re-introduced. The latest batch was very difficult to use for original sculpts of miniature dolls although it is still fine for moulding.
.......Soft Doll Fimo is also currently very soft. We are waiting for more information from the manufacturers about this problem. (Meanwhile, if you are having difficulties, you may wish to use Sculpey Living Doll instead. I have found this clay is excellent for making both full size and miniature dolls.) Sue H.
...while the general hobbyist will probably find the clays easy to use, some of our professional users who have "higher demands on the clays, particularly the dollmakers, are not happy. ...we are currently testing the new clays and observing their performance for jewellery, modelling, miniatures and doll making. We will update this page as soon as they are completed. Sue H.
http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/acatalog/Information_on_changes_to_Fimo_clays.html

(the following things were written before the refomulations of 2007)
I prefer a firmer clay for sculpting small faces (I use FimoClassic.) Leslie
...(Katherine Dewey): FimoSoft is a pretty good sculpting clay, but blended 5 parts Fimo Soft with 1 part Classic Fimo and you have a very good sculpting clay. Soft enough to push into shape, yet firm enough to hold the shape you given to it and resistant to fingetprints. It also has the "smudge factor", and semas blend easily. I found it not quite as strong as Classic Fimo, nor Premo. As I'm one who believes the strength of a sculpture should come from within, i.e. armatures, the 5 to 1 Fimo Soft/Classic Fimo blend mentioned above proved to be a very good clay for very intricate work. Fimo Soft, on its own, did not stand up to the task.
...I mostly use Fimo soft. I love the constancy of the clay, and seams disappear easily, and it suits me well because I have not so warm hands. Christel
...I've been sculpting horses - my other great love! Fimo Soft is a great sculpture material - blends to itself with ease, minimal cracking, and stronger than S Sculpey. I also find the translucency of SSculpey difficult - can't see what's happening!. . . . Maximum clay thickness should be no more than 1". Donna Kato
...I had always worked with Fimo. My husband had to condition the Fimo for me and when the new stuff (FimoSoft) came out I just couldn't work with it at all. I didn't like the colors or texture and it was harder to work with. I really freaked because my whole line and livelihood was based on the old Fimo. Well, I started mixing Cernit 50/50 with the Classic Fimo and got INCREDIBLE results. I can mix it myself, it takes 75% less mixing, the colors are sooo vibrant and it's stronger than the original Fimo was! It is soooo much better to sculpt with! ...You don't have to draw (leach?) the moisture out or anything- a few runs thru the pasta machine & you're in business. I can sculpt all day & night without having tendon problems, too! Kristy
...Fimo's Classic is too hard and Soft is too soft for me, so what I have been doing for my sculptures is mixing the two together in proportions 1:3 - 1:5 depending on the firmness I want (Classic being the smaller proportion). Christina

PUPPEN Fimo ("Doll Fimo") . . . comes in 3 shades --porcelain (-03), rosé (-43), naturell.... packages are 500 grams.
...You cannot compare this clay with the small packages fimo classic. . . Doll fimo (puppenfimo) is much easier to condition and works and feels very different.
...Also I find PuppenFimo the best polymerclay to work with, you can work so tiny with it and so full of detail.
..... It doesn't looses its shape when curing, doesn't get too soft when sculpting. And most of all, I think this is the only polymerclay (in Holland ) that doesn't get the plastic shiny look after curing (I compared Fimo, Cernit and CrealTherm).
.... Also compared the 'smearability' (new word?) ;-) If you make a head you usually have to add layers of polymerclay. Fimo is very easy to smear and smooth. Cernit was the most difficult, I had to try to melt the parts in each other, and CrealTherm was in between those two brands. Easier to smear/smooth than Cernit, but it still took more time with this brand than with fimo to smoothen the lines of new layers I had added. . . .I'm curious about Premo and Sculpey, are they easy 'smearable'? Marika
.... I have Puppen Fimo in Rose but I find it too hard to condition, and not as easy to sculpt with as Prosculpt... Maybe on a larger scale I would like it better but not on small faces!! Nanner
....I e-mailed Maureen at Wee Folks about your question…"It isn't quite the same, though both will work for dolls and figures. PuppenFimo is a bit less elastic than is regular FIMO. The FIMO #43 tends to be dry. I would add MixQuick to it." Myself, I have added diluent to the puppin to soften it as it is rather dry to start in my mini food processer which I use since I almost always mix in the porcelian Puppin to lighten and make more translucent. I think it is the " less elastic bit that helps the
...Puppin Fimo holds fine detail better. At least adding the same product to lighten or darken should not affect the internal integrity of the baked clay. Cheryl
... I have used a lot of different clays and mixes I keep coming back to the Puppen fimo becuase it is soft colored and stiff enough to get better detail , in the miniatures I make.
......To brighten it up the easiest is to buy powder makeup and lighly brush onto the unbaked clay,
......I use powdered blush for the ckeeks and a light brn pastel chalk for the eyebrow/eyelash area's to get more sparkle use sparkly face powder that shimmers for character dolls usually a matte finish is better, atry different brand to get different effects.
........I find that SuperSculpey does not take powders as well as PuppenFimo and can look cakey, so do tests first .
........You can mix Puppin Fimo flesh with Puppin Fimo porcelian to lighten. Cheryl
.......If you like a darker color (than PuppenFimo), Prosculpt is great to work with , easy to seam like the Puppin Fimo , and comes in ethnic colours, though it's not as moveble or as translucent as the Cernit which I use in larger dolls but not in miniatures as is too soft. Cheryl
....a friend of mine sculpts in SuperSculpey, then applies a thin layer of Cernit over it to give it a more translucent look. experiment, have fun…Cheryl

PROSCULPT (sold by Jack Johnston, sculptor )
... you might also want to try Prosculpt, which is a new clay particularly formulated for doll makers. Jack Johnson is the vendor
..........he also makes wonderful dolls and has workshops, books and videos.. Cate
... I really like Prosculpt because it is so smooth and strong...and the fingers don't break off like with Cernit and Fimo.
....But, it gets really soft fast (like Cernit)
...it's also more expensive than the other flesh-colored clays
...J.Johnsons Prosculpt. It's really nice to work with. It doesn't moon or crack, but it isn't as translucent as some of the other flesh clays
.....His clay also blends better than a lot of them I've seen.
........ I can sculpt really tiny faces with Pro-Sculpt much more easily than with Cernit though
....Prosculpt's Caucasian is pink, ugh. Dianne C.
.........Caucasian for me bakes up way too dark... don't even want to use it for my reg adult dolls. GardensOfUtopia
.....Ethnic ... Prosculpt also comes in a deep brown (so has to be mixed to get lighter colors)
...Jack Johnston's clay Prosculpt is a very strong clay and wonderful sculpting clay--just does not come in enough colors.... I would rate it equal to Premo in surface hardness. Jeanne R.
....(2008) ProSculpt now offers new colors: Light (esp. for fairies and goth), Baby, and Translucent White
......Baby is a wonderful color! I adore it alot when making babies. It's a rosier color than Light. GardensofUtopia
.........I use Baby for everything ...to see what Baby looks like, check out my gallery where everything in the top 3 rows is Baby (the 1st two on 4th row are Caucasian, you can see how much darker)
.........I used to sculpt in Roma Plastelina so sculpting in Prosculpt is the closest thing to that real clay feel for me, blending, etc. Nanner
......Light ...light color, little or no translucency
.........(aka Fairy Light) is really light, but not as light as porcelain... I use fairy Light with mostly everything, even baby sculpts.
........ I also paint (antique) my babies a nice rosie color and makes them look more real rather then clayish sometimes. GardensOfUtopia
......Translucent White is great... alot of people like to use it for teeth and eyes too
.........people also use it for mixing with other clays (to make them more translucent). GardensOfUtopia
...ProSculpt is not as translucent as Cernit--- but if you add Premo translucent you can get something close to Cernit--problem is, it then begins to work like Cernit. Hard at first and then too soft
......I found what works best for me though --work a little, then sit it on marble or glass so it hardens a little and cools... go back again later and do a little more. It is amazing what you can touch the next time and how much more control you have over the clay. Jeanne
......I use a light dusting of powder once I get it smooth. The powder makes it easy to make even smoother with no fingerprints. Jeanne
.... I normally don't touch the clay all that much with my hands
...... I keep my babies' limbs etc on a rod or toothpick, and I cut away with tools and smooth as I go
...... When i add patches though like "fatty area's to the face," I like those to be warm and done by hand...they seem to smooth easier.
...... I do though somtimes get really soft clay when I have to touch, but that is mostly when I am kneeding at the beginning and shaping my pieces. After I do this I put it in the fridge for a few minutes.GardensOfUtopia
(for tips on too soft clay, esp. if you have hot hands or are working in a hot environment, see Conditioning > Cooling)
....I have been thinking about mixing brands for strength and for better color
......I think we just need to realize that we have to mix to get the colors we want. Dianne C.
...ProSculpt also sells his own brand of polymer clay diluent (like Sculpey's Softener-Diluent), which is called Smoothing Oil

mixing clays: Years ago, when I was low on Super Sculpey, and in rush to finish a sculpture, I used Cernit, blending it with Super Sculpey at a one to one ratio. That piece is now more than ten years old, and shows no sign of decomposition.
Katherine Dewey
(.....Clay brands can all be mixed together, as far as I can tell. The main caveat is that when caning, *any* clay mixes, or colors mixes within one brand for that matter, must result in the same consistency or the cane will distort more easily when reducing.)

There are also edible candy doughs that look and work like polymer clay (which can be made --easy-- or purchased)
... they can be made into little figures or items, as as well as cast in molds, or caned... then eaten if desired
[for all details, see Kids-Beginners > More (Various)]

some suppliers

Puppenfimo & Cernit, (& LaDoll..not polymer) ...... sculpting clays sold at Polymer Clay Express
http://polymerclayexpress.com/dollmaking.html
...(for more on LaDoll, see Air Dry below)

ProSculpt
The Clay Store: http://www.theclaystore.com
Onestoppolymerclayshop: http://www.onestoppolymershop.com/page/939390

(SuperSculpey is sold by many online suppliers, as well as in craft stores, etc.)

for more suppliers, look in Supply Sources > Polymer Clays

To answer your question, there isn't any hobbyist product I know that will give you the same results (as oven-bake clays-- produce similar results, smooth, plastic-and-rubber-like texture and feel). But some come close. Here are some alternatives:
1) Low melt plastics will give you the plastic/flexible finish you desire. Typically this is sold as pellets or sheets of material that soften when placed in boiling water. One brand is called Friendly Plastic. This stuff is formed rather than sculpted - and it's not really possible to mix colors. So forget about figurines, mixing colors, and detailed molding.
2) Air dry clays such as DAS (see also Apoxie Sculpt below) generally give a hard, plaster-like finish. Some air-drying versions of children's (air drying) clay may give more of a "plastic" finish, but they probably are not stable and colors are limited. If all you want is the satiny gloss of plastic, but not the flexibility, use air-dry clay and paint it with acrylic paints.
....Makin's Clay . . (composition? ... same as stone ground mineral clays below?)...This is a GREAT product esp. for children. ....within an hour it was set up enough to take home... Works really, really well. Smooth as silk and molds perfectly in Amaco molds, Alley Goop molds and Miracle Molds. Perfect consistency for working. . . of course this is a fairly new product and has not had any time to dry out on the shelf . . . (does not have the feel at all of all the products like DAS Modeling material or the other similar non-polymer clays... works so much like polymer clay.... only thing I would need to watch now is whether it has cracking upon curing/drying or it shrinks. I would think it would shrink a little since moisture has to go to set up. It starts to dry fairly quickly and if a spritz of water is added, it can work longer. But unless the water is worked into the clay very evenly, I think there could be some light crackling. I do see possibilities---esp. for miniaturists! Jeanne http://www.Makin'sclay.com/mc/aboutus.asp
..... for fine-detail and air-drying, stone ground mineral clays, see below in Stone Ground...)
.....(for a material that's cheap and easy-to-carve after drying but not perfectly smooth for creating 3-D forms (even for kids), see vermiculite and plaster mix in Carving > "Carving" Sculptures ...not polymer, but could be embellished with glued-on bits of clay)
An applied surface finish can give you the look you need. Get DAS or another air-dry clay and have fun. Then get a set of acrylic paints, some interesting acrylic mediums, and experiment. Almost any texture can be produced. If you want a smooth, rubbery look that is not grainy or clay-like, then rub the piece down with acrylic gesso before painting. To get a cartoon-like " claymation " finish as you describe, paint shapes separately with flat color, then assemble them.> Which leads to:
3) Acrylic mediums. (see also Form-It and Liquitex modeling paste below too??) These are usually spread out in painting to produce thin, flexible films on paper or canvas, but there is no reason they can't be used in the round - many modern artists do - except that they are expensive and somewhat toxic(???), and so you should wear gloves or use tools. Squeeze out a blob of acrylic paint and let it dry. See if it's close to what you want. The manufacturers make a host of matte and glossy impasto (thick?) mediums, iridescent and metallic gels, and of course a wide range of colors. This stuff also adheres well to almost everything, including glass and metal, and has been formulated for permanence. Acrylics air dry rather rapidly, so you can't leave a shape uncompleted "til next time", although you can continue to build since the stuff sticks so well. This is tricky to work with.....even the thicker impasto medium can be too moist to model....and then a surface film forms as the acrylic dries out. Which leads to....
4) Papier mache…A very simple and effective sculpture medium is papier mache. This can be very sophisticated indeed - and also can be used as a core/filler with acrylic paints, which will cut the price quite a bit. As children we were taught to glue strips of newspaper together, which looked rough, but the trick is to boil/mash the paper until it disintegrates and the pulp is completely smooth. Use lots of water, you can always squeeze it out later...
Instead of plain paste, you can bind the pulp with acrylic medium - then, depending on how much acrylic you add, and how moist the mix, the pulp becomes a hidden filler to stretch your acrylics. Less acrylic and drier pulp yields a firmer, more grainy material. Acrylic paints mix and thin with water, so there is no problem here. This is MUCH easier to model with than straight acrylic, and you can add color and detail with outer layers of pure acrylic. Items made in this way, then smoothed and painted with acrylic, will resemble polymer clay a lot. They will be slightly flexible, but much lighter in weight than polyclay tems of the same size.
Note that paper mache has a very short working life before the binder starts hardening - especially if the binder is acrylic resin. Best to prepare as much pulp as possible, then mix with binder in small batches.
(for more info on papier mache, see Armatures)
5) spackle and filling compound …Hardware store solutions: The paint section of your fix-it centre will offer spackle and filling compound. These are usually cellulose fiber mixed with a resin or plaster binder - in other words, ready-made paper mache mix. Mum can't object to THAT! These products have been formulated to fill cracks in walls, so they do not shrink when drying, unlike plaster. This is important if you are matching parts of a figurine or model.
6) (I do NOT advise using the various putties and epoxies from the hardware store. None of these have been formulated expressly for long-term contact with the skin) Ben David . . . though check out the sculpting epoxies below)

(...for more on the characteristics of all "clays," see Characteristics > Types of Clays...).

Air Dry clays

see more info on all these clays in Characteristics > Types of Clays

(Of the many types of "clay" on the market, modeling clay, air-dry clay and polymer clay are the three types most commonly used in crafting.
The various types are defined by how long the clay takes to dry, how hard it sets and its strength, its workability how easy to work with, how impervious to water, whether it's one part or two, its final surface texture, if it comes in colors, etc.
...modeling clay, such as Play Dough, is the easiest to use and doesn't harden/dry. This type of clay is especially good or young children to practice with, since it can be repeatedly reshaped into new forms.
...air-dry clays are best used for permanent creations, since they will ultimately harden and cannot be reshaped; most clays of this type will set in about 24 hours. ... doesn't require the use of heat to dry and set the finished piece.
...polymer clay is a little tougher to work with but is also more versatile. ...(DIY)
...Laguna brand clays (Ovencraft -350 for 1 hr .... Ovencraft II -350 for 30 min...... Self-Hardening Clay -1-3 days,no oven)

Some air dry clays are Amaco Mexican Pottery Clay, Amaco Marblex Clay, Amaco Stonex Clay, Adica Pongo Das Air Dry Clay, Jovi Air Dry Clay, Binney & Smith Crayola Model Magic Air Dry Clay, Creative Paper Clay, Hearty Clay Air Dry Modeling Clay,
....variety of air dry clays:.... Crayola Model Magic, Delight (made by Paperclay company) or Hearty Clay (claycompany.com) - white one bag of Paperclay

Mexican Pottery Clay by Amaco ...very blendable
...I'd like to make some pottery beads and put polymer clay on them, like a flower here and there.
.....I think the warning about not curing it in the oven is because if there is the slightest bit of moisture in the center, the piece will explode, and if someone is opening the oven just at that time...well, I can hear the lawyers now
.... However, I have also found that if it air-dries until not cold to the touch, then left in a barely warm oven overnight, it can be oven-baked at the same temp. as PC. Consequently, if I plan to be extraordinarily patient, I can combine MPC and PC for some very interesting, beautiful effects. I'll put some up when they're finished. I refuse to be responsible for injuries to anyone, though -- that stuff is like shrapnel if there is moisture trapped inside. Kelly
... Sounds like it might be best to make the components from each material separately and then combine them. Using two-part 5 minute epoxy to adhere polymer embellishments onto the pottery clay or vice versa should work...would that do? Meredith
....the Amaco clay may have some shrinkage, so dry beads thoroughly and cook them first…MJ

Another air dry clay is Bond Kelly Clay (???)
... 18 colors, 4 oz bars $5.29; 6-color sets $5.50, but no indication of oz. .(available only in the Far East or by mail order?)--flexible in thin areas as well; must be kept damp until use
http://www.bcsgc.com/aboutclay.htm (gone?)

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Modena clay ??? is very flexible after air drying, not shrinking so much as cold porcelain and stays flat. Because of the flexibility, Martha from ACDS found out that you can make a lot of home decorations with the JEM cutters and the GMF cutters. Without any support it stays flat. You can bend it after drying. Just take a look at all the ideas on the pricelist. This product is only available in white but you can knead accryl paint and oil colors through it and you can also paint it after drying."

paper clays ? (air dry)

(for more on paper clays, see Characteristics > Types of Clays ... and also Armatures)

Makins' is a version of paper clay similar to Creative Paperclay, but comes in colors.
Hearty and Model Magic also come in colors.
(Celluclay is an unmixed version of a paper clay, but leaves a bumpy surfaces and not as easy to work with as the pre-mixedclay forms... comes in white or gray)

I have used Creative Paperclay with very good results. Overall, I found it to be a very good medium and believe you will enjoy working with it. Here are some hints based upon my own use of it:
--You can tint it, even if you are planning to paint it. This will give you color gradients if you want them, or natural blends. If you dislike the color, you can just paint over them.
--Sanding and carving are both very easy to do and if you make an error you can just add more clay let it dry and re-do it, or sand/carve off the part you don't like and rebuild it.
--You can use any type of paint, I used acrylic.
--I also used a good clear acrylic spray to seal mine. I found spraying light coats prevented bubbling and left a nice even look.
--You can use molds, plastic are the only ones I used, which release easily because the clay shrinks ever so slightly and that is something may want to to keep in mind if you are using scale. Do a couple of experiments.
--Also you can put paper clay in the oven if you desire something to dry quickly. About a 250 degree oven at 30 minutes for most, unless they are extremely thick, but check the packaging directions.
--I cannot really attest to the durability as I made faeries that are hung, so they are not really handled too much, but I know paper clay makes beautiful jewelry and that must stand up to use. Hope this helps some. Donna in GA
....I've used paperclay in making miniatures. I've made an Egyptian scene where I covered all the walls and floor with paperclay and then textured it to look like stone. ....I haven't used it yet to sculpt figures.... I really like the texture while I'm handling it but don't like it when the clay dries on my hands! Euuuuu! ... one good thing is putting on new layers and having it blend together really well. Donna in Mt.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1657966&uid=448958

Makin's Clay ...very smooth........by ProvoCraft?, or Dutch? .... acid free (when dry)...lignin free
........9 colors (incl. glow in the dark) http://www.makinsclay.com/US/eng/products/basic_color.htm
....... can mix colors, or color w/ acrylic paints http://www.makinsclay.com/US/eng/products/mixing_chart.htm
........"does not have the same feel as air dry products like DAS Modeling material or other similar non-polymer clays"
... works a lot like polymer clay
.......starts to dry out fairly quickly ...if water-spritzed, can work longer but must work in very evenly, could be light cracking? Jeanne
...many projects http://www.makinsclay.com/US/eng/makins/aboutus.htm (click on Project Gallery)

Hearty Clay (by Venture Craft)... cornstarch-based?? or paper based??? air dry clay
...soften until pliable before using... must keep air tight until used.... comes in colors...(must be sealed?)
http://www.claycompany.com/htips.htm
some project lessons (roses, etc.) http://www.claycompany.com/projects.htm
....I buy the white clay and color it with a few drops of paint (acrylic=opaque) or oils (translucent?) ...can paint on dried clay too
...the colors Hearty sells are (very bright)horrendous don't give a realistic colored flower. Hazel
... air-dried... when dried, has a suede-like feel that's also flexible.
When the clay is wet, it will stick to each other and create a very strong bond. It may be necessary to use glue to ensure bonding once clay dries. Water and hand lotion will help keep the clay from drying
...available at Walmart?, some craft stores (D&J Hobby, Ben Franklin, etc.)... see link above for Retailers
....In the last issue of Craftrends there was an ad for Hearty Clay and it was called "polymer clay" in the ad. ....it does not work, feel, act, or in anyway appear to be polymer clay. I checked out an opened package that must have been opened for weeks at Hobby Lobby this past week. It is brittle, easily broken, can be rubbed apart if allowed to dry. Since it was in its package, it had not been conditioned as we do polymer clay so that may be why it was not durable. Jeanne R.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,,HGTV_3352_1906864,00.html (photo)
Emi's lesson on using Hearty Clay for doll and clothing
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_2014206,00.html
Emi's short book using Hearty Clay, "Expressions With Air-Dry Clay"
http://tinyurl.com/tyoq8
...can use Rub N Buff or metallic paint on
... I've used other? paper clays (not the Hearty brand you mentioned) and they didn't work as well as Hearty which has more elasticity so when you flatten a piece it doesn't get jagged edges. Hazel
BOOKs: Expressions with Air Dry Clay (by Emi Fukushima, Donna Kato, etc.. published by Design Originals, Can Do)...other books, and a VIDEO: :http://www.claycompany.com/mall/ProductPageTools.asp & http://www.claycompany.com/mall/ProductPageTools2.asp
...One thing I've been experimenting with lately is Hearty Clay. It's a fairly new product. When it dries, it's feather light. It's great for making jewelry embellishments that need to be attached to costumes because it won't weigh the fabric down.
...Pretty much anything can be used to make props- wood, clay, plastic, etc. People usually prefer light weight materials because they're easy to carry around at cons. Toka_pop
...you must first papier maché it then you can fibreglass it to harden it papier maché can be left alone if you arent expecting any abuse to it. For something more permanent use fibreglass ontop of it... Wet sand it and WEAR A MASK & GLOVES! Once it's sanded fill any uneven craters on the surface with body filler (Bondo) resand (trust me you will have to sand and resand a good amount!) Once you've gotten it to the smoothness you desire, paint away. I use primer because Im anal like that, but after all that sanding you really dont have to....you can get fiberglass at any auto repair store or at Home Depot.. go to the paint section, it should be near the sandpaper. It comes packaged in clear plastic wrap-ness. You will need to buy either a fibreglass cloth or mat and the resin for it. they come in a starter kit but its not worth it. the cloth that comes with it is short and the resin can is little. Also you may need a hardener.. jsut dont use too much or as its curing, it will appear to smoke up and over heat. digitalcactus
...http://forums.cosplay.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=182&highlight=fiberglass

Model Magic by Crayola (generally sold for kids... comes in a few colors)... paper? clay?
.......very marshmallow-y texture.... and very lightweight when dry
.....We don't use it for Dolls heads but rather we have used it in...creative scenery bases... for example...it worked fantastic for a beach scene we were doing. ...It smooths out so nice with a little water spray on it (slightly damp it seems to spread really well...but not to much water) ...anyway..Richard forms a beach scene of wind blown beach sand with hills and valleys...shells implanted in the model magic then removed for baking and painting then replaced in their formed spot. Also you can put in foot prints and it looks like someone has been walking in the wet sand.... Then we air dry and spackle paint about 6 colors that you would see in beach sand, and use a hair dryer in between coats of paint...this builds a neat textures looks and feels like sand...Jodi
... also amazing how much detail it picks up if you use it as a mold and then press polymer clay into it after it has hardened.Picked up every tiny detail of everything I was making molds of.Only problem I found with it,is that after a while it has a tendency to tear like paper and I haven't found a way to fix this.Even the thick pieces.So now I only will use it to create molds to impress with poly clay. Peggy

...If your paper clay is cracking, you may be using it in too thick a layer--try it over an armature/base, like a blown egg or a balloon for heads, over aluminum foil or cardstock rolled and paper taped for limbs, bodies, etc.. . . As to finishing, Van Craig sands and then paints his, I've seen others do things like dip in wax, gesso, or just leave as it is. Sarajane

Crafty paperclay from Japan. . . An economical air dried paper-based clay suitable for projects utilizing modeling techniques, press molds or cookie cutters. Sticks to any core material: wire, wood, glass or paper. Can be carved, polished or sanded when dry. Raw clay can be added even when dry. Can be painted with any type of paint.
http://www.miniworlddolls.com/Goodstuff/TipsClay.htm

"cold porcelain" clays
(air dry)

There are a number of brands and recipes of a silky-feeling, air-drying "clay" which seems to be made from cornstarch, white glue, white oil paint, etc.

... it can be mixed and then cooked ...from scratch recipes, or from the (thick, white?) "glue" and the "powder" sold by one of the brands, or it can be bought as a premixed "paste" clay (which seems to be the best consistency and best to work with)
...dries in 24 hrs - 3 days, depending on thickness (full cure, one week?)...can also be oven-dried after dry to touch
...does not allow for much detail work.... more useful for objects and sculpts that do not have fine details
...there is less shrinkage than with other air-dry clays during drying (10% compared to up to to 30%) ...can also vary by packet or shelf life for many air-dry clays
...must be very well sealed ...otherwise will be dissolved with water contact and will absorb humidity over time
...now made in many countries (though just becoming known in the U.S.)... seems to have spread from South America, to England, Japan, etc., and becoming very popular in those places
...the raw paste-clay can have color incorporated into it, or it can be painted after drying ....at least one place has several colors already mixed
...treat pretty much like gum paste or fondant
...often used to create very thin, lifelike flowers, but also for jewelry, even sculpts/clothing...

When I first purchased Cold Porcelain Paste, I was told that for the first time I should buy the pre-mixed "paste"
....I loved working with the premixed paste --although it does dry a little fast for me, and I have to continually mist it
.. I was very impressed with it ...the whitest white imaginable, and smooth.... it dries just as white so that means if it is tinted, you get really good colors. Jeanne R.

I knew when I first smelled the Cold Porcelain Paste that there was a white glue of some sort in it
....I suspect that the Cold Porcelain Paste could be something similar to the cornstarch-and-glue clays, but I did some really good testing and if so, the CPP must be much higher quality version. Jeanne R
(for homemade recipes for cornstarch clays, see Armatures-Temp > Cornstarch Clays)

drying...It takes a full 24 hours to dry, even a 1/4" thick piece
(...if you let it dry by accident when not finished, it can be misted again and even covered with plastic for it to regenerate so it is workable)....becomes stronger as it dries
......after one week it is probably about as dry as it will get....but I always cure mine in the oven at about 165 degrees after dry to the touch. Jeanne R.
...flowers made with cold porcelain clay should normally be left overnight to dry, and large flowers may need longer..... petals can be slightly reshaped the next day by holding over steam and bending.

sealing...All cold porcelain clays that I have found can be damaged by the least bit of water unless sealed very well.... even then, moisture in the air is absorbed by all the ones I have tried. Jeanne R.

If I had wanted to mix my own instead of buying the pre-mixed paste, I would need the Cascorez Cold Porcelain Biscuit which looks like white glue, plus the powder-like substance, then mix those together).
......from what I understood on the web site from Brazil, this mixture had to be cooked to a certain point, then stored in the fridge
........ it looks like there are lots of variables (and since I did not want to deal with all that, I purchased the pre-made paste at first).
.....Cascorez Cold Porcelain Biscuit is the binding agent in Cold Porcelain Paste...it provides elasticity, plasticity, consistency, the high water resistance, and smooth texture
.......the Biscuit can also be added to the pre-mixed paste (CPP) if wanting very specific conditions such as more plasticity or water resistance....(I have experimented with mixing biscuit in the CPP, and have not come up with anything that improves on the pre-mixed CPP though)
.......the Biscuit also used to "glue" the cured pieces of Cold Porcelain Paste together. Jeanne R.

...shelf life . ..I have also found that the shelf life of (all) the air-dried clays makes a huge difference in the shrinkage and how the clays work. Even when I used clays with the same expiration date, from the same batch, there was a difference in how they worked.
(...my suggestion is to use polymer clays whenever possible). Jeanne R.

coloring ...craft powders, chalks ...water colors and acrylics may work...oil-based colors look good, will keep their color, can be rinsed quickly when dusty (using excessive thinners though will create an undesirable plastic finish)
...at least one place has several colors already mixed

shrinkage ...at most, CPP shrinks only 10%
.... pieces dried by a quick method of putting in an oven to finish the drying (after surface dried to touch--- but not dried throughout) shrank more than ones left for an extra week to dry in the open.... I suspect that some way, the surface forms a skin and the rest of the clay dries slowly and does not pull down so quickly. But who knows? Air dried clays are more fickle than polymer clays.
(....also combining 2 different air-dry clays in one project may be difficult because of the diff. amounts of shrinkage) Jeanne R.

armatures
... large pieces should not be made solid because the surface will crack
.......polystyrene (Styrofoam), papier mache, wire wrapped with tissues, paste thinned with water on dried areas, etc., can be used as armatures
....if under polymer clay, I cure Cold Porcelain Paste in the oven right before I cover (about two hours for every inch thick at about 175 dgrees--- and this is even after you think they are totally air-dried!).... if it is not completely dried, it will cause polymer clay to get bubbles; and with the liquid clays, a texture similar to coarse sandpaper will develop under the skin of the liquid clay even though the CPP is perfectly smooth. .
...If not used immediately and if living in high humidity climates, they will absorb moisture and cause problems (I've had no problems if used as soon as removed from oven and cooled). Jeanne R.

molds & texturing
... I used some molds and the CPP shrank just enough to be able to pop out (less than 10%). I could run my fingernail around the inside rim, but no more... remove only once totally dried
...since the CPP is so smooth, it takes textures and molds beautifully
......but when using silicone molds, it takes a very long time to dry..... If dried thoroughly, it does not stick to silicone molds, but if still wet, it will stick. The silicone molds can be put into the oven at the same 165 +/- to completely dry, Jeanne R.

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Lucille's pages on cold porcelain recipes ...plus using cold porcelain to embellish eggs
http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/coldporcelain.html

some cold porcelain links
http://www.celcrafts.co.uk/WebsiteHelp.htm
http://tinyurl.com/ymaazr (translated from Spanish)

U.S.
Craft Porcelain Modeling Material (by Amaco)
http://www.reuels.com/reuels/product6373.html
Cold Porcelain Creations ...Florida... they also sell a large pasta-type roller for the clay
http://www.coldporcelaincreations.com/coldporcelainpaste.htm
Craft Porcelain (aka Porcelana Fria) modelling is a relatively new craft which is growing in popularity.
"...The mixture and art method, while common in South America, is not well known in the United States.. . ."
http://www.craftporcelain.com
...Craft Porcelain Inc. (currently selling in USA, United Kingdom, Australia and South America) ...Craft Porcelain SRL is our manufacturing facility in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

BRAZIL
http://www.decaturdaily.com/decaturdaily/livingtoday/020915/art.shtml ..beautiful flowers
"Mixing cornstarch, grease, Elmer’s glue and lemon juice, Maria McMunn concocts a white clay-like material that she transforms into realistic flowers, leaves and other pieces such as seahorses and starfish she affixes to bathroom accessories or decorative boxes. . . . Maria's clay is air-dried, taking from one to three days to cure, depending on thickness...."

ENGLAND
http://www.celcrafts.co.uk/CelCrafts.htm
http://www.sugarcraft.com/catalog/gumpaste/coldporcelain.htm#whatisit
" Geraldine's recipe"
When using N.T. (non-toxic) Paste Cold Porcelain, some shrinkage will occur. We recommend that you increase sizing to accommodate for this shrinkage until you have experience in making and using N.T. Paste (Cold Porcelain). Ingredients:
3 tblsp Mineral Oil** 2 tblsp Sodium Benzoate (above) 5 oz. White School Glue (NON-TOXIC) MUST BE WASHABLE (must be "School"??)1 tblsp Water 1 cup Cornstarch**

EUROPE
Asi Es Cold Porcelain is sold in Holland (Martha Regtering?) ....but really from Buenos Aires, Argentina?
Titi Pain, manufacturer and artist?....

BOOKS, MAGAZINES, etc.
http://www.sugarcraft.com/catalog/gumpaste/BCP.JPEG Cold Porcelain Projects (book by Margaret Ford)
http://www.lisandrascreations.com/revistas.html Curso Practico de Modelado en Porcelana Fria (magazine)
http://www.sugarcraft.com/catalog/gumpaste/CP-Works1.jpg C.P. Works magazine & Cold Porcelain Magazine (translations?)
...also Modela con Pasta Flexible (bread dough clay?)

(see cornstarch, glue, glycerin & cold cream recipe in Cornstarch > Cornstarch Clays for a cornstarch-based "clay" without the glue or oil)

JAPAN?????
(these are all possibly/probably Japan's version of cold porcelain clay?????... or maybe with additives?)

info on these "fine" air-dry clays at polymerclayexpress
http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/AirDryClays.rtf

Premier . . .. "A natural stone air dried clay of exceptional strength and versatility. Fine grained and malleable it offers strength to small doll parts and permits crafting thin, but strong projects. Sticks to any core material: wire, wood, glass or paper. Can be carved, sanded and polished when dry. Raw clay can be added even when dried hard. Paint with any type of paint when dry. Can be mixed with LaDoll for the added strength of Premier and the beauty of LaDoll
http://www.miniworlddolls.com/CSClays2.htm

...LaDoll clay . . ."It's a Japanese clay (stone-ground mineral clay, air drying, pale gray-white)."
...I've seen it. It is a very very fine clay and resembles porcelain. Never used it, although the folks I know who work with paper clays say it is fabulous. Linda
...La doll clay is an air drying clay brand. I have worked with it when i made dolls but I like polymer clays better... ladoll sometimes cracks when it is drying! Depends on how much water you use with it and how humid is the room you are letting it dry in . . . When you are finished with sculpting with ladoll you proberly need to sand your sculpture first and then paint it with an acrylic paint and then you can varnish it..
.. All clay is expensive here in Holland but if you look at how much a brick a fimo/premo cost then the La Doll isn't at all expensive here. Ria
http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/dollmaking.html (one supplier of LaDoll)

La Doll..."Satin Smooth stone clay. Sticks to any core material, wire,wood, glass or paper. Can be carved, sanded, and polished when dry. Raw LaDoll can be added to dried LaDoll. Paintable with any type of paint, once dried.... for doll making where skin tones are" important"
http://www.bluemoondanzer.com/Airdry.htm

FormoFit and LaDoll ...They are all Japanese air dry clays.... Right now I am working with LaDoll. It is a little bit smoother and I find it nicer to work with than FormoFit. But it is the same brand and almost the same price. This clay is wonderfull.
...Totally different from the polymerclays of course. It has advantages and disadvantages. I like the clay because you can, after it is dry, sculpt it by cutting it with a knife, so correct it that way, sandpaper it, etc and after you wet the dry clay with water you can add more wet clay and so on, till you are satisfied. . . . When it is finished and completely dry you have to sandpaper it and polish it. That is hard work, that is the disadvantage part of the clay. . . .After polishing, use a brush to get rid of all the dust and then you can paint it. I use ordinary paint that is used to paint walls (waterbased). I colour it with acryl-or watercolorpaint and add lots of mineralwater. I painted the parts 6 times, do not tuch the parts anymore, because of the grease on your fingers.Paint de details of the fingers, eyes, lips, etc. Than put protecting spray on it. Glue the eyelashes and put a gloss varnish on the nails, eyes, mouth.
http://home.hccnet.nl/a.werker/anna-dolls/techniques-and-tips-eng.htm

Deco Clay is probably the same thing ... but comes in several colors... http://www.decoclay.com

Epoxy and other Putty clays
for sculpting/carving (before completely dry)

Milliput, a UK product, is similar to Magic Sculpt.... Another epoxy clay or sculpting compound is Aves Epoxy Sculpt.

"Milliput http://www.milliput.co.uk/home.htm . . . .the Micromark catalog has Milliput also
...specially made epoxy compound for the restoration of porcelain and other ceramics. Milliput Superfine White has a very fine grain and pure white in color. Milliput Terra-Cotta has a fine to medium grain. Both colors have a easy 1:1 mixing ratio. ...Both of the putties will set in about 1 hour....adheres well to wood, metal, plastic, glass and porcelain surfaces. It can be easily shaped before hardening or after hardening, drilled, cut and sanded. It can also be tinted during mixing, or painted after drying. ..two 2-1/2 oz. bars (1 bar each of resin and hardener).
....Milliput is one of my favorite expoxies. It's a 2 part, epoxy putty that molds like clay and cures hard (for sculpting when in partly hard stage). You can roll it as thin as 1/64 inch for making super detailed scale parts. One big advantage of this stuff is you can smooth it with a wet finger or tools and it cleans up with water before it cures. It gets leather hard in about 90 minutes and fully cures in 5 hours without heat (or sooner with a hair dryer). Carving this stuff is extremely difficult after it dries completely. You can get 4 ounces of putty for around $12.

Pliacre is a two-part epoxy putty, which may be hard to find these days
http://www.silcom.com/~css/ad1.htm

Gapoxio epoxy clay... tips http://www.miniworlddolls.com/Goodstuff/TipsGapoxio.htm

if you don't need the finest grade, you can probably find a suitable substitute at any hardware store -- it's epoxy putty, usually found in the plumbing section. Comes in a plastic tube, in the form of a cylinder of putty with a white center and green "rind." You mix the two together until it's white again and then sculpt away. (see warning though above in Ben David's descriptions of clays)
http://www.hirstarts.com/sculpt/sculpting.html (sculpting with epoxy ... he allows the putty to sit for 10 min. or so several times to firm up to the point he wants)

try Plumber's Putty, available at most hardware stores, to fill cracks in your cured sculpture pieces.
...looks like a bullseye cane, just slice and mix.
...once the two parts are mixed, you can press it into your work and let it cure (this happens pretty fast so, don't waste time!)
...once cured, it can be sanded and painted. Donna Kato

self hardening clays that mimic what epoxies do:.

FIXIT and Apoxie Sculpt are synthetic ...can be an alternative to sculpting with polymer clay

Apoxie Sculpt,.. Apoxie Clay, and FIXIT .... loads of info about the characteristics and differences between them
http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Comparison_Chart__2_Part_Produ/comparison_chart__2_part_produ.html
http://www.avesstudio.com/FAQ_s/faq_s.html
… 0% shrinkage
…they do stick to polymer clays.... adhere to almost everything (even sticking to it's own cured self), yet harm almost nothing.
....no baking required....non-toxic, no fumes, no gloves required, super adhesive, non-shrinking, super strong and long lasting
...are waterproof, can be painted, filed, sanded, tapped, drilled, etc.
...can even be used on foam (polystyrene foam?) without damage, as the products contain no solvents. They are putty-like in consistency.
...have a working time of about 3 hours; projects needing longer working times are no trouble. Simply finish what you can, then mix up some more and continue working by adding on to where you left off
...The Chicago Field Museum used Apoxie Sculpt exclusively to restore Dinosaur Sue, the full size T-Rex they are exhibiting.... Disney has used these products for many years.
...Doll makers use for repairs and restorations, as well as for originial work
MIXES:
... Some even mix them with polymer clays to strengthen the finished products. Chuck
....Some miniaturists and modelers mix 2 parts Apoxie Sculpt to 1 part Kneadatite for modeling and detailing.

Apoxie Sculpt from AVES Studio
. . . has 10 colors and 2 metals-- (I ordered cream to try & what I got was an unattractive dull silvery gray.).
... if it's sticky, wet your clay, tools or hands to avoid for awhile (Karen)
...an amazing sculpting, repair, restoration and fabrication product
...a self-hardening, 2-part, synthetic clay....putty-like feel.
...cures hard overnight (24 hour full cure).... 0% shrinkage...strongly adheres to almost any clean surface (...can take up to 350o heat)
http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/products.html
http://www.clayalley.com/apoxie.htm (Apoxie Sculpt ...at Clay Alley)

(The armature in my figure are wire wrapped with fusible fleece)...(after baking and before dessing) the head and hands were covered with Apoxie Sculpt (before adding final polymer clay?) ... while Apoxie isn't as light as foil, there's no chance of getting a trapped air bubble that will later crack clay, and Apoxie is rock hard when it dries. DivaLea

For best results in achieving a thin sheet with all of these products:
... knead thoroughly and let it rest for an hour... roll in-between sheets of waxed paper coated with vaseline, and let rest again
...just before it cures or sets (about 2 hours from first mixing), you should be ready to shape it.
. .polymer clay will adhere, but best adhesion occurs before the epoxy completely cures
. . You can freeze mixed epoxy for up to 3 days to extend the working time.
....You can also mix it, once kneaded, with polymer clay. I like a blend of 2/3 epoxy to 1/3 polymer (Fimo seems to work best) for a medium that's easier to use, though not as strong, and has a working time of about 5 hours before it sets up. Katherine Dewey

FIXIT comes in ceramic white and Aluminum. It is a great structural enhancer, but is also used for complete sculptures. It has more uses than I could even tell you.
....The drawbacks for an artist such as myself are many though... Once painted, one must be careful with the artwork as the paint chips off very easily. If I must sand & prime for better adherence it is not worth my time. Also, without an armature it slags down once molded. I sculpted a miniature (1" tall) dragon and sat it down to harden. when I went back to it 30 minutes later it had all but flattened out.

Acrylic clays?

the Acylic modeling paste, or a product called Form-it, a plastic mousse. It's perfect for light weight sculptures and landscapes. (see also Liquid Sculpey, Diluent paste, etc.)--could use as an armature?
~The brand (of modeling paste) I have used for a design class and as grout for some pc mosaics is Liquitex. It is found in the same area as the Gel Medium and Gesso i.e. among the painting supplies. Kat
~I have done 3-d sculptures, etc on wood....using Modeling Paste.....It is just the right consistency to go thru the cake decorating tubes. . . . (I also used a pallete knife on large items giving it form. It air dries, & is very durable...You can put paint in it prior to using, but...I would normally paint it after was dry & usually then antique..and varnish...the end result appeared to be a wood carving.... but for the cake decorations, since it is white, would prob. not need any further treatment. Before I found polymer clay, it was my main craft..and did very well at craft shows....Be sure the Modeling Paste is fresh......or you will be disappointed.... It is acrylic, however, and can be thinned down with water..... donna (mamadonna)

MISC. clays?

Crayola's "Wet Set" by Crayola...…the new water-curing clay from Crayola.
... This modeling clay is soft and pliable indefinitely until submersed in water. It comes in three colors: natural, moss, and terra cotta. It can be painted with acrylic, tempera, or watercolors. Shelly
...This is good stuff, and allows unlimited modeling until you choose to set the clay.
.......What people don't mention is that the water only penetrates a short distance into the clay -so if you model a solid figurine, only a thin shell of not more than 1/4 inch ( 0.5 cm) thick actually hardens and the clay inside is wasted.....so model hollow figures, or use a core of plaster or another cheap material. Ben

There are two "new" clays out on the market. One is called "Microclay." It is a modeling material that can be microwaved or baked in a conventional oven to cure. Colored tempera can be added to the wet clay before curing. It can be painted with any paint after baking. Shelly (where do you buy this??)

...see Hasbro's wax formula (for sculpting toys) below in Dane's Tips

Enlargement . . . "expanding urethane"

HydroSpan ... two-part urethane polymer which will expand 60% (or x1.6) after soaking in water, so any 3-D object (a sculpt, mold, pattern, real world object, etc.) you can create a mold for, can be increased in size (repeatedly, by 60%, if you wish) ... working life =10 min, full cure = 24 hr . . . feels dry to the touch even if cut... "simply make silicone (or polymer clay?) molds from small objects and directly enlarge them. . .
....a flexible urethane polymer, which over time absorbs individual molecules of water deep into itself until it is completely saturated....as water is absorbed the polymer matrix stretches to accommodate the in coming water ... Hardness of cured HydroSpan (before soaking) =45 Shore A, hardness of expanded HydroSpan (after soaking for 14 days @ 72°) =35 Shore A."
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/water_abs_expanding_urethanes.html

find images on the Web to study:
1.Google's "Image Search" feature . . . just enter the type of image you want to see (e.g., a koala, pineapple, sunset) and Google will display *many* http://www.google.com/imghp?hl=en (Image Search)
http://www.google.com/advanced_image_search?hl=en (Advanced Image Search)
2. enter the word "clipart" after whatever you want to find (for example: squirrel clipart), then follow all the links it brings up (these may be mostly graphic drawings).
..for costume (hair,hats,jewelry,etc.) and ethnic faces, see Costume category under Non-Polymer categories

There are an amazing number of shapes you can make with your hands alone!
...A great exercise (for beginners or anyone) is just to play for an hour or two and just see how many shapes you can come up with (I save these in a box for future reference and inspiration).
. . Try to use different areas of your hands and fingers, different amounts of pressure, and different kinds of pinching or pressing, then see what you come up with. (Don't worry about trying to make particular shapes as much as seeing what what things happen when you use certain motions.)
...Actually, just about every shape in polymer clay begins with a smooth ball (or a rolled out sheet). This is the one way we can eliminate all seams, cracks, lumps, etc., so just keep rolling in your palms until the surface is completely smooth.
....Then some of the motions you can use for making your shapes are:
rolling, pinching, pressing, twisting, coiling, stretching/lengthening/etc.
So, after you've rolled a smooth ball in your hands, you could:
...press the shape into a cube, or long or short rectangle
..taper one end by rolling it smaller (for a teardrop or a longer carrot shape... if you flatten this shape on its non-pointed end, you'll have a cone)
...roll your ball into a log (and then you might want to press it into a square, /triangular, or rectangular log, or another shape).
...(could also use a toothpick, knitting needle, or larger rod to roll crosswise over clay logs to indent it, like the posts under a stair railing, or spiral or coil these logs or tapered logs)
. . . In addition to pressing or rolling with your hands, you can use your work surface as a sort of third hand to create flat surfaces (think of flattening the bottom of a teardrop shape to form a Hershey's kiss shape or cone as above)
...After you've developed a basic vocabulary of shapes, you'll have the tools for figuring out how to many just about any shape!
(...for more ideas for shapes and how to make them, also see these pages:
Beads > "Rolling Beads by Hand," and Sculpting Body & Tools)
...There are also sculpting, miniature, and beads/jewelry books you can buy which show many of these kinds of things in detail. Diane B.

A good place to start may be making shapes. Balls, cones, teardrops, snakes, coils...etc. Everything in life is made of those shapes. Once you've started doing these, you may very well "see" something in the shapes. Like a teddy bear made of balls and discs with a cone for a party hat. Also you could play with pushing things into the clay (texturing). A toothbrush to give a fur effect, or crumbled aluminium foil to give a stone texture. Fabric, paper doilies..etc. Maddy

To create a very thick sheet of clay, or a solid rectangular shape like a cube,etc.,, it's a good idea to begin with a stack of pasta machined sheets rather than simply rolling out a pad of clay ... this will make sure the top surface is exactly parallel to the bottom surface
...good for making some cane elements too

I have continued working on a large doll after leaving it for weeks. But I would not try to re-sculpt areas that I had left for a long time (i.e. a few days or more) as the clay does stiffen up and is likely to tear (unless it's gentle warmed up again or only gentle pushes, etc., are used).

too-soft clay ...if you have hot hands, or are working in a hot environment, or like to work and work your clay (especially when using soft clays or Premo, you can use marble work surface or gel packs, etc. to help clay or canes cool down), see Conditioning > Cooling
.....on the dollmakers list, there has been a lot of talk how some freeze their dolls just before baking! Sue Heaser

liquid clay also makes a great glaze/protection of small pieces that might get knocked off with wear and tear eg....whiskers on my bunnies or cats or flower stems/leaves in my mini baskets. Victoria

A fews weeks ago I asked for suggestions how to salvage a scorched (figure). I wanted to paint it (all over) to give it a bronze or pewter look.
Several of you suggested using Future and Pearl-ex. I mixed the silver Pearl Ex and a tiny bit of gold Pearl-ex together before adding Future (to them)...mixing the two powder colors together seemed to take away some of the brassy look of the gold). mary (yields a bright, shiny, dark-silver or light-pewter finish)
... for more ideas, see also below at the bottom of "Keeping White Clay White"

BAKING
...see most info in Baking
...If you make a figure out of clay and keep a heat-gun handy, you can heat sections of the figure AS you build it ...and save yourself the trouble of an armature. The technique works REMARKABLY well. it saves propping them up in the oven, and the heartbreak of splitting. The baking may not be complete <always> but you'd be surprised how this material TRANSMITS heat throughout its structure. Heat a foot and the WHOLE THING hardens. I doubt you get maximum strength (could repeated partial baking be a problem?), but it's perfect for small original sculptures with protruding parts.The only thing you have to watch for is NOT to overheat the thin parts or they'll scorch and even burn.. so 'waft' over it. (a bit more on heat guns is in Tools)
...Katie's lesson on baking a standing. figure
...... to make sure the feet are really flat, and the weight of the sculpt is well-balanced over the feet (& because that can change slightly when the clay softens during baking), she firsts partially cures just the feet of a med-small sculpt by heating it with a heat gun or hair drying while it's standing on a ceramic plate or sheet of glass (not in oven)
......after cooling, she hangs it in the oven from an oven rack (by an "armature wire" she's left sticking out of the top of the head) with its feet on a plate and bakes it for 8 min in standing position
......lays it down on a cloud of fiberfill (with a bit of fiberfill over the projecting hands and feet), then bakes for an additional 15 min+... cools in oven
http://tutorials.theclaystore.com/techniques/firing-a-standing-polymer-clay-doll
....Bunny's lesson & explanation on using a heat gun (to cure fingers of a sculpture to a certain shape, in this case)
http://www.thewildbunny.com/HeatGun.htm (gone)

Cultivate a "light touch" when sculpting as opposed to a heavy hand (...use a finger to "pet" the clay and remove any fingerprints that appear). Sarajane
....Maureen suggests using a series of light fingertip pats while sculpting and shaping clay, rather than pressing firmly on the clay surface.... It was easy to adapt my sculpting techniques to light taps and strokes, and after awhile they developed a natural rhythm. The end result is fewer fingerprints.

After years of using only Super Sculpey, I developed a few techniques that suited my heavy handed touch:
...the first was leaching
... the 2nd was moistening my tools and finger tips with water to reduce drag. (Dewey?)

if you see shiny areas on your raw clay, it probably means that you smoothed the clay more in certain areas (with tool or finger)
...to remove that shine, you can 'wet' the surface with water and rub ...something I recommend to do before painting anyway. Jodi

For rolling even logs of clay (without fingerprints), roll the clay log under a sheet of glass or plexiglas. DB

cleaning ...and/or smoothing

OLD DUST (before baking):
If left uncovered, over time raw clay items or just hunks of raw clay will get covered with dust, which is hard to remove!
...some possibilities for removing old dust (more details on these + more possibilities discussed above or below):
......try using various "solvents" like water, alcohol, acetone, or even liquid clay or Diluent-Softener --on a brush or a wipie or anything that seems to work, then smooth out again (use light strokes, rubs, till you see how each is working)
...try slicing off, cutting off, or somehow abraiding off just the topmost layer of clay, especially in the worst areas, then smooth out again
.....one abraision idea is using Bon Ami or cornstarch as a very-very fine grit, rubbing it around... they rinse off pretty easily from raw clay
Or BAKE the items first, then do one of the following things till the top layer is gone:
.....sand them using wet wet-dry-sandpaper, or sanding sponges, or 0000 or other grades of steel wool (after doing those, you'd need to then buff the abraided areas to get back the finish you had before, or use a liquid acrylic finish on the areas in a gloss, satin or maybe matte, depending on the look you want)
....texture the areas (even lightly) to hide the dust... or add metallic wax (or metallic powder in a medium) to the higher areas of the whole figure or just to the worst spots... or just paint over those areas (acrylic paints) or use light washes. Diane B (more details on all below)

....I also use a pointed blob of Blu Tack to pick off any cat hairs, specks, whatever has landed on the raw clay while I'm working. Pat
...a fairly sticky clay like Sculpey is good for picking up bits on hands, tools, work surfaces too
.....I pick up little cat hairs and shmutz on the surface of clay scotch tape . . . I sometimes even use one of those sticky lint rollers for larger areas (be careful with the lint roller though - once it stuck to the clay itself almost destroying the design. I guess less contact is more?). Kathy S.
(more ide

solvents

water is my savior for making softer looking sculpts and smoothing clay.
....... I use it on my tools by pre-dipping them.
....... I use it on my fingertips while sculpting (always in an up & down finger motion, so the ridges of my finger prints don't transfer to the clay). Wayne the Dane
...gently rub a moist finger over the raw clay (if you're using Sculpey, Premo or Kato... not best for the Fimo's)
............I have found that a tiny bit of wetness applied to a smooth tool will aid in smooshing clay, even Fimo.
.......before painting on clay, and to remove any "shiny" spots on raw clay , you can 'wet' the surface of your piece with water and rub. Jodi
......will help rid untextured areas of bumps and ridges
......or will soften texture in textured areas

very mild abrasives:
...a litte baby powder (or cornstarch) on the tip of your finger, rubbed onto the clay surface in a light circular motion, usually smooths out the prints, and I find that it alnost gives the clay a buff shine even before you bake.....Robin
..."finger buffing" the surface with cornstarch or talcum powder is good for large areas...nice for smoothing eggs

(....for more on using powders, liquid, oils, etc., like Bon Ami, SoftScrub, Vaseline, etc. to smooth, "sand," or get rid of fingerprints, look in Sanding > Smoothing Before Sanding > Abraisives and also "Solvents")

"BRUSHING DOWN" (see just above for recipes)
..."brushing down" (with alcohol & Diluent-Softener) is the technique preferred by industry sculptors who work in polymer clay, and it's the last step before a piece goes into the oven for baking (if needed)
.......It takes some practice to determine the right touch and the right amount of flow, but it's a life saver.
.......wipe the brush on a paper towel, and carefully brush your sculpture
....If you must touch the work, wear gloves or finger cots, because the alcohol will soften the clay.
...also place your sculpture on its baking stand before you brush it down, and let it rest several hours before you bake it.
....It can be sanded (start at 320 or 400 grit, and work your way up to the higher numbe