Gen. Info
MAKING textures
..Misc. tools for texturing
.....making your own tools
..Cylindrical texture tools + rolling (using tools or sheets)
Texture SHEETS
..Purchased
.....types (plastic, rubber, heavy paper, wood) & sources
..Making your own texture sheets/molds (from clays,foil,carving, etc,etc.)
......other materials to make sheets from (silicone,latex,foam,paint,etc)
..Releases
USING texture sheets and textured surface
Antiquing & highlighting textured surfaces
...Flattening antiqued-highlighted textured surfaces
More info.& ideas... leaves, prints, drawing, stamping, salt/sugar, etc
Misc. for all textures
Websites

TEXTURING
(for backgrounds, esp.)

Gen. Info

Texturing can be created on raw clay by impressing-stamping it with single tools (especially repeatedly with items such as pins, screwdriver tips, etc.), or purchased textured items (such as sandpaper or plastic/rubber texture sheets) or texture sheets made by the clayer--using raw clay which is then baked, or using other impressionable materials.

These sheets (or other shapes) of texture can be used to directly "stamp" into raw clay to create a decorative textured are.
Or the purchased or made texture sheets can be used to make a reverse texture sheet by impressing it into raw clay, baking, then using that baked clay sheet on a fresh raw sheet or other area for actual use (...in this case, they're more like a texture "mold" because the high and low portions are reversed from directly stamping).

You can make your own texture sheets from other materials besides clay, as well:
....for example, from 2-pt. silicone putties, liquid latex, light-sensitive polymer plates, foam sheets... even dried paint or glue on cardstock, string or other materials glued to wood, etc..

Purchased texture sheets may be plastic or the rubber ones used for "rubbings" or for rubberstamps, but they may also be things you find around the house such as crumpled sandpaper, aluminum foil, netting, corrugated cardboard, etc.

SOME USES:
texturing can be used as backgrounds, to hide fingerprints or other imperfections, to add visual interest.
.....texturing (even very light texturing) can also hide imperfections in expanses of solid color.   Irene NC
....I textured (my connected slices) with a piece of sheer chiffon... gives the little quilt a "fabric" look and camouflages fingerprints, too. :-) Elizabeth
....this can be done with texture sheets or with tools .....here and there or all over

"Texture" can also be created by adding things on top of clay of course, rather than impressing it...see Onlay, and Clay Guns, etc. for some ex's
(...if the onlays are made with liquids as in "drizzled beads" made with liquid clays or made with liquid lace, see Liquid Clays)

MAKING textures

"Tools" for texturing

Some examples might be the bark of a tree, sandpaper, wire or plastic mesh, various kinds of fabric or wallpaper, textured bathroom glass or texture sheets from art supply stores, velcro, etc.  These are often used as backgrounds, or to add interest to pieces.
...However, all kinds of things from the house and garage can be used to make textures (or in reverse, for molds); I guess it’s more a “texture” when a single impression is used repeatedly
...*polymerclayexpress' lesson on texturing clay with lace and making small frames, metallic wax used for highlighting after baking
http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/jan2002.html

Some samples of household textures might be the shapes of Philips screws or screwdriver heads, wadded aluminum foil, comb marks, bolt sides (great stripes), metal clothing studs, lace, beaded handbag, tiny cedar branches, etc.
...toothpicks can be used for dots or diagonally for a short, tapered line

canteloupe skin is a great texture....roll out a sheet of soft clay, powder the canteloupe, and press....remove, and bake flat. Sarajane

a Coronet paper towel has a nice pattern for my chili pepper .. nice and lumpy and bumpy. Dave

I pressed a slab of raw clay about 1/4" thick and 2"x4" across a basketball, baked, then used it to make white hobnail design dishes. Worked really well. CC

upon close examination of my child's sandal I noticed the neat texture of the sole of the shoe . . . on the bottom and on the insole . . .I pressed some clay into the textures and wow! So now I have some very unusual shaped texture plates for my clay!! Kathy

I found some asian green beans in the international produce section. . .big dark green, and very very bumpy. Patricia in HouTX

. . . . . Here is a list of many of the things that were used to make impressions in the clay for the "texture swap" I participated in (there were 25 participants, each making 3 textures . . . that's right, I got 75 textures!!!):

--screwdriver tips (star-like impressions) --pen tips or caps --crumpled aluminum foil --piece of wide lace (roll over for impression),  --thin, long strip made with small & lg. teeth of comb --diagonal, wormy, raised pattern (plastic texture sheet--art store) --drywall screen (3-M, med.), or any size --sandpaper --plastic canvas (# 7) --med.curved parallel lines --lines of small, thin, depressions --interesting & fancy buttons (from several people) --small parallel lines (grip area on plastic clothespin)  --rough rock (a cylinder stamp) --rough bark (faux wood?) --open-weave, wire-edged ribbon --tiny cedar branches --irregular lines of bumps --end of skewer; scales? (with samples) --insect tunnels from a dead branch --fine, knobby fabric weave? (for borders on pins) --grid of lg & sm discs  --broken taillight --metal studs (stars, rounded, circles--for holding stones?) --basketweave leather tool --raised fat spirals --backpack strap --vent cover impression --rows of logenze shapes (guitar amplifier) --3-diff.-edged cake decorator triangle, --miniature corn (random, all-over),--fine, radiating lines on a hemisphere (like impression of mushroom gills)
(--AND a bee-yooo-ti-ful color photocopy of "Forest Floor"--a multi-textured and multi-colored piece from Jody Bishel, Madam SwapMeister. That's all --jealous yet??  Diane B.   :-)

Some of the textures I received (from the new texture swap) were from:
old printmaking blocks, some ball chain, vinyl strapping, a rock, toys, various plastic mesh bags, textured wallpaper, etc....Irene NC

A plastic fork is good for scoring or making evenly spaced squiggly lines. I use a straw for punching out small circles and different size jar lids for cutting circles.  katbyte1

Velcro for texturing. . . You use the side with the "teeth" (the part that grips the fuzzy side). Place it face down on the clay and press. I pressed firmly for a more pronounced texture. . . I did trim the edges of the velcro so I could butt one strip down next to the other.
...zippers, on edge, make some really cool spirals or other lines

I just found a really cool texture. It's a nutshell left over from last fall, a butternut,I think. It had has high ridges and furrows. I pressed the clay into it and then gently pulled and stretched the edges to flatten it out. Looks great in positive or negative.

I know that lots of folks like to have big sheets of texture to work with but it never worked for me..I can't seem to splice the edges right. What I do is use a lot of smaller stamps to collage together a textured area. This is much easier for larger pieces. Jody B.
...Irene's collage of textured slabs (monochrome though) http://www.good-night-irene.com/ClockLayered01.html

tracing wheels for sewing. . . a little toothed wheel on a handle used to transfer a pattern with sewers' tracing/transfer paper to fabric beneath it.  This tool can be used to make rows of impressions (curved or straight) which resemble quilting stitches, or simply "dotted lines."
. . . architect's tracing wheel??
.....personally I like the tip of the kemper ceramic cleaning tool...beveled on both sides of an arrow shaped point...I can follow the hem line of dress much more neatly and get into smaller crevices.. although I sometimes use an ultra tiny screwdriver too....Cella
...It's a woodworking tool for tracing patterns onto wood surfaces! I got a set of 3 different sizes at a Woodcrafters store in Richmond. I think they have a website too? The smallest one is almost too small to use on the clay in fact. If I recall correctly, the set only cost me $13.00. Joanie
...(see Tools for using these tracing wheels and other items for transferring patterns with chalk/powder, pencil, etc.)

I've told enough people about this to know that some don't know what a "knurled tool" is. It's any kind of cylindrical tool with that diamond-shaped pattern impressed into it, usually into the handle; say a wrench handle, for instance. I use a leather punch handle...(When your pin is just ready to bake, roll the edge of the tool up against the edge of the pin. It puts a little bevel on the edge with an interesting cross-hatch pattern to boot. It even squares it up a bit.)  Mike  B.

One of the texture type tools I've been planning to do is to take my  textured buttons and create a double-ended tool with the positive image on one end and the negative on the other (each end being mushroom shaped –the  whole thing being hourglass shaped).   Helen

Couldn't get along without a Finger Presser from Clover - it's a small plastic tool stitchers (quilters particularily) use to press a seam flat. I use it for all sorts of things from smoothing the edges of clay to indenting to making impressions.  Nancy

(see also using salt, sugar, etc., to create a texture sheet below in More Info & Ideas)

Making Your Own Tools...for texturing

One of my favorite tools is a texture finger cup. You can make them yourself by molding a ball of scrap clay over your finger or as I do over the end of a rounded dowel. My favorite finger cup was made by scoring thin lines raiating out from the center of the cup. Depending how it is pressed into the clay, it can look like pine needles, fireworks, grass or even coral (on a large scale). Jody Bishel
....
Some of the ones I made cameout pretty cool, but I especially love my new signature finger cups. I also made some "lines", "spirals", "geometrical forms", "flowers…PoRRo

Cecelia Determan wrote about a texturing tool for making curly beads or curly fur, in her HOTP book Merry Christmas Faces; she wraps a 1 1/2" length of (20-gauge) wire around a bamboo skewer or pencil tip to form a 1/8" wide circle, and bends both tails back to insert into a handle of clay. This leaves a flat circle standing up to impress into clay. These could be made any size though. Stamp this a number of times on the beard, hair or fur. (DB-add photo)
...you can use the circle side of a safety pin for indenting on clay. -Laurie
...Plankspanker’s wrinkly skins for creatures...his texture plates are made from guitar cases, amiplifiers, book covers, a toy lizard, a dryer and other cases/holders, with "Mountains in Minutes," a latex rubber mold compound found in hobby stores
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Shire/6883/photos.html

(see more tools which could be used for texturing in Sculpting/Body. . . look in the sub-categories Hair, Fur, and Scales/dragonskin, etc.)

Cylindrical texturing tools + Rolling to make texture
.....(tools or texture sheets)....

rollers

see more ideas and links for these in Stamping > Stamp Rollers

You can purchase texture rollers in kitchen or baking supply places, or even with some kids' toys.
Or you can make your own, in a number of ways.

The textures can be made on a flat sheet (of clay or other material), which is later wrapped around a dowel, or a log of baked clay, etc.
... or they can be created while on the roller itself (on a base sheet pre-baked on the roller, or just on the roller if PVC pipe, etc.)

The texture itself can be created by adding onlays (clay or other things), impressing with stamps or textures or tools, or carving after the clay is baked.

Any thin, flexible texture sheet (see possibilities above) can be turned into rolling molds... for example:
...I adhere a baked flexible clay (texture sheet) to PVC pipe with PVC cement
......I leave a small 1/8th gap (between the almost-butted ends) which I fill with raw flex (clay), then I manually texture that gap area to complete the design... then bake. Katherine Dewey
OTHER MATERIALS
....
Another thing that would work well is to use part of a rubber sheet of stamps/textures you have made by Ready Stamps (see Stamping)... up to 9x7'. Just wrap the proper length of it around your brayer.
..or use individual rubber stamps removed from their mountings or freestanding
..might be able to use a
2-part silicone molding material as a "texture sheet"
......by covering a dowel or log of clay with a thin layer, then impressing it with texture... let cure 15-20 minutes, then use as roller (stiff enough for texturing raw clay?... could work well for ink/paint and paper though)
.....or making as a freestanding texture sheet first, then cutting and applying to clay log or dowel
....silicone caulk, or permanent white glue, or drizzled thick liquid clay, or liquid clay "decals" with dimensional embedded items, etc., might work same way?
.... even a sheet of rough sandpaper or textured wallpaper, etc., could be wrapped around (good idea to leave gap at butted ends then filling with clay and texturing by hand to avoid any "breaks" in the pattern , as Katherine suggests above

 
You can also apply a sheet of raw flexible clay to PVC pipe using Diluent-softener (or liquid clay?), then create (your texture) directly on the roller, but I like working on a flat sheet better. Katherine Dewey

"handles" for rollers:
..One of the texture swap participants made an awesome brayer-type thing:
....she covered a PVC pipe (about 1/2" diameter) with clay...then (impressed) the texture, and baked.
....she then placed a length of dowel inside the pvc pipe to use as the roller. It works great!  Jan
...that was me... I cut up some pvc pipe, then sanded and cleaned the outside (with alcohol?)
.....I then coated the pipe with liquid clay, letting it sit for several hours
.....then I wiped off the excess liquid clay (so the clay wouldn't slide around) and wrapped the pipe with a base sheet of scrap clay
.....(I left an area of pipe uncovered on each end to hold onto)
.....then I rolled the clay-covered pipe slowly and firmly over my texture
.....I suspended the pipe on a rod to bake.  Bonnie
..could also use a clay log with a hole through it... make hole just a bit wider in diameter than roller "handle" you want to insert so will move freely but evenly
....could also use thread spools (with thicker clay)... wood spools, or some plastic ones may be okay
..all kinds of rods could be used as handles:
....metal rods or knitting needles, wood dowels or skewers, large or small pencils or markers, etc
......may want the handle, or what it's rotating inside of, to have more grab or less grab for best performance (experiment)

adding machine tape rolls have plastic cores already have a small-ish hole running down their centers (surrounded by honeycomb of plastic)
....these may be okay at polymer baking temps and times
....could sand, and/or apply a coat of permanent white glue then let dry, for a bit of "tooth"
... then directly glue onto the plastic little shapes of craft foam or thin sponge, or squiggles of stiff string, etc
... let dry
....could use on raw clay
....or could instead roll onto paint or ink then use on paper to create gift wrap paper or stationery, etc)
(if the plastic doesn't slump too much at 265-275 F for 15 min, could put an alum.foil covered dowel or something inside the hole to keep it perfectly round if necessary?)

silastones' microbeads texture tool... various sizes of microbeads glued to a round dowel
... can use for regular texturing or as a texture roller
http://bp2.blogger.com/_a0vkge_xYko/RZMs5HBZHgI/AAAAAAAAADw/IclSSwPrzZU/s1600-h/dotsbeads+002.jpg

Can also carve into baked clay (on roller or before) with U or V carving tools with lines, etc. to create patterns (see Carving)

Celie’s handle for rolling texture made from roll-printed fine silver
http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_earlywork.htm#

possible drawbacks to texture rollers:
--it's a little difficult to make the impressions all an even depth as you roll across the clay (resistance)
....you can always try setting up rails on two sides of the clay to roll the ends of your roller across if they are bare or the roller has handles ...good idea!
....or perhaps just dusting the clay with cornstarch before rolling over would help
--some patterns on purchased texture rollers tend to be fairly large for working with most polymer items

Fiskars sells some patterned brayers for ink pads (mesh, "streamers," spreckle, holly leaves, stars, snowflakes, etc):
http://crafts.fiskars.com/projects/product.html?cat=brayers
... I had seen some at Joanns, etc.

(see more ideas and links for these rolling texture sheets in Stamping > Stamp Rollers)

beads ... texture sheets to roll over

baked textured clay sheets can be rolled over with raw clay beads (if tube beads, use large-diameter skewer)
http://www.mhpcg.org/clayDays/claydays04/july2004/jul023Lg.jpg
http://www.mhpcg.org/clayDays/claydays04/july2004/jul2004.html (beads made this way)

misc.

sunni's highly textured beads from Grant Diffendaffer class
http://sunnisan.com/crafts/01/unsandedtxtrbds001b.jpg

You can get replacement metal bike spokes at bike shops for less than a dollar. ....They are great for rolling polymer beads over a texture --they don't bend or crack like wooden skewers. Sarajane

TEXTURE. "SHEETS"
( also called "rubbing plates" or "texture plates" )

(for a collage of many textures on one sheet, see below in "Misc.")
(for making your own texture sheets, see below)
(for Texture Sheet mokume gane, see Mokume Gane > Texture Sheet Gane)
(for Texture Sheet mica shift, see Mica > Ghost Image)

Purchased texture sheets

Purchased "texture sheets" are sheets of plastic, rubber (rubberstamp), silicone, heavy paper, etc., with different overall textures molded into them. The plastic ones usually come 6 or more in a package; some packages are available at art supply stores but there seem to be many more online.
The sheets may come in several sizes, but can be cut in half or other proportions or even shapes if you want.
They will go right thru the pasta machine with the clay..

...or you can use them to texture smaller sheets or bits of clay which will be used as component parts for other things (onlay,etc.)
...or texture larger sheets, then cut shapes from that sheet

(for the plastic texture sheets) ....make sure you check on the size of the sheet you're actually getting... before you assume a better deal. Some places sell them in half or quarter sheets. If you can get the full 8 1/2 x 11 sheet for just a little more, it's a way better deal. You'll have to cut them down to fit in the pasta machine... but they do wear out (if you use them a lot) & you'll have replacements if you get the full sheet (or you can share with a friend) . Joanie
....
I get mine from The Clay Factory.  Marie introduced them to us a little over a month ago and we have all gone nuts using them.  They are a lightweight plastic and the impressions don't look all that deep.  But I put them through the pasta machine with the clay and it's remarkable how much they show up. Dotty

(you really get twice the number of patterns that you think because) you can use the back of your sheet for the negative (not with rubber).

(If you don't have a pasta machine, or if your texture plate is too large for the pasta machine and you don't want to cut it down)... you can achieve the same effect by placing your clay on paper (deli tissue wrap is cheap), place the plate on your clay and use a roller to apply pressure to the back of your texture plate. Press firmly. Patty B.

types (& sources)

plastic

---Clay Factory of Escondido (single Shade Tex --by Scratch Art-- rubbing plates sheets, any 6 sheets, or whole set of 24--size?)
http://www.clayfactory.net/images/texture/texture.html
---PolymerClayExpress (pre-selected sets of six, 8 1/2x11--all Shade Tex?); they also carry texture cubes (stamps)
http://polymerclayexpress.com/tools3.html (click on photo)
---Shade Tex's website (whole sheets, set of 6: regular textures, nature, architectural, textile/fabric, etc.?)
http://www.polymerclayshoppe.com/shadetex.htm
---Scratch Art's fish, owl, peacock, clown and fish, elephant, parrots,lake scene
http://www.scratchart.com/more.html
---Many rubbing plates available at Grandma T's (Roylco ?)
http://www.grandmats.com/rplates.htm#optical (click on each for more detail)
fabric, fossil, texture, optical illusions, Christian/inspirational, fancy, North American animals, human & animal skeletons, tracks of animals
---Rubbing plates at Nasco http://www.enasco.com ...then click on:
Arts&Crafts>Drawing&Drafting>DecorativeCrafts>RubbingPlates:
skeleton (animal & human), bugs,fossils, fancythings/snowflake
/etc, textures (Fancy Things plates)
Arts&Crafts>Drawing&Drafting>RubbingPlates:
design,architecture,nature,textile,optical illusion/
geometric (Shade Tex plates)
Arts&Crafts>Drawing&Drafting>RubbingPlates:
famous paintings
http://www.grandmats.com/royrubbingplates.htm
(same subjects --diff. drawings on some? ... but also mazes, cursive and regular alphabets, animal skins, American and Canadian money, farm scenes, U.S. geography,
Scratch Art's website of rubbing plates, including Nature Two, and a Cultural Pattern sheet with African, Asian, Celtic, Egyptian, Latin American, Islamic patterns
http://www.scratchart.com/sui/scratch/smcat.cgi/scratchart2/Shade-Tex_Rubbing_Plates
..Roylco (animal prints, dinosaurs, bugs).
http://www.realcooltoys.com/fosandantrac.html . . what is Acvico manufacturer?
Another source for all the plastic texture sheets is: http://www.saxarts.com Patty
There are also 2 new sets of the sheets out that are more image laden than the original geometric sheets. Syndee

Michaels has some neat texture sheets called Makin's meant for air dry clays which works great with polymer (their air dry clay is called Makin's Clay, they also make molds, small cutters...their products tend to be in lime green packaging. http://www.provocraft.com/products/index.php?s=info&l=Makin's.molds .Jean S.

I picked up some of the Gallery Glass molds which are thin clear plastic sheets sort of like the texture sheets that we have been using (but "beveled" on the edges). There are not a lot of the molds, but some that are very interesting and I can see lots of possibilities. They are a little thicker than the texture sheets we have been using...and come on a sheet which is too thick on the outside edges to put in your pasta machine...so you have to cut off the edges and cut (out?) the designs out to use them. . . . I ran clay through the pasta machine on about a medium setting with the plastic mold. To be sure I did not crush the mold, I put it through without turning the crank ...It is about the thickness of a dime at the thickest part so you can get it really thin--probably thinner if not using a pasta motor and taking your time. . . .You can flip it over and press into any of the symmetrical designs and get relief lines on both sides, so I thought this would make great fairie wings! I think they will be very durable. . . .I did some mica shift and they are superb! Probably because the lines are so defined in these molds.. . .http://www.heartofclay.com/eb/gg.jpg (this shows my molded wing of translucent clay with powders after using one of these texture sheet molds: http://www.heartofclay.com/eb/gg4.jpg ) Jeanne R.
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/DisplayCraftCategory?cgnbr=CRAFTS-17&pageNumber=2

rubber or heavy paper (texture sheets)
purchase, or have them made

most unmounted of rubberstamp sheets are thin and flexible enough to roll through the largest setting on your pasta machine with a sheet of clay. ...many of the companies that advertise in rubber stamp magazines offer "unmounted" at about a quarter the cost of wood-mounted stamps.
... "background" stamps have a single pattern stretching about 4 by 5 inches (the size of a greeting card)
... the patterned "mats" sold in rubberstamp stores for use with heat-set foam tools come in a patchwork of many small designs in different coordinated styles (the individual designs are only about an inch wide)
...and of course you can have your own designs made into a 7" x 9" set of positive (unmounted rubber) and negative (hard plastic...one side usable) sheets by Ready Stamps; be sure to tell them you want it extra deep, to use with polymer clay. Dotty in CA

Helen Breil's tiny-texture texture sheets (handmade ...made from??)
http://shadesofclay.com/Articles/Information/HelenBreilDesignsTextureP.html

rubber texture sheets: Lisa Pavelka is offering 4x6" very detailed and extra deep texture sheets, sold by set or individually (1st set = Victorian Lace, Tumbling Leaves, Swinging Swirls, Directions... more sets to follow)
... they can be baked with the clay in place. Angela
http://www.heartinhandstudio.com/stamps.htm
(see also Stamping > Basic Techniques, for creating an upraised clay pattern on a flat sheet of contrasting clay, using a deep stamp sheet (or smaller stamp?)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_other/article/0,1789,HGTV_3239_2932966,00.html

Blockhead has and at least one texture sheet with backgrounds and border patterns on it (one background pattern is old-fashioned handwriting)... their rubber is deeply etched though they also show less deep ones from other vendors (marked) http://www.blockheadstamps.com/sheets.html

textured heavy papers and misc materials ...4x6" pieces, by Cre8it! ......Texture Pack http://www.dotcalmvillage.net/cre8it/polyglaze.html (bottom of the page). . .package of 20 ($12) . . .deeply cut; texture patterns different from the textures above (lessons to come?)
... I have used my paper texture sheets quite a bit without any kind of protective treatment, and they are none the worse for wear. The main enemy of the sheets would be moisture, but the clay is dry enough that it doesn't affect the paper. I've been very happy with mine, and they cost a lot less than the rubber ones. Lisa

wood, etc.

I love wooden printing blocks for mokume gane techniques for that reason. They are usually much more deeply cut, and often because they usually are cheapo things imported from India, they have some really cool ethnic paterns and designs. don't know if you have any of those around in the US at all. I can't see why you wouldn't though. Emma x

Making Your Own texture sheets
(aka sheet "molds")

.......see also above in "Tools" for many other ideas on how to create textures ...........

You can make your own texture sheets in various ways, and from various materials ... these are then pressed to clay, or run through the pasta machine with clay..
...these can be sheet-like, already textured materials (like sandpaper, or many other things) found around the house, etc... or bits from these could be used in other ways
...or single "tools" can be impressed repeatedly into a raw clay sheet (then sheet baked before using)
...or clay sheets you've created (then sheet baked before using)
(...or cut a shape from a sheet you've created with a texture or a stamp, bake, then use as a stamp
.....or press a small amount of clay onto the texture, then use that as a stamp or as a clay item itself)

Ways to make texture sheets from clay
postives...relief bits:
.. add non-clay things (netting, string, nail heads, anything) on wood or clay or anything
...add clay squiggles/shapes to the surface of the raw or baked clay (...if baked, use Diluent or liquid clay to help bond)
negatives...depressions:
...make impressions into the raw clay sheet with stamps, tools, drawing (see below in Misc.for more on drawing)
...carve bits away from it after baking
(or combine one or more of these techniques)

Irene Dean's (fatbak) many tiles with textures
http://www.good-night-irene.com/index.html (click on Mirrors and Clocks and Wall Pieces, under Older Work)
*Cheryl's many textures, with powders mostly (website gone)
*kellie's frame with examples of textures???
Violette's textures on blade holder (one with carving on a texture) (website gone)

....much of the info on the Stamping page applies to making textures as well....

bumpy texture sheets (or rollers) for texture-sheet mokume gane or for ghost image mica
...a variety of different shapes could be created for the resulting "cells"
...for round cells, texture sheets could be created with baked balls of clay pressed onto a clay sheet (then baked)
...the balls could even be positioned evenly on the clay by placing a removable grid of some kind on top of the sheet first (like hardware cloth, plastic mesh, light fixture plastic grid covers, or even stretched threads) ... then each ball might be dipped in a pool of liquid clay, and centered in its own little square of the grid material (or just eyeball it) ... round balls make nice deep impressions for texture sheets too compared to a lot of the plastic texture sheets
... other shapes could also be rolled and baked for the texture sheet cell shapes...like teardrops, short rods, squiggles, etc.
....or clay gun extrusions could be baked and thickly sliced, then put onto the raw clay sheets --flat slices wouldn't have those nice rounded areas on the bottom that look good for mokume though. Diane B.

When I got Dottie's Snake Skin Tutorial from her a couple of years back, I used the plastic honeycomb texture sheet from Shadetex . Valerie
...I recently discovered the bottoms of children's running shoes.... one of those claying maniac moments :-) Adria
...while shopping at a local dollar store, I came across this neon pink plastic dog chew toy tube with all kinds of different shaped bumpies on it. Desiree

carved and/or impressed clay sheet plates (for printing on paper... or other clay, etc)
..
I made my own texture sheets with regular polymer clay to run through the pasta machine after finding that this worked really well! Meredith
..... (lesson) .....I usually make mine using a #4 thickness sheet... and bake it (or bake it first, then I carve it)
......to create the texture on raw clay, I lay an unbaked #4 sheet of clay on top and run them together through the pasta machine at #1 (don't forget mold release!) Irene NC

..Christine Aaron: She makes flat sheets of clay and textures them to make a printing plates (like etching plates or an engraving plates):
After baking them she carves lines into them (hence the word "intaglio") (and sometimes if she doesn't like what she has, she patches and rebakes them)
....Later, to make a print on paper, she rolls and daubs ink onto them, then lays dampened paper on them and rubs it down to get a print.
(but she wants an etching-type press, which has a flat bed that rolls between two rollers kind of like laundry going through the rollers in an old hand-cranked tub-type clothes washer ... lay a plate on the press bed (lay a sheet of paper on the plate), and then cover it with thick felt blankets and roll them through...the blankets push the paper into the grooves in the plate to get all the ink)

...I make a "relief sculpture plate" on clay (sheet?) - you can carve before and/or after the clay is cured (I do most of it before). ...after creating the plate, you cure (bake).... the plates are then inked and/or painted using etching inks, which are oils. ....a sheet of paper is put on the plates and they are put through an etching press together. The press pushes the paper into the crevices of the plate so it picks up and prints the ink on the paper. Viola. Barbara
...could use something else heavy and flat to press them together hard enough, or maybe press areas separately with something smaller?
(see also Carving ... and Transfers > Photosensitive > Polymer Plates
... is rubberstamp sheeting stiff enough to use as plate too or use ripped transfer sheets? --Transfers > Copier > Etched)

You can successfully draw designs or textures with this technique to get finished results, without overly sharp edges.
1. Use a non-crinkly clear plastic wrap...the thicker the plastic, the coarser the textures will be.
2. Place plastic between (clay) and tool. Note: If you are adding bumps put 'em on beforehand.
3. Keep plastic stationary and lift it off between each tool stroke.
4. After roughing in designs with thicker plastic, transfer down to thinner plastic for crisper detail, if you want....if you go back for a final tuneup, the only movement you want is one of direct pressing into the clay for these finest details. Sincerely, The Dane

a fun thing is to make your own "colograph plates" with bits and pieces of (non-clay) textured stuff glued together into a freestanding flat sheet using several coats of acrylic matte medium (or anything gluey?) ...let dry
... dust very lightly with talc.. open the rollers of the pasta machine to compensate for the thickness, and let it roll!

A surface-texture technique that really gives a nice just-dug-out-of-the-fossil-bed look:
gently pressing crumpled aluminum foil into the surface of un-fired clay, removing the foil, firing the poly-clay, giving the fired product a liberal "patina" of burnt umber, wet-sanding, and polishing with a dry muslin buffer.  Wow!
...For an even deeper impression the crumpled aluminum foil can be run through a pasta machine with a sheet of clay .Back off one setting before sending through, for example: roll a flat sheet of clay through on #4, set the rollers to #3 and roll through a sheet of crumpled foil and clay.
Kathy Amt has fashioned some wonderful leather simulations using this technique.

I have a texture stamp made by bunching turkey bag netting and running it through the pasta machine with the clay. From that I made another stamp so I  could backfill the impression with LS. It looks really cool! At one of my  workshops, one student went crazy over it. She said it looked like neurologic tissue. She was some sort of medical researcher, I think.   Jody B.

I've had some fabulous luck using good quality wallpaper samples to texture my clay......I'm not sure if it's vinyl or vinyl coated, or not...I have noticed that some of the thinner ones start leaving lint on the clay after too many uses ...for some projects this adds an interesting fabric-like element, but for others, you'll want to change your paper more often.
...I cut a strip narrow enough to fit into my pasta machine.... dampen the (vinyl?) paper, apply it to my clay, and run them thru together.
...This works amazingly well for making a fabric-like texture for art dolls and such. boo

sandpaper (40 grit with plastic coating works best)
....plastic lace (find it in the plastic tablecloth section of the fabric store)
....any and all fabrics without a lot of nap like tuile, gauze, polyester chiffon ......

The idea I came up with was to run a sheet of clay through the PM along with that corrugated liner that comes with light bulbs. Makes a nice texture and there is no need to sand. Vee
...I use the corrugated cardboard from the lightbulb boxes for mica shift..... I cut out all kinds of geometric designs, glue them on a postcard and run them through the pm. Works great (and when they get dirty or bent up, just throw them away). Linda

I've had good luck with leaves:
...you can roll several through the pasta machine on a sheet of clay to make an overall texture
... or you can space them farther apart and then cut them out
...you can then color them with powders or whatever...

What ELSE can you run through a pasta machine, sandwiched with the clay, to give a textured result? 
...fabric, lace, leaves, crumpled aluminum foil, string, what else?

I made some sheets of loopy, abstract lace by drizzling plain liquid clay onto paper ...then peeling it off after baking
.... before I peeled it, I made a also mold of its texture ... really cool in reverse (see more in drizzling liquid clay in Liquid Clay > Piping)

the aluminum foil of disposable cookie sheets can become texture sheets by embossing into it with a ball-ended tool (embossing stylus) ... first put the foil on top of a sheet of craft foam to provide a soft surface underneath... then draw your own textures or images
...to get a flexible liquid clay texture sheet from this, put a layer of liquid clay on the whole embossed sheet...bake at 300, 20 min.. cool... peel off ... this texture sheet won't be affected by the plasticizer in raw clay either... use in pasta machine with raw clay sheet or separately. Jody Bishel
...a piece of this baked liquid clay texture sheet can even be cut and "mounted" like a stamp (Goop/E-6000 to adhere to wood or plastic block, etc.)
...or it can be used to create an enameled or stained glass effect
by putting various tinted liquid clays on the embossed foil, but wiping them off the topmost areas leaving only in depressions, then baking (...the aluminum foil will then act as raised "leading" for the cells, and also reflect up through the liquid clay to create a brighter effect)
.......liquid clay settles or smoothes somewhat when left to rest a bit too... I've used this technique on my kaleidoscopes with nice results. Dotty

collage of textures: I know that lots of folks like to have big sheets of texture to work with but it never worked for me either. I can't seem to splice the edges right.
....What I do is use lots of smaller stamps to get one textured sheet which is a collage of stampings.
....One of my favorite tools is a texture finger cup. You can make them yourself by molding a ball of scrap clay over your finger or as I do over the end of a rounded dowel. ...My favorite finger cup was made by scoring thin lines raiating out from the center of the cup. Depending how it is pressed into the clay, it can look like pine needles, fireworks, grass or even coral (on a large scale).
......My other homemade stamps are usually about an inch or an inch and a half.
..... I have some textures as sheets but usually end up making smaller stamps from those. Jody
...also molds can be mostly filled so that the molded items or textures can be removed and placed onto collage sheets to create raised areas

I call this method Reverse Relief because that's how I use it:  to create bas relief designs. 
There are many examples on my website http://elvenwork.com:  the brocade dress on the fairy titled Lysse, the Fairy's lace dress in A Walk in the Woods, and the mouse and the moon reliefs in the Wedgwood styled egg Mouse in the Moon.  All of these raised relief patterns were made by creating the molds first, by working in reverse.
Lesson:
--Begin by baking a thin (#6) sheet of SuperFlex, or use TLS spread equally thin on a sheet of glass and bake. 
--Rub the baked sheet with diluent and apply a second sheet of flex (I usually use the #5 setting).
--Now, set to work with a ball stylus and engrave your design.  The baked sheet will help your mold stay together and the uniform thickness of the adhered unbaked sheet will control the depth of the mold.  If you wish to work from a specific pattern (such as the moon) use any of several transfer techniques to imprint the pattern onto the raw clay.
--Once these molds are baked, any residue copy toner or ball point pen ink (a favorite of mine) won't transfer as the molds are being used because you're using a relief agent and working so quickly.
.....
Katherine Dewey's illustrated handout is called Flexible Sheet Molds (creating texture and pattern sheets,$3.50) "Katherine teaches how she creates texture molds out of thin sheets of flexible clay. Firm, yet flexible, these molds are thin enough to use the pasta machine as a mold press."
http://elvenwork.com/workbook.html

(see more in Molds/Making Molds for making a stamp to use in repeating patterns, such as for a brick wall)
(see Rollers above for using these for making texture rollers)

I work with Sculpey's SuperFlex (Bake and Bend) polymer clay all the time. Yes, it's tacky and somewhat greasy, but it's a problem solver. I use it ...for flexible sheet molds that can be run through the pasta machine with a sheet of clay. . . Katherine Dewey
...
...I use Bake & Bend for thinner molds in sheets which use low-relief textures and items. I recommend it for my leaf molds. ...It is extremely durable and flexible . . It can be used for thicker pieces also, such as molding a button or such, but it will not be as flexible in the thicker pieces as MoldMaker is. Patti K.
... or use for any nature objects such as twigs, seedpods, etc.

....lesson: make a sheet of B& Bend which is just over 1/2 the thickness of your thickest pasta machine setting (on my atlas, at #4)
.......... fold a med. thick sheet in half and roll through on the widest setting. It should elongate just a little, about 10 %. If it doesn't elongate at all, your medium is too thin in proportion to your widest setting. If it grows by a lot, then your medium setting is too thick. Adjust accordingly.
.......roll the impression material-- a leaf, wallpaper, fabric, whatever, onto the sheet of B&B (with appropriate mold release).... Bake
.......then, you can use your mold with a fresh sheet of clay (any brand) .... use mold release.... Now you have a positive image of a leaf or whatever.
(The rest of my articles show how to use your leaf in designing pieces with different effects... enamel, fossil wood look, black pearl-exed, etc.) Patti K.
(...see more on this clay in Characteristics........ should be baked at 285 )

other materials ...(for making texture sheets)

(two-part) ... silicone mold material can be used to make texture plates or complicated molds with a great deal of detail
...or make a negative or positive of other texture sheets ...or create new sheets from scratch?
Brush On Alley Goop ...http://www.clayalley.com/brushon.htm
Karen's thinner version of her regular Alley Goop (2-pt. mold material) especially for making texture sheets
.....apply on item to be molded with inexpensive brushes or a spatula
.....use a can of compressed air or an air compressor set at 5 psi to force the Brush On Alley Goop into those really tight areas (optional?)
.....let cure.....repeat..... then finish with a layer of regular Alley Goop
......(so 2 layers of Brush On, followed by one layer of regular Alley Goop to strengthen?)
.....this materials is more durable than latex rubber (see below)
... and lot faster to use than latex (15 min working time.. a 15 min gel time..and 1 hr cure time)... multiplied by 3 layers though.
......latex rubber usually takes one day to cure each layer??
... it's the same cost as the regular AlleyGoop....don't know if she'd mix and match with regular AG for the discount though.
lesson on making a 3-D mold with several coats of silicone rubber over a rock (then later filling with a shell of plaster)
http://www.hirstarts.com/tips7/tips7.html

(one part) ... liquid latex rubber (the rubber latex stuff model RR people use, from hobby stores) ... I made a flat latex texture sheet by painting it on
latex rubber is a water-based, milky, rubber liquid which is completely waterproof when dry
Those with latex allergies shouldn't use this material.
...may not give quite as detailed an impression as 2-pt silicone materials?... still should be fine though
...I think this material is great & reasonably priced too... remains flexible.

........I ran it through the pasta machine with the clay.... it didn't stick to the clay at all! ...no release agent used.
......the main drawback is the time required to make a texture sheet - you must do at least 3 layers and dry between... so that takes about 3 days!! ...but when you're doing them for yourself, it's not so bad. Kathy
.Latex Rubber is one made by the company Woodland Scenics
Mountains in Minutes is a latex rubber mold compound found in hobby stores
....
Plankspanker’s wrinkly skins for creatures...his texture plates are made from guitar cases, amiplifiers, book covers, a toy lizard, a dryer and other cases/holders
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Shire/6883/photos.html

Mold Builder (by Environmental Tech) can be bought at Michael's for about $10 (one pint?)
..."can brush on (items) made of metal, clay, ceramic, plaster, wood, or Plasticene clay to form flat, "blanket" molds (or one-piece "peel-off" glove molds for 3-D objects).
....one thick layer for blanket molds, or can use several thin layers?
...."use only dry, warm air for drying and curing
....clean up Mold Builder with cold soapy water only because warm water which will cause the Mold Builder to set up immediately
....may want to remove the lid and allow the accumulated ammonia to dissipate a few minutes prior to using Mold Builder.
....do not use petroleum-based mold release agents (Vaseline, mineral oil) because they will react with the latex mold and destroy it."
.......if needs a release to keep it from sticking to itself, can use talc (or cornstarch?), but no release needed for clay
... "can also be used for casting candle wax, plaster, and casting resins" (though one person says not recommended for plastic resins or casting waxes???)
lessons on using (for a 3-D object and flat object) :http://www.artmolds.com/product_details.cfm?product_id=177&page=0&cat_name=Latex%20Rubber
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=62
....don't do the coats too thick (only if using a 3-D object though? ... because each coat must dry thoroughly before a new coat is added)
....one really sweet texture sheet was made by Kathy Davis using Mold Builder... (her texture sheet is so flexible it can be folded in half without breaking or cracking) ......she made a "dragon skin" texture... from 3 layers of the Mold Builder. Dianne C.
... to use for ghost image mica technique, etc, just paint a few coats onto your stamp. Anna
liquid latex rubber can also be used for making 3-D "glove" molds. Just brush several thin coats on object you wish to duplicate. Peel off a ready-to-use mold. (Mold Builder can be used for casting candle wax, plaster and casting resin.)
...
."making a 3-D mold with latex rubber is time consuming and tedious.
.....the molds are not very heat-resistant or solvent resistant
, and as such latex is not well suited for casting waxes or plastics but can be made to work with these media on a limited basis" (quickly??) . . .( best used when casting gypsum and portland cements).
http://home.attbi.com/~rsquared1/clinics_rocks.htm
Graphi's site for molding with latex rubber (as well as silicone-based rubber and many other molding materials) etc.
http://www.mouldmaking.freeserve.co.uk/indexlinks.html

small lesson.. but he thinks using latex rubber takes too long and also creates problems for holding the stuff upright (for 3-D?)
http://www.hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html#spike
fun website for that sort of thing and making latex rubber masks over an "oil-based clay" model... http://www.monstermakers.com
http://www.monstermakers.com/howto.html

foams ... temporary stamps or texture sheets can be made by heating and impressing foam materials like Magic Stamp. The material can be used repeatedly with reheating (or used just once for a permanent impression, if desired)
......(see many more types of foam and details rethis in Stamping > Other Ways).

acrylic paint + cardstock or other paper (making the paint dimensional after drying)
.....mirror image
texture plate lesson: ..... these are perfect for making mirror image earrings, etc.
1. bottle of 3D acrylic paint, or (regular) smooth texture paint
2. cardstock (I used index cards cut in half)
...pre-crease your card stock so that you'll have two identical halves.... spread the 3D paint over the entire surface of the card stock and let it sit for a moment to allow some of the moisture to evaporate; otherwise you'll get a flatter texture
....fold card in half so that the painted halves seal together. ...slowly peel up little by little and you'll get peaks and valleys in a mirror image . . . lay aside to dry thoroughly, and do another one.
... (some options: play with the time you allow to 'dry' before pressing down... try manipulating the sealed cardstock with your fingers... try peeling quickly for some funky swirls.) ..Kathy Rue's technique, via Carolyn
..similar to the faux vinyl technique which uses -thinned acrylic paint and freezer paper ...and she covers only half the surface at first
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_paper_crafts_boxes/article/0,,hgtv_3289_1376364,00.html
........for more details on this, and also on using white tacky glue colored with a bit of acrylic paint, see Paints > Acrylic > Misc.

hot glue could be used to drizzle or draw on cardstock or other backing
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_accessories_jewelry/article/0,,HGTV_3225_3198817,00.html (this is for a necklace, but if you didn't use the cooking oil spray release they used --on plexiglas-- the glue would stick to the backing...or the shape could be used freestanding).... (they also painted their drizzled glue shape with fabric paints)

single items, string, or other materials glued to a wood or other backing... you can glue single items (like artificial fern leaves, screws, doodles or outlines of string, or just about anything) to a block or sheet of wood to use as a texturing sheet
...if the items are not too thick, you can also glue them to something thinner which could allow them to go through the pasta machine (without harming it!!), or just use without the pasta machine (sheets of cardstock, cardboard, plastic, even glass if using cement-type glue, or acrylic, etc.)

Gwen Gibson's video ...Cuff Bracelets & Surface Treatments (by Gameplan Videos)
http://gwengibson.com . . . step-by-step constructions and surface techniques...
how to use texture plates in a new way as well as how to make your own from copper and silk screens.

"polymer plates" (solar plates) with a special light-sensitive material on a backing
...make them yourself, or you can even have one company create your polymer plate from graphics you send in to them --like ReadyStamps does with rubberstamp sheets
...for all on the polymer solar plates, see Transfers > Photosensitive Materials > Polymer Plates.

Releases

. . .You have to remember to use water, Armorall, or corn starch/talc, on them when you put them through the pasta machine because otherwise the clay will stick in the tiny recesses and it's darn hard to get it out.  Dotty
... I've found that using just water instead of powder or Armorall works the best. It doesn't build up on the surface of the plastic so your plates last a lot longer. The other release mediums tend to build up in the crevasse over time while the water doesn't. You can use water as long as you aren't using Fimo or Kato clays (for them use powder as a release)...they don't much like the water. Polyform clays however (Premo & Sculpey) work fine with water. Dotty

Dotty showed me a little spray bottle from Michaels that works great to spray a fine mist of water on the Scratch Art textures to act as mold release.  It works wonderfully.  Syndee

metallic powders (Fimo or micas --earl-Ex, etc.) can also be used as releases (if placed on the clay)...these will completely color the surface of the object or sheet impressed.
...if you rub mica powders on the texture sheet before running it through your pasta machine, it will not only act as a release but also apply color into the crevices of the pattern. . . . . Then you can also highlight the raised surface with an entirely different color powder. Patty B.

Wait until you see what you can do with metallic clays with those texture sheets...I used Premo's gold and silver (lesson).
--Ran the clay through the same way a number of times to get the mica to lay all in the same direction.
--Then ran the clay through on the same setting along with a texture sheet - I used one of the finer textures to see if it would work- using Armor-All for the release agent.
--Then peeled the the texture sheet off and ran the clay through again at the next smaller setting.
--Then ran it again but on the next smallest setting from last time.
--You will get a flat surface but, have optical illusion texture happening because of the displace mica particles. Very subtle, but, very cool. . .
. . . . If you want it less subtle, run the clay through with the texture sheet, but instead of the same setting as you ran the clay through by itself, move down smaller by two settings. This increases the texture pattern on the clay because the clay stretches over the texture sheet (hold the clay onto the texture sheet when it first comes out of the pasta machine or it will move off the sheet and not work). Meredith

(see more on releases and release techniques in Molds > Releases)

USING

USES for texturing:
... to add visual interest, especially in areas of solid color (possibly also with antiquing or highlighting)
....... even very light texturing can also hide imperfections and give interest.  Irene NC
....to use as backgrounds
....to hide fingerprints or other imperfections
....I textured (my connected cane slices) with a piece of sheer chiffon... gives the little quilt a "fabric" look and camouflages fingerprints, too. :-) Elizabeth

Antiquing & Highlighting

As with molded, stamped or textured pieces (or anything with crevices) can be colored on just it's higher areas or just in its lower ones. This results in a a two-tone effect which gives much more definition of the pattern, more dimensionality, and often more interest-oomph and complexity.

Antiquing refers to coloring in the lower areas, whereas highlighting refers to coloring the topmost areas, or both areas could be colored (complete coverage).
...can use paints... inks... liquid clays tinted with oil paints, alcohol inks or inclusions... liquid chalks... metallic powders and waxes, etc.
..... sometimes done on raw clay or baked clay, in various ways.
....(much more on these subjects is in Stamping > Basic Techniques, and also Filling
and also in
Molds
> Antiquing ...Paints > Antiquing & Patinas ...Powders for using metallic powders, waxes, etc....Carving > Backfill)

Here are just a few:

acrylic paints in tubes are often used for antiquing
... a dark (dirt) color like Burnt Umber is rubbed over the whole piece, left to sit a bit, then rubbed with a paper towel, etc., to remove just the top areas of paint. The remainder of the paint will stay in the crevices simulating age (and be permanent when it's dried completely).
..... Sometimes a white or light color paint is used instead, particularly on dark clay colors.
......Donna Kato makes a faux brocade look (" Brokato ") by impressing raw clay with texture sheets or stampings, then antiquing-backfilling the impressions with gold acrylic paint by wiping the raw clay pattern until the highlights are mostly removed
.........or first completely covering the texture thickly with gold paint and drying, then applying a (different) color of acrylic paint to top surfaces (tapping on with finger) and drying... can then also roll over gently to flatten the texture and to spread out the pattern (hand rolling may be gentler than pasta machining to avoid actual crackling)

textile paints which are heat set are great for rubbing into the baked clay. They are fully saturated colors, some with shimmer, some opaque, some with glitter. Since they don't dry until heat set, they are much easier to remove with a paper towel than regular acrylic paints.. . . I either place them back in a warm oven (200) for a couple of minutes or heat with a heat gun to set the paint. Then you can sand, polish or add your preferred finish. Patty B.

Jainnie has done some breathtaking beads by using her own texture plates with black clay....then giving several allover coats of the pearescent inks....allowing to dry and then sanding back the top so the black shows through again with the most stunning colours left in the groove of her own texture stamped clay.....too cool!
....You could use rub'n'buff or just about anything I guess. tantaz

...faux ivory might be cool this way... would it look carved?

metallic powders are very often used to highlight (or completely cover) textured or stamped areas
http://www.polyclay.com/buttons.htm ..... http://polyclay.com/impressed.htm
Kathy W's examples of textured black clay highlighted with various colors of metallic powder
http://www.kathyweinberg.com/eggs.html
(see Powders for much more)
Metallic powders can also be made into paints for highlighting or painting
.....Pearl-Ex or Powdered Pearls powders can be used to color liquid clay ...some of them are just beautiful used that way...(you could also use embossing powders)
....I used purple clay, impressed and baked it. Then I mixed some red/blue duo (interference) mica powder into the liquid clay and went over the baked piece completely with it. It turned out beautiful! Much better than I had thought it would.
......Over the raised areas of the piece it appears as a metallic purplish-blue, and in the recessed areas it was deep semi-transparent blue.   Dotty

Donna Kato used various colors of fluid chalk pads to highlight some textured surfaces (around transfers, etc.)
...this gave a beautiful "carved" look to the textured sheet
....fluid chalks are semi-transparent and matte unless gloss finish added ...also come as markers
.......effect was subtle on lighter colors of clay, but darkened and popped when gloss finish added
(see more on these in Letters-Inks > Fluid Chalks)

Flattening antiqued and/or highlighted textured sheets

A friend of mine had an idea with using (fluid?) chalks (or chalk stamp pads?) on a stamp to make the clay impression
....you can then rub over the raised area that's left with yet another color chalk, or with iridescent
(metallic) powder.
....brayer this with a roller (or run it through the pasta machine) to flatten .... I'm still playing with this idea. Geo
(see more on fluid chalks in Letters-Inks > Fluid Chalks)

Kris's lesson on impressing a clay sheet with a stamp
... then applying Lumiere paints (heat-cured metallic-colored acrylics) to the upraised areas, & somewhat to the lower areas, just here and there (let dry thoroughly)
... she then flattens with a hand roller (design is somewhat less distinct, but still present)
...since the textured sheet isn't covered completely with the paints, the final result has the background color being the clay color, with areas of metallic pattern wherever the paints were applied to the texture
http://sculpey.com/Projects/projects_impressedpen.htm

faux brocade (....color options:)
Donna Kato creates several brocade looks (" Brokato") in this lesson:
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,,HGTV_3238_3851743,00.html
..In each case, she begins by texturing a sheet of clay with a (wood-backed) texture stamp (or could any texture sheet or stamps)
.......then she uses tube acrylic paints at various stages... (and often flattens the texture afteward):

1...(2 colors --paint color + clay color) ---steps 10 -13.25... "antique-backfill" the textured sheet by covering with with gold acrylic paint, then wiping off the top of the raw textured clay until the paint is mostly removed from the upper areas (remains in the depressions)... allow to dry (the upper areas of pattern will be the color of the clay, and the lower areas the color of the paint chosen --gold, etc.)
2...(2 colors ...paint color + 2nd paint color)... completely cover the textured sheet thickly with gold paint, and dry.... then "highlight" the upper areas only by applying a different color paint (tapping paint on clay with finger), and drying (steps 1-6)
.........in Fig. E she uses a leaf stamp (which makes an impression with only a few thin impressed lines)... then covers the texture sheet with gold paint and then highlights the upper surfaces here and there by dabbing on 2 other colors of paint (red and green)

THEN FLATTEN any of those textured sheets (which have been colored in various ways) (step 7)
....roll over the painted textured sheet gently with a brayer or other roller
(can spray lightly with water as release to keep the roller from sticking if necessary)
......or pass through a pasta machine twice (in opposite direction) choosing a narrower setting for the 2nd pass
...
the pattern will spread out a bit too

MORE Info & Ideas... leaves, etc.

To make a print with your texture using paint (or pigment ink, etc.)
...place a sheet of paper over the texture, then brayer or rub over the paper... just like doing a woodblock print.

To stamp with metallic powders (repeatedly for a "texture"):
...pour a tiny bit of powder out onto a opened-up, folded piece of copy paper.
...press the selected tool (or stamp) into a piece of scrap clay to pick up a bit of oil
...then press the tool into the metallic powder
...shake off the excess...... then press into the clay.
......repeat as many times as desired.
....using the fold in the paper to act as a funnel, pour the extra back into the jar.

One way of making animal skins is using plastic texture sheets with a mokume gane technique:
.... stack two or three thin colors of clay and run them through the pasta machine with a texture sheet, then shave off the high points from the top layer
... I use the cobblestone texture sheet for giraffe skin, and other sheets work well for zebra, tiger and leopard.
...experiment with putting the right color clay on the top, and with which side of the palstic sheet to use. Jeanne R.
(for caned animal skins, see Canes--instr.& types > Animal Skins)

"filigree" onlays can be created by shaving off the upper projections from stamped or textured or molded clay
...
Sarajane's lesson on creating gold clay for this, then placing on top of colored clay (barrettes & eggs)
http://polyclay.com/onlaid.htm and http://polyclay.com/eggs.htm

(see lesson in Stamping > Shaved Projections)
...Jeanne R's lesson on making fabric by laying shavings from mica clay ghost impressions onto a base sheet, or shavings from two layers of clay (here she's using tiny squares from running plastic canvas through the pasta machine with clay)...see more on this technique in Mica > Ghost Impression
http://www.heartofclay.com/pc/fauxfabrics.htm
...could use all kinds of shaving shapes too

I used Premo gold and a mixture of a lot Fimo pearl and a little fimo blue (for my layers)... Kerstin
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291865009&p=4252825725&idx=19

Sculpey Flex (now called Bake and Bend) clay has a lot of applications and the best of these is the thin, flexible sheet mold (or texture sheets) that uses the pasta machine as a mold press. Katherine Dewey

Cut-out shapes from a textured sheet (or antiqued-highlighted-covered sheet) with cutters, or a blade, etc.

Valerie Aharoni's strips of texture sheet forming an interesting frame around a sheet-of-pattern (on AOL CD tin?) which was surrounded by a textured base sheet as well ...she used 6 long thin strips, each 1/2" or so wide...placed 2 of them across the top of the frame area and two across the bottom (horizontally and a bit separated, reaching all the way across the tin)... the last two strips were vertical, placed a bit in from the edge of the tin, and butted against the inner two strips)
http://people.delphiforums.com/olrebbiepie1/tinswap_files/tinswapa.html

several color sheets cut and fitted together, then impressed as a whole with a texture sheet
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/claypen_masks.html (click on Jackie)
*Anna's fabulous crazy patch (quilting style) of textures (surface techniques and cane sheets, on a box, sort of like a collage (website gone)
purplepapillon's sheets composed of various shapes fitted together, each stamped-textured & covered with metallic powder separately
http://www.imagestation.com/2999060/4266957995 + http://www.imagestation.com/2999060/4266957984
(see more on this technique in Sheets > Puzzle Pieced)

raw clay surfaces can be drawn into with lines and curves, etc., with other tools as well
...a ball point pen, needle tool, non-sharp tapestry needle, ball ended stylus, etc.
...however, Wayne uses a piece of plastic wrap over (Saran, sandwich bag, freezer bag, etc.) his raw clay to "draw" lines of hair or other things onto his sculpts ...lift tool between each stroke... the thinner the plastic, the finer the details
.......the plastic keeps the lines clean

Another neat idea they suggested in the book "Handmade Prints" (see above), was to impress granulated sugar into the unbaked clay for texture, and then dissolve the sugar in warm water after the clay is baked. Dona
...salt would do the same thing, but the depressions would be larger (rock salt or kosher salt would be even more different)...DB
...exploded salt (Silk Salt) is used by the silk painters ...is really like pretzel salt - it's been puffed and air in it
http://www.dickblick.com/zz012/33/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=5425
.....you can roll the raw clay in the exploded salt and then soak it out. ...rub with PX and bake. It makes a really cool texture (of course, you can bake it in the clay and soak out afterwards, too.) syndee
...also "dishwasher salt"??
...baking soda ....the other bonus(?) i found with baking in a pile of baking soda was it seemed to give the clay an interesting slightly pebbled texture that I like. Helayne

I learned from Lindly Haunani this summer about first making a color wheel, then choosing colors from it and making many individual 'swatches' of clay to be combined into a finished piece. It was a fantastic, eye-opening experience! Anna

leaves

Fresh leaves or fake leaves can be used to make leaf impressions in clay, or they can be used as stamps
...or they can be turned into stamps (positive and negative) and into shallow molds
Impressions or leaves made with clay can be embellished with metallic powders, and or made from marbled or Skinner blend sheets, or textured, etc.

To stamp with a leaf and metallic powder, brush metallic powder on one side of a leaf (fake or real leaf, or on another thickish item like a piece of cedar branch)... tamp
.....then press into a sheet of textured or plain clay; remove... bake

Place the back side of a leaf onto a sheet of clay to get the deepest impression (a plain sheet, marbled or Skinner blend sheet, or mica covered--whatever you want)
.......cover the leaf with waxed paper & roll over it well....remove waxed paper
...leave as is for just making an impression
...or to make into a clay leaf, cut around it (freehand, or with a template or stencil, or with a cutter)

You can roll several leaves through the pasta machine on a sheet of clay to make an overall texture
...... or you can space them farther apart and then cut them out ...you can then color them with powders or whatever

To make flexible and thin sheet molds that can be run through the pasta machine with a sheet of clay, I use Sculpey's SuperFlex (Bake and Bend) clay . Katherine Dewey
....(can use regular clays as thin sheet molds though, as long as they're not brittle after baking like Sculpey and perhaps FimoSoft, and they're fully baked)
....I use Bake & Bend for thinner molds in sheets which use low-relief textures and items. I recommend it for my leaf molds--it is extremely durable and flexible.
....lesson: make a sheet of B& Bend which is just over 1/2 the thickness of your thickest pasta machine setting (on my atlas, at #4)
........ (fold a med. thick sheet in half and roll through on the widest setting --it should elongate just a little, about 10 %...if it doesn't elongate at all, your medium is too thin in proportion to your widest setting... if it grows by a lot, then your medium setting is too thick. Adjust accordingly.)
......roll the impression material-- a leaf, wallpaper, fabric, whatever, onto the sheet of B&B clay (with appropriate mold release) .... bake
......you can use your mold with a fresh sheet of clay (any brand) with mold release...now you have a positive image of a leaf or whatever
(The rest of my articles show how to use your leaf in designing pieces with different effects... enamel, fossil wood look, black pearl-exed, etc.) Patti K.
...Kathy makes molds from leaves by coating a real leaf with (Art Silver Clay or Precious Metal Clay? paste), then uses them to make a mold after they are fired in a kiln .....or could cover with something else like plaster which doesn't need a kiln... or use a few layers of liquid clay??
...can also make sheet molds from silicone molding materials and other things (see Molds)
(see more on making texture sheets above in Making Texture Sheets)

Leigh’s lesson on real leaf used as stamp to impress clay sheet and create a leaf
...after the real leaf is pressed onto clay, it's cut around (slightly larger)... and leaf removed
... clay leaf is then completely covered with various colored metallic powders
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/poleigh/leaf.html


Barbara McGuire's lesson on using metallic powders sporadically on the a clay sheet before putting through the pasta machine with a texture sheet
....she then cut the sheet into leaf shapes with a template, and baked them on the curved side of an upturned glass bow
l... then used wire to make a connector and decorative dangling spiral... necklace or two freehanging (diff.sized) leaves for earrings http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399580,00.html

Can cover clay leaf shapes with metallic powders
.....or just highlight or color the impression only with metallic powders
.....or antique the impression-depression with paints (see Powders > Mica Powders > Stamping & Texturing, for more)

Maria's lesson on making a small clay leaf using a larger real leaf as a stamp
....she pressed an oval ball of (cold porcelain) clay --could use polymer instead-- onto just the central part of the back side of a heavily veined tough leaf
... she then cuts small bites from the sides of the leaf with a straw so they resemble oak leaves, or poinsettia leaves http://guide.supereva.it/hobby_femminili/interventi/2001/11/77634.shtml

various clay leaves used in jewelry, made from impressing-molding real leaves
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stokesgalleries/sets/72157603734300483

Mike B. used leaves as masks to create some beautiful effects
....after impressing a sheet of clay (usually a Skinner blend) with the back of a leaf, covering with waxed paper then rolling it onto the clay, he left the leaf in place while he textured the background area around the leaf with sandpaper, etc
........then he brushed metallic powder all over (leaf will resist the powder)
........lastly he carefully removed the leaf from the piece... and baked the piece
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/mikeb/LeafLessons.html (lesson)
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/mikeb/Leaves.html (examples)
(for more on this, see Powders > Mike B's Masked Leaves)

TIPS
...to flatten a freshly picked leaf (or floppy or thick ?) (for making a mold of a fern or other leaf), you can carefully lay the frond onto the sticky side of some wide, plastic packing tape, making sure all the tiny leaflets are lying flat ....then apply the mould material before the leaf can dry out. Alan Vernall
...fresh leaves which are no longer fresh and supple can be "reconstituted" with a soak in water, glycerin, or something else
.....I soaked some dried leaves in warm water for a couple of hours to "flex" them up a bit, and that worked great... kept them from crumbling when I rolled them onto the clay, and they were even tough enough to peel up off the clay without leaving little pieces ....... I also just got some glycerin and I'm going to try soaking the next batch of mini rose leaves in glycerin-water and keeping them in the fridge, to see if that works. Eliz.
....there's some sort of spritz you can buy in the same department (as preserved leaves) for reviving dried flowers and leaves that have become brittle
...can leaves be kept in the freezer to preseve till wanted? ...can leaves be ironed between waxed paper layers to preserve?
...real preserved leaves can be purchased in craft stores. Eliz.

white clay impressed with leaf stamps then antiqued with green paint over a is absolutely beautiful. syndee

more Websites

sunni's lesson (on making a base), showing a texture sheet going through the pasta machine with a sheet of powdered clay, then added to a thicker sheet, baked and embellished
http://sunnisan.com/crafts/stainglass4.html

Helen Breil's many textured pieces
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=6&uid=447834
syndee's textured, Pearl Ex-ed bracelets
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/bracelets.html
*Dotty McMillan's many uses of metallic powders with textures, stamping, etc. on the "clothing" of her kaleidoscope women
http://alookingglass.homestead.com/Three_box_lady_2_a.jpg
http://pcpolyzine.com/0301january/0301fantasyart3.html (click on each for larger view & more)
http://pcpolyzine.com/0301january/0301fantasyart2.html
Jane's double layer texture shapes, one with powder highlighting
http://www.nwpcg.org/photopages/may2000.shtml
caneguru's pins made with positive & neg. texture sheets, and also a hand-carved texture sheet pin (website gone)
Tommie's sort-of lesson on making a texture sheet for raku using a multiple stabs of a ball stylus & powders
http://www.polymerclayhaven.com/lessons/raku.htm (gone)

Patti's lesson on making a flat mold from a stamp, which can be run through the pasta machine with clay (she made a holiday gift tag with reversed lettering)
http://www.polymerclayhaven.com/lessons/gifttag.htm
(gone)
Marlene's shoe fabric created by using a texture sheet over background with rose (website gone)
Emily's bracelet of various texture sheet impressions with powders (website gone)

 

 


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